FR3129817A1 - Lip applicator with gripping system to squeeze between two fingers - Google Patents

Abstract

Lip applicator with gripping system to be gripped between two fingers application (10) provided with a porous material (8) intended to be applied to the lips and a gripping system (20) defined by a connecting member (5) connecting two opposite gripping elements (4a, 4b) , configured to be gripped tightly between two fingers of a user. Figure 1

Description

Lip applicator with gripping system to squeeze between two fingers

The present invention relates to an applicator for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user, the applicator defining a cosmetic product application surface of complementary shape to the lips.

The cosmetic product is in particular a lip makeup product, such as a lip coloring product.

More generally, a cosmetic product is a product as defined in EC Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council dated November 30, 2009, relating to cosmetic products.

Technology background

To apply a makeup product to the lips of a user, it is known to use a lipstick stick to transfer product by sliding. Such a mode of transfer is effective, but is not always precise, in particular at the level of the realization of the contour. When the user is in a hurry, she generally avoids using products with a long hold or bright colors, to avoid wasting time when retouching the contour.

Furthermore, to obtain a very satisfactory result, the user can, when she has time, use a liner to create the outline, and a conventional stick lipstick to cover the inner part of the lips.

This make-up method does not give complete satisfaction, since it is long and tedious to implement. In addition, the contour often resists wear better than the inner part, which sometimes produces an unattractive temporal evolution of the make-up.

To overcome this problem, documents FR 752 860, US 2 279 781, US 2 207 959, FR 663 805, US 2 412 073, US 3 308 837, US 2 735 435, US 1 556 744, US 2 735 435, US 1 556 744, US 2,248,533, US 2,416,029, US 1,944,691, US 1,782,911, US 2,554,965, US 2,199,720, WO 2008013608 and US 2003209254, to use application pads of make-up which have a shape substantially complementary to the shape of the lips. Such pads make it possible to apply the make-up product by pressure, and not by sliding. The contour line obtained is therefore generally much sharper than that obtained with a traditional lipstick.

However, the applicators described in these documents are not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, although buffer systems in some cases improve the results, it is sometimes necessary to correct imperfections by pursing the lips. However, the drawing of the upper part of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of the “cupid” bow, is altered. In particular, buffer systems do not give a completely clean result at this arc. In this area, the contour line is not sharp, and the surface is overloaded. Conversely, in some cases, the central surface is well done, but the design and the contour line are imperfect.

To overcome this problem, it is possible to get help from a beautician, or to take the time to draw a clean line with a corrective pencil, which makes the makeup operation tedious.

Other solutions have been described in applications WO 2013/045332, FR 2 980 345, WO 2013/092726, and FR 2 984 699 to produce an applicator adapted to the individual morphology of the lips. To do this, an imprint of the user's lips is made from a statement of the contour of the lips corrected in a generic way, then a counter-mold is made, which will serve as an applicator. The user deposits the product in the counter-mold, before application to his lips. Another option consists in delivering the product through the counter-mold, through a multitude of holes. This solution brings progress, in particular on the sharpness and speed of application, but does not allow ideal make-up.

There does not yet exist a completely satisfactory solution for users to achieve satisfactory lip make-up in a simple, autonomous and reliable manner, the applicators being, among other things, difficult to position perfectly on the lips, even if they are made on measure. In addition, the transfer of formula from the applicator to the skin is not optimal, insofar as a space is often created locally between the applicator and the area to be treated.

There is a need to continue to improve the applicators in which the composition is contained in the form of impregnation of a porous material, in order in particular to improve the loading of the applicator, in particular when the latter comprises a surface of application adapted to the relief of a specific area of the face.

Patent FR 3099349, of which the Applicant is the Holder, discloses in its figure 7, an example of a porous applicator impregnated with a cosmetic composition, comprising a front face matching the contour of the lips and a rear face provided with a gripping ring.

There is a need to further facilitate the makeup and the care of human keratin materials, in particular to easily and accurately perform makeup of the lips, independently.

The present invention aims in particular to meet this need.

