WO2006128584A1 - Cosmetic preparations having a content of an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymer thickening agents, selected from the group of cellulose derivatives - Google Patents
Cosmetic preparations having a content of an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymer thickening agents, selected from the group of cellulose derivatives Download PDFInfo
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- WO2006128584A1 WO2006128584A1 PCT/EP2006/004643 EP2006004643W WO2006128584A1 WO 2006128584 A1 WO2006128584 A1 WO 2006128584A1 EP 2006004643 W EP2006004643 W EP 2006004643W WO 2006128584 A1 WO2006128584 A1 WO 2006128584A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
Definitions
- the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives and their use in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermatology.
- the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration.
- the horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
- a skin model that is widely used today in the art summarizes the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
- the corneocytes horny cells
- the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
- the epidermal lipids In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
- NMF Natural Moisturizing Factor
- the active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them better than moisturizing agents will better protect against dehydration by emulsifiers and coemulsifiers better enhance the barrier performance of the skin better protects the skin from exogenous noxae better against the symptoms of sensitive skin better protects the skin roughness reduces acting better against aging skin as the active ingredients, drug combinations and preparations of the prior art.
- an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), which is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, especially potassium ions and is conserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and obtainable by enzymatic hydrolysis in water of solubilized aniseed fruits, wherein the ratio of raw material to extract is about ⁇ ⁇ and is available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France
- Thickeners selected according to the invention from the group of cellulose derivatives are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
- methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
- Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
- sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
- Hydrophob-modified hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS at Aqualon.
- Further cellulose derivatives according to the invention are the hydroxyethylethylcellulose (Elfacos CD 481 from Akzo Nobel)
- Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the purposes of the present invention advantageously contain 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers.
- the molar ratio of an aqueous anise fruit extract to one or more thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1: 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 to choose.
- the preparations are particularly advantageously characterized in that the an aqueous aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 3.00% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
- Cosmetic preparations in which the aqueous aniseed extract is present in concentrations of 0.01-10.00% by weight, preferably 0.05-5.00% by weight, more preferably 0.1-3.00% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present, are also advantageous according to the invention.
- thickener or thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 - 3.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present or present
- antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
- the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
- Preferred antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
- vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
- vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
- the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
- cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients
- Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropylglycidyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxy - Benzoeklarealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, Diazolidinylhamstoff, benzoic acid and the like.
- the solvent used may be: Water or aqueous solutions;
- Oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride fatty acid ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate, as well as vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil; Cyclomethicones, dimethicone, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, octyldodanol, squalane, jojoba oil fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g.
- mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
- alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
- Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents used for this purpose, preferably water, also contain organic and / or inorganic thickeners. Furthermore, these thickeners are part of cosmetic emulsions.
- compositions for such preparations, for example, copolymers of CIO 3 o acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof.
- the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.”
- Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
- Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations.
- Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
- advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984.
- ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (commercial name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide.
- gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carrageenan, starch and starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid locust bean gum, aluminum silicates and also acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acids such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)
- the thickening agent is present in the gel, dispersion or emulsion e.g. in an amount of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight.
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Abstract
Description
Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft
Beschreibungdescription
Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an einem wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt und einem oder mehreren polymeren Verdickungsmitteln, gewählt aus der Gruppe der CellulosedehvateCosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickening agents selected from the group of cellulose derivatives
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an einem wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt und einem oder mehreren polymeren Verdickungsmitteln, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate sowie deren Verwendung auf dem Gebiete der kosmetischen sowie der pharmazeutischen Dermatologie.The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives and their use in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermatology.
