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WO2006013414A1 - Composition cosmétique comportant une émulsion comportant un trisiloxane alkyle - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comportant une émulsion comportant un trisiloxane alkyle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006013414A1
WO2006013414A1 PCT/IB2005/002024 IB2005002024W WO2006013414A1 WO 2006013414 A1 WO2006013414 A1 WO 2006013414A1 IB 2005002024 W IB2005002024 W IB 2005002024W WO 2006013414 A1 WO2006013414 A1 WO 2006013414A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
volatile
formula
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PCT/IB2005/002024
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English (en)
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Pascal Arnaud
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from FR0451693A external-priority patent/FR2873583B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2006013414A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006013414A1/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion comprising an alkyltrisiloxane
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, for caring for and/or making up especially the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil.
  • the composition may be used more particularly for the treatment, especially the nontherapeutic treatment, of dry skin and/or dry lips and/or sensitive skin.
  • compositions according to the invention may constitute a makeup product for the face, the body, keratin fibers and/or the lips especially having nontherapeutic care and/or treatment properties.
  • Emulsions with an oily continuous phase or water-in-oil emulsions, also known as W/O emulsions, generally make it possible to form on the surface of the skin a lipid film that prevents transepidermal water loss and protect the skin against external attack.
  • These emulsions are particularly suitable for caring for and repairing dry and dehydrated skin, to which they provide comfort and protection by means of the lipid barrier that they form on the skin.
  • oily volatile compounds in cosmetic compositions and especially in W/O emulsions.
  • these compounds are often used to adjust the staying-power properties, in particular in the makeup field, and/or the texture properties, especially during application of the product.
  • the oily volatile compounds used in cosmetic products are especially cyclic silicones and hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular isododecane, which especially give a pleasant feel.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and, to a lesser extent, cyclic silicones often have a tendency to dissolve, at least partially, certain plastic compounds that are constituents of packaging materials. This therefore leads to a restriction in the choice of materials intended to constitute the container of these cosmetic compositions.
  • Document EP 0 856 309 describes water-in-oil emulsions comprising volatile oils, and especially hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane and octymeptamethyltrisiloxane.
  • Document FR 2 749 505 describes a transfer-resistant makeup or care composition, which is especially anhydrous and in stick form, containing alkyl siloxanes with a chain length (R) of between 3 and 10 carbons.
  • Document FR 2 757 396 describes a care composition containing a combination of a silicone elastomer with a fatty phase.
  • Document JP 03-264 510 describes a cosmetic composition comprising a particular mixture of three types of siloxane.
  • Document US 6 350 440 discloses a mixture of linear organosiloxanes with a particular evaporation profile, and also examples of cosmetic formulations containing them.
  • no composition comprises an emulsion with an oily continuous phase comprising at least one volatile alkylsiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) defined below, especially comprising an alkyl group R containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • compositions comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase that have satisfactory staying power and texture without having the drawbacks mentioned above.
  • the inventors have thus discovered that the use of a specific volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil makes it possible to obtain compositions comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase that have satisfactory cosmetic properties while at the same time being free of the abovementioned drawbacks.
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • R represents an alkyl group containing 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • R represents an alkyl group containing 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, with the exclusion of a foundation comprising titanium dioxide in a content of greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • R represents an alkyl group containing 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, with the exclusion of a foundation comprising pigments in a content of greater than or equal to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is a mascara comprising an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • R represents an alkyl group containing 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil corresponding to formula (I) below:
  • a subject of the invention is a nontherapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers, comprising at least the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the skin, the lips and/or keratin fibers.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of an emulsion with an oily continuous phase comprising a linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula
  • volatile oil means an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mmHg).
  • the term "emulsion with an oily continuous phase” means an emulsion whose inner phase is dispersed as fine droplets in an oily phase and whose homogeneity is ensured by one or more surfactants.
  • An emulsion with an oily continuous phase may be, for example, a simple emulsion of water-in-oil type or an oil-in-water-in-oil multiple emulsion.
  • the term "at least one” means one or more individual compounds and also mixtures thereof.
  • the expression "the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I)” covers the case in which it is a mixture of several oils of formula (I).
  • keratin fibers especially means the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.
  • skin makeup especially covers makeup for the body, the hands, the neck or the face.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I).
  • volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) mention may be made of:
  • R may be linear or branched. For example, it may be an n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl or n-pentyl group.
  • the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) may be prepared according to known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds.
