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WO2016102505A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un tensioactif non-ionique et au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polymère cationique et au moins un polymère amphotère, et au moins un silicone - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un tensioactif non-ionique et au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polymère cationique et au moins un polymère amphotère, et au moins un silicone Download PDF

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WO2016102505A1
WO2016102505A1 PCT/EP2015/080851 EP2015080851W WO2016102505A1 WO 2016102505 A1 WO2016102505 A1 WO 2016102505A1 EP 2015080851 W EP2015080851 W EP 2015080851W WO 2016102505 A1 WO2016102505 A1 WO 2016102505A1
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Harshada TULSYAN
Maxime De Boni
Virendra TRIPATHI
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-ionic and at least one anionic surfactant, at least one cationic and at least one amphoteric polymer and at least one silicone
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises one or more specific non- ionic surfactants, one or more anionic surfactants preferably o f sulphate type, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, one or more cationic po lymers and one or more non amino silicones.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
  • the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
  • detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials especially such as the hair and the skin.
  • These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types o f soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
  • compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent” surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
  • the surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally o f anionic, non ionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly o f anionic type .
  • compositions are of good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal o f the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fibre.
  • the conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease-o f disentangling, so ftness and smoothness which are markedly better than that which can be obtained with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
  • a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer preferably a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer.
  • the patent US 6 417 145 describes a washing and conditioning composition comprising an anionic surfactant of alkyl ether sulphate type, an inso luble non-amino silicone and a cationic polymer.
  • compositions still have numerous disadvantages, such as presenting a low foam power and leading to an insufficient deposit o f silicones on hair impacting therefore strongly on their cosmetic properties .
  • compositions such as compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that do not have the combination o f drawbacks described above, i.e. which can give high levels o f foam and enhance cosmetic properties o f said fibres, namely by affording them softness, smoothness and disentangling.
  • the composition should trigger satisfactory silicone deposit on the keratin fibres.
  • composition should also have good detergent properties, and present a good tolerance especially with respect to the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp and the eyes.
  • a cosmetic composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair comprising one or more specific non-ionic surfactants as described after, one or more anionic surfactants of sulphate type and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
  • composition comprising:
  • non-ionic surfactants chosen from the compounds of formula (I):
  • Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 16 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents a linear hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
  • one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 meq/g
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible to generate an abundant foam of very good quality. It especially provides a homogeneous foam which has good persistence over time. Furthermore, the foam formed from the composition according to the invention spreads easily and uniformly on keratin fibres.
  • compositions according to the present invention are able to deposit a high amount of silicones on the keratin fibres .
  • composition according to the invention leads to improved cosmetic properties, and especially affords good conditioning o f keratin fibres such as the hair, including when these fibres are sensitized.
  • composition o f the invention provides, for instance, smoothness, so ftness and disentangling to the hair.
  • the invention also relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied on said keratin fibres.
  • the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from the compounds o f formula (I) :
  • Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 16 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 represents a linear hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • non-ionic surfactants present in the composition o f the present invention are preferentially chosen from compounds of formula (I) wherein Ri represents a linear, saturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a linear hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Ri represents a C6 - C30 alkyl group, preferably a C 6 -C 2 o alkyl group, derived from an acid Ri COOH preferably present in coconut oil.
  • Ri represents a C 6 -C 2 o alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, and more preferentially Cs- C i 6 alkyl group .
  • R 2 represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -OH
  • the compounds o f formula (I) is cocomonoethano lamide (or cocamide MEA) .
  • the composition according to the present invention is free o f compounds o f formula (I) wherein R 2 represents a branched hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially, the composition is free o f coconut monoisopropano lamide.
  • the term "free of” refers to a composition which does not contain (0%) coconut monoisopropano lamide or which contains less than 0. 1 % by weight o f this component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of non-ionic surfactants chosen from the compounds of formula (I), in the composition o f the present invention advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 10%> by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more anionic surfactants, preferably o f sulphate type.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • a species is termed as being " anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use o f the composition o f the invention (for examp le the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture o f these surfactants may be used.
  • - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO " ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 " ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO " ) .
