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WO2008034718A1 - Procédé d'élaboration de composition cosmétique à partir d'un extrait de plante comprenant des polysaccharides - Google Patents

Procédé d'élaboration de composition cosmétique à partir d'un extrait de plante comprenant des polysaccharides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008034718A1
WO2008034718A1 PCT/EP2007/059240 EP2007059240W WO2008034718A1 WO 2008034718 A1 WO2008034718 A1 WO 2008034718A1 EP 2007059240 W EP2007059240 W EP 2007059240W WO 2008034718 A1 WO2008034718 A1 WO 2008034718A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
substances
process according
plant
polysaccharides
composition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2007/059240
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English (en)
Inventor
Véronique Chevalier
Quang Lan Nguyen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0653838A external-priority patent/FR2905863A1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2008034718A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008034718A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9717—Rhodophycota or Rhodophyta [red algae], e.g. Porphyra
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • a subject-matter of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application comprising a stage of percolation of plant extracts followed by the incorporation of this extract in a concentrated preparation.
  • a further subject-matter of the invention is the composition obtained and its use in the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human skin and keratinous fibres, such as the hair.
  • compositions under consideration according to the invention can constitute a skincare product .
  • the Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that, by adding, to a concentrated preparation, an extract obtained by a process for the percolation of plant substances comprising polysaccharides, it is possible to obtain satisfactory diluted and thickened cosmetic compositions additionally having the advantage of having the properties inherent in the presence of plant extracts which are known to benefit the skin.
  • the invention thus relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises (1) a stage of percolation of fluid under pressure through one or more plant substances, at least one of the plant substances comprising polysaccharides, in the solid or pasty form, the fluid being composed of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, or of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents or also of a mixture of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, and of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents, and (2) a stage of incorporation of the extract obtained in a concentrated preparation comprising at most 30% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the preparation, and comprising at least one polymer and/or at least one surfactant and/or at least one oil.
  • the process according to the invention makes it possible to directly obtain a composition for topical application which is sufficiently diluted and thickened.
  • composition prepared according to the process of the invention is intended for topical application and in particular for application to keratinous substances, it is physiologically acceptable.
  • physiologically acceptable composition is understood to mean a composition which is nontoxic, which is capable of being applied to keratinous substances and which is pleasant to use.
  • keratinous substances is understood to mean the skin, scalp, lips and/or superficial body growths, such as the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.
  • the composition can in particular be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • the percolation stage makes it possible to obtain an aqueous extract capable of diluting and of thickening the concentrated preparation.
  • this extract has the advantage of being stable and of not resulting in destabilization of the concentration prepared.
  • it provides the composition with the cosmetic advantages related to plant extracts (radiance of the complexion, for example) .
  • the composition obtained comprises the mixture of the extract obtained on conclusion of the percolation and the concentrated preparation, it being possible for the latter to comprise active principles and any other compound generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances and in particular the skin.
  • a subject-matter of the invention is a packaging device which makes it possible to carry out the preparation process of the present invention.
  • a fluid the temperature of which is preferably greater than or equal to 3O 0 C, preferably ranging from 3O 0 C to 15O 0 C, more preferably ranging from 4O 0 C to 12O 0 C and better still from 70 to 8O 0 C, is passed, under a pressure preferably of at least 3 bar (3 x 10 5 Pa) , for a very short period of time, less than one minute, through at least one plant or inorganic substance in the solid or pasty form, preferably in the solid form and more preferably in the pulverulent form.
  • This extract can be used up to one week after it has been produced.
  • the extracts obtained by the process described above and the cosmetic compositions comprising them can be prepared "on request” by mixing the percolation extracts and the dry carriers according to the cosmetic properties desired.
  • the plant substances can be packaged in a ready-for-use device of "kit” type and it is not necessary to determine beforehand the concentrations of the plant substances in solution, which limits the measurement errors of the user.
  • kits for carrying out the process defined above, comprising: one or more receptacles suitable for percolation under pressure by the fluid route, the receptacle or receptacles delimiting at least one housing comprising at least one plant substance comprising polysaccharides, and
  • the receptacle can in particular be in the form of a bag or of a capsule.
  • the process according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the use of multicompartment bottles, which makes the process particularly economic and safer for the user.
  • Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium which allows the fluid to pass, under the action or the effect of pressure.
  • the fluid is composed of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, or of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents, in particular organic solvents, or also of a mixture of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, and of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents.
