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WO2011061672A1 - Mélange de solvants à base d'hydrocarbures - Google Patents

Mélange de solvants à base d'hydrocarbures Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011061672A1
WO2011061672A1 PCT/IB2010/055173 IB2010055173W WO2011061672A1 WO 2011061672 A1 WO2011061672 A1 WO 2011061672A1 IB 2010055173 W IB2010055173 W IB 2010055173W WO 2011061672 A1 WO2011061672 A1 WO 2011061672A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
mixture
equal
tetradecane
alkanes
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PCT/IB2010/055173
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English (en)
Inventor
Mireille Maubru
Florence Levy
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel mixture of alkanes, as well as its use as solvent in cosmetic and/or dermatologicai compositions. It also relates to cosmetic and/or dermatologicai compositions comprising said mixture.
  • Cosmetic and/or dermatologicai compositions often comprise a fatty phase containing a volatile solvent. In fact, this enables the properties of the product to develop during and after deposition, leading then, depending on the cosmetic product in question, to properties of comfort or of texture during application of the product, durability of the deposited product, as well as to specific mechanical or optical properties of the deposits. It may also participate in dissolution of active substances and/or dispersion of solid particles in the composition.
  • Volatile solvents are used conventionally in the fields of care, hygiene, hair products, perfumes and make-up, in very varied galenic forms: direct or inverted emulsions, anhydrous pastes, anhydrous sticks, solid emulsions, etc.
  • compositions having at least some of the properties mentioned above.
  • volatile solvents that further satisfy current legislation concerning volatile organic compounds (VOC), and notably volatile solvents having a boiling point above 216°C at atmospheric pressure and a saturated vapour pressure below 0.1 mmlig at 20°C.
  • VOC volatile organic compounds
  • compositions with excellent cosmetic properties such as good spreading and/or non-greasy feel and/or comfort and/or non- transfer and/or non-migration for example.
  • This list of properties is not exhaustive and more generally, the particular mixture of alkanes considered according to the invention has good compatibility with other constituents usually present in cosmetic and/or dermatologicai compositions and endows the composition with most of the properties conventionally desired.
  • the present invention thus relates, according to one of its aspects, to a mixture of alkanes comprising at least n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, characterized in that n- dodecane and n-tetradecane represent at least 90 wt.% of said mixture and in that the content by weight of n-tetradecane in said mixture is strictly above 50 wt.%, relative to the total weight of said mixture.
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention has a boiling point above 216°C at atmospheric pressure and a saturated vapour pressure below 0.1 mmHg at 20°C, while endowing the compositions in which it is formulated with good cosmetic properties.
  • the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one mixture of alkanes as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least:
  • n-dodecane and n-tetradecane represent at least 90 wt.% of said mixture and in which the content by weight of n-tetradecane is greater than or equal to 40 wt.% relative to the total weight of said mixture, and
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention comprises at least n-dodecane and n-tetradecane in proportions representing at least 90 wt.% of said mixture.
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention can comprise at least 95 wt.%, in particular at least 97 wt.%, relative to its total weight, of n-dodecane and of n-tetradecane.
  • the content by weight of n-tetradecane in the mixture of alkanes according to the invention is strictly above 50 wt.%, relative to the weight of said mixture. It is therefore in particular strictly greater than the content by weight of n-dodecane in said mixture.
  • the content by weight of n-tetradecane can be for example greater than or equal to 52 wt.%, for example between 52 and 98 wt.%, in particular greater than or equal to 54 wt.%, for example between 54 and 96 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 56 wt.%, for example between 56 and 94 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 60 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 70 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 80 wt.%, for example greater than, or equal to 90 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes according to the invention. .
  • the content by weight of n-dodecane can be for example less than o equal to 48 wt.%, for example between 2 and 48 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 46 wt.%, for example between 4 and 46 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 44 wt.%, for example between 6 and 44 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 40 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 30 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 20 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes according to the invention.
