Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/26—Optical properties

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of hair care. More specifically, the present invention relates to a pearlescent conditioning composition, and a method for preparing the same.
• hair conditioner is recommended for the treatment of damaged hair which has been sensitized (i.e., damaged and/or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agent or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or permanent waving operations. When damaged, the hair is often difficult to disentangle, and lack softness. It is well known in the art to use hair conditioner in compositions for washing or caring for hair in order to facilitate disentangling of the hair and to achieve the soft and shiny effect.
• US 6,521 ,238 claims a cosmetic composition comprising at least one surfactant base, at least one fatty alcohol with 22 carbon atoms, and at least one additional ingredient chosen from opacifiers and pearlescent agents which are mainly chosen from either fatty dialkyl ether or thioether family.
• U.S. 4,777,039 contains a proportion of a straight-chain fatty alcohol with carbon atoms from 14 to 18, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (CMEA) and cationic compounds.
• CMEA coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide
• Conventional method to produce pearlescent hair shampoo is a method using pearlescent materials such as glycol monofatty acid ester, that are solid at room temperature. These materials are heated to above their melting points and added to the preparation of ingredients of the conditioner; upon cooling, a pearlescent luster appears in the resulting composition.
• this method can have disadvantages as the entire conditioning composition needs to be heated to a temperature corresponding to the melting temperature of the pearlescent material.
• An alternative and widely-adopted method known for the shampoo preparation consists of incorporating organic pearlescent agents into a composition as a pre-crystallized organic pearlescent dispersion. This method is known to those skilled in the art as "cold pearlescent agent”.
• the objective of the current invention is to provide a pearlescent conditioning composition and a method for preparing said pearlescent conditioning composition.
• the present invention provides a pearlescent conditioning composition
• a pearlescent conditioning composition comprising:
• the present invention provides a pearlescent conditioning composition further comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.
• the present invention provides a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition, comprising the steps of:
• the present invention provides a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition, further comprising the step e) of mixing the mixture obtained from step d) with at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.
• At least one second conditioning agent is mixed in step a).
• Fig. 1 a shows the photo of pearlescent conditioner of example 1 , exhibiting apparent crystals under microscope.
• Fig. 1 b shows the photo of pearlescent conditioner of comparative conditional example 1 , exhibiting no crystal under microscope.
• fatty alcohol used herein is intended to mean R-OH (formula (I)), in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 22 to 40 and preferably from 22 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C 2 2-C 40 and preferably C 2 2-C 24 alkyl or a C 2 2-C 40 and preferably 022-0 24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups.
• the fatty alcohol contains at least one fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms.
• An example of such a fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol or isobehenyl alcohol.
• the composition of the invention can contain a mixture of fatty alcohols.
• the fatty alcohols other than the one with the alkyl chain having at least 22 carbon atoms may contain from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18-22 carbon atoms.
• Examples of fatty alcohol other than behenyl alcohol that can be present in the composition are for example cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty alcohol with a fatty chain having at least 22 carbon atoms represents at least 50 % by weight of the total weight of all the fatty alcohol in the composition, more particularly at least 70% by weight.
• Nafol 1822 C is referenced as behenyl alcohol in the Seventh Edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Volume 1 , page 123 and is defined to be a mixture of fatty alcohols containing chiefly n-docosanol, a C 22 alcohol.
• Another commercial product that can be used in the composition of the invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF) that contains behenyl alcohol.
• Another representative mixture of fatty alcohols is the product sold under the name Nafol 2298 by the company Condea, which contains 98% C22 alcohol.
• Ci 6 and C 24 fatty alcohols each represent less than 2% by weight, and the Ci 8 fatty alcohols represent less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the alcohol mixture.
• the C 22 alcohol is at least 50% of the mixture of alcohols.
• the amount of the fatty alcohol having a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms can vary largely. According to a preferred embodiment, the C 22 fatty alcohol is present in amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition.
• said at least one fatty alcohol containing at least 22 carbon atoms is present in amount ranging from 3% to 10%, more preferably 3% to 5% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition.
• fatty amide used herein is intended to mean an amide obtained from a fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
• the fatty amide can be a fatty acid monoalkanol amide or fatty acid dialkanol amide of formula (II):
• Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 26 carbon atoms
