WO2004068995A2 - Hydrogelling cationic amide for cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition, in aqueous media or water and a solvent, having a non-phosphated, cationic, gelling molecular composition with a molecular weight less than 2,000 g/mol and comprising at least two amide groups, one asymmetric carbon and one fatty chain with at least eight carbon atoms.

Description

 CATIONIC HYDROGELIFYING AMIDE IN COSMETICS

The subject of the invention is the use, in cosmetics, of cationic hydrogelling amides.

Thickened compositions are known, in particular hair gels, which are generally applied to the hair before shaping the hairstyle. To shape and fix the hairstyle, we then do a brushing or styling.

These thickened compositions, in particular these gels, can contain polymer resins.

However, they often have the drawback of altering the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, the hair can become coarse, difficult to disentangle, lose its touch and its pleasant appearance or even lack body. We are therefore looking for such hair cosmetic compositions providing good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling, softness and feel.

In addition, thickened hair cosmetic compositions also have the major drawback of giving rise to a dusting effect. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dusting" means the ability of the material obtained by drying the hair composition to form a powder after its application to the hair.

The aqueous cosmetic media are, in general, gelled by crosslinked hydrophilic polymers. It is difficult to produce aqueous cosmetic gels which, after drying on the hair, have good resistance to a humid climate.

There is therefore a need to find cosmetic compositions, in particular thickened capillaries, in particular hair gels, which do not have all of the drawbacks indicated above, and which, in particular withstand a humid climate.

To solve this problem, the invention proposes the use in cosmetics of small chiral molecules with amide functions and with fatty chains, containing ionic functions. These molecules are described in the literature, and in particular in the following publications: Chemistry Letters 2002, (7), 704-705; New Journal of Chemistry 2002, 26 (7), 817-818; Chemical Communications (Cambridge, United Kingdom) 2002, (8), 884-885.

The Applicant has now discovered that after drying on the hair, these gels form deposits having excellent resistance to humidity.

The subject of the invention is the use in a cosmetic composition, in aqueous medium or water + solvent, of a non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol and comprising at least:

- two amide groups,

- an asymmetric carbon,

- a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.

By "molecular compound" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any compound whose backbone does not result from a polymerization. This does not exclude that the compound may contain one or more polyoxyalkylenated or polyoxyglycerolated groups.

By "cationic molecule" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a molecule comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom.

THICKENING MOLECULAR COMPOUND

In accordance with the invention, the ionic thickening non-phosphorous molecular compound has a molecular weight of less than 2,000 g / mol and it comprises at least:

- two amide groups,

- an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.

More advantageously still, the fatty chain contains between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably between 8 and 22 carbon atoms. According to a preferred version, the thickening molecular compound has a molecular weight of less than 100 g / mol, and preferably less than 800 g / mol.

Advantageously, at least one fatty chain is linked directly to the amide group, and in particular, at least one fatty chain is linked to the amide group by a carbonyl function. More preferably, the thickening molecular compound contains at least two fatty chains and, even more preferably, at least one fatty chain is part of an ester group.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the molecular thickening compound contains at least two sequences -CONH-.

In particular, the thickening compound is present in the aqueous medium at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 60%, and preferably between 0.25 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the composition forms a film after drying. In a preferred mode, the film is insoluble in pure water, at room temperature. On the other hand, it can be soluble, at acidic or alkaline pH.

As molecular thickening compound, mention may be made of 1- (11- ((((S) - 1-ethoxycarbonyl-5 - ((1-oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) - 11-oxoundecyl) pyridinium bromide).

These molecular compounds can be applied to hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails. They are used especially for hair.

There are different modes of application of the thickening molecular compound on the hair. We can cite these: Application 1: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or a solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof.

Application 2: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a solution in a hair composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents. Water is applied in a second step, to form a gel.

Application 3: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or a solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof. After drying, the deposit formed on the hair is removed by application:

- hot water

- an aqueous solution at acidic or basic pH - a solvent or a mixture of several solvents.

The invention can be better understood with the aid of the nonlimiting example which follows and which constitutes a preferred mode of use of the hydrogelified ionic amides.

EXAMPLE:

A gel containing 1% of active material of bromide of 1- (11 - (((1S) -1-ethoxycarbonyl-5 - ((1-oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) - 11 -oxoundecyl) pyridinium is produced.

After application to hair, it has been noted that this gel gives a resistance to humidity greater than that of Carbopol Ultrez 10® marketed by Noveon (crosslinked poly acrylic acid) at 1% by weight m. at..

Claims

1. Use in a cosmetic composition, in aqueous medium or water + solvent, of a non-phosphorous cationic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol and comprising at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound contains at least two sequences - CONH-. 3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chain contains between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably between 8 and 22 carbon atoms. 4.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound is of molecular weight less than lOOOg / mol, and preferably less than 800 g / mol. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is linked directly to the amide group. 6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is linked to the amide group by a carbonyl function. 7.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound contains at least two fatty chains. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is part of an ester group. 9.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening compound is present in the aqueous medium at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 60%, and preferably between 0.25 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition forms a film after drying. 11. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the film is insoluble in pure water at room temperature. 12. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the film is soluble at acidic or alkaline pH.