RU2693294C1 - Method of neck processing in upper double-sided clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: clothes.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to articles of light industry, more specifically to methods for processing neck in male and female upper double-sided clothing, in particular, in coats, raincoats, jackets, with the help of collar-stand. Method envisages treatment of the upper sections of the lower and upper collar-racks by welts, at the same time on one of the welts preliminary slots are made. Suturing seam allowances are applied on welts. Upper post is stitched into the neck of the product main side, the lower post is stuck in the lining neck, the obtained stitching seams are ironed, face sides of the main side of the product and the lining are folded and the article is turned in one step along the cuts of the bottom, beads, ends of the posts and along the upper edge of the posts from their ends to the cuts, leaving the section of the upper section of the post, which is treated with welts, without stitching. Article is turned out and the pressed seams of the upper and lower posts are sewn by the machine method; after that the finishing line is laid along the upper edge of the post, forming a cavity between the upper and lower collars.

EFFECT: improved technological effectiveness of the method, reduced labor costs and shorter time for making the product, as well as possibility of using additional finishing elements and possibility of unification of the edges of the product and its parts.

4 cl, 1 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the garment industry, more specifically to methods for processing the neck in men's and women's upper double-sided clothing, in particular, in coats, raincoats, jackets, using a stand-up collar.

There is a method of processing the neck of women's outerwear (RU 2605380, publ. 2016.12.20), which involves processing the neck with a double stand-up collar, while the internal rack of variable height is performed integrally with the details of the front and back, and the external rack in the shape of a rectangle is cut off and connect with a conditional neck, either by adjusting the finished rack, or bend its lower section and hem it to the conditional neck, and the ends of the rack are processed with a slat, which is attached to the side of the board and, at the same time pritachivaya ends of the rack to the inner shear plate. The disadvantage of this method is the impossibility of using this method of processing the neck of women's outerwear for products from a wide range of materials of coats and suit assortment, except for two-faced material produced by a complex two-layer weave.

A known method of processing the collar in outerwear (RU 2031612, publ. 1995.03.27), according to which a pre-cut and processed collar made of top fabric and lining in the form of a combination of several interchangeable parts made of different materials, is connected to the neck of the product by stitching and then edging the seam of stitching with a braid or a strip of material, while the lining and part of the sub-products of the product are treated with an underlay facing and elastic band to form the entrance to the pocket between at the top cloth and the lining to accommodate the replaceable parts of the collar. The disadvantage of this method is the limitations regarding the design of the processed collars (it is possible to use only flat-lying collars), as well as excessive thickness of the edging seam formed by edging a large number of cuts, and, as a result, restrictions in the range and thickness of the materials used, which impairs operational properties and reduces the aesthetic characteristics of the product.

The closest to the claimed is a method of processing the collar of raincoats (Meteleva OV, Radchenko OV Methods of processing the collars of outer clothing. Guidelines for laboratory work for students of sewing and correspondence faculties of specialties 260901 “Technology of garments” products. ”Ivanovo: IvGTA, 2006), the scheme of which is given in the table of Appendix 2. According to the scheme of the known method, in the first stage, the upper sections of the stand-up collar are trimmed, securing the stitch of the grinding by the finishing line. At the next stage, the collar is connected to the neck of the product, having previously stitched the lower and upper collars along the cuts of the stand.

The known method is not technologically advanced, which is associated with the need to use a number of manual operations that require time and labor, which is largely manifested in the manufacture of double-sided garments. In addition, it does not allow for the use of additional trim elements of the upper cut of the rack, does not allow to unify the processing of edges and details of the product, which makes it impossible to diversify the style decision of the product and contribute to the improvement of its presentation.

The objective of the invention is the creation of a technologically advanced method of processing the neck in the upper double-sided clothing, providing a high presentation of the product.

The technical result of the method is to improve its manufacturability, reducing labor costs and reducing the time of manufacture of the product, providing the possibility of using additional elements of decoration and the possibility of unification of processing edges of the product and its parts.

This technical result is achieved by the method of processing the neck in the upper double-sided clothing, involving the processing of the upper cuts of the lower and upper stand-up collar with taps, fastening the stitch grinding with a finishing line and connecting the collar with the neck of the product, in which, unlike the well-known, the trimming of the stitching is trimmed onto the facing , the upper rack is stitched into the neck of the main side of the product, the lower rack - into the neck of the lining, the resulting stitching of the stitching is released, the front faces are folded Rons of the main side of the product and the lining and grind them at one time along the bottom sections, sides, the ends of the racks and the top section of the racks from their ends to the slits, leaving the trimmed section of the upper section of the rack unstrained, then turn out the product and join the pressed seams of the upper stitching and the bottom racks by machine, after which they lay a finishing line along the stitched up top of the rack, leaving a cavity between the upper and lower collars.

