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WO2011001084A2 - Method for treating hair with ultrasounds - Google Patents

Method for treating hair with ultrasounds Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011001084A2
WO2011001084A2 PCT/FR2010/051324 FR2010051324W WO2011001084A2 WO 2011001084 A2 WO2011001084 A2 WO 2011001084A2 FR 2010051324 W FR2010051324 W FR 2010051324W WO 2011001084 A2 WO2011001084 A2 WO 2011001084A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
insonification
fibers
composition
hair
application
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/FR2010/051324
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French (fr)
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WO2011001084A3 (en
Inventor
Monique Paget
Bénédicte SIMOND
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SEB SA
Original Assignee
SEB SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SEB SA filed Critical SEB SA
Publication of WO2011001084A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011001084A2/en
Publication of WO2011001084A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011001084A3/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
    • A45D2200/207—Vibration, e.g. ultrasound

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new method for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.
  • WO03 / 099058 discloses an ultrasound device for the treatment of hair and other fibers in a comb to more effectively treat the hair with a chemical agent. reducing the amount of active ingredient or the concentration, the duration of application of a cosmetic agent.
  • a cosmetic active may be a product for hair coloring. The product can be applied manually to the hair before ultrasound, as long as necessary to obtain the desired color intensity. In the test results, it is described that the taking of the color lasts 5 minutes by ultrasound treatment in comparison with a conventional 30 minutes duration without ultrasound.
  • US2008 / 0143214 discloses a cosmetic agent reservoir comprising an integrated ultrasonic production device. It notably discloses the use of cavitation "mode” ultrasound for "homogenizing or mixing suspended particles in the colloidal liquid cosmetic composition". The ultrasound frequency is chosen. Nevertheless, according to the modes of use of the ultrasounds, these can be destructive or damaging to the object on which they are applied.
  • US Pat. No. 6,200,326 discloses a method and apparatus for long-term hair / hair removal using ultrasonic energy: the method according to this invention is the introduction into the follicle area of a needle and the transmission ultrasound through the needle, causing vibration. This results in cavitation of the area surrounding the follicle and destruction of the follicle.
  • cavitation mode ultrasound applied to the follicle causes the destruction of the hair, and are used for depilatory purposes.
  • JP9308518 discloses the use of ultrasonic vibrations to remove dust attached to the hair by touching it with the ultrasonic vibration vibrator and vibrating projections by ultrasonic cavitation effect. The cavitation mode allows here to remove the elements of dust on the hair, aggressively on them.
  • WO94 / 28853 discloses a portable massage and cleaning apparatus with ultrasonic vibrations.
  • This apparatus contains hollow vibrating massage members 11 for introducing a liquid into the massage members.
  • the end of each organ is pierced for the exit of the liquid to make possible an irrigation of a portion of the human body to be treated, especially the scalp, and cavitation of the liquid used for this irrigation. It is deduced that the liquid is cavitated and, simultaneously, out through the orifices to be applied to the scalp.
  • the biophysical actions of ultrasound on the body are a mechanical action, a thermal action and a physico-thermal action. These actions are known on the skin.
  • the mechanical action is due to alternation of high frequency vibratory pressure depression on the tissue that causes micro massage effects.
  • the action is also thermal because the tissue absorption of a part of the vibratory energy is transformed into important internal heat which diffuses in depth and at a distance.
  • the action is also physico-chemical because it has been observed on the cell a modification of oxidation-reduction phenomenon, a modification of pH, a modification of the quantities of ions and colloids, an increase of the diffusion processes, an increase of protein distribution tending to cellular normality.
  • the biological effects of ultrasound include a sonophoretic effect.
  • sonophoresis ultrasound causes an increase in skin permeability, which makes it possible to penetrate active products into the skin.
  • one of the dangers of ultrasound is known as the phenomenon of cavitation that occurs from a high intensity, the ultrasound then spread in a liquid, generate areas of high pressure and temperature in the form of small bubbles that burst almost instantly.
  • the inventors of the present invention have not focused on the state of the art. They have discovered that an ultrasonic use, a priori harmful or aggressive for the hair, may prove to improve the effectiveness of a cosmetic agent coated on the hair fibers, if the ultrasound is used under certain well-defined conditions on the fibers coated capillaries.
  • the object of the present invention is to develop a new ultrasonic treatment process of hair or keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with easy and quick processes to implement. These methods may become persistent in at least one wash by this ultrasonic treatment method.
  • This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for treating hair fibers which comprises: applying to hair fibers a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients, then the insonification of the coated or plaster fibers composition, the application and insonification being dissociated from one another, where the insonification is carried out in such a way as to create a cavitation phenomenon on the surface of the fibers.
  • Cavitation is understood to mean a phenomenon of bubble growth in a fluid or a gel, linked to a depression, this depression being generated by the acoustic wave which changes punctually the density of the fluid or gel in which it is propagated.
  • Cavitation describes the birth and radial oscillation of gas and vapor bubbles in a liquid or gel subjected to depression. If this depression is high enough, the pressure can become lower than the saturation vapor pressure, and a vapor bubble is likely to be born.
  • the appearance of the vapor bubble thus created instantly eliminates the conditions that gave birth to it. There is therefore an implosion of the bubble.
  • the latter may be so violent that the pressure and temperature inside the bubble can take very high values (several thousand bar, several thousand Kelvin).
  • the bubble can emit a shock wave in the liquid or gel, which allows to break drops (emulsification), to disperse, to disagglomerate or break solid particles, or to clean or erode solid surfaces.
  • the method of the invention comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active agents.
  • active cosmetic agents mention may be made of coloring precursors, direct dyes, silicone polymers or not, fixing or not, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, acidifiers, alkaline agents, perfumes, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, chemically reactive or inert polymers, pigments, particles organic or mineral solids, thickeners, vitamins, plant extracts, pro-penetrating or swelling agents of the fiber.
  • active cosmetic agents can be in different galenical forms such as for example liquids or gels.
  • the cosmetic treatment step may be carried out from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form.
  • the compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preserving agents, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition. composition.
  • the method of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a treatment of the hair fibers such as coloration, decoloration, care, fixation while improving the cosmetic effects of this treatment. Moreover, the method of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties that are at least one wash and that the application is user-friendly.
  • the hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus have an improved treatment with a brighter appearance and / or a deeper color than that obtained with the method of the technique implemented without ultrasound in cavitation mode.
  • hair fibers keratin fibers such as hair or synthetic fibers called “extensions” which are intended to be reported on the hair of a person by various means including bonding and this to change the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by changing the volume, color or appearance of the hair.
  • the application of the composition is practiced before the insonification of the coated fibers. According to a more precise embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is practiced immediately before the insonification of the coated fibers.
  • the insonification is practiced at the beginning of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition.
  • period is meant the time period during which the fibers are coated with the composition, before rinsing.
  • the insonification is practiced at the end of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition.
  • the duration of insonification is greater than or equal to 1 second and less than 5 minutes, preferably between 1 and 2 minutes.
  • the duration of insonification is less than one sixth of the duration of application of the composition.
  • the duration of insonification will be less than 5 minutes (between 1 and 4 minutes, preferably the minimum duration to obtain a good result) and the duration of application of the cosmetic component will be approximately equal to 30 minutes.
  • the insonification is applied in pulsed mode.
  • the pulsations have the same duration, for example 0.5 seconds in ON mode and 0.5 seconds in OFF mode.
  • the insonification is applied in continuous mode.
  • the insonification step is followed by a step of rinsing this composition with water and / or a shampoo.
  • the ultrasonic frequency used is between 10 kHz and 30 kHz, preferably equal to about 45 kHz.
  • the ultrasonic power used is between 1W and 3OW, preferably less than or equal to about 18W.
  • the ultrasonic surface power used is between 0.5 W / cm 2 and 20 W / cm 2 , preferably less than or equal to approximately 2.5 W / cm 2 . This is the surface of the vibrating source.
