FR3110421A1 - Narcissus poeticus extract for its cosmetic use - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as a cosmetic agent, in particular to protect the skin against oxidative stress or to soothe skin discomfort, for example in sensitive or reactive skin.

Description

Extract of Narcissus poeticus for its cosmetic use

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic active agents.

TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

The skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions. This organ is made up of several layers of tissue. We distinguish (i) the epidermis which is the outermost part of the skin, (ii) the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix which ensures the functions of cohesion and nutrition of the skin, and (iii) the hypodermis consisting of adipocytes.

The epidermis is made up of several cell layers of keratinocytes. We distinguish, among others, the germinative layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, the cutaneous stem cells, the spiny layer, Stratum spinosum, made up of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum , comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the grains of keratohyaline, and finally, the stratum corneum, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleate cells and rich in keratin called corneocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of differentiation of keratinocytes.

The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation. Cellular regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation in which the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different strata of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum below. the form of corneocytes.

As a barrier organ, the skin is constantly subjected to external aggressions such as solar radiation, wind, cold, heat, and pollution, but also to sources of aggression resulting from lifestyle such as consumption of cigarettes or alcohol or a diet rich in saturated fatty acids. These aggressions generate excess, potentially harmful free radicals. When the body can no longer neutralize them, these radicals can damage membrane lipids, key extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin, and DNA and even decrease the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin cells including fibroblasts and keratinocytes. This process, called oxidative stress, can lead to impaired barrier function and premature aging of the skin.

From a cosmetic point of view, these alterations result in a change in the appearance of the skin and its mechanical properties: the skin is less smooth, even rough. Its microrelief is more marked, and may show fine lines, which can lead to the formation of deep wrinkles over time. We can also observe a loss of elasticity and firmness, a less luminous complexion. As the barrier function is altered, a loss of skin density and the development of dryness or even skin dehydration can also be observed. The skin can also become more sensitive or even reactive, leading to the appearance of redness or temporary burning and discomfort that manifests itself, in particular, by feelings of tightness or tingling.

To combat the effects of oxidative stress, it is generally recommended to administer antioxidants or antiradicals topically. These are mainly chemical molecules, enzymes (SOD, catalase) or trace elements (selenium, zinc). It is also recommended to use moisturizing agents as well as soothing agents to reduce skin sensitivity.

There still exists, at present, a need for new cosmetic agents capable of preventing or treating the deleterious effects of oxidative stress and relieving sensitive and reactive skin.

According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as an active agent with a cosmetic effect. The extract can be obtained from aerial part such as flowers, leaves, stems and combinations thereof. Preferably, it is an extract of Narcissus poeticus flowers, for example an absolute obtained from Narcissus poeticus flowers .

In certain embodiments, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is used as an agent for protecting the skin or one of its appendages against oxidative stress, in particular as an antiradical agent.

In other embodiments, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is used as an antiaging agent, in particular as a protective agent against photoaging, or as a soothing agent.

The Narcissus poeticus extract is typically applied to the skin or one of its appendages in the form of a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermocosmetic. The Narcissus poeticus extract can represent from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.

In a further embodiment, the Narcissus poeticus extract is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition to prevent, delay and/or treat one or more signs of aging of the skin or one of its appendages . The sign(s) of skin aging include in particular the appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles on the skin, in particular on the lips and eyelids, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, alteration of the smoothness of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, alteration of the contour of the face, alteration of the sheath or the hair color, and their combinations. In another embodiment, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition to relieve skin discomfort in sensitive, reactive or atopy-prone skin. Narcissus poeticus extract can be used to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness, tingling, itching, skin dryness or dehydration, and/or transient redness.

In a particular embodiment, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is present in a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition further comprising at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-dark spots agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, exfoliating agents or exfoliants, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof.

The cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition can be of any type and can be chosen in particular from aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple : W/O/W or O/W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in a phase aqueous using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams and ointments. For example, the composition can be chosen from a cosmetic product, a make-up product, a perfuming product, or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, in particular a day cream or a night cream, a gel-cream, a care water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a stick, a mascara, a lipstick a lip gloss, a lip balm, a mousse, a deodorant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a care oil, a cleansing oil, a nail varnish, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, a product exfoliant or exfoliant, an eau de toilette or a perfume.

According to an additional aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an extract of Narcissus poeticu s, preferably as defined previously, as cosmetic active ingredient and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to prevent or treat skin aging or to treat or prevent skin discomfort in sensitive, reactive or atopic skin.

According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as an antioxidant agent for protecting a cosmetic composition, a perfume or a perfumery or cosmetic ingredient against oxidation. The Narcissus poeticus extract can also be used as a fragrance in said cosmetic composition or said perfume.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Narcissus poeticus , also called poet's narcissus, and referred to in the present application by the term narcissus, is a bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family which grows in spring in damp mountain meadows. Narcissus poeticus flowers are white with a white central crown edged in red. Narcissus poeticus is present in Europe, particularly in Switzerland and France (mainly in Aubrac, in the Massif Central and in the Vosges). Narcissus absolute is used in perfumery to provide a green, floral, animal and oily note. It is used in the composition of several prestigious perfumes.

To the Applicant's knowledge, the prior art does not disclose or suggest the use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as a cosmetic agent, in particular as an antioxidant, antiradical or soothing agent. To the Applicant's knowledge, the extracts of Narcissus poeticus are used, at most, as a fragrance in cosmetic compositions.

The Applicant prepared several extracts from wild narcissus flowers harvested in the Aubrac meadows using an eco-responsible technique based on the use of a harvester developed by the Applicant. The harvesting technique used makes it possible to reduce the arduousness of the harvest, to maintain the quality of the harvested flower, and to respect the wild natural resource and biodiversity without altering the harvest of fodder to come.

The Applicant has in particular prepared two absolutes. The first absolute was obtained by extraction with hexane and the second by extraction with ethyl acetate.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has identified that these extracts, initially intended for perfumery, possessed very interesting cosmetic properties.

The Applicant has thus shown that extracts of narcissus flowers have very high antioxidant properties: the extracts tested very effectively neutralize free radicals (DPPH test), and inhibit lipid peroxidation, and therefore protect membrane lipids against oxidative stress. The Applicant has also shown that narcissus extracts are capable of neutralizing nitric oxide or nitric oxide radicals, the main target of which are proteins containing metals, intercellular thiols and low molecular weight thiols such as glutathione. . These radicals are particularly involved in the phenomena of apoptosis and inflammation and participate in cell senescence.

