WO2014140485A2 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition and use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Abstract: The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous extract of everlasting flower, an oil extract of everlasting flower, an essential oil of everlasting flower and an essential oil of myrtle. The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment comprising the use of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of everlasting flower, an oil extract of everlasting flower, an essential oil of everlasting flower and an essential oil of myrtle. The present invention can be applied, in particular, to the fiields of cosmetics and dermatology.

Description

 COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AND SOUND

 USE

DESCRIPTION

 Technical area

 The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle.

 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the use of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an immortelle essential oil and an essential oil of myrtle.

 The present invention finds application particularly in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.

 In the description below, references in brackets ([]) refer to the list of references at the end of the text. State of the art

The skin is the heaviest organ of the human body and has a very complex architecture. Barrier between the outer and inner environments of our body, its operation has two ends: to ensure communication between the body and the external environment and protect it from aggression. The functions of the skin are multiple, but four main roles are recognized: protection because the skin constitutes a physical, immunological and biological barrier, thermoregulation through its role in the maintenance of body temperature, metabolism through the hypodermis, place of main storage of triglycerides produced during lipogenesis and which can be mobilized for lipolysis and sensation at the origin of one of the five senses: the touch. Skin aging can lead to an alteration of body image perception with, ultimately, dysmorphophobic or depressive symptoms as described in Koblenzer CS. Psychology aspects of aging and the skin. Clinics Dermatol 1996; 14: 171 -7 [1]. On the other hand, people with signs of skin aging are often perceived by our society as unhealthy and unable to take initiatives (Koblenzer CS, Psychology aspects of aging and the skin, Clinical Dermatol 1996; 14: 171 -7 [1 ]). Thus, the therapeutic demand to prevent skin aging is today stronger and stronger. To answer it, a better knowledge of its physiopathology, but also of its clinical consequences, is necessary. Like all other organs, the skin is subject to aging. Chronological, genetic, and endocrine factors (Pierard GE, Theory of climacteric skin aging, Dermatology 1996, 193: 273-4 [3]), such as postmenopausal changes in women, determine intrinsic skin aging.

 The skin is also subjected to extrinsic aggressions which, over time, amplify the phenomenon of intrinsic aging. The role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation is major. They are responsible for photo-aging. UVA rays are certainly at least as harmful as UVB rays as indicated in Petersen MJ, Hansen C, Craig S. Ultraviolet A irradiation stimulates collagenase production in cultured human fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol 1992; 99: 440-4 [4].

Environmental factors, primarily tobacco and alcohol, also contribute to skin aging. Other radiations (infrared, X-rays, gamma rays, but probably also visible light), gravity occur to a lesser extent. Al Intrinsic aging: The biological mechanisms are linked to an imbalance between cellular degradation phenomena (active forms of oxygen, end-products of glycation, etc.) and repair systems (antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes, proteosomal enzymes, proteases, proteinases). , phospholipases and acyltransferases, enzymes involved in bond stability, etc.). DNA repair mechanisms play a major role in the fight against aging. Several enzymatic systems cooperate to repair mutations spontaneously generated by the body or induced by external aggressions (eg UV radiation).

B / Extrinsic aging:

 UV radiation is the main factor responsible for extrinsic aging. Its mechanism of action is twofold: either by direct interaction on cellular DNA (interference primarily due to UVB) or indirectly through the active forms of oxygen, which is the main mode of action of UVA ( West MD, The Cellular and Molecular Biology of Skin Aging, Arch Dermatol 1994; 130: 87-95 [5]).

 By interacting directly with DNA, UVs induce the formation of photo-products (especially thymidine dimers for UVB) that can lead to mutations, the initiation of carcinogenesis, and even cell death. When the received UV doses are too high, the activation of the p53 protein makes it possible to cause death of the keratinocyte by apoptosis phenomenon.

 UV radiation also increases the expression of metalloproteinases (MPs) in the epidermis and dermis (these enzymes degrade collagen and other macromolecules in the dermal extracellular matrix).

A sun exposure of only 5 to 15 minutes at noon leads to the production of collagenase, stromelysin-1 and gelatinase of 92kDa. Collagenase hydrolyzes the collagen fibers, then stromelysin-1 and gelatinase of 92kd eventually degrade them.

Cl Histological, clinical and functional consequences

 Intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging thus add up their deleterious effects on all cutaneous structures. The respective part of the changes caused by intrinsic or extrinsic aging is often difficult to individualize because of the existence of sometimes conflicting bibliographic data. With age, the different skin structures are morphologically and functionally altered. The main consequences are a decline in defense, healing, perception and thermoregulation functions as well as the establishment of a chronic inflammatory state corresponding to an increase in the number of macrophages and persistent dry skin (Harvell JD, Maibach Hl. Percutaneous uptake and inflammation in aged skin: a review., J Am Acad Dermatol 1994; 31: 1015-21 [6]).

 On the morphohistological level, intrinsic skin aging is manifested by atrophy of the dermis, that is to say a reduction in the number of fibroblasts and mast cells, and the epidermis. In the epidermis, the turnover of the epidermis goes from 21 days to 40 days hence the negative impact on healing and tissue repair (Grove GL, Kligman AM Age-associated changes in human epidermal cell renewal J Gerontol 38: 137-42 [7]). The keratinocytes are decreasing in size and their number is decreasing. Cell renewal slows down and cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis diminishes. In the dermis, the collagen fibers break, their natural renewal becomes more difficult, elastin loses its elasticity. The dermis gradually loses its density, it thins, wrinkles and fine lines appear.

Extrinsic aging leads to a reduction in both the number of collagen fibers and their quality. He provokes the accumulation of poor quality elastic fibers, thus reducing the elasticity of the skin. Like intrinsic aging, it slows the proliferation of cells. Finally, it reduces the uniformity of pigmentation, which gives the skin a duller and older appearance.

 Many anti-aging compositions are known in the state of the art. However, these compositions do not allow both to fight, in a systematic and pronounced manner, against the effects of skin aging while protecting the skin from external aggression.

 There is therefore a real need to find a new compound, composition and / or a means simultaneously for treating skin aging and / or the causes causing aging while protecting the skin from external aggressions overcoming all defects, disadvantages and obstacles of the prior art cited above.

Presentation of the invention

 The present invention is specifically intended to meet this need by providing a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle.

 The present invention also relates to the cosmetic and / or dermatological use of this composition. In particular, the present invention relates to the cosmetic and / or dermatological use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an immortelle essential oil and an essential oil of myrtle.

As used herein, "extract" means an extract obtained for example from a plant and / or part of a plant. It may be for example an extract obtained from flowers or flower heads, leaves, seeds, roots, stems, seeds, pericarp. It may be for example an extract obtained from whole flowers. In the present "immortelle" is meant a species of flowering plants of the family Asteraceae and genus Helichrysum. In particular, it may be Helicrysum italicum which may be present all around the Mediterranean. It may be for example the immortelle described in French Patent Application No. 01/1 1224.

 In the present "aqueous extract" is meant any aqueous extract obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. For example, it can be obtained by aqueous extraction, by hydrodistillation, hydro-glycerinated or hydro-alcoholic extraction.

 According to the invention, the aqueous extract of immortelle can be any aqueous extract of immortelle known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, a biological aqueous extract of Immortelle, for example a biological immortelle extract from Corsica from Greentech.

 According to the invention, the aqueous extract may comprise, for example, from 0.1 to 0.3% of sugars, for example 0.2% by weight of sugars, from 1 to 2 ppm of vitamin E, for example 1.7 ppm. of vitamin E and from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of polyphenols, for example 0.44% by weight of polyphenols including 50 ppm of caffeic acid.

 As used herein, "oily extract" means an extract rich in fatty acid and / or fat and / or a non-water soluble extract.

According to the invention, the oily extract may be any oily extract obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. For example, it can be obtained by oily extraction by microwaves, microwave, supercritical extraction, maceration in an oily solvent, ultrasonic assisted oily extraction. It may be, for example, an organic oily extract of immortelle by microwave extraction assisted by ultra sounds according to a process comprising a first step of grinding the immortelle flowering top followed by an ultrasound-assisted extraction and by microwaves, then a clarification and finally a filtration step to recover the oily extract. As used herein, the oily immortelle extract can be obtained from a plant and / or part of a plant. It may be for example an oily extract obtained from flowers or flower heads, leaves, seeds, roots, stems, pericarp.

