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WO2008034702A1 - Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique comportant des extraits végétaux et des composés hydrolysables - Google Patents

Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique comportant des extraits végétaux et des composés hydrolysables Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008034702A1
WO2008034702A1 PCT/EP2007/059011 EP2007059011W WO2008034702A1 WO 2008034702 A1 WO2008034702 A1 WO 2008034702A1 EP 2007059011 W EP2007059011 W EP 2007059011W WO 2008034702 A1 WO2008034702 A1 WO 2008034702A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
properties
process according
composition
plant
preparation
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PCT/EP2007/059011
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English (en)
Inventor
Quang Lan Nguyen
Véronique Chevalier
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Filing date
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Priority claimed from FR0653842A external-priority patent/FR2905867A1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2008034702A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008034702A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9755—Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
    • A61K8/9767—Pinaceae [Pine family], e.g. pine or cedar
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • a subject-matter of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin and human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, and also a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances starting from this composition.
  • these treatment agents can be used for the treatment of the skin and other keratinous substances, such as the hair, eyelashes, lips and nails, for example for nourishing or moisturizing the skin, protecting it from external agents, removing dead skin, reducing wrinkles and fine lines and also coloured blemishes (defect of pigmentation or blemishes appearing with age, in particular on the hands, neck or face) and generally for providing the skin and other keratinous substances treated by the compositions comprising them with all the benefits related to these treatment agents.
  • the skin and other keratinous substances such as the hair, eyelashes, lips and nails
  • plant extracts are known in cosmetics, in particular for obtaining softening, anti- inflammatory, antipruritic, antiseptic, antiperspirant , astringent, soothing, healing, toning, stimulating, scenting, foaming, odorous, absorbent, thickening, antioxidant, emulsifying, photoprotective and/or texturing properties. It is also known, for example, to treat signs of ageing of the skin using plant extracts comprising polyphenols.
  • natural plant extracts are commercially obtained under cold conditions with a mixture of solvents, for example in an aqueous/alcoholic medium or with supercritical CO 2 and may comprise, for this reason, inevitable traces of hydrolytic or oxidasic enzymes which are naturally present in the plants used.
  • These enzymes even in trace amounts, can cause problems in the cosmetic compositions comprising them.
  • these enzymes can denature the plant extract comprising them, for example resulting in a phenomenon of browning, as can be observed with a peeled apple left in contact with the air.
  • hydrolysable active principles which may be also be present in the composition and which are sensitive to enzymatic hydrolysis, the consequence of which is an at least partial denaturation of these active principles and thus reduced effectiveness of these active principles.
  • adenosine destabilizes in the presence of enzymes .
  • the Applicant company has discovered, surprisingly, that, by using a novel process for the preparation of plant extracts to be incorporated in a cosmetic composition, it is possible to obtain, in a very short time, less than 2 minutes, plant extracts which no longer comprise enzymes and which thus no longer exhibit the disadvantages mentioned above.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is thus a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises
  • plant extract is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any extract obtained from a plant substance and the term "plant substance” is understood to mean any substance belonging to the plant sphere (trees, plants, weeds, flowers) .
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is a composition capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention.
  • a fluid under pressure the temperature of which is preferably greater than or equal to 3O 0 C, preferably ranging from
  • 4O 0 C to 12O 0 C is passed, for a very short period of time, less than one minute, through at least one plant substance in the solid or pasty form, preferably in the solid form and more preferably in the pulverulent form.
  • the plant extracts obtained after percolation are devoid of any trace of enzyme and these extracts and the compositions comprising them are stable .
  • composition intended to be used rapidly after its preparation, for example within the 5 minutes following its preparation, in particular after cooling to a cosmetically acceptable temperature, preferably less than 6O 0 C.
  • the composition can be used up to one week after its preparation.
  • the composition is intended for topical application and in particular application to keratinous substances, it comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium is understood to mean a medium which is non-toxic, which is capable of being applied to keratinous substances and which is pleasant to use.
  • keratinous substance is understood to mean the skin, scalp, lips and/or superficial body growths, such as the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair .
  • composition of the invention can constitute in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • the cosmetic treatment compositions can be prepared "on request” by mixing the plant extracts and other active principles according to the cosmetic properties desired.
  • the plant substances can be packaged in a ready- for-use device and it is not necessary to determine beforehand the concentrations of the plant extracts in solution, which limits the measurement errors of the user.
  • the process according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the use of multicompartment bottles, which renders the process particularly economical and safer for the user.
  • compositions comprising good cosmetic properties.
