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WO2017036649A1 - Émulsions cosmétiques h/e pour traitement antirides - Google Patents

Émulsions cosmétiques h/e pour traitement antirides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017036649A1
WO2017036649A1 PCT/EP2016/066528 EP2016066528W WO2017036649A1 WO 2017036649 A1 WO2017036649 A1 WO 2017036649A1 EP 2016066528 W EP2016066528 W EP 2016066528W WO 2017036649 A1 WO2017036649 A1 WO 2017036649A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
hyaluronic acid
active ingredient
aging
alkyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2016/066528
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Soraya Heinen
Ira Hartmann
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Annika Bähren
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
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Publication of WO2017036649A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017036649A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to compositions for the cosmetic and topical dermatological anti-wrinkle treatment in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing, in addition to a specific combination of emulsifiers, at least one active ingredient for reducing and / or preventing signs of aging.
  • Means and treatment methods for treating mature and / or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, particularly for anti-wrinkle treatment, are a significant cosmetic challenge.
  • compositions for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin aging phenomena which contain at least one DNA repair enzyme and at least one oligopeptide.
  • German patent application DE 10201421 1205A1 discloses compositions for
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsions which have a lighter texture than conventional 07W emulsions, which are particularly easy to apply to the skin and rapidly into the skin Feed skin.
  • the emulsions should have very good stability, be very skin-friendly and have an excellent anti-wrinkle effect in three dimensions.
  • the application of the skincare preparation should also increase the skin moisture, elasticity and firmness of the skin.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which contains a combination of the following active ingredients a) -d):
  • the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention contain at least one C 12-2o alkyl phosphate or one C 12-2 o alkyl phosphate salt a) in an amount of 0, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion , 01 to 3.00 wt .-%.
  • Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshate or Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshatsalze which form an anionic oil-in-water emulsifier, a first part of the invention used O / W emulsifier, are selected from the monoesters of phosphoric acid with Lauryl, tridecyl, isotridecyl, myristyl, pentanoyl Alkanolamine or glucammonium salt, preferably as sodium, potassium, alkanolamine, trialkylammonium, triethanolamine, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2 methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol or tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salt and may be present as the salt of the basic amino acids ornithine, lysine, arginine and / or histidine.
  • dipotassium monocetyl phosphate is particularly preferred.
  • Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshate or Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshatsalze which form as an anionic oil-in-water emulsifier
  • a first part of the inventive 07W emulsifier system are selected from the diesters of phosphoric acid with lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol or arachidonic alcohol, which are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolamine or glucammonium salt the corresponding sodium, potassium, alkanolamine, trial
  • potassium dicetyl phosphate is particularly preferred.
  • the at least one salt of a C 12-2 o -alkyl phosphate is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, 05 to 2.50 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.075 to 2.25 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one salt of cetyl phosphate and / or a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.50 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.075 to 2.25 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the compositions ,
  • C4-2o mono- or diacylglycerides which are preferred according to the invention and form the second part of the O / W emulsifier system according to the invention are selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride as well as mixtures thereof.
  • Further inventively preferred Ci4-2o mono- or Diacylglyceridmischstead are glycerides cured, that is, hydrogenated, preferably fully hydrogenated, fatty acids of natural oils. Hardened (hydrolyzed) palm oil glycerides are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the at least one C 1-4 mono or diacylglyceride b) is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00 wt%, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.60 wt% preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1, 70 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition , contain.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one substance selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably of 0 , 02 to 2.60 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1.70 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as Ci4-2o mono- or Diacylglyceridmischungen hardened palm oil glycerides in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.60 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1, 70 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise the at least one component a) and the at least one component b) in a weight ratio of from 2/3 to 3/2, preferably from 1/1 to 3/2 and particularly preferably from 6/5 to 3/2 ,
  • Corresponding O / W-emulsifier systems comprising mixtures of Dikaliummonocetylphosphat and Kaliumdicetylphosphat with hardened Palmölglyceriden, are commercially available, for example under the name Emulsiphos ® 677 660 (INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) from the company Symrise. Their use in the compositions of the invention is particularly preferred.
  • the compositions according to the invention therefore contain from 0.05 to 5.00% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x in which R is a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 C atoms, G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10.
  • R is a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 C atoms
  • G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms
  • x stands for numbers from 1 to 10.
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides c) of the general formula RO- [G] x in which R is an alkyl radical having 14 to 20 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is numbers of 1 until 10 stands.
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides c) are derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the radical R is particularly preferably an alkyl radical having 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 carbon atoms or mixtures of these alkyl radicals.