 Herein, the oily extract of immortelle may comprise

0.1 to 0.3% by weight of sugars, for example 0.2% of sugars, 0.04 to 0.06% by weight of vitamin E, for example 0.051% of vitamin E, of 99% to 99% 9% by weight of fatty acids, for example 99.8% by weight of fatty acids, of which 80 to 85% of oleic acid, for example 83.4% of oleic acid, 6 to 8% linoleic acid (omega-6), 2-5% palmitic acid and 2-4% stearic acid, but is particularly distinguished by its phytosterol content of 0.2% to 0.5%, 0.35% of which a majority of beta-sitosterol 0.2% and polyphenols 0.01 to 0.1%.

 In the present, the profile of the sterols can be measured according to any known method, for example according to ISO 1228; the dosage of vitamin E can be measured according to any known method, for example according to standard NF V18-402; the fatty acid profile may be measured according to any known method, for example according to standard NF EN ISO 5508/5509; the profile of the sugars can be measured by any known method, for example by a chromatographic technique such as ion chromatography, the total polyphenol assay can be measured by any known method, for example according to the ISO 14502-1 standard.

 In the present "essential oil" means any essential oil obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. For example, it can be obtained by hydrodistillation. It may be for example a biological essential oil of immortelle, that is to say from organic farming, for example a biological essential oil of Corsica, companies TEPPE ROSSE, STEPHAN FRANCISCI, GAEC of ASTRATELLA or a mixture of two or three of these oils.

In the present, the essential oil can be obtained, for example from a plant and / or part of a plant. It can be by example of an oil obtained from flowers or flower heads, leaves, seeds, roots, stems.

 As used herein, the organic essential oil of immortelle can comprise from 35 to 50% by weight of neryl acetate.

 Whatever the nature of the immortelle extract, the extracts can be obtained by any of the techniques known to those skilled in the art, for example supercritical or hydroalcoholic extraction.

 The term "cosmetic composition" is intended to mean any cosmetic composition, for example a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the external organs, the teeth and mucous.

 According to the invention, the aqueous extract of immortelle may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

 According to the invention, the oily immortelle extract may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.001 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0.001 to 2% by weight relative to to the total weight of said composition.

 According to the invention, the immortelle essential oil may be present in the composition at a concentration of from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to total weight of said composition.

 According to the invention, the sum of the aqueous, oily extract and the essential oil in the composition of the invention may be from 0.001 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0, From 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to the invention, the essential oil of myrtle, may for example be an essential oil of green myrtle, for example an oil essential of myrtle green Corsican. This oil can for example be a biological oil.

 According to the invention, the essential oil of myrtle may be present in the composition at a concentration of, for example, from 0.001% to 1%, for example from 0.01% to 0.5%.

 In other words, according to the invention, the essential oil of myrtle may be present in the composition at a concentration of, for example, from 0.001% to 1%, for example from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

 The composition according to the present invention may further comprise spherulites of myrtle essential oil, for example of Myrtus communis essential oil, for example an essential oil of green myrtle, for example of corse green myrtle essential oil, for example organic essential oil of Corsican green myrtle. It may be for example the essential oil marketed by the company GAEC ASTRATELLA.

 Herein, the concentration of spherulites of myrtle essential oil can range, for example, from 0.05% to 7%, for example from 0.1% to 3%.

 The composition according to the present invention may furthermore comprise spherulites of essential oil of immortelle, for example of essential oil of Helichrysum italicum, for example an essential oil of immortelle Corse, for example a biological essential oil of immortal Corsica.

 Herein, the spherulite concentration of immortelle essential oil may be, for example from 0.05% to 7%, for example from 0.1% to 3%.

 The term "spherulites" means vesicles composed of alternating lipid bilayers of about one micron.

Advantageously according to the invention, the composition comprising essential oil of myrtle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an extract oily immortelle, an essential oil of immortelle advantageously allows to simultaneously increase the smoothing, the tone of the skin via the synergistic stimulation of the expression of genes coding for the proteins constituting corneocytes and genes involved in metabolism sphingolipids. In particular, the composition according to the invention advantageously and simultaneously makes it possible to reduce wrinkles and fine lines while plumping the skin.

 According to the invention, the composition may further comprise honey. It may be for example a spring honey from Corsica, for example Corsican honey marketed by beekeeper producer Franck Dupré located in Calenzana.

 According to the invention, the honey may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of from 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.1 to 15%, for example from 0.1 to 5%, for example from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 Advantageously according to the invention, the composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of myrtle and honey advantageously makes it possible to simultaneously and synergistically treat the signs skin aging, for example wrinkles / fine lines, age spots, increase the suppleness and tone of the skin via the stimulation of genes involved in the cohesion of cutaneous cells, in the structure of collagen fibers, and in the cellular repair.

In particular, the composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reinforce the skin barrier effect and / or to protect the skin from external aggressions such as ultraviolet rays via, in particular, the synergistic stimulation of the expression of genes coding for proteins. involved in strengthening the extracellular matrix and genes involved in DNA repair According to the invention, the composition may further comprise the hydroglycerine extract of water clover.

 In the present by "clover of water", one understands the Ményanthe or clover of water, Menyanthes trifoliata.

 According to the invention, the hydroglycerinated extract of water clover may for example be the extract sold by the company Codif under the catalog reference hydrofiltrate Menyanthes G.

 According to the invention, the hydroglycerinated extract of water clover can be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example 0.01 at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

 The hydroglycerine extract of water clover makes it particularly advantageous to firm the skin and improve the oval of the face. It also has antioxidant properties, particularly advantageously to prevent skin aging.

 According to the invention, the composition may comprise, for example a compound selected from the group comprising a hyaluronic acid derivative, for example calcium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, an extract of Bellis Perennis, a mixture of vegetable oils evening primrose, borage, echium and camelina.

 According to the invention, the Bellis Perennis extract may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.01 to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of said composition.

 According to the invention, when the Bellis Perennis extract is an aqueous extract, it may be for example the extract sold by the company CLR under the reference Belides catalog.

The aqueous extract of Bellis Perennis advantageously allows in particular to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots. According to the invention the hyaluronic acid derivative may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.001 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid derivative may be for example the "Hyaluronic acid sodium knows" marketed by Laserson.

 The hyaluronic acid derivative advantageously makes it possible in particular to improve the hydration of the skin.

 According to the invention, the composition may furthermore comprise at least one oil chosen from evening primrose vegetable oil, borage oil, echium oil and / or camelina oil.

 According to the invention, the evening primrose vegetable oil may be any evening primrose vegetable oil known to a person skilled in the art, it may be, for example, the organic evening primrose oil marketed by the company DSKH.

 According to the invention borage oil may be any borage plant known to those skilled in the art, it may be for example organic borage oil marketed by the Emile Noël oil mill.

 According to the invention, the echium oil may be any echium oil known to those skilled in the art, for example it may be HU echium Plantagineum oil marketed by Croda.

 According to the invention the camelina oil can be any camelina oil known to those skilled in the art, it may be for example the organic camelina oil marketed by the company Codina, the oil

"Gold of pleasure" marketed by the company IMCD.

According to the invention, said at least one oil chosen from vegetable oil of evening primrose, borage, echium and camelina may be present in the composition for example at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total of said composition According to the invention, the composition may furthermore comprise a mixture of vegetable oil of evening primrose, borage, echium and camelina.

 According to the invention, the vegetable oil mixture of evening primrose, borage, echium and camelina may be present in the composition, for example at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total of said composition.

 According to the invention, the cosmetic composition may be in any form known to those skilled in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, without any particular pharmaceutical restriction.

 The cosmetic or dermatological composition may be in any galenical form known to those skilled in the art, for example in the form of an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a stick, an impregnated buffer, a transdermal patch, a solution, a gel, a spray, a lotion or a suspension. It may be for example a cream, a milk, a gel, a lotion, an ointment, a transdermal patch.

 The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention may be, for example a composition for the care of the face, of the body, for example compositions for the face and / or the body.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention can be obtained by any appropriate method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using the Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP) method conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil emulsions in water whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μιτι.