  • acylglycinates acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates
  • alkyl- D-galactosideuronic acids alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C 6 - 3 o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids
  • the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C 6 -C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): R,-(OC 2 H 4 )-OCH 2 COOA (1) wherein,
  • Ri represents a linear or branched C 6 -C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C 8 -C 9 )phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • Ri denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R denotes a C 12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates especially of C 6 -C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • acyllactylates especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 " ).
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N- acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds.
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 " ).
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl ether sulfates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • the anionic surfactants are of alkyl ether sulphate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular salts o f alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammoniums salts, amine salts, amino alcoho l salts or the salts o f alkaline earth metals for example magnesium salts, o f alkyl sulphates, o f alkylamide sulphates, of alkyl ether sulphates, o f alkylamido ether sulphates, o f alkylaryl ether sulphates, of monoglyceride sulphates and mixtures thereo f.
  • salts o f alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammoniums salts, amine salts, amino alcoho l salts or the salts o f alkaline earth metals for example magnesium salts, o f alkyl sulphates, o f alkylamide s
  • the alkyl radical o f all these various compounds preferably contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from salts o f alkyl sulphates, of alkylamide sulphates, of alkyl ether sulphates, o f alkylamido ether sulphates, o f alkylaryl ether sulphates, o f monoglyceride sulphates and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactants are selected from the anionic surfactants of alkyl ether sulphate type, and better still from C 12 - C 14 alkyl ether sulphate salts .
  • the anionic surfactants suitable in the composition o f the repent invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .
  • the anionic surfactants used in the composition contain only one ethylene oxide unit.
  • anionic surfactants are advantageously chosen from alkyl ether sulphates having only one ethylene oxide unit, and better still, the anionic surfactant is the lauryl ether sulphate.
  • the amount of anionic surfactants present in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) .
  • the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C 2 oalkyl)amido(C3-
  • Csalkyl)betaines or (C 8 -C 2 oalkyl)amido(C 6 -C 8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.
  • R a represents a C 6 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
  • B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-X'
  • - X * represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -C(0)OZ ' , -CH 2 -CH 2 - C(0)OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OZ ' , or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y * represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ ' , -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z ' ;
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a ' represents a C 6 -C 3 o alkyl or C 6 -C 3 o alkenyl group of an acid R a '-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 1 7 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 1 7 group;
  • n' is equal to 0, 1 or 2;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group .
  • the compounds o f this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hydro xyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Mirano l ® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Mirano l Ultra C 32 and the product so ld by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
  • - Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)- S0 3 H or the group CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z n ;
  • Rd and R e independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a " represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a "- C(0)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)amido(C 2 -Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof, and even more cocobetaines.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) advantageously ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 meq/g (milliequivalents per gram) .
  • the cationic charge density is greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, more preferentially greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, and better still greater than or equal to 6 meq/g.
  • the cationic charge density could be in the range from 3 to 1 0 meq/g, and more preferentially from 3 to 7 meq/g.
  • the cationic charge density o f a polymer corresponds to the number of mo les o f cationic charges per unit mass o f po lymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i. e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their mo lar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties o f hair treated with detergent compositions, i. e. especially those described in patent application EP- A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660 , 2 598 61 1 , 2 470 596 and 2 5 19 863.
  • cationic polymer denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups .
  • the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average mo lecular mass o f between 500 and 5 x 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 x 10 6 approximately.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a side substituent directly connected thereto .
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly o f polymers o f the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type . These are known products .
  • polymers o f po lyamine, polyamidoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type that can be used in accordance with the present invention, and that can in particular be mentioned, are those described in French patents No . 2 505 348 or 2 542 997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
  • the molar ratio between the polyalkylene-polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227615 and 2961 347.
  • Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising units corresponding to the formulae (V) or (VI):
  • k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
  • P9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 7 and Rs independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower amidoalkyl group, or R 7 and Rs can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; and Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulfite, sulphate or phosphate.
  • Ri o, Ri i , Ri 2 and Rn which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively Ri o, Rn , R 1 2 and R , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Ri o, Rn , R 1 2 and R represent a linear or branched C i -C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R-D or -CO-NH-R-D where R is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group,
  • Ai and B i represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X " denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; Ai , Ri o and R 1 2 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B i can also denote a group -(CH 2 )n-CO-D-OC-(CH 2 )n- , in which D denotes :
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers generally have a number-average mo lecular mass of between 1 000 and 100 000.
