WO2005110342A1 - Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid for epilation - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and/or glycyrrhetinic acid for epilation.

Description

 Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid for epilation

Technical field

The present invention relates to the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid for epilation.

State of the art

Body hair removal is often performed for cosmetic reasons, but is also required for a number of clinical indications. This is e.g. B. in the case of hypertrichosis, a genetic predisposition to excessive body hair, caused by various factors such as medication, chemicals, injuries, allergies, infections, vaccination, cancer and the like. a. can be induced. In so-called animal fur nevus, there are large pigment spots with increased hair and hyperpigmentation, which have an increased risk of melanoma. Hirsutism is a type of male hair in women that can be associated with or without hormonal disorders depending on the system. In the case of the diseases mentioned, epilation of the affected skin areas is carried out regularly.

The pathological excessive hair is treated mainly for psychosocial reasons. The affected patients, especially children and women, suffer greatly from excessive hair and can become depressed. Animal fur nevi often cover a significant part of the body's surface and cannot be surgically removed, especially in childhood. In order to at least improve the patient's appearance, the hair is usually removed. Since nevi have an increased tendency to malignant degeneration, any skin irritation in the corresponding skin regions should be avoided in this process. When removing body hair, a basic distinction must be made between depilation and depilation. Epilation is the complete removal or destruction of the hair shaft, while depilation only destroys the visible part of the hair. A permanent cosmetic or therapeutic success can only be achieved by epilation.

There are currently a wide variety of epilation aids available, which are summarized in a review by Kunte and Wolff ("Current therapy of hypertrichoses" dermatologist 52: 993-997, 2001). Epilation can be mechanical, chemical, biochemical, electrical or by photothermolysis be achieved.

Mechanical hair removal uses wax, tweezers or epilation devices. During wax epilation, warm wax is applied to the areas to be depilated and then removed abruptly after cooling. The strong terminal hairs are pulled out, while the short fine vellus hairs usually remain. The procedure is painful and often causes inflammation and scars (Mimouni-Bloch et al. "Severe folliculitis with keloid scars induced by wax epilation in adolescents" Cutis 59: 41-42, 1997). Similar symptoms arise when the hair is tweezed or Epilation devices are plucked from the skin.

In chemical therapy (Natow "Chemical removal of hair" Cutis 38: 91-92, 1986), thioglycolates are used which, through the hydrolysis of cysteine-disulfide bridges, lead to structural changes and weakening of the hair shaft. The hair can then be easily scraped off or washed off, the skin becomes very irritated with this procedure.

In electrolysis, the application of a low current in the hair follicle through the reaction of table salt with water leads to the formation of sodium hydroxide. The chemical reaction and the subsequent destruction of the tissue take about 30 to 60 seconds per hair follicle. The treatment can be painful, the effectiveness is assessed very differently. During thermolysis, high-frequency current flows are briefly generated on the hair follicle. The follicle is destroyed by the heat generated. Electrolysis and thermolysis can cause follicular inflammation and hyperpigmentation, and even scars during intensive therapy.

Laser-assisted photothermolysis is currently widely used. After absorption of visible light, hair follicles are destroyed by the resulting heat. Damage to the adjacent skin areas can be avoided by cooling (Klavuhn and Green "Importance of cutaneous cooling during photothermal epilation: theoretical and practical considerations" Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 31: 97-105, 2002; McCoy et al. "Long-pulsed ruby laser for permanent hair reduction: histological analysis after 3, 4 ¹ 2 and 6 months. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine 30: 401-405, 2002). Laser-assisted photothermolysis shows good results with pigmented hair, but is almost ineffective for patients with light hair. It is also expensive, painful and can cause skin hyperpigmentation.

Eflornithine, which inhibits ornithine decarboxylase and thus polyamine synthesis, is used for topical drug therapy for hypertrichoses (Malhotra et al. "Percutaneous absorption and pharmacokinetics of eflomithine HCL 13.9% cream in woman with unwanted special hair" Journal of Clinical Pharmacology 41: 972- 978, 2001) The use of eflornithine leads to an inhibition of hair growth, but this is reversed after the treatment has been discontinued, and acne-like changes in the skin, follicular inflammation, burning and stinging have been observed as undesirable side effects.

Extracts of licorice root and individual substances contained therein are also used for epilation. JP-A-2001-261538 describes in connection with the use of mechanical epilation techniques an epilation-supporting effect of licorice root extract and the flavonoids contained therein, especially glabrin. JP-A-2001-002539 discloses the use of glycyrrhetic acid as a suitable additive for epilation plasters. The glycyrrhetic acid suppresses the sensation of pain during mechanical hair removal. Interestingly, in JP-A-2001 -002539 glycyrrhetinic acid is said to have an anti-epilation effect. At the highest concentration of glycyrrhetic acid used, more hair remaining after mechanical epilation is observed than at low concentrations.

