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WO2013092722A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant une cellulose modifiée de manière hydrophobe et un surfactant anionique comportant un ou plusieurs groupes carboxylate - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant une cellulose modifiée de manière hydrophobe et un surfactant anionique comportant un ou plusieurs groupes carboxylate Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013092722A1
WO2013092722A1 PCT/EP2012/076166 EP2012076166W WO2013092722A1 WO 2013092722 A1 WO2013092722 A1 WO 2013092722A1 EP 2012076166 W EP2012076166 W EP 2012076166W WO 2013092722 A1 WO2013092722 A1 WO 2013092722A1
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weight
group
groups
alkyl
composition according
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Valérie Viravau
Sandrine Decoster
Sabina Meralli
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose and an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylate group(s)
  • the present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more specific hydrophobically modified celluloses and one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s).
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of said composition.
  • these fibres may be subject to attack of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to disentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example following dyeing or permanent-waving.
  • conditioning shampoos Products exist which make it possible to wash the hair while at the same time conditioning it, known as conditioning shampoos, and which make it possible to limit these phenomena.
  • These products generally contain, in addition to anionic surfactants, one or more agents for conditioning keratin fibres, such as cationic polymers. These compounds are deposited on the keratin fibres and make it possible to improve the condition of the fibres, and also the cosmetic properties thereof.
  • a subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more specific hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, as described hereinafter, and one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), in an amount ranging from 3% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This specific combination has proved to be particularly suitable for washing and caring for the hair and has made it possible to obtain improved cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, a smooth feel and a natural coating, while at the same time avoiding an overload after several applications.
  • these shampoo and care compositions are more eco-friendly, i.e. less ecotoxic with respect to the environment.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, consisting in applying to the hair or the body a composition according to the invention, and then in rinsing.
  • compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body.
  • the composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups (degree of hydrophobization) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and from 3% to 50%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) comprising a main chain consisting of a non- ionic cellulose ether to which is or are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:
  • C9-C30 preferably C10-C22, better still C 12 -C 18 , alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups.
  • the aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably comprise from 7, better still from 8, and even more preferentially from 10 carbon atoms, up to 22, even better still up to 18, and even more preferentially up to 16 carbon atoms,
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) not comprising a C3-C8 non-alkoxylated alkyl group.
  • alkoxy groups in the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) group mention may be made of hexyloxy, 2-ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy groups.
  • Examples of a hydrophobic group of family 2) are in particular decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, and even better still dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups.
  • the hydrophobic group(s) may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred.
  • hydrophobic group(s) is (are) chosen from:
  • alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,
  • non- ionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain mention may in particular be made of hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC). Hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred.
  • hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined above.
  • the content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of the hydrophobically modified celluloses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 100.
  • This content is greater than 0.6% by weight, and preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and better still greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose. This content is preferentially less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention has (have) a weight-average molecular weight ranging preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000, and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention is (are) chosen from cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose By way of examples of hydrophobically modified cellulose, mention may be made of the following compounds listed in Table 1, which are commercially available from Hercules: Table 1
  • the Cellulose 1 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4,228,277, using a cetyl halide as reactant, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.
  • a cetyl halide as reactant
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • the Cellulose 2 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4,228,277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • the Cellulose 3 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EPl 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
  • the Cellulose 4 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EPl 858970, using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and of tetradecane.
  • the Cellulose 5 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are surfactants comprising, by way of ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups, at least one of which is a -C0 2 M group, M denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine.
  • the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are not soaps, that is to say they are different from the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals or of ammonium, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid.
  • the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, do not contain sulfonate groups.
  • anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, and C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) of the invention when it is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • aminoalcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino- 2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Use is preferably made of the aminoalcohol salts, alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular the triethanolamine, sodium or magnesium salts.
  • anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) mentioned above
  • use is preferably made of the (C 6 -C24)acylsarcosinates, the (C 6 - C24)acylglutamates and the (C 6 -C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, better still the (C 12 - C2o)acylsarcosinates, the (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates and the (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • use is preferably made of the (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates, the (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates or a mixture thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate groups(s) has (have) the structure (A):
  • M and M' denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine.
  • Y preferably denotes an R'CONH- or R 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) consult0- group.
  • anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the invention
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is a compound having one or more carboxylate group(s)
  • composition according to the invention (are) present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferentially ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the amount of carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 1 to 200, better still from 5 to 100 and even more preferentially from 5 to 50.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants other than those set out above, i.e. which have no carboxylate group, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non- ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • additional surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants other than those set out above, i.e. which have no carboxylate group, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non- ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant which has no carboxylate group is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, by way of ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups chosen in particular from -SO 3 H, -SO 3 " , -OSO 3 H, -OSO 3 " , -H 2 PO 3 , -HPO3 " , -PO3 2" , -H2PO2, -HPO2 " , -PO2 2” , -POH, -PO groups, and comprising no -CO 2 H or -CO 2 " group.
