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WO2003009825A2 - Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003009825A2
WO2003009825A2 PCT/EP2002/007424 EP0207424W WO03009825A2 WO 2003009825 A2 WO2003009825 A2 WO 2003009825A2 EP 0207424 W EP0207424 W EP 0207424W WO 03009825 A2 WO03009825 A2 WO 03009825A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
catechins
compounds
group
preparations
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2002/007424
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2003009825A3 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Döring
Volker Schreiner
Wilfried Siefken
Gerhard Sauermann
Timo Rode
Stefanie Carstensen
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication of WO2003009825A2 publication Critical patent/WO2003009825A2/fr
Publication of WO2003009825A3 publication Critical patent/WO2003009825A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

Definitions

  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing catechins or extracts of green tea for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and other negative changes in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin are included in Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing catechins or extracts of green tea for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and other negative changes in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.
  • the present invention relates in particular to the use of catechins or extracts from green tea and / or their derivatives and precursors and active ingredient combinations with one or more electrolytes and with glycerol or urea alone or in combination for the treatment and active prevention of dry skin and for strengthening the barrier function the skin and other negative changes in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function, the one that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), is the important part for the barrier function. It is worn out in contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant process of renewal, whereby fine scales are continuously released to the outside and horny cell and lipid material is reproduced from the inside.
  • the skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Bar ' er, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to one Brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the homocytes (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks
  • the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through.
  • the special structure of the horny layer protects the skin on the one hand and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.
  • the regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it not only has a barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of the horny layer.
  • the lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • the composition of these lipids is of crucial importance for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and thus for the water impermeability of the skin.
  • the skin's horny layer swells.
  • the degree of this swelling depends, among other things, on the duration of the bath and its temperature.
  • water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer.
  • skin's own Surfactants are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to subsequently dry out, which can be significantly enhanced by washing-active additives.
  • the barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating.
  • the determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically differently structured surfactants and the like.
  • the water content in the top layer of skin is of the utmost importance. It can be influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.
  • Anionic surfactants which are generally components of cleaning preparations, can increase the pH value in the horny layer for a long time, which greatly hinders regenerative processes that serve to restore and renew the barrier function of the skin. In this case, a new, often very unfavorable equilibrium occurs in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction, which significantly affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer.
  • Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily as meaning that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, lipids, electrolytes). is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, lipids, electrolytes
  • the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas.
  • the ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • This physical barrier can be removed correspondingly easily, for example with cleaning agents, as a result of which the original, impaired state is reached again.
  • the skin care effect can decrease with regular treatment. After stopping the application of the product, the skin quickly returns to the condition before the start of treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. A sustainable product effect is therefore generally not achieved or only to a limited extent.
  • the effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin even consists in selective barrier damage, which is intended to enable active substances to penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the skin is sometimes accepted as a side effect.
  • the effect of nourishing cleaning products essentially consists in an efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances.
  • the damage to the horny layer barrier can be further limited.
  • the prior art lacks preparations which have a positive effect on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer and which strengthen or even restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular of the lamellae made of intercellular lipids.
  • intercellular lipid mixtures such as ceramides or ceramide analogues, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, have recently been increasingly added to the topical preparations.
  • these lipids are mostly very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually less than expected.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • skin care preparations should be made available that maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They should also be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis.
  • the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable.
  • disorders of the homeostasis of the skin, in particular healthy skin are to be treated and remedied or treated prophylactically.
  • the structure of human hair is basically the same as that of the horny layer of human skin. There are lipids between the dead corneocytes, e.g. Ceramides that counteract the drying out and structural weakness of the hair.
  • the hair structure can therefore also be improved by the active compounds according to the invention and their combinations.
  • the active compounds according to the invention and their combinations are also suitable for the treatment of a flaky scalp.
  • the aging of the skin represents e.g. represents a particularly dramatic form of skin homeostasis disorder.
  • the active compounds according to the invention and their combinations improve very particularly homeostatic deviations of the aging skin. Therefore, like the preparations they contain, they are very well suited for the treatment and prophylactic treatment of skin aging.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological topical preparations in particular cosmetic topical preparations, are preferred.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the active compounds according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain one or more of the compounds of group a) and one or more compounds of group b) or group c). Preparations containing one or more compounds of groups a) and b) and c) are particularly preferred.
  • osmolytes are understood to mean osmotically active, uncharged molecules which can be taken up actively or passively by epidermal keratinocytes.
  • the compounds according to the invention can optionally be used as acids or in the form of their salts, e.g. the water-soluble salts, e.g. the sodium or potassium salts.
  • Precursors are e.g. B. Compounds that are converted into active substances by metabolic steps.
  • catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins.
  • the catechins form the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tanning agents, e.g. B. in tea. They occur together with other phenols in many types of fruit and are involved in the browning of pressure and interfaces (e.g. in apples) catalyzed by phenol oxidases.
  • the basic body the "catechin” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) is widespread in plants and occurs for example in the catechu.
  • catechin catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol
  • the epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an epimer of catechin.
  • the objects according to the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular those preparations, the extracts of green tea extracts from Dragoco, Planex Exercise, Gattefose, Dr. Straetmanns, Phytexcell and / or Indena included.
  • Tea comes from leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea bush (Camellia sinensis L.), which are processed using methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, crushing and drying.