Die äußerste Schicht der Epidermis, das Stratum corneum (Hornschicht), ist als wichtige Barriereschicht von besonderer Bedeutung u.a. für den Schutz vor Umwelteinflüssen und Austrocknung. Die Hornschicht wird im Kontakt mit der Umwelt ständig abgenutzt und muss deshalb ununterbrochen erneuert werden.The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration. The horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
Ein heute in der Fachwelt weitverbreitetes Hautmodell fasst das Stratum corneum als Zwei- Komponenten-System, ähnlich einer Ziegelsteinmauer (Ziegelstein-Mörtel-Modell), auf. In diesem Modell entsprechen die Korneozyten (Hornzellen) den Ziegelsteinen, die kompliziert zusammengesetzte Lipidmembran in den Interzellularräumen entspricht dem Mörtel.A skin model that is widely used today in the art summarizes the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the corneocytes (horny cells) correspond to the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
Außer ihrer Barrierewirkung gegen externe chemische und physikalische Einflüsse tragen die epidermalen Lipide auch zum Zusammenhalt der Hornschicht bei und haben Einfluss auf die Hautglätte. Im Gegensatz zu den Talgdrüsenlipiden, die keinen geschlossenen Film auf der Haut ausbilden, sind die epidermalen Lipide über die gesamte Hornschicht verteilt.In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
Das äußerst komplexe Zusammenwirken der feuchtigkeitsbindenden Substanzen und der Lipide der oberen Hautschichten ist für die Regulation der Hautfeuchte sehr wichtig. Daher enthalten Kosmetika in der Regel, neben ausgewogenen Lipidabmischungen und Wasser, wasserbindende Substanzen. Hierzu zählen u.a. Polyole wie Glycerin, Sorbit und Xylit, ethoxylierte Polyole sowie hydrolysierte Proteine. Weitere Anwendung finden die im natürlichen Feuchthalte- faktor (sogenannter Natural Moisturizing Factor = NMF) enthaltenen Substanzen, wie z.B. Harnstoff, Kohlenhydrate (z. B. Glucose) und Aminosäuren (z. B. Serin). Diese Substanzen sind daher für die Pflegeleistung eines kosmetischen Produktes von besonderer Bedeutung, insbesondere auch aufgrund ihrer relativ guten Haut- und Schleimhautverträglichkeit.The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances. These include polyols such as glycerin, sorbitol and xylitol, ethoxylated polyols and hydrolyzed proteins. Further applications are found in natural moisturizing factor (so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor = NMF), such as urea, carbohydrates (eg glucose) and amino acids (eg serine). These substances are therefore of particular importance for the care performance of a cosmetic product, in particular because of their relatively good skin and mucous membrane compatibility.
Ungelöst war jedoch das Problem, dass bei der Einarbeitung von wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakten in O/W-Emulsionen und Hydrodispersionen aufgrund des natürlichen Salzgehaltes der Extrakte die Emulsionsstabilität und Viskosität der Emulsionen stark reduziert wurde. Dieses Problem ließ sich mit den ansonsten in kosmetischen Emulsionen eingesetzten Acrylat-Polymeren (Carbomere) nicht in angemessenem Umfang beheben.Unresolved, however, was the problem that in the incorporation of aqueous anise fruit extracts in O / W emulsions and hydrodispersions due to the natural salt content of the extracts, the emulsion stability and viscosity of the emulsions was greatly reduced. This problem could not be adequately resolved with the acrylate polymers (carbomers) otherwise used in cosmetic emulsions.
Es war nach all diesem überraschend und nicht vorhersehbar, dass kosmetische Zubereitungen, enthaltendAfter all this, it was surprising and unpredictable that cosmetic preparations containing
(i) einen wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt und(i) an aqueous aniseed extract and
(ii) mindestens ein polymeres Verdickungsmittel gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederi- vate(ii) at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group of cellulose derivatives
die Nachteile des Standes der Technik beseitigen.eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
Ferner war überraschend, dass die Verwendung von Verdickungsmitteln gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate zur Erhöhung der Stabilität kosmetischer Zubereitungen den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen würde.Furthermore, it was surprising that the use of thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives to increase the stability of cosmetic preparations would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Es war für den Fachmann ferner nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombinationen bzw. kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese enthaltend besser als feuchtigkeitsspendendes Agens wirken besser gegen Austrocknung durch Emulgatoren und Coemulgatoren schützt besser die Barriereleistung der Haut steigern besser die Haut vor exogenen Noxen schützt besser gegen die Symptome der sensiblen Haut schützt besser die Hautrauhigkeit reduziert besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken als die Wirkstoffe, Wirkstoffkombinationen und Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.Furthermore, it has not been foreseen for the skilled person that the active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them better than moisturizing agents will better protect against dehydration by emulsifiers and coemulsifiers better enhance the barrier performance of the skin better protects the skin from exogenous noxae better against the symptoms of sensitive skin better protects the skin roughness reduces acting better against aging skin as the active ingredients, drug combinations and preparations of the prior art.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß insbesondere vorteilhaft, einen wässrigen Frucht-Extrakt aus Anis (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), der reich an anorganischen Mineralien wie Natrium- und Magnesium-Ionen, besonders an Kalium-Ionen ist und mit Butylenglycol 0.36% und Parabenen 0.14% konserviert ist und durch enzymatische Hydrolyse in Wasser solubilisierter Anis-Früchte erhältlich ist, wobei das Verhältnis von Rohmaterial zu Extrakt etwa ΛΛ beträgt und unter dem Handelsnamen Bioxilift bei der Gesellschaft SILAB, St. Viance, Frankreich erhältlich istIt is particularly advantageous according to the invention, an aqueous fruit extract from anise (Pimpinella anis fruit extract), which is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, especially potassium ions and is conserved with butylene glycol 0.36% and parabens 0.14% and obtainable by enzymatic hydrolysis in water of solubilized aniseed fruits, wherein the ratio of raw material to extract is about Λ Λ and is available under the trade name Bioxilift from SILAB, St. Viance, France