  • the [n-tetradecane/n-dodecane] weight ratio can for example be from 1,01 to
  • n-dodecane and the n-tetradecane that can be used to form the mixture of alkanes according to the invention can be of natural or synthetic origin. They can advantageously be of vegetable origin.
  • n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by the company.
  • SASOL or under the references Vegelight 12 or Vegelight 12-99 by the company Bio syntis and the n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by the company SASOL or under the reference Vegelight 14 by the company Biosynthis.
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention is constituted solely of n- dodecane and n-tetradecane.
  • the proportion of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane represents about 100 wt.% of said mixture.
  • n-tetradecane can represent 51 to 98 wt.% of said mixture, preferably from 51 to 90 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 51 to 80 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 51 to 70 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 51 to 60 wt.% of said mixture, or even from 52 to 55 wt.% of said mixture, and n-dodecane from 2 to 49 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 10 to 49 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 20 to 49 wt.% of said mixture, for example from 30 to 49 wt.% of said mixture, preferably from 40 to 49 wt.%, or even from 45 to 48 wt.% of said mixture.
  • impurities such as other hydrocarbons (notably decane, hexane or isododecane) can however be present at trace levels, i.e. in proportions below 5 wt.%), for example below 3 wt.%, preferably below 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of said mixture.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a mixture of alkanes as defined previously as a solvent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one mixture of alkanes as defined previously.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is non-toxic and can be applied on the skin, notably of the body, hands, neck, face, lips and/or keratin fibres, of human beings.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the substrate on which the composition is to be applied as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged.
  • Oils can be classified in two categories, namely volatile or non-volatile, depending on the value of their rate of evaporation evaluated according to the following protocol.
  • the rates of evaporation are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit area (cm 2 ) and per unit time (minute).
  • the volatile oils are those for which measurement of evaporation gives values in the range from 0.01 to 200 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • dodecafluoropentane has a rate of 171.26 rag/cm 2 /min and diethyl dodecane a rate of 0.003 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one additional volatile oil different from the mixture of aikanes considered according to the invention.
  • Volatile oil means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that may evaporate when in contact with the skin or keratin fibres, and in particular oils for which measurement of evaporation according to the protocol described above gives values in the range from 0.01 to 200 mg/cm 2 /min,
  • cyclic or non-cyclic silicone volatile oils or non-silicone volatile oils, notably selected from hydrocarbon or fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • cyclic or non-cyclic silicone volatile oils we may notably mention linear ones having a viscosity ⁇ 6 centistokes (6. 0 "6 m 2 /s), and notably having from 3 to 10 silicon atoms, said silicones optionally having one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 or 2 carbon atoms.
  • silicone volatile oils usable in the invention, we may notably mention octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyi cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamefhyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyi tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-cyclic silicone volatile oils can also be selected from the linear or branched silicone volatile oils.
  • the additional volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and notably branched C 8 -C j alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars ® or Permethyls ® .
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and notably branched C 8 -C j alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars ® or Permethyls ® .
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from:
  • esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl represents a hydrogen atom H or a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical and R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, provided that
  • Rl and R2 when Rl and R2 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ 8;
  • Rl and/or R2 when Rl and/or R2 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 10 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ l l .
  • Rl and R2 when Rl and R2 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 10 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ l l ;
  • Rl and/or R2 when branched, they each contain from 1 to 12 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ 13.
  • Rl and R2 when Rl and R2 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ 8; and - when l and/or R2 are branched, they each contain from 1. to 8 carbon atoms with Rl + R2 ⁇ 10.
  • Rl and R2 are selected independently of one another and are two separate radicals, i.e. they are not joined together by a covalent bond.
  • Rl and R2 are alkyl radicals.
  • composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the latter can in particular be selected from non-volatile hydrocai'bon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils.
  • Non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibres, and more generally on keratinous materials, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least for several hours.
