WO2008058718A1 - Emulsion with dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride - Google Patents

Abstract

Process for the preparation of emulsions comprising the following process steps: a) incorporation of anionic polymeric thickeners into the aqueous phase, b) incorporation of the emulsifier dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride into the oil phase, c) combining of the aqueous phase and the oil phase and subsequent homogenization.

Description

 description

Emulsion with dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride

The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic emulsion containing dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride and anionic polymeric thickening agents.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Although the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man. An essential part of a beautiful and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin.

For the skin to fulfill its biological functions to the full extent, it needs regular cleaning and care. Cleansing of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and remnants of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products are mostly used for

Moisturizing and moisturizing the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them.

Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only to a limited extent miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. Viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.

In order to keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and to prevent segregation of the phases, so-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions. at Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a nonpolar, lipophilic structural element. In the late 1940s, a system was developed to facilitate the selection of emulsifiers. Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 1 1 water-soluble, hydrophilic.

Emulsifiers can be present in different forms, for example as anionic emulsifiers (for example: potassium cetyl phosphate), as nonionic emulsifiers (for example: polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether) or as cationic emulsifiers (for example dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride).

Cationic emulsifiers are used in cosmetics in particular when the preparation contains other cationic ingredients, since these are incompatible with anionic emulsifiers.

Cationic emulsifiers, in particular dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride (INCI: Distearyldimonium Chloride, CAS 0764-2), when used in cosmetic preparations, lead to aqueous formulas which rapidly enter the skin and produce a dull skin sensation. These sensory properties are quite desirable in a variety of cosmetic products. However, there are also cosmetic formulations in which a more viscous character of the emulsion is preferred, for example, when there is a risk that the preparation "drips" uncontrolled when applied to the skin.

Cationic emulsions based on dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride can be thickened according to the prior art only with nonionic polymeric thickeners. For this purpose, almost exclusively cellulose derivatives are used. However, such nonionic thickeners have the disadvantage that their thickening power is relatively low, so that relatively large amounts must be incorporated into the preparation to achieve a higher viscosity. Such emulsions then have the disadvantage of producing an unpleasant skin sensation when applied to the skin. In addition, the emulsions get a "jig-like" character, the preparation is, similar to "jelly" blocky rigid instead of viscous-creamy. The removal from the storage container and the distribution on the body is difficult because the formulation has a reduced adhesion to the skin. It "crumbles" rather than letting it pass smoothly. Due to these negative properties, beauticians prefer the use of anionic polymeric thickeners, especially crosslinked polyacrylates. Preparations thickened with cross-linked polyacrylates have the advantage, among other things, that they are excellently spreadable and feel less sticky on the skin than preparations thickened with nonionic thickeners. However, the combination of cationic emulsifiers with crosslinked polyacrylates has hitherto not been possible in the prior art, since both constituents in the emulsion combine by way of salt formation, which leads to precipitations from the preparation and to phase separation.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop cosmetic emulsions based on cationic emulsifiers, which no longer have the disadvantages of emulsions based on cationic emulsifiers.

In particular, the object of the present invention was to develop a cosmetic emulsion which has the advantages of an emulsion prepared with cationic emulsifiers and does not show the disadvantages of emulsions thickened with nonionic thickeners.

It was the object of the present invention to develop a process in which cationic emulsifiers can be combined with anionic thickeners to form a stable cosmetic emulsion.

The objects are surprisingly achieved by a process for preparing emulsions comprising the following process steps: a) incorporation of anionic polymeric thickeners into the aqueous phase, b) incorporation of the emulsifier dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride into the oil phase, c) combining of the aqueous phase and the oil phase and subsequent homogenization.

Furthermore, the objects are achieved by a cosmetic preparation which is produced by this method.

The solution of the problem was particularly surprising because it was not possible in the past experience to produce stable preparations by the combination of cationic emulsifiers with anionic thickeners. Experience so far has always shown that the cationic emulsifiers and the anionic thickeners combined by way of salt formation, leading to precipitation and phase separation of the emulsion. Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that one or more compounds selected from anionic polymeric thickeners are selected from the group of compounds of crosslinked polyacrylates, hydrophobically modified conjugated polyacrylates and copolymers comprising acrylic acid as polymer component.

