DE10340684A1 - Topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for increasing collagen expression in skin cells, useful e.g. for improving stability and strength of skin, containing vitamin B6 as active agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of vitamin B6 (I) is claimed in production of topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for increasing collagen expression in skin cells. An Independent claim is included for new topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions (A) comprising a carrier containing (I) and at least one other active agent (II) selected from: (i) other vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group (or their derivatives) or derivatives of 2-furanone, panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide or biotin; (ii) plant extracts; (iii) matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) inhibitors; (iv) esters of retinol (vitamin A1) with 2-18C carboxylic acids; (v) surfactants acting as emulsifiers or dispersants; (vi) aminoacids, their zinc salts or their acid addition salts; (vii) film-forming, emulsion stabilizing, thickening and/or adhesive polymers; (viii) lipids, surfactants, antiperspirants or polyols; (ix) organic, mineral or modified mineral light-protective filters; (x) protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives; (xi) mono-, oligo- or polysaccharides or their derivatives; and/or (xii) alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, alpha-ketocarboxylic acids or their esters, lactones or salts.

Description

Object of the present invention are new topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, which contain vitamin B6 and new uses of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic compositions.

The human skin is a very complex organ, consisting of a multitude of different Cell types exist. According to the invention are under the commonly used term "skin" alongside the skin itself also the mucous membrane and skin appendages and understand the hair.

The skin consists of two layers, the dermis and epidermis. The dermis provides the support tissue for the overlying Epidermis represents and enables the supply of nutrients to the epidermis. The dermis is there essentially from the so-called extracellular matrix and a few cells, mostly fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are the main ones Producers of the proteins of the extracellular matrix, e.g. collagen or fibronectin.

Every living cell of the skin is in able to respond to signals from their environment, e.g. the action of topically applied Cosmetics to respond. These cell responses are caused by realizes an orderly regulation of gene expression, so that the metabolism of skin cells is not static, but very is dynamic. The reactions of the skin to changes in the environment are allowed should not be considered as reactions of single, isolated cells. Rather, each cell is in a complex communication network involved. This network includes e.g. the communication between Cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. On communication there are signaling molecules, for example interleukins, between the cells of the skin and growth factors (e.g. KGF (keratinocyte growth factor), EGF (epidermal growth factor) or FGF (fibroblast growth factor)). The Investigation of drug effects on individual, isolated cell types of the skin (e.g. fibroblasts, keratinocytes) can only give an incomplete impression who actually in Provide organ reactions.

The dermis consists of approximately 80% Collagen fibers, with Type I collagen making up the largest proportion. The collagen fibers cause the firmness and firmness of the skin, the skin structure is largely determined by the arrangement of the collagen fibers. Collagen fibers are subject to constant renewal, however decreases with age. Leading among other things to a reduced dermis thickness, but also for the expression of Wrinkles. The excessive breakdown Collagen fibers are caused by various factors. In the course of so-called extrinsic aging due to environmental stress (Skin stress), which is caused, for example, by skin exposure across from UV light finds the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) induced. These proteases, especially the so-called collagenases, degrade the collagen fibers. The intrinsic or chronological Aging (skin aging) is due to a decreased collagen synthesis featured, especially in postmenopausal women. It is known to women in the first five years of postmenopause Lose 30% of total collagen. This is associated with the decrease the dermis thickness and the feeling dry skin. The skin appears rougher and draw it intensifies fine lines and wrinkles in the skin. It was found here that the aging of the skin in particular with a decrease the production of subunits of type I, III collagens, IV and V goes hand in hand.

The relationship between these Proteins and the mechanical stability of the skin, the skin appendages and the hair is set out below. The skin acts as an interface to Environment exposed to special mechanical loads. For the homeostasis of the It is therefore important for skin to be mechanical in its skin Strengthen protective function and support. The mechanical resilience of the skin is significantly affected by the integrity the dermis determines. The dermis is a cell-poor and extracellular matrix rich tissue. The firmness of the dermis is determined by the proteins The collagen family determines the largest proportion of the matrix proteins put. Collagens are capable of different structures to train, especially fibrous collagen fibrils that counteract tensile stress on the skin and thus the stability of the skin convey. The amount of collagen also affects the thickness of the dermis. The with a higher one Thick dermis associated with collagen content is able to spot To better absorb pressure loads on the skin and the surrounding area Distribute tissue. An increased collagen production in the Skin increased hence the mechanical stability of the skin.

To the collagen content of the young To maintain skin and a smooth and firm appearance of the skin too preserve, it is therefore necessary Identify active substances that increase collagen synthesis, preferably the collagen synthesis of those types of collagen that associated with aging.

Vitamin C was already known that it is capable of collagen synthesis when applied topically to stimulate.

Myers et al. (1985) Toxicology Letters 30, 55-61, describe that proline incorporation decreased in the collagen of the lungs with vitamin B6 deficient nutrition is while ozone exposure promotes proline incorporation into the collagen.

Surprisingly it has now been found that vitamin B6 is added when administered topically is able to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin, where in particular stimulation of such collagen types occurs, the for the aging of the skin can be blamed, namely the Subunits 1 and 2 of collagen type I (COL1A1, COL1A2), which Subunit 1 of type III collagen (COL3A1), the subunit 2 of type IV collagen (COL4A2) and subunit 1 of collagen Type V (COL5A1). Cream formulations with vitamin B6 increased here expression of the subunits COL1A1 and COL1A2 by the factor 8.26 and 6.38, respectively. Expression of collagen subunits COL3A1, COL4A2 and COL5A1 were each 6.44, 2.45 times and increased 6.30.

The new uses of Vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions are based on surprising and for effects not foreseeable by a person skilled in the art that occur on a human homologue Whole skin model with subsequent Studies of gene expression in vitro were determined.