• R 2 is hydrogen, or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol group
• R 3 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol group.
• Ri is a fatty acid group having 12 to 22, even more preferably 1 6 to 18 carbon atoms
• R 2 is hydrogen, or an alkanol group
• R 3 is a alkanol group.
• R 2 is hydrogen, or an alkyl group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms
• R 3 is an alkyl group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
• R 2 is hydrogen, an ethanol group, a propanol group, or a isopropanol group
• R 3 is an a ethanol group, a propanol group, or a isopropanol group.
• More specific examples include lauric acid monoethanolamide, lauric acid diethanolamide, lauric acid monopropanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, myristic acid diethanolamide, palmitic acid monoethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (stearamide MEA), oleic acid monoethanolamide, oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), coconut oil fatty acid monopropanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, palm vegetable oil fatty acid monoethanolamide, or a combination thereof.
• coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide is preferable.
• Such coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA) are, in particular, the products sold, as mentioned above, under the name COMPERLAN 100 by the company COGNIS (BASF).
• the fatty amide is present in amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition. More particularly, said at least one fatty amide is present in amount ranging from 3% to 10%, more preferably 3% to 5% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition.
• the alkylpolyglycoside may be represented more particularly by the following general formula (III):
• R represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms
• R 5 represents an alkylene radical comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms
• G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
• t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4
• v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
• Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R more particularly denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
• the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v in formula, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
• the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1 .1 to 1 .5.
• the glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.
• Compounds of formula (III) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 1 10 (or Oramix CG 1 10) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK. It is also possible to use, for example, the C8/C1 6 alkyl 1 ,4-polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
• the alkylpolyglycosides are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10 % by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the conditioning agent of the current invention refers to ingredients that enhance the appearance and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment.
• the conventional hair conditioning agents are well adapted to the current invention.
• Such conditioning agents include non-silicone cationic surfactants, non-silicone cationic polymers, silicones, fatty esters, and other ingredients which are known in the art as having desirable hair conditioning properties.
• non-silicone cationic surfactant means a surfactant having no silicone atoms in its structure and positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention.
• Non-silicone surfactants may be chosen from:
• X-i " is an anion selected from the group of the halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or (C 2 -C 6 )alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, anions derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate,
• the radicals R 6 to R 8 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl.
• the aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens.
• the aliphatic radicals are for example selected from alkyl, alkoxy, and alkylamide radicals,
• R 9 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the non-silicone cationic surfactant is preferably a behenyltri-ammonium salt, for example, behenyltri-ammonium chloride, or cetrimonium salt, for example, cetrimonium chloride.
• the radicals R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl.
• the aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens.
• the aliphatic radicals are for example selected from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide, and hydroxyalkyl radicals, containing approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 8 and R 9 , which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function.
• R 8 and R 9 are selected in particular from (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl-amido(C 2 -C 6 )alkyl and (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl acetate radicals;
• the non-silicone cationic surfactant is preferably a stearamido- propyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt (for example, chloride).
• R 0 represents an alkyi or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, fatty acid derivatives of tallow
• R-n represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC 4 alkyi radical or an alkyi or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• R-12 represents a CrC 4 alkyi radical
• R-13 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC 4 alkyi radical
• X 2 " is an anion selected from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyi sulfates, alkyi- or alkylaryl-sulfonates.
• R1 0 and Rn denote a mixture of alkyi or alkenyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, Ri 2 denotes methyl, R 3 denotes hydrogen.
• a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "REWOQUAT” W 75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG by the company WITCO, or Quaternium-87 under the name "VARISOFT W 575 PG N" sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
