[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2020132860A1 - Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2020132860A1
WO2020132860A1 PCT/CN2018/123427 CN2018123427W WO2020132860A1 WO 2020132860 A1 WO2020132860 A1 WO 2020132860A1 CN 2018123427 W CN2018123427 W CN 2018123427W WO 2020132860 A1 WO2020132860 A1 WO 2020132860A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
composition
polysorbate
peg
sorbitan
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/CN2018/123427
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Ji SONG
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to PCT/CN2018/123427 priority Critical patent/WO2020132860A1/fr
Priority to JP2021533259A priority patent/JP7358474B2/ja
Priority to CN201880100507.0A priority patent/CN113226253A/zh
Publication of WO2020132860A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020132860A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
  • the conventional oil-in-water emulsions are not totally satisfying, in particular in terms of brightening or whitening of the skin.
  • compositions in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, with a brightening or whitening effect to keratin materials, and meanwhile maintaining a good sensation.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention is advantageous in several respects.
  • the composition according to the present invention has a brightening or whitening effect to keratin materials, in particular human skin.
  • the “brightening and whitening effect” according to the present invention refers to brightening or whitening effect on keratin materials, which is demonstrated by the bioavailability of skin brightening or whitening active ingredient at 16 hours after application of the composition of the present invention on the substrate.
  • composition of the present invention presents good sensation such as hydration, nourishment, softness and/or anti-dullness.
  • composition of the present invention has a viscosity of less than 50 UD (Deviation Units) , preferably from 17 UD to 35 UD, as measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm.
  • UD Deviation Units
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
  • keratin material is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails.
  • Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • AMPS polymer at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one skin brightening or whitening active ingredient selected from flavonoids.
  • Flavonoids are a specific group of polyphenols, and are the most plentiful group of polyphenol compounds, making up about two-thirds of the total phenols in consumed feed. Flavonoids are further categorized, according to chemical structure, into chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, and tannins. Over 4,000 flavonoids have been identified, many of which occur in fruits, vegetables and beverages (tea, coffee, beer, wine and fruit drinks) . The flavonoids have been reported to have antiviral, anti-allergic, antiplatelet, anti-inflammatory, antitumor and antioxidant activities. Flavonoids protect lipids and vital cell components from damaging oxidative stress by efficiently scavenging free radicals.
  • the flavonoid used is flavone.
  • Baicalin a component of Chinese medicinal herb Huang-chin, is a flavone, a type of flavonoid. It is a potent antioxidant that demonstrates potent effects against oxidative stress diseases, inflammation, allergy, cancer, bacterial infections, etc.
  • Baicalin is found in several species in the genus Scutellaria, including Scutellaria baicalensis and Scutellaria lateriflora. There are 10 mg/g baicalin in Scutellaria galericulata leaves. It is also present in the bark isolate of the Oroxylum indicum tree.
  • baicalin is used in the form of scutellaria baiclensis root extract.
  • the flavonoid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition further comprises at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative as skin brightening or whitening ingredient.
  • hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative that can be used in the composition of the present invention is preferably selected from those of formula (I) below:
  • R 1 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an–OH group and a halogen,
  • R 2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 is selected from a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
  • R 4 and R 5 are, independently of one another, selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an –OH group or a halogen.
  • the –OH, R 1 , R 4 and R 5 groups may be in the ortho-, meta-or para-position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to one another.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 4 and R 5 denote a hydrogen atom
  • -the –OH groups are in the ortho- and para-position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to one another.
  • the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.
  • a single type of hydrotrope may be used, but two or more different types of hydrotrope may be used in combination.
  • Hydrotropes may be a diverse class of compounds characterized by an amphiphilic molecular structure and ability to dramatically increase the solubility of poorly soluble organic molecules in water. Many hydrotropes have aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed in the table below. Although hydrotropes noticeably resemble surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles.
  • Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1, 3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N, N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochlor
  • Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J. et al., “Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property” , Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003; and Hodgon T.K., Kaler E.W., “Hydrotropic Solutions” , Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, 12, 121-128, 2007.
  • hydrotropes are preferable hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. While hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerance restrictions. Preferred hydrotropes in cosmetics are listed as below:
  • the suitability of a hydrotrope for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining effects of compounds on skin, and bioavailability methods.
  • hydrotropes An advantage of using hydrotropes is, once a stable solution is obtained, further dilution doesn’t influence the stability of the solution. This is very different from organic solvents that are commonly used to increase the water solubility of actives. Typically, an aqueous dilution of organic solvents with pre-dissolved actives results in crystallization or precipitation.
  • the hydrotrope may have a logP being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.7 to 1.0, preferably from -0.5 to 0.7 for non-ionic hydrotropes, and preferably from -0.7 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes (e.g. acidic hydrotropes) .
  • Formulator will adjust pH in order to reach the best state of transparency with hydrotropes.
  • a logP value is a value for the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-1-ol/water partition coefficient.
  • the logp values are known and are determined by a standard test which determines the concentration of the (c) compound in octan-1-ol and water.
  • the log P may be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may also be calculated using numerous commercially available software packages, which determine the log P as a function of the structure of a molecule. By way of example, mention may be made of the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency.
  • the values may especially be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; they may also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) . There is also an Internet site which provides estimated values (address: http: //esc. syrres. com/interkow/kowdemo. htm) .
  • the hydrotrope be selected from the group consisting of oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide, xanthine bases, preferably caffeine, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, diethyllutidinate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretine, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenylethyl resorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetra
  • Vitamin B3 also called vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula (III) :
  • R may be -CONH 2 (niacinamide) , -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin) , or CH 2 OH (nicotinyl alcohol) , -CO-NH-CH 2 -COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid) .
  • Niacinamide is preferable.
  • Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH 2 , products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
  • nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate
  • amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH 2 products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids
  • esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
  • vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
  • carboxylic acids such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
  • Vitamin B3 or a derivative thereof has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.
  • xanthine bases which may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acefylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprophylline, diprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline, and bamiphylline, without this list being limiting.
  • the xanthine base be selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acefylline and mixtures thereof. These xanthine bases are known as inhibitors of phosphodiesterase, which is the enzyme responsible for the degradation of cAMP. By increasing the intracellular content of cAMP, these xanthine bases promote lipolytic activity and thus constitute first-rate slimming active agents.