It is noted that the extracts of Narcissus poeticus proved to be as effective, or even more effective, than the control compounds tested, namely essential oil of everlasting flower or tocopherol, in neutralizing free radicals in the DPPH test, lipoperoxidation and nitric oxide radicals.

The Applicant has also shown that Narcissus poeticus extracts are capable of inhibiting the production of inflammation mediators, in particular that of interleukin-8 (IL-8) by dermal fibroblasts.

In view of these results, the extracts of Narcissus poeticus find applications in the cosmetics field as an active agent.

The extracts of Narcissus poeticus can be used in particular to protect the skin against oxidative stress, for example as antiradical agents and to prevent or treat skin aging, in particular photoaging.

Narcissus poeticus extracts can also be used as soothing agents, in particular for sensitive and reactive skin.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as an active agent with a cosmetic effect.

The term “active agent with a cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or active agent with a cosmetic effect ” means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages.

The term " cosmetic effect " means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and/or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, at protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) , or to prevent and/or correct non-pathological alterations of the skin or its appendages. The cosmetic use according to the invention does not encompass the prevention or treatment of pathologies, in particular skin pathologies.

“ Non-pathological alteration of the skin or its appendages ” is understood to mean any non-pathological modification of the visual appearance or of the mechanical properties of the skin or its appendages. Non-pathological alterations may result, in particular, from skin aging, fragility or sensitivity of the skin (so-called sensitive or reactive skin) or exposure of the skin to certain external conditions, for example certain climatic conditions ( exposure to solar UV, cold, wind) or pollution (atmospheric pollutants, nanoparticles).

Within the meaning of the invention, the term “ skin ” designates any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and the eyelids, the scalp, the neck, the skin of the hands and the skin of the feet. Skin appendages include nails, body hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and hair, preferably hair.

As detailed below, the Narcissus poeticus extract according to the invention is preferably administered topically, that is to say applied to an area of the skin, including the scalp, or one of its annexes. It is preferably an area of healthy skin, that is to say not having any wounds or skin pathologies.

According to an additional aspect, the extracts of Narcissus poeticus can be used as functional ingredients, more precisely as antioxidant agents in cosmetic compositions, perfumes and in raw materials or ingredients for cosmetics or perfumery.

1. Extract of Narcissus poeticus according to the invention

In the context of the present invention, the term “ narcissus extract ” is understood to mean any extract obtained from a plant material derived from the species Narcissus poeticus L. 1753 (hereinafter referred to as Narcissus poeticus ), also called poetic narcissus .

All subspecies or varieties of Narcissus poeticus are included within the scope of the present invention, in particular Narcissus poeticus subsp . Poeticus , Narcissus poeticus subsp . Radiiflorus , Narcissus poeticus Recurvus and Narcissus poeticus subsp . Verbanensis .

In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is obtained from wild plants of Narcissus poeticus .

It goes without saying that the extract of Narcissus poeticus is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say that it is not toxic when used at the usual concentrations in cosmetic products or perfumes.

Narcissus extract preferably refers to an extract obtained from an aerial part of the Narcissus poeticus plant. It can be an extract obtained from leaves, flowers, stems and combinations thereof.

Preferably, extracts obtained from a plant material comprising bulbs, in particular, in a dormant state, are not included in the present invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the narcissus extract is obtained from flowers, preferably fresh, of Narcissus poeticus .

The Narcissus poeticus extract can be obtained by any known technique, in particular by hydrodistillation, steam distillation, extraction with an organic solvent, preferably volatile, or else by extraction using supercritical CO ₂ .

In a particular embodiment, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is a liposoluble extract, that is to say consisting mainly (that is to say of at least 50%, 60%, 70%, 80% , 90%, 95% by weight relative to the dry weight of the extract) of lipophilic compounds.

In a preferred embodiment, the Narcissus poeticus extract is an absolute.

In the context of the present invention, the term "absolute" means any extract of plant material that can be obtained by a process comprising:

a) an extraction step with a volatile organic solvent of the plant material so as to obtain a concrete containing both odorous molecules and waxes, and

b) a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain the absolute.

As indicated above, the plant material preferably consists of one or more aerial parts of the Narcissus poeticus plant. Preferably, these are fresh flowers.

In step a), the plant material is typically macerated in a volatile organic solvent. A sufficient volume of solvent is used to cover the plant material. The volume of solvent to be used is generally 3 to 10 liters of solvent per kg of plant material per maceration cycle and can vary depending on the starting plant material, solvent and extractor used.

After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered. The maceration step can be carried out at a temperature of between 10° C. and 50° C., preferably from 15° C. to 45° C., for example at room temperature, and can last from several minutes to several hours. The maceration time can be between 5 and 80 min, preferably between 10 and 60 min, for example 15 to 45 min and depends on the solvent used. For example, when the organic solvent is ethyl acetate, maceration times preferably of at least 35 min are used. Shorter soak times can be used with hexane type solvents.

The maceration implementation conditions are adjusted according to the organic solvent used and the characteristics of the starting plant material.

The maceration step can be repeated, typically 1 to 5 times, e.g. 1, 2 or 3 times. At the end of the first maceration, the plant matter is recovered and returned to macerate in an organic solvent. After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered and combined with the liquid phase recovered after the first maceration. Preferably, the same solvent is used in the different stages of maceration. The maceration time may be shorter in the additional maceration stage(s).

The organic solvent is removed from the liquid phase by evaporation (for example by concentration under vacuum) so as to obtain the concrete. The concrete typically comes in a pasty or solid form rich in odorous molecules and waxes.

Step b) aims to eliminate the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the absolute. Different strategies can be used to eliminate the waxes, i.e. to obtain the absolute on one side and the waxes on the other.

The absolute can be recovered by carrying out an extraction by supercritical CO ₂ : the constituent molecules of the absolute are extracted by supercritical CO ₂ and recovered by modulation of the pressure and the temperature of the fluid.

An alternative solution is to remove the waxes by taking advantage of their difference in hot and cold solubility in alcohol. The solution obtained is homogenized, if necessary hot (for example at a temperature below 60° C.) then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. Waxes can be removed by filtration. The absolute is then obtained from the filtrate collected by eliminating the alcohol, for example by concentration under vacuum.

When this technique of precipitation of waxes with an alcohol is used to implement step b), some of the odorous molecules of interest can be trapped in the precipitated waxes, and therefore lost.