Definition of invention

The invention relates to a cosmetic applicator with a longitudinal axis X for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user defined by a contour of the lips and by a line of separation between an upper lip and a lower lip, the applicator comprises a gripping system and an application element comprising a porous material having a rear face and a front face, opposite the rear face and defining an application surface of shape complementary to that of the lips of the user, the surface of application being delimited by a peripheral line following the contour of the lips and by a crest zone capable of coming into engagement between the upper lip and the lower lip, facing the line of separation, the gripping system comprises a connecting member connecting two gripping elements arranged opposite one another with respect to the longitudinal axis X and configured to be gripped tightly between two fingers of a user, each gripping element delimiting an external gripping surface intended to come into contact with the fingers and the connecting member defines a central housing open at its distal end, the application element being partially inserted into the housing, the rear face of the application element being oriented towards a bottom of the housing and the front face of the applicator element projecting entirely out of the housing.

Preferably, the applicator is personalized, in particular to respond to the topography of the lips of the user. Notably, the peripheral line follows the cupid's bow of the wearer's lips.

Due to the particular structure of the gripping system promoting a good grip of the applicator, the user can place the applicator precisely on the lips and, take support exclusively on the lips before pressing the application element on these. Thus, the product is applied only on the lips, without overflowing on the skin located nearby.

The fact that the application element rests on the bottom of the housing not only at the periphery but also in a central zone, makes it possible to distribute the force more evenly on the application element, and thus to to have better contact pressure between the applicator element and the lips.

It follows that, on application, the composition can be applied relatively uniformly via the application surface, with a lower risk of surpluses or shortages of composition in places.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the operations consisting in: (i) providing an applicator as defined above, (ii) grasping the two opposite gripping elements between two fingers, (iii) optionally, positioning the centering pin between the upper lip and the lower lip, (iv) bringing the front face of the application element into contact with the lips, (v) pressing the application surface against the lips.

Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a preliminary operation consisting in (vi) carrying out an optical acquisition of at least part of the surface of the lips of a person, and producing, from at least the optical acquisition , a personalized applicator as defined above or a mold used to manufacture it.

Main definitions

An "X-axis part cross-section" is a section perpendicular to the X-axis of the part.

“Longitudinal axis of a part” denotes the line joining all the barycenters of the cross-sections of a part.

In particular, only the application surface of the application element can be loaded with cosmetic product or the application element can be totally or partially impregnated with cosmetic product. Optionally, the application surface may be, at least before use, elastically constrained bearing against a free surface of the product contained in a reservoir of product, for example in a box or a pot, which may be sufficient to ensure good loading the application face with the product. The product may form a deposit on the application surface.

The application element may consist of a more or less elastically compressible element, on which is mounted or which includes an application surface, in particular in the form of a foam, a woven or a nonwoven. . The application surface can be relatively smooth or have reliefs capable of having a massaging action when they are applied to the skin.

Preferred embodiments

Preferably, the applicator according to the invention has one or more of the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

The app element has a custom shape to the lips of the user.

At least part of the application element is located between the gripping elements. A better grip of the applicator results.

The application surface is impregnated with the cosmetic product.

The rear face of the application element bears in at least one central location of the bottom of the housing. The application element is better maintained in the housing.

Each gripping element is held away from the connecting member by a spacer. Since the connecting elements are not in contact with the application element, handling is easier and the risk of soiling the application element is reduced.

A centering lug, extending along the longitudinal axis X of the applicator, is attached to the center of the front face of the applicator element. The correct placement of the applicator on the lips is facilitated.

The front face of the application element comprises an elastically compressible material defined by a Shore hardness of between 30A and 60A. This range of hardness is ideal for a good transfer of the product on the lips.

The back side is flat. It follows that the application element can rest better against the bottom of the housing.

The application element has a longitudinal section along the longitudinal axis X that is concave towards the outside, in particular a profile in the shape of an arc of a circle. Its shape is substantially complementary to that of the lips.

The connecting member is delimited by a side wall holding the applicator element in place and defining the periphery of the housing. It follows that the applicator element is better fixed in the connecting member.