  • the insonification is carried out in a single pass on the wick coated with capillary fibers.
  • the insonification is carried out in at least two passes on the wick coated with hair fibers.
  • the insonification can be repeated several times on the same fibers, however, it is possible to obtain a very good cosmetic result after a single application of ultrasound.
  • the insonification step is conducted on the fibers in a mobile manner.
  • the passage of ultrasound on the hair fibers is at low speed of movement, and / or constant speed.
  • the speed can also be non-constant if, for the case of a coloration, one wants for example to produce color variations on the locks.
  • the speed changes the application time of the ultrasound.
  • the movement speed used is between 0.1 mm / s and 5 cm / s, preferably 0.5 cm / s.
  • the speed of movement is low. Ultrasound can be applied totally or partially in the wick depending on the speed.
  • the insonification step is carried out immovably on the coated hair fibers.
  • Ultrasound can be applied totally or partially, that is to say only on certain areas.
  • the ultrasound probe can remain mobile or stationary.
  • the step of applying to the hair fibers of the composition is chosen from at least one of the following steps: application of the composition comprising a permanent, semi-permanent or fugitive coloring agent, application of the composition comprising a care of the hair fibers, application of the composition comprising a hair-color bleaching agent, application of the composition comprising a hair-fiber fixing agent
  • the application to the hair fibers of the composition is carried out in order to precisely control the deposited thickness of the composition in order to optimize the action of ultrasound.
  • the power of the ultrasound is set in order to produce the cavitation effect as a function of at least one of the following parameters: the concentration of the cosmetic active agent (s) present in the composition, the viscosity of the composition, the acoustic impedance of the composition, the thickness of the wick of capillary fibers to be treated, the color before treatment of the hair fibers.
  • the distance between the ultrasonic source and the capillary fibers is between 0 and 5 mm inclusive, or between 0.5 mm and 5 mm inclusive, preferably equal to 1 mm.
  • the ultrasound probe may not be in contact with the hair fibers.
  • the method comprises a training step a planar wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick. This allows a more distributed insonification of the hair fibers.
  • the method comprises a step of calibrating the thickness of the hair of capillary fibers. This allows a more reproducible insonification of the hair fibers.
  • the method comprises a step of combing the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick. This allows a more homogeneous insonification of the hair fibers.
  • the method comprises a step of calibrating the thickness of the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick.
  • the combing step can be conducted with the formation of a planar wick and / or with the calibration of the thickness of the wick, simultaneously or not.
  • the application of ultrasound can be implemented using any device known per se for generating ultrasound in cavitation mode according to the method of the invention.
  • this device is portable, that is to say that the device for generating the ultrasound is in contact with the portion of the device comprising the dispensing orifices of the cosmetic product.
  • the invention has shown excellent results especially in the field of hair coloring, complete or partial (locks).
  • the implementation of hair coloring is a restrictive manipulation. Spoliation of the environment is also a constraint of use in the salon of the professional as at home. The time required is usually long, especially the break time is a pretty heavy constraint. The contact time with the chemicals constituting the coloring mixtures are long and therefore they can be aggressive for both the scalp and the hair.
  • Permanent coloring product their formulation involves a greater attack of the keratin of the hair so as to penetrate the dyes in the hair. It ensures a swelling of the hair in an alkaline medium that promotes the penetration of dyes (precursors) during the break time.
  • the product formulation is designed to provide single-step coloring.
  • the products are in the form of 2 products that must be mixed beforehand. The mixture should be used within 30 minutes.
  • This operation involves a break time of 20 to 30 minutes.
  • the inventors In order to facilitate this operation, and / or to limit the exposure of the hair to the chemicals, the inventors have thought of two different methods recommending the use of an ultrasonic source to promote the coloration of the hair, allowing either a better penetration is a better grip of the compounds ensuring the coloring.
  • the application step is as follows: the product is applied to the hair either manually (with a brush for example) or by means of a device facilitating the removal.
  • the cosmetic product must be evenly distributed on each wick.
  • the cosmetic product must shrink the hair.
  • the cosmetic product can be applied by the device which insonifies the wick or by an independent device.
  • the insonification step is carried out as follows: the ultrasound device is applied to the hair immediately after the coating.
  • the ultrasound probe is placed near the surface of the hair.
  • the formulation of the cosmetic product and the power used are such that we are in a situation of cavitation.
  • the ultrasound device is wicked on the whole hair for a maximum of 5 minutes on each zone.
  • the possible step of rinsing the hair is then rinsed with clear water and shampooed as planned by the manufacturer of the coloring product.
  • Cavitation bubbles are chemical microreactors in which very high temperatures and pressures are reached just before their implosion. When the cavitation bubbles meet a solid surface, they implode on this surface by forming micro-jets of very violent liquid and thereby modify the surface state and the permeability of said surface.
  • the viscosity of the commercially available coloring products is suitable for obtaining these cavitation phenomena.
  • the coloring pigments Under the action of ultrasound, the coloring pigments will penetrate or accumulate more quickly in or on the hair.
  • the concentration of pigment thus deposited is greater in a given time, the tone obtained is in all cases higher and more intense after ultrasonic treatment.
  • the treatment time is strictly less than 5 minutes for dyes as formulated today, whereas in conventional use it takes 20 to 30 minutes.
  • the application time is about 1 to 4 minutes to obtain, with commercially available color shampoos or used by professionals, a level of coloration equivalent to that obtained under normal conditions of use.
  • the inventors have verified that the concentration of these products can be advantageously reduced and the treatment time or the pause time for a given level of coloration can be increased substantially in order to limit the degradation of the hair and to ensure a better quality. protection of the scalp. It has also been demonstrated, by virtue of the persistence of the coloration, that the use of ultrasound under certain precise conditions, in particular under cavitation conditions, makes it possible to obtain a "deeper” and “more intense” color with better hold. in time over the shampoos. The method / method number 2 relating to this use is described below.
  • the application step is the same as for example 1.
  • the insonification stage considers two cases:
  • the insonification step is applied at the end of the break time recommended by the manufacturer.
  • the ultrasound probe is placed near the surface of the hair.
  • the formulation of the cosmetic product and the power used are such that we are in a situation of cavitation.
  • the ultrasound device is wicked on the whole hair for a maximum of 5 minutes on each zone.
  • the hair is then rinsed with clear water and shampooing is done as usual.
  • the ultrasonic frequency used of the transducer is approximately equal to 45 kHz;
  • the power of the probe is from 1 to 30 acoustic watts, preferably 18W;
  • the size of the probe will be 1 to 10 cm 2 ;
  • the pfd will be 0.5W / cm 2 at 20W / cm 2 ' preferably 2.5W / cm 2 to apply enough energy to cause cavitation;
  • the distance between the ultrasound probe and the surface of the treated lock is about 1 mm.
  • the insonification time per zone varies from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably between 1 and 4 minutes.
  • the cuticle is the periphery of the hair, it protects the inner part of the hair against the external environment and the damage caused by daily treatments, sunlight and humidity.
  • a thickness of 3 to 5 ⁇ m it represents approximately 10% of the mass of the hair and is composed of a dozen layers of keratin cells. These cells, each of a thickness of about 0.5 microns, are interlaced with each other like slates on a roof and also connected to the cortex. They are connected both to each other and to the cortex.
  • the results show that the invention promotes the distribution of the product on the hair and promotes the penetration and / or fixing of the products on the hair.
  • the ultrasound source can be integrated into a comb or brush to be closer to the hair.
  • the source comes close to the hair. It can even come into contact with the hair.
  • the ultrasound source can also be integrated in a pliers smoothing or curling or embossing.
  • the source can advantageously be integrated at the level of the heating plate and ensure the treatment of the wick at the same time as smoothing and protection of the hair as appropriate.
  • a flat surface may be provided for coming into contact with the wick and moving over it, the surface being such as to allow sufficient power output to reach cavitation. Combination with a comb may favor distribution within the wick.
  • Beside the source may be provided a humidifying device or coating a liquid or a gel or a device containing a bath of the composition for receiving the wick.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for treating capillary fibers, including: applying, onto said capillary fibers, a composition including one or more cosmetic active agents, and then insonifying the fibers coated or to be coated with the composition, the application and the insonification being separate from each other, wherein the insonification is carried out so as to create a cavitation phenomenon at the surface of the fibers.