  • Black tea is a fermented tea
  • oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves of which are wilted. Rolls ferment only half of the usual time and then dried.
  • Green tea is an unfermented product, the leaves of which are blanched, rolled and dried while preserving the natural leaf color.
  • black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% proteins, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6% oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11.9% Pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin.
  • Fresh leaves have essentially the same composition, but contain more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, with the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol.
  • Around 80% of the polyphenol tannins contain catechins (main component galloyl - (-) - epigalIocatechin).
  • extracts from leaves of the plants of the order Theales with the Theaceae family in particular the species Camellia spec, especially the tea varieties Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis, and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica are particularly suitable.
  • green tea also contains the bile acid esters of these active compounds, which are likewise active according to the invention.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain catechins or bile esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid residues from catechins, in particular polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin , (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Green tea extracts are known and commercially available:
  • Active ingredients of group a) are advantageous according to the invention in.
  • Suitable electrolytes are compounds that are capable of dissociation in ions, especially when dissolved in water.
  • they can be present as inorganic or organic salts.
  • inorganic salts in particular NaCl, NaBr, NaI, Na 2 B 4 O 7 , Na 2 SiO 3 , Na 2 CO 3 , NaHCO 3 , Na 3 PO 4 , Na 2 HPO 4 , NaH 2 PO 4 , KCI
  • KI LiCI, LiCI, NH 4 CI, ZnCI 2 , AI 2 SO 4 and MgSO
  • salts of organic acids especially of naturally occurring acids in the skin, e.g. energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate and weak carboxylic acids, eg sodium propionate.
  • the active system mentioned stimulates the skin's own metabolism of lipids and proteins, which have to be constantly re-formed in order to maintain the epidermal barrier for water.
  • dry skin in particular is treated and / or cared for by the barrier-strengthening effect of these preparations, while drying out of normal skin is actively prevented.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.05-30% by weight, particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, of one or several electrolytes, preferably sodium chloride, based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • Suitable osmolytes are, for example, the polyols, methylamine compounds and amino acids and their respective precursors.
  • substances from the group of the sugar alcohols myo-inositol, sorbitol, mannitol
  • osmolytes choline, betaine, phosphorylcholine, glycerophosphorylcholines, glutamine, glycine, ⁇ -alanine, Glutamate, aspartate, proline, and taurine.
  • Precursors of these substances are, for example, glucose, glucose polymers, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, inorganic phosphates, proteins, peptides and polyamic acids.
  • Preliminary stages are e.g. Compounds that are metabolized into osmolytes.
  • the osmolytes and / or their precursors mentioned are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably to 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably to 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, particularly preferably to 0.1 - 5.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preparations which contain polyols, in particular glycerol and urea, are preferred.
  • Suitable polyols are, for example, straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkanols with, for example, 2-6 OH groups, preferably 2 or 3 OH groups and z. B. 2-12 or 2-6, in particular 2 or 3 or 4 carbon atoms.
  • Z. B. glycols including those with non-vicinal OH groups and also polyalkylene glycols, for. B. with 2-6, in particular 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms per glycol unit, which may be etherified in the same or a mixture.
  • the number of alkyl glycol units in the polyalkylene glycol can e.g. B. up to 20, preferably up to 10, but in particular 2, 3, 4 or 5.
  • Glycerol butylene glycols, propylene glycols, ethylene glycol, pentanediols, hexanediols, in particular the vicinal hydroxy compounds, are particularly suitable, Diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and tributylene glycol.
  • polyols are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, e.g. 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • urea is advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, e.g. 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • these substances are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, e.g. 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • the ratio of the weight of the active ingredients in group b) (electrolytes) to the weight of the active ingredients in group c) can vary.
  • the weight ratio b) / c) can be 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but in particular 1: 1.
  • the ratio of the weight of the polyol to the weight of the urea can vary.
  • the weight ratio polyol / urea can be 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2, but in particular 1: 1.
  • the active system mentioned stimulates the skin's own metabolism of lipids and proteins, which have to be constantly re-formed in order to maintain the epidermal barrier for water.
  • the dry skin is treated and / or cared for by the barrier-strengthening effect of these preparations, while actively drying out normal skin.
  • the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Correspondingly, depending on their structure, they can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain e.g. 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations of the active compounds according to the invention ,
  • the active compound combinations used according to the invention are particularly preferably used in pH-buffered preparations, a pH range from 5-7, in particular about 5-6, being very particularly preferred.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizer
  • Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil type Oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol.
  • the active compounds according to the invention are in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other customary encapsulation materials, for example in the form of cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or in liposomal encapsulation. It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active compounds according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain antioxidants.
  • all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D- Camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. B.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D- Camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • Buthioninsulfoximine Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfo ne, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. - hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts , Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. As ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • the lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; benzoates;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palatate, 2-ethylhexyl palate, 2-ethylhexyl palate Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2-15 - alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Advantageous emulsifiers are, for example, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20; sorbitan; sorbitan; Ceteareth-25; Ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate; Triceteareth-4 phosphate; glyceryl stearate;
  • alkyl acrylate cross polymer sorbitan; methyl glucose; Triceteareth-4-phosphate; Trilaureth-4 phosphate; Polyglycerylmethylglucosedistearat; Poloxamer 101 potassium cetyl phosphate; lsosteareth-10; Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearat; Ceteth-10 polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate; Oleth-20; lsoceteth-20; Glyceryl isostearate polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate; Cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with PEG-20 stearate; glyceryl stearate; PEG-30 stearate.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called
  • Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
  • Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • UVB filter substances they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example: 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bomylidene-methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl-10- Designated sulfonic acid
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the inventive combinations Active substance combinations used with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention.