  • the fluid comprises at least steam, which can be accompanied by liquid water, and more preferably still it is steam, which can be accompanied by liquid water.
  • organic solvent for example, of Ci-C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol , propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol , and their mixtures.
  • Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol
  • propylene glycol propylene glycol monomethyl ether
  • diethylene glycol monoethyl ether diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
  • diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol
  • the percolation fluid can also be a mineral water, such as, for example, waters from Vichy (springs of Lucas, H ⁇ pital or Grande Grille) , water from La Roche-Posay, water from Avene or water from Vittel .
  • a mineral water such as, for example, waters from Vichy (springs of Lucas, H ⁇ pital or Grande Grille) , water from La Roche-Posay, water from Avene or water from Vittel .
  • One or more solvents can also be added thereto, as indicated above.
  • the process of the present invention can be carried out starting from a conventional device which makes it possible to generate a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably of greater than or equal to 3O 0 C and more preferably still ranging from 3O 0 C to 15O 0 C.
  • Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber equipped with a heating unit and a circuit for conveying the fluid produced to the plant extract.
  • the device comprises a tank for liquid (s) and a pump which makes it possible to convey the liquid or liquids to the chamber.
  • the liquid present in the tank is the percolation fluid as described above.
  • a particularly useful device for implementing the process of the present invention is a coffee machine of the "expresso" type.
  • Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in the documents AT-A-168 405, US-A-2 688 911, DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-I 265 636 and in Applications FR 06/50303, FR 06/50304, FR 06/50306 and FR 06/50308.
  • the percolation stage is carried out with a fluid at a temperature of greater than 3O 0 C, preferably between 3O 0 C and 15O 0 C, under a pressure preferably of at least 3 bar, better still of at least 4 bar and better still of at least 10 bar.
  • the pressure is at most 30 bar. It can, for example, range from 3 to 30 bar, preferably from 4 to 30 bar and very particularly from 10 to 30 bar.
  • the plant substance or substances, in the solid or pasty form, can be used directly, in the device generating the fluid under pressure, in a receptacle intended for this use. They can also be packaged in a specific packaging device of the single-dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to a fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bar.
  • a specific packaging device of the single-dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to a fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bar.
  • Such devices are, for example, described in the documents WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512 470, US-A-5 897 899 or WO-A- 99/03753. These packaging devices are generally airtight, watertight and/or lightproof.
  • the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a container closed by a lid.
  • These devices can be manufactured from woven or nonwoven materials made of plastic, of plant material, for example of cellulose, of metal, such as aluminium, or of composite. Such devices are described, for example, in the documents WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512 470, US-A-5 897 899 or WO-A- 99/03753.
  • Plant substance Any plant substance in the solid form or in the pasty form, preferably in the solid form and more preferably still in the pulverulent form, can be used to prepare the extract. At least one plant substance comprising polysaccharides has to be used.
  • solid form is understood to mean a compound or a composition which is provided in the form of a lozenge (or tablet) , of a sheet or of a powder, the powder being a solid finely divided into particles, in contrast to a composition in the form of a cream or of a gel, which are soft compositions.
  • pulverulent is understood to mean a compound or a composition which is provided in the form of a powder (composed of particles or grains) .
  • pasty composition is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a consistency intermediate between a solid phase and a liquid phase.
  • the viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa-s and more preferably still greater than 1 Pa-s, at 25 0 C with a shear rate of 10 s "1 .
  • plant substances comprising polysaccharides is understood to mean any plant comprising polysaccharide polymers, such as alginates, carrageenans, aloe vera, starch, pectin or gums, such as, for example, gum arabic, guar gum, locus bean gum or gum ghatti .
  • the plant substances which can be used according to the invention can be marine algae, wood, leaves, grasses, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, pulp, peel, berries, beans or seeds of plants. They are preferably marine algae (in particular red, blue, green and brown algae) and plants comprising pectin or gums, in particular guar gum.
  • Mention may in particular be made, as algae, of the giant brown algae which comprise alginates, in particular the algae of the Laminaria family, and the red algae which contain carrageenans, in particular of the Rhodophyceae family, such as Furcellaria fastigiata. Use may also be made of the mixtures of these algae.
  • polysaccharides other than the algae for example, of the acacia germs and stems which comprise gum arabic, in particular Acacia Senegal, the parenchymatous tissue part of Aloe barbadensis which comprises aloe vera, plants of the family of the Leg
  • plant substances comprising polysaccharides
  • the plant substances used in the process according to the present invention are those comprising polyphenols and oligomers of the categories of flavonoids, such as: - substances comprising flavonols and flavonol oligomers, which are, for example, in lemon peel; liquorice roots,- grape and blackcurrant seeds,- green tea leaves; pine bark; hawthorn berries,- cocoa pods and beans ,- - substances comprising flavones, which are, for example, in camomile leaves and skullcap root; substances comprising flavans, which are, for example, in flower petals (cotton, and the like) ; substances comprising isoflavones, which are, for example, in soya,- substances comprising flavanones, which are, for example, in pine bark or citrus fruit peel (orange, lemon, and the like) ; substances comprising chalcones, which are, for example, in citrus fruit peel and apple peel; substances comprising arylchro
