WO2008034565A1 - Peeling capsules - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic peeling preparations in the form of capsules, comprising - a capsule casing, - wherein the capsule material is selected from the group of cosmetically commonly used lipids, waxes, emulsifiers, natural or synthetic polymers that are solid at 25°C, and/or the mixtures of one or more substances that are solid at 25 °C, selected from the group of cosmetically commonly used lipids, waxes, emulsifiers, natural or synthetic polymers, and - a capsule filling of - an oil, or lipid mixture having a viscosity at 25°C of between 3 and 50,000 m Pas, preferably between 1,000 and 8,000, and particularly preferred between 2,000 and 4,000 m Pas, - one or more solid substances having an abrasive effect.

Description

 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft

description

peeling capsules

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological exfoliating preparations in the form of capsules comprising a dimensionally stable capsule shell and a filling.

The epidermis is composed of different cell types: the germ layer (stratum germinativum), the granular layer (stratum granulosum) and the horny layer (stratum corneum). In the germ layer, new cells are formed by division, which permanently migrate to the skin surface. On the way there, in the grain layer, they mutate and die. These dead horn cells make up the majority of the cells in the skin as horn columns. Within 28 days, the epidermis has renewed once. Most of the time, the dead horny cells gradually dissolve imperceptibly and automatically.

At heavily stressed body sites, such as Hands, feet or knees but also with very dry skin can accumulate more and more horny scales, which do not dissolve by themselves and thus lead to unsightly, dull and sometimes even frayed skin.

There are several ways to rid the skin of these excess horny scales. For one thing, there are various tools, such as pumice stones, washcloths or loofah roots. On the other hand, it is widely used the skin with loose grains, such as. Sand, salt, sugar or wheat meal to rub. There are also cosmetic preparations, such as washing scrubs, which usually contain abrasive plastic particles. To be able to easily remove these plastic particles from the skin, surfactants are added to most washing scrubs. However, these surfactants not only remove the plastic particles, but also skin-specific lipids that are on the skin and thus often lead to a tightening of the skin after use.

Wi \ 2005 \ 02387 The exciting skin feeling can be escaped by adding oils or lipids to the cosmetic peeling preparation. An example of particularly refatting exfoliating preparations are oil / salt mixtures.

Salt slurries in oil for use as a peeling preparation have been known to the consumer for some time (Example: "Grandmother's home remedy, newly discovered", © 2000 Reader's Digest, Verlag Das Beste GmbH, Stuttgart, Zurich, Vienna.) Such blends are also available as finished cosmetic products Commercially available (example: Alessandro® HandslUp Magic Manicure®) The fine salt particles in these mixtures settle over time at the bottom of the container to form a visible salt layer, and the mixing of the two phases can take a long time, depending on the particle size of the salt used Often it is not possible to achieve a uniform mixing of the product with the result that the oil is consumed to a faster extent, leaving behind a nearly dry and solid salt layer on the bottom of the container, which no longer can be used.

Approaches to remedy this deficiency are presented in the writings WO 00/04867 and US 5,866,145 emulsion capsules.

In the context of this invention, the problem of sedimentation is to be solved by the salt slurry is incorporated as a single use in a capsule. Cosmetic capsules as a dosage form of cosmetic agents - or even as a preparation form with peculiar application experience - are also known as such. They are described, for example, in the publications WO 05/20940 and WO 05/20949 and referred to as emulsion capsules.

The disadvantage of such emulsion capsules is that the capsule shell often smeared ugly in coarse chunks on the skin.

However, it has not been suggested by the prior art that cosmetic exfoliation preparations in capsule form consist of - a capsule shell, - Where the capsule material from the group of solid at 25 ° C cosmetically customary lipids, waxes, emulsifiers, natural or synthetic polymers or at 25 ⁰ C solid mixtures of one or more substances selected from the group of cosmetically customary lipids, waxes, emulsifiers and natural or synthetic polymers, and a capsule filling

an oil or lipid mixture which at 25 ° C. has a viscosity between 3 and 50,000 m Pas, preferably between 1,000 and 8,000 and very particularly preferably between 2,000 and 4,000 mPas, one or more solid substances which have an abrasive effect, the problems of the prior art would solve the technology.

In use, the entire capsule is triturated, both sheath and filling. The abrasive solid substance or substances in the filling gives an exfoliating effect, on the one hand the oils provide for a good sliding of the abrasive solids or substances and on the other hand they have a moisturizing effect.

