WO2003035020A1 - Material with drawing ability, cosmetic composition with drawing ability, make-up composition and make-up method - Google Patents
Material with drawing ability, cosmetic composition with drawing ability, make-up composition and make-up method Download PDFInfo
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- WO2003035020A1 WO2003035020A1 PCT/FR2002/003680 FR0203680W WO03035020A1 WO 2003035020 A1 WO2003035020 A1 WO 2003035020A1 FR 0203680 W FR0203680 W FR 0203680W WO 03035020 A1 WO03035020 A1 WO 03035020A1
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- spinable
- surfactants
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a spinnable material, to a cosmetic composition comprising this spinnable material, and to a process for making up keratin materials using the cosmetic composition.
- cosmetics in particular for making up keratin materials such as the skin, hair, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, lips and any other area of the body and face, and in decoration, it is advantageous to have a sufficiently consistent, moldable material with a stringy character which. can be spread and then stretched by hand or using commonly used instruments, such as a brush, comb, spatula or knife.
- a rapid increase in the consistency of the material after its application can be obtained by a transition from the liquid state to the solid state by cooling, but the implementation is difficult in the field of cosmetics.
- this change of state requires the heating of the material at the time of its use and a melting temperature higher than the ambient temperature while remaining sufficiently low to avoid any risk of burning or burning sensation during its application.
- the materials which may have a known stringing character are solutions of more or less gelled surfactants, molten polymers, gels, sol-gels and derivatives of petroleum products such as carbon fibers, but they have drawbacks. such as lack of consistency and breakage of the strands, need for a high deformation speed, a high temperature, a thermal shock to spin and then freeze the strands obtained or a fiber stabilization treatment.
- room temperature is meant a temperature of about 25 ° C.
- spinnable materials The consistency of these spinnable materials is evaluated by measuring the rheological properties in oscillation mode in their linear viscoelastic range. They then have a complex module G * of between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and
- the spinnable material in cosmetics, after application to the hair, eyelashes or eyebrows, has the advantage of not adhering either to itself or to other surfaces and it can be easily removed by washing with water or by using a makeup-removing product such as a lotion based on a solution of surfactants.
- the present invention therefore relates to a spinnable material comprising, at room temperature, at least one mesomorphic phase of direct hexagonal or fluid lamellar type, and at least one crystalline or amorphous solid phase, and / or a mesomorphic phase of cubic or lamellar type.
- gel and having in oscillation mode in its linear viscoelastic range, a complex module G * between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and 10 5 Pa, and a loss angle ⁇ between 0 ° and 45 ° , preferably between 10 ° and 40 °, at 25 ° C and for frequencies ranging from 10 '2 Hz to 1 Hz.
- Another subject of the invention consists of a spinnable cosmetic composition comprising said spinnable material.
- the present invention also relates to a makeup composition.
- the present invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials using the spinnable cosmetic composition.
- the present invention relates to a spinnable material comprising, at ambient temperature,
- phase D By fluid lamellar phase (phase D according to Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. GH Brown) means a liquid crystal phase with plane symmetry, comprising several bilayers of amphiphilic compounds arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water.
- direct hexagonal phase phase F according to Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. GH Brown
- phase F By fluid lamellar phase (phase D according to Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. GH Brown), is meant a liquid crystal phase with hexagonal arrangement of parallel cylinders formed of an amphiphilic compound and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water.
- cubic phase is intended to mean a phase organized bipolarly into distinct hydrophilic and lipophilic domains, in close contact and forming a three-dimensional network with cubic symmetry. Such an organization has been described in particular in "Latation”, Vol. 23, pages 306-315, March 1992 and in "Lipid Technology", Vol. 2, n ° 2, pages 42-45, April 1990. Depending on the arrangement of the hydrophilic and lipophilic domains, the cubic phase is said to be of normal or reverse type.
- the term cubic phase used according to the present invention groups together the different types of cubic phase.
- gel lamellar phase or L ⁇ phase is meant a phase in which the surfactant molecules and / or more generally of amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers spaced apart by aqueous sheets. Within the bimolecular layers, the molecules are distributed according to a hexagonal geometry and their hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline state, they are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation with respect to each other in the plan of these layers (Handbook of lipid research 4, the physical chemistry of lipids from alkanes to phospholipids, DM Small Editor, 1986, Plénum Press, p. 51-56).
- the lamellar gels phases are for example known in the field of hydrated soaps.
- the spinable materials according to the invention are characterized by particular rheological properties in oscillation mode in their linear viscoelastic range. They present a module G * complex between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and 10 5 Pa, a loss angle ⁇ between 0 ° and 45 °, preferably between 10 ° and 40 °, at room temperature and for frequencies ranging from 10 "2 Hz to 1 Hz.
- the term linear viscoelastic domain means the range of stress amplitude ( ⁇ 0 ) defined by 0 ⁇ 0 ⁇ 0 in which the values of G * and ⁇ measured at a fixed frequency, are independent of ⁇ 0 .
- these materials are characterized by the fact that outside the linear viscoelastic range, for which ⁇ > ⁇ oc , for a frequency of 1 Hz, the value of the complex modulus decreases at most by a factor of 10 when the amplitude of the stress goes from ⁇ ow to 10 ⁇ 00 , x oc being determined at the frequency of 1 Hz.
- G * and ⁇ are the viscoelastic parameters used to measure the physical properties of viscoelastic fluids. They were measured using a Haake RS 150 rheometer at 25 ° C with bodies of cone-plane geometry (cone diameter and plane dimension of 35 mm, cone angle of 2 °, and air gap between the cone and the plane of 0, 1 mm).
- the spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises at least water, at least one water-soluble surfactant and at least one water-insoluble surfactant, the surfactants being chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants , and mixtures thereof.
- water-soluble surfactant means a surfactant which, at a concentration of 20 g / l in permuted water at a temperature of 25 ° C., gives a transparent, isotropic solution which is fluid and does not contain particles detectable by optical microscopy.
- the water-soluble surfactants constitute all or part of the mesomorphic phase or phases of the fluid lamellar and / or direct hexagonal type of the material.
- the water-soluble surfactants suitable in the present invention are those well known in the art and are chosen among anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
- the carboxylic acid salts with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, such as the acid salts lauric and myristic acid; and their mixtures.
- the salts are, for example, the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, the ammonia, amino alcohol, or amino acid salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium, triethanolamine, N salts. - methylglucamine, lysine or arginine.
- carboxylic acid salt which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the N-methylglucamine salt of lauric acid and the N-methylglucamine salt of myristic acid.
- water-soluble anionic surfactants suitable for the present invention mention may in particular be made of the salts of ethoxylated carboxylic acids; galacturonates, sarcosinates and acylsarcosinates such as sodium laurylsarcosinate; taurates and methyltaurates; isethionates and acylisethionates such as sodium isethionate and sodium cocoylisethionate; sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates such as sodium or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate, sodium or potassium lauryl ether sulphate; monoalkyl or dialkyl esters of phosphoric acid such as, for example, sodium, potassium or triethanolamine monol
- alkyl and acyl groups of the above compounds have in particular 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic water-soluble surfactants there may be mentioned, as examples, betaines such as dimethylbetaine; sulfobetaines such as cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; the (C 14 -C.) amphoacetates such as cocoamphodiacetate; and their mixtures.
- (C 1 -C 4 alkyl) -trimethylammonium salts such as, for example, chlorides, bromides and acetates of decyltrimethylammonium, dodecyltrimethylammonium, tetradecyltrimethylammonium and hexadecyltrimethylammonium.