JP-A-09227341 describes licorice root extract and especially glabrin as an antiandrogenic agent which is suitable, inter alia, for the treatment of hormone-related alopecia (hair loss). This is an example of a widespread opinion in the literature that licorice root extract or glycyrrhizin are considered suitable agents to support hair growth.

US Pat. No. 5,554,608 describes reduced hair growth when topically applied an inhibitor of protein kinase C. In addition to a number of other compounds, glycyrrhizic acid and 18-β-glycyrrhetic acid are also used as examples of protein kinase C inhibitors. When a composition containing 10% glycyrrhizic acid is used, a hair growth reduction of 46% is observed, while a composition containing 7.5% 18-ß-glycyrrhetic acid causes a hair growth reduction of 44%.

Despite the extensive state of the art, there is currently no known topically applied formulation for permanent hair removal (epilation) which can be used in a simple manner without pain and without any health risk. The known substances and methods for hair removal are unsatisfactory, since they either involve complex and costly treatments or involve pain, skin irritation and folliculitis. Presentation of the invention

The object of the present invention is to provide a formulation for depilation which can be applied painlessly and in a simple manner. This object is achieved according to the invention by the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid for epilation according to independent claim 1, by the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to independent claim 13 and by the medicament according to independent claim 19. Further advantageous aspects, details and refinements of the invention result from the dependent claims, the description, the examples and the figures.

The present invention relates to the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid for epilation.

As already stated, 18-ß-Glyzyrrhetinsäure and Glyzyrrhizinsäure are used in connection with epilation techniques. Surprisingly, it has now been shown that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid are significantly superior in their epilating action to the free acids and also to other salts of these acids.

The use according to the invention of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or of glycyrrhetic acid for epilation is associated with a whole series of advantages. The use of the compounds mentioned is namely a simple and inexpensive method of depilation, which causes painless permanent removal of unwanted hair. In addition, no skin irritation is observed.

By using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid as pure substances, other, sometimes questionable ingredients of the licorice root extract previously used for epilation can be dispensed with. Questionable components of the licorice root extract are e.g. B. plant hormones, resinous substances and possible residues of pesticides or other pesticides. The licorice root extracts may also contain other unknown components with a potential health risk.

In the use according to the invention, it is also possible to dispense with mechanical aids which are otherwise customary and which are associated with severe discomfort during hair removal, since a complete epilation effect occurs solely through the use of the compounds mentioned. In addition, unlike licorice root extract, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid are colorless and therefore also cosmetically acceptable and easier to formulate. Large areas of skin can be treated easily and painlessly in this way.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid are used by topical application. A topical application has the advantage that only the affected skin areas are treated specifically. Basically, the entire skin can be used as an application site. In particular, due to the absence of mechanical aids, the use according to the invention for hair removal is particularly useful on pain-sensitive areas of the skin such as, for example, B. Face skin, bikini line and armpit suitable.

The anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid, which counteracts a malignant process, represent a further particular advantage. This is an advantage especially when treating animal fur nevi. Since nevi have an increased tendency to malignant degeneration, any skin irritation in the corresponding skin regions should be avoided when removing the hair. This can be achieved by using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid according to the invention. While the Glyzyrrhetinsäure has only one COOH group, the Glyzyrrhizinsäure has three carboxylic acid functions. Mono-, di- and tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are encompassed by the present invention. According to particularly preferred embodiments, the mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are used in the form of Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ mixed salts. The Mono-Ammonium Glyzyrrhizinat can namely be obtained from the extract of the licorice root. Since glycyrrhizin is present in the licorice root bound to potassium and calcium, mixed salts are always obtained in the above illustration, which can then be used directly as a mixed salt for epilation.

In the context of the present invention, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid can in principle be used as pure substances or in the form of mixtures of ammonium glycyrrhizinate and ammonium glyzyrrhetinate, the ammonium glyzyrrhizinate being composed of the respective individual substances or mixtures of mono-, Di- and tri-ammonium glycyrrhizinate can be composed.

The ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid are preferably used according to the invention for cosmetic and / or therapeutic depilation.