  • the radical R is a mixture of C ds-alkyl chains ("cetearyl").
  • the index number x in the general formula RO- [G] x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie for the distribution of the mono- and oligoglycosides
  • the index number x preferably has a value in the range from 1 to 6, particularly preferably in the range from 1 to 3, which may not be an integer but a fractional number which can be determined analytically Alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a DP between 1.0 to 1.5.
  • compositions of the invention contain - based on their total weight - 0.10 to 4.50 wt .-%. preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt .-%.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside compound known in the INCI name cetearyl glucoside in the abovementioned amounts.
  • a corresponding commercial product which contains compounds with the INCI name Cetearyl Glucoside is available under the name Tego Care® CG 90 from Evonik.
  • agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain-based on their total weight-a) from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.075 to 2 , 25 wt .-% and in particular 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one salt of a Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshats, preferably a salt of cetyl phosphate,
  • alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in which R is a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 C Atoms, G is a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x is a number from 1 to 10, preferably an alkyl (oligo) glycoside known under the INCI name Cetearyl Glucoside, and
  • the compositions according to the invention contain at least active ingredient for reducing and / or preventing signs of skin aging d). This is necessary for the reduction and / or removal and / or smoothing of fine lines to deep wrinkles on the skin.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain the active ingredient for reducing and / or preventing signs of skin aging d) in amounts of 0.02 to 9.00% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 8.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0 , 04 to 7.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 6.00 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • compositions provide an excellent anti-wrinkle effect and visibly and tactually impart more smoothness and firmness to the treated skin.
  • Particularly suitable active ingredients for the reduction and / or prevention of signs of skin aging d) are selected from: plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, esters and / or salts of hyaluronic acid, DNA repair enzymes and mixtures of these active substances.
  • Suitable plant extracts for the purposes of the present invention are substances or substance mixtures which are obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution. A distinction is made according to the nature dry extracts d. H. Extracted to dryness extracts, fluid extracts d. H. extracts prepared with solvents such that at most 2 parts of fluid extract are recovered from one part of the drug, viscous extracts or thick extracts, d. H. Extracts in which part of the solvent is evaporated.
  • the extracts preferably used according to the invention are obtained from the respective plant parts or mixtures thereof by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water, ethanol, 2-propanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1 Very particular preference is given to water, ethanol, 2-propanol and 1,2-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, for example a mixture of 1,2-propylene glycol / water in the ratio 4: 1.
  • the extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 ° C.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the respective plant extract contains at least one polar solvent selected from ethanol, 1-propanol.
  • solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C8-22 fatty acids with 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units. z. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylic / capric acid glycerides,
  • Olive oil ethoxylate (INCI name: PEG-10 Olive Glycerides) is particularly preferred.
  • the dry matter of the extract is dependent on the molecular weight and the solubility of the dispersed ingredients and is usually 1 to 80 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the extract.
  • the dry matter is preferably from 10 to 70% by weight and more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight.
  • Particularly preferred plant extracts which are suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are selected from: flowers of Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle), fruits of Xanthium sibiricum (pointed pimples). Roots of Cyperus rotundus (Nagarmustaka). Corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract). Oat grains (Ave na Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). Apple Seed Extracts (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), Lotus Seeds (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract), Red Wine. Grape seeds, black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), leaves of Mentha piperita, cocoa beans and / or Quassia amara.
  • each extract - based on the total weight of the composition - 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-%, more preferably 0.02 to 4.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.03 to 4.00 wt. -%, most preferably 0.04 to 3.50 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3.00 wt .-%.
  • Quassia amara (Brazilian Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Bitterwood) is a species in the broom family (Simaroubaceae). It is widespread in the Neotropics.
  • the extracts which can be used according to the invention are preferably obtained from the wood.
  • Extracts from Quassia amara can according to known manufacturing processes in variable composition with solvents such.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as active ingredient d) at least one extract of Quassia amara.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the Quassia amara extract in an amount, based on the total weight of the compositions, of from 0.05 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 4, 00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.20 to 3.00 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 0.30 to 2.50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.40 to 2.00 wt .-% contain.
  • Another preferred active ingredient d) which is particularly suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention is selected from hyaluronic acid and / or an ester of hyaluronic acid and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid, since these active ingredients increase skin moisture significantly to increase the elasticity of the skin Skin can contribute.
  • Suitable salts of hyaluronic acid are preferably their alkali metal and / or ammonium salts, for example the hyaluronic acid salt commercially available under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate from various suppliers (Therapo, CPN).
