FR3104967A1 - Hair treatment process - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment process The present invention relates to a hair treatment method comprising: (i) a step of application to the hair, of a cosmetic care composition comprising: - one or more anionic alkyl (amido) ethercarboxylic surfactants, - one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and - one or more organosilanes, and (ii) a step of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, said steps (i) and (ii) being carried out successively, the time separating said steps (i) and (ii) being at most 60 minutes.

Description

Hair treatment process

The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, consisting in applying in sequence, a cosmetic, in particular hair, care composition comprising one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and one or more organosilanes, and a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants.

The hair can be weakened or damaged by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and/or hair straightening. To remedy these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care that can bring conditioning to the hair. These hair care compositions can be conditioning shampoos or conditioners which can be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick creams.

To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known to introduce into them conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions that undergo, more or less repeatedly, hair fibers.

For this purpose, it has already been proposed to use, inter alia, organosilanes in cosmetic care compositions, to give the hair satisfactory conditioning properties. Such compositions are for example described in patent applications FR2910276, EP2343042 and EP2111848.

However, the care compositions described in these documents provide conditioning and disentangling properties which do not last long enough over time. Indeed, these properties are generally not sufficiently resistant to washing and tend to decrease from the first shampoo. In other words, even if these hair care compositions make it possible to obtain suitable results during and just after their use (at T0), it has been observed that these effects tend to disappear as the hair is washed; it was then necessary to regularly renew the application of hair care to maintain adequate conditioning effects.

It was then proposed by application WO2016/083578 a hair care composition for the hair, capable of providing conditioning properties that are not only satisfactory but also persistent on washing, for example persistent at least after 3 shampoos. This care composition includes the association of organosilanes, cationic polymers of high charge density and cationic surfactants; it can give the hair a cosmetic care that lasts for shampoos, in particular softness, suppleness, smoothness, lightness, volume, and a non-greasy and non-charged natural feel. This composition also provides the hair with improved disentangling ability. These properties resist well to the various aggressions that the hair can undergo, such as light, bad weather, washing, perspiration. They are particularly remanent to shampoos, especially after at least 3 shampoos.

It has also been proposed, for example by EP2111849, a hair treatment process comprising the sequential application of a composition comprising organosilanes and of a hair care or washing composition. This document describes in particular the use of a composition comprising an organosilane as a pre-shampoo, that is to say applied to the hair before washing with a shampoo comprising at least one anionic surfactant and one amphoteric surfactant. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain supple and smooth hair, which detangles well.

However, it is still possible to improve the performance provided by the care or shampoo compositions, in particular the cosmetic properties such as detangling and smoothing to the touch, as well as individualization; and this both immediately, during the application of the composition to the hair (at T0), but also in a persistent manner, that is to say after several shampoos, for example persistence after 2 to 4 shampoos .

The care composition according to the invention has improved qualities of use, in particular easier distribution on the hair, and improved rinsing.

At the end of the process according to the invention, the hair is more individualized, smoother to the touch and disentangles easily; they are easier to style.

These cosmetic properties remain with subsequent shampoo, for up to 3 shampoos, without having to reapply the pre-shampoo.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment process comprising:

(i) a step of applying to the hair, a cosmetic care composition comprising:

- one or more alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants,

- one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and

- one or more organosilanes, and

(ii) a step of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants,

said steps (i) and (ii) being carried out successively, the time separating said steps (i) and (ii) being at most 60 minutes.

By “successively” or “in a sequenced manner”, it is meant that the two steps are not carried out at the same time, but that one precedes the other; step (i) can be before or after step (ii).

Thus, step (i) of care can precede step (ii) of washing, it being understood that step (ii) of washing the hair takes place at most 60 minutes after step (i) of care; in this embodiment, the care composition of step (i) can be considered as a pre-shampoo.

The care step (i) can also follow the washing step (ii), it being understood that the care step (i) takes place a maximum of 60 minutes after the washing step (ii); in this embodiment, the care composition of step (i) can be considered as a conditioner.