- polyol ethers such as oxyethylenated sorbitol or glyceryl ethers; polyglycerol ethers and esters; polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols comprising at least one chain of fatty alcohols having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and the solubility of which depends on the number of oxyethylene units and on the length of the fatty chain. For example, for a fatty chain comprising 12 carbon atoms, the number of oxyethylene units must be greater than 7.
- lauryl alcohol ethers comprising more than 7 oxyethylene units
- alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as decylglucoside, laurylglucoside and cocoylglucoside
- the (C 1. 14) maltosides the (C 1- 4 ⁇ ) -N-methyl glucamides
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters which generally contain from 1 to 100 oxyethylene units and preferably from 2 to 40 oxyethylene units; amino alcohol esters and mixtures thereof.
- the water-soluble C 6 carboxylic acid salts are used as water-soluble surfactants. 14 .
- the spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises the water-soluble surfactants in an amount of 5 to 75% by weight, better still 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
- water-insoluble surfactant is meant a surfactant which, at a concentration of 20 g / l in water deionized at room temperature, gives a cloudy solution indicating the non-solubilization of the surfactant in water.
- Water-insoluble surfactants help provide texture, that is, the consistency of the final material. They constitute all or part of the gel lamellar mesomorphic phase and / or crystalline or amorphous solid phases of the material.
- the water-insoluble surfactants suitable for the present invention are those well known in the art and are chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants and their mixtures.
- anionic surfactants insoluble in water mention may in particular be made of the salts of carboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising from 15 to
- the carboxylic acid salts comprising a fatty chain preferably contain 15 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, while the salts comprising a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated or branched fatty chain preferably contain 16 to 34 carbon atoms, and better still 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the salts are, for example, the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, the ammonia, amino alcohol, or amino acid salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium, triethanolamine, N salts. -methylglucamine, lysine or arginine.
- salt of carboxylic acid is particularly suitable in the present invention
- the sodium salts of fatty acids there may be mentioned C 16 -C 22, potassium salt of fatty acids, C 16 -
- N-methylglucamine salts of C ⁇ 6 -C 22 fatty acids for example, the N-methylglucamine salt of palmitic acid and the N-methylglucamine salt of stearic acid.
- anionic surfactants which are insoluble in water and which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of salts comprising C 16 -C 30 alkyl chains such as alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, dialkylphosphates, for example, metal salts alkaline or amino alcohol, and in particular the sodium, potassium or N-methylglucamine salts, dicetylphosphate or dimyristylphosphate; alkane sulfonates, lipoamino acids and their salts; the alkali metal and amino alcohol salts of cholesterol sulfate or cholesterol phosphate.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant insoluble in water examples betaines and (C 16-30 alkyl) sulphobetaines (alkyl C 16 30.); lecithins and sphingomyelins.
- cationic water-insoluble surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of (C 17 -C 30 alkyl) trimethylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of octadecyltrimethylammonium, and di ( C 12 -C 22 alkyl) dimethylammonium such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of didodecyldimethylammonium, ditetradecyl dimethylammonium, dihexadecyldimethylammonium and dioctadecyldimethylammonium.
- (C 17 -C 30 alkyl) trimethylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of octadecyltrimethylammonium
- di ( C 12 -C 22 alkyl) dimethylammonium such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of didodecyldimethylammonium
- non-ionic water-insoluble surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of glyceryl ethers; esters of glyceryl and of C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate; polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols comprising in particular less than 10 oxyethylene units; alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; the (C 6 30.) glucopyranoside and (C 16 _ 30) thioglucopyranosides; the (C 16 30). maltosides; the (C 16 30).
- the spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises the water-insoluble surfactants in an amount ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
- the spinnable material according to the invention may further comprise additives in an amount up to 75% by weight, preferably in an amount from 0 to 50% relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
- the additives are intended to constitute all or part of the crystalline or amorphous solid phases possibly present in the material.
- Any well-known additive can be used in the art such as inorganic or organic fillers such as clays, such as smectites, modified hectorites or not, eg those sold under the trade names Bentone ® by Rheox, Laponite ® by SOUTHERN CLAY PRODUCTS,
- the spinnable material can comprise solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol; polyols such as glycerin; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose or sucrose; and their mixtures.
- solvents are preferably contained in the spinnable material according to the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
- thickening agents in an amount preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
- thickening agents mention may in particular be made of polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified celluloses; synthetic polymers such as acrylic polymers such as CARBOPOL ® 980 sold by the company Goodrich, acrylate / acrylonitrile such as HYPAN SS201 ® sold by the company KINGSTON, and mixtures thereof.
- the present invention also relates to a spinnable cosmetic composition comprising a spinnable material as described above.
- the cosmetic composition may also comprise adjuvants usually used in the cosmetic field, such as hydrocarbon, fluorinated, silicone oils, volatile or not, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants (for example, the alkali metal salts of the ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)), sun filters, pH stabilizers, preservatives and mixtures.
- adjuvants usually used in the cosmetic field such as hydrocarbon, fluorinated, silicone oils, volatile or not, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants (for example, the alkali metal salts of the ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)), sun filters, pH stabilizers, preservatives and mixtures.
- compositions according to the invention are present in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used as make-up products for keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the scalp, the nails, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the lips and any other area of the body and of the face, in particular for making up the skin (body or face, including the eyelids), scalp, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows, for example as a mascara.
- keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the scalp, the nails, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the lips and any other area of the body and of the face, in particular for making up the skin (body or face, including the eyelids), scalp, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows, for example as a mascara.
- the present invention also relates to a composition for making up the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows comprising the spinnable cosmetic composition such as described above.
- This makeup composition can be, for example, in the form of a mascara.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, which consists in applying the spinnable cosmetic composition as defined above, to the keratin materials and in stretching the composition deposited using his fingers or d '' a suitable instrument such as a comb or brush.
- composition was prepared from the following ingredients:
- the preservatives, EDTA, glycerin, PEG-8 and water were mixed, and the mixture was brought to 80 ° C.
- a second step the mixture containing the fatty acids and the glyceryl stearate was heated, and the mixture was added to the aqueous phase with stirring. Disodium cocoamphodiacetate was then added, followed by N-methylglucamine dissolved in water. Stirring was continued for 10 minutes at 80 ° C and the whole was cooled with stirring.
- Example 2 The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by light microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 1 had a crystalline phase and a fluid lamellar type mesomorphic phase.
- Example 2 The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by light microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 1 had a crystalline phase and a fluid lamellar type mesomorphic phase.
- Example 2 The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by light microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 1 had a crystalline phase and a fluid lamellar type mesomorphic phase.
- composition was prepared from the following ingredients:
- Example 2 The same procedure was followed as that of Example 1. A homogeneous, opaque, white and consistent composition was obtained. The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by optical microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 2 exhibits a mesomorphic phase of the type lamellar gel and a mesomorphic phase of fluid lamellar type.
- Hair samples were made up using an eyelash comb. Each hair test piece consists of a segment of
- each hair tied side by side on a cord over a total length of 5 mm.
- the individual length of each hair is 20 mm and the average diameter is 75 ⁇ m.
- the eyelash comb is of the type used in plastic mascara packaging articles. It includes 27 teeth distributed over a length of 23 mm, each tooth measuring 2 mm.
- test pieces were made up by 5 successive passes of the comb previously dipped in the compositions of Examples 1 and 2.
