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WO2012110386A2 - Produit de nettoyage cosmétique permettant d'augmenter le volume des cheveux - Google Patents

Produit de nettoyage cosmétique permettant d'augmenter le volume des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012110386A2
WO2012110386A2 PCT/EP2012/052169 EP2012052169W WO2012110386A2 WO 2012110386 A2 WO2012110386 A2 WO 2012110386A2 EP 2012052169 W EP2012052169 W EP 2012052169W WO 2012110386 A2 WO2012110386 A2 WO 2012110386A2
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Prior art keywords
radical
group
alkyl
cleaning agent
weight
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PCT/EP2012/052169
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012110386A3 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Schröder
Corinna Bender
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of WO2012110386A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012110386A2/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to detergents containing a high molecular weight cationic polymer in addition to two different silicones.
  • the invention further relates to the use of cosmetic cleansing agents to improve the entangleability and the handle of the hair, to increase the hair volume and to prevent the knotting particular fine, thin hair.
  • Cosmetic hair cleansers have long been known and are regularly improved or adapted to the changing needs of consumers.
  • Cleaning is usually understood to mean the removal of unwanted odors, dirt, dandruff, sebum deposits and styling agent residues.
  • haptic and optically perceptible care effect is meant that the hair after the treatment (cleaning) are smooth, easy to comb, soft, shiny and easy to style.Furthermore, cleaned hair should have an increased volume.
  • hair-conditioning shampoos are proposed in EP 468721 and EP 1 158 952, which in addition to surfactants contain a combination of (highly viscous) silicones and cationic polymers.
  • hairs damaged by chemical treatments or ultraviolet light exposure and / or very fine, thin hairs should not be knotted or slightly knotted after treatment with the care hair cleaners, easily disentangled and supple.
  • Another object of the invention was to find caring or active ingredient combinations for hair cleaners, which can be incorporated easily into the agent, without changing the texture and / or the foam properties of the agent negative.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic cleansing compositions which are in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R 5 to R 5 independently of one another represent a radical from the group consisting of alkyl, aryl or alkylaryl having 1 to 30 C atoms,
  • R 6 is a radical which carries at least one quaternary ammonium group
  • x is a number in the range of 2 to 200
  • cationic polymer having a weight average molecular weight of at least 1,200,000 daltons.
  • the cleaning agents according to the invention contain the components a) to c) in a cosmetic carrier, which may preferably be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 40% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 45% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 - Butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2 Hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isoprop
  • ethanol ethyl diglycol
  • 1-propanol 2-propanol
  • isopropanol 1, 2-propylene glycol
  • glycerol benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • Preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R is an aryl radical, preferably a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are identical C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radicals, preferably methyl radicals,
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the group -R 7 - represents at least one grouping of the following formulas (II) to (V)
  • y is a number from 2 to 18,
  • z is a number from 0 to 3 and
  • R 9 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group or an OH group, and
  • R 0 and R 2 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms,
  • R is an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms or a grouping - (CH 2 ) b -NR 0 R 12 , in which b is a number from 2 to 18,
  • R 3 represents a grouping -O- or -N (H) -
  • R 4 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 C atoms
  • a stands for a number from 2 to 18 and
  • Suitable C r C 4 -alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl and n-butyl groups. Preference is given to methyl and ethyl groups. Especially preferred are methyl groups.
  • Suitable C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl groups are to be understood as meaning hydroxyethyl, 1-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 1-hydroxybutyl and / or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • Suitable inorganic or organic acid anions A " are preferably halide ions, preferably chloride or bromide ions.
  • Particularly preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • Particularly preferred polysiloxanes a) correspond to the formula (I) wherein
  • x is a number from 8 to 80
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the grouping -R 7 - corresponds to a grouping of the formula (II), in which y is the number 3, z is the number 1 and R 9 is an -OH group, and
  • R 8 corresponds to the formula (VII), in which R 0 and R 2 are methyl groups, a is the number 3, R 3 is the grouping -N (H) - and R 4 is a C 8 -C 8 alkyl group means.
  • a polysiloxane a) which is suitable for the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention is known, for example, under the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22 and is commercially available.
  • An example of a based on a polysiloxane a) with the INCI designation Silicone Quaternium-22 commercial product that can be used in the inventive cleaning compositions is Abil Quat ® T 60 from Evonik.
  • Abil ® T Quat 60 contains a mixture of the ingredients known under the INCI names Silicone Quaternium-22 (65%) and PPG-3 Myristyl Ether (35%).
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain the polysiloxane a) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight.
  • Suitable silicones of group b), which differ from the polysiloxanes a), may in principle be selected from all (different from a)) silicones, which can cause conditioning properties on the hair.
  • Suitable silicones b) can be selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers onto which have been grafted non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends;
  • Preferred silicones b which differ from the polysiloxanes a), are water-soluble.
  • water-soluble is understood as meaning those silicones b) which have a solubility of at least 2 g / 100 g of water under standard conditions (25 ° C., 1013 mbar) under standard conditions, of at least 5 g / 100 g of water, more preferably of at least 10 g / 100 g of water and in particular preferred silicones b) are completely water-soluble, which is to be understood as forming a solution in any proportion with water.
  • silicones b) are non-volatile.
  • Particularly preferred silicones b) which are suitable for use in the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention preferably correspond to the following formula (VIII)
  • the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms,
  • x is a number from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
  • y is a number from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and
  • a and b are numbers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • inventive cosmetic detergent particularly suitable silicones b) Silwet ® (General Electric), Dow Corning ® (Dow), Belsil® ® for example, under the CTFA designation dimethicone copolyol known and commercially available (for example, under the names Silsoft® ® Momentive), ( Wacker) and Abil ® (Goldschmidt) available.
  • the silicones b) contain the CTFA name dimethicone copolyol, and which can be used in the inventive cleaning compositions, for example, Silsoft ® 895 (Momentive), Silwet ® L 722 (General Electric), Silwet ® 7001 (General Electric ), Silwet ® 7605 (General Electric), Silwet ® 7500 (General Electric), Dow Corning ® 190 (Dow), Dow Corning ® 193 (Dow), Dow Corning ® 3225 (Dow), Belsil® ® DMC 6031 (Wacker) and / or Abil ® 8842 (Goldschmidt).
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain the silicone b) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight.
  • a third essential component c) of the cleaning agents according to the invention is a cationic polymer which is preferably of high molecular weight and has an average molecular weight (weight average) of at least 1,200,000 daltons.
  • cationic polymers c) derived from natural sources and having a weight average molecular weight of at least 1,200,000 daltons, preferably at least 1,500,000 daltons and more preferably at least 2,000,000 daltons.
  • high molecular weight cationic polymers c) which originate from natural sources and have a cationic charge density of at least 0.5 meq / g, preferably of at least 0.6 meq / g and in particular of at least 0.8 meq / g.
  • the high molecular weight cationic polymers c) with high cationic charge density can be selected, for example
  • hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives
  • hydrophobically modified cationic guar derivatives hydrophobically modified cationic guar derivatives.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic polymers c) which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention are cationic guar derivatives and / or hydrophobically modified cationic guar derivatives, in particular the cationic guar polymers having a weight-average molecular weight of at least 1,200,000 daltons, preferably at least 1,500,000 daltons, and in particular at least 2,000,000, known under the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride Dalton and a cationic charge density of at least 0.5 meq / g.
  • Such cationic polymers are commercially available, for example, under the trade name " Jaguar® C-17” (Rhodia).