Thus, according to a first embodiment, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises:

(i) a step of applying to the hair, a cosmetic care composition comprising:

- one or more alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants,

- one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and

- one or more organosilanes, followed

(ii) a step of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants

said step (ii) of washing the hair taking place at most 60 minutes after said step (i).

According to this embodiment, the care composition used in step (i) is a pre-shampoo composition.

According to a second embodiment, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises:

(ii) a step of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, followed by

(i) a step of applying to the hair, a cosmetic care composition comprising:

- one or more alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants,

- one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and

- one or more organosilanes,

said step (i) taking place at most 60 minutes after said step (ii) of washing the hair.

According to this embodiment, the care composition used in step (i) is a conditioner composition.

The hair treatment process according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) consisting in the application to the hair of a cosmetic care composition as defined below. This step may or may not be followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. This step can also optionally be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water. Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step. Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii), in particular when the care step (i) precedes the washing step (ii).

The method according to the invention may also comprise an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii), when the care step (i) follows the washing step (ii).

The hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step (ii) of washing, consisting in the application to the hair of a cleansing cosmetic composition as defined below.

This stage may or may not be followed by a pause stage, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes; especially 2 to 5 minutes. It can also be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step, in particular in the case where step (i) precedes washing step (ii). Preferably, said washing step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and optionally a drying step.

The application step (i) of the care composition and the washing step (ii) are carried out successively, or sequentially, which means that one of the application steps is prior to the other application stage; intermediate steps, for example pause and/or rinsing and/or drying, which may be present between these two steps.

Preferably, the application step (i) is carried out before the washing step (ii).

The time separating said step (i) of applying the care composition and step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it can for example be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better between 3 and 15 minutes, and very particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.

In the present description, the term “care composition” denotes a composition providing hair care, in particular conditioning; it is a cosmetic composition and not a pharmaceutical composition. This composition can also be called pre-shampoo or conditioner, depending on whether it is applied before or after the washing step (the shampoo).

In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted therefor; the expression "included between … and" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from … to " and can be substituted for it, and implies that the terminals are included.

A/ Care composition

The hair treatment process according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) consisting in the application to the hair of a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more cationic polymers and one or more organosilanes.

a) Alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants

The cosmetic care composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not comprising any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants are chosen from alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids (or carboxylates) and/or their salts. They may be chosen from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture: alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (I) below:

R ₁ -(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA

in which:

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C ₈ -C ₉ )alkylphenyl radical, an R ₂ CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ radical - with R ₂ denoting an alkyl radical or C ₉ -C ₂₁ linear or branched alkenyl; preferably R ₁ is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , alkyl radical,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (I), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R ₁ groups.

Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (I) in which:

- R ₁ denotes a C8-C22, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14 alkyl radical, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (I) are used in which R ₁ denotes a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. As examples of salts of amino alcohols, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane. Salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among the commercial products, the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

AKYPO® NP 70 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H),

AKYPO® NP 40 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H),

AKYPO®OP 40 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=4, A=H),

AKYPO® OP 80 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=8, A=H),

AKYPO® OP 190 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=19, A=H),

AKYPO® RLM 38 (R ₁ =C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=H),

AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=Na),

AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=H),

AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na),

AKYPO® RLM 100 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=H),

AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=Na),

AKYPO® RLM 130 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=13, A=H),

AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

or by SANDOZ under the names:

SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=H),

SANDOPAN DTC (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=Na),

SANDOPAN LS 24 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=12, A=Na),

SANDOPAN JA 36 (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=18, A=H),

and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO®RLM 100, and AKYPO® RLM 38.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- alkyl (C6-C24) ethercarboxylic acids and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ethercarboxylic acids, and their salts;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl amidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 1 to 50, in particular from 2 to 10, ethylene oxide groups; and their salts;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferably, the composition comprises said alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 8% by weight. weight, even better from 2 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants described above. Preferably, she doesn't.

b/ Cationic polymers

The cosmetic care composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative.

The term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers capable of being employed preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, or even ranging from 5 to 20 meq/g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

The cationic polymers which can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×10 ⁶ approximately, preferably between 10 ³ and 3×10 ⁶ approximately.