  • plant extracts containing xanthine bases mention may be made in particular of extracts of tea, of coffee, of guarana, of Paraguay tea, and of cola, without this list being limiting.
  • the xanthine base has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4, and even more preferably from -0.3 to 2.
  • the jasmonic acid derivative is a compound selected from those corresponding to the following formula (IV) :
  • R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups
  • R 2 represents a hydrocarbon radical which is saturated or unsaturated, which is linear and which has from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or which is branched or cyclic and which has from 3 to 18 carbon atoms; and their optical isomers, and corresponding salts.
  • R 1 denotes a radical selected from-COOH, -COOMe (Me: methyl group) , -COO-CH 2 -CH 3 , -COO-CH 2- -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 OH or-COOCH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 3 .
  • R 1 denotes a -COOH radical.
  • R 2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon radical preferably having from 2 to carbon atoms.
  • R 2 can be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.
  • the compound of formula (I) is selected from 3-hydroxy-2- [ (2Z) -2-pentenyl] cyclopentaneacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and is preferably 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid.
  • the salts of the compounds which can be used according to the present invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium salts; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper salts; salts of ammonium of formula NH 4 + ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts; or lysine or arginine salts.
  • Use is preferably made of salts selected from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts.
  • the jasmonic acid derivative has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.
  • the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the AMPS polymers used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • They are preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%neutralized.
  • AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) .
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and more particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the polymer.
  • the AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case they are:
  • copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
  • these copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • fatty chain means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution that has a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the "homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
  • the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3 , in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90%to 100%;
  • a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.
  • the AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .
  • CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and the salts thereof:
  • -R 1 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and-C 3 H 7
  • -X 1 is chosen from:
  • R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 -) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 -) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 -) group.
  • nonionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • -N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • -R 15 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • -X 2 is chosen from:
  • R 16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) ; a hydroxyl group (-OH) ; ether.
  • fatty-chain-free hydrophobic comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • -styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
  • -vinyl ethers of formula CH 2 CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons;
  • silicone polymers which lead to silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides,
  • -R 23 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • -X 3 is chosen from:
  • R 24 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product Simulgel TM 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) .
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers examples include:
  • AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel TM EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) ;
  • AMPS hydroxyethyl acrylate
  • hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer) .
  • the preferred polymers are more particularly optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
  • the AMPS polymer accounts for from 0.1 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt%to 3 wt%, more preferably from 0.6 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan.
  • Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:
  • oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate.
  • Mentions may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by the company Croda under the tradename Tween TM 20-LQ- (AP) .
  • the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount effective to ensure the stability of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition of the present invention is stable over time.
  • the non-ionic surfactant can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
  • the aqueous phase may represent from 30 wt. %to 98 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 95 wt. %, better still from 50 wt. %to 90 wt. %and even better still from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one oily phase, dispersed in the aqueous phase as described above.
  • the nature of the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention is not critical.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • the oil that is suitable for the present invention are not limited, it may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the oily phase may present in amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 70 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 70 wt. %and more preferably from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this amount of oily phase does not comprise the amount of emulsifier.
  • composition of the present invention may also contain one or more additives that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oily phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 4 and R 5 denote a hydrogen atom
  • -the –OH groups are in the ortho-and para-position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to one another;
  • hydrotrope selected from oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide, xanthine bases, preferably caffeine, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, diethyllutidinate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretine, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenylethyl resorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and jasm
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, for example in the form of a lotion, cream, gel or liquid foundation and they are prepared according to the conventional methods in the cosmetic field.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of less than 50 UD (Deviation Units) , preferably from 17 UD to 35 UD, measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm.
  • UD Deviation Units
  • the viscosity is measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.
  • composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for brightening or whitening keratin materials, and especially human skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
  • Example 1 Preparation of compositions according to invention and comparative formulas
  • compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) 1-2 and comparative formula (comp. ) listed in the table below were prepared:
  • Preparation water phase adding hydrotrope ingredient (NIACINAMIDE and/or CAFFEINE) into water and stirring till complete dissolution, then adding in SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT, stirring till complete dissolution, remaining the temperature at 75°C.
  • hydrotrope ingredient NIACINAMIDE and/or CAFFEINE
  • compositions according to invention formulas and comparative formula prepared in Example 1 were measured.
  • the stability tests at 4°C stability for two months were conducted using Zhongke Meiling refrigerator (YC-260L, China) , by leaving the cosmetic compositions according to invention and comparative formulas in the refrigerator for 2 months.
  • the viscosity is measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.
  • composition according to comparative formula has too low viscosity, which is undesirable.
  • composition according to inventive formula 1 has good stability at various temperatures.
  • composition according to invention formula 1 was conducted, using an ex-vivo protocol as follow:
  • PBS -Receptor fluid
  • compositions according to invention formulas 1 and 2 provide better hydration, nourishment, softness to skin, and anti-dullness.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques sous la forme d'une émulsion, comprenant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, et comprenant : (I) au moins un ingrédient actif antioxydant ou blanchissant pour la peau choisi parmi les composés phénoliques; et (ii) au moins un hydrotrope; et (iii) au moins un polymère dérivé de l'acide 2-acrylamido-méthylpropane sulfonique. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique d'éclaircissement ou de blanchiment de matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau humaine.
PCT/CN2018/123427 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques Ceased WO2020132860A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/123427 WO2020132860A1 (fr) 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
JP2021533259A JP7358474B2 (ja) 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 ケラチン物質をブライトニング又は美白するための組成物
CN201880100507.0A CN113226253A (zh) 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 用于增亮或增白角蛋白材料的组合物