Description

PROCEDE DE TRAITEMENT DES CHEVEUX A L1AIDE D'ULTRASONS HAIR TREATMENT METHOD G 1 USING ULTRASOUND

La présente invention concerne un nouveau procédé de traitement des fibres capillaires, en particulier des cheveux. The present invention relates to a new method for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.

Il est connu d'appliquer des actifs cosmétiques sur les fibres kératiniques ou capillaires. II est aussi connu d'utiliser des ultrasons pour le traitement des fibres capillaires, ce traitement à ultrasons pouvant être associé à différents traitements par application d'un cosmétique sur les fibres capillaires. It is known to apply cosmetic active ingredients to keratinous or capillary fibers. It is also known to use ultrasound for the treatment of hair fibers, this ultrasonic treatment may be associated with different treatments by applying a cosmetic on the hair fibers.

En particulier, cet usage des ultrasons sur des cheveux enduits d'un agent cosmétique est connu : par exemple WO03/099058 divulgue un dispositif ultrasonore pour le traitement des cheveux et autres fibres dans un peigne pour traiter plus efficacement le cheveu avec un agent chimique en réduisant la quantité d'actif ou la concentration, la durée d'application d'un agent cosmétique. Un tel actif cosmétique peut être un produit pour la coloration des cheveux. Le produit peut être appliqué manuellement sur le cheveu avant passage des ultrasons, aussi longtemps que nécessaire pour obtenir l'intensité de coloration désirée. Dans les résultats de tests, il est décrit que la prise de la couleur dure 5 minutes par traitement ultrasons en comparaison à une durée de 30 minutes conventionnelle sans ultrasons. In particular, this use of ultrasound on hair coated with a cosmetic agent is known: for example WO03 / 099058 discloses an ultrasound device for the treatment of hair and other fibers in a comb to more effectively treat the hair with a chemical agent. reducing the amount of active ingredient or the concentration, the duration of application of a cosmetic agent. Such a cosmetic active may be a product for hair coloring. The product can be applied manually to the hair before ultrasound, as long as necessary to obtain the desired color intensity. In the test results, it is described that the taking of the color lasts 5 minutes by ultrasound treatment in comparison with a conventional 30 minutes duration without ultrasound.

II est d'autre part connu de traiter aux ultrasons des composants cosmétiques compris dans leur réservoir, pour améliorer leurs propriétés avant toute application sur la peau. Par exemple, US2008/0143214 divulgue un réservoir pour agent cosmétique comprenant un dispositif intégré de production d'ultrasons. Il divulgue notamment l'usage d'ultrasons en « mode » cavitation pour « homogénéiser ou mélanger des particules suspendues dans la composition cosmétique liquide colloïdale ». La fréquence des ultrasons est choisie. Néanmoins, selon les modes d'usage des ultrasons, ceux-ci peuvent se révéler destructeurs ou dommageables de l'objet sur lesquels ils sont appliqués. It is also known to ultrasonically treat cosmetic components included in their reservoir to improve their properties before any application to the skin. For example, US2008 / 0143214 discloses a cosmetic agent reservoir comprising an integrated ultrasonic production device. It notably discloses the use of cavitation "mode" ultrasound for "homogenizing or mixing suspended particles in the colloidal liquid cosmetic composition". The ultrasound frequency is chosen. Nevertheless, according to the modes of use of the ultrasounds, these can be destructive or damaging to the object on which they are applied.

Par exemple, le brevet US 6,200,326 décrit une méthode et un appareil pour la suppression à long terme de cheveux/poils utilisant l'énergie ultrasonique : la méthode selon cette invention est l'introduction dans la zone du follicule d'une aiguille et la transmission d'ultrasons au travers de l'aiguille, causant une vibration. De ceci résulte la cavitation de la zone entourant le follicule et la destruction du follicule. Ainsi les ultrasons en mode dit de cavitation appliqués sur le follicule causent la destruction du poil, et sont utilisés à des fins dépilatoires. De façon autre, l'abrégé JP9308518 décrit l'usage de vibrations ultrasoniques pour enlever la poussière attachée au cheveu en le touchant avec le vibrateur à vibrations ultrasoniques et des projections vibrantes par effet de cavitation ultrasonique. Le mode cavitation permet ici d'enlever les éléments de poussière sur les cheveux, de façon agressive sur ceux-ci. For example, US Pat. No. 6,200,326 discloses a method and apparatus for long-term hair / hair removal using ultrasonic energy: the method according to this invention is the introduction into the follicle area of a needle and the transmission ultrasound through the needle, causing vibration. This results in cavitation of the area surrounding the follicle and destruction of the follicle. Thus cavitation mode ultrasound applied to the follicle causes the destruction of the hair, and are used for depilatory purposes. Alternatively, JP9308518 discloses the use of ultrasonic vibrations to remove dust attached to the hair by touching it with the ultrasonic vibration vibrator and vibrating projections by ultrasonic cavitation effect. The cavitation mode allows here to remove the elements of dust on the hair, aggressively on them.

Enfin, le document WO94/28853 divulgue un appareil de massage et de nettoyage portatif à vibrations ultrasonores. Cet appareil contient des organes de massage vibrants 11 creux pour introduire un liquide à l'intérieur des organes de massage. L'extrémité de chaque organe est percée pour la sortie du liquide pour rendre possible une irrigation d'une partie du corps humain à traiter, notamment le cuir chevelu, et la mise en cavitation du liquide utilisé pour cette irrigation. On en déduit que le liquide est mis en cavitation et, simultanément, sort par les orifices pour être appliqué au cuir chevelu. Les actions biophysiques des ultrasons sur le corps sont une action mécanique, une action thermique et une action physico-thermique. Ces actions sont connues sur la peau. L'action mécanique est due à l'alternance de pression dépression vibratoire de haute fréquence sur le tissu qui provoque des effets de micro massage. L'action est thermique aussi car l'absorption tissulaire d'une partie de l'énergie vibratoire se transforme en chaleur interne importante qui se diffuse en profondeur et à distance. L'action est également physico-chimique car il a été observé sur la cellule une modification de phénomène d'oxydoréduction, une modification de pH, une modification des quantités d'ions et des colloïdes, une augmentation des processus de la diffusion, une augmentation de la répartition des protéines tendant à la normalité cellulaire. Finally, WO94 / 28853 discloses a portable massage and cleaning apparatus with ultrasonic vibrations. This apparatus contains hollow vibrating massage members 11 for introducing a liquid into the massage members. The end of each organ is pierced for the exit of the liquid to make possible an irrigation of a portion of the human body to be treated, especially the scalp, and cavitation of the liquid used for this irrigation. It is deduced that the liquid is cavitated and, simultaneously, out through the orifices to be applied to the scalp. The biophysical actions of ultrasound on the body are a mechanical action, a thermal action and a physico-thermal action. These actions are known on the skin. The mechanical action is due to alternation of high frequency vibratory pressure depression on the tissue that causes micro massage effects. The action is also thermal because the tissue absorption of a part of the vibratory energy is transformed into important internal heat which diffuses in depth and at a distance. The action is also physico-chemical because it has been observed on the cell a modification of oxidation-reduction phenomenon, a modification of pH, a modification of the quantities of ions and colloids, an increase of the diffusion processes, an increase of protein distribution tending to cellular normality.

Les effets biologiques des ultrasons sont notamment un effet de sonophorèse. En sonophorèse, les ultrasons provoquent une augmentation de la perméabilité cutanée, ce qui permet de faire pénétrer des produits actifs dans la peau. En revanche, un des dangers des ultrasons est connu comme le phénomène de cavitation qui se produit à partir d'une grande intensité, les ultrasons se propagent alors dans un liquide, génèrent des zones de fortes pressions et température sous forme de petite bulles qui éclatent quasiment instantanément. Les inventeurs de la présente invention ne se sont cependant pas attachés à l'état de l'art. Ils ont découvert qu'un usage ultrasonique, a priori néfaste ou agressif pour le cheveu, peut s'avérer améliorer l'efficacité d'un agent cosmétique enduit sur les fibres capillaires, si les ultrasons sont utilisés dans certaines conditions bien définies sur les fibres capillaires enduites. The biological effects of ultrasound include a sonophoretic effect. In sonophoresis, ultrasound causes an increase in skin permeability, which makes it possible to penetrate active products into the skin. In contrast, one of the dangers of ultrasound is known as the phenomenon of cavitation that occurs from a high intensity, the ultrasound then spread in a liquid, generate areas of high pressure and temperature in the form of small bubbles that burst almost instantly. The inventors of the present invention, however, have not focused on the state of the art. They have discovered that an ultrasonic use, a priori harmful or aggressive for the hair, may prove to improve the effectiveness of a cosmetic agent coated on the hair fibers, if the ultrasound is used under certain well-defined conditions on the fibers coated capillaries.