  • Natural inorganic or plant components rich in antibacterial active principles can also be combined therewith.
  • trace elements such as Cu, Zn or Ag, terpenoids, alkaloids, peptides, fatty alcohols, which prevent the use of preservatives, can also be combined therewith.
  • the plant substance or substances can be employed as a mixture with one or more solid or pasty and preferably pulverulent adjuvants which can serve, for example, to improve the extraction. Once the percolation is complete, these adjuvants remain in the percolator.
  • the adjuvants can be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surface- active agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes, pigments, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) , chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides, such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, particles of resin, such as silicone or silica beads, talc, polyaspartic acid, borosilicates, in particular calcium borosilicate, polyethylene,
  • the plant substance or substances are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, better still from 1 to 80% by weight and more preferably still from 2 to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of plant substance (s) and adjuvants.
  • the amount of extract in the final composition obtained by the process of the present invention is generally between 10 and 95% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 20 and 95%, better still from 20 to 80% and more preferably still between 30 and 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term "concentrated preparation” is understood to mean a preparation which has to be diluted in order to be able to be used and which comprises at most 30% by weight of water and preferably at most 25% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the preparation. It is a preparation which can comprise an aqueous medium but which can also be anhydrous and it can be provided in various forms: aqueous solutions or aqueous or anhydrous emulsions.
  • the amount of water can thus range from 0 to 30% by weight and preferably from 0 to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the amount of concentrated preparation with respect to the total amount of the final composition can range, for example, from 5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 5 to 80% by weight, better still from 20 to 80% by weight and preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the final composition.
  • This preparation comprises at least one polymer or one surfactant or one oil or their mixtures (mixtures in pairs or comprising several) . It is possible to use a concentrated preparation which does not form 100% by weight and which will be made up to 100% by the preparation extract, as shown by the examples described below.
  • the preparations used according to the invention can comprise one or more active principles chosen in particular from cosmetic active principles, such as: antiageing and antiwrinkle agents, such as, for example, antiglycation agents, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or which stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes, or muscle relaxants; moisturizing agents, such as, for example, sodium lactate; polyols and in particular glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycol; mannitol; amino acids,- hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea and mixtures comprising urea, such as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) ; urea derivatives, in particular (hydroxyalkyl) ureas, such as the (hydroxyethyl) urea available commercially in the form of a 50% by weight mixture in water from National Starch under
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids in particular acids derived from fruits, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid or mandelic acid, their derivatives and their mixtures; ⁇ -hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, for example 5- (n-octanoyl) salicylic acid or 5- (n-dodecanoyl) salicylic acid; ⁇ -keto acids, such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives, for example its salts, such as sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, its esters, such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars, such as glycosylated ascorbic acid and their mixtures,- ⁇ -keto acids,- retinoids, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoids, such as retinol (vitamin
  • organic UV-A and UV-B screening agents such as, for example, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, ⁇ , ⁇ ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives, p- aminobenzoic acid derivatives, 4- methylbenzylidenecamphor, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5- sulphonic acid, 1 , 3 , 5-triazine derivatives, dibenzoyl- methane derivatives, benzene-1, 4-di (3-methylidene- camphor-10-sulphonic acid) , benzophenone derivatives, silane derivatives or polyorganosiloxanes comprising a benzophenone group, anthranilates, compounds comprising, per molecule, at least two benzazolyl groups or at least one benzodiazolyl group, silicon derivatives of N-substituted benzimidazolylbenzazoles or of benzofuranylbenzazoles, tria
  • surfactants generally used in the cosmetics field can be used in the concentrated preparations of the invention. Mention may in particular be made, as surfactants, of emulsifiers of oil-in-water (0/W) emulsions and foaming surfactants (or detergents) .
  • emulsifiers of 0/W emulsions for example, of nonionic emulsifiers, such as esters of fatty acids and of oxyalkylene (more particularly polyoxyethylene) polyols, for example polyethylene glycol stearates or isostearates, such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-40 stearate and PEG-8 isostearate (INCI name); and their mixtures, such as the mxiture of glyceryl monostearate and of polyethylene glycol (100 EO) stearate sold under the name Simulsol 165 by Seppic,- glyceryl or polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, such as polyglyceryl -4 laurate,- oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 EO units, for example those sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by
  • foaming surfactants for example, of:
  • nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene/oxy- propylene block polymers, such as Poloxamer 184 (INCI name) ; alkylpolyglycosides and in particular alkylpoly- glucosides (APGs) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms (C 6 -C 3 oalkylpolyglycosides) and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as, for example, decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9/Cll-polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP or Plantacare 2000 UP by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by Seppic ; caprylyl/capryl glucose, such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by Seppic,- lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names Planta