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain the cationic polymer c) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of at least one polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120
  • the radical R represents a phenyl radical
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms,
  • x is a number from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
  • y is a number from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and
  • a and b are numbers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30, and c) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic polymer derived from a natural source and having a weight average molecular weight of at least 1,200,000 daltons, preferably at least 1,500,000 daltons and more preferably at least 2,000,000 Dalton has.
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • the cosmetic cleaners contain - based on their weight - preferably 3 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 4 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 20 wt .-% of surfactants from the group of anionic , amphoteric / zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants.
  • Such a surfactant mixture is particularly mild and can prevent or mitigate the additional stress already damaged or fine hair during cleaning.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants may preferably be added to the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 12.5% by weight. % are added.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants which may be used in the compositions of the invention include:
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) nR or X, n is from 0 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently of one another a C 4 - hydrocarbon radical.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24C -Atomen in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula.
  • Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4.
  • Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may preferably be added to the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in amounts of from 0.1 to 12.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular from 1 to 7.5 % By weight.
  • Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may be selected from compounds of the following formulas (i) to (v) in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 Carbon atoms,
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v).
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name.
  • Nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers may, preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention 3 wt .-% are added.
  • nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers examples include
  • alkyl oligoglucosides in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2/4 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 -3, as are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "coco-glucosides", and fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular C 8 -C 24 fatty acid (di) ethanolamides.
  • nonionic surfactants are the C 8 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol. Particularly preferred are the Cio-C 6 -Fetklamono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol. Especially preferred is the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name.
  • a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, a) 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of at least one polysiloxane of the formula (I) in which
  • x is a number from 3 to 120, the radical R represents a phenyl radical,
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 are methyl radicals
  • the radical R 6 is a radical having the structure -R 7 -R 8 , where
  • the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, a
  • x is a number from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
  • y is a number from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and
  • a and b are numbers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30,
  • At least one cationic polymer derived from a natural source having a weight average molecular weight of at least 1,200,000 daltons, preferably at least 1,500,000 daltons and more preferably at least 2,000,000 daltons , and
  • surfactants from the group of anionic, amphoteric / zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants.
  • the cleaning agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-% of at least one polysiloxane with the INCI name Silicone Quaternium-22,
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention may also contain a number of other active ingredients which give them advantageous properties.
  • the preferred optional active substances that can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention include, for example:
  • oil, wax and / or fat components which in the cosmetic cleaners (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 15 wt.% And in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight can be used,
  • Antidandruff active ingredients which in the cosmetic cleaners (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.075 to 3 wt. -% can be used.
  • Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, essence foam herb oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • Useful dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n- Decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and also di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 -and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • Wollwachsalkohole also how they can be purchased, for example, under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • Vitamins Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin ⁇ ⁇ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol.
  • Vitamin F the term "vitamin F” is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • nicotinic acid amide particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the hair cleansing and / or hair conditioning agents (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 be used to 5 wt .-%.
  • Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • the plant extracts may in the inventive compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 parts by weight. % are used.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein powders, which may also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Protein hydrolysates of plant origin eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae, or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the products known and commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein,
  • the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives can preferably be used in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total cleaning agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.
  • Suitable humectants or penetrants and / or swelling agents which can be added to the cleaning compositions according to the invention are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, Glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1,3-diols, for example 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1 ,
  • the humectants may in the compositions of the invention - based on the total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% are used.
  • Wrk-, auxiliaries and additives that can be used in the hair cleanser according to the invention, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention preferably have pH values in the range from 2 to 7, more preferably from 3 to 6 and in particular from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the cleaning agents of the invention have excellent properties in the application to the hair.
  • Treated dry hair (especially fine, thin hair) has an improved hair grip, increased volume and improved combability. Furthermore, the hair feels soft, supple and smooth.
  • a further advantage of the cleaning agents according to the invention is that they are suitable for the treatment of hair in need of styling, and are particularly suitable for combination with hair volume-increasing styling products.
  • a second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic cleansing agent according to the invention for improving the disentanglement and the gripping of the hair, for increasing the hair volume and for preventing the knotting, in particular, of fine, thinner hair.
  • the hair strands used were machine straps made of Euro-natural-hair; draw; pulled twice; Color 7/0; 3 cm wide, 25 cm total length; about 2 g total weight (Kerling Int. Haarfabrik GmbH).
  • the hair tresses were previously pretreated by treating with a hair dye (80 g "Igora Royal color & care developer” mixed with 20 g “Igora blue dust-free bleach”) and rinsing with water after 30 minutes for 20 seconds ,
  • the strands were each washed with 1 ml of a 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution, rinsed with water for 20 seconds, and wrung out.
  • each test shampoo 1 g was filled in each case a Petri dish. Subsequently, the previously damaged strands of hair were briefly immersed in the respective test shampoos and rinsed with water. The tresses were evaluated by the two experts in dry and wet condition (see below).
  • the grading scale +2, +1, 0, -1, -2 means:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de nettoyage cosmétiques contenant, dans un véhicule cosmétique, a) au moins un polysiloxane de formule générale (I), dans laquelle R1 à R5 représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un reste du groupe alkyle, aryle ou alkylaryle ayant 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, R6 désigne un reste portant au moins un groupe ammonium quaternaire et x représente un nombre compris entre 2 et 200, b) au moins une autre silicone, différente de a), et c) au moins un polymère cationique possédant une masse moléculaire moyenne (moyenne en poids) d'au moins 1 200 000 daltons. Ces produits nettoient et soignent en particulier les cheveux fins et/ou abîmés et leur donnent plus de volume et de souplesse.
PCT/EP2012/052169 2011-02-15 2012-02-09 Produit de nettoyage cosmétique permettant d'augmenter le volume des cheveux Ceased WO2012110386A2 (fr)