Le but de la présente invention est de développer un nouveau procédé de traitement par ultrasons des fibres capillaires ou kératiniques qui permet d'obtenir une amélioration des propriétés cosmétiques et visuelles des fibres capillaires avec des procédés faciles et rapides à mettre en œuvre. Ces procédés peuvent devenir rémanents à au moins un lavage grâce à ce procédé de traitement par ultrasons. Ce but est atteint par Ia présente invention qui a pour objet un procédé de traitement des fibres capillaires qui comprend : l'application sur des fibres capillaires d'une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs actifs cosmétiques, puis l'insonification des fibres enduites ou à enduire de la composition, l'application et l'insonification étant dissociées l'une de l'autre, où l'insonification est effectuée de façon telle à créer à la surface des fibres un phénomène de cavitation. The object of the present invention is to develop a new ultrasonic treatment process of hair or keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with easy and quick processes to implement. These methods may become persistent in at least one wash by this ultrasonic treatment method. This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for treating hair fibers which comprises: applying to hair fibers a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients, then the insonification of the coated or plaster fibers composition, the application and insonification being dissociated from one another, where the insonification is carried out in such a way as to create a cavitation phenomenon on the surface of the fibers.

Par cavitation on entend un phénomène de croissance de bulle au sein d'un fluide ou un gel, lié à une dépression, cette dépression étant générée par l'onde acoustique qui modifie ponctuellement la densité du fluide ou du gel dans lequel elle se propage. Cavitation is understood to mean a phenomenon of bubble growth in a fluid or a gel, linked to a depression, this depression being generated by the acoustic wave which changes punctually the density of the fluid or gel in which it is propagated.

La cavitation décrit la naissance et l'oscillation radiale de bulles de gaz et de vapeur dans un liquide ou un gel soumis à une dépression. Si cette dépression est suffisamment élevée, la pression peut devenir inférieure à la pression de vapeur saturante, et une bulle de vapeur est susceptible de naître. Cavitation describes the birth and radial oscillation of gas and vapor bubbles in a liquid or gel subjected to depression. If this depression is high enough, the pressure can become lower than the saturation vapor pressure, and a vapor bubble is likely to be born.

L'apparition de la bulle de vapeur ainsi créée élimine instantanément les conditions qui lui ont donné naissance. Il se produit donc une implosion de la bulle. Cette dernière peut-être si violente que les pression et température à l'intérieur de la bulle peuvent prendre des valeurs très élevées (plusieurs milliers de bar, plusieurs milliers de Kelvin). En implosant, la bulle peut émettre une onde de choc dans le liquide ou le gel, qui permet de casser des gouttes (émulsification), de disperser, désagglomérer ou briser des particules solides, ou encore de nettoyer ou éroder des surfaces solides. The appearance of the vapor bubble thus created instantly eliminates the conditions that gave birth to it. There is therefore an implosion of the bubble. The latter may be so violent that the pressure and temperature inside the bubble can take very high values (several thousand bar, several thousand Kelvin). By imploding, the bubble can emit a shock wave in the liquid or gel, which allows to break drops (emulsification), to disperse, to disagglomerate or break solid particles, or to clean or erode solid surfaces.

Par application on comprend l'action de mettre le composant cosmétique sur les fibres capillaires de manière à ce qu'il les recouvre totalement ou partiellement et/ou y adhère totalement ou partiellement. Les fibres sont ainsi enduites du composant cosmétique. II faut en particulier noter que cette étape d'application de la composition cosmétique n'est pas mise en œuvre simultanément à l'application des ultrasons. Ces deux étapes sont dissociées et permettent à la composition cosmétique déposée sur le cheveu de bien se répartir sur la surface du cheveu par capillarité. Ensuite, la mèche de fibres capillaires est soumise aux ultrasons dont l'effet sera amélioré sans abîmer les cheveux pour autant. Il n'est cependant pas nécessaire de laisser un grand intervalle temporel entre les deux étapes, Le procédé de l'invention comprend une étape de traitement cosmétique des fibres capillaires au moyen d'une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs actifs cosmétiques. By application is understood the action of putting the cosmetic component on the hair fibers so that it covers them totally or partially and / or adheres totally or partially. The fibers are thus coated with the cosmetic component. It should be noted in particular that this step of applying the cosmetic composition is not carried out simultaneously with the application of ultrasound. These two steps are dissociated and allow the cosmetic composition deposited on the hair to be well distributed on the surface of the hair by capillarity. Then, the wick of hair fibers is subjected to ultrasound whose effect will be improved without damaging the hair so far. However, it is not necessary to leave a large time interval between the two steps. The method of the invention comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active agents.

A titre d'agents cosmétiques actifs, on peut citer les précurseurs de coloration, les colorants directs, les polymères siliconés ou non, fixant ou non, les huiles minérales, végétales ou de synthèse, les cires, les agents réducteurs, les oxydants, les agents conditionneurs, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les agents séquestrants ou stabilisants, les antioxydants, les conservateurs, les acidifiants, les agents alcalins, les parfums, les siliconés volatiles ou non, les polymères réactifs ou inertes chimiquement, les pigments, les particules solides organiques ou minérales, les épaississants, les vitamines, les extraits végétaux, les agents pro-pénétrants ou de gonflement de la fibre. Ces agents cosmétiques actifs peuvent se présenter sous différentes formes galéniques comme par exemple des liquides ou des gels. As active cosmetic agents, mention may be made of coloring precursors, direct dyes, silicone polymers or not, fixing or not, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, acidifiers, alkaline agents, perfumes, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, chemically reactive or inert polymers, pigments, particles organic or mineral solids, thickeners, vitamins, plant extracts, pro-penetrating or swelling agents of the fiber. These active cosmetic agents can be in different galenical forms such as for example liquids or gels.

L'étape de traitement cosmétique peut être mise en œuvre à partir d'une composition sous la forme d'une lotion, épaissie ou non, d'une crème, d'un gel, ou de toute autre forme appropriée. Les compositions utilisées sont généralement des compositions aqueuses pouvant contenir des ingrédients habituellement utilisés dans les compositions cosmétiques, tels que des solvants, des agents tensioactifs, des épaississants, des agents conservateurs, des parfums ou tout autre additif utilisé dans ce type de composition. The cosmetic treatment step may be carried out from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form. The compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preserving agents, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition. composition.

