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WO2004082650A1 - Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004082650A1
WO2004082650A1 PCT/EP2004/002575 EP2004002575W WO2004082650A1 WO 2004082650 A1 WO2004082650 A1 WO 2004082650A1 EP 2004002575 W EP2004002575 W EP 2004002575W WO 2004082650 A1 WO2004082650 A1 WO 2004082650A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
preferred
alkyl
acids
alcohol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
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PCT/EP2004/002575
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Detlef Hollenberg
Michael Dreja
Ullrich Bernecker
Britta Bossmann
Manuela Ehlert
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Priority to EP04719956A priority Critical patent/EP1603522A1/fr
Publication of WO2004082650A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004082650A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to molded articles which contain, in addition to a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one polymer, at least one dissolution accelerator, also called disintegrants, and at least one cosmetic active ingredient, and a method for treating keratinous fibers with these tablets.
  • These setting agents which are typically polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair conditioning or conditioning agents. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to apply them in the form of special agents such as hair fixatives or hair sprays.
  • aqueous-based agents have replaced volatile organic compound-based agents.
  • the problem was the lower volatility of water compared to the alcohols, which is reflected in longer drying times on the hair.
  • this conversion is also often associated with the disadvantage that when applying the desired amount of polymer to the hair water inevitably gets in such amounts on the hair that the drying times are unacceptably long.
  • These problems also result in large variations in the dosage of the agent by the consumer.
  • Another consumer demand for an ecological alternative to hair care products with a firming effect in the form of foams or sprays is also met with agents based on predominantly water as a solvent in insufficient extent.
  • hair waxes contain as a shaping component usually vegetable, animal or mineral waxes and are offered as solid formulations, usually in crucibles. For use, these products are first rubbed by hand and then spread on the hair. These hair waxes based on natural raw materials, a good hold of the hair causes at the same time strong gloss. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market can not completely satisfy the wishes of the users in terms of ease of application and easier distribution on the hair. So here is the accurate, simple and consistently reproducible dosing a problem. It was therefore still the task of developing easily manageable, precisely metered amounts of strengthening Haa ⁇ flegemitteln.
  • the disadvantage of too long drying times due to excessive amounts of water in the formulation does not occur if a small and constant amount of water or another physiologically compatible solvent is used.
  • Small and always consistent amounts of water or other physiologically acceptable solvent can be used if the hair treatment agent itself is present as a solid molded body.
  • the hair treatment agent as a solid molded body containing a) at least one polymer, b) at least one dissolution accelerator and c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the problem could be solved in an excellent manner.
  • the polymer (G) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning properties. It may also be advantageous in a preferred embodiment to formulate at least one setting and at least one film-forming, setting polymer.
  • polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • Cationic polymers (G1) are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives of which are built-up polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
  • copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (GI-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers preferably, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or aUylethem of sugars Sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene pylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: a mixture of diesters of Propylengly- KOL with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Gly- col Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene Polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers containing monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) as non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C ⁇ -4 -alkyl.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosme- dia ® guar and Jaguar ®, - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimethylsilylamo- dimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modi fied silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone is called), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)
  • Q2-7224
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliurnmethochlorid copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers.
  • Gaffix ® VC 713 manufactured by ISP:
  • the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, when agreed pH values as quaternary ammonium group and thus present cationic.
  • temporary cationic polymers usually contain an amino group which, when agreed pH values as quaternary ammonium group and thus present cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the JJSfCI designations in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook "(seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) above and commercially available products mentioned: Cocodimomum Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydroly
  • the anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention are anionic polymers which contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid for example, under the name Rheothik ® ! 1-80 is commercially available.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mole percent acrylamide and 30 to 45 mole percent 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as Tetraallyl- oxyethan, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Se ⁇ igel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • the use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a with 1,9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • anionic polymers are u. a .:
  • Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers such as those sold under the names Resyn ® (National Starch), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF) are commercially available.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is the VBM-35 (BASF) under the name Luviflex ® available vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
  • Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide Te ⁇ olymere for example, sold under the name Ultrahold ® strong (BASF).
  • amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the activity of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO contain " - or -SO " groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, ethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369.
  • Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ® (AMERCHOL).
  • R and R are independently of one another hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and
  • (-) A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA. 73, each vinylpyrrolidone A ⁇ inyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
  • Culminal® ® and Benecel ® AQUALON
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the polymers (G) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the molded article according to the invention also contains at least one dissolution accelerator.
  • dissolution accelerator includes gas-evolving components, preformed and trapped gases, disintegrants, and mixtures thereof.
  • dissolution accelerator, mold dissipator, disintegrants or disintegrants are meant substances which are added to tablets to accelerate their disintegration upon contact with water or other solvents. Overviews can be found, for example, in J. Pharm. Sci. 61 (1972), Römpp Chemilexikon, 9th edition, Volume 6, page 4440 and Voigt "textbook of pharmaceutical technology” (6th edition, 1987, pp. 182-184).
  • gas-evolving components are used as the dissolution accelerator. Upon contact with water, these components react with each other to form gases in-situ, which create a pressure in the tablet which disintegrates the tablet into smaller particles.
  • suitable acids Preference is given to mono-, di- or trihydric acids having a pK a value of 1.0 to 6.9.
  • Preferred acids are citric, malic, maleic, malonic, itaconic, tartaric, oxalic, glutaric, glutamic, lactic, fumaric, glycolic and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is citric acid.
  • citric acid in particulate form, the particles having a diameter of below 100 ⁇ m, in particular smaller than 700 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably smaller than 400 ⁇ m.
  • suitable acids are the homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, maleic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid having a molecular weight of 2,000 to 200,000. Particularly preferred are homopolymers of acrylic acid and copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic acid.
  • preferred bases are alkali metal silicates, carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof. Metasilicates, bicarbonates and carbonates are particularly preferred, bicarbonates are most preferred.
  • particulate bicarbonates having a particle diameter of less than 100 ⁇ m, in particular less than 700 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably less than 400 ⁇ m.
  • Sodium or potassium salts of the above bases are particularly preferred.
