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WO2005065629A2 - Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit - Google Patents

Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005065629A2
WO2005065629A2 PCT/EP2005/052029 EP2005052029W WO2005065629A2 WO 2005065629 A2 WO2005065629 A2 WO 2005065629A2 EP 2005052029 W EP2005052029 W EP 2005052029W WO 2005065629 A2 WO2005065629 A2 WO 2005065629A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
skin
preparation
enzymes
surfactant
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2005/052029
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2005065629A3 (fr
Inventor
Albrecht Doerschner
Andreas Schepky
Stephan Ruppert
Ursula Holtzmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Priority to PCT/EP2005/052029 priority Critical patent/WO2005065629A2/fr
Priority to CH02034/06A priority patent/CH697532B1/de
Priority to EP05726202A priority patent/EP1881816A2/fr
Publication of WO2005065629A2 publication Critical patent/WO2005065629A2/fr
Publication of WO2005065629A3 publication Critical patent/WO2005065629A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/16—Organic compounds
    • C11D3/18—Hydrocarbons
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/16—Organic compounds
    • C11D3/38—Products with no well-defined composition, e.g. natural products
    • C11D3/382—Vegetable products, e.g. soya meal, wood flour, sawdust
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/29—Sulfates of polyoxyalkylene ethers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/38—Cationic compounds
    • C11D1/52—Carboxylic amides, alkylolamides or imides or their condensation products with alkylene oxides
    • C11D1/523—Carboxylic alkylolamides, or dialkylolamides, or hydroxycarboxylic amides (R1-CO-NR2R3), where R1, R2 or R3 contain one hydroxy group per alkyl group
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/66—Non-ionic compounds
    • C11D1/72—Ethers of polyoxyalkylene glycols

Definitions

  • In-house enzymes in the sense of the present document are enzymes which are present on or near the surface of the skin.
  • Such enzymes can be; Hydrolases, such as proteases, esterases, lipases, phosphatases, sulfatases and transglutaminases, but especially proteases such as the stratum comeum tryptic enzyme.
  • Hydrolases such as proteases, esterases, lipases, phosphatases, sulfatases and transglutaminases, but especially proteases such as the stratum comeum tryptic enzyme.
  • the most important stratum comeum enzymes known from the literature are shown in Tables 1 and 2 and below.
  • Ammonia lyases play an important role in filaggrin degradation (Kuroda et al., 1979). Just like transglutaminases (Polakowska et al., 1991), which are essential for the formation of the 'Cornified Envelope'. Phosphatases are the hydrolases with the highest total activity in the stratum corneum. Influence of enzymes on desquamation (see Schepky et al., 2004, Influence of cleansing on stratum comeum tryptic enzyme (S CTE) in human volonteers, Int. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 245 -253)
  • SCCE stratum comeum chymotryptic enzyme
  • SCTE stratum comeum tryptic enzyme
  • Skin washing products contain anionic surfactants, eg sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) or sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES).
  • anionic surfactants eg sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) or sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES).
  • SDS sodium dodecyl sulphate
  • SLES sodium lauryl ether sulphate
  • Such anionic surfactants are strong because of their Binding to globular proteins on and into the skin by electrostatic interaction of their charged group with the oppositely charged amino acid group of the proteins is well known.
  • the hydrophobic alkyl chain of the molecules of the surfactant also act on the non-polar zone of the globular proteins.
  • surfactants induce conformational changes in the protein molecules that normally lead to the loss of biological, ie enzymatic, activity.
  • Damage to the skin's own enzymes in the sense of the present document means any form of inactivation of these enzymes by denaturation, inhibition or chemical degradation. If enzymes come into contact with surfactants, denaturation very often occurs. Prottey et al., 1984 quantified the effect of surfactants on the acidic phosphatase of the stratum corneum (obtained by tape stripping) by measuring the phosphatase activity. A reduction in the enzyme activity by denaturing the enzyme was found. Based on further data, the surfactant sensitivity of most surface-active skin enzymes can be assumed.
  • enzyme protection in the sense of the present document means reduced damage / impairment of the skin enzymes described.
  • the known products contain, for example, mixtures of lauryl ether sulfate and alk ylamidopropyl betaine. By using such products there is a partial denaturation of the skin's own enzymes and thus damage to the skin, since these enzymes play an important role physiologically.
  • the enzyme protection can be quantified as follows: First, an ex vivo determination of the effect of surfactants on trypsin activity in the human epidermis is carried out. Subjects wash themselves under supervision several times in 3 days with different products or water in different areas. The upper stratum com eum is extracted 24 hours later. The stratum comeum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) activity is measured in the extract. In parallel, the protein concentration of the extracts is determined in order to maintain the specific trypsin activity (correction of different extraction of the areas).
  • SCTE stratum comeum tryptic enzyme
  • EP 0 691 127 discloses mild shower products with anionic surfactants and MIPA laureth sulfate and oils.
  • EP 0691127 B1 disclose the use of anhydrous oils in surfactant cleaning preparations to reduce the binding of certain surfactants to the skin surface.
  • the use of oils reduces the damage to the skin enzymes caused by anionic surfactants and achieves effective enzyme protection. The cause is a reduced adsorption of the surfactants on the skin. This enables enzymes to better fulfill their tasks in the skin.
  • the surfactant is a anionic surfactant, preferably a sulfate surfactant, particularly preferably MIPA-laureth sulfate.
  • a buffer system consisting of citric acid and citrate ions is additionally contained and the pH value of the preparation is adjusted to the value 4 to 7.
  • the concentration of anionic surfactants is 5 to 15% by weight.
  • Oils are characterized in that they reduce the adsorption of the respective anionic surfactant. This enables the enzymes to better fulfill their essential functions in the skin. This effect can be increased by setting the product to a skin-neutral value with citric acid buffer.
  • Preparations according to the invention can furthermore contain surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred surfactants are nonionic surfactants. The following are considered as nonionic surfactants:
  • Alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • Esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sor bitane or other alcohols, ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated esters, ethoxylated glycerol esters
  • Alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol can advantageously be present. Furthermore, all straight-chain and branched fatty alcohols with 8 -22 C atoms
  • Conditioning aids may also be present in the cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preservatives approved in food technology which are listed below with their E number, can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • test areas were treated three times a day three times a day with 1 mL washing product or a tap water control for 45 s. After the treatment, the test area was rinsed with tap water for 30 s and dried with a disposable paper towel. The areas were treated three times on the 1st and 2nd day (morning, noon and afternoon), and on the 3rd day they were treated twice (morning and noon). Up to three washing products were tested against each other and against water.
  • the protein content was determined using the ninhydrin method after alkaline hydrolysis.
  • the corneocyte solutions were evaporated to dryness and the proteins were hydrolyzed for 5 h at 150 ° C. with 2 mL sodium hydroxide solution (6M).
  • the solution was neutralized with 2 mL hydrochloric acid (6M) and 1 mL sodium propionic acid buffer (3.35 M, pH 5.5) was added. Then 50 ⁇ L of the lysate were mixed with 450 ⁇ L bidest.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant une substance tensioactive à équilibre hydrophile-lipophile > 20, dans des concentrations comprises entre 20 et 55 % en poids, des huiles sélectionnées dans le groupe des huiles naturelles et synthétiques, dans des concentrations d'au moins 40 % en poids et d'au plus 90 % en poids, la teneur en eau étant de 0 à 1 % en poids. L'indice de protection enzymatique relatif est d'au moins 105 et la teneur en émulsifiant est comprise entre 0 et 0,001 % en poids.
PCT/EP2005/052029 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit Ceased WO2005065629A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2005/052029 WO2005065629A2 (fr) 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit
CH02034/06A CH697532B1 (de) 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Wasserfreie und ölhaltige Tensidzubereitung mit verminderter Enzymschädigung.
EP05726202A EP1881816A2 (fr) 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2005/052029 WO2005065629A2 (fr) 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2005065629A2 true WO2005065629A2 (fr) 2005-07-21
WO2005065629A3 WO2005065629A3 (fr) 2006-04-13