In order to improve the absolute yield, an additional step can be carried out to recover the odorous molecules trapped in the precipitated waxes. Typically, the precipitated waxes are taken up in alcohol or in the hydroalcoholic solution, homogenized hot, precipitated cold and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until a satisfactory exhaustion of the waxes is obtained.

The alcohol used in step b) and in the optional wax exhaustion step can be any type of lower C2-C5 alcohol, in particular ethanol. Preferably, a bio-based ethanol (i.e. a bio-ethanol) or a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 90% by volume of bio-based ethanol is used in step b).

The solvents typically used to obtain a concrete according to step a) are alkanes or cycloalkanes.

The Applicant has shown that other moderately polar solvents such as ethyl acetate can be used to carry out the maceration step.

Thus, in a particular embodiment, the absolute according to the invention is obtained by extraction using a solvent chosen from the group consisting of C3-C7 esters and C5-alkanes and cycloalkanes. C7. Thus, the solvent can be chosen from pentane, hexane, heptane, cyclohexane and their isomers, methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate , butyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the solvent used is chosen from pentane, hexane, heptane, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate and their mixtures.

The process for preparing an absolute of Narcissus poeticus may comprise one or more steps additional to those mentioned above, in particular steps of washing and/or grinding the starting plant material or even additional purification steps, for example by molecular distillation or fractional distillation, by precipitation and/or by extraction, in particular liquid-liquid or solid-liquid extraction, or else by extraction with supercritical CO2. Additional purification steps can be performed to improve the odor profile of the absolute or eliminate color.

Moreover, as indicated above, steps a) and/or b) can be repeated as needed, for example to increase the yield.

The method may also comprise a step of formulating the absolute of Narcissus poeticus , for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, in particular a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or carrier. For example, the extract according to the invention can be diluted in a suitable organic solvent, encapsulated in a vectorization system, for example liposomes, or even adsorbed on a solid vehicle.

In certain embodiments, the Narcissus poeticus extract may comprise from 10% to 65% by weight of volatile compounds, in particular from 15% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

These volatile compounds can in particular be identified by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) or by CG/MS, typically carried out on an apolar column, for example according to the conditions presented in example 2.

In a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises from 3% to 25%, preferably from 5% to 20%, of benzyl alcohol derivatives such as benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate and benzyl salicylate.

In an additional embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises from 1% to 15% of alpha-terpineol, preferably from 2% to 10% of alpha-terpineol.

In another additional embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 6% of eucalyptol, phenyl ethyl alcohol and coumarin.

The percentages mentioned above correspond to the area percentage represented by the peak (or peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound of interest (or chemical compounds of interest) relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis.

Narcissus poeticus extract may also include polyphenols. The polyphenols can represent from 0.5% to 15% in gallic acid equivalence by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, the polyphenol content being determined by the Folin-Ciocalteu method.

By way of example, an absolute of Narcissus poeticus obtained by extraction with hexane can comprise from 0.5% to 5% of polyphenols whereas an absolute of Narcissus poeticus obtained by extraction with ethyl acetate can comprise from 8% to 15% of polyphenols, the percentages being expressed as gallic acid equivalent by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

The Narcissus poeticus extract may comprise from 10% to 60%, preferably from 20% to 50% or even from 30% to 40% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds. The unsaponifiable compounds include in particular phytosterols, fatty acids and tocopherols.

In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 40% by weight of fatty acids expressed as methyl ester equivalents, the main fatty acids being palmitic acid, linoleic acid and acid linolenic.

In other embodiments, the extract according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 4% by weight of sterols, the main sterols being clerosterol, beta-sitosterol and delta-avenasterol.

2. Uses , processes and compositions cosmetics according to the invention

As indicated above, the Applicant has shown that the extracts of Narcissus poeticus are powerful antioxidant agents, in particular antiradical agents.

Thus, according to a particular aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus , in particular of an absolute of Narcissus poeticus as a protective agent against oxidative stress (also called oxidative stress) at the level of the skin, in particular at the level of the epidermis and/or of the dermis, or at the level of one of the appendages of the skin.

As indicated above, oxidative stress in the skin can be induced by any type of external aggression, in particular solar radiation (UVA, UVB), heat, cold, wind, exposure of the skin and its annexes to pollutants such as nanoparticles, heavy metals, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons or even volatile organic molecules but also by way of life (consumption of alcohol, cigarettes and/or unbalanced diet, particularly rich in fatty acids saturated).

In a particular embodiment, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be used as an antioxidant agent, preferably to neutralize reactive oxygen or nitrogen species such as free radicals, oxygenated ions and peroxides at the level of the skin, in particular at the level of the epidermis and/or the dermis.

The extract of Narcissus poeticus can be used as an antiradical agent, that is to say as an agent capable of neutralizing, trapping or preventing the formation of free radicals in the skin, or even as agent for inhibiting lipoperoxidation at the cell membrane of skin cells, in particular keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

Narcissus poeticus extract can also be used to prevent or treat alterations in the cutaneous extracellular matrix caused by oxidative stress.

More generally, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be used as an agent for preventing or treating one or more non-pathological alterations of the skin induced by oxidative stress.

In another particular embodiment, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is used as a protective agent for the skin against pollution.

The term “ protective agent against pollution ” is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of preventing skin damage likely to be induced by exposure of the skin to pollutants such as cigarette smoke, atmospheric particles, volatile organic compounds and heavy metals.

In a further embodiment, Narcissus poeticus extract is used as an anti-aging agent. It can be used in particular as a protective agent against photoaging.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term “ anti-ageing agent ” is understood to mean a cosmetic active agent having a biological activity making it possible to prevent or treat a sign of skin aging.

“ Preventing a sign of skin aging ” means the fact of delaying or preventing the appearance of the sign of skin aging.

The term " treating a sign of skin aging " means the fact of reducing, attenuating, blurring, correcting or slowing down the development of the sign of skin aging.

“ A sign of skin aging ” means any alteration or modification of the visual appearance or the mechanical properties of the skin, non-pathological, resulting from aging, whether chronological (chrono-ageing) and/or photo -induced (photo-ageing). A sign of skin aging therefore refers to a non-pathological alteration or modification of the appearance or mechanical properties of the skin.

By “ photoaging ” is meant premature aging of the skin resulting from exposure of the skin to the rays of the sun, in particular to UVA and UVB rays. Exposure to sunlight can induce an overproduction of free radicals in the skin, and therefore oxidative stress causing damage to skin cells and the extracellular matrix. This damage can result in non-pathological alterations in the appearance and/or mechanical properties of the skin.