  • These gas-evolving components are preferably present in the inventive dyeing composition in an amount of at least 10% by weight, in particular of at least 20% by weight.
  • the gas is preformed or trapped so that upon onset of dissolution of the molded article, gas evolution begins and further dissolution is accelerated.
  • suitable gases are air, carbon dioxide, N 2 O, oxygen and / or other non-toxic, non-combustible gases.
  • disintegration aids so-called molded body disintegrating agents, are incorporated into the molded bodies as dissolution accelerators in order to shorten the disintegration times.
  • Swelling disintegration aids are, for example, synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or natural polymers or modified natural substances such as cellulose and starch and their derivatives, alginates or casein derivatives.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • Preferred disintegrating agents used in the present invention disintegrating agents based on cellulose, so that preferred molded body such disintegrating agent based on cellulose in amounts of 0.5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 30 wt .-%, based on the entire molded body contain.
  • Pure cellulose has the formal gross composition (C ⁇ HioOs) ,, and is formally a ⁇ -l, 4-polyacetal of cellobiose, which in turn is composed of two molecules of glucose.
  • Suitable celluloses consist of about 500 to 5000 glucose units and therefore have average molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000.
  • Cellulose-based disintegrating agents which can be used in the context of the present invention are also cellulose derivatives obtainable by polymer-analogous reactions of cellulose.
  • Such chemically modified celluloses include, for example, products of esterifications or etherifications in which hydroxy hydrogen atoms have been substituted.
  • Celluloses in which the hydroxy groups have been replaced by functional groups which are not bound by an oxygen atom can also be used as cellulose derivatives.
  • the group of cellulose derivatives includes, for example, alkali metal celluloses, carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and aminocelluloses.
  • the cellulose derivatives mentioned are preferably not used as the sole cellulosic disintegrating agent but are used in admixture with cellulose.
  • the content of these mixtures of cellulose derivatives is preferably below 50% by weight, particularly preferably below 20% by weight, based on the cellulose-based disintegrating agent. It is particularly preferred to use cellulose-based disintegrating agent which is free of
  • the cellulose used as a disintegration aid can not be used in finely divided form, but converted into a coarser form, for example granulated or compacted, before admixing with the premixes to be used.
  • the particle sizes of such disintegrating agents are usually above 200 .mu.m, preferably at least 90 wt .-% between 300 and 1600 .mu.m and in particular at least 90 wt .-% between 400 and 1200 microns.
  • the disintegration auxiliaries according to the invention are available commercially for example under the name of Arbocel ® from Rettenmaier.
  • a preferred disintegration assistants for example, Arbocel ® TF-30-HG.
  • microcrystalline cellulose is preferably used as a cellulose-based disintegrant or as a component of this component.
  • This microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by partial hydrolysis of celluloses under conditions which attack and completely dissolve only the amorphous regions (about 30% of the total cellulose mass) of the celluloses, but leave the crystalline regions (about 70%) intact.
  • a Subsequent deaggregation of the resulting by the hydrolysis micro-fine celluloses provides the microcrystalline celluloses, the primary particle sizes of about 5 microns and, for example, are compactable into granules with an average particle size of 200 microns.
  • Suitable microcrystalline cellulose is available commercially for example under the trade name Avicel ®.
  • disintegrants which may be present within the meaning of the invention, e.g. Kollidon, alginic acid and their alkali metal salts, amorphous or partially crystalline layered silicates (bentonites), polyacrylates, polyethylene glycols are described, for example, in the publications WO 98/40462 (Rettenmaier), WO 98/55583 and WO 98/55590 (Unilever) and WO 98/40463, DE 19709991 and DE 19710254 (Henkel). The teaching of these documents is expressly incorporated by reference.
  • the disintegration agents obtainable by the process according to the invention can be present homogeneously distributed macroscopically viewed in the molded body, but microscopically they form zones of increased concentration due to production.
  • the accelerated dissolution of the molded body according to the invention can also be achieved by pre-granulation of the further constituents of the molded body.
  • these contain, in addition to the Ausf insectssbevanter a mixture of starch and at least one saccharide.
  • a mixture of starch and at least one saccharide is preferred.
  • Said mixture is preferably present in a weight ratio of starch and the saccharides used from 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 1: 1 to 1:10, most preferably from 1: 4 to 1: 7 in the molded article before.
  • the disaccharides used are preferably selected from lactose, maltose, sucrose, trehalose, turanose, gentiobiose, melibiose and cellobiose. Particular preference is given to using lactose, maltose and sucrose and very particularly preferably lactose in the shaped articles according to the invention.
  • the starch-disaccharide mixture is in the molded article in an amount of 5 to 60 wt.%, Preferably from 20 to 40 wt.% Based on the mass of the entire molded body contained.
  • Another essential component of the molded body according to the invention may be builders.
  • Typical examples of builders which are useful as optional components are zeolites, water glasses, layered silicates, phosphates and polycarboxylates.
  • the finely crystalline, synthetic and bound water-containing zeolite frequently used as detergent builder is preferably zeolite A and / or P.
  • zeolite P for example, zeolite MAP (R) (commercial product from Crosfield) is particularly preferred.
  • zeolite X and mixtures of A, X and / or P as well as Y.
  • zeolite A and zeolite X which (as VEGOBOND AX ® commercial product of Condea Augusta SpA ) is commercially available.
  • the zeolite can be used as a spray-dried powder or else as undried, still moist, stabilized suspension of its preparation.
  • the zeolite may contain minor additions of nonionic surfactants as stabilizers, for example 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on zeolite, of ethoxylated Ci 2 -C ⁇ 8 fatty alcohols having 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups , C 12 -C 1 fatty alcohols with 4 to 5 ethylene oxide groups or ethoxylated isotridecanols.
  • Suitable zeolites have an average particle size of less than 10 ⁇ m (volume distribution, measuring method: Coulter Counter) and preferably contain 18 to 22% by weight, in particular 20 to 22% by weight, of bound water.