  • anionic surfactants such as alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the sodium laureth sulphate/magnesium laureth sulphate/sodium laureth- 8 sulphate/magnesium laureth- 8 sulphate mixture sold under the name of Texapon ASV by Cognis; the sodium lauryl ether sulphate (Ci 2 -I 4 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 Paste by Cognis; the ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C 12 -H 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by Cognis; the ammonium (Ci 2 -Ci 4 ) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulphate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie,- or acylglutamates, such
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants such as alkylamidoalkylamine derivatives, for example the
  • N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxy- methyl) ethylenediamine (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold in saline aqueous solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone. NP by Rhodia Chimie; the N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) - ethylenediamine (INCI name: sodium cocoamphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (INCI name : cocamide DEA) .
  • the amount of surfactants can vary to a large extent according to the final destination of the composition and the formulation type. It can range, for example, from 0.05 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the concentrated preparation.
  • the polymers of the concentrated preparation can be chosen from any polymer used in the cosmetics field and in particular from water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers.
  • the latter can in particular be chosen from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: Acrylates/ClO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Noveon; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or under the name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica,- polyacrylamides ; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, such as the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methanepropane- sulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name: ammonium polyacryl- dimethyltauramide)
  • the amount of gelling agents depends on the purpose desired and on the formulation form of the concentrated preparation.
  • the amount of gelling agents can range, for example, from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the concentrated preparation.
  • oils used in the concentrated preparations of the invention can be chosen from any oil generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature.
  • oils which can be used in the composition of the invention for example, of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene ; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or also, for example, sunflower, maize, soybean, cucumber, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a
  • the amount of oil(s) can vary to a large extent depending on the final destination of the composition and the formulation type. They can range, for example, from 5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight and better still from 10 to 70% by weight, with respect to the weight of concentrated preparation.
  • the concentrated preparations can also comprise standard adjuvants used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as gelling agents, solvents, fillers, fibres, chelating agents, micas, fragrances, and the like.
  • standard adjuvants used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields such as gelling agents, solvents, fillers, fibres, chelating agents, micas, fragrances, and the like.
  • compositions obtained by the process according to the invention can be provided in all the formulation forms according to the preparation used. They can, for example, be provided in the form of aqueous, aqueous/alcoholic or aqueous/glycolic gels or in the form of more or less fluid emulsions.
  • the final composition obtained by dilution of the concentrated preparation with the percolation extract constitutes an oil-in- water (0/W) emulsion.
  • compositions obtained by the process according to the invention can constitute a skincare product having a nourishing, moisturizing, antiwrinkle or antidesiccating effect or any other skincare application.
  • the composition can also be a make-up product, such as a foundation for colouring the skin and/or protecting it while contributing a care effect.
  • compositions have a pH preferably of between 2 and 11, better still between 3 and 9 and even better still between 3 and 7.
  • the invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention.
  • This composition exhibits the advantage of being able to be devoid of preservatives.
  • a significant embodiment of the invention consists in applying the composition obtained via a device not requiring human intervention and optionally equipped with a cooling means.
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process as defined above and in that this composition is applied to the keratinous substance.
  • the keratinous substance is preferably the skin.
  • Application to keratinous substances can be carried out, for example, via an operator or via a device not requiring human intervention.
  • the application time can vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.
  • PEG 8 isostearate 5.85 g
  • a fine bluish emulsion which has a thixotropic rheology and which is suitable for being applied to the skin in order to improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
  • Example 2 A fine bluish emulsion is thus obtained which has a thixotropic rheology and which is suitable for being applied to the skin in order to improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
  • Example 2 A fine bluish emulsion is thus obtained which has a thixotropic rheology and which is suitable for being applied to the skin in order to improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin.
  • composition thus obtained is diluted and thickened.
  • Example 3 2 g of grape seeds and 2 g of Laminaria digitata alga powder are placed in a capsule and the capsule is placed in a commercial expresso machine. The steam produced by the machine subsequently passes through this pulverulent mixture until an extract of 67.2 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in the following preparation (32.8 g of 0/W emulsion) :