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaftAccording to the invention advantageous
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Verdickungsmittel gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate sind beispielsweise Methylcellulosen, als welche die Methylether der Cellulose bezeichnet werden. Sie zeichnen sich durch die folgende Strukturformel ausThickeners selected according to the invention from the group of cellulose derivatives are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula
Strukturformel I in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Structural formula I in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
Insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die im allgemeinen ebenfalls als Methylcellulosen bezeichneten Cellulosemischether, die neben einem dominierenden Gehalt an Methyl- zusätzlich 2-Hydroxyethyl-, 2-Hydroxypropyl- oder 2-Hydroxybutyl-Gruppen enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt sind (Hydroxypropyl)methylcellulosen, beispielsweise die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Methocel E4M bei der Dow Chemical Comp, erhältlichen. Erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft ist Natriumcarboxymethylcellulose, das Natrium-Salz des Glykolsäureethers der Cellulose, für welches R in Strukturformel I ein Wasserstoff und/oder CH2-COONa darstellen kann.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are also generally referred to as methylcelluloses cellulose mixed ethers, in addition to a dominating content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp. Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
Besonders bevorzugt ist außerdem die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Natrosol Plus 330 CS bei Aqualon erhältliche, .hydrophob-modifizierte Hydroxyethylcellulose. Weitere erfindungsgemäße Cellulosederivate sind das Hydroxyethylethylcellulose (Elfacos CD 481 der Firma Akzo Nobel)Also particularly preferred is the. Hydrophob-modified hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS at Aqualon. Further cellulose derivatives according to the invention are the hydroxyethylethylcellulose (Elfacos CD 481 from Akzo Nobel)
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten - bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen - vorteilhaft 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren Acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonsäure- Polymeren.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the purposes of the present invention advantageously contain 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, das molare Verhältnis von einem wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt zu einem oder mehreren Verdickungsmitteln gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate aus dem Bereich von 100 : 1 bis 1 : 100 , bevorzugt 50 : 1 bis 1 : 50, insbesondere bevorzugt 20 : 1 bis 1 : 20 zu wählen.It is advantageous according to the invention, the molar ratio of an aqueous anise fruit extract to one or more thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives from the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1: 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 to choose.
Entsprechend der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendung sind die Zubereitungen besonders vorteilhaft dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der einen wässrigen Anisfruchtextrakt in Konzentrationen von 0,01 - 10,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 5,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 3,00 Gew.- %, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegen.According to the use according to the invention, the preparations are particularly advantageously characterized in that the an aqueous aniseed extract in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 3.00% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen, in denen der wäßrige Anisfruchtextrakt in Konzentrationen von 0,01 - 10,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 5,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 3,00 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt., sind ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft.Cosmetic preparations in which the aqueous aniseed extract is present in concentrations of 0.01-10.00% by weight, preferably 0.05-5.00% by weight, more preferably 0.1-3.00% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present, are also advantageous according to the invention.
Vorteilhaft sind auch kosmetische Zubereitungen, in denen das oder die Verdickungsmittel, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Cellulosederivate in Konzentrationen von 0,01 - 10,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 5,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 3,00 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt oder vorliegenAlso advantageous are cosmetic preparations in which the thickener or thickeners selected from the group of cellulose derivatives in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 - 3.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present or present
Es ist ebenfalls vorteilhaft, den Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung übliche An- tioxidantien zuzufügen. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden. Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.It is likewise advantageous to add conventional antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants. The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind Vitamin C und dessen Derivate, Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.Preferred antioxidants are vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin A and its derivatives.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation ,
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Antioxidantien, Parfüme, Mittel zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende Substanzen, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, perfumes, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Vorteilhafte Konservierungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise lodo- propylbutylcarbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxy- benzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, Imidazolidinylhamstoff, Diazolidinylhamstoff, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr.Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, iodopropylglycidyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxy - Benzoesäurealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, imidazolidinylurea, Diazolidinylhamstoff, benzoic acid and the like.