The cationic polymers likely to be employed can be associative or not.

The term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of combining reversibly with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group. In particular, the hydrophobic group can be a fatty hydrocarbon chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

in which:

- R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or else the products called "COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937";

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by cross-linking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUARC13S, JAGUARC15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, d an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) derivatives of polyaminoamides resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may more particularly be made of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name “Cartaretine F, F4 or F8” by the company Sandoz.

(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer /epoxypropyl/diethylene-triamine.

(7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 can designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and of acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

(8) diquaternary ammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

in which :

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,

or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O] y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

Mention may more particularly be made of polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which :

- R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

Mention may be made, for example, of the products “Mirapol® A 15”, “Mirapol® AD1”, “Mirapol® AZ1” and “Mirapol® 175” sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more grounds corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100% by moles of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95% by moles of units corresponding to formula (B) , preferably from 10 to 100% by moles of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90% by moles of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mole.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095 , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

Most particularly preferred are the cationic polymers chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above, better still those of families (1), (7) and (10).

Among the cationic associative polymers likely to be used, mention may be made, alone or in a mixture:

- (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X' -R'

in which :

R and R′, identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X', which are identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function whether or not bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively the group L";

L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group;

r is an integer comprised between 1 and 100 inclusively, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusively and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusively,

n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusive,

the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the chain ends.

A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above in which:

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X, X' each represent a group L'',

n and p are integers which are between 1 and 1000 inclusive and L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:

- n=p=0 (the polymers do not contain units derived from a monomer with an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation),

- the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of isocyanate functions, in excess, at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, that is to say compounds of RQ or R'Q type, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulphate.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine,

n = p = 0, and

L, L’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000 inclusive, in particular between 1,000 and 400,000 inclusive and ideally between 1,000 and 300,000 inclusive.

By hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' can represent one of the following formulas:

in which :

R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, whether or not comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S , O, P;

R1 and R3, which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:

in which :

Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; And

R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, whether or not comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

The groups P and P', comprising an amine function can represent at least one of the following formulas:

in which :

R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously;

R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as R1 and R3 defined above;

R10 represents an optionally unsaturated linear or branched alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P,

and A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as the halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate.

With regard to the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

By way of example, mention may be made, when it is not a question of polymers, of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is, in accordance with a preferred embodiment, a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made by way of example of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters, sulphonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds possessing labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions can be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes proper, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound entering into the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one unit with an amine function. This compound can be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl function, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As indicated above, this compound may contain more than one unit with an amine function. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit with an amine function.

This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas:

HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl-diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound entering into the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

O=C=N-R4-N=C=O where R4 is defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyldiisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

A third compound entering into the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

By way of example, this compound can be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulphate etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane can further comprise a hydrophilic block. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound can be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound can be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

By way of example, mention may be made, when it is not a question of polymers, of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

In the case of a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters, sulphonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In fact, the units with a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or the hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, however, cationic associative polyurethanes having such a group are preferred.

- (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl or branched, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at less than 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, C1-C30, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, C1-C30, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, C8-C30;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, C8-C30; better in C10-C24, or even in C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl (C12) radical. Preferably, the other radical or radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, C8-C30; better in C10-C24, or even in C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl (C12) radical. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Even better, R can be a group chosen from –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- and –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- , preferably a –N ⁺ ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- .

Even better, R' can be a group –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- .

The aryl radicals preferably designate the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Mention may in particular be made of polymers with the INCI name:

- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL.

More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cps.

- (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:

-a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;

-b) at least one monomer of the following structures (Ic) or (IIc):

in which :

- X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,

- R1 and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,

- R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):

- Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,

- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,

- R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,

- p, q and r denote, independently of each other, 0 or 1;

- m and n designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusively from 0 to 100,

- x denotes an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 100,

- Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as the halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate;

provided that :

- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical,

- if m and/or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1,

- if m=n=0, then p or q equals 0.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

Preferably, the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

Preferably R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to zero.