Signs of aging, whether photoaging or chronoaging, include, but are not limited to, thinning of the skin, particularly of the epidermis, the appearance of microrelief, appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles on the skin, including on the lips and eyelids, withering or sagging of the skin, loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, skin pigment spots, dark circles around the eyes, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin contractility, loss of skin elasticity, impaired the smooth appearance of the skin, an increase in the roughness of the skin, an alteration of the contour of the face, or even an alteration of the sheath or the color of the hair.

By way of example, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be used in the cosmetic context for:

- prevent, reduce or treat wrinkles, and/or fine lines, and/or

- improve the radiance of the complexion or even out the complexion, make the complexion brighter, and/or

- limit the appearance of pigment spots, and/or

- prevent, reduce or treat dark circles, and/or

- rejuvenate aging skin, and/or

- smooth the skin, or limit or prevent skin roughness, and/or

- correct age-related thinning of the skin; and or

- prevent the alteration of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular a loss of density of the skin, a loss of firmness of the skin, a loss of tonicity of the skin, or even a loss of elasticity of the skin, and/ Or

- prevent or improve the contour of the face, and/or

- prevent and/or treat alteration of the sheath or color of the hair, and/or

- prevent or treat dry skin and hair, and/or

- maintain or strengthen the barrier effect of the skin.

In certain embodiments, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is used as an antiaging agent in an individual at least 30 years old, preferably at least 40 or even 45 years old.

The Applicant has shown that the extract of Narcissus poeticus is capable of preventing the production of inflammation mediators in the fibroblasts.

Thus, according to an additional aspect, the invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as a soothing or calming agent.

The term “soothing or calming cosmetic agent ” means a cosmetic active agent capable of relieving, namely of reducing the discomfort of the skin and/or of the scalp.

The term “ skin discomfort ” is understood to mean a set of unpleasant sensations, unrelated to a pathology, such as sensations of tightness, tingling, itching or heating, sensations of dry or dehydrated skin, transitory redness.

These sensations are not linked to a pathology and can be induced by certain external factors (for example prolonged exposure to the sun, wind or cold), by certain cosmetic treatments (for example by too frequent washing with water limestone or with a hydroalcoholic solution, aggressive cosmetic treatments such as peeling, shaving, exfoliation, hair removal, coloring, permanent) or be associated with so-called sensitive, hypersensitive, reactive, intolerant or even atopic-prone skin.

The term “sensitive, reactive or intolerant skin” is understood to mean skin characterized by a disproportionate reactivity to external factors which causes skin discomfort. This increased reactivity may result from a non-pathological alteration of the barrier function of the skin which reduces the tolerance threshold of the skin vis-à-vis external stimuli.

The phenomenon of sensitive skin can be accentuated by certain internal causes such as hormonal changes at the time of menopause or pregnancy, or even stress, lack of sleep and poor diet, but also by external factors such as climatic conditions (wind, cold, solar radiation), pollution (nanoparticles, ozone), and certain cosmetic treatments such as peelings, shaving, or hair removal, in particular laser.

The term “ atopic- prone skin ” is understood to mean sensitive skin in an individual who has suffered from atopic dermatitis, and/or having an allergic background, that is to say having a history of allergy and/or having a family history of allergy

Thus, Narcissus poeticus extract can be used to calm or soothe sensitive, reactive or atopic-prone skin.

Narcissus poeticus extract can also be used to prevent or relieve skin discomfort resulting from exposure to an external factor such as wind, cold, heat, sun, in particular UVA/UVB rays, pollution in particular nanoparticles, certain chemical agents such as detergents, too frequent washing, and cosmetic treatments such as shaving, waxing, peeling, scrubbing, coloring or perming the hair.

The extract of Narcissus poeticus can also be used to make the skin more tolerant vis-à-vis external aggressions such as the sun, the wind, the cold or pollution or certain cosmetic treatments as mentioned above.

Specifically, Narcissus poeticus extract can be used to:

- reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness, tingling, irritation and/or itching, and/or

- reduce the urge to scratch and/or

- reduce, relieve or prevent sensations of skin dryness or dehydration, and/or

- treat or prevent transient redness, and/or

- reduce, relieve or prevent skin or scalp discomfort, and/or

- increase skin tolerance, and/or

- improve or maintain the barrier effect of the skin and/or

- make the skin less rough and/or more supple.

especially in a subject with sensitive, reactive skin with atopic tendency.

In the uses according to the invention, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be applied to any part of the skin or its appendages, including the scalp and the hair.

The Narcissus poeticus extract is typically integrated into a cosmetic, dermocosmetic or dermatological composition.

The Narcissus poeticus extract is present in said composition as an active cosmetic agent.

It goes without saying that said cosmetic, dermocosmetic or dermatological composition is also a subject of the present invention.

The Narcissus poeticus extract generally represents from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% or from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. By way of example, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can represent from 0.01% to 3.0%, for example from 0.01% to 2.0% or even from 0.01% to 1.5% or further from 0.05% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Said cosmetic, dermocosmetic or dermatological composition may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. The cosmetically acceptable excipients can represent from 50% to 99.9999% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.999%, more preferably from 70% to 99.995% or from 80% to 99.99%.

The composition may also comprise one or more additional active principles with a cosmetic effect.

Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:

• from 0.0001% to 10% Narcissus poeticus extract,
• from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents, and
• from 70% to 99.9999% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients,

the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, said composition comprises

from 0.001% to 5% by weight of Narcissus poeticus extract,

from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.998% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In other embodiments, said composition comprises:

from 0.005% to 5% by weight of Narcissus poeticus extract,

from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.994% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In a further embodiment, said composition comprises:

from 0.01% to 5% by weight of Narcissus poeticus extract,

from 0.01% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.98% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In another embodiment, said composition comprises:

from 0.01% to 2% by weight of Narcissus poeticus extract,

from 0.5% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.49% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

The term “active ingredient with a cosmetic effect , active agent with a cosmetic effect , cosmetic agent or active ingredient with a cosmetic effect ” means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The term " cosmetic effect " means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and/or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, at protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) , or to prevent and/or correct phenomena related to their aging.

Thus, in certain embodiments, the Narcissus poeticus extract may be present in a cosmetic composition which also comprises an additional active principle with a cosmetic effect.