Sofern die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung eine Lösung oder Lotion darstellt, können als Lösungsmittel verwendet werden: Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen;If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is a solution or lotion, the solvent used may be: Water or aqueous solutions;
Öle, wie Caprylic/Capric-Triglycerid Fettsäureether wie Dicaprylylether, Kohlensäureester wie Dicaprylylcarbonat, sowie pflanzliche Triglyceride wie Sonnenblumenöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl; Cyclometicone, Dimeticone, C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, Octyldo- decanol, Squalan , Jojobaöl- Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit I- sopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; insbesondere Cetylpalmitat, Methylpalmitat Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Hexandiol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methylpropandiol und analoge Produkte.Oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride fatty acid ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate, as well as vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil; Cyclomethicones, dimethicone, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, octyldodanol, squalane, jojoba oil fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; in particular cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, hexanediol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether, ethylhexylglycerol, methylpropanediol and analogous products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein.In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch als Gele vorliegen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt am erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoff und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch organische und / oder anorganische Verdickungsmittel enthalten. Weiterhin sind diese Verdickungsmittel Bestandteil kosmetischer Emulsionen.Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents used for this purpose, preferably water, also contain organic and / or inorganic thickeners. Furthermore, these thickeners are part of cosmetic emulsions.
Vorteilhafte Verdickungsmittel für derartige Zubereitungen sind beispielsweise Copolymere aus Cio-3o-Alkylacrylaten und einem oder mehreren Monomeren der Acrylsäure, der Methacrylsäure oder deren Ester. Die INCI-Bezeichnung für solche Verbindungen ist „Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind die Pemulen® Typen TR 1 , TR 2 und TRZ von der Fa. Goodrich (Noveon).Advantageous thickening agents for such preparations, for example, copolymers of CIO 3 o acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon).
Auch Carbopole sind vorteilhafte Gelbildner für derartige Zubereitungen. Carbopole sind Polymere der Acrylsäure, insbesondere auch Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Copolymere. Vorteilhafte Carbopole sind beispielsweise die Typen 980, 981 , 984 1342, 1382, 2984 und 5984. ebenso die ETD- Typen 2001 , 2020, 2050 und Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM/MA Decadien Crosspolymer (Handels- name Stabileze 06), Polyglycerylmethacrylat sowie Polyacrylamid. Weitere vorteilhafte Gelbildner für derartige Zubereitungen sind Xanthan Gummi, Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Carrageenan, , Stärke und Stärkederivate, Hyaluronsäure Johannisbrotkernmehl, Aluminiumsilikate sowie Acryla- midomethylpropylsulfonsäuren wie beispielsweiseAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copo- lymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (commercial name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide. Further advantageous gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carrageenan, starch and starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid locust bean gum, aluminum silicates and also acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acids such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)
Das Verdickungsmittel ist in dem Gel, der Dispersion bzw. der Emulsion z.B. in einer Menge zwischen 0,01 und 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,1 und 2 Gew.-%, enthalten.The thickening agent is present in the gel, dispersion or emulsion e.g. in an amount of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight.
Es folgen vorteilhafte Ausführungsbeispiele der vorliegenden Erfindung. Following are advantageous embodiments of the present invention.
Claims
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|---|---|---|---|
| DE102005026002A DE102005026002A1 (en) | 2005-06-03 | 2005-06-03 | Cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymeric thickening agents selected from the group of cellulose derivatives |
| DE102005026002.0 | 2005-06-03 |
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| WO2006128584A1 true WO2006128584A1 (en) | 2006-12-07 |
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| PCT/EP2006/004643 Ceased WO2006128584A1 (en) | 2005-06-03 | 2006-05-17 | Cosmetic preparations having a content of an aqueous aniseed extract and one or more polymer thickening agents, selected from the group of cellulose derivatives |
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| WO2010009809A3 (en) * | 2008-07-22 | 2010-05-27 | Beiersdorf Ag | Active substance combinations consisting of an anis fruit extract and hyaluronic acid |
| US20150164780A1 (en) * | 2012-07-06 | 2015-06-18 | Beiersdorf Ag | Active ingredient combinations of magnolia bark extract and hyaluronic acid and the cosmetic and/or dermatological use thereof |
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| DE102005026002A1 (en) | 2006-12-14 |
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