• 4 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms
• R15, R 6, R17, R s, and R19, identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
• X 3 " is an anion selected from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, and methyl sulfates.
• Quaternary diammonium salts of this kind include in particular propanetallowdiammonium dichloride.
• R 2 o is selected from CrC 6 alkyl radicals and CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
• R21 is selected from: o - the radical R 2 c
• R 23 is selected from:
• R22, R24, and R 26 are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 2 i hydrocarbon radicals; n, p, and r, identical or different, are integers with a value of from 2 to 6; y is an integer with a value of from 1 to 10;
• x and z are integers with a value of from 0 to 10;
• X 4 " is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
• R 20 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
• x and y are equal to 1 ;
• z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
• n, p, and r equal to 2;
• R 2 1 is selected from:
• R22, R24 and R 2 6, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 2 1 hydrocarbon radicals;
• R23 is selected from:
• non-silicone cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition of the invention include cetyl triammonium, behenyl triammonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, methyl (C9-C19)alkyl, (C10-C20)alkyl amidoethylimidazolium, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine salts, a salt of stearamidopropyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
• the cationic surfactant is the chloride and bromide salts of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium.
• cetrimonium chloride is preferable.
• cetrimonium chloride is, in particular, the products sold, as mentioned above, under the name DEHYQUART A OR by the company COGNIS (BASF).
• the non-silicone cationic surfactant range from1 % to 5% by weight of total weight of the pearlescent conditioning composition, preferably from 2% to 3% by weight.
• Non-silicone cationic polymers
• non-silicone cationic polymer means a polymer having no silicon atoms in its structure, charged positively when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This polymer may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention.
• the non-silicone cationic polymer or polymers that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention are preferably selected from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly bonded thereto, and having a molecular weight (MW) in the range 500 to approximately 5,000,000, preferably in the range 1000 to 3,000,000.
• the conditioning agent is a non-silicone cationic polymer
• it is preferably selected from those containing motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent bonded directly thereto.
• non-silicone cationic polymers that may be mentioned are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, and quaternary polyammonium type. They are described, for example, in French patents numbers 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
• copolymers of family (1 ) that may be mentioned include:
• cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1 -C4)alkyl (C1 -C4)trialkyl ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by cross-linking with a compound containing an olefinically unsaturated bond, in particular methylene bis-acrylamide.
• an acrylamide /methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride cross-linked polymer (20/80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
• This dispersion is sold under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the supplier CIBA.
• a cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride for example in dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
• polymers constituted by piperazinyl motifs and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or aromatic or heterocyclic cycles as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of said polymers.
• Such polymers are in particular described in French patents 2 1 62 025 and 2 280 361 ;
• polyaminoamides that are soluble in water prepared, in particular, by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-un saturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound that is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the cross-linking agent is used in proportions of 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is in the range 0.8: 1 to 1 .4; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorhydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorhydrin to the second amine group of the polyaminoamide in the range 0.5:1 to 1 .8:1 .
• Such polymers are described in particular in American patents US 3 227 615 and US 2 961 347;
• Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the trade name "Hercosett 57” by the supplier Hercules Inc. or under the trade name “PD 170” or “Delsette 101 " by the supplier Hercules for an adipic acid /epoxypropyl /diethylene-triamine copolymer.
• alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406;
• polymers as defined above are the dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the trade name "Merquat 100" by the supplier NALCO (and its homologs with low mass average molecular weights) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the trade name "MERQUAT 550".
• polymers constituted by recurring motifs with the following formula may be used:
• R 2 s, R29, R30 and R31 which may be identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radical containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers in the range approximately 2 to 20 and, X 5 " is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid.
• Quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as the products provided under the trade names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370 by the supplier B.A.S.F, for example;
