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WO2017063748A1 - Composition et procédé pour fabriquer des préparations dermatologiques et cosmétiques ayant des structures lamellaires distinctes en utilisant de la phosphatidylcholine et par fermentation de micro-organismes - Google Patents

Composition et procédé pour fabriquer des préparations dermatologiques et cosmétiques ayant des structures lamellaires distinctes en utilisant de la phosphatidylcholine et par fermentation de micro-organismes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017063748A1
WO2017063748A1 PCT/EP2016/001708 EP2016001708W WO2017063748A1 WO 2017063748 A1 WO2017063748 A1 WO 2017063748A1 EP 2016001708 W EP2016001708 W EP 2016001708W WO 2017063748 A1 WO2017063748 A1 WO 2017063748A1
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added
mixture
fermentation
composition according
plant
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German (de)
English (en)
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Bernd Kuhs
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K35/00Medicinal preparations containing materials or reaction products thereof with undetermined constitution
    • A61K35/66Microorganisms or materials therefrom
    • A61K35/74Bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/24Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, halogen, nitrogen or sulfur, e.g. cyclomethicone or phospholipids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/26Carbohydrates, e.g. sugar alcohols, amino sugars, nucleic acids, mono-, di- or oligo-saccharides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. polysorbates, sorbitan fatty acid esters or glycyrrhizin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/44Oils, fats or waxes according to two or more groups of A61K47/02-A61K47/42; Natural or modified natural oils, fats or waxes, e.g. castor oil, polyethoxylated castor oil, montan wax, lignite, shellac, rosin, beeswax or lanolin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/46Ingredients of undetermined constitution or reaction products thereof, e.g. skin, bone, milk, cotton fibre, eggshell, oxgall or plant extracts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295Liquid crystals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/068Microemulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • DMS Product As early as 1995 (Derma membrane structure) were made by the inventor and applicant with the designation DMS Product developed and sold, which on the basis of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium: triglycerides, cosmetic active ingredients, and were prepared by high-pressure homogenisation. These cosmetic products were able to do without conventional emulsifiers altogether.
  • the lipophilic and hydrophilic components of the cream also exhibited lamellar structures for the first time, similar to those of the stratum corneum lipid matrix.
  • the lamellar structures conformed to the physiology of the skin and protect the skin against penetration: from external substances and regulate the transepidermal water loss through the skin.
  • lamellar structures are dependent on the geometric packing factors, such as the volume of the fatty acid chains, the critical chain length, and area occupied by the head group (Isräelachvili, JN In Intermolecular and Surface Forces, 2nd ed., Jovanovich, H. B., Academic Press Ltd., London 1994). This means that not every amphiphile lamellar structures or: can form membrane.
  • PC phosphatidylcholine
  • Phosphatidylcholine is found in a high concentration in soya lecithin.
  • DE 19857492, EP 1259218 and DE 10 2006015544 by Kuhs GmbH describe formulations based on hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, medium-chain triglycerides, mixed with different active ingredients. However, the preparation of these formulations can not be carried out by conventional emulsification processes.
  • phosphatidylcholine especially the hydrogenated one, shows a pronounced barrier-stabilizing effect.
  • the skin barrier is stabilized by PCH-containing preparations with a lamellar structure in such a way that after the application of the transepidermal membrane [water loss (TEWL) changes only slightly when external substances act on the skin.
  • TEWL water loss
  • the protection thus obtained is also characterized by a high water resistance and welding strength.
  • the use of hydrogenated phosphatidylchol is highly desirable for cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Object of this invention is to develop a method with which it is possible, using the already since 1995 known ingredients for membrane structure creams, in particular. using hydrogenated
  • High-pressure homogenization can be dispensed with and that the slow fermentation produces quantitatively and qualitatively much more pronounced multilamellar layers, which is very similar to the human skin barrier and significantly increases its protective functions.
  • Rofix fixation and subsequent microscopic examination in the SEM it was found that the multilamellar layers are much more pronounced than is the case with conventional high-pressure homogenization.
  • microorganisms can: in addition, for the skin very: valuable reaction products are formed, such as vitamins A, vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, vitamin D, folic acid, niacin, enzymes.
  • bacterial cultures from the family of lactobacilli are / are added to the mixture.
  • yeast mixtures from the family of the saccharomycytes and / or Candida utillis and / or Kluyveromyces lactis are / are added to the mixture
  • the mixture may be added before or after the fermentation cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients / be.
  • Extracts of the plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) can be added to the mixture.
  • Extracts of the plant Pistacius lentiscus also called mastic or mastiha, can be added to the mixture.
  • the mixture may contain extracts of algae, in particular of the genus Laminaria ochroleuca and / or Alaria Esculenta. and or Be added / be microalgae.
  • Plant seed oils in particular grapeseed oil and / or cranberry seed oil and / or rose hip seed oil, and / or almond oil and / or argan oil may be added to the mixture.
  • Hyaluronic acid or Na-hyaluronate can be added to the mixture.
  • Plant extracts of aloe and / or horsetail can be added to the mixture.
  • Vitamins and / or provitamins and / or enzymes and / or coenzymes and / or proteins may be added to the mixture.
  • the microorganisms are inactivated (killed) after completion of fermentation, so that the finished product no longer contains any living germs.
  • the end product contains a high concentration of active bacteria and / or yeasts which: prevent colonization with pathogenic germs.
  • An embodiment of the invention provides that a concentrate is first prepared, which is added at a later time with hydrophilic and / or lipophilic components and active ingredients and processed into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • the invention is based on some
  • Fig. 1 a REM recording a pre-emulsion before fermentation and ... ,
  • a pre-emulsion is initially produced : with a predominantly droplet shape, which then completely changes into a multilamellar membrane structure over a period of several days by the addition of microcultures.
  • FIG. 1 shows such a pre-emulsion 1 with droplets 2 before the fermentation.
  • the initially liquid, milky consistency turns into a creamy consistency as the fermentation progresses, which is now evidenced by the transition from. of a droplet form into a multilamellar structure.
  • the components are heated to 70-80 ° C and homogenized with conventional homogenizer. After cooling the mixture to 20.degree. C., about 0.5-1% of a mixture of bacterial and yeast cultures are added to the liquid-consistency emulsion and the mixture is stored for 3-7 days at a constant temperature of 18-23.degree.
  • the bioreactor is designed so that anaerobic fermentation can take place, ie under exclusion of air, and the resulting carbon dioxide can escape.
  • the bacterial cultures consist mainly of
  • Streptococcus lactis The yeasts; are mainly Saccharomyces cerevisae, Candida utillis and Kluyveromyces lactis.
  • All components can be combined cold, at room temperature, regardless of the order and by means of a stir bar or the like. be mixed or homogenized.
  • cold manufacturing the manufacturing costs and the space required for a production can be significantly reduced.
  • Heat-sensitive substances can be incorporated immediately.
  • This example recipe shows a very nice consistency and a very good: storage stability of more than 30 months. It also has a complete larval structure, which optimally absorbs it and enhances its protective barrier.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Tropical Medicine & Parasitology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé pour fabriquer des préparations pour application topique destinées à des produits cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques, caractérisé en ce qu'un mélange de - 0,1 à 30 % de phosphatidylcholine, de préférence hydratée, - 0,5 à 50 % d'huiles et/ou de graisse et/ou de cires végétales , - 10 à 90 % d'eau et/ou d'extraits végétaux aqueux, - 0,1 à 20 % de monosaccharides ou de polysaccharides est malaxé et homogénéisé, de préférence à une température de 40 à 90 °C, puis refroidi à 10-40 °C et enfin additionné de cultures de bactéries et/ou de levures.
PCT/EP2016/001708 2015-10-16 2016-10-14 Composition et procédé pour fabriquer des préparations dermatologiques et cosmétiques ayant des structures lamellaires distinctes en utilisant de la phosphatidylcholine et par fermentation de micro-organismes Ceased WO2017063748A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH01505/15A CH711598B1 (de) 2015-10-16 2015-10-16 Verfahren zur Herstellung von dermatologischen und kosmetischen Präparaten mit ausgeprägten lamellaren Strukturen unter Verwendung von Phosphatidylcholin und Fermentation durch Mikroorganismen.
CH01505/15 2015-10-16