The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which :

- s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6,

- R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,

- R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,

provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and R10 designates a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:

a) a monomer of formula (IVc),

b) a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical, and

c) a monomer of formula (IIc) in which p=1, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical C1-C5.

Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00/68282.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is made in particular of:

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers.

The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is in particular offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name Polyquaternium-55).

The molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000.

- (D) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004/024779.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

- a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters and (meth)acrylic acid,

- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit),

- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

- a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and

- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Such a polymer is, for example, the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

Preferably, the cationic polymers, associative or not, capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium,

- optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4)trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium salts;

- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;

- the cationic polymers (B) derived from quaternized cellulose, and the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) above.

Better still, the cationic polymers are chosen from cationic associative polymers, preferably from cationic polymers (B) derived from quaternized cellulose, and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) above.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) above, in particular those for which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents a trimethylammonium chloride Cl ^- ,(CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ - and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ^- ,(CH ₃ ) ₂ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )N ⁺ -, which corresponds to POLYQUATERNIUM-67.

The care composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.1 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight. weight, even better from 0.4 to 1.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The care composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic associative polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.1 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of anionic surfactants and the total amount of cationic polymers present in the care composition is less than or equal to 6, better still less than or equal to 5.5, even better still less than or equal to 5. , or even less than or equal to 4.5.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of anionic alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic surfactants and the total amount of cationic associative polymers present in the care composition is less than or equal to 6, better still less than or equal to 5.5, even better still less than or equal to 5, or even less than or equal to 4.5.

c/ Organosilanes

The care composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (II) and/or their oligomers and/or their hydrolysis products:

R1Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (II)

in which:

- R1 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon chain, in particular C2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, which may be substituted by a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear alkyl or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, or a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or an aromatic C6-C30 radical); the hydroxy (OH) group, a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; R1 possibly being interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);

- R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,

- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and

- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,

with z+x+y=3,

By oligomer is meant the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (II) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

Preferably, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated, C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, preferably linear, hydrocarbon chain which may be substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R= C1-C20 alkyl, in particular C1 -C6).

Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.

Preferably z varies from 1 to 3.

Preferably, y=0.

Preferably z = 3, and therefore x=y=0.

In one embodiment of the invention, R1 represents a linear alkyl group, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group, preferably C2- C4. More particularly, R1 represents an octyl group.

In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. In this variant, R1 preferably represents a saturated linear C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably methyl.

In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R= C1-C20 alkyl, in particular C1-C6 , C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic). In this variant, R1 preferably represents a C1-C6, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES); 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl- aminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and their oligomers, and/or their mixtures; and more particularly chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and/or their mixtures; and even better chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and/or its hydrolysis products.

Preferably, the organosilane(s) are present in the care composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 7% by weight, better still from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.

d/ Organic acids

The care composition may optionally comprise one or more organic acids, in particular as a neutralizing agent for the organosilane(s).

By organic acid, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an organic acid and / or its associated bases having a pKa less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, ranging in particular from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 at 5.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organic acid or acids are chosen from carboxylic acids, sulphonic acids and mixtures thereof. In particular, the organic acid or acids are chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids. Preferably, the organic acid or acids are chosen from lactic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid , malic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof, and more preferably lactic acid.

The care composition may comprise the organic acid(s), when present, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

e) Amphoteric surfactants

The care composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone. They may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 8 )alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20 )alkyl betaines ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amid(C ₆ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) and (III) below:

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (II)

in which :

- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

- X ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; or else M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (III)

years which:

- B represents the -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX'group;

- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z=1 or 2;

- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';

- Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _{a '} represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (IV):

R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (IV)

in which:

- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';

- R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z'' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

Preferably, the care composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

When they are present in the care composition according to the invention, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.

f/ Nonionic surfactants

The cosmetic care composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178 .

As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylphenols;

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

- C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;

- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,

- alkyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides, alkenyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl esters (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides,

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;

- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;

- N-alkyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )glucamine and N-acyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )-methylglucamine derivatives;

- amine oxides.