The use of carbomer and acrylates / C 10-30 AlkIyI acrylate crosspolymer is preferred according to the invention.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains the anionic polymers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains the anionic polymers in a concentration of 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous phase contains the anionic polymers in a concentration of from 0.1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous phase contains the anionic polymers in a concentration of 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

It is inventively advantageous if the thickener is used in the water phase, wait until the thickener is swollen and then the pH is adjusted to 7.

It is inventively advantageous if the anionic polymeric thickeners are incorporated at a temperature of 15 to 30 ⁰ C in the aqueous phase.

It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion contains dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride in a concentration of 0.3 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion contains dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride in a concentration of 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

It is inventively advantageous if the kationsiche emulsifier and all other solid ingredients are incorporated to shoot in you oil phase.

It is inventively advantageous if the emulsifier dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride is incorporated at a temperature of 50 to 90 ⁰ C in the oil phase.

It is inventively preferred if the emulsifier dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride is incorporated at a temperature of 70 to 80 ⁰ C in the oil phase.

It is inventively advantageous if the aqueous phase and the oil phase are combined at a temperature of 15 to 40 ⁰ C.

It is inventively preferred when the aqueous phase and the oil phase at a temperature of 20 to 3O ⁰ C are combined.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, when the oil phase is added in the submitted water phase.

The preparation of the partial phases can be done with the known, conventional systems.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the homogenization of the two phases of the emulsion is carried out with the aid of a Krieger mixer or Becomix.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase is from 1: 1 to 20: 1.

It is preferred according to the invention if the weight ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase is from 3: 2 to 20: 1.

According to the invention, all cosmetic preparations which are prepared by the process according to the invention. The individual phases of the emulsion according to the invention may contain, inter alia, the following ingredients:

It is inventively preferred if the oil phase according to the invention contains Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are compounds according to the invention which have the following structure:

RI R-CH-CH ₂ OH

It is inventively advantageous if the oil phase contains Guerbet alcohols in a total amount of 0.5 to 20,% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is inventively preferred if the oil phase contains Guerbet alcohols in a total amount of 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if Guerbet alcohol is 2-octyldodecanol which has the following structure:

C-10H19CHCH2OH C-8Hi7

It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion contains at least 10% by weight of glycerol, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the emulsion contains at least 15% by weight of glycerol, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention is present in the form of a G7W emulsion.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more further UV filters. Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), terephthalidene dic- imheresulfonic acid; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, Octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate (2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI : Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts; 3- (4- (2,2-bisethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine); Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone); 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the (CAS Nos 288254-16-0); 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-thazine Merocyanines, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide in a concentration of 0.01 to 40% by weight and more preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains, as further ingredients, one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, polydocanol, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, genistein, flavonoids, Carotenoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, ascorbic acid and derivatives, oxygen, tocopherol + ester, urea; long and short chain hyaluronic acid (i.e., hyaluronic acid having an average molecular weight of 1 million to 3 million daltons, as well as 5,000 daltons - 1 million daltons); dihydroxyacetone; 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid and / or licochalcone A contains.

Such active ingredients may be contained individually or in combination in the preparation in each case in a single concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation in this.

It is inventively advantageous if the preparation of the invention contains one or more compounds selected from the group of parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol.

Such active ingredients may be contained individually or in combination in the preparation in each case in a single concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation in this. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention may also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Advantageous z. BNN-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: palatinol M, DMP), 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester, and especially 3- (Nn Butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (available commercially from Merck under the tradename Insekt Repellent® 3535.) The repellents can be used either singly or in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application or spreading on the skin surface) and / or hydrating the horny layer positively influence.

Advantageous humectants (moisturizers) for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for protection against skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which are e.g. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9) and / or talc.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and also their Ethers, preferably propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents (especially DHA) and thickeners which can be chosen advantageously from the group of silica, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention advantageously contains film formers. Film formers for the purposes of the present invention are substances of different composition, which are characterized by the following property: If a film former is dissolved in water or other suitable solvents and the solution is then applied to the skin, it forms a film after the solvent has evaporated which essentially serves to fix the light filters on the skin and thus to increase the water resistance of the product.

It is particularly advantageous to use the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

zu wählen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den

to choose. Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example, the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are among the

Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 are available from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation.