Family

ID=34746244

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2005/052029 Ceased WO2005065629A2 (fr) 2005-05-03 2005-05-03 Preparation tensioactive a base d'huile et exempte d'eau a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1881816A2 (fr)
CH (1) CH697532B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2005065629A2 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102014222014A1 (de) 2014-10-29 2016-05-04 Beiersdorf Ag Peelendes Reinigungsprodukt auf Ölbasis
EP3130329A1 (fr) 2015-08-12 2017-02-15 Beiersdorf AG Produit de nettoyage base d'huile
EP3130330A1 (fr) 2015-08-12 2017-02-15 Beiersdorf AG Produit de nettoyage basée d'huile avec particules
DE102017217306A1 (de) 2017-09-28 2019-03-28 Beiersdorf Ag Duschprodukte mit höheren Ölgehalten
DE102018211070A1 (de) 2018-07-05 2020-01-09 Beiersdorf Ag Reinigungszubereitung enthaltend Öle

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
LU83711A1 (fr) * 1981-10-23 1983-06-07 Oreal Compositions huileuses comprenant un principe actif dermatologique,destinees au traitement du cuir chevelu ou de la peau
US5302323A (en) * 1992-05-29 1994-04-12 Abbott Laboratories Selenium sulfide shampoo with conditioning properties
DE4424210C2 (de) * 1994-07-09 1997-12-04 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Zusammensetzungen mit einem Gehalt an Tensiden sowie einem Gehalt an Ölkomponenten, die im übrigen wasserfrei sind, als kosmetische oder dermatologische Duschöle
DE102004009812A1 (de) * 2004-02-28 2005-09-15 Degussa Ag Duschölgele

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102014222014A1 (de) 2014-10-29 2016-05-04 Beiersdorf Ag Peelendes Reinigungsprodukt auf Ölbasis
WO2016066299A1 (fr) 2014-10-29 2016-05-06 Beiersdorf Ag Produit de nettoyage exfoliant à base d'huile
US11147760B2 (en) 2014-10-29 2021-10-19 Beiersdorf Ag Oil-based exfoliating cleansing product
EP3130329A1 (fr) 2015-08-12 2017-02-15 Beiersdorf AG Produit de nettoyage base d'huile
EP3130330A1 (fr) 2015-08-12 2017-02-15 Beiersdorf AG Produit de nettoyage basée d'huile avec particules
DE102015215359A1 (de) 2015-08-12 2017-02-16 Beiersdorf Ag Halbfestes Reinigungsprodukt auf Ölbasis enthaltend Peelingpartikel
DE102015215358A1 (de) 2015-08-12 2017-02-16 Beiersdorf Ag Halbfestes Reinigungsprodukt auf Ölbasis
DE102017217306A1 (de) 2017-09-28 2019-03-28 Beiersdorf Ag Duschprodukte mit höheren Ölgehalten
WO2019063220A1 (fr) 2017-09-28 2019-04-04 Beiersdorf Ag Produits pour la douche à teneurs élevées en huiles
DE102018211070A1 (de) 2018-07-05 2020-01-09 Beiersdorf Ag Reinigungszubereitung enthaltend Öle

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2005065629A3 (fr) 2006-04-13
CH697532B1 (de) 2008-11-28
EP1881816A2 (fr) 2008-01-30

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