This additional active principle with a cosmetic effect can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, sun filters and screens, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, tensing agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, firming agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, lipid-replenishing agents, exfoliating or exfoliating agents, matting agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, anti-dark spot active agents, slimming agents, draining agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition may comprise an active agent chosen from an anti-wrinkle agent, an anti-redness agent, a moisturizing active agent, a lipid-replenishing agent, a soothing agent, an anti-spot agent, a filter or a sunscreen, and combinations thereof. .

By way of example of moisturizing agents, mention may be made of urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper salts (Copper PCA) , magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG- 10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, hydrolysates of silk, keratin or soy, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and/or polyphenols, for example extracts of Aloe, blueberry ( Centaurea cyanus ), and combinations of these.

As lipid-replenishing or nourishing agents, mention may be made of vegetable oils such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, macadamia oil , shea butter, fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides.

Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, panthenol, bisabolol, extracts of aloe, marigold ( Calendula officinalis ), birch (eg Betula alba ), oat or willowherb ( Epilobium angustifolium ).

By way of example of antioxidant agents, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, BHT (Butyl Hydroxy Toluene), vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, vitamin E and its derivatives, or an extract of willowherb ( Epilobium augustifolium ) .

As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example extracts of Ruscus , as well as certain essential oils, for example of lavender or rosemary. .

Examples of anti-stain agents include extracts such as liquorice ( Glycyrrhyza glabra ), jackfruit extract ( Artocarpus heterophyllus ), Rumex extract ( R.occidentalis ), plant extracts belonging in the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional plant extract, in addition to the extract of Narcissus poeticus . The plant extract can be of any type. It may be in particular an essential oil, an extract obtained by decoction, extraction or maceration using an organic solvent such as an alkane, an ester, an ether, or a glycolic solution or even by supercritical fluid extraction.

These extracts can have antioxidant, soothing, anti-aging or lightening (anti-stain) properties or be present to bring a fragrant note to the composition.

It can be in particular an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus , Swertia chirata , vanilla, cypress, jasmine, iris, gentian, or even an essential oil of ginger, everlasting flower, bay leaf , geranium, patchouli, vetiver, lemongrass, sandalwood, rose, or nutmeg.

The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the cosmetic composition may be chosen from diluents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents such as polycationic polymers or phospholipids, gums, resins , solvents in particular lower alcohols including ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerine, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, colorants, odor absorbers, pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, surfactants active agents including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol, wetting agents nts, dispersing agents, perfumes, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils, fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentonites, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylenes, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and/or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.

Narcissus poeticus extract can be incorporated into any type of composition. Preferably, it is a composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin, the scalp, the hair, or the nails. Said cosmetic composition may be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O /W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm, of aqueous gels, of dispersions or else of a powder.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a milk, a cream, an ointment, a balm, a gel, a mousse, a solution, or ointment.

More generally, the composition according to the invention can also be in the form of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product of any type. It may be a cosmetic treatment, a perfuming composition, or a make-up or body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, a skincare water, a pomade, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a mascara, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a mousse, a deodorant, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, a washing oil, a soap, a shampoo or a conditioner, a hair mask or oil, and an exfoliating or exfoliating product or nail varnish, a toilet water or perfume.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the extract of Narcissus poeticus may be present as a cosmetic agent in a day cream intended for mature skin.

Narcissus poeticus extract can be present as an anti-ageing agent in a regenerating serum intended for the face or neck.

By way of additional example, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be present as a soothing agent in a repairing balm intended for dry, irritated or atopic-prone skin.

In certain embodiments, the extract of Narcissus poeticus is present in the cosmetic composition in association with a vectorizing agent. In some embodiments, the Narcissus poeticus extract is formulated, using a delivery system. The vectorization system can be chosen from the group consisting of micelles, liposomes, lamellar systems, lipid or polymeric vesicles, micro or nanoparticles of natural or non-natural polymers.

In certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention is intended to protect the skin, the scalp or the hair from the effects of oxidative stress, or to prevent or treat skin aging, including photoaging.

In other embodiments, the composition according to the invention is intended for sensitive, reactive or atopy-prone skin.

An additional object according to the invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method, comprising the administration of a cosmetically effective quantity of the extract of Narcissus poeticus , preferably topically, to said individual. The extract is typically applied to the area to be treated in the form of a composition or cosmetic product described above. The targeted cosmetic effect is any of the cosmetic effects described above. It may in particular be a process for:

- protect the skin or one of its appendages against the effect of oxidative stress, and/or

- prevent or treat a non-pathological alteration of the skin or one of its appendages

related to aging, in particular photo-induced aging or chrono-ageing, and/or

- to treat or prevent skin aging,

The extract of Narcissus poeticus is then used to exert an antioxidant effect, in particular an antiradical effect and/or to inhibit the lipoperoxidation of the membranes of the cutaneous cells.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic process according to the invention is for relieving or preventing skin discomfort, in particular feelings of irritation, tingling, tightness, itching, dry skin, or dehydrated skin or skin redness or also to maintain or improve the skin barrier function in a subject with sensitive skin. The extract of Narcissus poeticus is then used as a soothing or calming agent and/or to modulate or normalize the inflammatory response at the level of the cells of the skin, in particular fibroblasts of the dermis.

In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the extract of Narcissus poeticus vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the area of application (skin or appendix), characteristics of the individual, in particular gender, age and skin type.

Typically, the Narcissus poeticus extract can be applied at least once a week, or even 2 to 3 times a week and even daily, when the area to be treated is the scalp and/or the hair.

By way of additional example, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be applied once or twice a day, typically in the morning and/or in the evening, when the area to be treated is an area of skin of the body, neck, face , or hands.

By way of example, to obtain an anti-ageing or calming effect on the face, the patient can apply a dose of 0.5 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition comprising from 0.05% to 0.5%% by weight of extract of Narcissus poeticus on his face, morning and evening.

The treatments described above can last several weeks, even several months.

3 . Uses of extracts from Narcissus poeticus as functional agents

According to a further aspect, the subject of the invention is the use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as a functional ingredient, more precisely as an antioxidant agent in cosmetic compositions, perfumes or ingredients intended for perfumery. or cosmetics.

Indeed, the DPPH test has shown that the extracts of Narcissus poeticus according to the invention are particularly effective in neutralizing free radicals. Thus, the Narcissus poeticus extract according to the invention can be used as an excipient or functional ingredient in order to prevent, inhibit or delay the oxidation of the ingredients present in a cosmetic composition or perfumes. The extract according to the invention can thus be used as a functional agent for neutralizing radicals and/or preventing oxidation reactions within a cosmetic composition or a perfume.