  • the oil of formula (I) for which R is an ethyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3886 ® and the oil for which R is a butyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3887 ® by the company GE Bayer Silicones.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents an ethyl group.
  • this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I) other than 3-ethyl- 1,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents a butyl group.
  • this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I) other than 3-butyl-l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents an ethyl group and of a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of formula (I) in which R represents a butyl group.
  • this composition is free of other volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula (I), i.e.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil of general formula (I) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, especially from 1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • physiologically acceptable medium denotes a nontoxic medium that may be applied to the skin, especially of the body, the hands, the neck, the face or the legs, the lips and/or keratin fibers, of human beings.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied and also to the aspect in which the composition is intended to be packaged.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition may comprise at least one volatile solvent.
  • the volatile solvents may be chosen especially from water, volatile organic solvents and volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase Aqueous and/or water-soluble phase
  • the water that may be included in the aqueous or water-soluble phase may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as eau de Vittel, eau de Lucas or eau de La Roche Posay and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are water-miscible
  • glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and C 1 to C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and C 1 to C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may comprise the aqueous phase in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, especially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight and in particular ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase of the emulsion included in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil of formula (I) as defined above.
  • the oily phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one volatile oil not in accordance with formula (I).
  • volatile oils not in accordance with formula (I) mention may be made of cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils, or volatile nonsilicone oils, chosen especially from hydrocarbon- based or fluoro volatile oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils mention may be made especially of those with a viscosity ⁇ 6 centistokes (6xlO "6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 or 2 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta- methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl- trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the noncyclic volatile silicone oils may also be chosen from linear or branched volatile silicone oils.
  • the cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils not in accordance with formula (I) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for instance isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® and Permethyl ® , and branched esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • isoalkanes also known as isoparaffms
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane and isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® and Permethyl ®
  • branched esters for instance isohe
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillate, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt ® by the company Shell, may be used.
  • the nonsilicone volatile oil, and in particular the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the volatile oil(s) not in accordance with formula (I) may be present in a content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, especially 30% by weight and in particular 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the latter case, it may be said that the composition is free of volatile oil not in accordance with formula (I).
  • the composition comprises only one or more volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil(s) of formula (I) as volatile oil(s).
  • the composition of the present invention is free of cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils not in accordance with formula (I), i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of these cyclic or noncyclic volatile silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of cyclic volatile silicone oil, especially octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular octamethylcyclotetra ⁇ siloxane, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of such cyclic silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of nonsilicone volatile oils, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of these nonsilicone volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the mixture of volatile oils, or volatile fatty phase, in the composition according to the invention has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil(s) evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 1.7 to
  • evaporation profile is measured according to the following protocol:
  • the oily phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise any fatty substance conventionally used in cosmetics.
  • the fatty substances may be chosen especially from oils other than those indicated above, and in particular from nonvolatile oils, solid fatty substances and waxes.
  • Nonvolatile oils are nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils.
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, and more generally on the keratin material, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil,
  • oils of animal origin for instance mink oil, turtle oil or perhydrosqualene
  • - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms for instance
  • - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
  • R 1 COOR 2 the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl eracate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl la
  • esters for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and
  • esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate;
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
  • - Cs-C 26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
  • nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl- siloxysilicates.
  • the composition is free of nonvolatile oil, i.e. it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of nonvolatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nonvolatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, especially ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight and in particular ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention when used as a product for removing makeup from the skin and/or the eyes, it more particularly contains makeup- removing oils and especially those chosen from fatty acid esters containing at least 12 carbon atoms.
  • These esters are preferably obtained from a straight- or branched-chain alcohol containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and from a straight- or branched-chain fatty acid containing at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monoesters or diesters.
  • the makeup-removing oils may be chosen especially from the group comprising 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), 2-ethylhexyl myristate (or octyl myristate), isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, methyl myristate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, ethyl myristate, myristyl propionate, 2- ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate, methyl palmitate, butyl myristate
  • the oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, which may be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums, and mixtures thereof.
  • This solid fatty substance may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50%, especially from 0.1% to 25% and in particular from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty substance that is pasty at room temperature.
  • the term "pasty fatty substance” means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C and preferably 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises) and preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
  • a person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement on the pasty compound tested.
  • these fatty substances can be hydrocarbon-based compounds optionally of polymeric type; they may also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone compounds.
  • the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups
  • lanolins and lanolin derivatives for instance acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, with a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s and preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point of from 30 to 55°C, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols especially those containing 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point from about 20.
  • Triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • Triglycerides of plant origin include hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as "Thixinr " from Rheox.
  • silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those with pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • stearyl dimethicones especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty fatty substance may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Wax The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45 0 C and in particular greater than 55°C.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D. S. C), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • D. S. C differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 15 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 0°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from 0°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength, measured at 20°C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 ⁇ by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter traveling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 0 C.
  • the molten wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
  • the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) over 24 hours and is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before performing the hardness measurement.
  • the value of the hardness is the compressive strength measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
  • Hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
  • the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, may also be mentioned.
  • hydrogenated jojoba oil isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50 ® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene, and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B ® by the company Heterene.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50 ®
  • hydrogenated sunflower oil hydrogenated castor oil
  • hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil bis(l,l,l-trimethylo
  • Silicone waxes and fluoro waxes may also be mentioned.
  • the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 ® , or the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190.
  • the composition according to the invention generally contains waxes in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • waxes supplied in the form of small particles with a size of the order of 0.5 to 30 micrometers, in particular from 1 to 20 micrometers and more particularly from 5 to 10 micrometers which are referred to hereinbelow as "micro waxes”.
  • micro waxes supplied in the form of small particles with a size of the order of 0.5 to 30 micrometers, in particular from 1 to 20 micrometers and more particularly from 5 to 10 micrometers
  • the waxes used according to the invention in the form of fragments of larger size are referred to hereinbelow as "conventional waxes”.
  • micro waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba micro waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic micro waxes such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S ® by the company Micro Powders, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 ® and 310 ® by the company Micro Powders, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325 ® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene micro waxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519 ® and 519L ® by the company Micro
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content that may range from 10% to 90% by weight, especially from 20% to 70% by weight and in particular from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • waxes may also be present in the aqueous phase of the formulation, and that they may then be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of wax particles.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one surfactant present especially in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and especially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • surfactants may be chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants.
  • the surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohol, partial esters (partial in the sense that there are free hydroxyl functions remaining in the polyol) of fatty acid and of polyols, alkyl glucose and sucrose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty esters Of C 1 -C 6 alkyl glucose, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohol, partial esters (partial in the sense that there are free hydroxyl functions remaining in the polyol) of fatty acid and of polyols, alkyl glucose and sucrose esters, in particular polyoxyethy
  • surfactants that are specific for W/O emulsions, such as ⁇ - ⁇ -oxyalkylenated silicones, especially such as those described in patent EP 0 950 401, alkyl polyglycosides, especially such as those described in document EP 1 093 801, and silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols, for instance those described in documents EP 1 092 424 and EP 0 612 517.
  • ⁇ - ⁇ -oxyalkylenated silicones especially such as those described in patent EP 0 950 401
  • alkyl polyglycosides especially such as those described in document EP 1 093 801
  • silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols, for instance those described in documents EP 1 092 424 and EP 0 612 517.
  • nonionic silicone surfactants and especially the alkyl dimethicone copolyols, and also the esters of isostearic acid with polyglycerol, are preferred surfactants.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise an additional particulate phase, which may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 40% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • It may especially comprise pigments and/or nacres and/or additional fillers used in cosmetic compositions.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or nonlamellar particles.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent particles, produced especially by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized.
  • the pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight and especially from 0.02% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively the diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A- 96/08537.
  • DPP diketo pyrrolopyrroles
  • the nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.02% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the additional fillers may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, especially 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.02% to 30% by weight and more particularly 0.02% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • spherical fillers for instance talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ® ) powders (Orgasol ® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ® ), starch, boron nitride, polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap ® from the company Dow Corning), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls ® from Toshiba), and elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.
  • spherical fillers for instance talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ® ) powders (Orgasol ® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Te
  • the composition may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight and especially ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any ingredient conventionally used in the fields under consideration and more especially in cosmetics and dermatology.
  • ingredients may be chosen especially from polymers, especially film- forming polymers and fixing polymers; surfactants; hair conditioning agents; opacifiers; fragrances; thickeners; gelling agents; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums; preserving agents; antioxidants; cosmetic active agents; sunscreens; pH stabilizers; vitamins; moisturizers; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; self-tanning compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition comprising an oily continuous phase according to the invention may be obtained according to the preparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • composition according to the invention may be in liquid, pasty, solid, mousse or spray form. It may comprise an emulsion with an oily continuous phase, especially a water-in-oil or oil-in- water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the composition according to the invention may be used for making up and/or caring for human skin, lips and/or keratin fibers.