 According to the invention, the cosmetic composition may be a composition used in an anti-aging treatment

 It may be for example a cosmetic composition for the treatment of cutaneous aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines.

 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application on the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle.

 The aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle are as defined above.

 The cosmetic composition may also further comprise honey and / or a clover extract of water and / or a Bellis perennis extract and / or a hyaluronic acid derivative and / or a mixture of vegetable oils.

 The honey, the water clover extract, the Bellis perennis extract, the hyaluronic acid derivative and the vegetable oil mixture are as defined previously.

 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application on the skin of a composition according to the invention.

 According to the invention, the cosmetic treatment may be an anti-aging treatment, a protective treatment, a repairing treatment, a smoothing treatment.

For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the galenic forms described above. The application to the skin can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used. This may be, for example a simple application to the skin or an application accompanied, for example, a skin massage with the composition of the present invention.

 The application is preferably carried out with a sufficient amount of the composition so that the entire surface of the skin to be treated is treated. It may be for example a conventional application, such as a cream on the skin. For example, it may also be an application for forming a treating mask.

 The application can be any application desired by the user, for example a daily, twice daily, weekly and / or bi-monthly application. This may be for example an application once a day, twice a day or more.

 The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present invention and a manual or instructions for use. The kit can be for example a packaging.

 The manual or this notice may have the particular function of explaining to the user how and how often the composition of the present invention is applied to the skin.

 According to the invention, the cosmetic care kit may also comprise an applicator, for example a spatula, a brush, a dynamic applicator, for example a massage device impregnated with the cosmetic composition of the invention. EXAMPLES

 Example 1: Example of a cosmetic composition for the care of the face (cream)

 A base composition described in Table 1 below was prepared by mixing the various components shown in Table 1 below:

Table 1: Basic composition for the face (cream) Quantity in% by weight

Ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition (%)

Alkyl polyglucoside 2-5

Hard fat 1 -2,5

Caprylic caprylic triglycerides 5-15

Ester 10-20

Vegetable oils 1 -5

Glycerin 3-8

Acrylate gelling agent 1 -2

Trace elements 0,1 -1

Vitamin C derivative 0.5-2

Perfume Qs

Preservatives, antioxidants,

 pH regulator Qs

Water qs 100%

The base composition was prepared according to the following method: the glycerin was introduced into the water and mixed at 1500 rpm, and then the mixture was heated to 80 ° C. the gelling agent was dispersed in this mixture with stirring at 1500 rpm until dissolution.

 the oily phase prepared beforehand by mixing, for example emulsifier, hard fat, capric capric triglycerides, ester and vegetable oils, with heating, at 80 ° C., until obtaining a homogeneous mixture, was introduced with stirring at a speed of 1500 rpm

the cream thus obtained was then cooled to 40 ° C. with stirring at 1500 rpm

 the active ingredients, for example the trace elements, the vitamin C derivative, as well as the perfume, the preservatives and the pH regulator, were then added.

From this base composition, for facial care, 6 different compositions were made by adding the different active ingredients in the proportions indicated in Table 2 below:

Table 2: percentage by weight of the compounds in the composition

Example 2 Example of a Cosmetic Composition for the Care of the Wives (Divine Gaze)

 A base composition described in Table 3 below was prepared by mixing different components:

 Table 3: Basic Composition for the Face (Gaze)

Quantity in% by weight

Ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition (%)

Alkyl polyglucoside 2-5

0.5-2 Shea butter

Caprylic caprylic triglycerides 1 -5

Ester 10-20

Vegetable oils 0.5-5

Glycerin 3-8

Carbomer 0.1 -0.5

Black wheat wax extract 0.1 -5

Ash extract 0.1 -5

Rose water 1 -10

Preservatives, antioxidants,

 pH regulator Qs

Water qs 100% The base composition was prepared according to the following method:

the glycerin was introduced into the water and mixed at 1500 rpm, and then the mixture was heated to 80 ° C.

 the gelling agent was dispersed in this mixture with stirring at 1500 rpm until dissolution.

 the oily phase prepared beforehand by mixing, for example emulsifier, shea butter, caprylic capric triglycerides, and vegetable oils, at 80 ° C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; was introduced with stirring at a speed of 1500 rpm

 the cream thus obtained was then cooled to 40 ° C. with stirring at 1500 rpm

 the active ingredients, for example, black buckwheat extract, ash extract, rose water, preservatives and pH regulator were then added.

From this basic composition, for the care of the eyes (Divine Gaze), 6 compositions were made by adding different assets in different quantities:

 Table 4: percentage by weight of the compounds in the composition

Exemple 3 : Exemple de composition cosmétique pour le soin du visage (Extrait Divin)

Example 3 Example of a Cosmetic Composition for Facial Care (Divine Extract)

 A base composition described in Table 5 below was prepared by mixing different components:

 Table 5: Basic composition for the face (Extract)

 The base composition was prepared according to the following method: the glycerin was introduced into the water and mixed at 1500 rpm, and then the mixture was heated to 80 ° C.

the gelling agents were dispersed in this mixture with stirring at 1500 rpm until dissolution. the oily phase previously prepared by mixing, for example with emulsifier, ester and vegetable oils, at 80 ° C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, was introduced with stirring at a temperature of speed of 1500 rpm

the cream thus obtained was then cooled to 40 ° C. with stirring at 1500 rpm

 the active ingredients, for example the vitamin C derivative, the trace elements as well as the perfume, the preservatives, the antioxidants and the pH regulator were then added.

From this basic composition, for facial care (Divine extract), 6 compositions were made by adding different active ingredients in different quantities:

Table 6: percentage by weight of the compounds in the composition

Example 4: Example of a cosmetic composition for the care of the face (Divine Lotion)

 A base composition described in Table 7 below was prepared by mixing different components:

 Table 7: Basic Composition for the Face (Lotion)

 The base composition was prepared according to the following method: the glycerine was introduced into the water and mixed at 1500 rpm, then the mixture was heated to 60 ° C

 the gelling agents were dispersed in this mixture with stirring at 1500 rpm until dissolution

 The mixture was cooled to 40 ° C. with stirring at 1500 rpm

the active ingredients, for example, the trace elements, the immortelle floral water as well as the perfume, the preservatives and the pH regulator were then added. From this basic composition, for the facial care (Divine Lotion), 6 compositions were made by adding different assets in different quantities:

Table 8:% by weight of the compounds in the composition

EXAMPLE 5 Anti-Aging Effect of the Composition of the Invention

 The purpose of these experiments was to validate ex vivo by transcriptomic analysis by DNA chips, the stimulation of the constitution proteins which have an action on the integrity of the corneocytes and the stimulation of the metabolism of the shingolipids by an example of composition according to the invention. invention.

 The transcriptome is the set of messenger RNAs, molecules that serve as a template for the synthesis of proteins, resulting from the expression of a part of the genome of a cellular tissue or a cell type. The characterization and quantification of the transcriptome in a given tissue and under given conditions made it possible to identify the active genes, to determine the mechanisms of regulation of gene expression and to define the expression networks of the genes. One of the techniques used to simultaneously measure the level of expression of a large number of different types of messenger RNA is that of the DNA chip as described in the publication of Seitz et al (Seitz G, Bonin M, Fuchs J et al Inhibition of glutathione-S-transferase as a treatment strategy for multidrug resistance in childhood rhabdomyosarcoma International Journal of Oncology 2010 36: 491-500 [2]). DNA microarrays can measure and visualize very quickly the differences in expression between genes at the level of a complete genome. 1. Material and method

 1 .1 Preparation of samples:

After carrying out a cell viability test, according to the method described in T. Mosmann's publication (Tim Mosmann, Rapid Colorimetric Assay for Cell Growth and Survival: Application to Proliferation and Cytotoxicity Assays, Journal of Immunological Methods Volume 65, Issues 1- 2, 16 December 1983 Pages 55-63 [8]) making it possible to determine for each extract the maximum non-toxic concentration diluted to be applied in vitro, skin explants from a patient's face lift were incubated independently in the presence of each extract or mixtures of 3 or 4 of them for 24 hours in DMEM (DulbeccoA / ogt modified Eagle's minimal essential medium) serum-free at 37 ° C in a humid atmosphere at 5% CO2. An untreated skin explant was incubated under the same conditions. Table 9 summarizes the concentrations applied for each extract.