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DE201110004123 DE102011004123A1 (de) 2011-02-15 2011-02-15 Kosmetisches Reinigungsmittel zur Erhöhung des Haarvolumens
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013072214A3 (fr) * 2011-11-18 2014-05-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produits de soins capillaires contenant des silicones alkoxylés et des silicones cationiques
WO2014177294A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant
WO2014177291A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant
WO2014177292A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102012219583A1 (de) * 2012-10-25 2014-04-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarpflegemittel mit ausgewählten aminofunktionalen Silikonen und ausgewähltem kationischen Keratinhydrolysat
DE102013225846A1 (de) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine Kombination aus Proteolipiden und Ceramiden
DE102016209122A1 (de) * 2016-05-25 2017-11-30 Beiersdorf Ag Transparentes Silikon-haltiges Shampoo

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EP0468721A1 (fr) 1990-07-23 1992-01-29 Unilever Plc Composition de shampooing
EP1158952A1 (fr) 1999-02-05 2001-12-05 Unilever Plc Compositions de shampooings

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JP4049271B2 (ja) * 2002-06-18 2008-02-20 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー シャンプー組成物、及び毛髪を処理する方法
DE102009027964A1 (de) * 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarkonditionierende Mittel mit ausgewählten kationischen Siliconen und Dimethicon
EP2335684A1 (fr) * 2009-12-18 2011-06-22 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de conditionnement pour cheveux

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EP0468721A1 (fr) 1990-07-23 1992-01-29 Unilever Plc Composition de shampooing
EP1158952A1 (fr) 1999-02-05 2001-12-05 Unilever Plc Compositions de shampooings

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013072214A3 (fr) * 2011-11-18 2014-05-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produits de soins capillaires contenant des silicones alkoxylés et des silicones cationiques
WO2014177294A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant
WO2014177291A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant
WO2014177292A1 (fr) * 2013-05-02 2014-11-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Shampoing traitant

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DE102011004123A1 (de) 2012-08-16

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