  • the quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of active ingredient combinations with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.
  • UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention.
  • the amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological agents contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment.
  • auxiliaries include preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to add hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself to dye.
  • the anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, the active substance combinations according to the invention in the aqueous medium and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 50% by weight.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are in the form of a lotion, which is rinsed out and used, for example, before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent wave treatment, these are, for example, aqueous or aqueous alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.
  • aqueous or aqueous alcoholic solutions which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.
  • These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.
  • a cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion generally provides an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution represents and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as active ingredient combinations used according to the invention in effective concentration.
  • the amount of the polymers used is e.g. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
  • Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair which contain the active compound combinations used according to the invention, can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type.
  • nonionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components.
  • These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.
  • cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active compounds according to the invention and any solvents conventionally used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose,
  • any solvents conventionally used for this preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose,
  • Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain.
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
  • the amount of active compounds according to the invention in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
  • Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or low-water or water-free cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, easier removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - foam regulation.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants are generally of the type and The charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule is classified into four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG-4-lauramide carboxylate,
  • ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate
  • acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • alkyl sulfonates for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ⁇ 2 . ⁇ 4 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate, 4. sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate,
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ⁇ 2- ⁇ 3 -pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain.
  • Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be selected for the purposes of the present invention from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular
  • Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide such as
  • Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides,
  • Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • alkanolamides such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ethers for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycoside such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form.
  • they preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof and auxiliaries of the kind normally used for this.
  • the Surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, and auxiliaries of the kind normally used for this purpose.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like.
  • the additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like.
  • Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics.
  • the complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Complexing agents form complexes with metal atoms which, if one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are metalacycles.
  • Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors.
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, Nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigkla (HOEDTA) and its anions, Diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA Nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigkladaacetic acid
  • DPTA Diethylenaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA trans-1,2-
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or photooxidation, these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention.
  • these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photo
  • the amount of active compound combinations used according to the invention in these preparations is preferably 0.01-30% by weight, preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that active ingredient combinations according to the invention are incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the green tea extract used in the following examples is "Green Tea Extract Extra” (from Dragoco.DE).
  • Vitamin C 1 1, 0000
  • the constituents of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. Then it is cooled to room temperature.
  • the constituents of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. Then it is cooled to room temperature.
  • the constituents of the oil phase are combined with one another, then stirred at 60-70 ° C. with the likewise combined water phase, whereupon the mixture is homogenized. Then it is cooled to room temperature.
  • the green tea extract is stirred into the water phase.
  • the fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.
  • (-) - Epigallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase.
  • the fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.
  • (-) - Catechin is dissolved in the water phase.
  • the fat phase is then added to the water phase at 75 ° C., stirred and homogenized until a uniform light yellow lotion has formed.
  • (-) - Gallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase, the fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform emulsion has formed.
  • the components are stirred at 25 ° C until a uniform, clear mixture is obtained.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de préparations pour application topique, contenant a) un ou plusieurs composés du groupe constitué par des catéchines ou des esters d'acide biliaire de catéchines ou des extraits aqueux ou organiques de végétaux ou parties de végétaux, qui contiennent une certaine teneur en catéchines ou esters d'acide biliaire de catéchines, par exemple les feuilles de la famille végétale des Theaceae, en particulier de l'espèce Camellia sinensis (thé vert) ou de ses substances typiques, telles que polyphénols et catéchines, caféine, vitamines, sucre, minéraux, acides aminés, lipides et leurs précurseurs et dérivés, b) éventuellement un ou plusieurs composés du groupe des électrolytes, c) éventuellement un ou plusieurs composés du groupe des polyols et urée et éventuellement d) un ou plusieurs composés du groupe des osmolytes, pour le traitement et la prévention active des peaux sèches et pour renforcer la fonction barrière de la peau ainsi que pour le traitement, le soin et la prophylaxie des peaux sensibles et/ou le traitement et la prophylaxie des symptômes d'une modification négative de l'homéostasie physiologique des peaux saines, en particulier des états cutanés déficitaires, sensibles ou hypoactifs ou des états déficitaires, sensibles ou hypoactifs d'annexes cutanées, d'inflammations cutanées ainsi que de l'eczéma atopique, de la photodermatose polymorphe, du psoriasis, du vitiligo, des peaux sensibles, du prurit ou des peaux irritées, de modifications de la peroxydation lipidique normale, d'une modification du métabolisme céramide, lipidique et énergétique des peaux saines, d'une modification de la perte d'eau transépidermale physiologique, d'une diminution de l'hydratation cutanée et de la perte d'humidité de la peau, de la modification du NMF (facteur naturel d'hydratation), de la diminution de la communication intercellulaire, de syndromes déficitaires de la synthèse intracellulaire de l'ADN, de détériorations de l'ADN et de la diminution des mécanismes endogènes de réparation de l'ADN, de l'activation de métalloprotéinases et/ou d'autres protéases ou de l'inhibition des mécanismes endogènes de réparation de l'ADN correspondants, de différences de modifications post-translationnelles normales de composants du tissu conjonctif, de modifications de la teneur normale en acide hyaluronique et en glucosaminoglycane des peaux saines, de la formation de squames sur les cheveux, de la desquamation du cuir chevelu et du vieillissement de la peau.
PCT/EP2002/007424 2001-07-07 2002-07-04 Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines Ceased WO2003009825A2 (fr)