Le procédé de la présente invention permet en particulier d'obtenir un traitement des fibres capillaires tel qu'une coloration, décoloration, un soin, une fixation tout en améliorant les effets cosmétiques de ce traitement. Par ailleurs, le procédé de la présente invention permet d'obtenir une amélioration des propriétés cosmétiques rémanente à au moins un lavage et du confort d'application pour l'utilisateur. Les fibres capillaires traitées par le procédé de l'invention présentent ainsi un traitement amélioré avec un aspect plus brillant ou/et une couleur plus profonde que celui obtenu avec le procédé de la technique mis en œuvre sans ultrasons en mode cavitation. Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend par « fibres capillaires », des fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux ou des fibres synthétiques appelées « extensions » qui sont destinées à être rapportées sur la chevelure d'une personne par différents moyens notamment par collage et ceci afin de modifier l'aspect de la chevelure naturelle d'une personne par exemple, en modifiant le volume, la couleur ou l'aspect de la chevelure. The method of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a treatment of the hair fibers such as coloration, decoloration, care, fixation while improving the cosmetic effects of this treatment. Moreover, the method of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties that are at least one wash and that the application is user-friendly. The hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus have an improved treatment with a brighter appearance and / or a deeper color than that obtained with the method of the technique implemented without ultrasound in cavitation mode. In the context of the present invention, the term "hair fibers", keratin fibers such as hair or synthetic fibers called "extensions" which are intended to be reported on the hair of a person by various means including bonding and this to change the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by changing the volume, color or appearance of the hair.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, l'application de la composition est pratiquée avant l'insonification des fibres enduites. Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention plus précis, l'application de la composition est pratiquée immédiatement avant l'insonification des fibres enduites. According to one embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is practiced before the insonification of the coated fibers. According to a more precise embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is practiced immediately before the insonification of the coated fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, l'insonification est pratiquée en début de la période pendant laquelle les fibres sont enduites de la composition. Par période on entend la période temporelle pendant laquelle les fibres sont enduites par la composition, avant tout rinçage. Selon un mode de réalisation alternatif de l'invention, l'insonification est pratiquée en fin de la période pendant laquelle les fibres sont enduites de la composition. Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, la durée d'insonification est supérieure ou égale à 1 seconde et inférieure à 5 minutes, préférentieliement comprise entre 1 et 2 minutes. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the insonification is practiced at the beginning of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition. By period is meant the time period during which the fibers are coated with the composition, before rinsing. According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the insonification is practiced at the end of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition. According to one embodiment of the invention, the duration of insonification is greater than or equal to 1 second and less than 5 minutes, preferably between 1 and 2 minutes.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, la durée d'insonification est inférieure à un sixième de la durée d'application de la composition. According to one embodiment of the invention, the duration of insonification is less than one sixth of the duration of application of the composition.

Par exemple, la durée d'insonification sera inférieure à 5 minutes (entre 1 et 4 minutes, préférentieliement la durée minimale pour obtenir un bon résultat) et la durée d'application du composant cosmétique sera environ égale à 30 minutes. For example, the duration of insonification will be less than 5 minutes (between 1 and 4 minutes, preferably the minimum duration to obtain a good result) and the duration of application of the cosmetic component will be approximately equal to 30 minutes.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, l'insonification est appliquée en mode puisé. Préférentieliement, les pulsations ont la même durée, par exemple 0,5 secondes en mode ON et 0,5 secondes en mode OFF. According to one embodiment of the invention, the insonification is applied in pulsed mode. Preferably, the pulsations have the same duration, for example 0.5 seconds in ON mode and 0.5 seconds in OFF mode.

Selon un mode de réalisation alternatif de l'invention, l'insonification est appliquée en mode continu. According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the insonification is applied in continuous mode.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, l'étape d'insonification est suivie d'une étape de rinçage de cette composition avec de l'eau et/ou un shampoing. According to one embodiment of the invention, the insonification step is followed by a step of rinsing this composition with water and / or a shampoo.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention concernant le phénomène de cavitation, la fréquence ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 1OkHz et 30OkHz, préférentieliement égale à environ 45kHz. According to one embodiment of the invention concerning the cavitation phenomenon, the ultrasonic frequency used is between 10 kHz and 30 kHz, preferably equal to about 45 kHz.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention concernant le phénomène de cavitation, la puissance ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 1W et 3OW, préférentieliement inférieure ou égale à environ 18W. According to one embodiment of the invention concerning the phenomenon of cavitation, the ultrasonic power used is between 1W and 3OW, preferably less than or equal to about 18W.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention concernant le phénomène de cavitation, la puissance surfacique ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 0,5W/cm2 et 20W/cm2, préférentieliement inférieure ou égale à environ 2,5W/cm2. Il s'agit de la surface de la source vibrante. According to one embodiment of the invention concerning the cavitation phenomenon, the ultrasonic surface power used is between 0.5 W / cm 2 and 20 W / cm 2 , preferably less than or equal to approximately 2.5 W / cm 2 . This is the surface of the vibrating source.

Selon un mode de réalisation, l'insonification est effectuée en un seul passage sur la mèche enduite de fibres capillaires. According to one embodiment, the insonification is carried out in a single pass on the wick coated with capillary fibers.

Alternativement, l'insonification est effectuée en au moins deux passages sur la mèche enduite de fibres capillaires. Alternatively, the insonification is carried out in at least two passes on the wick coated with hair fibers.

En effet, l'insonification peut être répétée plusieurs fois sur les mêmes fibres, cependant, il est possible d'obtenir un très bon résultat cosmétique après une seule application d'ultrasons. Indeed, the insonification can be repeated several times on the same fibers, however, it is possible to obtain a very good cosmetic result after a single application of ultrasound.

Selon un mode de réalisation, l'étape d'insonification est conduite sur les fibres de façon mobile. Préférentieliement le passage des ultrasons sur les fibres capillaires se fait à vitesse de déplacement faible, et/ou à vitesse constante. Mais la vitesse peut également être non constante si, pour le cas d'une coloration, on veut par exemple produire des variations de couleur sur les mèches. Dans tous les cas, la vitesse modifie le temps d'application des ultrasons. La vitesse de déplacement utilisée est comprise entre 0,1 mm/s et 5cm/s préférentieliement 0,5 cm/s. Préférentieliement, la vitesse de déplacement est faible. Les ultrasons peuvent être appliqués totalement ou partiellement dans la mèche selon la vitesse. According to one embodiment, the insonification step is conducted on the fibers in a mobile manner. Preferably the passage of ultrasound on the hair fibers is at low speed of movement, and / or constant speed. But the speed can also be non-constant if, for the case of a coloration, one wants for example to produce color variations on the locks. In all cases, the speed changes the application time of the ultrasound. The movement speed used is between 0.1 mm / s and 5 cm / s, preferably 0.5 cm / s. Preferably, the speed of movement is low. Ultrasound can be applied totally or partially in the wick depending on the speed.

Selon un mode de réalisation alternatif, l'étape d'insonification est conduite de façon immobile sur les fibres capillaires enduites. According to an alternative embodiment, the insonification step is carried out immovably on the coated hair fibers.

Les ultrasons peuvent être appliqués totalement ou partiellement, c'est-à-dire seulement sur certaines zones. Ultrasound can be applied totally or partially, that is to say only on certain areas.

Ainsi, la sonde d'ultrasons peut rester mobile ou immobile. On peut prévoir un appareil portatif sur lequel la sonde est immobile mais que l'utilisateur passera sur les fibres capillaires. Thus, the ultrasound probe can remain mobile or stationary. We can provide a portable device on which the probe is stationary but that the user will pass on the hair fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation, l'étape d'application sur les fibres capillaires de la composition est choisie parmi au moins l'une des étapes suivantes : application de la composition comprenant un agent de coloration permanente, semi permanente ou fugace, application de la composition comprenant un soin des fibres capillaires, application de la composition comprenant un agent de décoloration des fibres capillaires, application de la composition comprenant un agent fixateur des fibres capillaires Selon un mode de réalisation, l'application sur les fibres capillaires de la composition se fait de manière à maîtriser précisément l'épaisseur déposée de la composition afin d'optimiser l'action des ultrasons. According to one embodiment, the step of applying to the hair fibers of the composition is chosen from at least one of the following steps: application of the composition comprising a permanent, semi-permanent or fugitive coloring agent, application of the composition comprising a care of the hair fibers, application of the composition comprising a hair-color bleaching agent, application of the composition comprising a hair-fiber fixing agent According to one embodiment, the application to the hair fibers of the composition is carried out in order to precisely control the deposited thickness of the composition in order to optimize the action of ultrasound.