  • the keratinous substances treated with a composition obtained by the process according to the invention are protected, nourished and strengthened and exhibit a particular pleasant visual appearance .
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances and in particular the skin.
  • the process for the preparation of a topical composition comprises a stage of percolation of a fluid, preferably at a temperature at least equal to 3O 0 C, better still ranging from 3O 0 C to 15O 0 C, better still from 4O 0 C to 12O 0 C, under pressure, in particular under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3 x 10 5 Pa) , through at least one plant substance in the solid or pasty form.
  • Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium which allows the fluid to pass, under the action or the effect of the pressure.
  • the fluid can be composed of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, or of one or more physiologically acceptable, in particular organic, liquid and/or gaseous solvents or also of a mixture of steam, optionally accompanied by liquid water, and of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents.
  • the fluid comprises at least steam, which can be accompanied by liquid water, and more preferably still it is steam, which can be accompanied by liquid water.
  • the plant substance is in the solid form or in the pasty form, preferably in the solid form and more preferably still in the pulverulent form.
  • solid form is understood to mean a compound or a composition which is provided in the form of a lozenge (or tablet) , of a sheet or of a powder, a powder being a solid finely divided into particles, in contrast to a composition in the form of a cream or of a gel, which are soft compositions.
  • pulverulent is understood to mean a compound or a composition which is provided in the form of a powder (composed of particles or grains) .
  • pasty form is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a consistency intermediate between a solid phase and a liquid phase.
  • the viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa-s and more preferably still greater than 1 Pa-s, at 25 0 C with a shear rate of 10 s "1 .
  • the process of the present invention can be carried out from a conventional device which makes it possible to generate a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 3O 0 C and more preferably still ranging from 3O 0 C to 15O 0 C.
  • a conventional device which makes it possible to generate a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 3O 0 C and more preferably still ranging from 3O 0 C to 15O 0 C.
  • Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber equipped with a heating unit and a circuit for conveying the fluid produced to the plant extract.
  • the device comprises a tank for liquid (s) and a pump which makes it possible to convey the liquid or liquids to the chamber.
  • the liquid present in the tank is either water, or a physiologically acceptable solvent or a mixture of several physiologically acceptable solvents, or also a mixture of water and of one or more physiologically acceptable solvents.
  • the liquid comprises at least water and more preferably still it is water.
  • a particularly useful device for implementing the process of the present invention is a coffee machine of the "expresso" type.
  • Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in the documents AT-A-168 405, US-A-2 688 911, DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-I 265 636 and in Applications
  • the percolation stage is carried out with a fluid at a temperature at least equal to 3O 0 C, preferably between 3O 0 C and 15O 0 C, under a pressure of at least 3 bar and better still of at least 4 bar, preferably under a pressure of greater than 10 bar.
  • the pressure is at most 30 bar; it can, for example, range from 3 to 30 bar, preferably from 4 to 30 bar and very particularly from 10 to 30 bar.
  • the plant substance or substances, in the solid or pasty form, can be used directly, in the device generating the fluid under pressure, in a receptacle intended for this use. They can also be packaged in a specific packageing device of the single-dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to a fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bar.
  • a specific packageing device of the single-dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to a fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bar.
  • Such devices are, for example, described in the documents WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512 470, US-A-5 897 899 or WO-A- 99/03753. These packageing devices are generally airtight, watertight and/or lightproof.
  • the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets.
  • the housing is delimited by a container closed by a lid.
  • These devices can be manufactured from woven or nonwoven materials made of plastic, of plant material, for example of cellulose, of metal, such as aluminium, or of composite. Such devices are described, for example, in the documents WO-A-00/56629 , EP-A-512 470, US-A-5 897 899 or WO-A- 99/03753.
  • the plant substances which can be used according to the invention can be obtained from wood, leaves, grasses, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, pulp, peel, berries, pods and seeds of plants. They can be obtained, for example, from fruits (apple, kiwi fruit, blackcurrant, cherries) , including citrus fruits (lemon, orange, grapefruit) , leaves (green tea) , flowers (camomile) and any plant or any tree.