 Table 9: non-toxic maximum concentrations expressed in% for myrtle essential oil, aqueous extract of immortelle, oily immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil and honey

1 .2 Extraction of total RNAs and linear amplification

After incubation, the skin explants were ground and the total RNAs from each explant were extracted using the RNeasy Kit (Qiagen, Hilden, Germany). The total RNAs were then quantified and then the quality was verified using the BlOanalyzer 2100 with the RNA 6000 Nano LabChip Kit (Agilent Technologies, Boblingen, Germany). An INR obtained between 7.5 and 10 attests to the good quality of the total RNAs from each explant previously incubated or not with myrtle essential oil, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of immortelle or a mixture thereof, or with a mixture comprising myrtle essential oil, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an immortelle essential oil or with a mixture comprising essential oil of myrtle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of immortelle and honey.

1 .3 Measurement of gene expression on an oligonucleotide chip and data acquisition:

 Oligonucleotide chips Affymetrix Human Gene 1 .0 ST Whole

Genome were used for each gene expression analysis

(GeneChip HU Gene 1 .0, Affymetrix, Santa Clara, USA).

 A complete documentation as well as the experimental protocol [8] is available on the site: http://media.affymetrix.com/support/technical/datasheets/gene_1_0_st_dat asheet.pdf.

More simply, the cycles of retrotranscription and amplification of the total RNAs in cRNA then in cDNA were carried out using the Ambion WT Expression kits (Ambion, Applied Biosystem, USA) and the GeneChip WT kit Terminal Labeling and Hybridization User ( Affymetrix). The hybridization of the chips and the measurements were carried out by Microarray Facility Tubingen. The chips were then scanned using the Gene Chip GCS3000 scanner (Affymetrix) and the GCOS 1 .4 software. The scanned images were then analyzed using the Expression 1 .0 console (Affymetrix) to convert light intensity measurements into digital data and to standardize this data. Comprehensive data analysis and statistical analysis were performed using Genespring GX 1 1 software (Agilent Technologies) based, in particular, on classification algorithms. Differences in gene expression thus obtained following the application of the different extracts and / or their mixture on skin explants compared to an untreated explant are collated in Tables 10, 11 and 12. The value of differentially expressed genes between untreated skin and treated skin has a p-value <0.01 (very significant statistical value).

 Table 10: Difference in gene expression and biological significance of the genes following incubation in the presence of the essential oil of myrtle

STATUS: stimulation

GENES db IS FUNCTIONS compared to untreated skin

CXCL1 (

 "Chemoki regulates cell traffic and the

 ne (C-X-C BT006880.1 signaling of different types of x 10 motif) leukocytes via G receptors.

 ligand 1 ")

CXCL2

("Chemoki regulates cellular traffic and

 NM 002089

 do (C-X-C signaling different types of x 8

 .3

 pattern) leukocytes via G receptors.

 ligand 2 ")

CXCL5

(«Chemoki

 NM 002994. Is a chemokine involved in

 do (C-X-C x 2.5

 3 neutrophil activation pattern)

ligand 5 ")

Les membres de la famille des

Members of the family of

 integrins are receptors

 ITGB3

 NM 000212. Membrane involved in (integrin x 4

 2 cell adhesion and resulting beta 3)

 various biological processes

 (Repair / immunity / embryogenesis)

ITGA5

 Forms a fibronectin receptor

("Integrin NM 002205.

 and is involved in signaling x 4 e alpha 2

 cell surface

 5 ")

S0D2

 This protein binds superoxides

("Superox

 from the oxidative phosphorilation ide BT006967.1 x 6 and converts them to oxygen and

dismutase

 hydrogen peroxide

 2 ")

UQCRB

("protein

link

 at

ubiquinol-cytochrom This protein binds ubiquinone which

 e c allows the transfer of electrons. It reductase M26700.1 plays an important role in hypoxia x 4 'ubiquinol induced angiogenesis through

 removal of reactive species to cytochrom oxygen

 e c

reductase

 binding

protein ")

TNF

 involved in regulating a

 (postman

 wide range of processes

 tumor

 NM 000594. biological, including necrotizing overgrowth x 4

 2 cell, differentiation,

 «Tumor

 apoptosis, lipid metabolism necrosis

factor ")

Cette enzyme élimine les

This enzyme eliminates

 GSTM1

 carcinogens, drugs

(glutathione

 therapeutic, toxins

 e S-BC036805.1 x 2.5 environementals, the compounds

transferas

 from oxidative stress in partnership e mu 1)

 with gluthation

This enzyme eliminates

 GSTM2

 carcinogens, drugs

(glutathione

 therapeutic, toxins

 e S- BT019947.1 x 2 environements, the compounds

transferas

 from oxidative stress in partnership e mu 2)

 with gluthation

PIGA

phosphatid

 ylinositol Protein required for glycan synthesis D1 1466.1 N-acetylglucosaminyl x 3 anchor phosphatidylinositol (GIcNAc-PI)

biosynthes

is, class A

 VLDLR

(receiver

 at

lipoprotein

 It plays a very important role in the

 low D16494.1 metabolism of triglycerides and in x 3 density the reeline signaling pathway

 «Very low

 density

lipoprotein

receptor ")

 FABP3

(protein 3

link

 Participates in the cellular capture, the

with acids

 NM 004102. Intracellular metabolism and / or fat x 2

 3 fatty acid transport at long

"Fatty acid

 chains.

 binding

 p rote in

3 ")

 In the above table, x N represents the multiplication factor stimulation compared to the untreated skin

 As demonstrated in Table 10 above, myrtle essential oil stimulates a large number of genes that may have effects, for example at tight junctions and / or at the level of cell detoxification.

Table 1 1: Gene expression difference following incubation in the presence of a mixture of essential oil of immortelle, aqueous extract of immortelle, oily extract of immortelle and essential oil of myrtle STATUS:

 stimulation

GENES dbEST FUNCTIONS compared to untreated skin

Involved in the

 terminal differentiation

 Late cornified keratinocytes and

 envelope 1 C NIVM 78351.3 constitute a family x 1 1 (LCE1 C) of proteins with

 others that make up

 stratum corneum

 Involved in the

 terminal differentiation

 keratinocytes and

 LCE2B NM_014357.4 constitute an x 30 family of proteins with

 others that make up

 stratum corneum

 Involved in the

 terminal differentiation

 keratinocytes and

 LCE2C NM_178429.2 constitute an X80 family of proteins with

 others that make up

 stratum corneum

 Involved in the

 SPRR2C late differentiation

 keratinocytes and

 (small protein 2C is a family of

 BC120937.1 x 22 proline-rich structural proteins

"Small proline-rich forming envelope

 protein 2C ") cornea with involucrine

 and loricrine

 Involved in the

 late differentiation

 SPRR2E

 keratinocytes and

 constitutes a family of

 (small protein 2E NM_001024209.2 x 20 structural proteins

 proline-rich

 forming the envelope

"Small proline-rich

 horny with involucrine

 protein 2E ")

and loricrine x 2 with the mixture extracted aqueous, oily and oil

Enzyme involved in

 essential the metabolism of

 immortelle sphingolipids,

 x 4 with the

SGPL1 important lipids

 NM_003901.3 mixture (sphingosine-1 - component complexes

 Phosphate lyase extract 1) Membranes

 Aqueous, cellular and space

 oily, intercornocytic

 essential oil of immortelle and essential oil of myrtle

PSAPL1

 NM_001085382.1 No function defined X 4,5 (prosaposin-like 1)

 Enzyme involved in

 the metabolism of

 SMPD3 sphingolipids,

 (sphingomyelin important lipids

 NM_018667.3 x 4.5 phosphodiesterase complex components

 3) the membranes

 cell and space

 intercornocyte

 Enzyme involved in

 the metabolism of

 sphingolipids

 important lipids

 ARV1 BC001977.1 x 2 component complexes

 the membranes

 cell and space

 intercornocyte

 ELOV1

 (protein 1

 Enzyme involved in

 elongation

 the metabolism of

 very long

 NM_001 146393.1 fatty acids with long x 2.5 chains of acids

 chains constituting

fat «Elongation

 cell membranes

of very long chain

fatty acids protein

1 ") In the above table, x N represents the multiplication factor of the stimulation compared to the untreated skin.