• – weitere Vitamine, Provitamine oder Vitaminvorstufen der Vitamin B-Gruppe oder deren Derivate sowie Derivate von 2-Furanon, Panthenol, Pantolacton, Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin,
• – Pflanzenextrakte,
• – MMP-1-inhibierende Substanzen,
• – Ester von Retinol (Vitamin A₁) mit einer C_2–18-Carbonsäure.
• – oberflächenaktive Substanzen als Emulgator oder Dispergiermittel,
• – Aminosäuren und deren Zinksalze und deren Säureadditionssalze,
• – filmbildende und/oder emulsionsstabilisierende und/oder verdickende und/oder adhäsive Polymere,
• – Fettstoffe, Tenside, Anti-Transpirantien und Polyole,
• – organische, mineralische und modifizierte mineralische Lichtschutzfilter,
• – Proteinhydrolysate und deren Derivaten,
• – Mono-, Oligo- und Polysaccharide sowie deren Derivate,
• – α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und α-Ketocarbonsäuren sowie deren Ester-, Lacton- oder Salzformen.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions which contain vitamin B6 and at least one active ingredient in a suitable carrier, selected from

• Further vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or their derivatives as well as derivatives of 2-furanone, panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide and biotin,
• - plant extracts,
• MMP-1 inhibiting substances,
• - Esters of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid.
• Surface-active substances as emulsifiers or dispersants,
• - amino acids and their zinc salts and their acid addition salts,
• - film-forming and / or emulsion-stabilizing and / or thickening and / or adhesive polymers,
• - fatty substances, surfactants, anti-perspirants and polyols,
• - organic, mineral and modified mineral light protection filters,
• - protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives,
• Mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides and their derivatives,
• - α-Hydroxycarboxylic acids and α-ketocarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt forms.

Another subject of the present The invention is therefore the use of vitamin B6 for the production topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for Increasing collagen expression, especially to increase it expression of the subunit COL1A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02452, the subunit COL1A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08123, the COL3A1 subunit with the Swiss Prot number P02461, the subunit COL4A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08572, and / or the subunit COL5A1 with the Swiss Prot number P20908.

Another subject of the present The invention is therefore further the use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic compositions to increase collagen expression in the skin, especially to increase the expression of the subunit COL1A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02452, the subunit COL1A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08123, the subunit COL3A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02461, the COL4A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08572, and / or the Subunit COL5A1 with the Swiss Prot number P20908 in cells of the Skin.

Another subject of the present The invention is therefore also the use of vitamin B6 for the production topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for Improve mechanical stability and / or increase Tensile strength, smoothness, firmness, elasticity and / or firmness of the skin and / or to increase the dermis thickness of the skin.

Another subject of the present Invention is therefore also the use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic compositions to improve mechanical stability and / or to increase tensile strength, smoothness, tightness, elasticity and / or Firmness of the skin and / or to increase the dermis thickness of the skin.

The increase in expression of subunit 2 of type IV collagen found according to the invention is also associated with an increase in the intercellular interaction. Because the epidermis is firmly attached to the dermis by a thin matrix layer, the so-called basement membrane. However, this matrix layer mainly consists of laminins and collagen type IV. The keratinocytes of the basal epidermis (stratum basale) attach to these proteins of the basal membrane via specific cell surface receptors. The absence of these receptors or the proteins of the basement membrane is in the Re gel associated with the loss of adhesion of the keratinocytes to the underlying matrix, which is expressed in various blistering skin diseases. In contrast, an increased production of the basement membrane components and in particular of type IV collagen, as was found according to the invention, increases the number of possible attachment points for basal keratinocytes and thus increases the structural integrity of the skin.

Another subject of the present The invention is therefore the use of vitamin B6 for the production topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for Improve the mechanical stability of the skin as well as its use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic compositions for improvement mechanical stability the skin, improving mechanical stability to a Increase in intercellular Interactions in the skin is due to especially on increasing the adhesion of basal keratinocytes the epidermis to the collagen type IV of the basement membrane in the skin.

According to the invention there is no vitamin B6 to understand uniform substance, but that under the trivial names Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine phosphate and pyridoxamine phosphate known derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol. Each of these substances or their salts as well as precursors and derivatives as well as mixtures of these compounds can be used according to the invention as a vitamin B6 can be used. In a preferred embodiment, a salt of Pyridoxins, especially pyridoxine hydrochloride, used.

Amounts of vitamin suitable according to the invention B6 are 0.1-10 % By weight, preferably 0.5-8 % By weight and particularly preferably 0.5-2% by weight, in each case based on the entire composition.

In the cosmetic according to the invention or pharmaceutical composition can be any Act dosage form, for example a soap, a lotion, a spray, a cream, a gel, an emulsion, a suspension, a cleaning liquid or cleansing milk, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, an ointment, a hair treatment or a shampoo and it can also be described in any of the or other dosage forms may be included, for example in a patch, especially in a gel reservoir or matrix patch.

The skin comes as the application site every area of the body in question, especially the facial skin, scalp or skin on hands and feet.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical according to the invention The composition can also contain further constituents. In a preferred embodiment contains at least one of the substances listed below. she can also contain any combination of the components listed below.

In a preferred embodiment contains the composition according to the invention selected at least one substance from other vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors B group or its derivatives and the derivatives of 2-furanone.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4''-Amino-2''-methyl-5''-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D- ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. In freier Form kommt Riboflavin z. B. in Molke vor, andere Riboflavin-Derivate lassen sich aus Bakterien und Hefen isolieren. Ein erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls geeignetes Stereoisomeres des Riboflavin ist das aus Fischmehl oder Leber isolierbare Lyxoflavin, das statt des D-Ribityl einen D-Arabityl-Rest trägt. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (I) eingesetzt werden.
  