• Cationic polysaccharides in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
• cationic polysaccharides that may be mentioned are derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
• Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in the patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyi celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, or dimethyl-diallylammonium salt.
• the non-silicone cationic polymer is polyguaternium-10.
• Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
• guar gums modified by a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium may be used.
• cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium motifs, condensates of polyamines and epichlorhydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives.
• Particular examples of cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are chemically modified polypeptides carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the chain end or grafted thereto. Their molecular mass may, for example, be from 1500 to 10,000, in particular from approximately 2000 to 5000.
• these compounds that may be mentioned are as follows:
• these polypeptides are of vegetable origin. The following may in particular be mentioned:
• Examples of these products that may be mentioned include the products provided by the supplier COGNIS under the trade name GLUADIN WQ, by the supplier CRODA under the trade names HYDROTRITICUM WQ PE or CROQUAT SOYA.
• non-silicone cationic polymers that could be used in the context of the present invention are cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the trade names "MERQUAT 100", “MERQUAT 550” and “MERQUAT S” by the supplier NALCO, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers and cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
• Non-limiting examples of silicones that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention that may be mentioned are:
• This type of silicone includes:
• VOLATILE SILICONE 7207® by the supplier UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V2@” by the supplier RHONE POULENC
• the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158®” by the supplier UNION CARBIDE
• "SILBIONE 70045 V5@” by the supplier RHONE POULENC and also their mixtures.
• Cyclopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane /methylalkylsiloxane type such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109®” sold by the supplier UNION CARBIDE, which is a dimethylsiloxane /methyloctylsiloxane cyclocopolymer, may also be mentioned;
• polyalkylsiloxanes are principally constituted by polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes, and also their mixtures. They may be in the form of oils, gums or resins.
• silicones may also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.
• Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes of the invention are:
• non-volatile silicones selected from the polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups such as oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m2/s to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, for example oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 series, more particularly 70,047 V 500,000 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE, polydialkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE; and ⁇ polysiloxanes with amine groups such as aminodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
• oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m2/s to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C for example oils from the DC200 series from DO
• the viscosities of the silicones may in particular be determined using the standard ASTM D445-97 (viscometry).
• the silicones of the current invention are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, PEG-12 dimethicone, Divinyl dimethicone, cyclomethicones and aminofunctional silicones, and more specifically products available under the trade name ABILQUAT ex Goldschmidt, or under the trade name BELSIL ADM ex Warker.
• these silicone materials are incorporated in the compositions as small droplets, preferably of droplet size smaller than 0.1 microns, more preferably smaller than 0.1 microns, most preferably smaller than 0.035 microns.
• the conditioning agent when it is a fatty ester, it may either be an ester of a C 8 -C 3 o fatty acid and CrC 3 o monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C 8 -C 3 o fatty acids and C 8 -C 3 o fatty alcohols, or an ester of a C-1 -C7 dibasic acid and a C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohol.
• esters examples include ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl and 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty esters of the current invention can be cetyl ester, which is available under the trade name CRODAMOL ex Croda.
• the composition of the invention contains at least one conditioning agents, preferably selected from silicone or fatty ester.
• compositions of the invention is up to 20% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the current invention contains from 5% to 20% by weight of behenyl alcohol, from 5% to 15% by weight of fatty amide, preferably fatty acid monoethanolamide, from 5% to 15% by weight of alkyl polyglucoside, and from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of conditioning agent, preferably non-silicone cationic surfactant.
• compositions of the present invention may contain a wide variety of additional cosmetic ingredients.
• additional cosmetic ingredients are described in detail below.
• the hair conditioning compositions of the invention may contain a suitable amount of a thickening agent such as a polymeric thickener, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose (available commercially as NATROSOL).
• a thickening agent such as a polymeric thickener, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose (available commercially as NATROSOL).