The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

The number of moles of ethylene and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.

Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

The nonionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the care composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, better still C10-C32 alcohols, even better C10-C24 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; preferably a single fatty chain;

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, better still C10-C32, even better C12-C24, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycol, in particular comprising 2 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide , better still from 10 to 200, or even from 50 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide.

More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- C8 to C40 alcohols, better still C10-C32 alcohols, even better C10-C24 alcohols, saturated linear, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, comprising a single fatty chain; particular mention may be made of laureth-4;

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, preferably saturated (hydrogenated), comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; particular mention may be made of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil;

- mono- or di-esters of C8 to C30 acids, better still C10-C32, even better C12-C24, saturated linear acids, and of polyethylene glycol, in particular comprising 2 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 10 to 200, or even from 50 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide; mention may in particular be made of PEG-150 di-stearate.

Preferably, the care composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

When they are present, the care composition according to the invention preferably comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight. , preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.

g/ Other ingredients

The care composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with topical application to keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

The care composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the care composition according to the invention comprises a total water content of between 40 and 98% by weight, preferably between 50 and 95%, preferentially between 60 and 92% by weight, even better between 65 and 90% by weight, or even between 70 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the care composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 8, preferentially from 3.5 to 7, and better still from 4 to 6, or even from 4.5 to 5.5.

The cosmetic care composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, chosen in particular from vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; sun filters; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; conservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); coloring matter. The composition can of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list. The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients entering into the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

B/ Washing composition

The hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a so-called washing step (ii), consisting of the application to the hair of a washing cosmetic composition, comprising one or more anionic surfactants.

In known manner, said washing composition, or shampoo, may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants and/or one or more nonionic surfactants.

a/ Anionic surfactants

The cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not comprising any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be sulphate, sulphonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It is of course possible to use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:

- the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulphate and/or sulphonate functions;

- the sulphonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulphonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulphate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; And

- the sulphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulphate function but do not comprise a carboxylate or sulphonate function.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or ^-COO- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C6-30) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.

Among the carboxylic surfactants above, mention may very particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular of ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

R _1' –(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n' –OCH ₂ COOA (1)

in which :

- R _1' represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R _2'CONH -CH2-CH2- with R _2' denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched at C9-C21; preferably R _1' is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

- n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R _{1 '} groups.

Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

- R _{1 '} denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n’ varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R _{1 '} denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

Among the commercial products, the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

AKYPO® NP 70 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

AKYPO® NP 40 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO®OP 40 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 80 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 190 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 (R ₁ =C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 100 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 130 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=13, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

or by SANDOZ under the names:

SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=H)

SANDOPAN DTC (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

SANDOPAN LS 24 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

SANDOPAN JA 36 (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=18, A=H),

and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO®RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe-noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferably, polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

The sulphonate anionic surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulphonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the sulphonate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, in particular C12-C20,

- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

The sulphate anionic surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulphate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- alkyl sulphates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As examples of salts of amino alcohols, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

- C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, in particular C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulphates, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, in particular C12-C20,

- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups;

- C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

in particular in the acid form or of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more sulphate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, in particular C12-C20, and/or one or more C6-C24 alkyl ether sulphates, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

The anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the washing composition in a total amount ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, in particular from 4 to 25% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight, even better still from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

b/ Amphoteric surfactants

The washing composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone. They may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 8 )alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20 )alkyl betaines ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amid(C ₆ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) and (III) below:

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (II)

in which :

- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

- X ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; or else M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (III)

years which:

- B represents the -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX'group;

- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z=1 or 2;

- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';

- Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _{a '} represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (IV):

R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (IV)

in which:

- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';

- R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z'' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the washing composition in a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3/ Nonionic surfactants

The cosmetic washing composition may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylphenols;

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

- C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;

- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,

- alkyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides, alkenyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl esters (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )(poly)glucosides,

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;

- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;

- N-alkyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )glucamine and N-acyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )-methylglucamine derivatives;

- amine oxides.