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Abstract
Description
MATERIAU FILABLE, COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE FILABLE, COMPOSITION DE MAQUILLAGE ET PROCÉDÉ DE SPINNABLE MATERIAL, SPINNABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION, MAKE-UP COMPOSITION AND METHOD OF MAKING
MAQUILLAGEMAKEUP
La présente invention est relative à un matériau filable, à une composition cosmétique comprenant ce matériau filable, et à un procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques mettant en œuvre la composition cosmétique. En cosmétique, notamment pour le maquillage des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les cheveux, les ongles, les cils et sourcils, les lèvres et toute autre zone du corps et du visage, et en décoration, il est intéressant de disposer d'un matériau suffisamment consistant, modelable et présentant un caractère filant qui . puisse être étalé puis étiré à la main ou à l'aide d'instruments habituellement utilisés, comme une brosse, un peigne, une spatule ou un couteau.The present invention relates to a spinnable material, to a cosmetic composition comprising this spinnable material, and to a process for making up keratin materials using the cosmetic composition. In cosmetics, in particular for making up keratin materials such as the skin, hair, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, lips and any other area of the body and face, and in decoration, it is advantageous to have a sufficiently consistent, moldable material with a stringy character which. can be spread and then stretched by hand or using commonly used instruments, such as a brush, comb, spatula or knife.
On cherche à obtenir des fils qui, après étirement, sont suffisamment consistants, c'est-à-dire qu'ils doivent conserver leur forme, ne pas se rétracter, ni s'affaisser sous l'action de leur propre poids, par exemple dans le cas des maquillages de scène, des cheveux ou des cils.We seek to obtain threads which, after stretching, are sufficiently consistent, that is to say that they must retain their shape, not shrink, or sag under the action of their own weight, for example in the case of stage make-up, hair or eyelashes.
Une augmentation rapide de la consistance du matériau après son application peut être obtenue par un passage de l'état liquide à l'état solide par refroidissement, mais la mise en œuvre est difficile dans le domaine de la cosmétique.A rapid increase in the consistency of the material after its application can be obtained by a transition from the liquid state to the solid state by cooling, but the implementation is difficult in the field of cosmetics.
En effet, ce changement d'état nécessite le chauffage du matériau au moment de son utilisation et une température de fusion supérieure à la température ambiante tout en restant suffisamment basse pour éviter tout risque de brûlure ou de sensation de brûlure lors de son application.Indeed, this change of state requires the heating of the material at the time of its use and a melting temperature higher than the ambient temperature while remaining sufficiently low to avoid any risk of burning or burning sensation during its application.
Pour augmenter la consistance, on peut aussi utiliser un ou plusieurs corps chimiques solides à température ambiante, dispersés, solubilisés ou gonflés par des solvants volatils. Ces solvants s'evaporant ensuite, il se produit une augmentation de la concentration des corps chimiques solides. On peut alors obtenir une augmentation suffisante de la consistance. Cette utilisation de solvants organiques présente un inconvénient du fait qu'il faut avoir recours à des solvants inoffensifs, et en cosmétique le solvant préféré est l'eau, mais elle est très peu volatile à température ambiante.To increase the consistency, it is also possible to use one or more chemical bodies that are solid at room temperature, dispersed, solubilized or swollen by volatile solvents. These solvents then evaporate, increasing the concentration of solid chemicals. We can then obtain a sufficient increase in consistency. This use of organic solvents has a drawback in that it is necessary to have recourse to harmless solvents, and in cosmetics the preferred solvent is water, but it is very little volatile at room temperature.
Par ailleurs, les matériaux pouvant présenter un caractère filant connus sont les solutions de tensioactifs plus ou moins gélifiées, les polymères fondus, les gels, les sol-gels et les dérivés de produits pétroliers tels que les fibres de carbone, mais ils présentent des inconvénients tels que manque de consistance et rupture des fils, nécessité d'une vitesse de déformation élevée, d'une température élevée, d'un choc thermique pour filer puis figer les fils obtenus ou d'un traitement de stabilisation des fibres.Furthermore, the materials which may have a known stringing character are solutions of more or less gelled surfactants, molten polymers, gels, sol-gels and derivatives of petroleum products such as carbon fibers, but they have drawbacks. such as lack of consistency and breakage of the strands, need for a high deformation speed, a high temperature, a thermal shock to spin and then freeze the strands obtained or a fiber stabilization treatment.
La demanderesse a trouvé de manière surprenante que certains matériaux comportant une certaine organisation de phases étaient consistants et modelables à température ambiante, et permettaient de former des fils par simple étirement à la main ou à l'aide d'un instrument tel qu'une brosse, un peigne, une spatule ou un couteau. Ces matériaux filables comprennent, à température ambiante, 1) au moins une phase mésomorphe de type hexagonal direct ou lamellaire fluide, et 2) au moins une phase solide cristalline ou amorphe, et/ou une phase mésomorphe de type cubique ou lamellaire gel.The Applicant has surprisingly found that certain materials comprising a certain organization of phases were consistent and moldable at room temperature, and made it possible to form threads by simple stretching by hand or using an instrument such as a brush. , a comb, a spatula or a knife. These spinnable materials comprise, at ambient temperature, 1) at least one mesomorphic phase of direct hexagonal or fluid lamellar type, and 2) at least one crystalline or amorphous solid phase, and / or a mesomorphic phase of cubic or lamellar gel type.
Par "température ambiante", on entend une température d'environ 25 °C.By "room temperature" is meant a temperature of about 25 ° C.
La consistance de ces matériaux filables est évaluée par la mesure des propriétés rhéologiques en mode oscillations dans leur domaine viscoélastique linéaire. Ils présentent alors un module complexe G* compris entre 102 et 106 Pa, de préférence entre 103 etThe consistency of these spinnable materials is evaluated by measuring the rheological properties in oscillation mode in their linear viscoelastic range. They then have a complex module G * of between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and
105 Pa, et un angle de perte δ compris entre 0° et 45°, de préférence entre 10° et 40°, à 25 °C et pour des fréquences allant de 10'2 Hz à 1 Hz.10 5 Pa, and a loss angle δ of between 0 ° and 45 °, preferably between 10 ° and 40 °, at 25 ° C and for frequencies ranging from 10 '2 Hz to 1 Hz.
En outre, en cosmétique, après application sur les cheveux, les cils ou les sourcils, le matériau filable présente l'avantage de n'adhérer ni sur lui-même, ni sur d'autres surfaces et il peut être facilement éliminé par lavage à l'eau ou par utilisation d'un produit démaquillant tel qu'une lotion à base d'une solution de tensioactifs.In addition, in cosmetics, after application to the hair, eyelashes or eyebrows, the spinnable material has the advantage of not adhering either to itself or to other surfaces and it can be easily removed by washing with water or by using a makeup-removing product such as a lotion based on a solution of surfactants.
La présente invention a donc pour objet un matériau filable comportant, à température ambiante, au moins une phase mésomorphe de type hexagonale directe ou lamellaire fluide, et au moins une phase solide cristalline ou amorphe, et/ou une phase mésomorphe de type cubique ou lamellaire gel, et présentant en mode oscillations dans son domaine viscoélastique linéaire, un module complexe G* compris entre 102 et 106 Pa, de préférence entre 103 et 105 Pa, et un angle de perte δ compris entre 0° et 45°, de préférence entre 10° et 40°, à 25 °C et pour des fréquences allant de 10'2 Hz à 1 Hz.The present invention therefore relates to a spinnable material comprising, at room temperature, at least one mesomorphic phase of direct hexagonal or fluid lamellar type, and at least one crystalline or amorphous solid phase, and / or a mesomorphic phase of cubic or lamellar type. gel, and having in oscillation mode in its linear viscoelastic range, a complex module G * between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and 10 5 Pa, and a loss angle δ between 0 ° and 45 ° , preferably between 10 ° and 40 °, at 25 ° C and for frequencies ranging from 10 '2 Hz to 1 Hz.