  • Suitable substitutes or partial substitutes for phosphates and zeolites are crystalline, layered sodium silicates of the general formula NaMSi x O 2x + 1 , yH 2 ⁇ , where M is sodium or hydrogen, x is a number from 1.9 to 4 and y is a number from 0 to 20 and preferred values for x are 2, 3 or 4.
  • Such crystalline layered silicates are described, for example, in European Patent Application EP 0164514 A1.
  • Preferred crystalline layered silicates of the formula given are those in which M is sodium and x assumes the values 2 or 3.
  • Further suitable phyllosilicates are known, for example, from patent applications DE 2334899 A1, EP 0026529 A1 and DE 3526405 A1. Its usability is not limited to any particular composition or structural formula. However, preference is given here to smectites, in particular benzonites. Suitable layered silicates which belong to the group of water-swellable smectites are, for example, those of the general formulas
  • the phyllosilicates may contain hydrogen, alkali, alkaline earth metal ions, in particular Na + and Ca 2+ , due to their ion-exchanging properties.
  • the amount of water of hydration is usually in the range of 8 to 20 wt .-% and is dependent on the swelling state or on the type of processing.
  • Useful layered silicates are known, for example, from US Pat. No. 3,966,629, US Pat. No. 4,062,647, EP 0026529 A1 and EP 0028432 A1.
  • phyllosilicates are used, which are largely free of calcium ions and strong coloring iron ions due to an alkali treatment.
  • the preferred builder substances also include amorphous sodium silicates with a Na 2 O: SiO 2 modulus of from 1: 2 to 1: 3.3, preferably from 1: 2 to 1: 2.8, and in particular from 1: 2 to 1: 2, 6, which are delay-delayed.
  • the dissolution delay over conventional amorphous sodium silicates may have been caused in various ways, for example by surface treatment, compounding, compacting / densification or by overdrying.
  • the term "amo ⁇ h” is also understood to mean “roentgeno".
  • the silicates are not sharp in X-ray diffraction experiments X-ray reflections, as they are typical for crystalline substances, but at best one or more maxima of the scattered X-radiation, which have a width of several degrees of the diffraction angle. However, it may well even lead to particularly good builder properties if the silicate particles provide blurred or even sharp diffraction maxima in electron diffraction experiments. This is to be integrated in such a way that the products have microcrystalline areas of size 10 to a few hundred nm, with values of up to max. 50 nm and in particular up to max. 20 nm are preferred.
  • phosphates As builder substances, if such an application should not be avoided for ecological reasons.
  • Particularly suitable are the sodium salts of orthophosphates, pyrophosphates and in particular tripolyphosphates.
  • Their content is generally not more than 25 wt .-%, preferably not more than 20 wt .-%, each based on the finished agent.
  • tripolyphosphates even in small amounts up to a maximum of 10% by weight, based on the finished agent, in combination with other builder substances lead to a synergistic improvement in the secondary washing power.
  • Useful organic builders which are suitable as co-builders are, for example, the polycarboxylic acids which can be used in the form of their sodium salts, such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids, aminocarboxylic acids, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), if such use is for ecological reasons not to complain about, as well as mixtures of these.
  • Preferred salts are the salts of polycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids and mixtures thereof. The acids themselves can also be used.
  • the acids in addition to their building
  • the effect typically also the property of an acidifying component and thus also serve to set a lower and milder pH of detergents or cleaners.
  • citric acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, gluconic acid and any desired mixtures of these can be mentioned here.
  • dextrins for example oligomers or polymers of carbohydrates, which can be obtained by partial hydrolysis of starches.
  • the hydrolysis can be carried out by customary, for example acid or enzyme catalyzed processes. Preference is given to hydrolysis products having average molecular weights in the range from 400 to 500,000.
  • a polysaccharide with a dextrose equivalent (DE) in the range from 0.5 to 40, in particular from 2 to 30 is preferred, DE being a customary measure for the reducing effect of a polysaccharide compared to dextrose, which has a DE of 100.
  • DE dextrose equivalent
  • maltodextrins with a DE of between 3 and 20 and dry glucose syrups with a DE of between 20 and 37 and also so-called yellow dextrins and white dextrins with relatively high molecular weights in the range from 2,000 to 30,000.
  • a preferred dextrin is described in British patent application GB 9419091 A1 , The oxidized derivatives of such dextrins are their reaction products with oxidizing agents which are capable of oxidizing at least one alcohol function of the saccharide ring to the carboxylic acid function.
  • co-builders are oxydisuccinates and other derivatives of disuccinates, preferably ethylenediamine disuccinate. Also particularly preferred in this context are glycerol disuccinates and glycerol trisuccinates, as they are for example, in US Pat. Nos. 4,524,009, 4,639,325, European Patent Application EP 0150930 Al and Japanese Patent Application JP 93/339896.
  • Useful organic cobuilders are, for example, acetylated hydroxycarboxylic acids or their salts, which may optionally also be present in lactone form and which have at least 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and also at most contain two acid groups. Such co-builders are described, for example, in International Patent Application WO 95/20029.
  • Suitable polymeric polycarboxylates are, for example, the sodium salts of polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid, for example those having a relative molecular weight of 800 to 150,000 (based on acid and measured in each case against polystyrenesulfonic acid).
  • Suitable copolymeric polycarboxylates are, in particular, those of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with maleic acid. Copolymers of acrylic acid with maleic acid which contain 50 to 90% by weight of acrylic acid and 50 to 10% by weight of maleic acid have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Their molecular weight relative to free acids is generally from 5,000 to 200,000, preferably from 10,000 to 120,000 and in particular from 50,000 to 100,000 (in each case measured against polystyrene sulfonic acid).
  • the (co) polymeric polycarboxylates can be used either as a powder or as an aqueous solution, with 20 to 55% by weight aqueous solutions being preferred.
  • Granular polymers are usually added later to one or more basic granules.
  • biodegradable polymers of more than two different monomer units for example those which according to DE 4300772 Al as salts of acrylic acid and maleic acid and vinyl alcohol or vinyl alcohol derivatives or according to DE 4221381 C2 as the monomers salts of Acrylic acid and 2-alkylallylsulfonic acid and sugar derivatives.