The abrasive solid substance or substances in the interior also help in the dissolution of the capsule shell. The problem of the poorly distributed capsule shell to be observed with the emulsion capsules can be markedly improved by the addition of the abrasive solid substance or substances. The waxes of the capsule shell form a protective film. After thorough rubbing and spreading, remaining remains can be washed off under water. '

The property of the envelope is advantageously characterized in that it

• when rubbing or spreading the preparation melts on the skin and / or completely or partially liquid due to shear forces • and / or it dissolves in the filling and / or the Hautsebumlipiden or by mixing of inner phase and shell material and so for the User is no longer noticeable as separate from the filling present ingredient of the preparation. Many terms such as "spheres", "capsules" or "capsular preparation" can in principle be used to describe the capsules according to the invention, but under certain circumstances different meanings are assigned to these terms.

In general, according to the invention, a capsule is, for example, an approximately round or ellipsoidal object which is clearly distinguishable from its surroundings and which does not change its shape, or does not substantially change it, under light pressure, for example by being touched when it is removed from a package. In the context of this disclosure, this state of the capsule is also referred to as "dimensionally stable" or "fixed".

According to the invention, however, other forms of the capsules or the preparations are also conceivable, provided that the claimed characteristics of the capsule, the capsule shell and the filling are complied with.

The capsules of the invention have an average diameter of typically 5 to 50 mm and are preferably about pea to cherry size, ie about 8 to 15 mm in diameter. Thus, the capsules are individually handled and applicable.

The shell is advantageously built up from waxes such as ceresin, ozokerite, ester waxes, glyceride waxes and / or fatty alcohols and solid emulsifiers and mixtures thereof. The waxes may be natural waxes, modified natural waxes, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic by origin.

The shell material according to the invention is preferably composed of waxes which are selected from the group of

• natural waxes, more preferably carnauba wax, candelilla wax, shellac wax, berry wax (Rhus verniciflura), hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated palm or rapeseed oil, beeswax, wool wax (Eucerit), sunflower wax, jojoba wax • mono-, di- and triglycerides of higher saturated fatty acids with 10-40 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof, more preferably glyceryl tripalmitate (Dynasan 116) ^' and / or glyceryl stearate, Kahlwachs 6447 (mixture of fatty acid esters and hydrocarbon polymer), glyceryl tribehenate (Syncrowax HRC) Higher saturated fatty alcohols, particularly preferably those having 14-30 carbon atoms, very particularly preferably stearyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol and / or cetyl alcohol

Synthetic esters, preferably C _{16-36 alkylhydroxystearoyl} stearate, stearyl stearate, cetearyl behenate, C _2O-40 alkyl stearate, more preferably cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl myristate,

Polymer waxes, preferably polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl ethers, polydecene, particularly preferably polyvinyl stearyl ether and hydrogenated polydecene,

Copolymers, more preferably those of ethylene and vinyl acetate, and of polyvinylpyrrolidone and hexadecene, hydrocarbons / paraffin waxes, particularly preferably Cera microcrystalline, paraffin wax, ceresin, ozokerite

• silicone waxes

• chemically modified waxes

• any mixtures of waxes of said groups can be selected.

Particularly preferred waxes according to the invention for producing the casing according to the invention are cetyl palmitate, beeswax, hydrogenated coconut glycerides, methyl palmitate, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, ceresin, ozokerite, myristyl myristate, tripalmitin, tribehenin, glyceryl palmitostearate, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, C ₁₅ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearyl stearate and C ₁₈ - ₃ e-fatty acid triglyceride.

In the context of the present disclosure, the generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like occasionally uses the term "lipids", as is well known to the person skilled in the art, and the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are used interchangeably.

The internal oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 up to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, and the like.

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of octyl palmitate, octylcoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexylipalmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z. For example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example, which is available under the trade name Cetiol CC.

It is further preferred that the oil components from the group Isoeikosan, Neopentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat / dicaprate, Caprylic / Capric / Diglycerylsucci- nat, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C _12-13 alkyl tartrate, Triisostea - to select rin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. Furthermore, the oil phase may also advantageously contain nonpolar oils, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexa decane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in chain and / or net fashion via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of the silicon are replaced by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups et al.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, z. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. But other SiIi- Cones are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The oils which can be used for the inner oil phase are also advantageous additives for the shell material.

The preferred abrasive solids is crystalline common salt. But also sea salt, rock salt, boiling and saline salt and Himalayasalz.

However, it is also advantageous, alternatively or additionally, to use further abrasive solid substances selected from the group of solid, abrasive particles from all organic and inorganic solids on a natural and synthetic basis.

Fillers preferred according to the invention come from the group of inorganic or organic silicon compounds.

Of the inorganic silicon compounds, the layer silicates are particularly preferred. Of these, kaolin, talc and mica are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the preferred inorganic silicon compounds include the surface of the organically modified spherical particles.

Of these, particularly preferred are the polymethylsilsesquioxanes and hydrophobically modified aerosils, e.g. Aerosil R 972.