  • anionic surfactants which have no carboxylate group
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, N,N-methyl-(Ci 2 -C 2 o)acyltaurates; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
  • anionic surfactant(s) which has (have) no carboxylate group is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts, or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • aminoalcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants which have no carboxylate group are in particular sodium ⁇ , ⁇ -methylcocoyltaurate and sodium cocoylisethionate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate.
  • the additional anionic surfactants do not contain sulfate units.
  • the amount of the additional anionic surfactant(s) comprising no carboxylate group preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of anionic surfactants in the compositions of the invention ranges preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, better still from 3% to 25% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
  • RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxy ethyl group
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X* represents the group -CH 2 COOH, CH 2 COOZ'
  • Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group
  • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
  • Ra' represents a Cio-C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra ' COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C 17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 - C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • non- ionic surfactants examples include but not limited to, in the "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
  • They are in particular chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci- C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.
  • fatty compound such as, for example, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the amount of the non- ionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20%> by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 10%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and non-ionic surfactants, ranges from 3% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight and better still from 8%) to 30%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain one or more cationic surfactants.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise(s) in particular the salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C 6 )alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl acetate, and C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl groups,
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
  • Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk
  • Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,
  • Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Ri4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives
  • R14 denotes a methyl group
  • R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat ® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
  • Ri 7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 ) 3 -N + (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),
  • Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R 2 o and R 2 i which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 75);
  • R 22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl groups and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • R 23 is chosen from: - the group F3 ⁇ 4— c—
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29 - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29,
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • X " is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - P 23 is chosen from:
  • - P 25 is chosen from:
  • P 24, P 26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehy quart ® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat ® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.
  • Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactants it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition contains one or more cationic surfactants
  • their content preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer is intended to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-siliceous.
  • the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all of those already known per se to enhance the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers used have a weight-average molecular weight of more than 10 5 , preferably of more than 10 6 and better still of between 10 6 and 10 8 .
  • cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, poly amino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.
  • polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type that can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
  • R 3 and R4 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
  • R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • Re, P 7, R-8 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from co monomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (d-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • co monomers may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (d-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrro lidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci- C 4 )alkyl ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil can more particularly be used.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-37), for example, as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can also be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;
  • Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361 ;
  • polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine.
  • These polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide.
  • polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
  • Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508; (4) polyammoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.
  • a dicarboxylic acid chosen from digly colic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer;
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or Rio and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl
  • Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, denote preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri 6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri 6 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri 6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X " denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid,
  • Ai, Ri3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
  • Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • Bi may also denote a group (CH 2 ) n -CO-D-OC-(CH 2 ) p -,
  • n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
  • x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight of between 1000 and 100 000.
  • Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
  • R22, R23, R24 and R25 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group,
  • R 2 2, R23, R24 and R 25 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom
  • t and u which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
  • X denotes an anion such as a halide
  • A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-CH 2 -
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt such as 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are used, for example;
  • cationic proteins or cationic protein hydro lysates polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon.
  • Their molecular weight may range, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately.
  • - protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, said ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Croquat M in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain C 10 -C 18 alkyl groups
  • - Croquat S in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C 18 alkyl group
  • quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to formula (XIV):
  • X " is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates
  • R2 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms
  • R30 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrotriticum WQ or QM referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein
  • Hydrotriticum QL Hydrotriticum QL
  • Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
  • the cationic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from those of families (1), (6), (9) and (10).
  • cationic cyclopolymers in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco
  • quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and of methylvinylimidazolinium chloride sold under the name Luviquat Excellence by BASF
  • cationic polysaccharides more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, under the name Jaguar C13S by the company Rhodia or cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, for instance the cellulose ethers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR400 LT by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical)
  • the cationic polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more branched fatty alcohols. They preferably comprise from 10 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 16 to 40, even better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms. They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkylenated.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non- aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • They may be solid or liquid, and preferably liquid.
  • liquid fatty alcohol is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • branched fatty alcohol By way of examples of a branched fatty alcohol, mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2- tetradecyl-l-cetanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-eicosanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the branched fatty alcohol used in the invention is 2- octyl- 1 -dodecanol.
  • the branched fatty alcohol(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more silicones which are not chemically modified.
  • sicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based groups being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups that are the most common are alkyl groups, especially Ci-Cio alkyl groups, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl groups, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl groups and in particular phenyl.
  • silicone which is not chemically modified is intended to mean any linear or cyclic silicone which does not comprise in its structure any organo functional group, such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.
  • organo functional group such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.
  • the silicones which are not chemically modified, of the invention comprise in their structure only siloxane groups substituted with alkyl or aryl groups.
  • the silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • These polyorganosiloxanes are preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl groups being a phenyl group.
  • the alkyl groups are methyl groups.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company
  • Silicone fluids for cosmetics When the silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5x 10 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably l x lO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 x 10 "5 to 5x 10 ⁇ 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffms, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number- average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x 10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon- based group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon- based group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a Q- C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • the silicones which are not chemically modified, that are particularly preferred, are linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups or dimethicones.