Selon un mode de réalisation, la puissance des ultrasons est fixée afin de produire l'effet de cavitation en fonction d'au moins un des paramètres suivants: la concentration du ou des actifs cosmétiques présents dans la composition, la viscosité de la composition, l'impédance acoustique de la composition, l'épaisseur de la mèche de fibres capillaires à traiter, la couleur avant traitement des fibres capillaires. According to one embodiment, the power of the ultrasound is set in order to produce the cavitation effect as a function of at least one of the following parameters: the concentration of the cosmetic active agent (s) present in the composition, the viscosity of the composition, the acoustic impedance of the composition, the thickness of the wick of capillary fibers to be treated, the color before treatment of the hair fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation, la distance entre la source d'ultrasons et les fibres capillaires est comprise entre 0 et 5mm bornes comprises, ou entre 0,5mm et 5mm bornes comprises, de préférence égale à 1 mm. Selon l'invention, la sonde ultrasons peut ne pas être en contact avec les fibres capillaires. According to one embodiment, the distance between the ultrasonic source and the capillary fibers is between 0 and 5 mm inclusive, or between 0.5 mm and 5 mm inclusive, preferably equal to 1 mm. According to the invention, the ultrasound probe may not be in contact with the hair fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend une étape de formation d'une mèche plane de fibres capillaires, préférentiellement en amont de l'étape d'insonification de la mèche. Ceci permet une insonification plus répartie des fibres capillaires Selon un mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend une étape de calibrage de l'épaisseur de la mèche de fibres capillaires. Ceci permet une insonification plus reproductible des fibres capillaires. According to one embodiment, the method comprises a training step a planar wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick. This allows a more distributed insonification of the hair fibers. According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of calibrating the thickness of the hair of capillary fibers. This allows a more reproducible insonification of the hair fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend une étape de peignage de la mèche de fibres capillaires, préférentiellement en amont de l'étape d'insonification de la mèche. Ceci permet une insonification plus homogène des fibres capillaires. According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of combing the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick. This allows a more homogeneous insonification of the hair fibers.

Selon un mode de réalisation, le procédé comprend une étape de calibrage de l'épaisseur de la mèche de fibres capillaires, préférentiellement en amont de l'étape d'insonification de la mèche. According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of calibrating the thickness of the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick.

L'étape de peignage peut être conduite avec la formation d'une mèche plane et/ou avec le calibrage de l'épaisseur de la mèche, simultanément ou non. The combing step can be conducted with the formation of a planar wick and / or with the calibration of the thickness of the wick, simultaneously or not.

L'application des ultrasons peut être mise en œuvre à l'aide de tout appareil connu en soi pour générer des ultrasons en mode cavitation selon le procédé de l'invention. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, cet appareil est portable, c'est à dire que le dispositif permettant de générer les ultrasons est en contact avec la partie du dispositif comprenant les orifices de distribution du produit cosmétique. The application of ultrasound can be implemented using any device known per se for generating ultrasound in cavitation mode according to the method of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, this device is portable, that is to say that the device for generating the ultrasound is in contact with the portion of the device comprising the dispensing orifices of the cosmetic product.

Les exemples qui suivent illustrent le procédé de l'invention mis en œuvre dans plusieurs applications cosmétiques capillaires. The examples which follow illustrate the process of the invention used in several cosmetic hair applications.

L'invention a montré d'excellents résultats notamment dans le domaine de la coloration des cheveux, complète ou partielle (mèches). La mise en œuvre de la coloration de cheveux est une manipulation contraignante. La spoliation de l'environnement est aussi une contrainte d'usage dans le salon du professionnel comme à domicile. Le temps nécessaire est généralement long, en particulier le temps de pause est une contrainte assez lourde. Le temps de contact avec les produits chimiques constituant les mélanges de coloration sont longs et de ce fait ils peuvent être agressifs aussi bien pour le cuir chevelu que pour les cheveux. II existe différents types de produits de coloration: The invention has shown excellent results especially in the field of hair coloring, complete or partial (locks). The implementation of hair coloring is a restrictive manipulation. Spoliation of the environment is also a constraint of use in the salon of the professional as at home. The time required is usually long, especially the break time is a pretty heavy constraint. The contact time with the chemicals constituting the coloring mixtures are long and therefore they can be aggressive for both the scalp and the hair. There are different types of coloring products:

• Produit de coloration dit fugace qui s'élimine seule de façon naturelle après quelques semaines ; le retour à la coloration naturelle est assuré. Les colorants sont déposés au niveau de la cuticule.  • Product of so-called fugitive coloring which is eliminated naturally in a few weeks; the return to natural color is assured. The dyes are deposited at the level of the cuticle.

• Produit de coloration semi permanente, les colorants se déposent directement en surface du cheveu et s'installent à la périphérie du cortex.  • Product of semi permanent coloring, the dyes are deposited directly on the surface of the hair and settle on the periphery of the cortex.

• Produit de coloration permanente : leur formulation implique une attaque plus importante de la kératine du cheveu de façon à faire pénétrer les colorants dans les cheveux. Il assure un gonflement du cheveu en milieu alcalin qui favorise la pénétration des colorants (les précurseurs) pendant le temps de pause.  • Permanent coloring product: their formulation involves a greater attack of the keratin of the hair so as to penetrate the dyes in the hair. It ensures a swelling of the hair in an alkaline medium that promotes the penetration of dyes (precursors) during the break time.

• Un soin ou un shampoing approprié viendra ensuite « fixer » la coloration du cheveu en refermant les écailles.  • A proper care or shampoo will then "fix" the color of the hair by closing the scales.

Quel que soit le produit utilisé pour effectuer la coloration, la méthode préconisée est quasiment identique. La formulation des produits est conçue pour assurer la coloration en une seule étape. Les produits se présentent sous forme de 2 produits qui doivent être mélangés préalablement. Le mélange doit être utilisé dans les 30 minutes. Whatever the product used to perform the coloring, the recommended method is almost identical. The product formulation is designed to provide single-step coloring. The products are in the form of 2 products that must be mixed beforehand. The mixture should be used within 30 minutes.

Cette opération implique un temps de pause de 20 à 30 minutes. This operation involves a break time of 20 to 30 minutes.

Le cheveu est malgré l'amélioration des formules de ces produits, plus ou moins dégradé par cette opération. La coloration permanente est la plus agressive. The hair is despite the improvement of the formulas of these products, more or less degraded by this operation. Permanent coloring is the most aggressive.

Dans l'objectif de faciliter cette opération, et/ou de limiter l'exposition du cheveu aux produits chimiques, les inventeurs ont pensé à deux procédés différents préconisant l'utilisation d'une source ultrasonore pour favoriser la coloration des cheveux, en permettant soit une meilleure pénétration soit une meilleur accroche des composés assurant la coloration.  In order to facilitate this operation, and / or to limit the exposure of the hair to the chemicals, the inventors have thought of two different methods recommending the use of an ultrasonic source to promote the coloration of the hair, allowing either a better penetration is a better grip of the compounds ensuring the coloring.

Exemple de procédé 1 : Process example 1:

L'étape application s'effectue comme suit : le produit est appliqué sur la chevelure soit manuellement (au pinceau par exemple) soit au moyen d'un appareil facilitant la dépose. Le produit cosmétique doit être réparti uniformément sur chaque mèche. Le produit cosmétique doit gainer le cheveu. Le produit cosmétique peut être appliqué par l'appareil qui insonifie la mèche ou par un dispositif indépendant. The application step is as follows: the product is applied to the hair either manually (with a brush for example) or by means of a device facilitating the removal. The cosmetic product must be evenly distributed on each wick. The cosmetic product must shrink the hair. The cosmetic product can be applied by the device which insonifies the wick or by an independent device.

L'étape d'insonification s'effectue comme suit: le dispositif ultrasonore est appliqué sur les cheveux immédiatement après l'enduction. La sonde ultrasonore est placée à proximité de la surface du cheveu. La formulation du produit cosmétique et la puissance utilisée sont telles que nous sommes en situation de cavitation.  The insonification step is carried out as follows: the ultrasound device is applied to the hair immediately after the coating. The ultrasound probe is placed near the surface of the hair. The formulation of the cosmetic product and the power used are such that we are in a situation of cavitation.

Le dispositif ultrasonore est appliqué mèche par mèche sur toute la chevelure pendant au maximum 5 minutes sur chaque zone.  The ultrasound device is wicked on the whole hair for a maximum of 5 minutes on each zone.

L'étape possible de rinçage : les cheveux sont ensuite rincés à l'eau claire et on procède au shampoing comme prévu par le fabricant du produit de coloration.  The possible step of rinsing: the hair is then rinsed with clear water and shampooed as planned by the manufacturer of the coloring product.