In other words, the extract according to the invention can be used to stabilize cosmetic compositions, perfumes and ingredients.

For example, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be used to prolong the stability and the life of perfumes, that is to say to preserve the olfactory properties and the appearance of a perfume over time. It can also be used to extend the stability and life of an ingredient sensitive to oxidation, used in cosmetics or perfumery.

For example, an extract according to the invention can be used to prolong the stability and the life of cosmetic compositions, for example by preserving the color and the organoleptic properties, in particular the touch, and the smell of the cosmetic composition during time. By way of additional example, the extract according to the invention can be used to protect the fatty phases present in cosmetic compositions against lipid peroxidation.

The Applicant has also shown that the extracts according to the invention, in particular the absolutes obtained by extraction with hexane or with ethyl acetate, exhibited an interesting olfactory profile. Thus, the extract of Narcissus poeticus can be present both as an antioxidant agent and as a fragrance in a cosmetic or perfume composition.

Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following examples, which should be considered as illustrative and in no way as limiting.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of Extracts of Narcissus poeticus

The extracts of Narcissus poeticus were prepared from fresh flowers harvested in the mid-mountain hay meadows of Aubrac (Lozère). The flowers were harvested using a prototype self-propelled harvester developed by the Applicant which makes it possible to reduce the arduousness, maintain the quality of the flower picked, respect the wild natural resource without altering the harvest of fodder to come. on the meadow, and to carry out the harvest in the shortest possible time to pick at the optimum flowering time. This harvester can harvest up to 500 kg of flowers per day.

Two absolutes of Narcissus poeticus were obtained as follows:

Absolute Hexane

Fresh wild Narcissus poeticus flowers harvested in Aubrac (Lozère) were macerated in hexane (approximately 4 to 8 L per kg of flowers) at room temperature for at least 35 min. The mixture was decanted and the liquid phase and the flowers were separated. The flowers were macerated twice in hexane for a shorter time. The liquid phases of the three macerations were combined and the hexane was evaporated so as to obtain the concrete

The concrete was then taken up in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized, slightly heated then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. The mixture was then filtered. The filtrate was collected. The waxes were taken up in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized while hot, cooled so as to precipitate the waxes and filtered. This step was repeated twice.

The collected filtrates are combined and the solvent evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the absolute. The overall yield is slightly less than 0.1%.

Absolute ethyl acetate

A similar protocol was carried out by replacing hexane with biobased ethyl acetate at the rate of about 4 to 8 L of solvent per kg of flowers. The ethanol used to obtain the absolute was also biosourced. Two maceration stages instead of three were carried out with a minimum extraction time of 35 minutes. The overall yield is slightly lower at 0.1%

Example 2: characterization of extracts of Narcissus poeticus

- GC analysis/ FID

The extracts are characterized by gas chromatography analysis coupled with mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The conditions of the analysis are as follows:

Agilent HP-1ms column (polar, 100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60m x 250 µm x 0.25 µm), oven programming: 60°C for 10 min then 2°C/min up to 300°C and plateau 20 min

The table below shows the distribution of the volatile compounds present in the two absolutes according to the invention. For each compound, the percentage indicated corresponds to the area percentage of the peak corresponding to the chemical compound of interest compared to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis.

Absolute "hexane" Absolute “ethyl acetate” Benzyl alcohol <5% <5% Benzyl acetate <2% <2% Benzyl benzoate 5-15% 5-10% Benzyl salicylate <2% <2% Total benzyl alcohol derivatives 5-20% 5-20% Phenyl ethyl alcohol <2% <2% Eucalyptol <2% <2% Alpha Terpineol 2-10% 2-10% Coumarin <2% <2%

- Dosage of total polyphenols

Total polyphenols were quantified by the Folin-Ciocalteu method. This method is based on the oxidation of phenolates by the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent leading to the formation of a blue complex quantifiable by spectrophotometry. The results are expressed in gallic acid equivalent.

The extracts were diluted to 1 mg/ml in ethanol. Then they were diluted to 100 μg/ml using milliQ water. Gallic acid was used as a standard, at concentrations ranging from 12.5 μg/mL to 200 μg/mL in a 10% ethanol solution.

To 1000 μL of gallic acid samples or dilutions, 100 μL of Folin-Ciocalteu's reagent and 300 μL of 20% sodium carbonate solution were added. For blanks, the reagent and sodium carbonate solution were replaced with 400 μL of water. After 40 minutes in the dark, 200 μl of each sample and blank were deposited in triplicate on a 96-well microplate and the absorbance was read at 720 nm (Biotek cytation1) according to the spectrometer used. Two or three independent titrations were performed depending on the samples.

The polyphenol concentration is expressed in gallic acid equivalent using the following polynomial regression:

[gallic acid]% = a*(Abs720nm) ³ + b*(Abs720nm) ² + c*(Abs720nm) + d, with d=0.

Results :

Hexane absolute contains 1.3% polyphenols while ethyl acetate absolute contains 10.3% polyphenols.

- Additional scans

Additional analyzes were carried out on the absolute of Narcissus poeticus obtained by extraction with hexane. The results are as follows:

Content of unsaponifiable matter – (method by extraction with diethyl oxide - NF EN ISO 3596): 36.6 g/100g of extract

Total sterol content (NF EN 12228): 1.23 g/100 g of extract. Main sterols: clerosterol, beta-sitosterol and delta-avenasterol.

Fatty acid content by generation of methyl esters and analysis by GPC (NF EN ISO 12966-2 AND 12966-4): 30.5 g/100 g of extract expressed as equivalent of methyl esters. Main fatty acids: linoleic acid, linolenic acid and palmitic acid.

The analyzes concerning the fatty acid content were also carried out for ethyl acetate absolute. This absolute contains a fatty acid content of 20 g/100 g of extract, with linoleic acid, linolenic acid and palmitic acid being the main fatty acids.

Example 3: Evaluation of the antioxidant properties of extracts of Narcissus poeticus

- E evaluation of antiradical activity (DPPH test)

The purpose of this test was to evaluate the antiradical activity of the extracts according to the invention. The DPPH test is a colorimetric test aimed at determining the ability of an ingredient to neutralize the DPPH° free radical (2,2- dip henyl -1- pycryl hydrazyl radical). This radical is purple in its free form and yellow when neutralized by an antiradical agent. The test consists in monitoring the decrease in the absorbance of the reaction medium at 540 nm. The alpha-tocopherol is used as a positive control and the reactive medium alone as a negative control.