  Bevorzugt sind die 2-Furanon-Derivate, in denen die Substituenten R¹ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, einen Hydroxylrest, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxy-C₂-C₄ – Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triamino-C₂-C₄ – Kohlenwasserstoffrest darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Derivate sind die auch im Handel erhältlichen Substanzen Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon mit dem Trivialnamen Pantolacton (Merck), 4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolacton (Aldrich) und 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon (Merck), wobei ausdrücklich alle Stereoisomeren eingeschlossen sind. Das erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte 2-Furanon-Derivat ist Pantolacton (Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon), wobei in Formel (I) R¹ für eine Hydroxylgruppe, R² für ein Wasserstoffatom, R³ und R⁴ für eine Methylgruppe und R⁵ und R⁶ für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen. Das Stereoisomer (R)-Pantolacton entsteht beim Abbau von Pantothensäure. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sowie die 2-Furanonderivate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Gesamtmengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.

In addition to vitamin B6, the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4 '' - Amino-2 '' - methyl-5 '' - pyrimidinyl) -methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. In free form, riboflavin comes e.g. B. in whey before, other riboflavin derivatives can be isolated from bacteria and yeast. A stereoisomer of riboflavin which is likewise suitable according to the invention is lyxoflavin which can be isolated from fish meal or liver and which carries a D-arabityl radical instead of D-ribityl. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinamide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone with the general structural formula (I) can be used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.
  
  Preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono- , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - represent hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the common name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3.3 -Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), all stereoisomers being expressly included. The 2-furanone derivative which is extremely preferred according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed when pantothenic acid is broken down. The compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type mentioned and the 2-furanone derivatives are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the agent as a whole. Total amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide and biotin are very special according to the invention prefers.

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical skin treatment agent, containing vitamin B6 and at least one plant extract. The plant extract can, for example, by extracting the whole Plant, but also exclusively by extraction from flowers and / or Scroll and / or seeds and / or other parts of plants. According to the invention all the extracts from the meristem, i.e. the divisible educational tissue of the plants, and the extracts from special plants like green tea, Witch hazel, chamomile, marigold, pansy, peony, aloe vera, Horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, cinnamon tree (cinnamon tree), chrysanthemums, Oak bark, nettle, hops, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almonds, Spruce needles, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, kiwi, guava, lime, mango, Apricot, wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, Birch, beech sprouts, mallow, cuckoo flower, yarrow, quendel, Thyme, lemon balm, hake, marshmallow (Althaea), mallow (Malva sylvestris), Violets, leaves the black currant, coltsfoot, quintuplets, ginseng, ginger root and sweet potato preferred as a plant extract. Can also be used advantageously Algae extracts. The used according to the invention Algae extracts come from green algae, Brown algae, red algae or blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). The one for extraction used algae can both natural Origin as well as gained through biotechnological processes and if desired across from the natural Form changed his. The change The organisms can be genetically engineered, through breeding or through cultivation in with selected nutrients enriched media. Preferred algae extracts come from from seaweed, blue-green algae, from the green algae Codium tomentosum and from the brown algae Fucus vesiculosus. A particularly preferred algae extract comes from blue-green algae of the species Spirulina, which is enriched in a magnesium Medium were cultivated.

The extracts are particularly preferred made of spirulina, green Tea, aloe vera, meristem, witch hazel, apricot, marigold, guava, Sweet potato, Lime, mango, kiwi, cucumber, mallow, marshmallow and violet. The agents according to the invention can also mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts contain.

For example, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as Ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in a mixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. According to the invention, steam distillation is one of the preferred extraction processes. However, the extraction can optionally also take the form of dry extraction.

According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction. Depending on the choice of extracting agent, it may be preferred to stabilize the plant extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hardened vegetable and animal oils. Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C _8-22 fatty acids with 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. B. hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol capryl - / - / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides.

Furthermore, it can be preferred in the agents according to the invention Mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts use.

With regard to the usable according to the invention Plant extracts continue to refer to the extracts that in the 3rd edition of the Guide to the Ingredient Declaration on page 44 cosmetic products, published by the industry association and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical skin treatment agent containing vitamin B6 and at least one MMP-1 inhibiting substance selected from photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2- dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran (available as a commercial product Lipochroman 6 ^TM from Lipotec SA) and their mixtures. Precocenes are chromium derivatives that occur in plants and are known as hormones (The Merck Index, 12th edition, Merck & Co. 1996). The MMP-1 inhibitory effect of these substances is in the German patent application DE 10016016 A1 described. They are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one ester of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid. Preferred retinol esters are retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate; retinyl palmitate is particularly preferred. The retinol esters are used in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total agent.

In a further preferred embodiment, in particular when used as an emulsion or surfactant solution, especially as a cleaning agent, the skin treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as an emulsifier or dispersant. At the phase interface, emulsifiers cause the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. W / 0 emulsions which are stabilized without hydrophilic emulsifiers are in the published patent applications DE 19816665 A1 and DE 19801593 A1 disclosed. An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare C₈-C₂₂-Fettalkohole, an C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuren und an C₈-C₁₅-Alkylphenole,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an C₃-C₆-Polyole, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, z. B. das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten C₈-C₂₂-Fettsäuren,
• – Sterole (Sterine). Als Sterole wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterole) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterole) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterole sind das Cholesterol und das Lanosterol. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterole sind Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, Campesterol und Ergosterol. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterole, die sogenannten Mykosterole, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide, vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden,
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate, bevorzugt Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH) und Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat (Handelsprodukt Lameform^® TGI),
• – Lineare und verzweigte C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäuren und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Adducts of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, with C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and with C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkylphenols,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with C ₃ -C ₆ polyols, in particular with glycerol,
• - Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, degrees of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred,
• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. B. the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,
• - adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.
• - Phospholipids, especially the glucose phospholipids, which, for. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. B. egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are obtained,
• - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI),
• - Linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total mean.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 and below is according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New, in the Römpp Lexicon Chemie (Eds .: J. Falbe, M. Regitz) York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions of the HLB value. Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group with 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group with the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. A particularly preferred emulsifier of the formula R ¹ -OR ² is a behen or erucyl derivative in which R ^{1 represents} a linear, terminally substituted alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 22 carbon atoms.