  • the plant substances used in the process according to the present invention are those comprising polyphenols and oligomers of the categories of flavonoids, such as: substances comprising flavonols and flavonol oligomers, which are, for example, in lemon peel; liquorice roots,- grape and blackcurrant seeds,- green tea leaves; pine bark; hawthorn berries,- cocoa pods and beans,- substances comprising flavones, which are, for example, in camomile leaves and skullcap root; substances comprising flavans, which are, for example, in flower petals (cotton, and the like) ; - substances comprising isoflavones, which are, for example, in soya germ; substances comprising flavanones, which are, for example, in pine bark or citrus fruit peel (orange, lemon, and the like) ; - substances comprising chalcones, which are, for example, in citrus fruit peel and apple peel; substances comprising arylchromans, which are, for example, in logwood and bra
  • the plant substance or substances can be employed as a mixture with one or more solid or pasty and preferably pulverulent adjuvants. Once the percolation is complete, these adjuvants generally remain in the percolator but they may also be found in the plant extract obtained after percolation.
  • the adjuvants can be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes, pigments, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides, such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, particles of resin, such as silicone or silica beads, talc, polyaspartic acid, borosilicates, in particular calcium borosilicate, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoro- ethylene (PTFE) , cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, optionally modified starch, maize seeds, polydimethylsiloxane gums, polyacrylamide, porous
  • the plant substance or substances are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, better still from 1 to 80% by weight and more preferably still from 2 to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of plant substances and adjuvants.
  • the topical composition obtained according to the process of the invention comprises, in addition to the plant extract or extracts and the component (s) of the fluid, namely water and/or the physiologically acceptable solvent (s), optionally all or a portion of the adjuvant or adjuvants presents in the solid or pasty mixture and the preparation comprising at least one hydrolysable hydrophilic compound.
  • This composition can advantageously be devoid of preservatives.
  • the amount of plant extract (s) obtained in stage (1) in the final composition obtained by the process of the present invention can range, for example, from 1 x 10 "3 to 99% by weight, preferably from 1 x 10 "2 to 50% by weight and more preferably still from 0.05 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the preparation A to which will be added the plant extract obtained by percolation can have any of the formulation forms generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • the preparations according to the invention can, for example, be provided in the form of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (0/W) or water-in-oil (W/0) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous gels, of dehydrated anhydrous products or of dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric nanoparticles, such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic type (liposomes) and/or nonionic type.
  • These preparations are prepared according to standard methods. In addition, they can be more or less fluid and have the appearance, for example, of a white or coloured cream, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a film or of a powder.
  • This preparation comprises at least one hydrolysable hydrophilic compound.
  • hydrolysable hydrophilic compound is understood to mean a compound which is soluble in water and which is sensitive to hydrolysis, that is to say which can be cleaved by hydrolysis. These compounds are chosen from nucleosides and glucosides, preferably of vegetable origin, which are sugar ethers, esters or amines.
  • hydrolysable hydrophilic compounds chosen from nucleosides and glucosides, of the glucosylated derivative of vitamin C or glucopyranosyl-1 -ascorbic acid (INCI name: ascorbyl glucoside) (sugar ether) , adenosine (sugar amine) , rutin (quercetin sugar derivative) , isoquercitrin, and their mixtures.
  • the amount of hydrolysable hydrophilic compound (s) in the preparation A can vary to a large extent and can range, for example, from 0.0001 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.005 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the preparation. In the final composition, this amount can range, for example, from 0.001 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the preparation comprises an oily phase
  • the latter preferably comprises at least one oil, in particular one physiologically acceptable oil. It can additionally comprise other fatty substances.
  • oils which can be used in the composition of the invention for example, of: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene ; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or also, for example, sunflower, maize, soybean, cucumber, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represent the residue of a fatty acid comprising from
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean, in the list of the oils mentioned above, any oil comprising predominantly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups .
  • the other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax, candililla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes,- silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl Cl -4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the "KSG" names by Shin-Etsu, under the "Trefil", "BY29” or "EPSX” names by Dow Corning or under the "Gransil” names by Grant Industries .
  • fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as
  • the emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W/0 or 0/W) .
  • the emulsion is a multiple emulsion, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in the preparation of the W/0 emulsions, for example, of sorbitan, glycerol or sugar alkyl esters or ethers,- silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the names DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C by Dow Corning, and such as alkyl dimethicone copolyols, for example the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning, the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt and the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 0 by Goldschmidt.
  • emulsifiers which can
  • coemulsifiers which can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of branched-chain fatty acid and polyol esters and in particular branched-chain fatty acid and glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, and sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures .
  • coemulsifiers which can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of branched-chain fatty acid and polyol esters and in particular branched-chain fatty acid and glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isost
  • emulsifiers which can be used in the preparation of the 0/W emulsions, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers, such as esters of fatty acids and of oxyalkylene (more particularly polyoxyethylene) polyols, for example polyethylene glycol stearates, such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl monostearate and of polyethylene glycol (100 EO) stearate sold under the name Simulsol 165 by Seppic,- oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 EO units, for example those sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema,- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters of esters of
  • Coemulsifiers can be added to these emulsifiers, such as, for example, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol , 2-hexyldecanol , 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol .
  • emulsions devoid of emulsifying surfactants or comprising less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition thereof by using appropriate compounds, for example polymers having emulsifying properties, such as the polymers sold under the names Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen by Noveon; or polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) or such as the polymer emulsified sold under the name Sepigel 305 by Seppic (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) ; particles formed of ionic or nonionic polymers, more particularly particles formed of anionic polymer, such as in particular polymers of isophthalic acid or of
  • AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra by Eastman Chemical. It is also possible to prepare emulsions devoid of emulsifiers which are stabilized by silicone particles or particles of metal oxide, such as TiO 2 , or others.
  • the preparation used in the process of the invention can also comprise adjuvants Standard in the cosmetics or dermatological field, such as active principles, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles, preservatives (for example, phenoxyethanol and parabens) , antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV screening agents, bactericides, odour absorbers, colouring materials, salts, a UV-A and/or UV-B screening agent (organic or inorganic) or surfactants.
  • the amount of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid spherules.
  • the preparation generally comprises water and it can also comprise one or more organic solvents. Mention may be made, as organic solvent, for example, of Ci-C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol , propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and their mixtures. These solvents can be present in proportions preferably of, for example, between 1 and 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the final composition, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight and better still between 2 and 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the preparation.
  • organic solvent for example, of Ci-C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol , propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl
  • the preparations can also comprise, as active principles other than the hydrolysable hydrophilic compound or compounds, for example, antiageing/antiwrinkle agents, such as antiglycation agents, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or which stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, and the like,- moisturizing agents,- desquamating agents,- agents for combating pollution and free radicals; slimming agents,- agents which act on the microcirculation; agents which act on the energy metabolism of the cells,- tightening agents,- antiacne agents; anti- inflammatory agents/agents for combating irritation.
  • antiageing/antiwrinkle agents such as antiglycation agents, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocyte
  • anthranilates in particular menthyl anthranilate,- benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1 , benzo- phenone-3, benzophenone-5 , benzophenone-6 , benzo- phenone-8, benzophenone-9 , benzophenone-12 and preferably benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone) or benzophenone- 4 (Uvinul MS40, available from BASF); benzylidene cam- phors, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulphonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosul- phate, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, tere- phthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid and preferably 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300, available from Mer
  • the amount of screening agents depends on the final use desired. It can range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additives so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
  • the final composition obtained by the process of the invention is generally provided in a form which depends on that of the preparation with which the plant extract obtained by percolation is mixed. It preferably has a pH of between 3 and 8, it being possible for this pH to be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents generally used in cosmetics or alternatively using conventional buffering systems.
  • the composition obtained by the process according to the invention can constitute in particular a skin care product which can, for example, have a nourishing effect, a moisturizing effect, an antiwrinkle effect, a cleaning effect (combating bacterial adhesion) , an antidesiccating effect or any other skin care application.
  • the final composition can also constitute a make-up product and in particular a foundation for colouring the skin and/or protecting it while contributing a care effect.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising the preparation of a cosmetic treatment composition according to the process as defined above and its application to the skin.
  • This application can be carried out, for example, via an operator or via a device not requiring human intervention.
  • the application time can vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.
  • the device of the invention can be the subject of a cosmetic kit comprising (1) one or more receptacles suitable for percolation under pressure by the fluid route, the receptacle or receptacles delimiting at least one housing comprising at least one plant substance in the solid or pasty form, and (2) a preparation A comprising at least one hydrolysable hydrophilic compound.
  • a further subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic kit comprising one or more single-dose packageing devices comprising at least one plant substance in the solid or pasty form and a preparation A comprising at least one hydrolysable hydrophilic compound .
  • a capsule comprising 5 g of beech buds is placed in a commercial expresso machine.
  • the steam produced by the machine subsequently passes through this pulverulent mixture until an extract exhibiting a final volume of 15 ml is obtained.
  • the extract is collected in the antiageing emulsion indicated below, comprising 0.05% by weight of adenosine.
  • Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165) 2 g
  • the product obtained by mixing the extract and the emulsion is provided in the form of a cream and it can be applied to the skin while retaining the biological activity of the active principle present and the stability of this active principle in the emulsion. It is suitable for softening and treating wrinkles and fine lines of the skin.