The extracts of Narcissus poeticus are diluted at 1% or 0.5% by weight in ethanol. Then, 500 µL, 250 µL, 125 µL, 62.5 µL or 25 µL are added to ethanol qs 2000 µL.

The α-tocopherol (90% purity) is dissolved at 200 μg/mL in ethanol. Then, 500 µL, 250 µL, 125 µL, 62.5 µL or 25 µL are added to ethanol qs 2000 µL.

For all the dilutions of the extracts of Narcissus poeticus and of the α-tocopherol, a blank is carried out with 500 μL of ethanol. The negative control is obtained by adding 500 µL of solution comprising DPPH • in 2000 µL of ethanol.

The DPPH • solution is prepared at 5.6×10 ⁻⁴ M in ethanol and 500 μL are added to the various samples. The tubes are shaken and placed in the dark for 30 minutes.

3 samples of 200 µl are taken from each tube after 30 min in the dark, and placed in a microplate. The absorbance at 540 nm is immediately read and the radical effectiveness of the extracts according to the invention is determined according to the formula below.

% antiradical efficacy ( _[x],t ) = (1-[(A _[x],t –white)/(max (A _[t-],t )– white)]) x 100

with,

A _[x],t : the absorbance of the ingredient (here the extract) at a determined time and at a determined concentration, in the presence of DPPH.

white: the absorbance of the ingredient and the solvents, without DPPH.

max (A _[t-],t ): the maximum absorbance of the negative control at the determined time corresponding to 0% of the DPPH radicals ^• neutralized = reactive solution without ingredient

As an additional check, the free-radical effectiveness of immortelle essential oil, known for its anti-radical and anti-aging properties, was determined using the same process.

Table 2 below presents the results obtained.

Concentration
(% mass) Absolute hexane (invention) Absolute ethyl acetate (invention) Immortelle essential oil 0.2% 91.4% 96.7% 66.5% 0.10% 59.9% 94.5% 56.7% 0.05% 38.6% 92.7% 44.1% 0.025% 23.7% 76.2% 33.9% 0.01% 13.1% 38.8% 22.2% 0.005% 8.1% 21.3% -

It is noted that the extracts of Narcissus poeticus have a high radical activity, much higher than that of the essential oil of immortelle.

- E evaluation of lipid peroxidation inhibition activity

Membrane lipids are constantly subjected to oxidative stress. Reactive oxygen species are able to extract hydrogen present on the unsaturated fatty chains, which initiates the process of lipid peroxidation leading to the alteration of the cell membrane.

The objective of this test was to evaluate the ability of Narcissus poeticus extracts to inhibit lipid peroxidation in the presence of oxygen catalyzed by hemoglobin according to the method of Kuo et al (J Agric Food Chem. 1999; 47(8 ):3206-9). The model lipid used is linoleic acid. Helichrysum essential oil and alpha-tocopherol were used as positive controls. Extracts were tested in a concentration range of 0.001-0.1%.

Each extract was added to a phosphate solution (K ₂ PO ₄ KOH, 0.2M) containing linoleic acid (0.1M). The reaction was initiated by adding a solution of hemoglobin (0.08% in water). The tubes were maintained at 37° C. for 60 min and the reaction stopped by adding a dilute HCl solution at 0.6% in ethanol. The hydroperoxide formed is determined according to the ferric thiocyanate method by adding 30% ammonium thiocyanate and 0.02M ferrous chloride to the medium. The absorbance at 490 nm is then measured.

The percentage inhibition was calculated according to the equation:

% inhibition = ((A ₀ -(A ₁ -A ₂ ))/A ₀ ) x 100

In which,

A _0: Absorbance of the negative control (reaction medium without extract)

A ₁ : Absorbance of the reaction medium

A ₂ : Absorbance of medium without hemoglobin

The IC50, that is to say the concentration in mass percentage allowing to obtain an inhibition of 50% is determined.

The results obtained are as follows:

Ingredients Lipid peroxidation IC50(%) Immortelle essential oil 0.058±0.002 Absolute hexane (invention) 0.077±0.002 Absolute ethyl acetate (invention) 0.032±0.001 Tocopherol 0.005

Narcissus poeticus extracts inhibit lipid peroxidation with an efficacy (IC50) of the same order of magnitude as that of immortelle essential oil.

- Evaluation of the antiradical effect with respect to the radical nitric oxide

NO radicals mainly target metalloproteins and thiols such as glutathione. Peroxynitrite can induce damage at the DNA level, nitration of tyrosines at the protein level and peroxidation of cell membrane lipids. Nitric oxide and its derivatives are therefore key players in oxidative stress at the cellular level.

The antiradical activity of the extracts according to the invention was determined by the method described in Sreejayan, and Rao, J Pharm Pharmacol.1997 Jan;49(1):105-7

At physiological pH of 7.2, sodium nitroprusside (SNP) decomposes in aqueous solution and generates NO •. Stable products (nitrate and nitrite) are produced when NO • reacts with oxygen under aerobic conditions, which can be determined using Griess' reagent.

The extracts were tested at a concentration of 0.1% by weight. 500 μL of sodium nitroprusside (SNP) (25 mM) was incubated with 500 μL of extracts at 37°C for 2.5 h under normal light exposure. After incubation, the samples were kept in the dark at room temperature for 20 min. Then 500 μl of Griess reagent was added and the absorbance was measured at 546 nm after 40 min.

The percentage of NO• inhibition was calculated as follows:

% inhibition = ((A ₀ -(A ₁ -A ₂ ))/A ₀ ) x 100

with,

A ₀ : absorbance of the negative control

A ₁ : Absorbance of the reaction medium

A ₂ : Absorbance of medium without SNP

- Results

NO inhibit
(% inhibition at 0.1% DM) Absolute Hexane 61 Absolute Ethyl Acetate 65 Tocopherol 70

The extracts of Narcissus poeticus exhibit an antiradical activity against the NO radical of the same order of magnitude as that of tocopherol.

- Modulation of the inflammatory reaction dermal fibroblasts by the extracts according to the invention

The objective of this study was to determine the effect of Narcissus poeticus extracts on the synthesis of interleukin 8 (IL-8) in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF).

Material and method :

NHDFs are fibroblasts isolated from human dermis (30-year-old female) and commercial cells. They are maintained in a specific medium composed of DMEM (Sigma, D5523) containing 10% serum (Sigma, F7524), 1% antibiotics (penicillin / streptomycin / Sigma, P0781) and 1% L-glutamine (Sigma, G7513) at 37°C under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity.