Organic silicon compounds include the siloxane elastomers and siloxane resins. Of these, particularly preferred are the KSP types of Shin Etsu, as well as the trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Further inventively preferred fillers come from the group of spherical particles. More preferably, the average particle diameter is less than 20 microns. Furthermore, preference is given to choosing spherical particles of organic origin. Furthermore, spherical particles having an average particle diameter of less than 10 μm are preferred. Of these, particularly preferred are nylon-12, which is sold for example as SP-501 or SP-500 from Kobo. Also preferred are polymethyl methacrylates, which is sold for example under the trade name Covabead LH 85 by LCW.

Further preferred are starch derivatives. Of these, aluminum starch, octenylsuccinate, corn starch or sodium cornstarch octenylsuccinate are particularly preferred.

It is inventively advantageous if the preparations, characterized in that they 0.001 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, in particular 1 - 4 wt. %, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fillers.

Advantageous capsule fillings are characterized by volume ratios of

- liquid oil or liquid lipid mixture to

- One or more abrasive solid substances, which are selected from the range of 70: 30 to 40: 60.

To produce the capsular preparations according to the invention, the casing and the filling are initially produced separately from one another. The coating of the filling with the wrapping material can be carried out in various ways, regardless of the composition of the filling material or the casing.

For example, the filler material may be frozen and then dipped in molten shell material, thereby forming a solid, closed shell on the filler material.

However, it is also possible to cast hollow spheres from molten cladding material which may be filled with filling material through a hole in the spherical wall. Thereafter, the hole is closed by a plug of wrapping material.

Another possibility of production via the so-called one-shot process. This wrapping and filling material are poured simultaneously. The casting machine dosed both masses from the divided Voratsbehälter by a kozentrische annular nozzle in a blister form. First, the enveloping mass starts over the annular gap and then follows with a short delay, the filling on the inner nozzle. Thus, the finished capsule can be poured in one step. This method is the preferred production method according to the invention.

It is also possible to first pour half hollow spheres, if necessary to fill them, bring them to coincide and finally merge together by thermal treatment. In addition, two such hemispheres can be made, with one or both having a hole for later filling, then welded into a hollow sphere and finally filled through the filling hole, which is then closed as described above.

It is according to the invention advantageous, although not mandatory, to coat the peeling capsules by known methods. Advantageously according to the invention, the coating material is selected from the group of sugars customarily used for this purpose, but also conventional coating varnishes, e.g. based on polymethacrylates od. Methylcellulose or a salt crust can be used.

To improve the storage stability and breaking strength polymers can be applied to the shell. Suitable polymers are cellulose ethers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates, as well as Eudragit.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to coat the capsules with polishing or hard waxes. These include, in particular, shellac, carnauba or beeswax as well as other lacquer waxes. Drag coating is the wrapping of a core with layers of sugar. Today, more and more other coating materials are used. The applied layer either from sugar (= classic sugar dragee) or from another film former (= film-coated tablets). The layer is usually colored and may optionally contain other substances in order to change the properties of the finished dosage form in the desired manner (smell, taste, ...)

Sugar dragee is the classical coating method, ie coating the kernels with sugar solutions. High production costs, the difficulty of completing the process Automate) and the long production time of up to one week per batch leave this process in favor of the film tablet recede more and more.

When Kaltdragieren the sugar solution is applied at normal room temperature, in hot draging (Heißdragieren), the heated sugar syrup is used (about 50 - 60 ° C).

The process takes place in Dragierkesseln, in which the cores are rotated by rotation of the drum. The coating liquid is added and gradually covers the cores. At the same time, it is carefully dried (warm air or UV lamp). For heat-sensitive substances can also be dried over the supply of cold air.

The process is repeated until a sufficiently thick and stable layer has formed around the core. This can require up to 50 Dargiervorgänge. The cores thus experience a size and volume increase.

Detailing process:

• Impregnated to protect against the penetration of the coating liquid into the core; e.g. with shellac solutions or polymers.

• Cover for mechanical protection and preparation of the application. Topping syrup contains next to the sugar still binder (PVP, cellulose, etc.) »application (up to 50 times)

The application is the actual coating process. Repeat until the desired thickness is reached.

• To dye

For dyeing, dye is added to the last coat (1 - 3%). "Smooth

The smoothing syrup is applied to remove bumps. Slow drying is important, therefore no heat.

• polishing

To improve the appearance, run with oil or polishing wax in special felt-lined drums without heat application. Schnelldragierung

The Schnelldragierung corresponds in their essential operations of the above-described coating. The time savings are realized by being satisfied with a 70% -90% lower layer thickness. Furthermore, dragee emulsions are used for fast draging. In just a few hours you can make dragees

The following examples illustrate the capsular preparations according to the invention. Unless stated otherwise, the percentages are based on the total mass of the preparations.

Formulation Examples:

shell material:

I.