Il a été constaté par les inventeurs que les ultrasons dans une situation de cavitation permettent selon le type de produit : It has been found by the inventors that ultrasound in a cavitation situation allow, depending on the type of product:

-de provoquer des ouvertures au niveau de la cuticule et favoriser la migration à l'intérieur des cheveux.  - cause openings in the cuticle and promote migration to the interior of the hair.

- de soulever des écailles et de favoriser l'accrochage du colorant à la périphérie du cheveu ou au niveau de la cuticule. La puissance ultrasonore doit être suffisante pour provoquer cette cavitation. Les bulles de cavitation constituent des microréacteurs chimiques dans lesquelles sont atteintes des températures et des pressions très élevées, juste avant leur implosion. Lorsque les bulles de cavitation rencontrent une surface solide, elles implosent sur cette surface en formant des micro jets de liquide très violents et modifient de ce fait, l'état de surface et la perméabilité de ladite surface. La viscosité des produits colorants existant dans le commerce convient pour obtenir ces phénomènes de cavitation. - To lift scales and promote the attachment of the dye at the periphery of the hair or at the level of the cuticle. The ultrasonic power must be sufficient to cause this cavitation. Cavitation bubbles are chemical microreactors in which very high temperatures and pressures are reached just before their implosion. When the cavitation bubbles meet a solid surface, they implode on this surface by forming micro-jets of very violent liquid and thereby modify the surface state and the permeability of said surface. The viscosity of the commercially available coloring products is suitable for obtaining these cavitation phenomena.

II a été constaté par les inventeurs que le gonflement de la fibre provoqué par les produits de coloration permanente va augmenter la pénétration des molécules colorantes quelle que soit leur taille. It has been found by the inventors that the swelling of the fiber caused by the permanent coloring products will increase the penetration of coloring molecules irrespective of their size.

Sous l'action des ultrasons, les pigments de coloration vont pénétrer ou s'accumuler plus rapidement dans ou sur les cheveux. La concentration de pigment ainsi déposée est plus importante dans un temps donné, la tonalité obtenue est dans tous les cas plus élevée et plus intense après traitement ultrasonore. Avec ce procédé sur une zone donnée, le temps de traitement est strictement inférieur à 5 minutes pour des colorants tels que formulés aujourd'hui, alors que dans un usage conventionnel il faut 20 à 30 mn. Under the action of ultrasound, the coloring pigments will penetrate or accumulate more quickly in or on the hair. The concentration of pigment thus deposited is greater in a given time, the tone obtained is in all cases higher and more intense after ultrasonic treatment. With this method on a given area, the treatment time is strictly less than 5 minutes for dyes as formulated today, whereas in conventional use it takes 20 to 30 minutes.

Le temps d'application est d'environ 1 à 4 minutes pour obtenir, avec des shampoings colorants du commerce ou utilisés par les professionnels, un niveau de coloration équivalent à celui obtenu dans des conditions normales d'usage.  The application time is about 1 to 4 minutes to obtain, with commercially available color shampoos or used by professionals, a level of coloration equivalent to that obtained under normal conditions of use.

Les inventeurs ont vérifié que l'on peut avantageusement diminuer la concentration de ces produits et augmenter sensiblement le temps de traitement ou le temps de pause pour un niveau de coloration donnée dans l'objectif de limiter la dégradation des cheveux et d'assurer une meilleure protection du cuir chevelu. tl a aussi été démontré, par mesure de la rémanence de la coloration, que l'utilisation des ultrasons dans certaines conditions précises notamment dans des conditions de cavitation permet d'obtenir une couleur plus « profonde »et plus « intense » avec une meilleure tenue dans le temps au fil des shampoings. La méthode/procédé numéro 2 relative à cette utilisation est décrite ci-après. The inventors have verified that the concentration of these products can be advantageously reduced and the treatment time or the pause time for a given level of coloration can be increased substantially in order to limit the degradation of the hair and to ensure a better quality. protection of the scalp. It has also been demonstrated, by virtue of the persistence of the coloration, that the use of ultrasound under certain precise conditions, in particular under cavitation conditions, makes it possible to obtain a "deeper" and "more intense" color with better hold. in time over the shampoos. The method / method number 2 relating to this use is described below.

Exemple de procédé 2: Process example 2:

L'étape d'application est la même que pour l'exemple 1. The application step is the same as for example 1.

L'étape d'insonification envisage deux cas:  The insonification stage considers two cases:

L'étape d'insonification est appliquée en fin du temps de pause préconisé par le fabricant. La sonde ultrasonore est placée à proximité de la surface du cheveu. La formulation du produit cosmétique et la puissance utilisée sont telles que nous sommes en situation de cavitation. Le dispositif ultrasonore est appliqué mèche par mèche sur toute la chevelure pendant au maximum 5 minutes sur chaque zone.  The insonification step is applied at the end of the break time recommended by the manufacturer. The ultrasound probe is placed near the surface of the hair. The formulation of the cosmetic product and the power used are such that we are in a situation of cavitation. The ultrasound device is wicked on the whole hair for a maximum of 5 minutes on each zone.

Les cheveux sont ensuite rincés à l'eau claire et on procède au shampoing comme prévu usuellement.  The hair is then rinsed with clear water and shampooing is done as usual.

Les paramètres utilisés dans chacun des deux exemples sont les suivants pour l'insonification : The parameters used in each of the two examples are as follows for insonification:

- la fréquence ultrasonore utilisée du transducteur est environ égale à 45kHz ;  the ultrasonic frequency used of the transducer is approximately equal to 45 kHz;

- la puissance de la sonde est de 1 à 30 watts acoustiques préférentiellement 18W ;  the power of the probe is from 1 to 30 acoustic watts, preferably 18W;

- La taille de la sonde sera de 1 à 10 cm2 ; - The size of the probe will be 1 to 10 cm 2 ;

- la puissance surfacique sera de 0.5W /cm2 à 20W/cm2' préférentiellement 2.5W/cm2 pour appliquer suffisamment d'énergie pour provoquer la cavitation; - The pfd will be 0.5W / cm 2 at 20W / cm 2 ' preferably 2.5W / cm 2 to apply enough energy to cause cavitation;

- mode puisé 0.5s on/0.5s off; - la distance entre la sonde ultrasonore et la surface de la mèche traitée est d'environ 1mm. - pulsed mode 0.5s on / 0.5s off; the distance between the ultrasound probe and the surface of the treated lock is about 1 mm.

Le temps d'insonification par zone varie de 10 secondes à 10 minutes préférentieilement entre 1 et 4 minutes.  The insonification time per zone varies from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably between 1 and 4 minutes.

Après plusieurs shampooings, on constate une meilleure ténacité de la couleur sur les cheveux traités, grâce à la cavitation créée en surface des fibres capillaires et qui conduit à une microperforation temporaire de la cuticule permettant la migration du cosmétique au cœur du cheveu. Pour mémoire la cuticule est la périphérie du cheveu, elle protège la partie interne du cheveu contre l'environnement extérieur et les dégradations provoquées par les traitements quotidiens, les rayons du soleil et l'humidité. D'une épaisseur de 3 à 5 μm, elle représente environ 10% de la masse du cheveu et se compose d'une dizaine de couches de cellules de kératine. Ces cellules, chacune d'une épaisseur d'environ 0.5 μm, sont imbriquées les unes par rapport aux autres comme des ardoises sur un toit et également reliées au cortex. Elles sont reliées à la fois entre elles et au cortex. After several shampoos, there is a better tenacity of the color on the treated hair, thanks to the cavitation created on the surface of the hair fibers and which leads to a temporary microperforation of the cuticle allowing the migration of the cosmetic to the heart of the hair. As a reminder, the cuticle is the periphery of the hair, it protects the inner part of the hair against the external environment and the damage caused by daily treatments, sunlight and humidity. With a thickness of 3 to 5 μm, it represents approximately 10% of the mass of the hair and is composed of a dozen layers of keratin cells. These cells, each of a thickness of about 0.5 microns, are interlaced with each other like slates on a roof and also connected to the cortex. They are connected both to each other and to the cortex.

Les résultats montrent que l'invention favorise la répartition du produit sur le cheveu et favorise la pénétration ou /et la fixation des produits sur le cheveu. The results show that the invention promotes the distribution of the product on the hair and promotes the penetration and / or fixing of the products on the hair.