  • a non- volatile oil can also be defined as having a rate of evaporation such that in the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.002 mg/cm 2 /min according to the protocol defined previously.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oil we may notably mention:
  • oils of vegetable origin such as the triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, where the fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C 4 to C 2 4 ; and the latter can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic, octanoic acids; these oils are notably wheat-germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, karite oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, colza oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, Chinese squash oil, sesame oil, squash oil, colza oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil,
  • oils of animal origin such as mink oil, turtle oil, perhydrosqualene,
  • esters of fatty acid in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and notably of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolin acid, oleic acid, Iauric acid, stearic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly-glyceryl 2- diisostearate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate,
  • esters such as the oils of formula R[COOR 2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Rj + R 2 is > 11, for example purcelline oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate of C 12 to C 15 alcohol, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate
  • esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyihydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, glycerol or diglycerol triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and
  • esters of pentaerythritol esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, notably tridecyl trimellitate,
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol;
  • Cs-C 2 6 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid;
  • the non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimetbicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimetbicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, di
  • composition according to the invention can comprise, as non- volatile oil, at least one dry oil as defined below.
  • “Dry oil” means, in the sense of the present application, an oil selected from oils having a viscosity less than or equal to 0.01 Pa.s (10 Cps), notably ' in the range from 0.003 to 0.01 Pa.s, a surface tension between 21 and 31 mN/m and a rate of evaporation below 0.002 m.g/cm 2 /min measured according to the protocol described above.
  • the preferred dry oils are aprotic oils having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Aprotic oil means an oil comprising few or no hydrogen atoms bound to a strongly electronegative atom such as O or N.
  • aprotic oil means oils that can comprise, depending on the yield in their synthesis, residual groups bearing a labile hydrogen atom (for example residual groups OH, NH, and/or COOH) at a content less than or equal to 5% by number.
  • ester oils such, as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, etliyl-2-hexyl benzoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, ethyl-2-hexyI ethyl-2-hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, - ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC),
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the inventors found, surprisingly, that the combination of a particular mixture of alkanes and of a dry oil in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition led to particularly advantageous properties, notably in terms of organoleptic sensations.
  • the invention also relates, according to one of its aspects, to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising a mixture of alkanes as defined previously and at least one dry oil.
  • the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least: a mixture of alkanes comprising at least n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, in which n-dodecane and n-tetradecane represent at least 90 wt.% of said mixture and in which the content by weight of n-tetradecane is greater than or equal to 40 wt.% relative to the total weight of said mixture, and
  • the mixture of alkanes can also comprise at least 95 wt.%, in particular at least 97 wt.%, of n-dodecane and of n- tetradecane, relative to its total weight.
  • the content by weight of n-tetradecane in this mixture can be for example greater than or equal to 40 wt.%, for example between 40 and 98 wt.%, in particular greater than or equal to 42 wt.%, for example between 42 and 96 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 44 wt.%, for example between 44 and 94 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 46 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 48 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 50 wt.%, relative to the total weight of said mixture of alkanes.
  • the content by weight of n-dodecane in this mixture can be for example less than or equal to 60 wt.%, for example between 2 and 60 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 58 wt.%, for example between 4 and 58 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 56 wt.%, for example between 6 and 56 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 54 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 52 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 50 wt.%, relative to the total weight of said mixture of alkanes.
  • the [n-tetradecane/n-dodecane] weight ratio in this mixture can for example be from 0.65 to 9, for example from 0.7 to 4, for example from 0.8 to 3, for example from 0.9 to 2, for example from 0.92 to 1 :80, preferably from 0.94 to 1.60, and in particular- from 0.96 to 1.4, or can even be of the order of 1.
  • It can notably comprise a mixture of alkanes constituted of 50 wt.% of n- tetradecane and.50 wt.% of n-dodecane.