Also advantageous are other polymeric film formers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, sold under the tradename Flexan 130 at National Starch and Chemical Corp. and / or polyisobutene, available from Rewo under the tradename Rewopal PIB1000. Further suitable polymers are, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols, acrylate / octylacralylide copolymer (Dermacryl 79). Also advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil Dimerdilinoleat (CAS 646054-62-8, INCI Hydrogenated Castor OiI Dimer Dilinoleate), which can be purchased from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast DA-H or PPG-3 Benzylethermyristat ( CAS 403517-45-3), which can be obtained under the trade name Crodamol STS from Croda Chemicals. The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Also advantageous according to the invention are z. As natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as ^" beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodecyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural ones Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and

Dialkyl, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl, for example, that available under the trade name Cetiol CC in the company. Cognis.

It is further preferred that the oil component or components are selected from the group of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate,

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C ₁₂ -i ₃ -alkyl lactate, di-C ₁₂ -i ₃ -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaurethrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyliso- sorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of Ci. _{2 15} alkyl benzoate comprises or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (for example, that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB at the company. CP Hall), tridecyl salicylate (which is available under the trade name Cosmacol ESI from Fa. Sasol), C12-C15 alkyl salicylate (under the trade name Dermol NS in the Fa Alzo available), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexyl naphthalate {Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from Symrise).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13- 16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.

It is advantageous to use cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) and dimethicone as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclo trisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), phenyltrimethicones.

The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously comprise one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products: (a) siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _{1, 5} and / or R ₃ SiO ₀ , 5 and / or

SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, d ^ alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or ToIyI), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO RSiO to _{1, 5} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1 is selected; (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the quantities used being so selected be such that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)

In the range of 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and

In the range of 1 to 50 mol%, when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageously in the context of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer (s) are in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

Advantageously present in the form of spherical powder siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for example, that of DOW CORNING available under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils of hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic applications antioxidants can be used.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Further preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof, are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic active ingredients, where preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for protection against aesthetically unattractive skin lesions, as described for. Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity). , Hypo and false pigmentation (eg, age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like) and tired skin. Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Advantageous in the context of the present invention are preparations for the care of the skin: they can serve the cosmetic sunscreen, as well as make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

According to their structure, cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, for example, be used as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention to prepare cosmetic preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protective substances. So z. B. in day creams or

Make-up products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. Also, UV protectants, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Also favorable are cosmetic preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen.

In particular, according to the invention, the use of the preparation according to the invention for protection against aging of the skin (in particular for protection against UV-related aging of the skin) and as a sunscreen agent.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention advantageously has a pH of 5 to 8. This can be adjusted by the conventional acids, bases and buffer systems.

For use, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

Comparative tests

The following comparative experiments may serve as evidence of the surprising, inventive

Effects serve:

Two production method:

Examples

¹ Pemulen TR-1, Noveon The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

² Pemulen TR-1, Noveon

³ Carbopol 980, Noveon

⁴ Dry FIo-PC, National Starch

⁵ Tapioca Pure, National Starch

Claims

claims 1. A process for the preparation of emulsions comprising the following process steps: a) incorporation of anionic polymeric thickeners in the aqueous phase, b) incorporation of the emulsifier dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride in the oil phase, c) combining the aqueous phase and the oil phase and subsequent Homogenization. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as anionic polymeric thickener one or more compounds are selected from the group of compounds of polyacrylates, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates and copolymers containing acrylic acid as a polymer building block. 3. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains the anionic polymers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. 4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase, the anionic polymers in a concentration of 0.1 to 4 % By weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase. 5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride in a concentration of 0.3 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. 6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase and the oil phase are combined at a temperature of 15 to 40 ⁰ C. 7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase of 1: 1 to 20: 1. 8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifier Dimethyldioctadecylammoniumchlorid at a temperature of 50 to 90 ⁰ C is incorporated into the oil phase. 9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic polymeric thickeners are incorporated at a temperature of 15 to 30 ⁰ C in the aqueous phase. 10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil phase contains Guerbet alcohols. 11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that emulsion contains at least 15% by weight of glycerol, based on the total weight of the preparation. 12. Cosmetic preparation prepared by a process according to any one of the preceding claims.