 As demonstrated in Table 1 above, the mixture of immortelle essential oil, aqueous immortelle extract, immortelle oily extract and myrtle essential oil stimulates the expression of genes encoding for :

 proteins constituting the stratum corneum which have an action on the integrity of the corneocytes, furthermore allowing smoothing of the skin on the surface via obtaining a more regular stratum corneum

 the metabolism of the sphingolipids which are involved in the cellular cohesion and advantageously allows a reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier.

 Thus, the composition of the invention advantageously makes it possible to reinforce the surface smoothing of the skin, to reinforce the barrier effect, to treat the effects of aging, for example by reducing wrinkles and by increasing the firmness and elasticity, while protecting the skin from external aggressions. Table 12: Difference in gene expression and biological significance of the genes following incubation in the presence of a mixture of essential oil of immortelle, aqueous extract of immortelle, oily extract of immortelle, of essential oil of myrtle and honey

STATUS: stimulation

GENES dbEST FUNCTIONS compared to untreated skin

This gene codes for a

 proteoglycan

 large size whose

 PRG4 proteoglycan function is the

 U70136.1 x 3 4 or lubricine cartilages, moisturize the

 extracellular matrix

 and maintain the elasticity

dermal This gene codes for a

 proteoglycan involved

 LUM Lumican NM_002345.3 in the organization of x 3 collagen fibers and

 their spacing

 This gene codes for

 a protein involved

 Speedy SPDYA BC093005.1 in the protection x 2 cell following

 DNA damage

 This gene codes for

 an enzyme involved

 EX01 exonuclease

 AF060479.1 in the repair of x 2 1

 the AND / mismatch repair

 and recombination

 In the abovementioned water table, x N represents the multiplication factor of the stimulation relative to the untreated skin.

 As demonstrated in Table 12 above, the mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of myrtle and honey advantageously allows to stimulate the expression genes encoding proteoglycan 4 thus reducing lines and wrinkles. Indeed, proteoglycans form a fundamental substance of the highly hydrated dermis. These molecules are charged, they are extremely hydrophilic and attract a large amount of water. They are structures, of variable size, very stretched, which occupy a considerable volume. They play a very important role in the filling of spaces thus allowing cell migration. The lubricine can be described as a kind of biological lubricant.

 A measure of the difference in gene expression was also carried out according to the above method with a mixture following the incubation in the presence of a mixture of essential oil of immortelle, aqueous extract of immortelle, d oily extract of immortelle. Table 13 below presents the results obtained and genes stimulated / overexpressed

Table 13: Difference in gene expression and biological significance of genes following incubation in the presence of an oil mixture essential of immortelle, aqueous extract of immortelle, oily extract of immortelle

Impliqué dans la

Involved in the

 differentiation

 late

 x 15 with the

SPRR2C keratinocytes and

 extracted mixture

(small protein constitutes a

 Aqueous, oily 2C rich in family of

 BC120937.1 and proline oil «small proteins

 essential proline-rich structural

 of immortelle protein 2C ") forming

 the horny envelope

 with involucrine

 and loricrine

 Involved in the

 differentiation

 X10 terminal with keratinocytes and extracted mixture constitute an aqueous, oily

LCE2A NM_178428.3

 family of and oil proteins with essential others that immortelle constitute stratum

 corneum

 Involved in the

 differentiation

 terminal of x 20 with keratinocytes and extracted mixture constitute an aqueous, oily

LCE2B NM_014357.4

 family of and protein oil with essential others that immortal constitute the

 stratum corneum

 Involved in the

 differentiation

 X-terminal with keratinocytes and extracted mixture constitute an aqueous, oily

LCE2D NM_178430.3

 family of and oil proteins with essential others that immortelle constitute stratum

 corneum

 x 2 with the extracted mixture

TGM1 Involved in the

 aqueous, oily (transglutamin NM_000359.2 multiplication

and ase oil 1) essential cell of immortelle X 4 with the extracted mixture

Involved in

 ELF3 E74-like aqueous, oily

 NM_001 1 14309.1 induction of factor 3 and oil

 SPRR2

 essential of immortal x 6 with the

Involved in the extracted mixture

CSTA development and aqueous, oily

 NM_005213.3

 (cystatin A) keeps it and oil

 the essential epidermis of immortelle

Enzyme involved

 in the

 metabolism of

 x 2 with the

SGPL1 sphingolipids,

 important lipid extract mixture

 ("Aqueous, oily sphingosine

 NM_003901.3 complex

 -1 -phosphate and oil

 constituents

 lyase 1 ") essential membranes

 immortal cell and

 spaces

 intercorneocytic

 x 2 with the extracted mixture

Involved in the

 Aqueous, oily TNXB

 NM_019105.6 maturation of the

 (tenascin XB) and oil

 matrix

 essential of immortelle

In the above table, x N represents the multiplication factor of the stimulation compared to the untreated skin.

 As demonstrated in Tables 11 and 13 above, the mixture comprising an immortelle essential oil, an aqueous immortelle extract, an immortelle oily extract and a myrtle essential oil stimulates the expression of genes. different from those stimulated by a mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle.

In addition, as shown in Table 1 with respect to Table 13, when the stimulated genes are identical, the mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle makes it possible to increase surprisingly the expression of the genes LCE2B, LCE2C and SPRR2C, and provides a higher cosmetic effect compared to the mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle.

 As demonstrated in Table 1, the mixture comprising immortelle essential oil, an aqueous immortelle extract, an immortelle oily extract and an essential oil of myrtle allows a synergistic stimulation of genes allowing the reduction of wrinkles. fine lines, an increase in skin smoothing, a strengthening of the skin barrier, an increase in skin firmness and elasticity and an increase in cellular repair mechanisms. In addition, the composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reinforce the surface smoothing of the skin, to reinforce the barrier effect, to treat the effects of aging, for example by reducing wrinkles and increasing firmness and elasticity. while protecting the skin from external aggressions.

 The mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of myrtle and honey also advantageously makes it possible to stimulate the expression of the genes coding for lumican which is a proteolytic to organize the collagen fibers and their spacing. Thus, the mixture advantageously allows to fight against skin aging. In particular, the mixture makes it possible to obtain a firmer and more elastic skin.

The mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of myrtle and honey also advantageously makes it possible to stimulate the expression of the genes coding for the SPDYA x2 protein which intervenes in the regulation of the cell cycle, that is cell division. It plays a key role in controlling normal cell growth and inhibiting cell death. So the mixture including a essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of myrtle and honey advantageously protects the skin cells from external aggressions, such as ultraviolet radiation.

 Finally, the mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily immortelle extract, an essential oil of myrtle and honey also advantageously makes it possible to stimulate the expression of the genes encoding the enzyme Exonuclease 1 EXO1 x2 which is involved in removing the altered parts of the DNA to prepare for its repair. Thus, the mixture advantageously makes it possible to stimulate the repair mechanisms of the cutaneous cells.

 As demonstrated in this example, in particular Tables 1 and 12 above, the mixture comprising an essential oil of immortelle, an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of myrtle and honey, allows a synergistic stimulation of genes allowing the reduction of wrinkles / fine lines, an increase in the smoothing of the skin, a reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier, an increase of the cutaneous firmness and elasticity and an increase of the cellular repair mechanisms.

Example 6 Test of Use and Efficacy of the Composition According to the Invention

 In order to validate the effectiveness and the anti-aging action of the composition of the invention, 50 women between 40 and 70 years old (average age is

64.7 years) were recruited for this study in order to test the anti-wrinkle / anti-aging activity and the toning effect of the composition as well as the cosmetic qualities of this composition. As a result, the composition was applied daily for 28 days by 50 women on the face and neck under normal conditions of use. All these volunteers had wrinkles / fine lines. In this example, the composition used was the composition 1 of example 1 above. This composition is referred to below as "Divine Cream".