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DE10133203A DE10133203A1 (de) 2001-07-07 2001-07-07 Catechine oder Extrakte von grünem Tee enthaltende kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und aktiven Prävention trockener Haut und anderer negativer Veränderungen der physiologischen Homöostase der gesunden Haut
DE10133203.3 2001-07-07

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WO2003009825A2 true WO2003009825A2 (fr) 2003-02-06
WO2003009825A3 WO2003009825A3 (fr) 2003-04-17

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Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1752131A1 (fr) * 2005-07-27 2007-02-14 Anagen Therapeutics, Inc. Composition pharmaceutique et cosmétique stabilisée comprenant des catéchines ou leurs dérivés
EP1631304A4 (fr) * 2003-04-04 2007-03-21 Unigen Pharmaceuticals Inc Formulation destinee a inhiber la cyclooxygenase (cox) et la lipoxygenase (lox) utilisee dans les soins cutanes
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CN116075310A (zh) * 2020-06-29 2023-05-05 塔普克斯制药公司 局部用维生素c组合物
CN116568278A (zh) * 2020-11-23 2023-08-08 Isp投资有限公司 获得茶叶的水性提取物的方法、包含此类提取物的组合物和它们的化妆品用途

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US9061039B2 (en) 2002-03-01 2015-06-23 Unigen, Inc. Identification of Free-B-Ring flavonoids as potent COX-2 inhibitors
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US9370544B2 (en) 2002-04-30 2016-06-21 Unigen, Inc. Formulation of a mixture of free-B-ring flavonoids and flavans as a therapeutic agent
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JP2011519887A (ja) * 2008-05-06 2011-07-14 エヴォニク ゴールドシュミット ゲーエムベーハー シスタスハーブ抽出物を含む化粧品
CN116075310A (zh) * 2020-06-29 2023-05-05 塔普克斯制药公司 局部用维生素c组合物
JP2023532111A (ja) * 2020-06-29 2023-07-26 トピックス ファーマシューティカルズ，インコーポレイテッド ビタミンｃ局所組成物
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US12350351B2 (en) 2020-06-29 2025-07-08 Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Topical vitamin c composition
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WO2022115859A1 (fr) * 2020-11-25 2022-06-02 Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Composition de traitement de cicatrices

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