US2021833A - Turn down collar - Google Patents

Description

. C. CAMPBELL TURN DowN COLLAR Nov. 19, 1935.

Filed May 4, 1935 Illllnlfrllll WITNESS E5 241k Patented Nov. 19, 1935 UNITEu STATES TURN DOWN COLLAR Richard c. campbell, Plainfield, N. J., assigner to Campbell Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application May 4, 1935, Serial No. 19,883

4 Claims.

The present invention relates to collars, and more particularly it concerns collars intended to be attached to that type of shirt known as a soft shirt, in which the collar is permanently attached to the body thereof.

An object of the invention is to provide a collar rwith a supporting and stiffening interlining of such character that both the cape and neck band portions may be properly shaped and supported in use, and in which the cape portion may be readily turned down and properly spaced with relation to the neck band portion, while the inner face of the neck band will have no tendency to buckle and form transverse ridges upon its inner surface when it is bent or curved to conform to the neck opening.

A further object is to so construct the interlining that it will reinforce the fold line between the neck band portion and the cape portion of the collar, thus materially strengthening the collar and at the Sametime afford a cushioning effect When setting the neck band to conform to the neck opening of the shirt, the interlining yielding and permitting the proper disposition of the yarntexture during the setting operation.

To the above ends the present invention consists of a turn down collar having an interlining for the cape portion composed of woven fabric and an interlining for the neck band portion composed of knitted fabric, the two parts of the interlining being united to each other and to the outer plies of the collar; and it further consists of the turn down collar which will be hereinafter described and claimed.

The present invention is shown in the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 shows the upper portion of a shirt in which the attached collar and neck band are constructed in accordance therewith;

Fig. 2 shows a vertical sectional view through the collar and neck band, very much enlarged as compared with Fig. 1 and as compared with a collar of normal size; the enlargement being for the purpose of showing as clearly as it can be shown in a drawing the construction embodying the present invention; and

Fig. 3 shows a broken plan view of the interlining.

Like reference characters will be employed throughout the drawing and specification to designate like parts.

In the drawing, I indicates the upper body portion of a soft or negligee shirt having attached thereto a collar having a neck band portion 2 `and a cape portion 3, the collar and neck band being made in accordance with the present invention.

The collar and neck band will embody outer plies 4 and 5 of any appropriate woven material such as broadcloth, gingham, or, other suitable 5 shirting. Between the outer plies 4 and 5 there is an interlining 6 (see Fig. 3) comprising a cape portion v1 of woven textile fabric and a neck band portion 8 of knitted fabric, the parts 1 and 8 being united by a lap stitched seam 9. The 10 woven fabric portion of the interlining is preferably somewhat coarser in weave than the outer plies 4 and 5, and the knitted fabric portion 8 is of suflicient weight and texture so that it will when in position afford a smooth somewhat cushioning backing for the outer ply 5 forming the inner surface of the neck band portion 2. This cushioning effect serves to take up the slack which is liable to be formed by the curling or rounding of the neck band in conforming and securing it to the upper portion ofthe body material of the shirt by the stitching I0, and insures that the inner surface of the neck band shall be smooth and without ripples when .the permanent set is given thereto by the fusing operation.

The interlining will be supplied with acetate cellulose in suilicient quantity so that when thev finished collar is subjectedV to the action of a suitable solvent for the acetate cellulose, and heat and pressure, the inner surfaces of the outer plies 4 and 5, and the interlining will be fused together and adhesively connected, in a manner which is clearly understood vby those skilled in this art.

Prior to the operation of adhesively connecting the outer plies 4 and 5 to the interlining 6, the union or seam 9 which unites the woven and knitted fabrics constituting the interlining will be p0' sitioned so that it will fall within the marginal 40 outline o f the neck band portion 2, and this will result in the woven portion 1 of the interlining extending across the fold line between the cape portion and the neck band portion thus producing a smooth and unbroken folding of the cape por'- 45 tion of the collar, as shown at Il in Fig. 2, and one which will not depend upon the presence of the seam usually employed in collars for uniting the neck band portion and the cape portion of the collar. This construction produces a very much stronger collar and at the same timeeliminates the excessive thickness of materialusually found in turn-down collars, coinciding with the seam which unites the neck band portion and the cape portion of such collars. The presence of f" such a seam has always constituted a weak point in the construction of turn-down collars and is one of the first points to break and tear away in the process of laundering.