In an advantageous embodiment of the method, on one of the facing of the stand-up collar, slotted loops are preliminarily performed.

Also in the preferred embodiment of the method in the finished product, buttons are attached to the second facing in accordance with loops on the first facing.

In another possible embodiment of the method, a finishing element or a hood is fastened to a loop with loops.

The implementation of the method can be represented as follows, using for clarity the scheme presented in the drawing.

The upper sections of the upper and lower racks of the cut-down collar (parts 1 and 2 in the drawing) between cuts marking the turning edges are machined with taps, one of which has slit loops preliminarily made and swept over, and the grinding allowances are trimmed to the piping.

To do this, on the front side of the part 1, over the top section, put a facing 3 facing downwards and turn the detail 1 with a facing 3 between the slits. Seam width 5-7 mm. Seam allowance grinding direct (ironed) in the direction of facing 3 and tune. Joint width 1 mm.

On the front side of the part 2, in the upper section, overlay the facing 4 with the face side and grind the component 2 with this facing between the cuts. Seam width 5-7 mm. Seam allowance grinding direct (ironed) in the direction of facing 4 and tune. Joint width 1 mm.

Then the upper rack 1 is threaded into the neck of the conventionally main side 5 of a bilateral garment, the lower rack 2 is inserted into the neck of the conventional lining 6. The terms "conditional" and "conditional" note the fact that in a double-sided garment both sides are made of basic materials are front sides, while for clarity of presentation continue to use the designation of the parties "primary" and "lining".

The seams of stitching the upper and lower racks carefully iron on two sides.

Processed thus the main side of the product 5 and the lining 6 folded face to the inside, combining the seams stitching racks, and grind the product in a single step along the entire perimeter: the sections of the bottom, sides, racks and racks on the upper edge of the racks from their ends to the slits, leaving Untight section of the upper edge of the rack, treated with piping.

Then the product is completely turned out on the front side through this non-postpone section of the upper cut of the rack. Bottom sleeves grind lining sleeves.

The pressed seams of stitching the upper and lower racks are connected by machine. Buttons 7 are stitched onto one side according to loops 8 knocked out on the other side.

The drawing in the callout A-A shows the processing scheme of the ends of the stand-collar before the dissection:

Parallel to the upper edge of the racks, a finishing line is laid, fastening the upper and lower racks and both facing, leaving a cavity between the upper and lower collars.

Processing the neck of the proposed method using a stand-up collar with the above-described execution of its upper cut allows you to twist the bilateral garment on the front side through the collar, leaving no non-welded seams for this operation.

Thus, the proposed method improves the manufacturability of the entire product, reduces labor intensity and reduces the time it takes to manufacture it by canceling manual operations to seal unstitched seams, as well as eliminating the need to connect internal allowances manually when stitching the rack into the neck, which is important for implementation of the method in terms of industrial production.

The upper cut of the stand-up collar made in this way allows attaching to it the finishing in the form of various types of decorative elements, fur trim, hood, which makes it possible to diversify the stylistic design of the products and improve their presentation.

In addition, the proposed method allows to unify the treatment of the product as a whole, since it can be applied with equal success to the treatment of, for example, the edges of the set-in hood, the lower cuts of the product and the bottom of the sleeves.

Claims (4)

1. The method of processing the neck in the upper double-sided clothing, involving the processing of the upper cuts of the lower and upper stand-up collar with stitches, fastening the stitching of the finishing stitch, connecting the collar with the neck of the product, characterized in that the grinding stitches are trimmed to the stitches, the upper stitch is inserted into the neck the main side of the product, the bottom rack - in the neck of the lining, press out the resulting seams of stitching, fold the front sides of the main side of the product and the lining and grind out of In one step, cutting the bottom, sides, ends of the racks and the upper edge of the racks from their ends to rassech, leaving the upper section of the upper section of the rack, processed by turning, then turn the product and connect the pressed seams of the upper and lower racks by machine, then paving the finishing line on the upper edge of the rack, leaving the top of the cavity between the upper and lower collars. 2. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that on one of the facing collar strut pre-perform slotted loops. 3. The method according to p. 2, characterized in that in the finished product buttons are sewn to the second facing in accordance with the loops on the first facing. 4. The method according to p. 2, characterized in that the finishing element or a hood is fastened to the facing section with hinges.

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