Customization of the applicator

The contour of the application surface of the applicator can match the natural contour of the lips.

In a variant, the contour of the application surface deviates from the natural contour of the lips, in order for example to correct a defect or to change the appearance of made-up lips.

The topography can be obtained by a 3D scan of the body surface. This makes it possible to obtain a personalized application surface, made to measure.

To perform the 3D scan, any 3D scanner capable of capturing the volume and dimensions of the area concerned can be used. The 3D scan is advantageously a scan by projection of light fringes, but any other structured light is possible.

A file readable by a numerically controlled machining machine or by a 3D printer is advantageously generated, which can be stored, in particular automatically, for example in the cloud or on a central server.

A translated digital copy of a surface, possibly reworked, obtained from the 3D scan is advantageously created, then a smoothed volume of the part of the device comprising the application surface or of the mold between said surface and its translated copy can be generated .

At least part of the applicator comprising the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing. In a variant, a mold used for the manufacture of at least part of the applicator comprising the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing.

The method of manufacturing the applicator may include a preliminary step of making an impression. The impression can in particular be made by direct molding of the area to be made up or from such a molding, indirectly, for example using an intermediate mold.

Cosmetic composition

The composition is preferably fluid.

The viscosity of the composition is for example between 40 and 90 UD (Deviation Unit), preferably between 55 and 80 UD, ie between 366 and 569 cP (0.37 and 0.57 Pa.s).

This viscosity is measured at 25°C, with a Rhéomat 180 (Lamy) fitted with an MS–R2 spindle, selected according to a low to medium viscosity of the product, which rotates at a speed of 200 revolutions per minute. The measurement is taken after a rotation of 10 minutes. The viscosity measurements are carried out no later than one week after manufacture.

Such a viscosity makes it possible to improve the grip of the composition on the front face of the applicator element and to prevent the composition from running during use.

The cosmetic composition can be colored or not, perfumed or not.

Application element

The application element may consist exclusively of the porous material. However, it may prove advantageous to cover the porous material at least partially, in particular on its upper face, with at least one layer of another material, for example to improve the homogeneity of the composition on the front face of the application element or more generally adjust the permeability to the composition of the application element according to the location on its upper face.

The applicator element may thus comprise, for example, a net or a membrane at the surface of the porous material, through which the composition is removed, in particular a net made of polyolefin, in particular made of polyethylene.

porous material

The porous material of the application element is preferably formed at least partially by an elastically deformable and compressible material. It can be an open cell foam, in particular an injected foam, for example a polyamide foam (Nylon), a polyurethane foam (PU), a polyacrylonitrile foam (PAN), a polyethylene foam (PE ), ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) foam or poly(vinyl chloride) (PVC) foam, silicone foam.

The porous material may have a shape obtained from molding, which simplifies the manufacture of the applicator, from thermoforming, or from machining. The porous material can be in the form of a block with an axisymmetric or rotationally symmetric shape, or without any symmetry.

The rear face of the application element, and in particular that of the porous material, may have a lower absorption capacity on its periphery compared to its center. The cosmetic composition then preferentially flows through the center rather than through the periphery when the user presses on the applicator element and compresses the porous material. This makes it possible to favor the flow towards the center of the application element, in particular towards the outwardly convex zones. It is thus possible to improve the loading of the applicator when the latter comes into contact with the application element.

The rear face may have non-uniform porosity; the periphery of the rear face may be less porous than the center of the lower face.

The porous material in the applicator element may comprise a foam of polydispersed porosity, the dimension of the pores of which on the periphery of the rear face is small enough to prevent the passage of the cosmetic composition through a peripheral zone of the porous material. As a variant, the periphery of the rear face is covered at least partially by a material, in particular a textile, of lower porosity than that of the porous material, locally reducing the absorption capacity of the porous material.

Preferably, the porous material is fixed to a wall of the housing, for example by gluing, welding, or using a fixing by an added element, or by clamping or pinching.