• compositions of the invention include perfumes, colouring agents, anti-bacterial agents, anti-dandruff agents, preservatives, proteins, polymers, sunscreens, buffering agents, polyols, salt and other moisturising agents, and natural ingredients such as herb and other plant extracts.
• the present invention also relates to a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition comprising steps of:
• step a) the mixing step is conducted till the homogeneous mixture is obtained by stirring the mixture for at least 30 minutes.
• preferred fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms is behenyl alcohol.
• Preferred fatty amide is cocamide MEA, cocamide MIPA, or a mixture thereof.
• Preferred alkylpolyglycoside is decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, or a mixture thereof.
• the first conditioning agent comprises a conditioning agent having a melting point of less than 30°C.
• Preferred first conditioning agent comprises centrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-10, quaternium-87, aminodimethicone, dimethicone, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
• at least one additional cosmetic ingredient is further added to the mixture at a temperature of lower than 30 °C, preferably from 15°C to 30 °C.
• preferred additional cosmetic ingredient is PEG-45M, hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin, sodium citrate, citric acid, henoxyethanol, chlorhexidine, dihydrochloride, or a mixture thereofln one embodiment, at least one second conditioning agent is mixed in step a).
• the second conditioning agent comprises conditioning agents having a melting point of higher than 30°C.
• preferred second conditioning agent is behentrimonium chloride, cetyl esters, or a mixture thereof.
• Example 1 Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 1 10% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 10% cocamide MEA, 10% decyl glucoside and 70% of water, at a temperature of 70-95°C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 3% of centrimonium chloride under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 1 is shown in the table below.
• Example 2 Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 2 5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% decyl glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 1 % sodium citrate, and 70% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature, and left overnight. The mixture is then mixed with 3% centrimonium chloride, 6% amodimethicone, and 1 % glycerin under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 2 is shown in the table below.
• 5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 10% decyl glucoside and 77% of water, at a temperature of 70-95°C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
• the mixture is cooled down to room temperature.
• the mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 3% of centrimonium chloride under room temperature.
• the pearlescent conditioner 4 is shown in the table below.
• 5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% coco glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 0.6% behentrimonium chloride, 1 % sodium citrate, and 76.7% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
• the mixture is cooled down to room temperature.
• the mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 2.5% of centrimonium chloride, 1 % hydroxyethyl cellulose, 2% dimethicone, and 0.2% PEG-45M, under room temperature.
• the pearlescent conditioner 5 is shown in the table below.
• 5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% decyl glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 0.2% sodium citrate, and 71 .17% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature.
• the mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 2% of centrimonium chloride, 1 % amodimethicone, 3% divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, 0.2% PEG-45M, 1 .2% hydroxyethyl cellulose, 1 % polyquaternium-10, 0.8% quaternium-87, 3% glycerin, 0.1 % citric acid, 0.3% phenoxyethanol, and 0.03% chlorhexidine, under room temperature.
• the pearlescent conditioner 5 is shown in the table below.
• comparative conditioners are prepared using the same method as for preparing pearlescent conditioner 1 above. Comparing to the pearlescent conditioner 1 , the comparative conditioners are formulated as shown in the table below:
• Comparison tests are done on pearlescent effect and conditioning effect.
• the incident light rays travel through the medium in which the produced crystals are suspended and the light from the particle layers is reflected back to the surface.
• the shape of the crystals determines the pearlescent effect. The thinner and more platelet the crystals are, the better pearlescent effect the conditioner exhibits.
• Optical micrographs are taken by Lecia DFC245 with 20X magnification to observe the crystals in the conditioners. Photos are taken using Sony digital camera Cybershot DSC-T300 to observe the pearlescent effect as shown in Fig, 1 a and 1 b.
• Evaluation of the pearlescent effect is carried out by visually observing the products of the examples and is sorted by level 0 to 5, each representing: 5: very strong effect; 4: strong effect; 3: good effect; 2: poor effect; 1 : slight effect; 0: no effect.
• the pearlescent conditioning composition of the current invention exhibits a very strong pearlescent effect.
• the current invention exhibits a much better smoothness effect, and at the same time, keeps a good suppleness effect.

Landscapes

• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Priority Applications (2)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=49768025

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (2)

Cited By (6)

Citations (5)

Family Cites Families (1)

• 2012
  • 2012-06-20 CN CN201280074158.2A patent/CN104602667A/zh active Pending
  • 2012-06-20 WO PCT/CN2012/077188 patent/WO2013189037A1/fr not_active Ceased

Patent Citations (5)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events