Further preferably suitable emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the addition products of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or else with behenic acid or erucic acid. The monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as, for. B. pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methylglucose. Examples of such products are e.g. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

In another, likewise particularly preferred embodiment, at least one ionic emulsifier, selected from anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and cationic emulsifiers, is contained. Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates. Zwitterionic emulsifiers in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^- -, or -SO ₃ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines each with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.

In addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, ampholytic emulsifiers contain at least one free amino group and at least one -OOOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic emulsifiers are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylaminopropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.

The ionic emulsifiers are in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total Means included.

• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_xOR³, in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und x für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylamin-N-oxide,
• – Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für eine C₈-C₁₆-Alkylgruppe, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglykoside, bei denen R im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen, im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen, im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht. Als Zuckerbaustein Z können beliebige Mono- oder Oligosaccharide eingesetzt werden. Üblicherweise werden Zucker mit 5 bzw. 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie die entsprechenden Oligosaccharide eingesetzt, beispielsweise Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Mannose, Glucose, Idose, Talose und Sucrose. Bevorzugte Zuckerbausteine sind Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose und Sucrose; Glucose ist besonders bevorzugt. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside enthalten im Schnitt 1,1 bis 5, bevorzugt 1,1 bis 2,0 besonders bevorzugt 1,1 bis 1,8 Zuckereinheiten. Auch die alkoxylierten Homologen der genannten Alkylpolyglykoside können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Diese Homologen können durchschnittlich bis zu 10 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxideinheiten pro Alkylglykosideinheit enthalten.

The compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain foaming nonionic, zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. Examples of nonionic surfactants are

• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _x OR ³ , in which R ¹ CO represents a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 represents} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 represents} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and x represents numbers from 1 to 20,
• - adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkylamine N-oxides,
• - Alkyl polygycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is a C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, this is the verb but made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds. Alkylpolyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ are particularly preferred - C ₁₆ alkyl groups. Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block Z. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, glucose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5, preferably 1.1 to 2.0, particularly preferably 1.1 to 1.8 sugar units. The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) - or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxym -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in preparations according to the invention all for use on the human body suitable anionic surface-active Substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. additionally can in the molecule Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable ones foaming Anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium as well the mono, di and Trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• Acylglutamates of the formula (II),
  
  in which R ¹ CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X represents hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium-N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,
• Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (III),
  
  in which X = H or a -CH ₂ OOOR group, Y = H or -OH is, provided that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ OOOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independent of one another is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkylpolysaccharides with 1 up to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• Esters of the sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),
  
  in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which belongs to the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ² is a residue Z,
• - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -OOOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• - acyl sarcosinates with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• - acyl taurate with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• - acyl isethionates with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,
• - linear Alkane sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear Alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl ester of fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms, particularly preferably with 8-18 C atoms, z = 0 or 1 to 12, particularly preferably 3, and X is a sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, ammonium ion or a monoalkanol-dialkanol or trialkanolammonium ion with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, a particularly preferred example being zinc cocoyl ether sulfate with a Degree of ethoxylation of z = 3,
• - Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• - Sulphated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (V),
  
• - in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is a number from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali - or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another representing a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M, in which R ⁷ CO is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (VI),
  
• - in which R ⁸ CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total 0 or numbers 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulated with sulfuric acid trioxide. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VI) are preferably used, in which R ⁸ CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions at least one organic or mineral or modified mineral light protection filter. With the light protection filters it is liquid or crystalline at room temperature Substances that are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of wavelength radiation, e.g. B. heat to deliver again. A distinction is made between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can can be used both individually and in mixtures. The stake filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomers 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters and any mixtures of the components mentioned. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (Dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid pnopyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid, 2-ethylhexyl isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester (3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalone -2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl triazone) and dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB) as well any mixtures of the Ko mponenten.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. For example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (e.g. Parsol ^® 1789) can be used in various UV-B -Filter. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention therefore contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is accordingly between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inorganic light protection pigments preferred according to the invention are finely dispersed or colloidally dispersed metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilic lized or hydrophobic. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly advantageous that the skin treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one protein hydrolyzate or its derivative. According to the invention, both vegetable and animal protein hydrolyzates can be used. Animal protein hydrolyzates are e.g. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. Soybean, wheat, almond, pea, potato and rice protein hydrolyzates. Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. Diamin ^® (Diamalt), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

Instead of protein hydrolyzates can on the one hand, amino acid mixtures obtained in another way, and on the other single amino acids as well as their physiologically tolerable Salts are used. The amino acids preferred according to the invention include glycine, Serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, pyroglutamic acid, alanine, Valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, Lysine, arginine and histidine as well as the zinc salts and the acid addition salts of the amino acids mentioned.

It is also possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, e.g. B. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are e.g. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used according to the invention, it being possible for the underlying protein hydrolyzate to come from animals, plants, marine life forms or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. Cationic protein hydrolyzates are preferred, the underlying protein portion of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, some are of ^th under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxice Protein Hydrolyzed Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin. The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.

In the agents according to the invention are the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives or the amino acids and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the include all funds. Amounts from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous proved that the skin treatment agents according to the invention at least contain a mono-, oligo- or polysaccharide or their derivatives.

Monosaccharides suitable according to the invention are z. B. glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, Lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the Deoxy sugar fucose and rhamnose and amino sugar such as B. Glucosamine or galactosamine. Glucose, fructose, galactose, Arabinose and fucose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Oligosaccharides suitable according to the invention are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, e.g. B. sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred one Oligosaccharide is sucrose. It is also particularly preferred the use of honey, the predominant Contains glucose and sucrose.