 The process implemented is summarized in Table 14 below

 Table 14: Clinical Evaluation Procedure by the Dermatologist Investigator

 In Table 14 above:

 (1) indicates: right or left side according to randomization

 (2) Double entry IEC visual scale (number of wrinkles in 6 points and depth of wrinkles in 10 points), and

 (3) 1 = not / little and 9 = very much

 Table 15 Clinical Evaluation Procedure by the Dermatologist Investigator

 Area (s) Condition

 Criterion (s) Kinetics Principle (s) of the scoring

 Voluntary scale

 Photographic pose sitting in front of J0

 Lower part

 the oval of the Investigator (reference) of the face 6 grades (0 to 5 under and J28 face - visual), conditions

page 57 of controlled the Atlas of

 aging

 skin (2)

 Smooth appearance System of

 scoring in 9

 skin

 points

 (1 to 9 - visual)

 Radiance of the complexion

 (5)

 Whole face

 System of

 Number of scorings in 7

 spot of points

 (0 to 6 - visual)

pigmentation

 (3)

 System Intensity

 Scour spot in 9

the color of

 pigmentation points

 the stain of (1 to 9 - visual)

 selected

pigmentation (5)

 by

 Size of the Measure using

 investigator

 stain of a ruler

Dermatologist ' ⁴ '

pigmentation (mm)

 Firmness of

 System of

 skin scoring in 9

Density of the points

 Play (1) (1 to 9 - touch,

 skin

 to the pinch)

 Tonicity of

 (5)

 the skin

 In Table 15 above:

 (1) indicates right or left side according to randomization

 (2) Atlas of skin aging, Vol.1. European population, R. Bazin

& E. Doublet [9].

(3) Scoring system representing the percentage of the pigmented part of the face:

 0: No pigmentation spot 4: 50 to 69%

1: <10% 5: 70 to 89% 2: 10 to 29% 6: 90 to 100%

3: 30 to 49%

 (4) At OJ, selection by the Dermatologist Investigator of a significant pigmentation spot (color, size). In order to ensure a good repositioning at each time of the study, a transparent plastic mask is made.

 (5) 1 = not / little and 9 = very much

 In terms of anti-wrinkle performance, the overall results are shown in Table 16 below.

 Table 16: Anti-aging properties of the composition

In the table above "N" is the number of subjects

 "J0" is the first day of treatment,

"D28" is the 28 ^th day of treatment,

 "#" Is the variation from the initial values,

"Delta" is the difference (s) between the averages at the considered evaluation time (s) and the initial values,

 "P" corresponds to the statistical validity threshold, a value of p <0.05 is very significant; a value of p is close to the significance when 0.05 <p <0.10; a value of p> 0.10 is not significant. The statistical test used for this analysis is a Wilcoxon test.

 In terms of performance, the composition was recognized as being very effective by the users as shown in Table 17. After 1 and 4 weeks of use, the effects of the cosmetic composition according to the invention were also validated by the volunteers.

Table 17: Overall Judgment of Composition

APPLICATION

 The texture quickly penetrates 96%

The product leaves a non-greasy finish 92%

The product leaves a non-sticky finish 92%

IMMEDIATE RESULTS

 The skin is supple 98%

The skin is comfortable 98%

The skin is intensely nourished 94%

The skin reveals a new sweetness 96%

The skin has a silky touch 96%

The texture of the skin seems improved 81%

The skin is velvety 90%

The skin regains its luster 71%

The complexion is cooler 85%

The complexion is more uniform 67% The complexion is more rested 75%

The skin is more radiant 65%

The skin is sublimated 56%

The skin is plumper 52%

The skin looks smoother 75%

The skin is horn tightened 50%

The skin is firmer 52%

The skin is revitalized 65%

The skin is more toned 63%

AFTER 1 WEEK

 The skin is intensely nourished 94%

The skin reveals a new sweetness 98%

The skin has a silky touch 98%

The texture of the skin looks improved 94%

The skin is velvety 92%

The skin found is shine 85%

The complexion is fresher 88%

The complexion is more harmonious 85%

The complexion is more uniform 83%

The complexion is unified 85%

The complexion is clarified 92%

The skin is rid of its dull veil 85%

The skin is more radiant 85%

The skin texture seems refined 83%

The skin is more beautiful 83%

The skin is sublimated 67%

The skin is stretched 79%

The skin is more plump 71%

The skin is plumped 69%

The skin is smoother 81%

Wrinkles are visibly smoothed 71%

Wrinkles fill 65%

Deep wrinkles seem less pronounced 65% The skin regains its elasticity 79%

The skin is firmer 79%

The skin regains its tone 77%

The skin is more dense 71%

The skin regains consistency 65%

The skin is revitalized 88%

The skin is like restructured 63%

The substance of your skin is improved 83%

The firmness of the skin is restored 73%

The oval of the face is better drawn 60%

The contours of the face are better defined 63%

The volumes of the face are more harmonious 65%

The traits are enhanced 60%

The traits are like remodeled 60%

The skin behaves like a young skin 50%

The skin appears to be reprogrammed 58%

The skin regains its dynamism 65%

Your skin reacts again like a skin

 50% young

 Your skin seems to recover the characteristics of a young skin 50%

 50%

The skin reveals a new youth

 67%

The skin looks younger

 The product makes it possible to fight against the effects of

 75% time

 63%

You are told that you are not your age

 81%

Touch, you feel the difference

 You have noted the improvement in the state of your

 79% skin, both visible and tactile

 60%

You did not expect such a result

 65%

The speed of the results impressed you

 You noticed a marked improvement in appearance

 81% overall of your skin

 AFTER 4 WEEKS

 The skin is intensely nourished 92%

The skin reveals a new sweetness 96% The skin has a silky touch 96%

The texture of the skin seems improved 92%

The skin is velvety 96%

The skin found is brightness 92%

The complexion is cooler 85%

The complexion is more harmonious 85%

The complexion is more uniform 79%

The complexion is unified 79%

The complexion is clarified 85%

The pigment spots are faded 60%

The skin is rid of its dull veil 81%

The skin is more radiant 79%

The skin is sublimated 69%

The skin is stretched 75%

The skin is more plump 67%

The skin is plumped 69%

The skin is smoother 88%

Wrinkles are visibly smoothed 71%

Wrinkles fill up 67%

Deep wrinkles seem less pronounced 58%

The skin regains its elasticity 83%

The skin seems regenerated 85%

The skin regains its tone 79%

The skin is denser 73%

The skin regains consistency 77%

The skin is revitalized 85%

The skin is firmer 75%

The skin is like restructured 71%

The substance of your skin is improved 83%

The firmness of the skin is restored 73%

The oval of the face is better drawn 60%

The contours of the face are better defined 63%

The volumes of the face are more harmonious 65% The traits are enhanced 60%

 The traits are like remodeled 60%

The skin behaves like a young skin 50%

The skin appears to be reprogrammed 58%

The skin regains its dynamism 65%

Your skin reacts again like a skin

 50%

 young

 Your skin seems to recover the characteristics

 a young skin 50%

 50%

 The skin reveals a new youth

 67%

 The skin looks younger

 The product makes it possible to fight against the effects of

 75%

 time

 63%

 You are told that you are not your age

 81%

 Touch, you feel the difference

 You have noted the improvement in the state of your

 skin,

 79%

 to the sight as to the touch

 60%

 You did not expect such a result

 65%

 The speed of the results impressed you

 You noticed a marked improvement in appearance

 81%

 general of your skin

The composition has therefore been recognized as being very efficient by the users. After 4 weeks of use, the actions claimed on the active complex are validated by the volunteers as shown in Table 17 above.

 The composition was therefore recognized as being very effective by users after 4 weeks of applications.

 The composition comprising the mixture of the aqueous extract, oily and essential oil of immortelle and the essential oil of myrtle has therefore been recognized as being very effective by the users after 4 weeks of applications.

Example 7 Test of the Composition According to the Invention In order to validate the effectiveness and the moisturizing action of a composition according to the invention, 10 women between 26 and 70 years old (average age is 56 years old) were recruited for this study in order to test the efficacy. and the moisturizing action at 24 hours of the composition as well as the cosmetic qualities of this composition. As a result, the composition was applied to one of the two zones of 20cm ² delimited on the forearms of the volunteers. The amount applied was 2 mg / cm ² or 40 mg.

 The area on which no composition was applied served as control.

 A measurement of the electrical capacitance of the skin at three different locations on the skin was performed by a corneometer, the CN 825 corneometer (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH).

 The measurements were made at application (T0), 2 hours (T2), 8 hours (T8) and 24 hours (T24) after application.

 The moisturizing effect of the tested composition was evaluated by calculating the average variation of the capacitance according to the following formula

 Mean variation = [((Tx hours -T0) / T0) x100] processed - [((Tx hours - T0) / T0) x100] control

 where x is the hour after application.