  • the composition thus finds a particular application as a body or facial care composition; a body or facial cleansing composition such as a shower gel, a bath gel or a makeup remover; a body or facial makeup composition such, as a foundation, a lipstick, a lipcare product, a nail varnish, a nailcare product, a mascara or an eyeliner; a fragrancing composition; a hair composition such as a hair dye composition or a composition for permanently reshaping the hair; an antisun composition; a deodorant composition; a hair cleansing or haircare composition such as a shampoo or a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, a rinse-out composition to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving or relaxing the hair, or alternatively between the two steps of a permanent-waving or hair-relaxing operation; a hair composition for holding the hairstyle, such as
  • the composition is in the form of lipsticks or complexion products, especially such as a foundation, a makeup rouge, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a mascara or a lipstick.
  • composition may also be in the form of a cream, a milk or a serum that may be used as a care product or an antisun product.
  • composition according to the invention When the composition according to the invention is of the mascara type, it may be applied uniformly or nonuniformly to the surface of the eyelashes, as a single coat or in the form of several superimposed coats.
  • the composition according to the invention is more particularly intended for a mascara product comprising a reservoir, containing at least said mascara composition, and a system for applying said composition to keratin fibers, for instance the eyelashes.
  • the composition of the invention may be obtained according to the preparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • Example 1 Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
  • Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil ® EM 90 from the company Goldschmidt) 0.80 g
  • Titanium dioxide 5.87 g
  • Example 2 Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
  • Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil ® EM 90 from the company Goldschmidt) 9.00 g 80/20 mixture of acetylated ethylene glycol stearate and of glyceryl tristearate (Unitwix ® from United Guardian) 0.50 g Mixture of polydiphenyl dimethylsiloxane and of cyclopentasiloxane (15/85)
  • Titanium dioxide 7.89 g
  • Nylon-12 powder 8.00 g
  • Example 3 Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
  • Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil ® EM 90 from the company Goldschmidt) 0.80 g
  • Titanium dioxide 5.87 g
  • Example 4 Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
  • Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil ® EM 90 from the company Goldschmidt) 9.0O g
  • Titanium dioxide 7.89 g Nylon-12 powder 8.00 g

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant une émulsion à phase continue huileuse pour maquiller et/ou traiter la peau, les lèvres et/ou les fibres de kératine, comportant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins une huile de trisiloxane alkyle linéaire volatile correspondant à la formule générale (I) ci-dessous, dans laquelle R représente un groupe alkyle contenant 2, 3, 4 ou 5 atomes de carbone, éventuellement remplacés par un ou plusieurs atomes de fluor ou de chlore. La présente invention concerne également le procédé de traitement cosmétique correspondant.
PCT/IB2005/002024 2004-07-28 2005-07-15 Composition cosmétique comportant une émulsion comportant un trisiloxane alkyle Ceased WO2006013414A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0451693A FR2873583B1 (fr) 2004-07-28 2004-07-28 Composition cosmetique comprenant une emulsion a phase continue huileuse comprenant au moins une huile alkyltrisiloxane volatile
FR0451693 2004-07-28
US59812204P 2004-08-03 2004-08-03
US60/598,122 2004-08-03

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006105630A1 (fr) * 2005-04-06 2006-10-12 Natura Cosméticos S.A. Préparation cosmétique, préparation pharmaceutique et procédé d'élaboration desdites préparations

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables
JP2003226631A (ja) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料
EP1374835A1 (fr) * 2002-06-26 2004-01-02 L'oreal Fond de teint emulsion eau-dans-huile

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001097773A1 (fr) * 2000-06-23 2001-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion solide a phase grasse liquide structuree par un polymere
WO2003042221A1 (fr) * 2001-11-13 2003-05-22 Ge Bayer Silicones Gmbh & Co. Kg Utilisation de siloxanes comme supports evaporables
JP2003226631A (ja) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-12 Shiseido Co Ltd 化粧料
EP1374835A1 (fr) * 2002-06-26 2004-01-02 L'oreal Fond de teint emulsion eau-dans-huile

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 2003, no. 12 5 December 2003 (2003-12-05) *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006105630A1 (fr) * 2005-04-06 2006-10-12 Natura Cosméticos S.A. Préparation cosmétique, préparation pharmaceutique et procédé d'élaboration desdites préparations
US8617526B2 (en) 2005-04-06 2013-12-31 Natura Cosmeticos S.A. Cosmetic composition, a pharmaceutical composition and a process for preparing said compositions

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