According to further preferred embodiments, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid are used together with other medicinal substances, herbal medicinal products and / or other auxiliaries and mixtures thereof. As examples of such drugs, herbal medicines and other auxiliaries which may be mentioned are: thioglycolates such as Veet ^®, wax, anti-androgens, spironolactone, elfornithine, inhibitors of protein kinase C, inhibitors of adhesion molecules, components of licorice extract as Glabrin, flavonoids, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetic acid, potassium Salts of glycyrrhizic acid, potassium salt of glycyrrhetic acid and extracts from the natural substances aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, soybean, Saxifraga, Swertia, Japanese pepper, Podocarpus chinensis, Gynostemma pentaphyllum, henna leaves, Lithospermum, Curcuma longa, and Olibanum (Boswellia).

Epilation is supported in various ways by the substances mentioned: thioglycolates are e.g. used for the hydrolysis of disulfide bridges in the hair shaft, wax is used for mechanical hair removal, antiandrogens and spironolactone are used for the systemic treatment of hirsutism in women, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhhetic acid, potassium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and the potassium salt of glycyrrhetic acid, which have a painful effect with the simultaneous use of mechanical epilation techniques is an advantage.

Without wishing to restrict the present invention to a specific mechanism of action, it should be mentioned that, when using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid, it has been shown that the hair growth by these compounds, in contrast to the mechanism described in US Pat. No. 5,554,608 is inhibited or reduced. Rather, an accelerated hair growth can be observed, which then leads to total hair loss.

The present invention also includes the use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid for the production of a pharmaceutical preparation or a medicament for epilation. The epilation is preferably carried out for cosmetic and / or therapeutic reasons.

The ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid are preferably used in the form of solutions, in particular alcoholic solutions, tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol , in the form of a moist dressing, an occlusion dressing, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular in the form of a deodorant stick. The present invention also includes pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and medicaments which contain at least one ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments preferably contain mono-, di- and / or tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid. The mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are preferably in the form of Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ mixed salts.

According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation or the medicament as active ingredient are in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 90% by weight, in particular in an amount of 1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%. The doses mentioned have been found to be particularly effective in animal experiments.

According to further particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments are intended for topical application. A topical application has the advantage that only the affected skin areas are treated specifically. Basically, the entire skin can be used as the application site, but in particular due to the absence of mechanical aids, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention for hair removal are particularly useful on pain-sensitive areas of the skin, such as, for. B. Face skin, bikini line and armpit suitable.

The pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation and the medicament are preferably a solution, in particular an alcoholic solution, a tincture, a lotion, an emulsion, an ointment, a cream, a paste, an oil, a gel, a powder, a spray or aerosol, a moist dressing, an occlusion dressing, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular a deodorant stick. If the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid are processed in a deodorant spray or deodorant stick, then the hair removal can take place on the side and means no additional expenditure of time for the hair removal treatment.

As already described, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid are preferably used in the form of solutions. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the pharmaceuticals are also preferably in the form of a solution. In principle, all skin-compatible and non-toxic solvents can be used as solvents in all cases. In addition, the solutions can contain all common detergents. Particularly suitable and therefore preferred in the context of the present invention are the solvents ethanol, glycerol, water and mixtures thereof. The addition of urea to the solvents or solvent mixtures is particularly preferred.

Mixtures of ethanol and water are particularly preferably used, with particularly good results at an ethanol concentration of between 5 and 50% by weight, in particular between 10 and 30% by weight and particularly preferably at a concentration of around 20% by weight be achieved. Mixtures of glycerol and water are also preferably used, with particularly good results at a glycerol concentration between 5 and 75% by weight, in particular between 10 and 50% by weight, preferably between 20 and 40% by weight and particularly preferably can be achieved at a concentration of around 30% by weight. In addition, solutions of urea in water are preferably used, with particularly good results at a urea concentration of between 5 and 20% by weight, in particular between 7.5 and 15% by weight and particularly preferably at a concentration of around 10% by weight. -% be achieved.

Mixtures of ethanol, urea and water are also preferably used. In this context, the use of a mixture of 20% by weight of ethanol, 10% by weight of urea and 70% by weight of water has proven to be particularly advantageous exposed. In such a solvent, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid only gel at a temperature of around 30 ° C. and less. When choosing the solvent, it is essential to ensure that the freezing point of the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid should be at the lowest possible temperature. The salts mentioned already gel in water at a temperature of 60 ° C, which makes skin-friendly application difficult.

Ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid including the mono-, di- and tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and the mixed salts already mentioned are particularly preferably used for the treatment of diseases and in particular for the treatment of hypertrichoses, animal skin nevus and hirsutism , With these diseases, large areas of the skin are affected by excessive hair growth. The pain-free treatment when using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid according to the invention represents a very special advance in these cases.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and glyzyrrhetinic acid are used in the aftertreatment of hair removal by photothermolysis. The fact that around 30% of all hair is at a certain point in time at rest means that not all hair can be removed during laser treatment. In order to remove the hair that was in the resting phase during a first laser treatment, further expensive laser treatments must be carried out on the same skin area. Additional sessions can be avoided by using ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and glyzyrrhetic acid for after-treatment after laser epilation.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention are usually used together with a physiological carrier. According to preferred embodiments of the In the present invention, the physiological carrier comprises one or more adjuvants, as are usually used in such preparations, such as. B. fats, oils, superfatting agents, waxes, silicones, emulsifiers, dispersants, pearlescent waxes, alcohols, polyols, consistency agents, stabilizers, thickeners, swelling agents, hydrotropes or moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, polymers, surfactants, plasticizers, foam retardants, alkalinization agents or acidifying agents, softeners, adsorbents, light stabilizers, electrolytes, sequestering agents, organic solvents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, in particular fungicides or bactericides, antioxidants, biogenic agents, vitamins, protein hydrolyzates, mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, enzyme inhibitors, in particular MMP1-inhibitors , Deodorants or odor absorbers, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, α-hydroxy and ketocarboxylic acids, fragrances, dyes and / or pigments.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and also the medicaments according to the present invention can furthermore contain at least one plant extract. The plant extract can be produced, for example, by extraction of the entire plant, but also exclusively by extraction from flowers and / or leaves and / or seeds and / or other parts of plants. In the context of the present invention, the extracts from the meristem, that is to say the divisible formation tissue of the plants, and the extracts from special plants such as aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, soybean, Saxifraga, Swertia, Japanese pepper, Podocarpus chinensis, Gynostemma pentaphyllum, henna leaves and Lithospermum. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention can also contain mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts.

For example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, in particular, however, polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. Steam distillation is one of the preferred extraction methods. However, the extraction can optionally also take the form of dry extraction.

The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction. Depending on the choice of extracting agent, it may be preferred to stabilize the plant extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hardened vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C8-22 fatty acids with 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. B. hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol capryl - / - / capric acid glycerides,

Polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and in the medicaments according to the present invention.

With regard to the plant extracts that can be used, reference is also made to the extracts that are published on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guide to the Ingredient Declaration of Cosmetics by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, starting table. In the use according to the invention for cosmetic purposes in particular, it is advantageous if, in addition, substances are used which inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce the formation of odors. The skin treatment compositions according to the present invention can contain, for example, esterase inhibitors as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid , Monoethyl adipate,

Diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate,

Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.

In particular, MMP-1-inhibiting substances are also suitable as enzyme inhibitors, in particular selected from photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran (available as a commercial product Lipochroman 6 ™ from Lipotec SA) and their mixtures. Precocenes are chromium derivatives that occur in plants and are known as hormones (The Merck Index, 12th edition, Merck & Co. 1996). The MMP-1-inhibiting effect of these substances is described in the German patent application DE 100 16 016 A1. They are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and also the medicaments according to the present invention can furthermore contain at least one ester of retinol (vitamin A-ι) with a C ₂ -ι ₈ carboxylic acid. Preferred retinol esters are retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate; retinyl palmitate is particularly preferred. The retinol esters are in amounts from 0.1 to 5, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In preferred embodiments, in particular when using the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid in the form of an emulsion, a surfactant solution or in the form of a cleaning agent, at least one surface-active substance is additionally used as an emulsifier or dispersant , Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. W / O emulsions which are stabilized without hydrophilic emulsifiers are disclosed in the published documents DE 198 16 665 A1 and DE 198 01 593 A1.

For example, the following emulsifiers can be used in the context of the present invention:

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, with C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and with Cs-Cis-alkylphenols,

Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with Cs-Cβ polyols, in particular with glycerol,

- Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred,

- Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. B. the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,

- adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil, Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

- Phospholipids, especially the glucose phospholipids, which, for. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. B. egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are obtained,

- fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,

- polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy- stearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product)

- Linear and branched Cs-C ₃ o fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the overall formulation.

In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 and below is according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, in the Rompp Lexicon Chemie (Eds .: J. Falbe, M. Regitz) , (1997), page 1764, listed definitions of the HLB value. Such suitable emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R1 - O - R2, in which R1 is a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 20-30 C atoms and R2 is hydrogen, one Group with the formula - (CnH2nO) xH with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 carbon atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. A behen or is particularly preferred as the emulsifier of the formula R1 - O - R2 Erucyl derivative, in which R1 represents a linear, terminally substituted alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 22 carbon atoms.