Un autre objet de l'invention consiste en une composition cosmétique filable comprenant ledit matériau filable.Another subject of the invention consists of a spinnable cosmetic composition comprising said spinnable material.
La présente invention a également pour objet une composition de maquillage.The present invention also relates to a makeup composition.
La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques mettant en œuvre la composition cosmétique filable.The present invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials using the spinnable cosmetic composition.
D'autres objets, caractéristiques, aspects et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore plus clairement à la lecture, de la description et des divers exemples qui suivent.Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.
La présente invention concerne un matériau filable comportant, à température ambiante,The present invention relates to a spinnable material comprising, at ambient temperature,
1) au moins une phase mésomorphe de type lamellaire fluide ou hexagonal direct, et1) at least one mesomorphic phase of fluid lamellar or direct hexagonal type, and
2) au moins une phase solide cristalline, solide amorphe et/ou une phase mésomorphe de type lamellaire gel ou cubique.2) at least one crystalline solid phase, amorphous solid and / or a mesomorphic phase of gel or cubic lamellar type.
Par phase lamellaire fluide (phase D selon Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. G. H. Brown), on entend une phase cristal liquide à symétrie plane, comprenant plusieurs bicouches de composés amphiphiles disposées en parallèle et séparées par un milieu liquide qui est généralement de l'eau. Par phase hexagonale directe (phase F selon Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. G. H. Brown), on entend une phase cristal liquide à arrangement hexagonal de cylindres parallèles constitués d'un composé amphiphile et séparés par un milieu liquide qui est généralement de l'eau. Par phase cubique, on entend une phase organisée de manière bipolaire en domaines hydrophile et lipophile distincts, en contact étroit et formant un réseau tridimensionnel à symétrie cubique. Une telle organisation a été notamment décrite dans "La Recherche", Vol. 23, pages 306-315, mars 1992 et dans "Lipid Technology", Vol. 2, n° 2, pages 42-45, avril 1990. Selon l'arrangement des domaines hydrophile et lipophile, la phase cubique est dite de type normal ou inverse. Le terme de phase cubique utilisé selon la présente invention regroupe les différents types de phase cubique.By fluid lamellar phase (phase D according to Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. GH Brown) means a liquid crystal phase with plane symmetry, comprising several bilayers of amphiphilic compounds arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water. By direct hexagonal phase (phase F according to Ek all, Advances in Liquid Crystals, vol. 1, pages 1-143, Acad. Press, 1975, Ed. GH Brown), is meant a liquid crystal phase with hexagonal arrangement of parallel cylinders formed of an amphiphilic compound and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water. The term “cubic phase” is intended to mean a phase organized bipolarly into distinct hydrophilic and lipophilic domains, in close contact and forming a three-dimensional network with cubic symmetry. Such an organization has been described in particular in "La Recherche", Vol. 23, pages 306-315, March 1992 and in "Lipid Technology", Vol. 2, n ° 2, pages 42-45, April 1990. Depending on the arrangement of the hydrophilic and lipophilic domains, the cubic phase is said to be of normal or reverse type. The term cubic phase used according to the present invention groups together the different types of cubic phase.
Par phase lamellaire gel ou phase Lβ, on entend une phase dans laquelle les molécules de tensioactifs et/ou plus généralement de composés amphiphiles s'organisent sous forme de couches bimoléculaires espacées par des feuillets aqueux. Au sein des couches bimoléculaires, les molécules sont réparties selon une géométrie hexagonale et leurs chaînes hydrocarbonées sont dans un état cristallin, elles sont orientées perpendiculairement au plan des couches bimoléculaires mais n'ont pas d'orientation spécifique les unes par rapport aux autres dans le plan de ces couches (Handbook of lipid research 4, the physical chemistry of lipids from alkanes to phospholipids, D. M. Small Editor, 1986, Plénum Press, p. 51-56). Les phases lamellaires gels sont par exemple connues dans le domaine des savons hydratés.By gel lamellar phase or Lβ phase is meant a phase in which the surfactant molecules and / or more generally of amphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layers spaced apart by aqueous sheets. Within the bimolecular layers, the molecules are distributed according to a hexagonal geometry and their hydrocarbon chains are in a crystalline state, they are oriented perpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have no specific orientation with respect to each other in the plan of these layers (Handbook of lipid research 4, the physical chemistry of lipids from alkanes to phospholipids, DM Small Editor, 1986, Plénum Press, p. 51-56). The lamellar gels phases are for example known in the field of hydrated soaps.
Les matériaux filables selon l'invention sont caractérisés par des propriétés rhéologiques particulières en mode oscillations dans leur domaine viscoélastique linéaire. Ils présentent un module complexe G* compris entre 102 et 106 Pa, de préférence entre 103 et 105 Pa, un angle de perte δ compris entre 0° et 45°, de préférence entre 10° et 40°, à température ambiante et pour des fréquences allant de 10"2 Hz à 1 Hz. On entend par domaine viscoélastique linéaire, la plage d'amplitude de contrainte (τ0) définie par 0 < τ0 ≤τ0 dans laquelle les valeurs de G* et δ mesurées à une fréquence fixe, sont indépendantes de τ0.The spinable materials according to the invention are characterized by particular rheological properties in oscillation mode in their linear viscoelastic range. They present a module G * complex between 10 2 and 10 6 Pa, preferably between 10 3 and 10 5 Pa, a loss angle δ between 0 ° and 45 °, preferably between 10 ° and 40 °, at room temperature and for frequencies ranging from 10 "2 Hz to 1 Hz. The term linear viscoelastic domain means the range of stress amplitude (τ 0 ) defined by 0 <τ 0 ≤τ 0 in which the values of G * and δ measured at a fixed frequency, are independent of τ 0 .
En outre, ces matériaux sont caractérisés par le fait qu'en dehors du domaine viscoélastique linéaire, pour lequel τ > τoc, pour une fréquence de 1 Hz, la valeur du module complexe diminue au plus d'un facteur 10 lorsque l'amplitude de la contrainte passe de τoe à 10 τ00,xoc étant déterminé à la fréquence de 1 Hz.In addition, these materials are characterized by the fact that outside the linear viscoelastic range, for which τ> τ oc , for a frequency of 1 Hz, the value of the complex modulus decreases at most by a factor of 10 when the amplitude of the stress goes from τ ow to 10 τ 00 , x oc being determined at the frequency of 1 Hz.
G* et δ sont les paramètres viscoélastiques utilisés pour mesurer les propriétés physiques des fluides viscoélastiques. Ils ont été mesurés au moyen d'un rhéomètre Haake RS 150 à 25 °C avec des corps de géométrie cône-plan (diamètre du cône et dimension du plan de 35 mm, angle du cône de 2°, et entrefer entre le cône et le plan de 0, 1 mm). Le matériau filable selon l'invention comprend de préférence au moins de l'eau, au moins un tensioactif hydrosoluble et au moins un tensioactif insoluble dans l'eau, les tensioactifs étant choisis parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères ou zwittérioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, et leurs mélanges. Par tensioactif hydrosoluble, on entend un tensioactif qui, à une concentration de 20 g/1 dans l'eau permutée à une température de 25 °C, donne une solution isotrope transparente, fluide et ne contenant pas de particules détectables en microscopie optique.G * and δ are the viscoelastic parameters used to measure the physical properties of viscoelastic fluids. They were measured using a Haake RS 150 rheometer at 25 ° C with bodies of cone-plane geometry (cone diameter and plane dimension of 35 mm, cone angle of 2 °, and air gap between the cone and the plane of 0, 1 mm). The spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises at least water, at least one water-soluble surfactant and at least one water-insoluble surfactant, the surfactants being chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants , and mixtures thereof. The term “water-soluble surfactant” means a surfactant which, at a concentration of 20 g / l in permuted water at a temperature of 25 ° C., gives a transparent, isotropic solution which is fluid and does not contain particles detectable by optical microscopy.