 Table 18 shows the capacitance measurements at different times.

 Table 18: Measurement of capacitance

 Zone Control Zone Treated

 Deviation Deviation

Average Average

 standard standard

Initial measurement (T0) 32.1 4.6 33.1 3.1

Measure at 2 o'clock

 32.1 4.0 46.0 5.9 (T2)

 Measure at 8 o'clock

 32.0 4.7 45.7 8.7 (T8)

Measure at 24 hours 32.3 4.5 39.5 4.1

Table 19 shows the difference in electrical capacitance with respect to the initial measurement.

 Table 19: Variation of capacitance over time

The results obtained showed a statistical increase of 39% in hydration at 2 hours, 38% at 8 hours and 19% at 24 hours.

 As demonstrated in this example, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to have a moisturizing effect on the epidermis, in particular a moisturizing effect for 24 hours after application.

Example 8 Test of Use and Efficacy of a Composition and a Combination of Compositions According to the Invention

In order to validate the effectiveness of a composition of the invention or of a combination of compositions according to the invention, 54 women between 41 and 67 years old (average age is 57 years old) were recruited for this study. in order to test the cosmetic qualities of a composition according to the invention or a mixture of compositions according to the invention. In this example, the compositions used were composition 1 of example 1 and composition 1 of example 3 above. These compositions are respectively referred to below as "Divine Cream" and "Divine Extract". As a result, Divine Cream or the combination "Divine Cream" and "Divine Extract" were applied independently 2 times daily for 28 days by the 54 women half of the face under normal conditions of use. The volunteers had wrinkles / fine lines / spots or relaxed skin.

 In terms of performance, the composition has been recognized as having an anti-aging effect and cosmetically effective by users as shown in Table 20:

 Table 20:

 Texture and perfume

 The combination of products leaves a no

 100%

 tights

 The combination of products leaves no doubt

 94%

 stuffed on the skin

 Cream Combination only cream extract

At the application

 The skin seems nourished 94% 93%

 The skin is comfortable 98% 96%

 The complexion lights up 76% 81%

 Wrinkles are filled 54% 61%

 The skin appears to be plumped 63% 67%

 The skin looks visibly younger 61% 61%

 After 7 days

 The complexion is radiant 83% 83%

 Wrinkles seem smoothed 72% 80%

The skin is plump 61% 70% The skin is firmer 74% 83%

The oval of the face is redrawn 54% 63%

 After 4 weeks

 The texture of the skin seems visibly improved 93% 94%

The complexion is bright 89% 89%

Stains are dimmed 54% 63%

The spots are corrected 43% 50%

The complexion is standardized 80% 87%

The skin is more beautiful 89% 93%

The complexion is more harmonious 89% 89%

The skin is smoother 89% 87%

Wrinkles are reduced 70% 80%

Wrinkles are filled 50% 59%

Wrinkles are corrected 52% 63%

Expression lines seem reduced 67% 74%

Deep wrinkles seem less marked 56% 63%

Skin is firmer 87 %% 91%

The skin is denser 80% 85%

The skin is tightened 74% 87%

The overall architecture of the face is like

 52% 63% restored

 The skin seems plumped, plump 78% 80%

Outlines are like remodeled 52% 67%

The volumes of the face are more harmonious 80% 89%

The oval of the face is redrawn 76% 81%

Skin slackening is reduced 83% 83%

The skin is sublimated, more beautiful 67% 72% The skin is like regenerated 72% 80%

 Serum seems to have doubled anti-aging efficiency 80%

 Serum seems to have increased anti-aging efficiency 65%

 Serum enhanced anti-aging efficiency 83%

 Serum enhanced firmness effectiveness 83%

 Serum boosted efficiency glow 80%

 Serum enhanced anti-stain efficiency 61%

 The combination resulted in 76% faster anti-aging results

 The combination resulted in 74% more visible anti-aging results

 Serum boosts overall anti-aging corrective action 80%

 The skin is more beautiful with the combination 83%

As demonstrated in this example, the composition according to the invention or a mixture of compositions according to the invention makes it possible to have an anti-aging effect, a lightening effect of the complexion, and an anti-cutaneous effect, while moisturizing the skin. 'epidermis.

Example 9 Test of Use and Efficacy of a Composition According to the Invention

 In order to validate the effectiveness and the anti-aging action of the composition of the invention, 51 women between 40 and 70 years old (average age is 57 years old) were recruited for this study in order to test the anti-wrinkle / anti-aging activity and the tolerance of the composition as well as the cosmetic qualities of this composition. As a result, the composition was applied twice daily for 56 days to the face and neck, with the exception of the eye contour, under normal conditions of use. All these volunteers had wrinkles / fine lines.

The composition used was Composition 1 of Table 6. This composition is referred to below as "Divine Extract". For the effectiveness of the composition, an evaluation was conducted on the first day, 28 ^th day and 56 ^th day according to the following scoring:

 • Wrinkles or fine lines on the crow's feet: 0 = no wrinkles, 6 = many wrinkles

 · Black dots: 0 = wide, 9 = small

 • Intensity of the color of the spots: 0 = black, 9 = clear

 • Uniqueness of the complexion: 0 = not uniform, 9 uniform

 • Skin sagging

 o 0 = non-dense skin, 9 = dense skin

 o 0 = non-firm skin, 9 = firm skin

 o 0 = non-toned skin, 9 = toned skin

 • Main Ride 6 = deep, 0 = thin line

 A significant improvement of the uniqueness of the complexion: + 19,18% after 28 days, + 29,17% after 56 days, the firmness of the skin: + 17,05% after 28 days and the tone of the skin; + 17.05% were observed.

 In terms of performance, the composition has been recognized as being effective by users as shown in Table 21:

 Table 21: Overall Judgment of Composition

 Texture and perfume

 100%

 The texture is fresh

 98%

 The texture is velvety

 100%

 The texture is melting

 96%

 The fragrance is natural

 At the application

 100%

 The product penetrates quickly

 92%

 The product leaves a non-sticky finish

 100%

 The product leaves a non-greasy finish

 100%

The application provides a feeling of freshness Immediate effect

 100%

The skin is velvety

 96%

The skin is radiant

 94%

The complexion lights up

 78%

Wrinkles seem to fade

 94%

The skin seems smoothed

 88%

The skin seems retightened

 90%

The skin is plumped

 86%

The skin is filled

 86%

The skin is sublimated

 80%

The skin is like transformed

 80%

The damage caused by time seems

attenuated

After 7 days

88%

The appearance of the skin seems visibly improved

 90%

The complexion is radiant

 72%

The spots seem to fade

 90%

The complexion seems standardized

 88%

The complexion finds brightness and transparency

 82%

Wrinkles are faded

 76%

Wrinkles seem reduced

 86%

The skin seems firmer

 84%

The skin is plump

 78%

The overall architecture of the face is as restored

 80%

The contours of the face are as redefined

 78%

The oval of the face is redrawn 82%

The skin is sublimated

 78%

The skin seems to be changing

 94%

The skin is more beautiful

 84%

The skin looks younger

 After 4 weeks

 100%

The skin is velvety

 98%

The complexion is brighter

 92%

The spots are faded

 96%

The complexion is unified

 94%

The complexion finds brightness and transparency

 96%

Wrinkles seem reduced

 92%

Expression lines seem reduced

 98%

The skin seems firmer

 98%

The skin is denser

 96%

Skin slackening is reduced

 94%

The overall architecture of the face is as restored

 94%

The fineness of the features seems redefined

 90%

The oval is redrawn on the face

 94%

The skin seems to be changing

 94%

A new impulse of youth seems to come from the very heart of your skin

 94%

All signs of age are attenuated

 96%

The skin looks younger

 After 8 weeks

 100%

The complexion is bright

 84%

The spots are corrected

 94%

The complexion is unified 94%

 The complexion is more harmonious

 92%

 The complexion finds brightness and transparency

 90%

 Wrinkles are corrected

 92%

 Expression lines seem reduced

 84%

 Deep wrinkles seem reduced

 96%

 The skin is firmer

 92%

 The skin is denser

 90%

 The overall architecture of the face is as restored

 90%

 The contours of the face are as redefined

 88%

 Outlines are like remodeled

 88%

 The oval is redrawn on the face

 90%

 The skin is sublimated

 86%

 The skin seems to be changing

 92%

 The skin looks younger

 92%

 The skin appears plumped

 90%

 Skin slackening is reduced

 82%

 A new impulse of youth comes from the heart

 even of your skin

 86%

 The skin is visibly younger

 88%

 You are told that you are not your age

 96%

 Touch, you feel the difference

 82%

 You became very attached ("addict") to

 product

 86%

 You feel younger

 84%

 You noticed a marked improvement in appearance

 general of your skin

As demonstrated in this example, the composition has therefore been recognized as being very efficient by the users. After 7 days, 4 and 8 weeks of use, the claimed actions on the active complex were validated by volunteers as shown in Table 20 above.

