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WO2012110388A2 - Produit de nettoyage cosmétique et de soin - Google Patents

Produit de nettoyage cosmétique et de soin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012110388A2
WO2012110388A2 PCT/EP2012/052171 EP2012052171W WO2012110388A2 WO 2012110388 A2 WO2012110388 A2 WO 2012110388A2 EP 2012052171 W EP2012052171 W EP 2012052171W WO 2012110388 A2 WO2012110388 A2 WO 2012110388A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
radical
alkyl
hair
group
cleaning agent
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
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PCT/EP2012/052171
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012110388A3 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Schröder
Dirk Hentrich
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of WO2012110388A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012110388A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2012110388A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012110388A3/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to detergents which contain a special polysiloxane in addition to two different amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • the invention further relates to the use of cosmetic cleansing agents for improving the feel and combability of wet and dry hair and for improving the resistance of the hair surface to physical and / or chemical hair damage.
  • Cosmetic hair cleansers have long been known and are regularly improved or adapted to the changing needs of consumers.
  • Cleaning is usually understood to mean the removal of unwanted odors, dirt, dandruff, sebum deposits and styling agent residues.
  • haptic and optically perceptible care effect is meant that the hair after the treatment (cleaning) are smooth, easy to comb, soft, shiny and easy to style.Furthermore, cleaned hair should have an increased volume.
  • DE 102008041020 proposes hair conditioning shampoos containing surfactants and polysiloxanes.
  • the shampoos protect human hair from heat damage.
  • hair damaged by chemical treatments or exposure to ultraviolet light should not be knotted or easily knotted after treatment with the care hair cleaners and should be easy to untangle.
  • Another object of the invention was to find care agents or combinations of active ingredients for hair cleansers which increase the resistance of the hair surface to chemical and physical damage to the hair.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic cleansing compositions which are in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R 5 to R 5 independently of one another represent a radical from the group consisting of alkyl, aryl or alkylaryl having 1 to 30 C atoms,
  • R 6 is a radical bearing at least one quaternary ammonium group
  • - x means a number in the range of 2 to 200, as well
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants from the groups of the following formulas (i) to (v), in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, (I)
  • the cleaning agents according to the invention contain the components a) and b) in a cosmetic carrier, which may preferably be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 40% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 45% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 -
  • ethanol ethyl diglycol
  • 1-propanol 2-propanol
  • isopropanol 1, 2-propylene glycol
  • glycerol benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • Preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R is an aryl radical, preferably a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are identical C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radicals, preferably methyl radicals,
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the group -R 7 - represents at least one grouping of the following formulas (II) to (V)
  • y is a number from 2 to 18,
  • z is a number from 0 to 3 and
  • R 9 is hydrogen, a CC ⁇ alkyl group, a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group or an OH group, and
  • R 0 and R 2 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms, R is an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms or a grouping - (CH 2 ) b -NR 0 R 12 , in which b is a number from 2 to 18,
  • R 3 represents a grouping -O- or -N (H) -
  • R 4 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms
  • a stands for a number from 2 to 18 and
  • Suitable CC 4 -alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl and n-butyl groups. Preference is given to methyl and ethyl groups. Especially preferred are methyl groups.
  • Suitable C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl groups are to be understood as meaning hydroxyethyl, 1-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 1-hydroxybutyl and / or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Suitable inorganic or organic acid anions A " are preferably halide ions, preferably chloride or bromide ions.
  • Particularly preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • Particularly preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 8 to 80
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the grouping -R 7 - corresponds to a grouping of the formula (II), in which y is the number 3, z is the number 1 and R 9 is an -OH group, and
  • R 8 corresponds to the formula (VII), in which R 0 and R 2 are methyl groups, a is the number 3, R 3 is the grouping -N (H) - and R 4 is a C 8 -C 8 alkyl group means.
  • a polysiloxane a) which is suitable for the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention is known, for example, under the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22 and is commercially available.
  • An example of a based on a polysiloxane a) with the INCI designation Silicone Quaternium-22 commercial product that can be used in the inventive cleaning compositions is Abil Quat ® T 60 from Evonik.
  • Abil ® T Quat 60 comprises a mixture of the ingredients known as the INCI names Silicone Quaternium-22 (65%) and PPG-3 Myristyl Ether (35%).
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain the polysiloxane a) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 3% by weight.
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants b) which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v).
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants b) include the surfactants cocamidopropylbetaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions contain the zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants - based on their weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.025 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 5 wt. -%.
  • the cosmetic cleaning agents contain - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 2.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of Formula (iii) and 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (v).
  • a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of at least one polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • An improvement of the hair grip is an object of the present invention.
  • the nourishing component (s) b) can penetrate from the hair cleaners and / or hair care agents into the hair fibers or can be deposited on the fibers.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention in a second preferred embodiment additionally 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 3 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer c).
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ® cationic polymers,
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
  • Such compounds are available under the Be drawings Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.
  • Other suitable cationic polymers of the "temporarily cationic" polymers These polymers are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers c) which can be used in the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which may be selected, for example, from the polymers Polyquaternium known under the INCI names -6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.
  • a cosmetic cleanser according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of a polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are transparent. This embodiment may be preferred by consumers in some cases because it is aesthetically pleasing and has the advantage that the transparent phase and the phase dispersed therein (optionally containing dyes) can be better visualized.
  • Transparent cosmetic cleaning compositions are cleaning compositions whose non-dispersed (transparent) phase preferably has an NTU value (Nephelomteric Turbidity Unit) of not more than 100, more preferably not more than 75, particularly preferably not more than 50 and in particular not more than 30.
  • NTU value Nephelomteric Turbidity Unit