Les tensioactifs hydrosolubles constituent tout ou partie de la ou des phases mésomorphes du type lamellaire fluide et/ou hexagonal direct du matériau.The water-soluble surfactants constitute all or part of the mesomorphic phase or phases of the fluid lamellar and / or direct hexagonal type of the material.
Les tensioactifs hydrosolubles convenant dans la présente invention sont ceux bien connus dans la technique et sont choisis parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères ou zwittérioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, et leurs mélanges.The water-soluble surfactants suitable in the present invention are those well known in the art and are chosen among anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Comme tensioactifs anioniques hydrosolubles, on peut utiliser les sels d'acides carboxyliques à chaîne alkyle linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée, comportant de 6 à 14 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 10 à 14 atomes de carbone, comme les sels d'acide laurique et d'acide myristique ; et leurs mélanges. Les sels sont, par exemple, les sels de métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux, les sels d'ammoniaque, d'aminoalcool, ou d'aminoacide, tels que les sels de sodium, de potassium, de magnésium, de triéthanolamine, de N- méthylglucamine, de lysine ou d'arginine.As water-soluble anionic surfactants, it is possible to use the carboxylic acid salts with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, such as the acid salts lauric and myristic acid; and their mixtures. The salts are, for example, the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, the ammonia, amino alcohol, or amino acid salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium, triethanolamine, N salts. - methylglucamine, lysine or arginine.
Comme sel d'acide carboxylique utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut notamment citer le sel de N-méthylglucamine de l'acide laurique et le sel de N-méthylglucamine de l'acide myristique. Comme autres tensioactifs anioniques hydrosolubles convenant dans la présente invention, on peut notamment citer les sels d'acides carboxyliques éthoxylés ; les galacturonates, les sarcosinates et acylsarcosinates tels que le laurylsarcosinate de sodium ; les taurates et méthyltaurates ; les iséthionates et acyliséthionates tels que l'iséthionate de sodium et le cocoyliséthionate de sodium ; les sulfosuccinates ; les alkylsulfates et alkyléthersulfates comme le laurylsulfate de sodium ou de triéthanolamine, le lauryléthersulfate de sodium ou de potassium ; les esters monoalkyliques ou dialkyliques d'acide phosphorique tels que, par exemple, le monolauryl- ou dilaurylphosphate de sodium, de potassium ou de triéthanolamine, le myristylphosphate de sodium, de potassium ou de diéthanolamine ; les alcane-sulfonates ; les sels biliaires tels que les cholates, déoxycholates, taurocholates, taurodéoxycholates ; les lipoaminoacides et leurs sels tels que les acylglutamates mono- ou disodiques ; les acylalginates, les acylaspartates, les tensioactifs géminés, bipolaires tels que ceux décrits dans Surfactant Science Séries, Vol. 74, édité par Krister Homberg. Les groupes alkyle et acyle des composés ci-dessus comportent notamment 1 à 14 atomes de carbone. A titre de tensioactifs hydrosolubles amphotères ou zwitterioniques, on peut citer, comme exemples, les betaïnes telles que la diméthylbétaïne ; les sulfobétaïnes telles que la cocoamidopropyl- hydroxysultaïne ; les (alkyl en Cj.14)amphoacétates tels que le cocoamphodiacétate ; et leurs mélanges.As the carboxylic acid salt which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the N-methylglucamine salt of lauric acid and the N-methylglucamine salt of myristic acid. As other water-soluble anionic surfactants suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the salts of ethoxylated carboxylic acids; galacturonates, sarcosinates and acylsarcosinates such as sodium laurylsarcosinate; taurates and methyltaurates; isethionates and acylisethionates such as sodium isethionate and sodium cocoylisethionate; sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates such as sodium or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate, sodium or potassium lauryl ether sulphate; monoalkyl or dialkyl esters of phosphoric acid such as, for example, sodium, potassium or triethanolamine monolauryl- or dilaurylphosphate, sodium, potassium or diethanolamine myristylphosphate; alkane sulfonates; bile salts such as cholates, deoxycholates, taurocholates, taurodeoxycholates; lipoamino acids and their salts such as mono- or disodium acylglutamates; acylalginates, acylaspartates, twin, bipolar surfactants such as those described in Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 74, edited by Krister Homberg. The alkyl and acyl groups of the above compounds have in particular 1 to 14 carbon atoms. As amphoteric or zwitterionic water-soluble surfactants, there may be mentioned, as examples, betaines such as dimethylbetaine; sulfobetaines such as cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; the (C 14 -C.) amphoacetates such as cocoamphodiacetate; and their mixtures.
Comme tensioactifs cationiques hydrosolubles, on peut utiliser dans la présente invention, des sels de (alkyl en C,.^)- triméthylammonium tels que, par exemple, les chlorures, les bromures et acétates de décyltriméthylammonium, dodécyltriméthylammonium, tétradécyltriméthylammonium et hexadécyltriméthylammonium.As water-soluble cationic surfactants, it is possible to use in the present invention, (C 1 -C 4 alkyl) -trimethylammonium salts such as, for example, chlorides, bromides and acetates of decyltrimethylammonium, dodecyltrimethylammonium, tetradecyltrimethylammonium and hexadecyltrimethylammonium.
Comme tensioactifs non ioniques hydrosolubles, on peut utiliser, par exemple, les éthers de polyols tels que les éthers de sorbitol ou de glycéryle oxyéthylénés ; les éthers et esters de polyglycerol ; les éthers polyoxyethylénés d'alcools gras comportant au moins une chaîne d'alcools gras ayant de 10 à 22 atomes de carbone et dont la solubilité dépend du nombre de motifs oxyéthylène et de la longueur de la chaîne grasse. Par exemple, pour une chaîne grasse comportant 12 atomes de carbone, le nombre de motifs oxyéthylène doit être supérieur à 7. A titre d'exemples, on peut notamment citer les éthers d'alcool laurylique comportant plus de 7 motifs oxyéthylène ; les alkylpolyglucosides dont le groupe alkyle comporte de 1 à 14 atomes de carbone, tels que le décylglucoside, le laurylglucoside et le cocoylglucoside ; les (alkyl en C!.14)glucopyranosides et les (alkyl en C1-14)thioglucopyranosides ; les (alkyl en C1.14)maltosides ; les (alkyl en C1-ι4)-N-méthylglucamides ; les esters de sorbitan polyoxyethylénés qui comportent généralement de 1 à 100 motifs oxyéthylène et de préférence de 2 à 40 motifs oxyéthylène ; les esters d'aminoalcool et leurs mélanges.As water-soluble nonionic surfactants, it is possible to use, for example, polyol ethers such as oxyethylenated sorbitol or glyceryl ethers; polyglycerol ethers and esters; polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols comprising at least one chain of fatty alcohols having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and the solubility of which depends on the number of oxyethylene units and on the length of the fatty chain. For example, for a fatty chain comprising 12 carbon atoms, the number of oxyethylene units must be greater than 7. By way of example, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol ethers comprising more than 7 oxyethylene units; alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as decylglucoside, laurylglucoside and cocoylglucoside; the (C 14!.) glucopyranoside and (C 1-14) thioglucopyranosides; the (C 1. 14) maltosides; the (C 1- 4 ι) -N-methyl glucamides; polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters which generally contain from 1 to 100 oxyethylene units and preferably from 2 to 40 oxyethylene units; amino alcohol esters and mixtures thereof.