Moreover, the moisturizing effect of composition 1 of Table 6 over 24 hours was also tested. 12 women between 33 and 69 years old with dry skin and with a corneometric index equal to 25.03 ua were recruited. As a result, 0.07 ml of composition was applied to a surface of 35 cm ² of the skin. A comparison was made between the skin surface on which the composition was applied vs. a similar skin surface without application of the composition.

 A measurement of the electrical capacitance of the skin at three different locations on the skin was performed by a corneometer, the CN 825 corneometer (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH).

 The measurements were made at application (T0), 2 hours (T2), 8 hours (T8) and 24 hours (T24) after application.

 The results of variation of the hydration as a function of time and the zone treated or not are represented in Table 22 below:

 Table 22: variation of hydration as a function of time

Tel que démontré dans cet exemple, une composition selon l'invention permet en outre d'augmenter significativement l'hydratation de la peau sur 24 heures par rapport à une peau non traitée. Exemple 10 : Test d'usage d'une composition selon l'invention

As demonstrated in this example, a composition according to the invention also makes it possible to significantly increase the hydration of the skin over 24 hours compared with untreated skin. Example 10 Test of Use of a Composition According to the Invention

 In order to validate the effectiveness and the anti-aging action of the composition of the invention, 52 women between 41 and 70 years old (mean age 62 years old) were recruited for this study in order to test the anti-wrinkle / anti-aging activity and the tolerance of the composition as well as the cosmetic qualities of this composition. As a result, the composition was applied twice a day for 28 days to the face and neck using a cotton pad, except for the eye area, under normal conditions of use. All these volunteers had wrinkles / fine lines.

 The composition used was composition 1 of Table 8. This composition is referred to below as "Divine lotion".

 In terms of cosmetic quality and efficacy, the composition has been recognized as being effective by the users as shown in Table 23:

 Table 23: Overall Judgment of Composition

 Texture and perfume

 98%

 The texture is fresh

 96%

 The texture has an enveloping freshness

 96%

 The texture offers a comfort veil

 92%

 The scent is nice

 94%

 The fragrance is natural

 96%

 The texture is rich

 At the application

 100%

 The product is easily applied

 100%

 The product penetrates quickly

 94%

 The product leaves a non-sticky finish

 100%

 The product leaves a non-greasy finish

 90%

 The product instantly delivers comfort and

 intense wellbeing

 94%

The application provides a feeling of freshness 96%

The skin is balanced

 96%

The skin is refreshed

 96%

The skin is toned

 98%

The skin is softer

 92%

The skin seems hydrated

 94%

The skin regains a delicious sensation of

flexibility

 96%

The complexion seems cooler

 92%

The skin seems more energetic

 90%

The skin seems brighter

 92%

The complexion lights up

 96%

The skin texture seems smoother

 96%

The skin looks smoother

 90%

The features seem visibly smoothed

 87%

The skin appears plumped

 92%

The texture of the skin seems visibly improved

 98%

The skin seems better prepared to receive the other treatments you use

 96%

The skin is ideally prepared to receive the

benefits of your daily care

 7 days

 100%

The balance of the skin is maintained

 94%

The skin is more velvety

 94%

The skin is soft and hydrated

 98%

The skin is hydrated

 79%

The skin is intensely hydrated

 90%

The skin is fortified

 96%

The skin is supple 88%

The skin offers an incredible feeling of flexibility

 94%

The skin is more toned

 90%

The features are smoothed

 85%

The complexion is more radiant

 92%

The complexion seems unified

 88%

The complexion is more harmonious

 90%

The skin texture is refined

 94%

The skin is smoother

 79%

The skin appears refreshed and relipidée

 83%

The skin seems firmer

 81%

The skin is tightened

 85%

The skin looks more beautiful

 75%

The skin is sublimated

 83%

The skin regains its dynamism

 94%

The skin is ideally prepared to receive the

benefits of your daily care

 92%

The product optimizes the benefits of the other treatments you use

 4 weeks

 96%

The balance of the skin is preserved

 92%

The skin is infinitely velvety

 92%

The skin is infinitely soft

 85%

The skin is intensely hydrated

 92%

The skin is more resistant

 88%

The complexion is radiant

 83%

The complexion is more harmonious

 85%

The complexion finds brightness and transparency 79%

 The skin radiates youth

 87%

 The skin texture is refined

 87%

 The appearance of pores is reduced

 94%

 The skin is smoother

 90%

 The complexion is more toned

 88%

 The features are visibly smoothed

 79%

 The skin appears refreshed and relipidée

 81%

 The skin is tightened

 77%

 The skin finds firmness and elasticity

 67%

 The oval is redrawn on the face

 79%

 The skin is sublimated

 62%

 The skin looks metamorphosed

 75%

 The skin is more beautiful

 71%

 The skin looks younger

 63%

 An impulse seems to come from the very heart of the skin

 69%

 The quality of the skin is like transformed

 65%

 The skin appears regenerated from the inside

 65%

 All the signs of age seem attenuated

As demonstrated in this example and in Table 23, the tested composition has therefore been recognized as being very effective by the users. After 7 days and 4 weeks of use, the claimed actions on the active complex were validated by volunteers as shown in Table 23 above. Bibliographical references

 1. Koblenzer CS. Psychology aspects of aging and the skin. Dermatol Clinics 1996; 14: 171 -7

 2. Seitz G, Bonin M, Fuchs J et al. Inhibition of glutathione-S-transferase as a treatment strategy for multidrug resistance in childhood rhabdomyosarcoma. International Journal of Oncology 2010 36: 491-500

 3. Pierard GE. The when of climacteric skin aging. Dermatology 1996; 193: 273-4

4. Petersen MJ, Hansen C, Craig S. Ultraviolet A irradiation stimulates collagenase production in cultured human fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol 1992; 99: 440-4

 5. West MD. The cellular and molecular biology of skin aging. Arch dermatol 1994; 130: 87-95

6. Harvell JD, Maibach Hl. Percutaneous absorption and inflammation in aged skin: a review. J Am Acad Dermatol 1994; 31: 1015-21

7. Grove GL, Kligman AM. Age-associated changes in human epidermal cell renewal. J Gerontol 38: 137-42

 8. Tim Mosmann. Rapid colorimetric assay for cell growth and survival: Application to proliferation and cytotoxicity assays. Journal of Immunological Methods Volume 65, Issues 1-2, 16 December 1983 Pages 55-63

 9. Atlas of skin aging, Vol.1. European population, R.

 Bazin & E. Doublet.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of immortelle, an oily extract of immortelle, an essential oil of immortelle and an essential oil of myrtle. 2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the concentration of the aqueous extract of immortelle is from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the concentration of oily extract of immortelle is from 0.001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the essential oil concentration of immortelle is from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the concentration of essential oil of myrtle is 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises honey. 7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the honey is spring honey from Corsica. 8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7 wherein the honey concentration is 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises a hydroglycerine extract of clover water. 10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the concentration of the hydroglycerine extract of water clover is 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 1 1. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises a hyaluronic acid derivative. 12. Composition according to claim 1 1, wherein the concentration of the hyaluronic acid derivative is from 0.001 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises an extract of Bellis Perennis. 14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the concentration of the Bellis Perennis extract is 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises at least one oil selected from evening primrose vegetable oil, borage, echium and / or camelina. 16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, said composition being in a form selected from the group comprising a cream, a milk, a lotion, a gel, a serum, an ointment. 17. A method of anti-aging cosmetic care comprising a step of applying to the skin of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16.