Further preferably suitable emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the addition products of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or else with behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the Monoester of suitable Cι ₆ -C ₃ o-fatty acids with polyols such. B. pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methylglucose. Examples of such products are e.g. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

In another preferred embodiment, at least one ionic emulsifier selected from anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and cationic emulsifiers is contained. Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates. Zwitterionic emulsifiers carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^" or -SO ₃ ^" group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.

In addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, ampholytic emulsifiers contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic emulsifiers are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N- alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl- amidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.

The ionic emulsifiers are present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention can furthermore contain at least one organic or mineral or modified mineral light protection filter. The light protection filters are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. A distinction is made between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred.

The organic UV filters used in the context of the present invention are preferably selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5- Triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters and any mixtures of the components mentioned. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3- dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid-2-octyl ester, 4 - (Dimethylamino) - benzoic acid amyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester,

4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, Salicylic acid 4-isopropyl benzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester (3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (octyl triazone) and dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB) and any mixtures of the components mentioned.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene-sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. For example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (e.g. Parsol® 1789) can be used in various UV Make B filters. In a further preferred embodiment, the pharmaceutical preparations and pharmaceuticals according to the present invention therefore contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B Filters selected from 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is accordingly between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The preferred inorganic light protection pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally dispersed metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of have less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative can be contained in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention. Both vegetable and animal protein hydrolyzates can be used. Animal protein hydrolyzates are e.g. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. Soybean, wheat, almond, pea, potato and rice protein hydrolyzates. Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

Instead of the protein hydrolyzates, amino acid mixtures obtained in other ways can be used, and also individual amino acids and their physiologically tolerable salts. The amino acids preferred according to the invention include glycine, serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, pyroglutamic acid, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine and histidine and zinc salt Acid addition salts of the amino acids mentioned.

It is also possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, plants, marine life forms or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. Cationic protein hydrolyzates are preferred, the underlying protein portion of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are some of the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) listed and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin. The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.

In the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and in the medicaments according to the present invention, the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives or the amino acids and their derivatives are contained in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention can contain at least one mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide or their derivatives.

Suitable monosaccharides are e.g. B. glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxy sugar fucose and rhamnose and amino sugar such as. B. glucosamine or galactosamine. Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose are preferred; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Suitable oligosaccharides are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, e.g. B. sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred oligosaccharide is sucrose. The use of honey, which predominantly contains glucose and sucrose, is also particularly preferred.

Suitable polysaccharides are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units. Preferred polysaccharides are the starches made up of α-D-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Chemically and / or thermally modified starches, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyl distarch phosphate or the trade products Dry Flo®. Dex-tranes and their derivatives, e.g. B. dextran sulfate. Also preferred are nonionic cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose, and cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. the commercial products Cel-quatä and Poly-mer JRä, and preferably Cel-quatä H 100, Cel-quatä L 200 and Polymer JRä 400 (Polyquaternium-10) and Polyquaternium-24. Other preferred examples are Polysaccharides from fucose units, e.g. B. the commercial product Fucogel®. The polysaccharides built up from amino sugar units, in particular chitins and their deacety-lated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides are particularly preferred. The preferred mucopoly-saccharides according to the invention include hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, e.g. B. sodium hyaluronate or dimethyl-silanol-hyal-uronate, and chondroitin and its derivatives, e.g. B. chondroitin sulfate. Furthermore, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention can contain at least one film-forming, emulsion-stabilizing, thickening or adhesive polymer selected from natural and synthetic polymers which can be cationically, anionically, amphoterically charged or nonionically. Cationic, anionic and nonionic polymers are preferred.

Preferred among the cationic polymers are polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, e.g. B. the commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (with Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt).

Preferred anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredients used according to the invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as monomers. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. In this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid groups being wholly or partly as sodium, Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt are present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention. Also, as a compound with isohexadecane and sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 Polysorbate-80 sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer according to the invention have proved to be particularly wirksarη.

Other particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the commercial products Carbopol ^® . A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains, as a monomer, 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated CIO-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer with the The aforementioned networking agents can be networked. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and the Carbopol ^® types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which can be partially saponified, e.g. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, which, for. B. are sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF).

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the effect of the topically applied formulations can be further optimized using fatty substances. Suitable fat substances are for example: vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil,

- liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) or polydecene,

- Di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), n-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.

- Fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-3 o-fatty acids. Cιo-22 fatty acids are preferred. Examples are the isostearic acids and isopalmitic acids such as the fatty acids sold under the trade name Edenor ^® . Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidonic acid, Gadoleinsäure, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures. The fatty acid cuts that are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is particularly preferred.