Polysaccharides suitable according to the invention are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units. Preferred polysaccharides are the starches made up of α-D-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins. Chemically and / or thermally modified starches, eg. B. hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyl distarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry Flo ^® . Dextrans and their derivatives, e.g. B. dextran sulfate. Also preferred are nonionic cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. the commercial products Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® , and preferably Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 (Polyquaternium-10) and Polyquaternium-24. Further preferred examples are polysaccharides from fucose units, e.g. B. the commercial product Fucogel ^® . The poly composed of amino sugar units are particularly preferred saccharides, especially chitins and their deacetylated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides. The preferred mucopolysaccharides according to the invention include hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, e.g. B. sodium hyaluronate or dimethylsilanol hyaluronate, and chondroitin and its derivatives, e.g. B. chondroitin sulfate.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment contain the skin treatment agents according to the invention at least one film-forming, emulsion-stabilizing, thickening or adhesive Polymer selected from natural and synthetic polymers that are cationic, anionic, amphoteric can be charged or non-ionic.

Cationic, anionic and nonionic polymers.

Preferred among the cationic polymers are polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, e.g. B. the commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (with Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt).

Preferred anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient used according to the invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. In this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention. Also, as a compound with isohexadecane and sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 Polysorbate-80 sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proven effective as in the present invention particularly.

Other particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the commercial products Carbopol ^® . A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomers 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer with the The aforementioned networking agents can be networked. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and the Carbopol ^® types 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which can be partially saponified, e.g. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, which, for. B. are sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF).

• – pflanzliche Öle, wie Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls,
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe, z. B. 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) oder Polydecen,
• – Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt 12 bis 36, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, z. B. Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE), Di-n- n-Hexyl-n-octylether und n-Octyl-n-decylether.
• – Fettsäuren, besonders lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte C_8–30-Fettsäuren. Bevorzugt sind C_10–22-Fettsäuren. Beispiele sind die Isostearinsäuren und Isopalmitinsäuren wie die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Edenor^® vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethyl hexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachidonsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, die aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist der Einsatz von Stearinsäure.
• – Fettalkohole, besonders gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6–30, bevorzugt 10–22 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 12–22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind z. B. Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, z. B. 2-Ethylhexanol, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll.
• – Esteröle, das heißt, Ester von C_6–30-Fettsäuren mit C_2–30-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Als Alkohol- und Säurekomponenten der Esteröle können die vorstehend genannten Substanzen verwendet werden. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat, Isononansäure-C_16–18-alkylester, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat, n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat, Isopropylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Laurinsäurehexylester, Di-n-butyladipat, Myristylmyristat, Cetearyl Isononanoate und Ölsäuredecylester.
• – Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylester, wobei die Vollester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure oder Citronensäure bevorzugt sind, aber auch Ester der β-Hydroxypropionsäure, der Tartronsäure, der D-Gluconsäure, Zuckersäure, Schleimsäure oder Glucuronsäure geeignet sind und besonders bevorzugt die Ester von C₁₂-C₁₅-Fettalkoholen, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol^® der EniChem, Augusta Industriale, sind,
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykoldioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykoldi(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, z. B. Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Mono-, Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, z. B. Monomuls^® 90-018, Monomuls^® 90-L12 oder Cutina^® MD,
• – Wachse, insbesondere Insektenwachse wie Bienenwachs und Hummelwachs, Pflanzenwachse wie Candelillawachs und Carnaubawachs, Fruchtwachse, Ozokerit, Mikrowachs, Ceresin, Paraffin, Triglyceride gesättigter und gegebenenfalls hydroxylierter C_16–30-Fettsäuren, wie z. B. gehärtete Triglyceridfette (hydriertes Palmöl, hydriertes Kokosöl, hydriertes Rizinusöl), Glyceryltribehenat oder Glyceryltri-12-hydroxystearat, synthetische Vollester aus Fettsäuren und Glykolen (z. B. Syncrowachs^®) oder Polyolen mit 2–6 C-Atomen, Ester von gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C_2–4-Carbonsäuren mit Lanolinalkoholen und C_12–18-Fettalkoholen, Cholesterol- oder Lanosterolester von C_10–30-Fettsäuren, ethoxylierte C_12–20-Fettsäureglykolester, Fettsäuremonoalkanolamide mit einem C_12–22-Acylrest und einem C_2–4-Alkanolrest, synthetische Fettsäure-Fettalkoholestern, z. B. Stearylstearat oder Cetylpalmitat sowie Esterwachse aus natürlichen Fettsäuren und synthetischen C_20–40-Fettalkoholen (INCI-Bezeichnung C20–40 Alkyl Stearate),
• – Siliconverbindungen, ausgewählt aus Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan und Siliconpolymeren, die gewünschtenfalls quervernetzt sein können, z. B. Polydialkylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane, bevorzugt die Substanzen mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone Copolyol, sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the agents according to the invention can be further optimized by means of fatty substances. Suitable fat substances are for example:

• Vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil,
• - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) or polydecene,
• - Di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), di-n-n-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.
• - Fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids. C _10-22 fatty acids are preferred. Examples are the isostearic acids and isopalmitic acids such as the fatty acids sold under the trade name Edenor ^® . Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arenachidonic acid, gadacheneic acid, gadoleic acid, gaachostearic acid, gadic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaoleic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid, gaic acidic acid Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. The fatty acid is usually particularly preferred cuts available from coconut oil or palm oil; the use of stearic acid is particularly preferred.
• - Fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with 6-30, preferably 10-22 and very particularly preferably 12-22 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, z. B. decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capryl alcohol, z. B. 2-ethylhexanol, this list is intended to have exemplary and non-limiting character.
• - Ester oils, that is, esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. The substances mentioned above can be used as alcohol and acid components of the ester oils. According to the invention, particular preference is given to isopropyl myristate, C _16-18 alkyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleopropyl olucate, isolyl enolate, lauryl palate, butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
• - Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, the full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid being preferred, but also esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid are suitable and particularly preferably the esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols, e.g. B. are the commercial products Cosmacol ^® from EniChem, Augusta Industriale,
• - Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - Mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, e.g. B. Monomuls ^® 90-018, Monomuls ^® 90-L12 or Cutina ^® MD,
• - Waxes, in particular insect waxes such as beeswax and bumblebee wax, plant waxes such as candelilla wax and carnauba wax, fruit waxes, ozokerite, micro waxes, ceresin, paraffin, triglycerides saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, such as, for. B. hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols (e.g. Syncrowachs ^® ) or polyols with 2-6 C atoms, esters of optionally hydroxylated C _2-4 carboxylic acids with lanolin alcohols and C _12-18 fatty alcohols, cholesterol or lanosterol esters of C _10-30 fatty acids, ethoxylated C _12-20 fatty acid glycol esters, fatty acid monoalkanolamides with a C _12-22 acyl residue and a C _{2 -4} -alkanol residue, synthetic fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, e.g. B. stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate and ester waxes from natural fatty acids and synthetic C _20-40 fatty alcohols (INCI name C20-40 alkyl stearates),
• - Silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which can, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably the substances with the INCI name Dimethicone Copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxy groups.