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/123427 WO2020132860A1 (fr) 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020132860A1 true WO2020132860A1 (fr) 2020-07-02

Family

ID=71127365

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2018/123427 Ceased WO2020132860A1 (fr) 2018-12-25 2018-12-25 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques

Country Status (3)

Country Link
JP (1) JP7358474B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN113226253A (fr)
WO (1) WO2020132860A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022133715A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-30 L'oreal Composition pour éclaircir et/ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
CN116648226A (zh) * 2020-12-22 2023-08-25 莱雅公司 用于护理角蛋白材料的组合物
JP2024544301A (ja) * 2021-12-17 2024-11-28 ロレアル 少なくともメロシアニン及びヒドロトロープを含む化粧用又は皮膚用組成物
US12398137B2 (en) 2021-06-17 2025-08-26 Pepsico, Inc. Compositions providing slow release of caffeine

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2023505368A (ja) * 2019-12-09 2023-02-08 ロレアル ケラチン物質を明色化及び／又は白色化するための組成物

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020016358A1 (en) * 2000-04-19 2002-02-07 Nof Corporation Cosmetic composition
CN101365413A (zh) * 2006-01-05 2009-02-11 西姆莱斯有限责任两合公司 含有二苯甲烷衍生物的低油含量的制剂
WO2012136564A2 (fr) * 2011-04-05 2012-10-11 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé acide cucurbique et un polymère semi-cristallin acrylique
WO2015002872A1 (fr) * 2013-07-01 2015-01-08 L'oreal Compositions à usage cosmétique contenant deux composés phénoliques
CN106535994A (zh) * 2013-12-20 2017-03-22 莱雅公司 水溶性活性组分的载体系统
WO2017070933A1 (fr) * 2015-10-30 2017-05-04 L'oreal Composition anhydre comprenant un dérivé diphénylméthane hydroxylé