The NHDFs were seeded at a concentration of 2.10 ⁴ cells/well in microplates in supplemented DMEM medium. After one day, the supplemented medium was removed and the cells were treated with IL1-alpha, to induce the presence of IL-8 in the presence/absence of the extracts to be tested or of the positive control (hydrocortisone). At the end of the incubation period, the IL-8 was quantified by a commercial ELISA test in the supernatant. A cell viability test was also performed.

The ELISA test was carried out according to the supplier's instructions, particularly with regard to the antibody dilutions to be used. Quantification of IL-8 was performed by measuring absorbance at 450 nm with a correction at 540 nm.

The results are expressed as percentage of IL-8 synthesis relative to cell viability. The data obtained and the percentage changes were subjected to the Student's test for paired data. The statistical significance value is p<0.05.

- Results

The results are shown in the table below:

% IL-8 production relative to cell viability Positive control (activation with IL1) 100 Negative control
(no activation with IL1) 5 ^10-5 % hexane absolute 79 Absolute hexane at 10 ^-4 % 80 Hydrocortisone 0.025 µg/ml 56

The extract according to the invention reduces the production of IL8 by dermal fibroblasts stimulated by IL1 by 20%. The extract according to the invention is therefore capable of modulating and normalizing the inflammatory response of human dermal fibroblasts stimulated by IL-1.

EXAMPLE 4 : Examples of cosmetic compositions comprising an extract of Narcissus poeticus

Skin aging prevention cream

Trade name Chemical name % in weight Deionized Water Water QSP100 Dissolvine Na Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.3 Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Lecigel Lecithin sodium acrylate copolymers 1.75 Cetiol CC dicaprylyl carbonate 3.00 Sweet Almond Oil Sweet almond oil 5.00 Vitapherole E1000 Tocopherol and sunflower oil 0.20 Pentiol Green Pentylene glycol 1.0 narcissus extract flower extract Narcissus poeticus 0.1

anti-aging cream

Trade name Chemical name % in weight Deionized Water Deionized water QSP100 Dermofeel® PA-3 Sodium phytate and water and alcohol 0.10 Unicert Red 07004-J
Solution 0.1 Water and CI 14700 0.15 Satiaxane™ VPC 911 xanthan gum 0.75 Biophilic™ H MB Hydrogenated lecithin and C12-C16 alcohols and palmitic acid 4.00 Dermofeel® Toco 70 Tocopherol and sunflower oil 0.10 SCB Macadamia Oil Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 1.00 Schercemol™CO Ester Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 9.00 BRB DM 350 Dimethicone 0.50 Cirebelle 505 Synthetic wax 1.00 Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl Esters 4.00 Lipex Illipesoft™ Shorea Stenoptera (Illipe) Seed Butter 4.00 Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 1.5 Verstil® PC Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol 1.10 narcissus extract flower extract Narcissus poeticus 0.15 SKINectura™ Glycerin and water and Anigozanthos flavidus extract 2.00

After Sun Soothing Body Spray

Trade name Chemical name % in weight Deionized Water Deionized water QSP100 Dermofeel® PA-3 Sodium phytate and water and alcohol 0.10 Glycerine Glycerin 2.00 ^EcogelTM Lysolecithin & Sclerotium Gum & Xanthan Gum & Pullulan 0.60 Heliofeel ^TM Glyceryl Citrate Stearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate and Hydrogenated Lecithin 2.50 Dub Inin ^TM Isononyl Isosonanoate 5.00 Vitapherole E1000 Tocopherol and sunflower oil 0.10 Versatile® PC Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol 1.00 Narcissus extract flower extract Narcissus poeticus 0.2

Perfume composition

Trade name Units /1000 Bergamot essential oil 150 E flower extract from Narcissus poeticus 2 Fresh ginger essential oil 3 Liffarome Toco (IFF) 5 Geranium essential oil 20 Methyl dihydrojasmonate 190 Benzyl salicylate 100 Coumarin 30 Iso Gamma Super Toco (IFF) 170 Ambermore Ex (IFF) 30 Ethylene brassylate 300

Claims (16)

Cosmetic use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as an active ingredient with a cosmetic effect for healthy skin. Cosmetic use according to Claim 1, the extract of Narcissus poeticus being used as an agent for protecting the skin or one of its appendages against oxidative stress, in particular as an antiradical agent. Cosmetic use according to Claim 1, the extract of Narcissus poeticus being used as an anti-aging agent, in particular as a protective agent against photoaging, or as a soothing agent. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the extract of Narcissus poeticus is obtained from an aerial part such as flowers, leaves, stems and combinations thereof, preferably flowers. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the extract is an absolute obtained from the flowers of Narcissus poeticus . Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the extract of Narcissus poeticus is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition for preventing, delaying and/or treating one or more signs of skin aging or one of its annexes. Cosmetic use according to Claim 6, in which the sign or signs of skin aging are chosen from the group consisting of: the appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles on the skin, in particular on the lips and eyelids, a loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, impaired smoothness of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, an alteration of the contour of the face, an alteration of the sheath or the color of the hair, and their combinations. Cosmetic use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the extract of Narcissus poeticus is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition for relieving skin discomfort. Cosmetic use according to claim 8, the extract of Narcissus poeticus being used to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness, tingling, dryness or dehydration of the skin, and transient redness, to improve or maintain the barrier effect of the skin and/or increase skin tolerance. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Narcissus poeticus extract is present in a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition further comprising at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-dark spot agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, gumming or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Narcissus poeticus extract is present in a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/ E) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm , aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams , ointments, gels, foams, and pomades. Cosmetic use according to Claim 11, in which the composition is chosen from a cosmetic product, a make-up product, a perfuming product or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, in particular a day cream or a night cream, a gel-cream, a care water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a mascara, a stick , lipstick, gloss, lip balm, mousse, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, care oil, cleansing oil, nourishing mask, shower gel , and an exfoliating or exfoliating product, an eau de toilette or a perfume. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an extract of Narcissus poeticus , preferably as defined in one of Claims 2 or 3, as cosmetic active ingredient and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for preventing or treating skin aging or to treat or prevent skin discomfort in sensitive, reactive or atopic skin. Use of an extract of Narcissus poeticus as an antioxidant to protect a cosmetic composition, a perfume or an ingredient for cosmetics or perfumery from oxidation. Use according to claim 14 wherein the extract of Narcissus poeticus is also used as a fragrance. Use according to claim 14 or 15, wherein the Narcissus poeticus extract is as defined in any one of claims 4 or 5.