  • Ri4, Ri5, Ri6 and R17 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately,
  • n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
  • Ri8, Ri9, R 20 et R 2 i which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ - hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ri 8 , R19, R 2 o and R 2 i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34
  • X denotes a halogen atom
  • A denotes a dihalide group or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -0- CH 2 -CH 2 - .
  • Mirapol ® A 15 Mention may be made among these, for examp le, of the Mirapol ® A 15 , Mirapo l ® AD 1 , Mirapol ® AZ 1 and Mirapol ® 1 75 products sold by the company Miranol.
  • R 22 independently denote H or CH 3 ,
  • a 2 independently denote a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • R 23 , R 2 4 and R 25 which may be identical or different, independently denote an alkyl group of 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl group,
  • R 2 6 and R 27 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • X 2 ⁇ denotes an anion, for example methosulphate or halide, such as chloride or bromide.
  • the comonomer or comonomers that can be used in preparing corresponding copolymers belong to the family o f acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetoneacrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls, or alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.
  • C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide; and
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 meq/g which can be used in the context of the present invention, preference is given to alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers. More preferably the cationic polymers are homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the amount of cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 meq/g advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more non-amino silicones.
  • silicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
  • non-amino silicone denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • the silicones which can be used in the composition according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non- volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably lxlO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • polyalkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average mo lecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the fo llowing mixtures :
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200,
  • - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt
  • - hydroxylated groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR 2 589 476,
  • silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one o f the two portions constituting the main chain o f the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used.
  • These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A- 412,704, ep-a-412 ,707, ep-a-640, 105 and WO95/00578 , ep-a-582, 152 and WO93/23009 and U. S . Pat. Nos . 4,693 ,935 , 4,728 ,571 and 4,972,037, the disclo sures o f which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
  • These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be obtained by radical po lymerization from a monomer mixture comprising :
  • V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers .
  • o f grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain o f thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units o f the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and o f the polyalkyl(methyl)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a connecting chain o f thiopropylene type, polymer units o f the polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxane
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxane
  • the non-amino silicones are chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, and more preferentially from polydimethylsiloxanes .
  • the silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions .
  • the silicones are used in the form o f emulsions and have particle size ranging from 50 nm to 10 ⁇ , more preferably from 100 nm to 10 ⁇ , and even more preferably from 230 to 300 nm.
  • silicon deposition remains high, irrespective to the mo lecular weight, when the particle size is preferably ranging from 100 nm to 10 ⁇ .
  • non-amino silicones which are preferably used in the present invention have a viscosity equals to 60 000 est at 25 °C and shear rate 1 s " 1 .
  • the viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
  • the amount of non-amino silicones advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 1 5 % by weight, and more preferentially from 1 to 1 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more amino silicones .
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • - T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -Cs alkyl group , and preferably methyl, or a C i -Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0, - b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50 , it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 1 0, and
  • - Ri is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2 q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C 2 o alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition o f formula (X) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XI) below :
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 ; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -Cs and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones”.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a -C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute; 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (IX) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XII) below:
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C 2 -Cis alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,
  • - Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8, and
  • - s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
  • R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
  • R8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a group -R 6 -NHCOR 7 ;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • - R 5 denotes a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XI) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula C8Hi7-C6H4-(OCH 2 CH 2 )40-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula Ci 2 H 2 5-(OCH 2 -CH 2 ) 6 -OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.
  • the silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by the company 3M.
  • the amino silicones used in the present invention are the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299, DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the amount of amino silicones is advantageously lower than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferentially lower than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise water, for example in a quantity of from 40 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 98%> by weight, most preferably from 55 to 95% by weight Additives
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds o f the invention.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made o f fatty substances, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, cationic surfactants, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair lo ss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, so lubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents .
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each o f them, o f between 0.001 % and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition as described above is applied on said keratin fibres .
  • the process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres consists in applying to the said keratin fibres an effective amount of a composition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, removing it by rinsing.
  • the leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • the composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
  • the present invention relates to the use o f a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres.
