US2186387A - Collar and like article of apparel - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 9, 1940. p, METZGER 2,186,387

comma AND LIKE An'rzcpm or mum Filed Jan. 29, 1-958 INVENTOR pa a/Z Me f'z er ATTORNEY ply isg ade ora gurved-woven'fabric, *i eiri' eat-mans illustrated conventionally i the accompanying drawing, in which:

a "a ""rtion er meet or: the Advent ll band ordinary might-h? n iabriesm i fi. k

Figure 1 is a plan view of a strip of thelining material from which the lining of thecollar is cut, as indicated by the dash lines, and.

Fig. 21s a view of a completed collar laid out flat, with one of the outer plies andthe lining ply partly broken away.

. Referring now to the drawing, I indicates a i strip of the lining material. This material, in-

stead of being or the ordinary straight weave,

iswoven on a curve by what may be termed conical weaving", and is of relatively narrow a width, preferably only slightly wider than is required to cut one collar lining across the width 7' of the strip,..as indicated by the dash lines! in Figure 1. g The lining, however, may be of greater width so-that more than one collar lining may be cut therefrom across the width thereof. However, for technical weaving reasons, the strip should preferably be kept to substantially the width of one collar lining.

' The lining comprises a plurality of bands, preferably woven in one piece. The top band 3 consists of warp threads] and filler threads 5 or cotton or other suitable material that will not u be renderedcementitioua in the subsequent treatr'itit us yotratmen y otnenzknown m .iismnannow from which the cellul mit ovigig .f

ticularlyto thecollar band portion llftlireoi,

just below .the fold so as-to minimize any tendency of the collar to turn outwardly or bulge attheiold undernormal conditions of wear. The succeedingband I2 'is the collar band portion of the lining and is of the same, or of substantially the same weave and construction as the collar top portion or band 3 of the lining.-. This band it, as will be seen onreierring to 2, comes within the collar band portion H or the completed collar.

Belowthe band l2 there may be formed a band l3 from which the cellulose derivative threads are;omitted, so as to leave the outer plies free from adhesion tothe lining along the lower edge of the collar bandportlon I l for con- 'venience in attaching the collar to a shirt. 7 g The outer or top and bottom plies I4 and I5 01 the collar are made of any suitable fabric woven -in the ordinary manner on aplain loom in contradistinction tothe lining which, as above noted,

,is woven on a curve. The outer p'lies may be of 'shirting or other material commonly used in the manufacture of collars. In the case where the collar is attached to the shirt,ethese outer plies may be made of the same material as the shirt.

In making the collar, the two outer plies and the lining ply are cut to the proper shape. three plies are then assembled, with the lining ply on the outside, and are stitched around on all the edges, except the bottom edge of the band portion, with a row of concealed stitches about from the edge. The whole assemblage is then turned inside out so as to bring the lining on the inside between the outer plies. After the collar has been turned, I may either close the bottom edge to form a detached collar, or I may leave said edge open in order that the collar may be subsequently attached to a shirt. Upon completion of the collar I adhesively unite the plies together by any known method, depending for the adhesion uponthe latently adhesive properties of the cellulose derivative threads in the lining.

My improved collar is of the kind generally known as a one piece collar, that is, one in which the fold-over portion or collar top 1 is formed integral with the collar band portion II, as distinguished from the usual fold-over collar where the collar top and the collar band are formed as separate parts and afterwards secured together by stitching.

Various modilcations in the details herein described and shown may be made within the spirit and scope of the invention.

This application is a continuation in part of an application filed by me on June 13, 1935, Serial No. 26,502.

What I claim is:

1. In a collar of the character described, the combination with one or more straight-woven plies of fabric, of one or more piles of curvedwoven fabric containing a non-uniform distribution of cellulose derivative yarns in the warp, said non-uniform distribution comprising the omission of the cellulose derivative yarns in a narrow region to form a fold line zone and a concentration of cellulose derivative yarns in the band portion of the collar adjacent to said fold line.

2. A collar of the fold over type in which the collar top and the collar band portions are integral with each other and are adhesively united except at the fold line, comprising outer'plies' of straight-woven fabric, and a lining ply o! fabric yarns of cellulose derivative and yarns of The A collar top and collar band more lining piles of a curved amass? cotton extending on a curve in the direction of the length of the collar, the'cellulose derivative yarns being omitted in the region of the fold line and being of a closer weave immediately below the fold line than at other parts of the lining.

3. In a collar of the character described, the combination with one or more outer plies of a straight woven fabric, of a lining ply of a curved woven fabric embodying latently adhesive warp yarns extending on a curve in the-direction of V the length of the collar, said latently adhesive yarns being omitted along a narrow zone to form .an unadhered fold line.

the fold over type in which the portions are integral with each other andare adhesively united except in the region of a predetermined curved fold line, comprising outer plies of straight woven fabric, and a lining ply of woven fabric embodying yarns of cellulose derivative and'yarns of cotton woven on a curve the curvature of which extends in the direction of the length of the collar and corresponds substantially to the curvature of the fold line, the cellulose derivative yarns being omitted in the region of the fold line.v

5. In a one piece collar comprising 'a collar top and band, the combination with one or more outer plies of a' straight woven fabric, of a lining ply of a curved woven fabric embodying latently adhesive warp yarnsextending on a curve in the direction lar, said iatently adhesive yarns. extending throughout approximately the whole width or the collar top and band and being omitted along a narrow zone at the fold line to form an unad- -4. A collar of hered fold line.

of the length of the col- 6. In a one piece collar comprising a collar top and band, the combination outer plies of straight woven with one or more fabric, of one or woven fabric containing a non-uniform distributional! a cellulose derivative warp yarn extending on a curve in the direction of the length of the collar, said cellulose derivative yarn extending throughout approximately the whole width of the collar top and band and being omitted in a region to form afold line zone and concentrated in'the band portion of .thecollar adjacent the fold line.

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