  • Preferred esters of hyaluronic acid may be selected from silanol esters, as obtainable, for example, under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
  • a preferred commercial product is offered for example by the company under the name Exsymol DSH CN ® commercially.
  • hyaluronic acid in pure form, it can also be part of small beads which can be added to the compositions according to the invention. Suitable beads are available, for example under the trade name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ® by the company BASF.
  • compositions according to the invention contain hyaluronic acid and / or esters and / or salt (s) of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 10.00% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7 , 50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.20 to 4.50% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 4.00% by weight ,
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as active ingredient d) hyaluronic acid, esters and / or salts of hyaluronic acid, preferably hyaluronic acid, alkali metal and / or ammonium salts of Hyaluronic acid and / or silanol esters of hyaluronic acid and in particular the compounds known under the INCI names Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate and / or Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
  • compositions according to the invention which are 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 4.50% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 4.00% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.04 to 3.50% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic Filling Spheres® ) and / or dimethylsilanol hyaluronates.
  • compositions according to the invention can be increased to a particular extent if combinations of plant extracts, in particular of Quassia amara extract and hyaluronic acid (derivatives), are added to them as active ingredients d).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as active ingredient d) a mixture of Quassia Amara extract and
  • Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Hyaluronate and / or Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
  • compositions comprising Quassia Amara extract and hyaluronic acid (and / or dimethylsilanol hyaluronates) in a weight ratio of 2: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 1: 5: 1 to 1: 4 and especially 1: 1 to 1: 3 included.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as active ingredient d) at least one DNA repair enzyme in an amount, based on the total weight of the compositions, of from 0.001 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 2 , 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 2.00 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1, 50 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 10 to 1, 00 Gew. % contain.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the DNA repair enzyme is selected from photolyase and T 4 endonuclease V and mixtures of these enzymes.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains as active ingredient d) at least one DNA repair enzyme from the group photolyase and T 4 endonuclease V as well as mixtures of these enzymes.
  • the DNA repair enzymes can be both encapsulated in liposomes and freely, that is not encapsulated, present.
  • the encapsulation of the liposomes may preferably be carried out with phospholipids, more preferably with lecithin.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of at least one liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzyme.
  • Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for.
  • the commercial products Photo somes ® or Ultrasomes ® are preferably each present in amounts of 0.001-1, 00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.75 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 0.50 Wt .-%, most preferably from 0.05 to 0.40 wt .-% and in particular from 0.10 to 0.30 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention can counteract the formation of wrinkles in addition to the treatment of existing skin folds.
  • At least one organic UV filter is contained both in the oil phase and in the water phase.
  • the combination of active substances according to the invention comprising, inter alia, the emulsifier system a), b), c) is particularly well suited as the basis for a large number of dermatologically well-tolerated UV filters.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention therefore comprise from 0.01 to 25.00% by weight of at least one UV filter, the quantities being based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • Further preferred amounts of the at least one UV filter in the compositions of the invention from 0.05 to 22.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 10 to 20.00 wt%, most preferably from 0.50 to 17.50 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 00 to 15.00 wt .-%.
  • Preferred water-soluble organic UV filters are preferably selected from
  • benzimidazole sulfonic acid e.g. Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts.
  • phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt ICI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate
  • Neo Heliopan AP is available from Symrise.
  • Preferred UV filters dissolved in the oil phase are selected from
  • Octocrylene 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester
  • Octocrylene is preferred in a total amount of from 0.50 to 15.00 wt%, more preferably from 1.00 to 13.00 wt%, especially from 3.00 to 1100 wt%, and most preferably 5 , 00 to 10.00 wt .-%, contained in the compositions of the invention, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in a total amount of 0.50 to 10.00% by weight, preferably 1.00 to 8.00% by weight, particularly preferably 2.00 to 5 , 00 wt .-% and most preferably 3.00 to 4.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention,
  • 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (INCI name homosalates), e.g. B. as Neo Heliopan HMS Symrise available.
  • Preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate in a total amount of from 0.50 to 10.00% by weight, preferably from 2.00 to 9.00% by weight, more preferably 3, 00 to 8.00 wt .-%, most preferably 3.50 to 7.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and
  • compositions according to the invention comprise as UV filter at least one derivative of benzimidazole sulphonic acid and at least one further of the UV filters known under the INCI names Octocrylene and Homosalate.
  • O / W emulsions may, for example, be in the form of creams, lotions and / or cosmetic milks and, in addition to the aforementioned active substances, furthermore contain fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances as well as water and optionally further emulsifiers.