C18-36 fatty acid triglycerides 12.2% hydrogenated cocoglycerides 60.96% caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 12.2% cyclomethicone 12.2% silica dimethylsilylate 2.44%

II.

Isopropyl stearate 47, 17%

Glyceryl stearate 1%

Polyethylene 10%

Silica dimethylsilylate 5% triceteareth-4 phosphate 0.3%

Cetyl alcohol 36, 5%

Filling material:

Jojoba oil 50%

Common salt 50%

IV.

Stearyl alcohol 0.25% beeswax 0.25%

C18-36 fatty acid triglycerides 2.75%

Paraffin oil 46.55%

Perfume 0.2%

Sea salt 50%

V.

Cetyl alcohol 10%

Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 40%

Sodium chloride 50% Preparation: Example I with IV:

Heat Ciβ- ₃₆ fatty acid triglycerides, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides and cyclomethicone to 80 ⁰ C. Then, while stirring, add silica dimethyl silylate to the molten lipid mixture.

Stearyl alcohol, beeswax, C18-36 fatty acid triglycerides and paraffin oil also melt and mix with sea salt.

Using the one-shot method, the sheath and filling material are shed in one step towards the capsule.

Finally, the capsules are coated in a coating pan with a sugar solution or wax dispersion.

Preparation: Example II with III:

For the coating, warm isopropyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, triceteareth-4 phosphate and cetyl alcohol to 80 ° C. Then, while stirring, mix silica dimethylsilylate and polyethylene under the molten lipid mixture.

For the filling mix jojoba oil and table salt in a ratio of 1: 1.

Using the one-shot method, the sheath and filling material are shed in one step towards the capsule.

Finally, the capsules are coated in a coating pan with a sugar solution or wax dispersion. Preparation: Example I with V:

Heat Ciβ- ₃₆ fatty acid triglycerides, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides and cyclomethicone to 80 ⁰ C. Then, while stirring, add silica dimethyl silylate to the molten lipid mixture.

Cetyl alcohol and caprylic / capric acid triglycerides also melt and mix with sodium chloride.

Using the one-shot method, the sheath and filling material are shed in one step towards the capsule.

Finally, the capsules are coated in a coating pan with a sugar solution or wax dispersion.

Claims

claims 1. Cosmetic peeling preparations in capsule form - a capsule shell, - Where the capsule material from the group of solid at 25 ⁰ C cosmetically customary lipids, waxes, emulsifiers, natural or synthetic polymers or at 25 ⁰ C solid mixtures of one or more substances selected from the group of cosmetically customary lipids, waxes, emulsifiers and natural or synthetic polymers are selected, and - a capsule filling - an oil or lipid mixture which is or which C has a viscosity of 3 to 50,000 mPas, preferably from 1000 to 8000 and most preferably between 2000 and 4000 mPas at 25 ^0, - One or more abrasive solid substances. 2. peeling preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the capsule material is solid or dimensionally stable up to a temperature of at least 35 ⁰ C. 3. peeling preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the waxes are selected from the group Cetylpa Imitat, Cetylrizinoleat, beeswax, hydrogenated Coconut glycerides, methyl palmitate, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, ceresin, ozokerite, myristyl myristate, tripalmitin, tribehenin, glyceryl palmitostearate, hydrogenated rapeseed oil and / or C ₁₅ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearyl stearate, preferably ceresin and / or ozokerite. 4. peeling preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are substantially spherical and have an average capsule diameter of 5 to 50 mm, preferably 8 to 15 mm. 5. peeling preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the average capsule volume is about 0.25 to 25 ml. 6. peeling preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the average thickness of the capsule shell is 0.001 to 3 mm. 7. peeling preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the abrasive solid substances are selected from the group of common salt, rock salt, evaporated salt, sea salt or Himalayasalz. Plastic particles of viscose, cellulose, polypropylene, polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), aramid, nylon, kevlar, polyvinyl derivatives, polyurethanes, polylactide, polyhydroxyalkanoate, polycarbonate, polystyrene, cellulose esters and / or can be advantageously used for example Polyethylene, and difficult or insoluble crystals such as Calcium sulfate, calcium carbonate, encapsulated or unencapsulated crystals, e.g. Calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sugars, silicates, e.g. Sea sand, clay, sludges, crushed or ground natural products such as e.g. Wheat, flaxseed, rice, corn, almonds, nuts, nut shells, pumpkin seeds, cumin, crushed or ground natural sponges, e.g. Luffagurke, natural and synthetic waxes such. Rice bran wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, beeswax. 8. peeling preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the capsule fillings by volume ratios of - Liquid oil or liquid lipid mixture to - Distinguish one or more abrasive solid substances, which are selected from the range of 70: 30 to 40: 60. 9. peeling preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the grain size of the abrasive substance or substances used is between 40 and 2000 microns, more preferably less than 800 microns.