The amount of fatty substances used is 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20 % By weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, in each case based on the entire mean.

In a further preferred embodiment contains the skin treatment agent at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are selected from lactic acid, Tartaric acid, Citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and Galacturonic. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, Hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, each based on the total composition.

• – Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, C, E und F, insbesondere 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A₂), β-Carotin (Provitamin des Vitamin A₁), Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C), sowie die Palmitinsäureester, Glucoside oder Phosphate der Ascorbinsäure, Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol sowie seine Ester, z. B. das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat; weiterhin Vitamin F, worunter essentielle Fettsäuren, besonders Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden werden;
• – Allantoin,
• – Bisabolol,
• – Antioxidantien, zum Beispiel Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, das Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Katalase, Superoxid-Dismutase, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO₄), Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selen-Methionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, trans-Stilbenoxid) und die als Antioxidans geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser Wirkstoffe,
• – Ceramide und Pseudoceramide,
• – Triterpene, insbesondere Triterpensäuren wie Ursolsäure, Rosmarinsäure, Betulinsäure, Boswelliasäure und Bryonolsäure,
• – Monomere Catechine, besonders Catechin und Epicatechin, Leukoanthocyanidine, Catechinpolymere (Catechin-Gerbstoffe) sowie Gallotannine,
• – Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Gelatine, Pflanzengumme wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi oder Johannisbrotkernmehl, natürliche und synthetische Tone und Schichtsilikate, z. B. Bentonit, Hectorit, Montmorillonit oder Laponite^®, vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, und außerdem Ca-, Mg- oder Zn-Seifen von Fettsäuren,
• – Pflanzenglycoside,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Dimethylisosorbid,
• – Alpha-, beta- sowie gamma-Cyclodextrine, insbesondere zur Stabilisierung von Retinol,
• – Lösungsmittel, Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate
• – Parfümöle, Pigmente sowie Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, z. B. α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft.

The agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example:

• Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C, E and F, in particular 3,4-didehy droretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), β-carotene (provitamin of vitamin A ₁ ), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and the palmitic acid esters, glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol and its esters, e.g. B. the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate; also vitamin F, which is understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid;
• - allantoin,
• Bisabolol,
• - Antioxidants, for example imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl -, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts ) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, Lac toferrin), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. B. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, the coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid , Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, catalase, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable as antioxidants (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances,
• Ceramides and pseudoceramides,
• Triterpenes, especially triterpenic acids such as ursolic acid, rosmaric acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonic acid,
• Monomeric catechins, especially catechin and epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidins, catechin polymers (catechin tannins) and gallotannins,
• - Thickeners, e.g. B. gelatin, vegetable gums such as agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum or locust bean gum, natural and synthetic clays and layered silicates, e.g. B. bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol, and also Ca, Mg or Zn soaps of fatty acids,
• - plant glycosides,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - dimethyl isosorbide,
• Alpha, beta and gamma cyclodextrins, in particular for stabilizing retinol,
• - Solvents, swelling and penetration substances such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin and diethylene glycol, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates
• - perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the agent,
• - Substances for adjusting the pH, e.g. B. α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
• - Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

In a preferred embodiment are the skin treatment agents according to the invention in the form of a liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsion, Water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, Microemulsion, PIT emulsion or Pickering emulsion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a single or multi-phase solution, a foam, one Powder or a mixture with at least one as medicinal Suitable polymer before adhesive. The agents can also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier can vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils his.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are in the form of a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood to mean not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called “PIT” emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present as an oil-in-water emulsion at room temperature. When these systems are warmed up, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which form when further heated convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but these are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very fine-particle emulsions with an average particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular from approximately 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm. Details regarding these "PIT emulsions" e.g. B. the publication Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985).

In the embodiment according to the invention as antiperspirant, antiperspirant active ingredients can be contained. Suitable antiperspirant active substances according to the invention are water-soluble astringent or protein-coagulating metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium, and any mixtures of these salts. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean a solubility of at least 4 g of active substance per 100 g of solution at 20 ° C. Alum (KAI (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum chlorohydroxyl lactate, aluminum chlorohydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate can be used according to the invention. Zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine complexes and complexes of basic aluminum chlorides with propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. The liquid active substance preparations preferably contain an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Aluminum chlorohydrates are sold, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine or in activated form as Reach ^® 501 or Reach ^® 103 from Reheis and in the form of aqueous solutions as Locron ^® L from Clariant or as Chlorhydrol ^® from Reheis. An aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is available under the name Reach ^® 301. The use of aluminum-zirconium tri- or tetrachlorohydrex glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® commercially, according to the invention is particularly advantageous.

The antiperspirant active ingredient is in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01-40 % By weight, preferably 2-30 % By weight and in particular 5-25 % By weight, based on the total amount of active substance Composition.