  • the content of the water phase in the O / W emulsions according to the invention is preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 15 to 85% by weight, more preferably 20 to 80% by weight, even more preferably 25 to 75% by weight. % and in particular 30 to 70 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the O / W emulsions.
  • water phase in the context of the invention means both water and a water-alcohol mixture.
  • the alcohol content in the emulsions according to the invention may preferably be from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight.
  • Suitable alcohols are preferably glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols , 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned Substances into consideration.
  • Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols may be selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred.
  • Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.
  • the oil phase is present in O / W emulsions according to the invention, preferably in a weight range of 0.50-50.00% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. more preferably from 1.00 to 40.00 wt%, more preferably from 1.50 to 30.00 wt%, and most preferably from 2.00 to 25.00 wt%.
  • the emulsifier (s) is (are) counted neither the oil phase nor the water phase.
  • the oil phase consists of at least 90 wt .-% of an oil component at 20 ° C liquid.
  • Preferred oil components which can be used in emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are selected, for example, from:
  • volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as.
  • octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for.
  • DC 244. 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning or linear, e.g. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4), any two and three mixtures of L 2, L 3 and / or L 4, as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ® 200 (1, 5 cSt) contained by Dow Corning.
  • nonvolatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes commercially available e.g. Dow Coming® 190, Dow Corning® 200 fluid with viscosities in the range of 5 - 100 cSt, preferably 5 - 50 cSt or even 5 - 10 cSt, and Baysilon ® 350 M,
  • esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B.
  • Cegesoft ® C 24 Cegesoft ® C 24
  • hexyldecyl stearate (EutanoP G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate.
  • esters of monovalent or polyvalent C2-C ?? -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
  • esters based on linear Cuns alkanols eg. B. Ci2-Cib-alkyl lactate, and of branched in the 2-position C u; 13-alkanols. z. B.
  • Di-C; 2-C 13-AI ky I ma lat under the trademark Cosmacol ® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, relate, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ® EMI, Cosmacol ® ESI and Cosmacol ® ETI.
  • liquid paraffin oils isoparaffin oils, e.g. As the commercial products of the Permethyl * series, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane.
  • Blends of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters e.g. The commercial product Cetior * PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate),
  • ком ⁇ онент CC the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30 fatty acids may be particularly suitable. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil. Linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil. Olive oil. Rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil, and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. B.
  • natural oils for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil. Linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil. Olive oil. Rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil, and the like.
  • synthetic triglyceride oils in particular Capric / Caprylic t
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / dinutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate,
  • Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for.
  • di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE)
  • di-n-hexyl-n-octyl ether di-n-octyl-n-decyl ether.
  • Particularly preferred oils are silicone oils and esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially volatile and nonvolatile silicone oils from the Dow Corning 200 Fluid series and / or Dow Corning 9041 which Esteröle 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl laurate and / or the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 22 alkanols, in particular the commercial product Finsolv ®. It may also be preferred for some embodiments of the compositions of the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. There are especially mixtures of two types of oil components. z. As a silicone oil and an ester oil. prefers.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain further optional constituents which give them advantageous properties.
  • Other possible ingredients include in particular:
  • hydrogel former natural or synthetic stabilizers
  • anionic copolymers such as the commercial products Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC, Simulgel ® 600, Simulgel ® NS, Simulgel ® EG, Simulgel ® EPG and Sepiplus ® 400, Aristoflex ® AVC from Clariant and the different under the INCI names Carbopol commercially available from products available providers, such as Carbopol Ultrez ® 30 by the company Lubrizol, the Pemulen ® and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon and BF Goodrich), nonionic hydrogel as the commercial products Mowiol ® and Luviskol ® (BASF) and / or natural hydrogel former preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose,
  • Hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starch, eg hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, in particular the anionic starch derivatives aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (eg the commercial products Dry Flo® ), sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and its Derivatives, furthermore, polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, especially sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar,
  • Vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors preferably those which are assigned to the groups A, B, F and H, and in particular vitamin E acetate, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, panthenol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and / or biotin.
  • the vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors can be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight in each case.
  • Preservatives such as benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerol, which may be contained in the compositions of the invention (based on the total weight) in each case in amounts of from 0.01 to 2.00 wt .-%.
  • a second object of the invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the reduction and / or prevention of signs of aging of the skin, in particular skin folds and / or lines, signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or saggy skin and / or skin damaged by UV light.
  • a third object of the invention is a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for reducing and / or preventing signs of aging of the skin, in particular for reducing and / or preventing skin folds and / or lines, signs of intrinsic and extrinsic aging of the skin, tired and or flaccid skin and / or skin damaged by exposure to UV light, which is characterized in that a composition according to the invention is preferably applied to the - preferably previously cleaned - at least every 24 hours, more preferably at least every 18 hours and in particular at least every 12 hours. Skin is applied.
  • compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • compositions were prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless otherwise stated, corresponding to the amount of the respective active ingredient in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:
  • R saturated alkyl radical having 12-24 C atoms
  • G sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms
  • x 1-10
  • Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00
  • Anti-Age active ingredient 0.001 0.001 0.002 0.003 0.004
  • Anti-Age active ingredient 0.001 0.001 0.002 0.003 0.004
  • Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00
  • Quassia Amara Extract 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.00 0.20-3.00 0.30-2.50 0.40-2.00
  • Hyaluronic Acid Sodium 0.01 - 10.0 0.05-7.50 0.10-5.00 0.20-4.50 0.25-4.00 Hyaluronates and / or
  • Vitamin E-acetate 0, 10 to 1, 00
  • Neo Heliopan ®17 AP 0.10 to 2.00
  • Neo Heliopan ®17 AP Disodium phenyl Dibenzimidazole Symrise

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau qui contiennent une combinaison des principes actifs a) à d) suivants : a) 0,01 à 3,00 % en poids d'au moins un phosphate d'alkyle en C12-20 ou d'un sel de phosphate d'alkyle en C12-20, b) 0,01 à 3,00 % en poids d'au moins un monoglycéride ou d'au moins un diglycéride en C14-20 hydrolysé le cas échéant, c) 0,05 à 5,00 % en poids d'au moins un alkyl(oligo)glycoside de formule générale RO-[G]x, dans laquelle R désigne un radical alkyle saturé ayant 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, G désigne un radical sucre ayant 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone et x désigne un nombre de 1 à 10 et d) désigne au moins un principe actif pour atténuer et/ou prévenir les signes du vieillissement. Ces compositions sont adaptées pour atténuer et/ou prévenir les signes du vieillissement, en particulier les rides et/ou les ridules, les symptômes du vieillissement cutané intrinsèques et extrinsèques, la peau fatiguée et/ou sans tonus et/ou la peau abîmée par l'effet des rayons UV.
PCT/EP2016/066528 2015-08-31 2016-07-12 Émulsions cosmétiques h/e pour traitement antirides Ceased WO2017036649A1 (fr)

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WO1992007543A1 (fr) * 1990-10-25 1992-05-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Emulsions d'huile dans l'eau
EP1634576A1 (fr) * 2004-08-13 2006-03-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant des enzymes de réparation de l' ADN et des oligopeptides
US20090028804A1 (en) * 2005-11-28 2009-01-29 Symrise Gmbh & Co. Kg AhR mediators
US20100330007A1 (en) * 2008-02-01 2010-12-30 Amcol International Corporation Imrpoved Skin Brightening Compositions
DE102014211205A1 (de) * 2014-06-12 2014-12-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wirkstoffkombination für tiefenwirksamen Lifting-Effekt
CN104434747A (zh) * 2014-10-13 2015-03-25 金日制药（中国）有限公司 一种具有抗衰老功效的面霜及其制备方法
EP2862562A1 (fr) * 2013-10-09 2015-04-22 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit cosmétique ou dermatologique destiné à l'éclaircissement et à la prévention de l'apparition de taches sur la peau

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WO1992007543A1 (fr) * 1990-10-25 1992-05-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Emulsions d'huile dans l'eau
EP1634576A1 (fr) * 2004-08-13 2006-03-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant des enzymes de réparation de l' ADN et des oligopeptides
US20090028804A1 (en) * 2005-11-28 2009-01-29 Symrise Gmbh & Co. Kg AhR mediators
US20100330007A1 (en) * 2008-02-01 2010-12-30 Amcol International Corporation Imrpoved Skin Brightening Compositions
EP2862562A1 (fr) * 2013-10-09 2015-04-22 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit cosmétique ou dermatologique destiné à l'éclaircissement et à la prévention de l'apparition de taches sur la peau
DE102014211205A1 (de) * 2014-06-12 2014-12-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wirkstoffkombination für tiefenwirksamen Lifting-Effekt
CN104434747A (zh) * 2014-10-13 2015-03-25 金日制药（中国）有限公司 一种具有抗衰老功效的面霜及其制备方法

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ANONYMOUS: "Product Data Sheet Emulgade PL 68/50", 11 August 2016 (2016-08-11), XP055294997, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.cospha.ro/dbimg/Emulgade PL 68-50.pdf> [retrieved on 20160811] *
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