  • Further preferred copolymers are those which are described in German patent applications DE 4303320 A1 and DE 4417734 A1 and preferably have as monomers acrolein and acrylic acid / acrylic acid salts or acrolein and vinyl acetate.
  • Other preferred builders include polymeric aminodicarboxylic acids, their salts or their precursors. Particular preference is given to polyaspartic acids or their salts and derivatives.
  • polyacetals which can be obtained by reacting dialdehydes with polyolcarboxylic acids which have 5 to 7 C atoms and at least 3 hydroxyl groups, for example as described in European patent application EP 0280223 A1.
  • Preferred polyacetals are obtained from dialdehydes such as glyoxal, glutaraldehyde, terephthalaldehyde and mixtures thereof and from polyol carboxylic acids such as gluconic acid and / or glucoheptonic acid.
  • the third component of the combination according to the invention is a cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the selection of the active ingredient in question depends on the desired effect, which is to be achieved with the molded body.
  • the active substance groups described below are preferably selected according to the invention.
  • the first group of active ingredients are fatty substances (D).
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids As fatty acids (DI) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • DI fatty acids
  • fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 3 u- , preferably C 10 -C 22 -and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol CS ®, ® Novol, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 16 or Isocarb ® 24 available for purchase 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • - Ester oils Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • Isopropymiyristat (Rilanit ® IPM), isononanoic acid-Cl6-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-Ethylhexyl ⁇ almitat (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, caprylate glycerol triesters, coconut fatty alcohol caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ® A), di-n -butyladipat (Cetio
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R is an acyl radical and R and R are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q ) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oils used in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5
  • the agents used according to the invention comprise surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on top and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in formulations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical,
  • Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE -Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfobemstem acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenylethe
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ or -SO 3 H group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycollate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropy
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 8 -C 2 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and for the formation of internal Salts are capable.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polypropylene glycol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • R ! CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amine Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amine
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-JJ) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as used, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference may be made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms. atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • Glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R represents hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides , Isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo alcohols When so-called "oxo alcohols” are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotaleite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • cationic surfactants are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamines or else esterquats.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are Ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, hydroxyethyl hydroxycetyl dimmonium chlorides and those listed under the INCI names Quatemium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentione are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds,
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • R 15 and R 16 are each independently hydrogen or R 14 CO
  • R 15 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH 2 CH 2 ⁇ ) m4 H Group
  • ml, m2 and m3 in total is 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
  • m4 is numbers from 1 to 12
  • Y is halide, alkylsulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • esterquats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, such as for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils incurred.
  • the fatty acids and triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of from 1.1: 1 to 3: 1.
  • an employment ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical C 16 / ⁇ 8 - tallow or palm oil fatty acid (iodine 0 to 40) from ,
  • quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (E5-I) have proved particularly advantageous, in which R 14 is CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 is R 15 CO, R 16 is hydrogen, R 17 is a methyl group , ml, m2 and m3 are 0 and Y is methylsulfate.
  • quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (E5-JJ) are furthermore suitable as ester quats.
  • R 18 CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 19 is hydrogen or R 18 CO
  • R 20 and R 21 are independently alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m5 and m6 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and Y again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • R 22 CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 23 is hydrogen or R 22 CO
  • R 24 , R 25 and R 26 are independently alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m7 and m8 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X again stands for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • esterquats are substances in which the ester is replaced by an amide bond and which are preferably based on diethylenetriamine of the formula (E5-IV),
  • R 27 is CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 28 is hydrogen or R 27 CO
  • R 29 and R 30 are independently alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • Y is again halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • Amidesterquats are available for example under the brand Incroquat® (Croda) in the market.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products will be For example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® distributed.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention by emulsifiers (F) can be increased.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable Adso ⁇ tions Anlagenen which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found i ⁇ "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • - Roorangs consist of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product Han del Montano '68, -
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product) - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in Römpp-Lexikori Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M.Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives may be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • compositions which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylän ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the effect of the active compounds (A) by UV filter (I) can be increased.
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, whose absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm), are suitable UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobrom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsilicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3.3 6 - (l, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept- l-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and its salts, l- (4
  • water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be dissolved in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature. at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic grappe, in particular a quaternary ammonium clump.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • this grappe can be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a grappe, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is protected by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function. is replaced.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen so that the Abso ⁇ tionsmaximum the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structure part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum lies above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium grape as cationic grapple.
  • This quaternary Ammoniumgrappe can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the grappe Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R independently of one another are C 1-4 Alkyl groups, R 3 is a C ⁇ . 22 - Alkyl distr or a Benzylgrappe and X "is a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methylgrappe and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride are (Incro- quat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination tion of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 -C -alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ⁇ ) and 3,4-didehydro (vitamin A 2).
  • Ss-Carotene is the provitamin of retinool.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • panthenol pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this grapple.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6ai?) - 2-oxohexa-hydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, white dome, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.
  • Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents are contained. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help to swell the keratin fiber.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids may additionally cooperate in a supportive manner with the combination according to the invention.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and derivatives thereof according to the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or hninograppen.
  • Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups.
  • substituents in ⁇ - position are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino grappenes, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids examples include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6, 6'-bmicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature.
  • German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 discloses deodorizing agents which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids.
  • German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained.
  • German Patent Application 197 54 053 means for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization reaction.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils.
  • the monocarboxylic acid component in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred.
  • mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water are also usable according to the invention be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention.
  • examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts.
  • neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, omithine and histidine.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • a very particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active substance dummy are polyhydroxy compounds.
  • polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components according to the invention may therefore be particularly preferred.
  • polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning all substances which fulfill the definition in Rompp's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups. In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:
  • Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and having a carbon chain of from 2 to 30 carbon atoms for example trimethylolpropane
  • monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and the literature known -OH - and -NH - Schutzgrappen, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl group or Acylgrappen and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester may be present
  • oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protective grafts such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acylgrappene and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptaned
  • polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, Allose, altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose,
  • the polyols (B) according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1% by weight up to 10% by weight.