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WO2017063748A1 true WO2017063748A1 (fr) 2017-04-20

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11285092B2 (en) 2018-08-08 2022-03-29 Sobel Brands, LLC Cosmetic base compositions and associated cosmetic compositions
CN117050923A (zh) * 2023-10-13 2023-11-14 山东福瑞达生物股份有限公司 一株鼠李糖乳杆菌lr06及其在雪绒花发酵中的应用

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH714305B1 (de) 2017-11-06 2022-07-15 Cosmetolab Ag Verfahren zur Herstellung von topischen Formulierungen und hergestellte Formulierungen.

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DE19857492A1 (de) 1998-12-14 2000-06-15 Hans Lautenschlaeger Wasserhaltige Hautschutzpräparate zur Prävention von Hautschäden
EP1259218A2 (fr) 2000-02-25 2002-11-27 Kuhs Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG Composition cosmetique pour le traitement du vieillissement de la peau et/ou des peaux stressees
WO2001087256A1 (fr) * 2000-05-16 2001-11-22 Pentapharm Ag Composition a activite cosmetique
EP1344528A1 (fr) * 2000-12-19 2003-09-17 Kabushiki Kaisha Yakult Honsha Preparations externes pour la peau et leur procede de production
US20030215546A1 (en) * 2002-05-17 2003-11-20 Unilever Bestfoods North America, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Edible emulsion comprising live micro-organisms
DE102006015544A1 (de) 2006-03-31 2007-10-04 Kuhs Gmbh Topisch zu applizierende Zusammensetzung
WO2008046625A2 (fr) * 2006-10-18 2008-04-24 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Encapsulation de substances sensibles à la chaleur et à l'humidité
JP2010018560A (ja) * 2008-07-11 2010-01-28 Toyobo Co Ltd バイオサーファクタント含有油中水型乳化化粧品組成物
KR100898311B1 (ko) * 2008-10-23 2009-05-19 주식회사 더멋진 바이오텍 두유 복합발효 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 화장료 조성물
DE102011110749A1 (de) 2011-08-16 2013-02-21 Gabriele Blume Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zusammensetzung mit lamellaren Strukturen unter Verwendung von Sucrose-fettsäure-Triestern - einfache und leichte Herstellung

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11285092B2 (en) 2018-08-08 2022-03-29 Sobel Brands, LLC Cosmetic base compositions and associated cosmetic compositions
CN117050923A (zh) * 2023-10-13 2023-11-14 山东福瑞达生物股份有限公司 一株鼠李糖乳杆菌lr06及其在雪绒花发酵中的应用
CN117050923B (zh) * 2023-10-13 2023-12-08 山东福瑞达生物股份有限公司 一株鼠李糖乳杆菌lr06及其在雪绒花发酵中的应用

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