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain - based on their weight - preferably 3 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably 4 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 15 wt .-% of at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants which may be used in the compositions of the invention include:
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) nR or X, n is from 0 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6, independently of one another, stand for a C 4 -hydrocarbon radical.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24C -Atomen in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula.
  • Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4.
  • a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of a polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - b) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • e) contains 5 to 15 wt .-% of at least one anionic surfactant which is selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates having an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl (ether) sulfates with an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular of 10 to 16 C atoms and with 0 to 10, preferably with 1 to 6 and in particular with 2 to 4, ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactant which is selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates having an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl (ether) sulfates with an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular of 10 to 16 C atoms and with 0 to 10, preferably with 1 to 6 and in particular with 2 to 4, ethylene oxide units.
  • the cosmetic cleaning compositions contain - based on their weight - preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% at least one C 2 -C 4 mono- and / or dialkanolamide of at least one C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acid.
  • a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of a polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • At least one anionic surfactant selected from straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates having an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular of 10 to 16 carbon atoms and / or straight-chain or branched alkyl (ether) sulfates an alkyl radical of 8 to 18, in particular of 10 to 16 carbon atoms and having 0 to 10, preferably having 1 to 6 and in particular having 2 to 4, ethylene oxide units, and
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention may also contain a number of other active ingredients which give them advantageous properties.
  • the preferred optional active substances that can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention include, for example:
  • nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers which in the cosmetic cleaners (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.25 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0 , 5 to 3 wt .-% can be used,
  • Suitable further nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers include, for example
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl oligoglucosides, in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2/4 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 -3, such as are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "coco-glucosides.”
  • Further preferred nonionic Surfactants are the C 8 -C 30 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto glycerol.Particularly preferred are the C 0 -C 6 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol Especially preferred is the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name.
  • Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.
  • Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
  • Suitable silicones may be selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 -and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • Wollwachsalkohole also how they can be purchased, for example, under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • Vitamins Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol.
  • Vitamin F the term "vitamin F” is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • nicotinic acid amide particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may be used in the hair cleansing and / or
  • Hair conditioning agents based on their total weight preferably in an amount of 0.001 to
  • Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • the plant extracts may be present in the inventive compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 % By weight.
  • Suitable humectants or penetrants and / or swelling agents which can be added to the cleaning compositions according to the invention are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, Glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butane
  • the humectants may in the compositions of the invention - based on the total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% are used.
  • Wrk-, auxiliaries and additives that can be used in the hair cleanser according to the invention, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention preferably have pH values in the range from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6 and in particular from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the cleaning agents of the invention have excellent properties in the application to the hair.
  • Treated dry hair (especially damaged hair) has an improved hair grip and improved combability.
  • Treated wet hair especially damaged hair have less or no knots and can be easily untangled.
  • Another advantage of the cleaning agents according to the invention is that they support the resistance of the hair surface to physical and / or chemical hair damage. Another advantage is that transparent cleaning compositions can be produced.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention for improving the feel and combability of wet and dry hair and for improving the resilience of the hair surface against physical and / or chemical hair damage.
  • Hair strands of the company Kerling International were used: European natural hair 7/0; lot # 04/2010; N72; Length: 12 cm; Weight: 1 +/- 0.05g.
  • Measuring instrument Hercules Sgemann (Hamburg, Germany) and hard rubber comb, fine-toothed b) Treatment of the hair strands and measurement:
  • the strands of hair were first predamaged by bleaching twice and then stored at 25 ° C and 25% humidity for 48 hours.
  • each strand of hair was moistened with water for 2 seconds.
  • each strand of hair was combed 10 times, measuring the work done (the hair strands were slowly rotated).
  • the work done was related to the reduction of wet combability (where: the higher the numerical value for reducing wet combability, the lower the labor required to pull the comb through the hair strand). For each shampoo wet combability was measured on 12 strands of hair,
  • the hair strands used were machine straps made of Euro-natural-hair; draw; pulled twice; Color 7/0; 3 cm wide, 25 cm total length; about 2 g total weight (Kerling Int. Haarfabrik GmbH).
  • the hair tresses were previously pretreated by treating with a hair dye (80 g "Igora Royal color & care developer” mixed with 20 g “Igora blue dust-free bleach”) and rinsing with water after 30 minutes for 20 seconds ,
  • the strands were washed with 1 ml each of a 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution, rinsed with water for 20 seconds, and wrung out.
  • each test shampoo 1 g was filled in each case a Petri dish. Subsequently, the previously damaged strands of hair were briefly immersed in the respective test shampoos and rinsed with water.
  • the tresses were evaluated by the two experts in dry and wet condition (see below).
  • the grading scale +2, +1, 0, -1, -2 means:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de nettoyage cosmétiques contenant, dans un véhicule cosmétique, a) au moins un polysiloxane de formule générale (I), dans laquelle R1 à R5 représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un reste du groupe alkyle, aryle ou alkylaryle ayant 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, R6 désigne un reste portant au moins un groupe ammonium quaternaire et x représente un nombre compris entre 2 et 200, b) au moins deux tensioactifs amphotères et/ou zwitterioniques des groupes de formules suivantes (i) à (v), dans lesquelles le reste R représente un reste alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou bien monoinsaturé ou polyinsaturé possédant 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, (i), (ii), (iii), (iv), (v), dans la mesure où des tensioactifs d'au moins deux des groupes (i) à (v) sont contenus dans ledit produit. Ces produits nettoient et soignent en particulier les cheveux abîmés et leur apportent une peignabilité et un toucher améliorés.
PCT/EP2012/052171 2011-02-15 2012-02-09 Produit de nettoyage cosmétique et de soin Ceased WO2012110388A2 (fr)