  • the content by weight of n-tetradecane can be for example greater than or equal to 52 wt.%, for example between 52 and 98 wt.%), in particular greater than or equal to 54 wt.%, for example between 54 and 96 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 56 wt.%, for example between 56 and 94 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 6.0 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 70 wt.%, for example greater than or equal, to 80 wt.%, for example greater than or equal to 90 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes according to the invention.
  • the content by weight of n-dodecane can be for example less than or equal to 48 wt.%, for example between 2 and 48 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 46 wt.%, for example between 4 and 46.wt.%, for example less than or equal to 44 wt.%, for example between 6 and 44 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 40 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 30 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 20 wt.%, for example less than or equal to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes according to the invention.
  • the [n-tetradecane/n-dodecane] weight ratio can for example be from 1.01 to 9, for example from 1.01 to 4, for example from 1.01 to 3, for example from 1.01 to 2, for example from 1.01 to 1.80, preferably from 1.02 to 1.60, and in particular from 1.05 to 1.4.
  • Solid fats
  • composition according to the invention can comprise, in particular when it is a lipstick, a mascara (in particular waterproof) or a foundation, at least one fat that is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure; it can be selected from waxes, pasty fats, gums and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one fatty compound that is pasty at room temperature.
  • “Pasty fat” means, in the sense of the invention, fats having a melting point in the range from 20 to 55°C, in particular 25 to 45°C and/or a viscosity at 40°C in the range from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), in particular 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with the Contraves TV or Rheomat 80, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
  • a person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity, from spindles MS-r3 and MS- r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to perform measurements on the pasty compound being tested.
  • these fats can be hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be selected from silicone compounds; they can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds.
  • a mixture of different pasty fats preferably pasty hydrocarbon compounds are used (containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), as the main constituent.
  • “Wax” means, within the scope of the present invention, generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or non-deformable, with reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can be up to 200°C and notably up to 120°C.
  • waxes suitable for the invention can have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the designation "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is submitted to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/rainute, then it is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is submitted to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power in function of the temperature.
  • waxes of animal origin such as beeswaxes, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork- fibre or sugarcane waxes, - mineral waxes, for example from paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,
  • silicone waxes in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; we may mention, for example, polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as the C30-C45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW CORNING,
  • Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase
  • composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water.
  • the water can be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a thermal water.
  • the aqueous phase can also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at 25°C), for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, Ci to C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents that are miscible with water (at 25°C)
  • primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, Ci to C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition can be an anhydrous composition, i.e. a composition containing less than 2 wt.% of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, notably water-free, the water not having been added during preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water supplied by the ingredients of the mixture.
  • Particulate phase i.e. a composition containing less than 2 wt.% of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, notably water-free, the water not having been added during preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water supplied by the ingredients of the mixture.
  • composition of the invention can further comprise, especially when it is a lipstick, a foundation, or a mascara, an additional particulate phase.
  • It can notably comprise pigments and/or nacres and/or supplementary fillers used in cosmetic compositions.
  • Pigments are to be understood as white or coloured particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the hydrophilic liquid phase as well as in the lipophilic phase, intended for colouring and/or opacifying the composition.
  • Fillers are to be understood as colourless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar.
  • Nacres are to be understood as iridescent particles, notably produced in the shell of certain molluscs or else synthesized.
  • mineral pigments usable in the invention we may mention the oxides of titanium, of zirconium or of cerium as well as the oxides of zinc, of iron or of chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromium hydroxide.
  • organic pigments usable in the invention we may mention carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A- 787731 and WO- A- 96/08537.
  • the nacreous pigments can be selected from white nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium, or with bismuth oxychIori.de, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • these can notably be plate-like fillers for example talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, or more or less regular spheroids such as powdered polyamide (Nylon ® ) (Orgasol ® from Atochem), powdered polyethylene, powdered polytetrafiuoroethylene (Teflon ® ), starch, boron nitride, polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap ® from the company Dow Corning), microbeads of silicone resin (Tospearls ® from Toshiba, for example), and elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.