When the application element comprises a net or a membrane covering the porous material, this net or membrane can contribute to retaining the porous material in the housing.

The application can be done by transfer, by pressing the applicator on the surface to be made up, as mentioned above.

Description of figures

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which follows, of non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which:

There is a perspective view from behind of an applicator according to the invention,

There is a top perspective view of the applicator of the ,

There represents in isolation, in perspective from above, an example of a first variant of the application element,

There represents in isolation, in side perspective, an example of a second variant of the application element.

An applicator 1 of longitudinal axis X according to the invention is illustrated by FIGS. 1 and 2. This applicator 1 is intended to apply cosmetic product to the lips of a user, following the contour of the lips. This applicator is for example ergonomic, and adapted to the reliefs of a specific zone of the face, in particular to the lips.

The cosmetic product is for example a lip makeup product such as a lip coloring product. The product is in fluid form, in particular in liquid or gel form. As a variant, the cosmetic product is formed by a solid or a cream.

As illustrated by FIGS. 1 and 2, the applicator 1 defines a surface 16 for applying the cosmetic product to the lips. The surface 16 has a shape complementary to that of the lips of a user, having a central region 42 projecting capable of coming between the two lips and a peripheral line 44 having a shape following the contour of the lips of the user.

The central region 42 comprises two surfaces 48a, 48b lower and respectively complementary in shape to the upper lip and to the lower lip of a user. The surfaces 48a, 48b are separated by an intermediate projection 40 forming a crest zone 25, in particular a crest line, intended to be inserted between the upper and lower lips and extending substantially along a longitudinal axis A curved outwards. of the applicator. The surfaces 48a, 48b can be flat or concave outwards following the shape of the line separating the user's lips. They have, for example, an upper cavity corresponding to the upper lip, and a lower cavity corresponding to the lower lip.

An application element 10 comprising a porous material 8, alveolar, is placed in the housing 22 of a connecting member 5, and impregnated with the cosmetic composition.

The porous material 5 is preferably an injected foam, for example a polyurethane (PU) foam or a polyethylene (PE) foam.

The applicator element 10 may have a volume (in the unimpregnated state) of between 10 and 200 cm ³ , better still between 20 and 150 cm ³ , even better still between 30 and 100 cm ³ .

The application element 10 may have a large width of between 30 and 100mm, better still between 40 and 80mm and a small width of between 5 and 30mm, better still between 4 and 20mm.

The applicator 1 comprises a gripping system 20 at the rear formed by a connecting member 5 connecting two gripping elements 4a, 4b located on either side of the application element 10 and extending parallel to the longitudinal axis X, from the spacers 2, 3 respectively connecting the gripping elements 4a, 4b to the connecting member 5.

Each gripping element 4a, 4b defines a respective gripping surface 6a, 6b enabling the user to hold the applicator when applying the product. Preferably, the gripping elements 4a, 4b are separated by a distance L ₁ of between 40 mm and 70 mm. The gripping surfaces can be inclined with respect to the longitudinal axis X, in particular by converging towards the application surface 16.

One or more distinctive signs, such as a brand and/or a first name, can be registered on the gripping system, for example for the recognition of the brand and/or the owner. The gripping system can be manufactured for example by micro-machining or by 3D printing.

The application element 10 can have a maximum height H _T of between 10 and 40 mm, for example of the order of 30 mm. The porous material 8 preferably has a flat rear face 11 and the front face 12 matches the shape of the user's lips.

In the example shown in Figures 1 and 2, the applicator element only comprises a porous material, but it could be otherwise. For example, the rear face 11 of the application element 10 could be a non-porous film.

The connecting member 5 comprises a skirt of elongated cross-section perpendicular to the longitudinal axis X, for example of rectangular or oval profile. The skirt forms a side wall 18 laterally delimiting a housing 22 for mounting the applicator element in the gripping part 20. The internal face of the skirt defines the periphery 26 of the housing 2 and the external face of the skirt 17 forms the visible face of the connecting device.