  • the final preparations may also contain inorganic salts as fillers or leveling agents, such as, for example, sodium sulfate, which is preferably present in amounts of from 0 to 10, in particular from 1 to 5,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • inorganic salts such as, for example, sodium sulfate, which is preferably present in amounts of from 0 to 10, in particular from 1 to 5,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the consumer may, in the perception of the molded body, in particular caused by a spherical shape of the molded body, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, the colorant according to the invention with a stimulant such.
  • a stimulant such.
  • the molded body according to the invention therefore contains a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proven to be superior to the nonionic.
  • Ionogenic bitter substances preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s), are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic grappe both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ® and with indigenous stin ® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bittering agent is contained in the moldings according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molded body. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • these preparations may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic products components.
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
  • dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, is
  • Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • fiber-structure-improving active substances in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well
  • Phospholipids for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, defoamers such as silicones,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • the moldings of the invention may take any geometric shape, such as concave, convex, biconcave, biconvex, cubic, tetragonal, orthorhombic, cylindrical, spherical, cylinder segment, disk-shaped, tetrahedral, dodecahedral, octahedral, conical, pyramidal, ellipsoidal, pentagonal, hexagonal and octagonal prismatic as well as rhombohedral forms. Even completely irregular surfaces such as arrow or Tier ⁇ n, trees, clouds, etc. can be realized.
  • the bar or bar shape, cubes, cuboids and corresponding space elements with flat side surfaces and in particular cylindrical embodiments with circular or oval cross-section and shaped body with spherical geometry are inventively preferred. Molded bodies in the form of spherical geometry are particularly preferred.
  • the cylinder-shaped embodiment detects the presentation form of the tablet up to compact cylinder pieces with a height-to-diameter ratio greater than 1. If the base molded body has corners and edges, these are preferably rounded. As an additional optical differentiation, an embodiment with rounded corners and beveled (“chamfered”) edges is preferred.
  • the portioned compacts can each be designed as separate individual elements which corresponds to the predetermined dosage amount of the cosmetic active ingredients.
  • the formation of the portioned compacts as tablets in cylindrical or cuboidal shape may be appropriate, with a diameter / height ratio in the range of about 0.5: 2 to 2: 0.5 is preferred.
  • Commercial hydraulic presses, Exzente ⁇ ressen or Rundurgi ⁇ ressen are suitable devices, especially for the production of such compacts.
  • the preferred spatial form of the molded body according to the invention has a rectangular base area, wherein the height of the molded body is smaller than the smaller rectangle side of the base area. Rounded corners are preferred in this offer form.
  • Another preferred molded article that can be made has a plate-like or tabular structure with alternating thick long and thin short segments so that individual segments of that "tie" at the desired break locations that constitute the short thin segments are broken and portioned can be used.
  • This principle of the "bar-shaped" shaped body can also be realized in other geometric shapes, for example vertical triangles, which are connected together only on one of their sides alongside one another.
  • molded body Contain the molded body according to the invention at least two cosmetic agents, it may be advantageous in a further AusSteangsform not to ve ⁇ ressen the various components exclusively to a single tablet.
  • tableting molded articles are obtained in this embodiment form, which have a plurality of layers, ie at least two layers. It is also possible that these different layers have different dissolution rates. This can result in advantageous application properties of the molded body. For example, if components are included in the molded articles that interact negatively, it is possible to integrate one component in the faster soluble layer and incorporate the other component into a slower soluble layer so that the components do not already undergo dissolution react with each other.
  • the layer structure of the molded body can be carried out either in a stack, wherein a solution process of the inner layer (s) already takes place at the edges of the molded body when the outer layers are not yet completely dissolved.
  • the stacking axis can be arranged as desired to the tablet axis. The stacking axis can therefore be parallel or perpendicular to the height of the cylinder, for example, in the case of a cylindrical tablet.
  • the inner layer (s) may also be preferred if complete envelopment of the inner layer (s) is achieved by the respectively further outer layer (s), which leads to a prevention of premature dissolution of constituents of the inner layer (FIG. en).
  • Moldings in which the layers are enveloped by the various active substances are preferred. For example, one layer (A) is completely covered by the layer (B) and this in turn is completely enveloped by the layer (C). Likewise, moldings may be preferred in which e.g. the layer (C) is completely covered by the layer (B) and this in turn is completely enveloped by the layer (A).
  • the Kö ⁇ er to be coated for example, be sprayed with aqueous solutions or emulsions, or obtained via the process of melt coating a coating.
  • the (trough) moldings produced according to the invention can be wholly or partially provided with a coating.
  • Processes in which an aftertreatment in the application of a coating layer to the molded body surface (s) in which the filled trough (s) are located or in the application of a coating layer to the entire molded body are preferred according to the invention.
  • After Ve ⁇ ressen the molded body have a high stability.
  • the breaking strength of cylindrical molded bodies can be detected by the measurand of the diametrical breaking load. This is determinable
  • ⁇ is the diametrical fracture stress (DFS) in Pa
  • P is the force in N which results in the pressure applied to the molded body causing the broke of the molded body
  • D is the molded body diameter in meters and t the height of the molded body.
  • the molded articles of the present invention preferably have a density of
  • 0.3 g / cm 3 to 2.0 g / cm 3 in particular from 0.5 g / cm 3 to 1, lg / cm.
  • the molded body according to the invention may consist of a Forrnkö ⁇ er described with the term "Basisformkö ⁇ er", prepared by known tableting processes, which has a trough.
  • Basisformkö ⁇ er prepared by known tableting processes, which has a trough.
  • the Basisformkö ⁇ er is first prepared and the other v ⁇ reßte part in a further step on or in this Basisformkö ⁇ er or introduced.
  • the resulting product is hereinafter referred to by the generic term "Muldenformkö ⁇ er” or "depression tablet”.
  • the basic molded body according to the invention can in principle assume all realizable spatial forms. Particularly preferred are the spatial forms already mentioned above.