- Fatty alcohols, especially saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with 6 - 30, preferably 10 - 22 and very particularly preferably 12 - 22 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, z. B. decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, z. B. 2-ethylhexanol, this list is intended to have exemplary and non-limiting character.

- Ester oils, that is, esters of Cβ- ₃ o-fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. The substances mentioned above can be used as alcohol and acid components of the ester oils. According to the invention isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid -C _{6- 6- 8} alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid 2-ethyl hexyl esters, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl palate, isopropyl allyl palate, isolyl palate, isopropyl ethoxylate, isolyl palate, isopropyl ethoxylate, n-butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.

- Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, the full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid being preferred, but also esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid are suitable and particularly preferably the esters of Cι ₂ -Cι ₅ fatty alcohols, e.g. B. are the commercial products Cosmacol ^® from EniChem, Augusta Industriale,

- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene-glycol-di-iso-stearate, propylene-glycol-di-pelargonate, butanediol-di-isostearate, neopentyl-glycol-di-caprylate,

- Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

- Mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerin, e.g. B. Monomuls ^® 90-018, Monomuls ^® 90-L12 or Cutina ^® MD,

- Waxes, especially insect waxes such as beeswax and bumblebee wax, plant waxes such as candelilla wax and camauba wax, fruit waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin, paraffin, triglycerides saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids, such as. B. hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols (e.g. Syncrowachs ^® ) or polyols with 2-6 C atoms, esters of optionally hydroxylated C _2- carboxylic acids with lanolin alcohols and C-ι _{2- 8} fatty alcohols, cholesterol or lanosterol esters of Cιo- ₃ o-fatty acids, ethoxylated Cι _2-20 fatty acid glycol esters, fatty acid monoalkanolamides with a Ci ₂ - ₂₂ acyl residue and a C. _2-4 -alkanol residue, synthetic fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, e.g. B. stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate and ester waxes from natural fatty acids and synthetic C _20- fatty alcohols (INCI name C20-40 alkyl stearates), silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which can, if desired, be crosslinked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably the substances with the INCI name Dimethicone Copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxy groups.

The amount of fatty substances used is 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanol amide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition Partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention can furthermore contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are especially selected from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythic acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid, gluconic acid, gluconic acid, gluconic acid, gluconic acid, gluconic acid , The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are contained in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example:

- Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C, E and F, in particular 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), ß-carotene (provitamin of vitamin A-ι), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and the palmitic acid esters , Glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol and its esters, e.g. B. the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate; also vitamin F, which is understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid;

- allantoin,

Bisabolol,

- Antioxidants, for example imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl -, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts ) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, L actoferrin), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. B. γ- linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, the coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid , Trihydroxybutrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, catalase, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives ( e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable as antioxidants,

Ceramides and pseudoceramides,

Triterpenes, especially triterpenic acids such as ursolic acid, rosmaric acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonic acid, Monomeric catechins, especially catechin and epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidins, catechin polymers (catechin tannins) and gallotannins,

- Thickeners, e.g. B. gelatin, vegetable gums and / or polysaccharides such as agar agar, guar gum, guar guar, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, tylose or locust bean gum, hydrophilic silicas and / or natural and synthetic clays and layered silicates , e.g. B. bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , Ca, Mg or Zn soaps of fatty acids, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with restricted homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride, and sodium chloride

- plant glycosides,

- structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

- dimethyl isosorbide,

Alpha, beta and gamma cyclodextrins, in particular for stabilizing retinol,

- Solvents, swelling and penetration substances such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin and diethylene glycol, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates

- perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the agent,

- Substances for adjusting the pH, e.g. B. α- and ß-hydroxy carboxylic acids,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,

- Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention are administered topically and can advantageously be in the form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion or Pickering emulsion, in the form of a hydrogel, an alcoholic gel, a lipogel, in the form of a single or multi-phase solution, a foam, an ointment, a plaster, a suspension, a powder or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive available. The topically applied agents can also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. The carrier can be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the medicaments according to the present invention are in the form of a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood to mean not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called “PIT” emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are available as an oil-in-water emulsion at room temperature. When these systems are warmed up, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or “PIT”), which convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions when heated further. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but these are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very fine-particle emulsions with an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. Details regarding these "PIT emulsions" e.g. B. the publication Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985).