La source à ultrasons peut être intégrée dans un peigne ou une brosse pour être plus proche du cheveu. La source vient à proximité du cheveu. Elle peut même venir au contact du cheveu. The ultrasound source can be integrated into a comb or brush to be closer to the hair. The source comes close to the hair. It can even come into contact with the hair.

La source à ultrasons peut aussi être intégrée dans une pince lissante ou à boucler ou à gaufrer. Dans le cas d'usage concomitant d'un cosmétique approprié tel qu'un produit assurant la tenue du lissage ou la protection du cheveu, la source peut avantageusement être intégrée au niveau de la plaque chauffante et assurer le traitement de la mèche en même temps que le lissage et la protection du cheveu le cas échéant. Pour une pince lissante par exemple, une surface plane peut être prévue pour rentrer en contact avec la mèche et se déplacer dessus, la surface étant telle qu'elle permet une émission de puissance suffisante pour atteindre la cavitation. Une combinaison avec un peigne pourrait favoriser la répartition au sein de la mèche. The ultrasound source can also be integrated in a pliers smoothing or curling or embossing. In the case of concomitant use of a suitable cosmetic such as a product ensuring the maintenance of the smoothing or the protection of the hair, the source can advantageously be integrated at the level of the heating plate and ensure the treatment of the wick at the same time as smoothing and protection of the hair as appropriate. For smoothing forceps, for example, a flat surface may be provided for coming into contact with the wick and moving over it, the surface being such as to allow sufficient power output to reach cavitation. Combination with a comb may favor distribution within the wick.

A côté de la source peut être prévu un dispositif humidificateur ou d'enduction d'un liquide ou d'un gel ou un dispositif contenant un bain de la composition destinée à recevoir la mèche. Beside the source may be provided a humidifying device or coating a liquid or a gel or a device containing a bath of the composition for receiving the wick.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS 1. Procédé de traitement des fibres capillaires qui comprend : A method of treating hair fibers which comprises: -l'application sur des fibres capillaires d'une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs actifs cosmétiques, puis the application to hair fibers of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients, and - l'insonification des fibres enduites ou à enduire de la composition,  the insonification of the fibers coated or to be coated with the composition, - l'application et l'insonification étant dissociées l'une de l'autre,  - the application and the insonification being dissociated from one another, caractérisé en ce que characterized in that l'insonification est effectuée de façon telle à créer à la surface des fibres un phénomène de cavitation. the insonification is carried out in such a way as to create on the surface of the fibers a phenomenon of cavitation. 2. Procédé selon la revendication 1 où l'application de la composition est pratiquée avant l'insonification des fibres enduites. 2. The method of claim 1 wherein the application of the composition is performed before the insonification of the coated fibers. 3. Procédé selon la revendication 2 où l'application de la composition est pratiquée immédiatement avant, l'insonification des fibres enduites. 3. The method of claim 2 wherein the application of the composition is practiced immediately before, the insonification of the coated fibers. 4. Procédé selon une des deux revendications précédentes où l'insonification est pratiquée en début de la période pendant laquelle les fibres sont enduites de la composition. 4. Method according to one of the two preceding claims wherein the insonification is practiced at the beginning of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition. 5. Procédé selon la revendication 2 ou 3 où l'insonification est pratiquée en fin de la période pendant laquelle les fibres sont enduites de la composition. 5. The method of claim 2 or 3 wherein the insonification is performed at the end of the period during which the fibers are coated with the composition. 6. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la durée d'insonification est supérieure ou égale à 1 seconde et inférieure à 5 minutes, préférentiellement comprise entre 1 et 2 minutes. 6. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the duration of insonification is greater than or equal to 1 second and less than 5 minutes, preferably between 1 and 2 minutes. 7. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la durée d'insonification est inférieure à un sixième de la durée d'application de la composition. 7. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the duration of insonification is less than one sixth of the duration of application of the composition. 8. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où l'insonification est appliquée en mode puisé, préférentiellement avec des pulsations de 0,5 secondes. 8. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insonification is applied in pulsed mode, preferably with pulsations of 0.5 seconds. 9. Procédé selon une des revendications 1 à 7 où l'insonification est appliquée en mode continu. 9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the insonification is applied in continuous mode. 10. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où l'étape d'insonification est suivie d'une étape de rinçage de cette composition avec de l'eau et/ou un shampoing. 10. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insonification step is followed by a step of rinsing this composition with water and / or shampoo. 11. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la fréquence ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 1 OkHz et 30OkHz, préférentiellement égale à environ 45kHz. 11. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the ultrasonic frequency used is between 1 OkHz and 30OkHz, preferably equal to about 45kHz. 12. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la puissance ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 1W et 3OW, préférentiellement inférieure ou égale à environ 18W. 12. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the ultrasonic power used is between 1W and 3OW, preferably less than or equal to about 18W. 13. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la puissance surfacique ultrasonore utilisée est comprise entre 0,5W/cm2 et13. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the ultrasonic surface power used is between 0.5W / cm 2 and 20W/cm2, préférentiellement inférieure ou égale à environ 2,5W/cm2. 20W / cm 2 , preferably less than or equal to about 2.5W / cm 2 . 14. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où l'insonification est conduite sur les fibres de façon mobile avec une vitesse de déplacement comprise entre 0,1 mm/s et 5cm/s. 14. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insonification is conducted on the fibers in a mobile manner with a movement speed of between 0.1 mm / s and 5 cm / s. 15. Procédé selon la revendication précédente où l'insonification est effectuée en un seul passage sur la mèche enduite de fibres capillaires. 15. Method according to the preceding claim wherein the insonification is carried out in a single pass on the wick coated with hair fibers. 16. Procédé selon la revendication 14 dans lequel l'insonification est effectuée en au moins deux passages sur la mèche enduite de fibres capillaires. 16. The method of claim 14 wherein the insonification is carried out in at least two passes on the wick coated with hair fibers. 17. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes où l'étape d'application sur les fibres capillaires de la composition est choisie parmi au moins l'une des étapes suivantes : application de la composition comprenant un agent de coloration permanente, semi permanente ou fugace, application de la composition comprenant un soin des fibres capillaires, application de la composition comprenant un agent de décoloration des fibres capillaires, application de la composition comprenant un agent fixateur des fibres capillaires. 17. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the step of applying to the hair fibers of the composition is selected from at least one of the following steps: application of the composition comprising a permanent dyeing agent, semi permanent or fugitive, application of the composition comprising care of the hair fibers, application of the composition comprising a bleaching agent of the hair fibers, application of the composition comprising a hair fiber fixing agent. 18. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la puissance des ultrasons est fixée afin de produire l'effet de cavitation en fonction d'au moins un des paramètres suivants: la concentration du ou des actifs cosmétiques présents dans la composition, la viscosité de la composition, l'impédance acoustique de la composition, l'épaisseur de la mèche de fibres capillaires à traiter, la couleur avant traitement des fibres capillaires. 18. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the power of the ultrasound is set so as to produce the cavitation effect as a function of at least one of the following parameters: the concentration of the cosmetic active agent (s) present in the composition, the viscosity of the composition, the acoustic impedance of the composition, the thickness of the wick of hair fibers to be treated, the color before treatment of the hair fibers. 19. Procédé selon une des revendications précédentes où la distance entre la source d'ultrasons et les fibres capillaires est comprise entre 0 et 5mm bornes comprises, de préférence égale à 1 mm. 19. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the distance between the ultrasonic source and the capillary fibers is between 0 and 5 mm inclusive, preferably equal to 1 mm. 20. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes comprenant une étape de peignage de la mèche de fibres capillaires, préférentiellement en amont de l'étape d'insonification de la mèche. 20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of combing the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick. 21. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes comprenant une étape de calibrage de l'épaisseur de la mèche de fibres capillaires, préférentiellement en amont de l'étape d'insonification de la mèche. 21. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of calibrating the thickness of the wick of capillary fibers, preferably upstream of the step of insonification of the wick.
PCT/FR2010/051324 2009-06-29 2010-06-25 Method for treating hair with ultrasounds Ceased WO2011001084A2 (en)

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