By making the cape portion of the interlining of Woven fabric which extends over and through the fold line into the neck band portion the collar is greatly strengthened along the fold line, as will be readily perceived.

The acetate cellulose Will be embodied in the interlining in any suitable or convenient manner, as by employing yarns partially composed of vegetable 'fibers and acetate cellulose strands, or it may be applied in the form of thin liquid or lacquer to both surfaces of the interlining. Preferably the proportion of the ,acetate cellulose to that of the vegetable fibers will be such that the completed interlining will comprise approximately 30 percent of acetate cellulose and '70 percent of vegetable fibers.

As clearly shown in Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawing, the seam 9 connecting the neck band portion and cape portion of the interlining will be what is commonly known as a lap seam, the meeting edges of the respective blanks overlapping, as shown at I2. This results in forming a seam which, when the collar is subjected to the action of heat and pressure, will be practically imperceptible and will form no welt or ridge at. the point of union between the cape and neck' band portions and Will result, as before pointed out, in a smooth rounded fold line, as indicated at I I in Fig. 2.

Otherwise than as hereinbefore pointed out, the collar is made in the usual manner, thatis to say, the blanks constituting the outer exposed plies will be superimposed one on the other, preferably with the outer or finished surface in contact with each other. The interlining will then be placed in posi- 'finished surfaces thereof. exposed, as shown clearly in Fig. 2. After turning, the seam I0 will be put in, thus finishing the collar and uniting it to the material constituting the body of the shirt I surrounding the neck opening therein. Having been stitched and united to the body portion of the shirt, the finished collar will be treated with any suitable solvent for the .acetate cellulose and subjected to heat and pressure, thus not only shaping the collar but firmly uniting the outer plies to the interlining.

While the collar as hereinbefore described is of that construction which I believe to be the best form of my invention, yet I desire to state that such a collar in which the interlining shall be made of a single blank co-extensive in size and shape with thevouter plies and thus without the seam uniting the neck band and cape portions of the interlining, and made entirely of knitted fabric, or a collar in which the cape portion only is provided with an interlining of knitted fabric, I regard as being within the scope of my invention. lFor instance, instead of making the outer plies of one piece, as shown, forming both the cape portion and the neck band portion, my invention may be embodied in the usual so-called built-up collar in which the cape portions and the neck band portions are united to each other at the fold' line by a seam in the usual manner, the important and novel feature of my invention residing in the interlining and the manner in which it is incorporated and made a lo part of the collar.

A collar of the type herein disclosed, after the parts are united, is given a permanent set or shape in which the neck band portion is rounded so as to conform to the neck, and the cape porl5 tion is not only rounded but flared outwardly with relation to the neck band portion; and both the neck band portion and the cape portion are set by the fusing operation which unites the various layers constituting the outer plies and the 2o interlining. By the use of woven material as an interlining for the cape portion, a smooth surface texture is obtained, while the use of a knitted interlining for the neck band portionsuch material being much more elastic with the yarns loosely interlocked-permits a relative movement orself-conforming operation of the yarns with each other, thereby not only permitting the adjustment of the inner face of the neck band portion thereto but accommodating the fullness 30 caused by the curving of the neck band portion to be leveled out and smoothed during the fusing operation, the result being that an unwrinkled, smooth, inner neck band surface, free from ridges and the tendency to form ridges, will be produced when the plies of fabric including the interlining have been united by the fusing operation.l

I claim:

1. A turn down collar comprising a cape por- 40 tion and a neck band portion, the exposed outer plies of which are of woven fabric, and an interlining composed of a ply of Woven fabric for the cape portion and a. ply of knitted fabric Ifor the neck band portion. 45

2. A collar, as set forth in claim 1, in which the interlining is partly composed of acetate cellulose adhesively uniting the outer plies thereto.

3. A turn down collar comprising a cape por- 50- tion and a neck band portion, the exposed outer plies of which are formed of Woven fabric, the cape portion having an interlining of woven fabric and the neck band portion having an interlining of knitted fabric, the interlining con- 5 nected by a lap seam within the outlines of the neck band portion of the collar and along a line parallel to and adjacent the line of fold, the said interlining and outer plies being permanently united by an acetate cellulose adhesive.

4. A turn down collar comprising a cape portion and a n eck band portion, the exposed outer plies being of woven fabric, and an interlining, the neck band portion of 'which is formed of knitted fabric, the said interlining and outer 6" plies in the neck band portion being permanently united by an acetate cellulose adhesive.

RICHARD C. CAMPBELL.

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