It is also conceivable that the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and the pharmaceuticals according to the present invention in the form of Antiperspirants and / or deodorants are present. Suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, and any mixtures of these salts. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean a solubility of at least 4 g of active substance per 100 g of solution at 20 ° C. For example, alum (KAI (SO ₄ ) ₂ ^.12 H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum chlorohydroxyl lactate, aluminum chlorohydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate can be used according to the invention -Zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes and complexes of basic aluminum chlorides with propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. The liquid active substance preparations preferably contain an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Aluminum chlorohydrates are sold, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine or in activated form as Reach ^® 501 or Reach ^® 103 from Reheis as well as in the form of aqueous solutions as Locron ^® L from Clariant or as Chlorhydrol ^® from Reheis. An aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is available under the name Reach ^® 301. The use of aluminum-zirconium tri- or tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® commercially, according to the invention is particularly advantageous.

The antiperspirant active ingredient is in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations and in the medicaments according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01-40% by weight, preferably 2-30% by weight and in particular 5-25% by weight, based on the amount of active substance in the entire composition.

Deodorant active ingredients include, for example, fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, antioxidants and odor adsorbents. Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances are in particular C 1 -C ₄ -alkanols, C ₂ -C ₄ -alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds.

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations as well as the medicaments according to the present invention can furthermore contain at least one water-soluble polyol, in particular selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher alcohols and polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C -Ci ₂ diols, in particular 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. B. 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. B. 1, 2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, e.g. B. 1,6-hexanediol. Also preferred are glycerol and technical oligoglycerin mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol ring mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight or triglycerin 1, 2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. Other suitable higher alcohols are the C4, C5 and C6 monosaccharides and the corresponding sugar alcohols, e.g. B. mannitol or sorbitol. The water-soluble polyol is present in amounts of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention will be explained in more detail below on the basis of exemplary embodiments in connection with the figures. Show it

1 shows images of an animal experiment using a mono-ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid according to the invention;

Fig. 2 pictures of another animal experiment using the mono-ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid according to the invention. Ways of Carrying Out the Invention

Example 1: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

5% by weight ammonium glycyrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) was dissolved in water and applied twice a day to the neck area of Wistar rats. There is a slight thinning of the hair growth, but no complete epilation.

Example 2: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

10% by weight of ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) was dissolved in water and applied twice a day to the neck area of Wistar rats. There is a thinning of the hair growth and a partial, temporary epilation.

Example 3: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

15% by weight ammonium glycyrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) was dissolved in water and applied twice a day to the neck area of Wistar rats. Complete epilation is shown after 12 days of treatment.

Example 4: Effect of ammonium glycyrrhizinate

15% by weight of ammonium glycyrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) was dissolved in PBS and applied twice a day to the neck area of Wistar rats. Complete epilation is shown after 12 days of treatment.

Example 5: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

15% by weight of ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in water in a mixture of 20% by weight of ethanol and twice daily in the neck area of

Wistar rats applied. A complete epilation is shown after 12

Days of treatment.

Example 6: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

15% by weight ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in a mixture of 30% by weight glycerin in water and twice daily in the neck area of Wistar rats applied. Complete epilation is shown after 12 days of treatment.

Example 7: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

20% ammonium glycyrrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) were dissolved in a mixture of 30% by weight glycerol in water (pH 4) and applied twice daily to the neck area of Wistar rats. An effect is already visible after 2 days of treatment, after 8 days of treatment the treated skin area is epilated.

Example 8: Effect of ammonium glycyrhizinate

20% ammonium glycyrhizinate (Fluka, A-Gly-Flu) was dissolved in water in a mixture of 1% by weight Triton X100, 10% by weight urea and 20% by weight ethanol and twice a day in the neck area of Wistar - rats applied. An effect is already visible after 2 days of treatment, after 8 days of treatment the treated skin area is epilated. The use of the non-ionic detergent Triton X100 shows that the epilation is not hindered by the presence of detergents.

Comparative Examples 9 and 10: Effect of Potassium Glyzyrrhizinate 15% Potassium Glyzyrrhizinat (Cosmetic Quality, K-Gly-Kos) were dissolved in a mixture of 20% by weight ethanol in water and applied twice a day in the neck area of Wistar rats. No epilation effect is visible after 15 days of treatment. The solutions were warmed to 50 ° C: no effect after a further 11 days of treatment. The pH of the solutions was lowered to pH 4 and applied at 50 ° C: no effect after a further 48 days of treatment.