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE60316650T2 (de) * 2002-10-29 2008-07-24 L'oreal Zusammensetzung in Form einer Öl-in-Wasser Emulsion und deren kosmetische Verwendungen
EP2313074A4 (fr) * 2008-06-30 2015-04-15 Elc Man Llc Compositions topiques contenant de l isonicotinamide
FR2949330B1 (fr) * 2009-08-28 2012-08-10 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un derive diphenyl-methane hydroxyle
WO2014098264A1 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2014-06-26 L'oreal Composition cosmétique
FR3001136B1 (fr) * 2013-01-21 2015-06-19 Oreal Emulsion cosmetique ou dermatologique comprenant une merocyanine et un systeme emulsionnant contenant un polymere amphiphile comportant au moins un motif acide acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonique
FR3001137B1 (fr) * 2013-01-21 2015-02-27 Oreal Emulsion eau-dans-huile cosmetique ou dermatologique comprenant une merocyanine et au moins un polymere emulsionnant du type ester d'acide gras et de glycol polyoxyalkylene

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020016358A1 (en) * 2000-04-19 2002-02-07 Nof Corporation Cosmetic composition
CN101365413A (zh) * 2006-01-05 2009-02-11 西姆莱斯有限责任两合公司 含有二苯甲烷衍生物的低油含量的制剂
WO2012136564A2 (fr) * 2011-04-05 2012-10-11 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé acide cucurbique et un polymère semi-cristallin acrylique
WO2015002872A1 (fr) * 2013-07-01 2015-01-08 L'oreal Compositions à usage cosmétique contenant deux composés phénoliques
CN106535994A (zh) * 2013-12-20 2017-03-22 莱雅公司 水溶性活性组分的载体系统
WO2017070933A1 (fr) * 2015-10-30 2017-05-04 L'oreal Composition anhydre comprenant un dérivé diphénylméthane hydroxylé

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022133715A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-30 L'oreal Composition pour éclaircir et/ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
CN116648226A (zh) * 2020-12-22 2023-08-25 莱雅公司 用于护理角蛋白材料的组合物
CN116669686A (zh) * 2020-12-22 2023-08-29 莱雅公司 用于增亮和/或增白角蛋白材料的组合物
US12398137B2 (en) 2021-06-17 2025-08-26 Pepsico, Inc. Compositions providing slow release of caffeine
JP2024544301A (ja) * 2021-12-17 2024-11-28 ロレアル 少なくともメロシアニン及びヒドロトロープを含む化粧用又は皮膚用組成物

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2022523617A (ja) 2022-04-26
CN113226253A (zh) 2021-08-06
JP7358474B2 (ja) 2023-10-10

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
JP7358474B2 (ja) ケラチン物質をブライトニング又は美白するための組成物
WO2020132856A1 (fr) Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
CN104918927B (zh) 含有至少一种水溶助长剂和至少一种活性化合物的化妆品组合物
RU2554766C2 (ru) Композиции, содержащие противовоспалительную смесь
JP2021152066A (ja) 育毛組成物
CN102451467B (zh) 包含类视色素和NFκB抑制剂的组合物及其使用方法
US10624830B2 (en) Aqueous compositions with mangiferin for cosmetic applications
CN105473126A (zh) 用于化妆品用途的含有两种酚类化合物的组合物
US9018177B2 (en) Cosmetic compositions for increasing bioavailability of the active compounds baicalin and/or vitamin C
US8765693B2 (en) Method of inhibiting premature aging of human skin caused by exposure to infrared radiation
MXPA05001358A (es) Composiciones cosmeticas con propiedades humectantes de la piel, de duracion prolongada.
CN109481370A (zh) 一种舒缓抗过敏抗刺激护肤组合物及其制备方法和应用
MX2012013506A (es) Combinaciones polimericas para preparaciones cosmeticas.
KR102118226B1 (ko) 레티노이드를 함유하는 ｏ/ｗ-에멀젼-유형 국소 약학 조성물
WO2021114024A1 (fr) Composition pour éclaircir et/ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
CN107496181B (zh) 含有白藜芦醇的增溶体系
WO2020132855A1 (fr) Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques
CN116997319A (zh) 稳定的护肤乳液及其使用方法
AU2018202186B2 (en) Topical compositions comprising retinoids and low irritation polymeric cleansing agents
CN107207823B (zh) 水包油乳化组合物
Ochiuz et al. Development of microemulsion dermal products based on avocado oil for topical administration
CN120093616A (zh) 皮肤化妆品组合物
JP2025140245A (ja) 化粧料用組成物

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 18944922

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2021533259

Country of ref document: JP

Kind code of ref document: A

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 18944922

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1