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DE102011004121.4 2011-02-15
DE201110004121 DE102011004121A1 (de) 2011-02-15 2011-02-15 Pflegendes kosmetisches Reinigungsmittel

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WO2012110388A3 WO2012110388A3 (fr) 2013-09-26

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016124407A1 (fr) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de soin et de nettoyage du corps

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DE102012215799A1 (de) * 2012-09-06 2014-03-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarpflegemittel mit gesteigerten Pflegeleistungen

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102008041020A1 (de) 2008-08-06 2010-02-11 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Verwendung von Polysiloxanen mit quaternären Ammoniumgruppen zum Schutz von tierischen oder menschlichen Haaren vor Hitzeschädigung

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US6808701B2 (en) * 2000-03-21 2004-10-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Conditioning compositions
GB0229733D0 (en) * 2002-12-23 2003-01-29 Unilever Plc Hair treatment compositions

Patent Citations (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102008041020A1 (de) 2008-08-06 2010-02-11 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Verwendung von Polysiloxanen mit quaternären Ammoniumgruppen zum Schutz von tierischen oder menschlichen Haaren vor Hitzeschädigung

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016124407A1 (fr) * 2015-02-03 2016-08-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de soin et de nettoyage du corps

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WO2012110388A3 (fr) 2013-09-26

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