Comparative Example 11: Effect of Glycyrrhetic Acid

8.4% glycyrrhetic acid (Fluka, Gly-Reth-Flu) was dissolved in 100% ethanol and applied twice daily to the neck area of Wistar rats. After 24 days of treatment no epilation success, also no thinning of the fur. Comparative Example 12: Effect of Glycyrrhetic Acid

7.5% glycyrrhetic acid (Fluka, Gly-Reth-Flu) was dissolved in the formulation of US Pat. No. 5,554,608 and applied twice daily to the neck area of Wistar rats. After 24 days of treatment no epilation success, also no thinning of the fur.

The results of the animal experiments are summarized in the table below:

A-Gly-Flu = Ammonium-Glyzyrrhizinat Fa. Fluka

A-Gly-Flu = ammonium glycyrrhizinate from Fluka

K-Gly-Flu = Potassium Glycyrrhizinate from Fluka

K-Gly-Kos = Potassium Glycyrrhizinate Cosmetic Purity

Gly-Reth-Flu = glycyrrhetic acid from Fluka

The experimental results clearly show the superiority of the ammonium salts used according to the invention over the agents known from the prior art. While dipotassium glycyrrhizinate or 18ß-glyzyrrhetinic acid have no hair-removing effect in animal experiments, in comparison the mono-ammonium glyzyrrhizinate shows a clear epilation effect.

Claims

claims 1. Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glyzyrrhetic acid for epilation. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are mono-, di- and / or tri-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mono- and di-ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid are mixed salts with Na ⁺ and / or K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ . 4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the use is carried out together with other medicinal substances, herbal medicinal products and / or other auxiliaries and mixtures thereof. 5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the medicinal substances, herbal medicinal products and other auxiliary substances are selected from the group consisting of thioglycolates, wax, antiandrogens, spironolactone, elfornithine, inhibitors of protein kinase C, inhibitors of adhesion molecules, ingredients of the liquorice extract such as glabrin , Flavonoide, Glyzyrrhizinsäure, Glyzyrrhetinsäure, Potassium salts of Glyzyrrhizinsäure, Potassium salt of Glyzyrrhetinsäure, extracts from the natural substances Aloe, Scutellaria baicalensis, Zanthomylium, Rehmannia, Clove, Coix, Soyababumnepia, pentamina piaumia, pifa, pentacin, pentamorphic acid, Saxif, pentamorphic acid, Saxif, pentamorphine, Saxif , Henna leaves, Lithospermum, Curcuma longa, and Olibanum (Boswellia) and their mixtures. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the use for cosmetic and / or therapeutic depilation takes place. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the use is topical. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the use in the form of solutions, in particular alcoholic solutions, tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form a moist bandage, an occlusion bandage, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular in the form of a deodorant stick. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the use is carried out after epilation by photothermolysis. 10. Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizinic acid and / or glyzyrrhetinic acid according to claims 1 to 3 for the treatment of diseases. 11. Use according to claim 10 for the treatment of hypertrichoses, animal fur nevus and hirsutism. 12. Use of ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glyzyrrhetic acid for the production of a pharmaceutical preparation or a medicament for epilation. 13. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation for epilation, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation contains at least one ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid according to claims 1 to 3 as an active ingredient. 14. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to claim 13, characterized in that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained as active ingredient are contained in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 90% by weight. 15. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to claim 14, characterized in that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained as an active ingredient are contained in an amount of 1% by weight to 20% by weight. 16. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation additionally contains medicinal substances and / or herbal medicinal products according to claims 4 and 5. 17. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 13 to 16, characterized in that it is a pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation for topical application. 18. Pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation according to claim 17, characterized in that the pharmaceutical or cosmetic preparation in the form of solutions, in particular alcoholic solutions, tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol, in the form of a moist dressing, an occlusion dressing, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular in the form of a deodorant stick. 19. Medicament for epilation, characterized in that the medicament contains at least one ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid and / or of glyzyrrhetic acid according to claims 1 to 3. 20. Medicament according to claim 19, characterized in that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained as active ingredient are contained in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 90% by weight. 21. Medicament according to claim 20, characterized in that the ammonium salts of glycyrrhizic acid and / or glycyrrhetic acid contained as active ingredient are contained in an amount of 1% by weight to 20% by weight. 22. Medicament according to one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that the medicament additionally contains medicinal substances and / or herbal medicinal products according to claims 4 and 5. 23. Medicament according to one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that it is a medicament for topical application. 24. Medicament according to claim 23, characterized in that the medicament in the form of solutions, in particular alcoholic solutions, tinctures, lotions, emulsions, ointments, creams, pastes, oils, gels, in the form of powder, spray or aerosol a moist dressing, an occlusion dressing, a plaster or a stick preparation, in particular in the form of a deodorant stick.