  • the shape of the trough can be chosen freely, wherein according to the invention Formgro ⁇ er are preferred in which at least one trough a concave, convex, cubic, tetragonal, orthorhombische, cylindrical, spherical, cylinder segment, disc-shaped, tetrahedral, dodecahedrale, octahedral, conical, pyramidal, ellipsoidal , five-, seven- and octagonal-prismatic as well as rhombohedral form. Also completely irregular trough forms such as arrow or animal forms, trees, clouds etc. can will be realized. As with the basic moldings, wells with rounded corners and edges or with rounded corners and chamfered edges are preferred.
  • the size of the trough compared to the entire molded body depends on the intended use of the molded body. Depending on whether a smaller or larger amount of active substance should be contained in the second part, the size of the trough may vary. Irrespective of the intended use molded articles are preferred in which the weight ratio of Basisformkö ⁇ er to well filling in the range of 1: 1 to 100: 1, preferably from 2: 1 to 80: 1, more preferably from 3: 1 to 50: 1 and in particular of 4 : 1 to 30: 1.
  • Fom gro ⁇ er are preferred in which the surface of the pressed-depression filling 1 to 25%, preferably 2 to 20%, more preferably 3 to 15% and in particular 4 to 10% of the total surface of the filled Basisformkö ⁇ ers.
  • the trough filling and the Basisformkö ⁇ er are preferably colored visually distinguishable.
  • well tablets have performance advantages on the one hand by different solubilities of the different areas on the other hand, but also by the separate storage of the active ingredients in the different Formgro ⁇ er Suiteen.
  • Moldings in which the pressed-in cavity filling dissolves more slowly than the Basisformkö ⁇ er, according to the invention are preferred.
  • the solubility of the well filling can be selectively varied,
  • the release of certain ingredients from the well fill can lead to benefits in the application process.
  • the molding of the invention is first carried out by the dry mixing of the ingredients, which may be pre-granulated in whole or in part, and subsequent InformML, in particular Ve ⁇ ressen to tablets, which can be used on known methods.
  • the premix is compacted in a so-called die between two punches to a solid compressed. This process, hereinafter referred to as tabletting, is divided into four sections: dosing, compaction (elastic deformation), plastic deformation and ejection.
  • the premix is introduced into the die, wherein the filling amount and thus the weight and the shape of the resulting molded body are determined by the position of the lower punch and the shape of the pressing tool.
  • the constant dosage even at high Formgro ⁇ er Struktur orders is preferably achieved via a volumetric dosing of the premix.
  • the upper punch contacts the pre-mix and continues to descend toward the lower punch.
  • the particles of the premix are pressed closer to each other, with the void volume within the filling between the punches decreasing continuously. From a certain position of the upper punch (and thus from a certain pressure on the premix) begins the plastic deformation, in which the particles flow together and it comes to the formation of the molded body.
  • the premix particles Depending on the physical properties of the premix, a portion of the premix particles is also crushed, and even higher pressures cause sintering of the premix. With increasing press speed, so high throughputs, the phase of the elastic deformation is shortened more and more, so that the resulting molded body can have more or less large cavities.
  • the finished molded body is pushed out of the die by the lower punch and carried away by subsequent transport means. At this time, only the weight of Formgro ⁇ ers is finally determined because the compacts due to physical processes (re-expansion, crystallographic effects, cooling, etc.) can change their shape and size.
  • the tableting is carried out in commercial tablet presses, which can be equipped in principle with single or double punches.
  • the upper punch is used for Drackied
  • the lower punch moves during the pressing on the upper punch, while the upper punch presses down.
  • eccentric tablet presses are preferably used in which the die or punches are attached to an eccentric disc, which in turn is mounted on an axis at a certain rotational speed.
  • the movement of these punches is comparable to the operation of a conventional four-stroke engine.
  • the Ve ⁇ ressung can be done with a respective upper and lower punch, but it can also be attached more stamp on an eccentric disc, the number of die holes is extended accordingly.
  • the throughputs of Exzente ⁇ ressen vary indeed on the type of a few hundred to a maximum of 3000 tablets per hour.
  • rotary tablet presses are selected in which a larger number of dies are arranged in a circle on a so-called die table.
  • the number of matrices varies between 6 and 55 depending on the model, although larger matrices are commercially available.
  • Each die on the die table is assigned an upper and lower punch, in turn, the pressing pressure active only by the Obertial. Lower stamp, but can also be built by both stamps.
  • the die table and the punches move about a common vertical axis, the punches are brought by means of rail-like cam tracks during the circulation in the positions for filling, compression, plastic deformation and ejection.
  • Concentric presses can be provided with two Drik to increase the throughput, with the production of a tablet only a semicircle must be traversed.
  • suitable process control coat and point tablets can be produced in this way, which have a zwiebelschalenartigen structure, wherein in the case of the point tablets, the top of the core or the core layers is not covered and thus remains visible.
  • Even rotary tablet presses can be equipped with single or multiple tools, so that, for example, an outer circle with 50 and an inner circle with 35 holes are used simultaneously for Ve ⁇ ressen.
  • the throughputs of modern rotary tablet presses amount to over one million molded articles per hour.
  • Tableting machines suitable for the purposes of the present invention are obtainable, for example, from Apparatebau Holzwarth GbR, Asperg, Wilhelm Fette GmbH, Schwarzenbek, Farm Instruments Company, Houston, Texas (USA), Hofer GmbH, Weil, Hom & Noack Pharmatechnik GmbH, Worms, TMA Ve ⁇ ackungssysteme GmbH Viersen, KTLIAN, Cologne, KOMAGE, Kell am See, KORSCH Press AG, Berlin, and Ro aco GmbH, Worms.
  • Other providers include Dr. med. Herbert Pete, Vienna (AT), Mapag Maschinenbau AG, Berne (CH), BWI Manesty, Live ⁇ ool (GB), I.
  • the process for producing the molded body is not limited to merely ve ⁇ reßt a particulate premix to a Formgro ⁇ er. Rather, the method can also be extended to the extent that it produces in a conventional manner multilayer molded body by preparing two or more premixes, which are ve ⁇ reßt each other.