The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

The number of moles of ethylene and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units.

Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

The nonionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the washing composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide 'ethylene; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

- (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

- C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,:

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide ethylene and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and

- (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

In particular, the washing composition may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type of general formula:

R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; even better glucose;

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

Preferably, the washing composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition.

d/ Other ingredients

The washing composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the washing composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90%, preferentially between 40 and 85% by weight, even better between 50 and 80% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the washing composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6, and better still from 4 to 5.5.

The washing cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, chosen in particular from conditioning agents, polymeric or not; mention may in particular be made of cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones, organomodified silicones such as amino silicones; vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols, ceramides; sun filters; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; conservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); coloring matter. The composition can of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list. The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients entering into the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples which follow (AM=active material).

Example 1

The following care composition according to the invention is prepared (% by weight of active ingredient):

INCI NAME Composition A LAURETH-5 CARBOXYLIC ACID 3.4 COCAMIDOPROPYLBETAINE 1.5 AMINOPROPYLTRIETHOXY SILANE 2 PEG-150 DISTEARATE 1 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED
CASTOR OIL 0.8 LAURETH-4 0.6 POLYQUATERNIUM 67 0.8 NaCl 1 Lactic acid Qs pH 5 Conservatives qs Water Qsp 100% Ratio TA anionic/cationic polymer 4.25

This composition can be used as a conditioner or as a pre-shampoo.

When used as a pre-shampoo, the composition is applied to half a head, on wet hair, mid-length to long, at the rate of 10 g per ½ head. Leave on for 5 minutes then rinse with water.

A commercial shampoo (including in particular NaLES + cocamidopropylbetaine + cocobetaine + cationic guar + PDMS + amodimethicone) is then applied to the entire head, at a rate of 16 g per head, then rinsed with water.

On the ½ head that has not received a pre-shampoo, apply a commercial conditioner (including in particular cationic surfactants BETAC and CETAC + cetearyl alcohol + cetyl esters + amodimethicone) at a rate of 10 g per ½ head, leave ask for 5 minutes, then rinse with water.

The hair is then dried with a hair dryer.

An expert then blindly assesses each side of the head; the evaluation is carried out on 6 volunteers.

Observations at T0 :

- on damp hair (before drying): the hair treated according to the invention is smoother to the touch and more supple, it is less tangled;

- on dried hair: the hair treated according to the invention is smoother to the touch.

Concerning more particularly the criterion of smoothness to the touch, the expert evaluates it blindly, as follows:

- the evaluation of the smoothing is tactile: on each ½ head, we take a lock of hair at the level of the root and we slide it between the fingers over the entire length of the lock to the ends (to be repeated in several places of the half-head).

- the expert evaluates whether the hair has roughness (or not), whether it catches the fingers (or not), and gives a score, ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good), in steps of 0 ,5.

The following results are obtained (average over 6 models):

Invention Comparative p-value Wet hair 3.42 2.58 0.031 Dry hair 3.17 2.33 0.004

At T0, the hair treated with the invention is significantly smoother to the touch than the hair treated with the comparison.

Observations after 3 shampoos (remanence):

After 3 shampoos, it is found that the hair treated according to the invention remains easier to detangle and always seems more coated.

There is a strong contribution of cosmetics on the side tested according to the invention, whether on damp hair or on dried hair: hair smooth to the touch and visually, more coated, homogeneous touch, supple hair, more individualized, easy detangling.

The following results are obtained (average over 6 models):

Invention Comparative p-value Wet hair 2.58 2.00 0.013 Dry hair 2.83 2.00 0.004

After 3 shampoos, the hair treated with the invention remains significantly smoother to the touch than the hair treated with the comparison.