De préférence, on utilise comme tensioactifs hydrosolubles les sels d'acides carboxyliques en C6.14.Preferably, the water-soluble C 6 carboxylic acid salts are used as water-soluble surfactants. 14 .
Le matériau filable selon l'invention comprend de préférence les tensioactifs hydrosolubles en une quantité de 5 à 75 % en poids, mieux encore 10 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total du matériau filable. Par tensioactif insoluble dans l'eau, on entend un tensioactif qui, à une concentration de 20 g/1 dans l'eau permutée à une température ambiante, donne une solution trouble indiquant la non solubilisation du tensioactif dans l'eau. Les tensioactifs insolubles dans l'eau contribuent à apporter la texture, c'est-à-dire la consistance du matériau final. Ils constituent tout ou partie de la phase mésomorphe lamellaire gel et/ou des phases solides cristallines ou amorphes du matériau.The spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises the water-soluble surfactants in an amount of 5 to 75% by weight, better still 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material. By water-insoluble surfactant is meant a surfactant which, at a concentration of 20 g / l in water deionized at room temperature, gives a cloudy solution indicating the non-solubilization of the surfactant in water. Water-insoluble surfactants help provide texture, that is, the consistency of the final material. They constitute all or part of the gel lamellar mesomorphic phase and / or crystalline or amorphous solid phases of the material.
Les tensioactifs insolubles dans l'eau convenant dans la présente invention sont ceux bien connus dans la technique et sont choisis parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères ou zwitterioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, et leurs mélanges.The water-insoluble surfactants suitable for the present invention are those well known in the art and are chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants and their mixtures.
Comme tensioactifs anioniques insolubles dans l'eau, on peut notamment citer les sels d'acides carboxyliques comportant une chaîne alkyle linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée, comportant de 15 àAs anionic surfactants insoluble in water, mention may in particular be made of the salts of carboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising from 15 to
34 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone, comme les sels d'acide palmitique ou stéarique ; et leurs mélanges. Les sels d'acide carboxylique comportant une chaîne grasse comportent de préférence 15 à 32 atomes de carbone, mieux encore de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone, tandis que les sels comportant une chaîne grasse mono- insaturée ou polyinsaturée ou ramifiée, comportent de préférence de 16 à 34 atomes de carbone, et mieux encore de 18 à 24 atomes de carbone. Le sels sont, par exemple, les sels de métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux, les sels d'ammoniaque, d'aminoalcool, ou d'aminoacide, tels que les sels de sodium, de potassium, de magnésium, de triéthanolamine, de N-méthylglucamine, de lysine ou d'arginine.34 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the salts of palmitic or stearic acid; and their mixtures. The carboxylic acid salts comprising a fatty chain preferably contain 15 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, while the salts comprising a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated or branched fatty chain preferably contain 16 to 34 carbon atoms, and better still 18 to 24 carbon atoms. The salts are, for example, the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, the ammonia, amino alcohol, or amino acid salts, such as the sodium, potassium, magnesium, triethanolamine, N salts. -methylglucamine, lysine or arginine.
Comme sel d'acide carboxylique convenant particulièrement dans la présente invention, on peut notamment citer les sels de sodium des acides gras en C16-C22, le sel de potassium des acides gras en C16-As salt of carboxylic acid is particularly suitable in the present invention, the sodium salts of fatty acids there may be mentioned C 16 -C 22, potassium salt of fatty acids, C 16 -
C22, les sels de N-méthylglucamine des acides gras en Cι6-C22, par exemple, le sel de N-méthylglucamine de l'acide palmitique et le sel de N-méthylglucamine de l'acide stéarique. Comme autres tensioactifs anioniques insolubles dans l'eau et utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut notamment citer les sels comportant des chaînes alkyle en C16-C30 tels que les alkylsulfates, les alkyléthersulfates, les dialkylphosphates, par exemple, les sels de métal alcalin ou d'aminoalcool, et en particulier les sels de sodium, de potassium ou de N-métylglucamine, du dicetylphosphate ou du dimyristylphosphate ; les alcane-sulfonates, les lipoaminoacides et leurs sels ; les sels de métal alcalin et d'aminoalcool du cholestérol- sulfate ou du cholestérol-phosphate. A titre de tensioactifs amphotères ou zwitterioniques insolubles dans l'eau, on peut citer comme exemples les (alkyl C16.30)bétaïnes et les (alkyl C16-30)sulfobétaïnes ; les lécithines et les sphingomyélines.C 22 , the N-methylglucamine salts of Cι 6 -C 22 fatty acids, for example, the N-methylglucamine salt of palmitic acid and the N-methylglucamine salt of stearic acid. As other anionic surfactants which are insoluble in water and which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of salts comprising C 16 -C 30 alkyl chains such as alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, dialkylphosphates, for example, metal salts alkaline or amino alcohol, and in particular the sodium, potassium or N-methylglucamine salts, dicetylphosphate or dimyristylphosphate; alkane sulfonates, lipoamino acids and their salts; the alkali metal and amino alcohol salts of cholesterol sulfate or cholesterol phosphate. As amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant insoluble in water, Examples betaines and (C 16-30 alkyl) sulphobetaines (alkyl C 16 30.); lecithins and sphingomyelins.
Comme tensioactifs cationiques insolubles dans l'eau utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut notamment citer les sels de (alkyl en C17-C30)triméthylammonium tels que les chlorures, les bromures et acétates d'octadécyltriméthylammonium, et les sels de di(alkyl en C12-C22)diméthylammonium tels que les chlorures, les bromures et acétates de didodécyldiméthylammonium, de ditétradécyl- diméthylammonium, de dihexadécyldiméthylammonium et de dioctadécyldiméthylammonium.As cationic water-insoluble surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of (C 17 -C 30 alkyl) trimethylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of octadecyltrimethylammonium, and di ( C 12 -C 22 alkyl) dimethylammonium such as chlorides, bromides and acetates of didodecyldimethylammonium, ditetradecyl dimethylammonium, dihexadecyldimethylammonium and dioctadecyldimethylammonium.