  • powdered polyamide Nylon ®
  • Teflon ® powdered polytetrafiuoroethylene
  • starch boron nitride
  • polymer microspheres such as those of poly
  • the composition can also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes.
  • the fat- soluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 1 1, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are for example beetroot juice and methylene blue.
  • the composition according to the invention can, moreover, comprise all the ingredients conventionally used in the areas in question and more especially in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.
  • These ingredients can nptably be selected from polymers, notably film-forming polymers, fixing polymers; surfactants; hair conditioners; opacifiers; perfumes; thickeners; gelling agents; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums; preservatives; antioxidants, cosmetic active substances; sun filters: pH stabilizers; vitamins; hydrating agents; antiperspirants; deodorants; self-tanning compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of these various ingredients are those used conventionally in the areas in question and are for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention can be obtained according to methods of preparation used conventionally in cosmetics or in dermatology.
  • the cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 99 wt.%, for example from 2 to 98 wt.% of the mixture of alkanes according to the invention relative to their total weight.
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to preserve all of the cosmetic properties of the composition in which it is formulated, and in particular its properties of durability, non-migration, non-transfer, piay- time, smooth application (or good spreading), comfort, gloss or covering power.
  • One and the same composition need not necessarily have all of these properties, but in most cases it is desirable for the composition to possess at least some of them.
  • the durability of the composition can in particular be the durability in water or resistance to rubbing with the fingers or resistance to tears, to sweat or to sebum.
  • the property of non-migration corresponds, for a composition, to not migrating into the folds of the skin such as wrinkles or lines around the lips and eyes (notably eyelids).
  • the non-transfer property of a composition corresponds to the fact that once applied, it is not deposited to any notable extent on surfaces with which they come in contact (glass, cup, cigarette, clothing for example).
  • the "play-time" of a product corresponds to the time during which the consumer can work it during its application and therefore reflects the ease of application of the product or its manageability.
  • It can notably be a make-up composition, a care composition, a perfume composition -or a composition for the hair, for example as defined below.
  • compositions for the hair can notably be a composition for the hair and notably a composition for cleaning or care of the hair such as a shampoo, a conditioner to be rinsed or not, a composition to be rinsed that is to be applied before or after colouring, bleaching, perming or straightening or between two stages of perming or straightening, a composition for the hair for maintaining the hairstyle such as a styling lacquer, gel, mousse or spray, or a composition for the hair such as a composition for colouring the hair or a composition for permanent waving of the hair; a make-up composition, and notably a make-up composition for the lips, body, face or appendages such as a foundation, a lipstick, a lip-gloss, a face powder or eye-shadow, a nail varnish, a mascara or an eye-liner; a care composition, and notably a composition for care of the body or the face, or a composition for make-up removal and/or for cleaning keratinous materials, notably of the skin
  • the relative proportions of n- dodecane and n-tetradecane can be adjusted according to the required properties, notably in terms of rates of evaporation.
  • the composition according to the invention can be a make-up composition.
  • the make-up composition is a lipstick
  • it can notably comprise from 0.5 to 20 wt.% of pigments and/or nacres and/or supplementary fillers, from 0.5 to 40 wt.% of solid fat.
  • the make-up composition when it is a foundation, it can notably comprise from 0.5 to 60 wt.%) of pigments and/or nacres and/or supplementary fillers, from 0.5 to 20 wt.% of solid fat.
  • the composition when it is a solid foundation, can notably comprise from 0.5 to 90 wt.% of organic or mineral solids including optionally from 0.5 to 40% of solid fat.
  • the composition when it is a liquid foundation, in particular in the form of a direct or inverted emulsion, can notably comprise from 0.5 to 90 wt.% > of liquid fatty phase or from 0.5 to 90% of aqueous phase depending on the form of emulsion, as well as from 0.5 to 60% of solid phase in the form of pigments or fillers.
  • the composition can contain from 0.5 to 70% of mineral or organic solids, in particular from 0.5 to 40% of solid fat. Care compositions
  • the composition according to the invention can be a care composition, and notably a composition for make-up removal.