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • compositions A l (invention) and B l (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • test composition is placed in a mixer, this amount being identical for both compositions (Al ) and (B l ), and is diluted at an identical dilution rate for both compositions (A l ) and (B l ); the mixture is mixed vigorously for 1 minute with a mechanical mixer, at room temperature (25 ° C), and is then transferred immediately into a measuring cylinder. The vo lume of foam generated is then measured. c) Results
  • composition according to the present invention Al , comprising cocomonoethano lamide, has a better foaming power than the comparative B l .
  • composition missing this specific non-ionic surfactants B l leads to 90 ml o f foam, whereas the claimed composition provides 130 ml of foam.
  • the hair sensory is not affected by the presence o f cocomonoethanolamide.
  • compositions A2 and A3 (invention) and B2 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • test composition is placed in a mixer, this amount being identical for all the compositions (A2), (A3) and (B2), and is diluted at an identical dilution rate for all the compositions; the mixture is mixed vigorously for 1 minute with a mechanical mixer, at room temperature (25 ° C), and is then transferred immediately into a measuring cylinder. The volume of foam generated is then measured. c) Results
  • compositions according to the present invention provide more than 100 ml o f foam, regardless the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant having a structure identical to the formula (I) wherein the linear hydroxyalkyl group (R 2 ) has been replaced by a branched hydroxyalkyl group (cocomonoisopropano lamide), triggers only 55 ml of foam.
  • composition A3 thus obtained in example 2 was then applied five times on hair.
  • the amount of silicones deposited on the hair was measured after each application.
  • a cumulative effect was observed between the first and the fifth applications.
  • composition according to the present invention (A3) is able to deposit 698 ⁇ g of silicone per gram o f hair, whereas after 2 applications, only 1 0 ⁇ g of silicones are deposited per gram of hair.
  • compositions A4 (invention) and B3 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • test composition is placed in a mixer, this amount being identical for both compositions (A4) and (B3), and is diluted at an identical dilution rate for both compositions; the mixture is mixed vigorously for 1 minute with a mechanical mixer, at room temperature (25 ° C), and is then transferred immediately into a measuring cylinder. The volume of foam generated is then measured.
  • composition according to the present invention comprising a cationic polymer having a cationic charge density greater than 3 meq/g (6 meq/g), provides more foam than the comparative composition (B3), wherein the cationic polymer has a cationic charge density lower than 3 meq/g ( 1 . 1 meq/g) .

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique lavant et/ou conditionnant des fibres de kératine, et en particulier des fibres de kératine humaines telles que les cheveux, qui comprend un ou plusieurs tensioactif(s) non-ionique(s) spécifique(s), un ou plusieurs tensioactif(s) anionique(s), de préférence de type sulfate, un ou plusieurs tensioactif(s) amphotère(s) ou zwitterionique(s), un ou plusieurs polymère(s) cationique(s), et un ou plusieurs silicone(s). L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique pour laver et/ou conditionner des fibres de kératine à l'aide de cette composition. Enfin, l'invention concerne l'utilisation d'une telle composition pour laver et/ou conditionner des fibres de kératine.
PCT/EP2015/080851 2014-12-24 2015-12-21 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un tensioactif non-ionique et au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polymère cationique et au moins un polymère amphotère, et au moins un silicone Ceased WO2016102505A1 (fr)

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0573118A2 (fr) * 1992-06-01 1993-12-08 Colgate-Palmolive Company Compositions tensioactives comprenant des complexes bétaine/cocoamide et leur procédé de préparation
WO2006044296A1 (fr) * 2004-10-13 2006-04-27 Colgate-Palmolive Company Shampooings traitants a silicones solubles detergentes
EP2062567A1 (fr) * 2006-09-08 2009-05-27 Kao Corporation Composition nettoyante pour la peau ou les cheveux
US20130090279A1 (en) * 2011-10-07 2013-04-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampoo Composition Containing a Gel Network

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0573118A2 (fr) * 1992-06-01 1993-12-08 Colgate-Palmolive Company Compositions tensioactives comprenant des complexes bétaine/cocoamide et leur procédé de préparation
WO2006044296A1 (fr) * 2004-10-13 2006-04-27 Colgate-Palmolive Company Shampooings traitants a silicones solubles detergentes
EP2062567A1 (fr) * 2006-09-08 2009-05-27 Kao Corporation Composition nettoyante pour la peau ou les cheveux
US20130090279A1 (en) * 2011-10-07 2013-04-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampoo Composition Containing a Gel Network

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