Comme tensioactifs non ioniques insolubles dans l'eau utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut citer les éthers de glycéryle ; les esters de glycéryle et d'acides gras en C14-C30, tels que le stéarate de glycéryle ; les éthers polyoxyethylénés d'alcools gras comportant en particulier moins de 10 motifs oxyéthylène ; les alkylpolyglucosides dont le groupe alkyle comporte de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone ; les (alkyl en C,6.30)glucopyranosides et les (alkyl en C16_30)thioglucopyranosides ; les (alkyl en C16.30)maltosides ; les (alkyl en C16.30)méthylglucamides ; les esters de sorbitan polyoxyethylénés ; les esters d'aminoalcool ; les stérols et phytostérols éventuellement oxyéthylénés ; les céramides ; les alcools gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone ; les éthers et esters d'alcools gras en Cι6.30 ; et leurs mélanges. Le matériau filable selon l'invention comprend de préférence les tensioactifs insolubles dans l'eau en une quantité allant de 5 à 90 % en poids, mieux encore de 10 à 60 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du matériau filable. Le matériau filable selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre des additifs en une quantité allant jusqu'à 75 % en poids, de préférence en une quantité de 0 à 50 % par rapport au poids total du matériau filable.As non-ionic water-insoluble surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of glyceryl ethers; esters of glyceryl and of C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate; polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols comprising in particular less than 10 oxyethylene units; alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; the (C 6 30.) glucopyranoside and (C 16 _ 30) thioglucopyranosides; the (C 16 30). maltosides; the (C 16 30). methylglucamides; polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters; amino alcohol esters; optionally oxyethylenated sterols and phytosterols; ceramides; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; ethers and esters of fatty alcohols in Cι 6 . 30 ; and their mixtures. The spinnable material according to the invention preferably comprises the water-insoluble surfactants in an amount ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the spinnable material. The spinnable material according to the invention may further comprise additives in an amount up to 75% by weight, preferably in an amount from 0 to 50% relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
Les additifs sont destinés à constituer tout ou partie des phases solides cristallines ou amorphes éventuellement présentes dans le matériau. On peut utiliser tout additif bien connu dans la technique telle que des charges minérales ou organiques comme les argiles, par exemple, les smectites, les hectorites modifiées ou non, par exemple celles vendues sous les noms commerciaux BENTONE® par la société RHEOX, LAPONITE® par la société SOUTHERN CLAY PRODUCTS,The additives are intended to constitute all or part of the crystalline or amorphous solid phases possibly present in the material. Any well-known additive can be used in the art such as inorganic or organic fillers such as clays, such as smectites, modified hectorites or not, eg those sold under the trade names Bentone ® by Rheox, Laponite ® by SOUTHERN CLAY PRODUCTS,
VEEGUM® HS par la société RT VANDERBILT ; des pigments, des nacres, des colorants, des poudres de silice, du talc, de l'amidon, du polyéthylène, des poudres ou fibres de rayonne, de nylon ou de polyamide. Le matériau filable peut comprendre des solvants choisis parmi les alcools inférieurs comportant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone tels que l'éthanol ; les polyols tels que la glycérine ; les glycols tels que le butylèneglycol, l'isoprèneglycol, le propylèneglycol, les polyéthylèneglycols tels que le PEG-8 ; le sorbitol ; les sucres tels que le glucose, le fructose, le maltose, le lactose ou le saccharose ; et leurs mélanges.VEEGUM ® HS by RT VANDERBILT; pigments, nacres, dyes, silica powders, talc, starch, polyethylene, powders or fibers of rayon, nylon or polyamide. The spinnable material can comprise solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol; polyols such as glycerin; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose or sucrose; and their mixtures.
Ces solvants sont de préférence contenus dans le matériau filable selon l'invention en une quantité de 0,5 à 90 % en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total du matériau filable.These solvents are preferably contained in the spinnable material according to the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material.
Pour obtenir des matériaux plus ou moins fluides, on peut également introduire dans le matériau un ou plusieurs agents épaississants en une quantité allant de préférence de 0,05 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total du matériau filable. Comme agents épaississants, on peut notamment citer les biopolymères polysaccharidiques comme la gomme de xanthane, la gomme de guar, les alginates et les celluloses modifiées ; les polymères synthétiques tels que les polymères acryliques comme le CARBOPOL® 980 commercialisé par la société GOODRICH, les copolymères acrylate/acrylonitrile tels que le HYPAN® SS201 commercialisé par la société KINGSTON, et leurs mélanges.To obtain more or less fluid materials, it is also possible to introduce into the material one or more thickening agents in an amount preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the spinnable material. As thickening agents, mention may in particular be made of polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified celluloses; synthetic polymers such as acrylic polymers such as CARBOPOL ® 980 sold by the company Goodrich, acrylate / acrylonitrile such as HYPAN SS201 ® sold by the company KINGSTON, and mixtures thereof.
La présente invention concerne aussi une composition cosmétique filable comprenant un matériau filable tel que décrit ci- dessus.The present invention also relates to a spinnable cosmetic composition comprising a spinnable material as described above.
La composition cosmétique peut comprendre en outre des adjuvants habituellement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique, tels que les huiles hydrocarbonées, fluorées, siliconées, volatiles ou non, les parfums, les conservateurs, les séquestrants (par exemple, les sels de métal alcalin de l'acide éthylène-diamine-tétraacétique (EDTA)), les filtres solaires, les agents de stabilisation du pH, les conservateurs et leurs mélanges.The cosmetic composition may also comprise adjuvants usually used in the cosmetic field, such as hydrocarbon, fluorinated, silicone oils, volatile or not, perfumes, preservatives, sequestrants (for example, the alkali metal salts of the ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)), sun filters, pH stabilizers, preservatives and mixtures.
L'homme de métier veillera à choisir les éventuels adjuvants et leur quantité de manière à ce qu'ils ne nuisent pas aux propriétés des compositions de la présente invention.Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any adjuvants and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
Ces adjuvants sont présents dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité allant de 0 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.These adjuvants are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent être utilisées comme produits de maquillage des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les cheveux, le cuir chevelu, les ongles, les cils et sourcils, les lèvres et toute autre zone du corps et du visage, notamment pour le maquillage de la peau (corps ou visage, y compris les paupières), du cuir chevelu, des cheveux, des cils ou des sourcils, par exemple comme mascara.The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used as make-up products for keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the scalp, the nails, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the lips and any other area of the body and of the face, in particular for making up the skin (body or face, including the eyelids), scalp, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows, for example as a mascara.
La présente invention concerne aussi une composition de maquillage de la peau, du cuir chevelu, des cheveux, des cils ou des sourcils comprenant la composition cosmétique filable telle que décrite ci-dessus. Cette composition de maquillage peut se présenter, par exemple, sous la forme d'un mascara.The present invention also relates to a composition for making up the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows comprising the spinnable cosmetic composition such as described above. This makeup composition can be, for example, in the form of a mascara.
La présente invention a également pour objet un procédé cosmétique de maquillage des matières kératiniques, qui consiste à appliquer la composition cosmétique filable telle que définie ci- dessus, sur les matières kératiniques et à étirer la composition déposée à l'aide de ses doigts ou d'un instrument approprié tel qu'un peigne ou une brosse.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, which consists in applying the spinnable cosmetic composition as defined above, to the keratin materials and in stretching the composition deposited using his fingers or d '' a suitable instrument such as a comb or brush.
Les exemples suivants illustrent la présente invention et ne doivent être considérés en aucune manière comme limitant l'invention.The following examples illustrate the present invention and should not be considered in any way as limiting the invention.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
Les quantités indiquées en % sont en % en poids sauf indication contraire.The quantities indicated in% are in% by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple 1Example 1
On a préparé une composition à partir des ingrédients suivants: A composition was prepared from the following ingredients:
Acide laurique 3 %Lauric acid 3%
Acide myristique 6 %Myristic acid 6%
Acide palmitique 10 %Palmitic acid 10%
Acide isostéarique 10 %Isostearic acid 10%
Stéarate de glycéryle 5 %Glyceryl stearate 5%
N-méthylglucamine 14,9 %N-methylglucamine 14.9%
Cocoamphodiacétate disodique 2 %Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 2%
PEG-8 3 %PEG-8 3%
Glycérine 7 %Glycerin 7%
EDTA tétrasodique 0,2 %0.2% tetrasodium EDTA
Conservateurs 0,4 %Preservatives 0.4%
Eau qsp 100 %Water qs 100%
Dans un premier temps, on a mélangé les conservateurs, l'EDTA, la glycérine, le PEG-8 et l'eau, et on a porté le mélange à 80 °C.First, the preservatives, EDTA, glycerin, PEG-8 and water were mixed, and the mixture was brought to 80 ° C.
Dans un deuxième temps, on a chauffé le mélange contenant les acides gras et le stéarate de glycéryle, et on a ajouté le mélange à la phase aqueuse sous agitation. On a ensuite ajouté le cocoamphodiacétate disodique, puis la N-méthylglucamine solubilisée dans de l'eau. On a maintenu l'agitation pendant 10 minutes à 80 °C et on a refroidi l'ensemble sous agitation.In a second step, the mixture containing the fatty acids and the glyceryl stearate was heated, and the mixture was added to the aqueous phase with stirring. Disodium cocoamphodiacetate was then added, followed by N-methylglucamine dissolved in water. Stirring was continued for 10 minutes at 80 ° C and the whole was cooled with stirring.