In the embodiment according to the invention can use as a deodorant Deodorant actives be included. According to the invention as deodorant active ingredients fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting are suitable Fabrics, enzyme inhibitors, antioxidants and odor adsorbents.

Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or antimicrobial substances are in particular C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, C ₂ -C ₄ alkanediols, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-soluble polyol, selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher alcohols and polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols, in particular 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. B. 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. B. 1,2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, e.g. B. 1,6-hexanediol. Glycerol and technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight or triglycerol, furthermore 1,2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) with a average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. Other suitable higher alcohols are the C ₄ -, C ₅ - and C ₆ -monosaccharides and the corresponding sugar alcohols, e.g. B. mannitol or sorbitol.

The compositions according to the invention contain the water-soluble Polyol in amounts of 1-50 % By weight, preferably 1-15 % By weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the entire composition.

The following examples are intended to clarify the present invention without restricting it.

embodiments

1. Studies on multi-layer skin models

The effects of vitamin B6 have been examined on a multi-layer in vitro skin model. The skin model is a human skin equivalent, that of a dermis with fibroblasts and an epidermis of keratinocytes consists. Compared to usual This whole skin model corresponds to the monolayer cultures used much better the in vivo situation because of keratinocytes and fibroblasts are in close contact with each other and, as in vivo, signal substances can exchange.

To carry out the tests, cream formulations based on the following were listed th experimental formulation with 0.5 wt .-% and with 2 wt .-% vitamin B6, the difference to 100 wt .-% was compensated for with water. The effects of the creams containing vitamin B6 on whole skin models were then evaluated in comparison to a placebo cream (same cream formulation without vitamin B6). For this purpose, the skin models were treated topically with 5 μl of the different cream formulations, then incubated for 6 hours or 48 hours, and the gene expression of the skin models treated with cream was determined in comparison with the gene expression of untreated skin models.

Cream formulation of the test formulations (in% by weight) Montanov ^® 68 6.00 Myritol ^® 318 7.00 Stenol ^® 16/18 1.25 Cutina ^© MDV 2.50 Novata ^® AB 3.00 Cetiol ^® SB 45 1.50 Eusolex ^© 4360 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 Baysilon ^© M350 0.50 PHB propyl 0.20 Generol ^® R 0.50 TiO ₂ 0.30 Tego Carbomer 2% 10.00 Talc DAB 0.50 glycerin 4.50 Sorbitol 70% 2.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 NaOH 10% pH 4.8-5.2 Water, dist ad 100

2. RNA preparation from the whole skin models:

The RNA preparations were 6 hours and 48 hours after the cream application.

Before isolating the RNA (ribonucleic acid) the skin models under ribonuclease-free conditions from the filter paper removed, in a vessel with liquid nitrogen frozen and then until working up in liquid Nitrogen stored.

The models were used for RNA preparation according to one modified protocol from Qiagen (RNeasy Protocol: Isolation of total RNA from Heart, Muscle and Skin Tissue; TS RY7; 05/99) worked up. The RNA was measured photometrically.

3. Gene expression analysis

The gene expression analyzes were using cDNA arrays (arrays with complementary DNA). For the present Study cDNA arrays were used that have different cDNAs of the human species and all are active in human skin. As "House keeping" genes and E. coli DNA fragments were additionally applied to the positive control. Herring sperm DNA and buffer were applied as negative controls.

The PCR amplificates of the cloned cDNA fragments were adjusted to a uniform concentration and with a dispenser to the surface derivatized slide dripped. For the determination of the gene expression profiles was in each case an RNA treated skin model with the fluorescent dye Cy5 and the RNA of the correspondingly untreated skin model (control) with the Fluorescent dye Cy3 labeled and shared on a cDNA array hybridized. The labeling was done by reverse transcription incorporating fluorescence-labeled nucleotides (Cy3-dCTP or Cy5-dCTP) reached. The hybridized arrays were lasered Scanning device read. Each for Both fluorescent markings obtained are for the further Analysis digitally one above the other laid ("overlay"). Here means the color green, that the Cy5 fluorescence a higher intensity than Cy3 has red that the Cy3 fluorescence a higher intensity as Cy5 has yellow that both Fluorescence have the same intensity and therefore also the corresponding gene was expressed to the same extent in both samples.

To create the expression profiles, the Cy3 and Cy5 signal and background intensities of the hybridized arrays were first determined. The background values were subtracted from the signal intensities, the mean value of the quadruple spots was calculated and finally the quotient from Cy5 / Cy3-Si gnal calculated. The values were normalized using the median of all signal quotients.

For the further evaluation only such signal pairs (Cy3 and Cy5) used in which at least one of the two signal intensities at least 2 times over the signal intensity the negative controls (herring sperm DNA and buffer). For evaluation of vitamin B6 as an active ingredient it was of interest to find out which genes are regulated in the whole skin model by adding vitamin B6 are. There were effects based on at least two differentials Expression are significant and have been further evaluated. Besides, were expression changes considered, which is clearly dose dependent showed, and those that have the same regulatory tendency within owned by a gene family.

Table 1: Relative gene expression in skin models treated with 0.5 and 2% by weight of vitamin B6-containing cream after 6 hours, based on untreated skin and compared with the gene expression in aged skin (69 years) in relation to young skin (29 years)

Table 1 shows that in aged skin (69 years) in relation to young skin (29 years) Consistent collagen genes are expressed less. Gene expression in with vitamin B6 cream treated skin models gene expression in untreated skin models shows for everyone Gen examined an opposite Trend. Thus changed treatment with vitamin B6 has a gene expression profile from six skin age markers, in the direction of a gene expression profile from younger Skin.