  • composition that is in the form of an emulsion, for example an O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W emulsion.
  • hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin
  • volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly (mineral oil), perhydrosqualene, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene (or hydrogenated isoparaffin) such as Parleam oil.
  • anionic foaming surfactants such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium alkyl phosphate, sodium trideceth sulphate; amphoteric foaming surfactants such as alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, laurylbetaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and nonionic foaming surfactants such as alkylpolyglucosides (APG); preservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA); antioxidants; perfumes; colorants such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; dulling fillers, lifting agents, bleaching agents or exfoliating agents; sun filters; cosmetic or dermato logical active substances and agents having the effect of improving the hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic properties of skin; electrolytes; anionic, nonionic, cationic foaming surfactants such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium alkyl phosphate, sodium trideceth sulphate; amphoteric foaming surfactants such as alkyl betaines such
  • active substances usable in care compositions according to the invention we may mention, for example, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (notably esters) and mixtures thereof; antiseptics; anti-bacterial active substances such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban); antiseborrhoeic agents such as salicylic acid; antimicrobials and antibacterials such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid, niacin (vit. PP); enzymes, yeasts, plant extracts such as tea, mint and water lily extracts, and any active substance suitable for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention can be a perfume composition.
  • It can notably be a composition comprising at least one volatile alcohol.
  • Volatile alcohol means any compound comprising at least one alcohol function having a vapour pressure at 20°C greater than 17.5 mm of mercury.
  • the volatile alcohols according to the present invention are preferably selected from C1-C5 lower monohydric alcohols and can be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol and more particularly ethanol.
  • the volatile alcohol or alcohols are preferably present in amounts in the range from G.5 to 80%.
  • Perfume substance means any perfume or aroma that can release a pleasant odour
  • the amount of perfume substance(s) varies from 1 to 30 wt.%, more preferably from 2 to 25 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Perfumes and aromas of natural or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof can be used as perfume substance in the composition of the invention.
  • perfumes and aromas of natural origin we may mention for example extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang), from, stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), from fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), from fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), from roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet rush), from wood (pine, sandalwood, guaiacum, pink cedar), from herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), from needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), from resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opopanax).
  • perfume substance of synthetic origin we may mention for example compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, aromatic alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • the odoriferous substances contained in the perfume composition according to the invention are compounds usually employed by perfumers and they are notably described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991", Allure Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111., USA.
  • essential oils include the essential oils of lemon, orange, anise, bergamot, rose, geranium, ginger, neroli, basil, rosemary, cardamom, camphor, cedar, camomile, sandalwood, sage, and mixtures thereof, but this is not an exhaustive list.
  • odoriferous compounds are notably: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydro linalol, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyi acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl
  • the perfume composition according to the invention can further comprise any additive usually employed in the field of perfumes, notably selected from cosmetic or dermatological active substances, emollients such as sweet almond oil and apricot kernel oil, hydrating agents such as glycerol, soothing agents such as -bisabolol, allantoin, aloe vera; vitamins, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, fillers, nacres, glitter, soluble dyes in the carrier of the composition, colour stabilizers of the perfume and mixtures thereof.
  • these additives can be present in an amount in the range from 0.001 to 10 wt.% and preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the perfume composition can additionally contain from 0.5 to 30% of water relative to its total weight.
  • compositions for the hair are provided.
  • the composition according to the invention can be a composition for the hair
  • compositions for the hair according to the invention can contain one or more ' cationic polymers with cationic charge density greater than 4 milhequivalents per gram (meq/g), preferably greater than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq/g), preferably in the range from 5 to 20 meq/g and more particularly from 5.5 to .10 meq/g.
  • the cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer in conditions in which the latter is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers of which the polymer is constituted and their molar proportion or proportion by weight. It can also be determined experimentally by Kjeldahl's method, generally at a pH of about 7 at room temperature.
  • Cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than 4 meq/g can be selected from all those already known per se to improve the cosmetic properties of hair treated with compositions, i.e. notably those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 61 1 , 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
  • the cationic polymers are selected from those that comprise units having primaiy, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which can either form part of the main chain of the polymer, or can be borne by a side sub stituent joined directly to the latter.
  • the cationic polymers that are used generally have a number-average molecular weight between about 500 and 5.10 , and preferably between about 10 and 3.10 6 .
  • the cationic polymers we may mention more particularly polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • R4, R5, Rg which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from. 1 to
  • R ⁇ and R which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a metho sulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • cationic polysaccharides notably celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides we may mention more particularly the derivatives of cellulose ethers having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium and cationic galactomannan. gums.
  • polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulphur, or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers;
  • R[g, R]9, 20 R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, . ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH2)pOH radical,
  • r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and.34,
  • X denotes an anion such as a halide
  • A denotes a radical of a dihali.de or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH. 2 -CH2-.
  • compositions for the. hair according to the invention can also contain one or more organomodified or non-organomodified silicones.
  • the silicones usable according to the invention can be soluble or insoluble in the composition, and in particular they can be polyorgaiiosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention; they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • compositions for the hair according to the invention can also contain cosmetically acceptable additives, for example surfactants, thickeners, penetrating agents, perfumes, buffers, and various usual additives such as UV filters, waxes, cyclic or linear or branched volatile or non-volatile silicones, organomodified (notably with amine groups) or not organomodified, preservatives, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, reducing agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, fillers, sun filters, proteins, hydrating agents, emollients, softening agents, anti-foaming agents, antiperspirants, anti-free-radical agents, fixing or non-fixing polymers, bactericides, sequestering agents, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, alkalizing agents, and any other additive used conventionally in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied on the hair.
  • the mixture of alkanes according to the invention was obtained from n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by the company SASOL or under the references Vegelight 12 or Vegelight 12-99 by the company Biosyntis and from n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by the company SASOL. or under the reference Vegelight 14 by the company Biosynthis.
  • n-dodecane and 70 wt.% of n-tetradecane 10
  • the following hair serum was prepared:
  • compositions of examples 1 to 5 all display very good cosmetic properties.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur un mélange d'alcanes comprenant au moins du n-dodécane et du n-tétradécane, caractérisé en ce que le n-dodécane et le n-tétradécane représentent au moins 90 % en poids dudit mélange et en ce que la teneur en poids du n-tétradécane dans ledit mélange est strictement supérieure à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total dudit mélange.
PCT/IB2010/055173 2009-11-17 2010-11-15 Mélange de solvants à base d'hydrocarbures Ceased WO2011061672A1 (fr)

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FR0958119A FR2952528B1 (fr) 2009-11-17 2009-11-17 Melange de solvants hydrocarbones.
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US61/300,463 2010-02-02

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2577985A (en) * 2018-09-17 2020-04-15 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Hair care products with special renewable raw materials
WO2024119300A1 (fr) * 2022-12-05 2024-06-13 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Composition de soins personnels comprenant un mélange d'alcanes volatils et des résines

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3079746B1 (fr) * 2018-04-10 2020-11-06 Biosynthis Sarl Excipient cosmetique comprenant des alcanes
FR3106752B1 (fr) * 2020-01-30 2022-08-05 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Composition a deux phases demaquillante et/ou nettoyante

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EP0337354A1 (fr) 1988-04-12 1989-10-18 Kao Corporation Composition détergente faiblement irritante
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2577985A (en) * 2018-09-17 2020-04-15 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Hair care products with special renewable raw materials
GB2577985B (en) * 2018-09-17 2021-03-24 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Hair care products with special renewable raw materials
WO2024119300A1 (fr) * 2022-12-05 2024-06-13 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Composition de soins personnels comprenant un mélange d'alcanes volatils et des résines

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