On a obtenu une composition homogène, opaque, légèrement jaunâtre et consistante.A homogeneous, opaque, slightly yellowish and consistent composition was obtained.
On a ensuite déterminé la nature des phases cristallines en présence à 25 °C, par des observations par microscopie optique et par une analyse par diffraction des rayons X. On a alors trouvé que la composition de l'exemple 1 présente une phase cristalline et une phase mésomorphe de type lamellaire fluide. Exemple 2The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by light microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 1 had a crystalline phase and a fluid lamellar type mesomorphic phase. Example 2
On a préparé une composition à partir des ingrédients suivants:A composition was prepared from the following ingredients:
Acide laurique 6 %Lauric acid 6%
Acide myristique 6 %Myristic acid 6%
Acide palmitique 6,5 %Palmitic acid 6.5%
Acide isostéarique 6,5 %Isostearic acid 6.5%
Stéarate de glycéryle 2,75 %Glyceryl stearate 2.75%
N-méthylglucamine 16,3 %N-methylglucamine 16.3%
Cocoamphodiacétate disodique 4 %Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 4%
PEG-8 4 %PEG-8 4%
Glycérine 4 %Glycerin 4%
EDTA tétrasodique 0,2 %0.2% tetrasodium EDTA
Conservateurs 0,4 %Preservatives 0.4%
Eau qsp 100 %Water qs 100%
On a suivi le même mode opératoire que celui de l'exemple 1. On a obtenu une composition homogène, opaque, blanche et consistante. On a ensuite déterminé la nature des phases cristallines en présence à 25 °C, par des observations par microscopie optique et par une analyse par diffraction des rayons X. On a alors trouvé que la composition de l'exemple 2 présente une phase mésomorphe de type lamellaire gel et une phase mésomorphe de type lamellaire fluide.The same procedure was followed as that of Example 1. A homogeneous, opaque, white and consistent composition was obtained. The nature of the crystalline phases present at 25 ° C. was then determined by observations by optical microscopy and by X-ray diffraction analysis. It was then found that the composition of Example 2 exhibits a mesomorphic phase of the type lamellar gel and a mesomorphic phase of fluid lamellar type.
Comportement rhéologique des compositions des exemples 1 et 2Rheological behavior of the compositions of Examples 1 and 2
On a réalisé des mesures du module complexe et de l'angle de perte pour des fréquences de 10"2 Hz et de 1 Hz. Les mesures ont été réalisées au moyen d'un rhéomètre Haake RS 150 à 25 °C avec des corps de géométrie cône-plan (diamètre du cône et dimension du plan de 35 mm, angle du cône de 2°, et entrefer entre le cône et le plan de 0, 1 mm). Les résultats sont indiqués dans le tableau 1 suivant :Complex modulus and loss angle measurements were made for frequencies of 10 "2 Hz and 1 Hz. The measurements were made using a Haake RS 150 rheometer at 25 ° C with cone-plane geometry (diameter of the cone and dimension of the plane 35 mm, cone angle of 2 °, and air gap between the cone and the plane of 0.1 mm). The results are shown in the following table 1:
Tableau 1Table 1
Test de maquillage des cilsEyelash makeup test
Des éprouvettes de cheveux ont été maquillées à l'aide d'un peigne à cils. Chaque éprouvette de cheveux est constituée d'un segment deHair samples were made up using an eyelash comb. Each hair test piece consists of a segment of
44 cheveux noués côte à côte sur une cordelette sur une longueur totale de 5 mm. La longueur individuelle de chaque cheveu est de 20 mm et le diamètre moyen est de 75 μm.44 hair tied side by side on a cord over a total length of 5 mm. The individual length of each hair is 20 mm and the average diameter is 75 μm.
Le peigne à cils est du type de ceux utilisés dans les articles de conditionnement de mascara en matière plastique. Il comprend 27 dents réparties sur une longueur de 23 mm, chaque dent mesurant 2 mm.The eyelash comb is of the type used in plastic mascara packaging articles. It includes 27 teeth distributed over a length of 23 mm, each tooth measuring 2 mm.
Les éprouvettes ont été maquillées par 5 passages successifs du peigne préalablement trempé dans les compositions des exemples 1 et 2.The test pieces were made up by 5 successive passes of the comb previously dipped in the compositions of Examples 1 and 2.
Les résultats sont regroupés dans le tableau 2 suivant.The results are collated in Table 2 below.
Tableau 2Table 2
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP02790544A EP1438008A1 (en) | 2001-10-26 | 2002-10-25 | Material with drawing ability, cosmetic composition with drawing ability, make-up composition and make-up method |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR01/13906 | 2001-10-26 | ||
| FR0113906A FR2831435A1 (en) | 2001-10-26 | 2001-10-26 | SPINABLE MATERIAL, SPINABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION, MAKEUP COMPOSITION AND MAKEUP PROCESS |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2003035020A1 true WO2003035020A1 (en) | 2003-05-01 |
Family
ID=8868788
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/FR2002/003680 Ceased WO2003035020A1 (en) | 2001-10-26 | 2002-10-25 | Material with drawing ability, cosmetic composition with drawing ability, make-up composition and make-up method |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP1438008A1 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2831435A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2003035020A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US9308171B2 (en) | 2001-08-06 | 2016-04-12 | Purdue Pharma L.P. | Pharmaceutical formulation containing gelling agent |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2736830A1 (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1997-01-24 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR BODY HYGIENE IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION |
| US5814323A (en) * | 1995-10-16 | 1998-09-29 | Lever Brothers Company, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic composition |
| WO2001005932A1 (en) * | 1999-07-17 | 2001-01-25 | Rhodia Consumer Specialties Limited | Structured surfactant systems |
| EP1166747A2 (en) * | 2000-06-23 | 2002-01-02 | L'oreal | Foaming cosmetic cream |
-
2001
- 2001-10-26 FR FR0113906A patent/FR2831435A1/en active Pending
-
2002
- 2002-10-25 WO PCT/FR2002/003680 patent/WO2003035020A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2002-10-25 EP EP02790544A patent/EP1438008A1/en not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2736830A1 (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1997-01-24 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR BODY HYGIENE IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION |
| US5814323A (en) * | 1995-10-16 | 1998-09-29 | Lever Brothers Company, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic composition |
| WO2001005932A1 (en) * | 1999-07-17 | 2001-01-25 | Rhodia Consumer Specialties Limited | Structured surfactant systems |
| EP1166747A2 (en) * | 2000-06-23 | 2002-01-02 | L'oreal | Foaming cosmetic cream |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| P.PITZALIS ET AL.: "Characterization of the liquid-crystalline phases in the glycerol monooleate/diglycerol monooleate/water system", LANGMUIR, vol. 16, no. 15, 2000, pages 6358 - 6365, XP001113070 * |
| T.ENGELS ET AL.: "Lyotrope flüssigkritalline Phasen. Anwendungen in Wasch-, Spül- und Reinigungsmitteln. in der Kosmetik und in technischen Prozessen", LYOTROPE FLÜSSIGKRISTALLE. GRUNDLAGEN ENTWICKLUNG ANWENDUNG, 1999, Darmstadt, pages 107 - 140, XP008009374 * |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US9308171B2 (en) | 2001-08-06 | 2016-04-12 | Purdue Pharma L.P. | Pharmaceutical formulation containing gelling agent |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP1438008A1 (en) | 2004-07-21 |
| FR2831435A1 (en) | 2003-05-02 |
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