The bottom 24 of the housing can be opened or closed by a bottom wall forming in particular a bearing surface for the rear face of the applicator element inserted into the housing 22 and fixed thereto, for example by force fitting. or by gluing.

The application element 10 protrudes outward from the housing 22 from the periphery 26 to its free edge 19 defining the crest zone, a centering lug 7, possibly engaged in the porous material, facilitating the positioning of the applicator 1 between the lips and ensuring its self-centering relative to the lips.

The porous material is engaged in the housing 22 over the entire height H ₁ of the housing, emerging over a height H ₂ greater than or equal to the height H _{1 ,} the heights being measured along the longitudinal axis X. Thus, the porous material is clamped in the housing 22. Generally, this clamping action may correspond to a difference in width of between 0.02 mm and 0.3 mm between the inner side face of the housing and the outer side face of the porous material.

On the , the porous material 10 is produced by 3D printing entirely in silicone elastomer.

On the , the porous material 10 is a bi-material material with a front soft layer 52 which defines the application surface 16 and a rear hard layer 51. The soft layer 52 can in particular be: (a) a molded silicone layer to control the surface finish and improve the result of the stamping, (b) a layer cut to measure, in particular by laser, to match the shape of the hard layer 51 of the applicator and glued thereto, (c) a silicone layer or in 3D printed polyurethane. The hard layer 51 can in particular be made of ceramic by 3D printing.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described. For example, the support is made with other materials or other shapes.

Claims (12)

Cosmetic applicator (1) of longitudinal axis (X) for applying a cosmetic product to the lips of a user defined by a contour of the lips and by a line of separation between an upper lip and a lower lip, the applicator (1 ) comprises a gripping system (20) and an application element (10) comprising a porous material (8) having a rear face (11) and a front face (12), opposite the rear face and defining a surface of application (16) of a shape complementary to that of the lips of the user, the application surface (16) being delimited by a peripheral line (44) following the contour of the lips and by a crest zone (25) able to come into engagement between the upper lip and the lower lip, facing the line of separation, characterized in that the gripping system (20) comprises a connecting member (5) connecting two gripping elements (4a, 4b) arranged opposite each other with respect to the longitudinal axis (X) and configured to be gripped tightly between two fingers of a user, each gripping element delimiting an external gripping surface (6a, 6b) intended to come into contact with the fingers and the connecting member (5) defines a central housing (22) open at its distal end, the application element being partially inserted into the housing (22), the face back (11) of the application element (10) being oriented towards a bottom (24) of the housing (22) and the front face (12) of the application element (10) projecting entirely outside the housing (22). Applicator (1) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the application element (10) has a shape personalized to the lips of the user. Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least part of the application element (10) is located between the gripping elements (4a, 4b). Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application surface (16) is impregnated with the cosmetic product. Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the rear face (11) of the application element (10) bears in at least one central location of the bottom (24) of the housing ( 22). Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each gripping element (4a, 4b) is held apart from the connecting member (5) by a spacer (2, 3). Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a centering lug (7), extending along the longitudinal axis (X) of the applicator, is fixed to the center of the face front (12) of the application element (10). Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the front face (12) of the application element (10) comprises an elastically compressible material defined by a Shore hardness of between 30A and 60A. Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application element (10) has a longitudinal section along the longitudinal axis (X) that is concave towards the outside, in particular a profile in the shape of a circular arc. Applicator (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the connecting member (5) is delimited by a side wall (18) holding the application element (10) in place and defining the periphery (26) of the housing (22). Cosmetic process comprising the operations consisting in: (i) Providing an applicator (1) according to claim 1, (ii) Seizing the two opposite gripping elements (4a, 4b) between two fingers, (iii) Optionally, positioning the lug (7) between the upper lip and the lower lip, (iv) bringing the front face (12) of the application element into contact with the lips, (v) pressing the application surface (16) against the lips. Method according to Claim 11, characterized in that it comprises a preliminary operation consisting in (vi) carrying out an optical acquisition of at least part of the surface of the lips of a person, and carrying out, from at least optical acquisition, a personalized applicator (1) according to claim 1 or a mold used to manufacture it.