  • Example 2 Steam is passed, according to the same procedure as that of Example 1, over a capsule comprising 3 g of blackcurrant berry powder, until an extract exhibiting a final volume of 20 ml is obtained.
  • the aqueous extract obtained is collected in a beaker comprising the dry carrier indicated below, comprising 5% by weight of glucopyranosyl-1 -ascorbic acid, the dry carrier dissolving on contact with the extract.
  • a composition is thus obtained which is ready to be applied to the skin and to give radiance to the complexion of the skin.
  • the capsule comprising 4 g of cocoa pods is placed in a commercial expresso machine.
  • the steam produced by the machine subsequently passes through this pulverulent mixture until an extract exhibiting a final volume of 15 ml is obtained.
  • the extract is collected in the thermogelling solution indicated below.

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  • Biotechnology (AREA)
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  • Microbiology (AREA)
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  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé pour la préparation d'une composition pour une application topique, caractérisé par le fait qu'il comporte (1) un stade de percolation de fluide sous pression à travers au moins une substance végétale sous une forme solide ou pâteuse et (2) l'incorporation de l'extrait végétal obtenu à l'étape (1) dans la préparation A comportant au moins un composé hydrophile hydrolysable. Le composé hydrophile hydrolysable est, en particulier, un dérivé de sucre, tel que l'acide glucopyranosyl-1-ascorbique, l'adénosine, la rutine et l'isoquercitrine. En vertu du stade de percolation, l'extrait végétal n'a pas d'incidence défavorable sur la stabilité du composé hydrophile hydrolysable ou sur celle de la composition le comportant.
PCT/EP2007/059011 2006-09-20 2007-08-29 Procédé de préparation d'une composition cosmétique comportant des extraits végétaux et des composés hydrolysables Ceased WO2008034702A1 (fr)

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FR0653842A FR2905867A1 (fr) 2006-09-20 2006-09-20 Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique contenant des extraits vegetaux et des composes hydrolysables
FR0653842 2006-09-20
US84837806P 2006-10-02 2006-10-02
US60/848,378 2006-10-02

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FR2920988A1 (fr) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-20 Oreal Procede de coloration de la peau comprenant une etape de percolation
FR2920989A1 (fr) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-20 Oreal Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique a partir d'extraits colores et d'un support sec
US8440237B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2013-05-14 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical anti-acne formulations
US9138401B2 (en) 2011-12-19 2015-09-22 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US10500152B2 (en) 2014-03-10 2019-12-10 Mary Kay Inc. Skin lightening compositions
AT17213U1 (de) * 2011-10-19 2021-09-15 Guilherme Beltrao De Almeida Kosmetische zusammensetzungen, verfahren zur herstellung einer kosmetischen zusammensetzung, kosmetische verwendung der zusammensetzung und kosmetisches verfahren zum glätten und/oder formen von keratinhaltigen materialien
US20230255877A1 (en) * 2022-02-11 2023-08-17 Lg Household & Health Care Ltd. Composition for improving skin comprising steamed citrus peel extract as active ingredient

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Cited By (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2920989A1 (fr) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-20 Oreal Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique a partir d'extraits colores et d'un support sec
FR2920988A1 (fr) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-20 Oreal Procede de coloration de la peau comprenant une etape de percolation
US10953058B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2021-03-23 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US8440237B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2013-05-14 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical anti-acne formulations
US8481090B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2013-07-09 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US8747926B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2014-06-10 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US12268721B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2025-04-08 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US9561198B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2017-02-07 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US11638735B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2023-05-02 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
US10682381B2 (en) 2009-04-27 2020-06-16 Mary Kay Inc. Botanical formulations
AT17213U1 (de) * 2011-10-19 2021-09-15 Guilherme Beltrao De Almeida Kosmetische zusammensetzungen, verfahren zur herstellung einer kosmetischen zusammensetzung, kosmetische verwendung der zusammensetzung und kosmetisches verfahren zum glätten und/oder formen von keratinhaltigen materialien
US10780041B2 (en) 2011-12-19 2020-09-22 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US9861573B2 (en) 2011-12-19 2018-01-09 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US11865202B2 (en) 2011-12-19 2024-01-09 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US9138401B2 (en) 2011-12-19 2015-09-22 Mary Kay Inc. Combination of plant extracts to improve skin tone
US10500152B2 (en) 2014-03-10 2019-12-10 Mary Kay Inc. Skin lightening compositions
US20230255877A1 (en) * 2022-02-11 2023-08-17 Lg Household & Health Care Ltd. Composition for improving skin comprising steamed citrus peel extract as active ingredient

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