  • the silicone(s) which is (are) not chemically modified is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of silicone(s) which is (are) not chemically modified and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.
  • composition may also comprise one or more amino silicones.
  • amino silicone is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms.
  • amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:
  • T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 , m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R 1 is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a Ci-C 2 o alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XV) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XVI) below:
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 , a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -Cs and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group and m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, ⁇ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (XV) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XVII) below: (CH 3 ) 3 SiO
  • a compound of formula (XV) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI;
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,
  • Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to
  • s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from
  • R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C 2 -Cis alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an Si-C bond,
  • R-8 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C 2 -Cis alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR 7 ,
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.),
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to
  • R 2 , R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or non-ionic surfactants.
  • Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a non-ionic surfactant of formula C 13 H 27 - (OC 2 H 4 ) 12 -OH, known under the CTFA name trideceth-12.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XVII) described above, a non-ionic surfactant of formula: CsHn-CeFL;- (OCH 2 CH 2 )4o-OH, known under the CTFA name octoxynol-40, a second non-ionic surfactant of formula: Ci 2 H 2 5-(OCH 2 -CH 2 )6-OH, known under the CTFA name isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning
  • Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone of formula (XVI) in combination with trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XV), and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (XVI) or (XVII).
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 3% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of amino silicone(s) and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils.
  • triglyceride oils of plant origin for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rose musk oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil, babassu oil, pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • sunflower oil for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apri
  • the plant oil consists of triglycerides of which the total content of CI 8 fatty acids comprising an unsaturation and of C18 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations (called C18 : 1+C18 :2 according to the biochemical or physiological nomenclature of fatty acids) represents more than 20% by weight of the total content of fatty acids.
  • C18 : 1+C18 :2 the total content of CI 8 fatty acids comprising an unsaturation and of C18 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations
  • the composition comprises two or more than two plant oils.
  • the content of plant oils of the composition of the invention can range from 0.001% to 20% and better still from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the plant oil(s) is (are) preferably present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 4% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.
  • anhydrous is intended to mean a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials.
  • an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30%> by weight of water, and preferably at least 45 %> by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention is aqueous
  • its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8.
  • the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or inorganic acids.
  • inorganic acid is intended to mean any acid derived from an inorganic compound.
  • inorganic acids mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
  • Use may be made in particular of inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula: in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and Ra, Rc and Rj, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers, plant waxes and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
  • additives chosen from ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, pep
  • additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can be, in a non-limiting manner, in the form of conditioning shampoos and conditioners, body wash products, and in particular a shower gel.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above and in rinsing.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body, or as conditioning shampoos.
  • conditioning shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • Another conditioning shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • Example 3 (9 Sold under the name Kathon CG Preservative by the company Rohm and Haas, containing 1.5% by weight of active material Example 3 :
  • a shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 3 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity for being applied to hair.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 3 were applied to hair and then rinsed off.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de nettoyage du corps ou de démêlage des cheveux, comprenant une ou plusieurs celluloses modifiées de manière hydrophobe ayant une teneur en groupes hydrophobes supérieure à 0,6 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la cellulose modifiée de manière hydrophobe, et un ou plusieurs surfactants anioniques comprenant un ou plusieurs groupes carboxylate, ladite ou lesdites celluloses modifiées de manière hydrophobe comprenant une chaîne principale constituée d'éther de cellulose non ionique auquel sont liés un ou plusieurs groupes hydrophobes choisis parmi : 1) des groupes 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(alkyle en C3-C6) dans lesquels le fragment alkoxy est ramifié ou linéaire et comprend de 5 à 30 atomes de carbone, 2) des groupes alkyle en C9-C30, et des groupes aryle, arylalkyle ou alkylaryle en C6-C30, 3) et leurs mélanges, ladite ou lesdites celluloses modifiées de manière hydrophobe ne comprenant pas de groupe alkyle non alkoxylé en C3-C8, le ou les surfactants anioniques comprenant un ou plusieurs groupes carboxylate présents en une quantité allant de 3 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'invention concerne également un procédé de démêlage des cheveux ou de lavage/nettoyage du corps par utilisation d'une telle composition ainsi qu'une utilisation cosmétique de ladite composition pour démêler les cheveux ou pour laver/nettoyer le corps.
PCT/EP2012/076166 2011-12-19 2012-12-19 Composition cosmétique comprenant une cellulose modifiée de manière hydrophobe et un surfactant anionique comportant un ou plusieurs groupes carboxylate Ceased WO2013092722A1 (fr)

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FR1161964A FR2984156B1 (fr) 2011-12-19 2011-12-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant une cellulose hydrophobiquement modifiee et un tensioactif anionique a groupement(s) carboxylate(s)

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FR3007976B1 (fr) * 2013-07-04 2015-06-26 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester resultant de l'esterification, par un acide polycarboxylique, d'un ester d'acide hydroxy carboxylique aliphatique et un derive non ionique de cellulose modifie hydrophobe

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