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  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Procédé d'élaboration de composition cosmétique à partir d'un extrait de plante comprenant des polysaccharides. L'invention concerne un procédé d'élaboration de composition pour application topique, qui comprend une étape de percolation de fluide sous pression à travers une ou plusieurs substances végétales sous forme solide ou pâteuse, au moins une de ces substances comprenant des polysaccharides, puis une étape d'incorporation de l'extrait obtenu dans une préparation concentrée. Les substances végétales sont choisies en particulier dans le groupe des algues et des plantes qui renferment des gomme ou de la pectine. L'invention concerne aussi la composition résultante et son utilisation dans la cosmétique, en particulier aux fins d'application sur la peau.
PCT/EP2007/059240 2006-09-20 2007-09-04 Procédé d'élaboration de composition cosmétique à partir d'un extrait de plante comprenant des polysaccharides Ceased WO2008034718A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0653838A FR2905863A1 (fr) 2006-09-20 2006-09-20 Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique a partir d'un extrait vegetal contenant des polysaccharides
FR0653838 2006-09-20
US84836806P 2006-10-02 2006-10-02
US60/848,368 2006-10-02

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2008034718A1 true WO2008034718A1 (fr) 2008-03-27

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2007/059240 Ceased WO2008034718A1 (fr) 2006-09-20 2007-09-04 Procédé d'élaboration de composition cosmétique à partir d'un extrait de plante comprenant des polysaccharides

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2008034718A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2567734A3 (fr) * 2011-09-06 2015-05-06 Stefanija Krug Substance pour la préparation d'un agent de rinçage de la bouche
AT17213U1 (de) * 2011-10-19 2021-09-15 Guilherme Beltrao De Almeida Kosmetische zusammensetzungen, verfahren zur herstellung einer kosmetischen zusammensetzung, kosmetische verwendung der zusammensetzung und kosmetisches verfahren zum glätten und/oder formen von keratinhaltigen materialien

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0728421A1 (fr) * 1995-02-21 1996-08-28 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Procédé d'extraction d'antioxydants de matière végétale
EP1563885A1 (fr) * 2004-01-29 2005-08-17 L'oreal Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour le traitement des matières kératiniques à partir de fluide sous pression et de substances végétales non colorantes.

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0728421A1 (fr) * 1995-02-21 1996-08-28 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Procédé d'extraction d'antioxydants de matière végétale
EP1563885A1 (fr) * 2004-01-29 2005-08-17 L'oreal Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour le traitement des matières kératiniques à partir de fluide sous pression et de substances végétales non colorantes.

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2567734A3 (fr) * 2011-09-06 2015-05-06 Stefanija Krug Substance pour la préparation d'un agent de rinçage de la bouche
AT17213U1 (de) * 2011-10-19 2021-09-15 Guilherme Beltrao De Almeida Kosmetische zusammensetzungen, verfahren zur herstellung einer kosmetischen zusammensetzung, kosmetische verwendung der zusammensetzung und kosmetisches verfahren zum glätten und/oder formen von keratinhaltigen materialien

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