Table 2: Compilation of the genes examined

More recipe examples

Example 1: Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) isopropyl palmitate 5.00 Cutina ^© MDV 2.00 Stenol ^® 1618 1.00 Baysilon ^© M 350 0.50 Biophilic ^® N 4.00 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 Trilon ^® A 0.10 Vitamin B6 3.00 Tego Carbomer, 2% 20.00 water ad 100

Example 2: Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) Emuliance ^® 4.00 Myritol ^® 318 6.00 Cutina ^® MDV 2.00 Stenol ^® 1618 1.00 Baysilon ^® M 350 0.50 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 Vitamin B6 3.00 water ad 100

Example 3: Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) Montanov ^® 202 3.00 isopropyl 3.00 Myritol ^® 331 1.00 Performalene ^® 400 1.00 Cegesoft ^® C 24 3.00 Lanette ^® 22 1.00 Cutina ^® MDV 2.00 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 Controx ^® KS 0.25 Parsol ^® 1789 1.00 Eusolex ^® 6300 2.00 Uvinul ^® T 150 1.25 Baysilon ^® M350 0.50 Tego Carbomer 140 2% 25,00 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 DSH CN 2.00 NaOH 10% pH 4.8-5.2 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 Vitamin B6 3.00 Water demin. ad 100

Example 4: Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) safflower oil 3.0 Myritol ^® PC 3.5 Lanette ^® 22 3.0 Cutina ^® GMS-V 3.0 Stenol ^® 16/18 2.0 isopropyl 6.0 Baysilon ^® M350 1.0 Controx ^® KS 0.05 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 glycerin 5.0 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2 HIBISCIN ^® HP LS 9198 3.0 TiO ₂ 0.5 citric acid 0.1 Vitamin B6 3.0 calcium pantothenate 0.048 Sepigel ^® 305 2.0 water ad 100

Example 5 Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) Lipoid S 75-3 1.50 Baysilon ^® M 350 1.00 Cetiol ^® J 600 DEO 4.00 Cetiol ^® SB 45 3.00 Stenol ^® 1618 protected 0.50 Cutina ^® MD-V 1.00 Floraesters 70 1.50 Controx ^® KS 0.20 almond oil 2.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 2% 20.00 Talcum Pharma G 1.00 glycerin 3.00 dipropylene 6.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 Dry Flo PLUS 1.00 retinyl palmitate 0.10 DSH CN 2.00 Vitamin B6 3.00 NaOH 10% 1.50 water ad 100

Example 6 Cream Formulation (Figures in% by Weight) Baysilon ^® M 350 1.00 Cetiol ^® OE 5.00 Cegesoft C 24 5.00 Stenol ^® 1618 protected 2.00 Cutina ^® MD-V 1.00 Tego Care CG 90 1.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10 glycerin 5.00 sorbitol 3.00 glucose 1.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10 Vitamin B6 5.00 water ad 100

Example 7 Cleansing Milk (Figures in% by Weight) Tego Carbomer 140 2% 20.00 Benecel 0.30 paraffin oil 20.00 Stenol ^® 1618 protected 2.00 Hostaphat KW 340 D. 3.00 Eumulgin B1 1.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 glycerin 5.00 hexanediol 3.00 p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 Vitamin B6 5.00 Glucono-Δ-lactone 2.00 phenoxyethanol 0.40 Trilon M 0.10 water ad 100

Example 8 Leave-on hair treatment (data in% by weight) MONOMULS ^® 60-35 C 1.24 EUMULGIN ^® B 1 2.76 Cetiol S 9.00 Cetiol OE 9.00 Dow Corning DC ^345® 2.00 GLUADIN ^® WQ 2.85 PLANTACARE ^® 2000 UP 2.00 Vitamin B6 5.00 water ad 100

List of ingredients used

Claims (12)

Topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition which contains vitamin B6 and at least one active ingredient in a suitable carrier, selected from: - further vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or their derivatives as well as derivatives of 2-furanone, panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide and Biotin, - plant extracts, - MMP-1 inhibiting substances, - esters of retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) with a C _2-18 carboxylic acid. - surface-active substances as emulsifiers or dispersants, - amino acids and their zinc salts and their acid addition salts, - film-forming and / or emulsion-stabilizing and / or thickening and / or adhesive polymers, - fatty substances, surfactants, anti-perspirants and polyols, - organic, mineral and modified mineral light protection filters, - protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, - mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides and their derivatives, - α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and α-ketocarboxylic acids as well as their ester, lactone or salt forms. Topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 1, characterized in that vitamin B6 in one Amount between 0.1 and 10 wt .-% is included. Topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized ge indicates that this is contained in a soap, lotion, emulsion, spray, cream, shampoo or plaster. Use of vitamin B6 for topical manufacture cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for enhancement collagen expression in skin cells. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that that the increase in collagen expression is one Increasing the expression of the subunit COL1A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02452, the subunit COL1A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08123, the subunit COL3A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02461, the subunit COL4A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08572, and / or the COL5A1 subunit with the Swiss Prot number P20908 acts. Use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic Compositions for increasing collagen expression in cells of the skin. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that that the increase in collagen expression is one Increasing the expression of the subunit COL1A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02452, the subunit COL1A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08123, the subunit COL3A1 with the Swiss Prot number P02461, the subunit COL4A2 with the Swiss Prot number P08572, and / or the COL5A1 subunit with the Swiss Prot number P20908 acts. Use of vitamin B6 for the manufacture of topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for improvement mechanical stability and / or to increase the tensile strength of the skin and / or to increase smoothness, tightness, elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to increase the dermis thickness of the skin. Use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic Compositions to improve mechanical stability and / or to increase the tensile strength of the skin and / or to increase smoothness, tightness, elasticity and / or skin firmness and / or to increase the dermis thickness of the skin. Use of vitamin B6 for the manufacture of topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for improvement mechanical stability of the skin, the mechanical stability being increased by intercellular Adhesion is caused in the skin. Use of vitamin B6 in topical cosmetic Compositions for improving the mechanical stability of the skin, being mechanical stability caused by an increase in intercellular adhesion in the skin becomes. Use according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that that the increase in intercellular adhesion to an increase the adhesion of basal keratinocytes of the epidermis to the collagen Type IV of the basement membrane is due to the skin.