  • the first-filled premix is easily vorve ⁇ reßt to get a smooth and parallel to Formgro ⁇ er convinced extending top, and after filling the second premix endve ⁇ reßt the finished molded body.
  • a further pre-compression takes place before the molded body is finished after the last premix has been added.
  • the Ve ⁇ ressung the particulate composition in the trough can be carried out analogously to the preparation of Basisformkö ⁇ er on tablet presses. Preference is given to a procedure in which only the basic molded body is produced with a trough, then filled and then re-pressed. This can be done by ejecting the Basisformkö ⁇ er from a first tablet press, filling and transport in a second tablet press, in which the Endve ⁇ ressung occurs. Alternatively, the Endve ⁇ ressung also by pressure rollers that roll over the located on a conveyor belt Formgro ⁇ er done.
  • the molded body according to the invention can be ve ⁇ ackt after production, with the use of certain Ve ⁇ ackungssystems has proven particularly effective, as these Ve ⁇ ackungssysteme on the one hand increase the storage stability of the ingredients, but on the other hand, if necessary, but also significantly improve the long-term adhesion of the trough filling.
  • the term "Ve ⁇ ackungssystem” characterized in the context of the present invention is always the Primärve ⁇ ackung the Formkö ⁇ er, ie Ve ⁇ ackung, which is directly on the inside with the Formgro ⁇ erober Structure in contact. An optional Sekundmaschineve ⁇ ackung no requirements are made, so that all the usual materials and systems can be used here.
  • Ve ⁇ ackungssysteme are preferred, which have only a low moisture permeability. In this way, the coloring ability of the molded body according to the invention over a longer period can be obtained, even if, for example, hygroscopic components are used in the Formgro ⁇ ern.
  • packing systems which have a moisture vapor transmission rate of 0.1 g / m 2 / day to less than 20 g / m 2 / day when the compression system is stored at 23 ° C and a relative equilibrium humidity of 85%.
  • the temperature and humidity conditions mentioned are the test conditions specified in the DDSf standard 53122, whereby according to DTN 53122 minimum deviations are permissible (23 ⁇ 1 ° C, 85 ⁇ 2% relative humidity).
  • the moisture vapor transmission rate of a given spray system or material can be determined by further standard methods and is also, for example, in the ASTM standard E-96-53T (test for measuring water vapor transmission of material in sheet form) and in the TAPPI standard T464 m-45 ("Water Vapor Permeability of Sheet Materials at High Temperature Humidity").
  • the measuring principle of current methods is based on the water absorption of anhydrous calcium chloride, which is stored in a container in the appropriate atmosphere, the container is closed at the top with the material to be tested. From the surface of the container, which is closed with the material to be tested (permeation surface), the increase in weight of the calcium chloride and the exposure time, the moisture vapor transmission rate decreases
  • A is the area of the material to be tested in cm
  • x is the weight gain of calcium chloride in g
  • y is the exposure time in h.
  • the absorption capacity of air for water vapor increases with the temperature up to a respective maximum content, the so-called saturation content, and is expressed in g / m.
  • 1 m of air is saturated by 17 ° with 14.4 g of water vapor, at a temperature of 11 ° is already saturated with 10 g of water vapor.
  • the Ve ⁇ ackungssystem encloses depending on the embodiment of the invention, one or more Formgro ⁇ er. It is inventively preferred either to design a molded body such that it comprises an application unit of the colorant, and ve ⁇ acken this Moldkö ⁇ er individually, or the number of Formgro ⁇ em in one Pack packaging unit, which in total comprises an application unit.
  • this principle can be extended, so that combinations according to the invention can also contain three, four, five or even more molded bodies in a packing unit.
  • two or more molded articles in a pack may have different compositions. In this way, it is possible to spatially separate certain components, for example to avoid stability problems.
  • the Ve ⁇ ackungssystem the combination of the invention may consist of a variety of materials and take any external forms. For economic reasons and for reasons of ease of processing, however, Ve ⁇ ackungssysteme are preferred in which the Ve ⁇ ackungsmaterial has a low weight, easy to work and inexpensive and ecologically sound.
  • the packaging system consists of a bag or bags of single-layered or laminated paper and / or plastic film.
  • the moldings can be unsorted, i. as a loose filling, be filled in a bag of the materials mentioned.
  • This Ve ⁇ ackungssystme can then - again preferably sorted - are optionally ve ⁇ ackt in Umve ⁇ ack Institute, which underlines the compact form of the Formgro ⁇ ers offer.
  • the preferably used as Ve ⁇ ackungssystem sacks or bags of single-layer or laminated paper or plastic film can be designed in a variety of ways, such as inflated bag without center seam or bags with center seam, which closed by heat (heat fusion), adhesives or adhesive tapes become.
  • Single-layer bag or bag materials are the known papers, which may optionally be impregnated, as well as plastic films, which may optionally be coextradiert.
  • plastic, which can be used as Ve ⁇ ackungssystem in the context of the present invention are, for example, in Hans Domininghaus "The Plastics and their properties", 3rd edition, VDI Verlag, Dusseldorf, 1988, page 193 indicated.
  • the figure 111 shown there also provides clues to the water vapor permeability of the materials mentioned.
  • Ve ⁇ ackungssystem for the molded in addition to the mentioned films or papers
  • the Ve ⁇ ackungssystem does not comprise boxes of wax-coated paper.
  • Ve ⁇ ackungssystem is designed resealable.
  • a reclosable tube of glass, plastic or even metal as the packaging system.
  • Ve ⁇ ackungssysteme that have a micro perforation can be realized according to the invention with preference.
  • a second object of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers, wherein
  • Application mixture is mixed on AN, (in) the application mixture AN applied to the fibers and
  • the medium M is preferably a gel or an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion.
  • the medium M has a viscosity of 500 -
  • the detergent tablets obtainable using the disintegrating agents according to the invention are generally produced by tableting or pressing agglomerating.
  • the particle-shaped Preßagglomerate obtained can either be used directly as a detergent or aftertreated by conventional methods and / or prepared beforehand.