Claims (16)

Hair treatment method comprising:
(i) a step of applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising:
- one or more alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants,
- one or more cationic polymers, preferably associative, and
- one or more organosilanes, and
(ii) a step of washing said hair, comprising the application of a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants,
said steps (i) and (ii) being carried out successively, the time separating said steps (i) and (ii) being at most 60 minutes, in particular between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes , even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better between 3 and 15 minutes, and especially between 4 and 10 minutes. A method according to claim 1, wherein
- step (i) is followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes; and/or a rinsing step, for example with water; and or
- washing step (ii) is followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes; especially 2 to 5 minutes; and/or a rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants of formula (I):
R ₁ -(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA
in which:
- R ₁ represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C ₈ -C ₉ )alkylphenyl radical, an R ₂ CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ radical - with R ₂ denoting an alkyl radical or C ₉ -C ₂₁ linear or branched alkenyl; preferably R ₁ is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , alkyl radical,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. Process according to Claim 3, in which the care composition comprises one or more polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants of formula (I) in which:
- R ₁ denotes a C8-C22, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14 alkyl radical, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10;
preferably in which R ₁ denotes a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more anionic alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- alkyl (C6-C24) ethercarboxylic acids and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ethercarboxylic acids, and their salts;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl amidoethercarboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 1 to 50, in particular from 2 to 10, ethylene oxide groups; and their salts;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises said one or more anionic alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight , preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 2 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more cationic associative polymers, chosen in particular from, alone or as a mixture:
- (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R'
in which :
R and R′, which are identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X', which are identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function whether or not bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively the group L";
L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer comprised between 1 and 100 inclusively, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusively and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusively,
n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusive,
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.
- (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl or branched, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
- (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
-a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
-b) at least one monomer of the following structures (Ic) or (IIc):

in which :
- X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
- R1 and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
- R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):

- Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
- R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,
- p, q and r denote, independently of one another, 0 or 1;
- m and n designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusively from 0 to 100,
- x denotes an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 100,
- Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as the halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate;
provided that :
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical,
- if m and/or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1,
- if m=n=0, then p or q equals 0.
- (D) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers; such as the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
- a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters and (meth)acrylic acid,
- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups , linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof;
preferably, chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, C1-C30, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;
- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, C1-C30, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;
it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the care composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, associative or not, chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium,
- optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4)trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium salts;
- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;
- cationic polymers (B) derived from quaternized cellulose, and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) as defined in claim 8; in particular those for which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents a trimethylammonium chloride Cl ^- ,(CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ - and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ^- ,(CH ₃ ) ₂ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )N ⁺ -. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.1 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 3 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or the care composition comprises the cationic associative polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.1 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight , even better from 0.4 to 1.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the total quantity of anionic surfactants and the total quantity of cationic polymers present in the care composition, is less than or equal to 6, better still less than or equal to 5.5 , even better less than or equal to 5, or even less than or equal to 4.5 and/or the weight ratio between the total quantity of alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic anionic surfactants and the total quantity of cationic associative polymers present in the care composition, is less than or equal to 6, better still less than or equal to 5.5, even better still less than or equal to 5, or even less than or equal to 4.5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from the compounds of formula (II) and/or their oligomers and/or their hydrolysis products:
R1Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y
in which:
- R1 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon chain, in particular C2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, which may be substituted by a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear alkyl or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, or a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or an aromatic C6-C30 radical); the hydroxy (OH) group, a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; R1 possibly being interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);
- R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
with z+x+y=3;
preferably, R1 being a linear or branched, saturated, C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, preferably linear, hydrocarbon chain which may be substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R= C1-C20 alkyl, in particular C1 -C6);
preferably, R2 representing an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, even better still ethyl;
preferably z varying from 1 to 3, better still z=3 and x=y=0. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilane(s) are present in the care composition in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, better still 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants; preferably chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, better still C10-C32 alcohols, even better C10-C24 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; preferably a single fatty chain;
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;
- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, better still C10-C32, even better C12-C24, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycol, in particular comprising 2 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide , better still from 10 to 200, or even from 50 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture,
- C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, in particular C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulphates, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, in particular C12-C20,
- C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;
- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
in particular in the acid form or of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts;
preferentially, the composition comprises one or more sulphate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, in particular C12-C20, and/or one or more C6-C24 alkyl ether sulphates, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.