  • the usual post-treatments include, for example, powdering with finely divided ingredients of detergents or cleaners, whereby the bulk density is generally further increased.
  • a preferred aftertreatment is also the procedure according to the German patent applications DE 19524287 AI and DE 19547457 AI, wherein dust-like or at least finely divided ingredients (the so-called fines) are adhered to the inventively produced teilchenformigen process end products, which serve as a core, and thus means arise , which have these so-called fines as an outer shell.
  • the solid detergents are in tablet form, these tablets preferably having rounded corners and edges, in particular for storage and transport reasons.
  • the base of these tablets may, for example, be circular or rectangular.
  • Multi-layer tablets, especially tablets with 2 or 3 layers, which may also be different in color, are especially preferred. Blue-white or green-white or blue-green-white tablets are particularly preferred.
  • the tablets can also contain pressed and unpressed portions.
  • Molded body with particularly advantageous dissolution rates are obtained when the granular constituents before being compressed have a proportion of particles having a diameter outside the range of 0.02 to 6 mm of less than 20, preferably less than 10% by weight.
  • the compaction of the swellable substances can be carried out in common presses, e.g. Screw presses, hydraulic presses, Exzente ⁇ ressen or Rundtown ⁇ ressen be carried out at pressures in the range of 50 to 100,000, preferably 100 to 10,000 and in particular 1,000 to 5,000 bar.
  • common presses e.g. Screw presses, hydraulic presses, Exzente ⁇ ressen or Rundtown ⁇ ressen be carried out at pressures in the range of 50 to 100,000, preferably 100 to 10,000 and in particular 1,000 to 5,000 bar.
  • the known methods of the prior art come into consideration.
  • the comminuted material is sieved and a good grain fraction in the range between 0.1 and 2, preferably 0.2 and 1.5 and in particular 0.4 and 1 mm removed.
  • the preparation of the new fragrance tablets is usually done by Preßagglomerierung.
  • the particle-shaped Preßagglomerate obtained can either be used directly as a detergent or aftertreated by conventional methods and / or prepared beforehand.
  • the usual aftertreatments include, for example, powdering with finely divided ingredients of detergents or cleaning agents, preferably Buildem or talcum aerosils, whereby the bulk density is generally further increased.
  • a preferred aftertreatment is also the procedure according to the German patent applications DE 19524287 AI and DE 19547457 AI, wherein dust-like or at least finely divided ingredients (the so-called fines) are adhered to the inventively produced teilchenformigen process end products, which serve as a core, and thus means arise , which have these so-called fines as an outer shell.
  • the fragrance tablets for storage and transport technical reasons have rounded corners and edges.
  • the base of these tablets may, for example, be circular or rectangular.
  • Multi-layer tablets, especially tablets with 2 or 3 layers, which may also be different in color, are especially preferred. Blue-white or green-white or blue-green-white tablets are particularly preferred.
  • the tablets can also contain pressed and unpressed portions.
  • Moldings having a particularly advantageous dissolution rate are obtained when the granular constituents before being compressed have a proportion of particles * which have a diameter outside the range from 0.02 to 6 mm of less than 20, preferably less than 10% by weight , A particle size distribution in the range from 0.05 to 2.0 and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.0 mm is preferred.
  • Gluadin ® W 40 Hydroyzed Wheat Gluten, Cognis, 40% active in water 0.5%
  • Gluadin® ® WQ Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
  • Elastin hydrolyzate 0.2% The tablet is dissolved in a cup or bowl in 50 ml of water. It forms a viscous gel, which can be applied as usual on the keratinous Fasem.
  • the tablet can be foamed in the hand with the addition of water to a foam and then applied as usual on the keratinous fibers.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des corps de mise en forme pour la mise en forme d'une coiffure, lesquels corps contiennent dans un excipient cosmétiquement acceptable au moins un polymère, au moins un accélérateur de dissolution et au moins un principe actif cosmétique.
PCT/EP2004/002575 2003-03-19 2004-03-12 Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques Ceased WO2004082650A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP04719956A EP1603522A1 (fr) 2003-03-19 2004-03-12 Corps de mise en forme pour le traitement de fibres keratiniques

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10312270.2 2003-03-19
DE2003112270 DE10312270A1 (de) 2003-03-19 2003-03-19 Formkörper zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern

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WO2004082650A1 true WO2004082650A1 (fr) 2004-09-30

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WO2007093203A1 (fr) * 2005-12-05 2007-08-23 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Produit structurant
US10046183B2 (en) 2011-03-21 2018-08-14 Coloright Ltd. Systems for custom coloration
WO2012127429A2 (fr) 2011-03-21 2012-09-27 Coloright Ltd. Systèmes pour coloration personnalisée
EP3854376A2 (fr) 2011-03-21 2021-07-28 Coloright Ltd. Systèmes pour coloration personnalisée
US9205283B2 (en) 2011-03-21 2015-12-08 Coloright Ltd. Systems for custom coloration
US9844687B2 (en) 2011-03-21 2017-12-19 Coloright Ltd. Systems for custom coloration
EP3508254A1 (fr) 2013-09-26 2019-07-10 Coloright Ltd. Système pour la préparation de compositions colorantes pour cheveux
US10302495B2 (en) 2013-09-26 2019-05-28 Coloright Ltd. Hair reader, dispenser device and related systems and methods
WO2015044944A2 (fr) 2013-09-26 2015-04-02 Coloright Ltd. Lecteur de cheveux, dispositif distributeur et systèmes et procédés associés
US10012588B2 (en) 2014-04-27 2018-07-03 Coloright Ltd. Apparatus and method for customized hair-coloring
US10416078B2 (en) 2014-04-27 2019-09-17 Coloright Ltd. Apparatus and method for customized hair-coloring
US10806234B2 (en) 2014-04-27 2020-10-20 Coloright Ltd. Apparatus and method for analyzing hair and/or predicting an outcome of a hair-coloring treatment
WO2018127784A1 (fr) 2017-01-06 2018-07-12 Coloright Ltd. Porte-cheveux, lecteur de cheveux comprenant celui-ci, et procédés d'acquisition optique de données à partir de cheveux

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