FR3068241A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF PARTICULAR CARBOXY-LIQUID SURFACTANTS, NONIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AND CATIONIC PO-LYMERS, COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD AND USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - short chain polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, - long chain polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, - nonionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, and - cationic or amphoteric polymers. The invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method using said composition, as well as the use of this composition for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, to give them conditioning properties, advantageously remaining after several shampoos.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in particular for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a particular association of anionic surfactants of the alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic polyoxyalkylenated acids type, and one or more non-surfactants. ionic and amphoteric.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, using said composition, as well as the use of said composition to give said keratin fibers conditioning properties, advantageously persistent in several shampoos.

The hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and / or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straighteners.

To remedy these drawbacks, it is now customary to use hair care compositions which make it possible to condition the hair following these treatments in order to give them in particular shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural touch as well as detangling properties. These hair compositions may for example be conditioning shampoos, compositions to be applied before shampooing (pre-shampooing) or compositions to be applied after shampooing (after shampooing), and which may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick creams.

There are thus known, in particular from applications FR3040300 and FR3040302, hair compositions, in particular intended for cleaning and conditioning the hair, comprising anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and specific cationic and amphoteric polymers. These compositions are very stable in terms of viscosity and visual appearance, and make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties imparted to the hair, in particular their disentangling, their flexibility and their feel.

However, the hair compositions described in the prior art provide conditioning properties which do not last long enough in time, in particular which do not generally resist sufficiently washing hair, and tend to decrease rapidly.

Furthermore, the compositions of the prior art can prove to be difficult to rinse.

There is therefore a real need to provide consumers with a cosmetic composition, in particular for washing, caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, capable of providing non-conditioning properties. only satisfactory but also retentive in washing, for example retentive at least after five shampoos, while being easy to rinse.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective could be achieved thanks to a composition comprising the particular combination of anionic surfactants of the alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic polyoxyalkylenated type, one or more nonionic surfactants and a or more amphoteric surfactants.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (la):

R1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA (la) in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C3-C7 alkyl or alkenyl radical;

- n is a number varying from 2 to 24,

- A denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue;

(ii) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (Ib):

R'1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA '(Ib) in which:

- R'1 represents a linear or branched C11-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9) phenyl alkyl radical, or a radical R'2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R'2 denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched in C8-C21;

- n is a number varying from 2 to 24,

- A ’denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue;

(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants, (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants, and (v) one or more polymers chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof.

It has been found that the composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable in storage both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C, especially in terms of its visual appearance and its viscosity. .

By "stable" is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition which, after two months of storage at a temperature of 20 to 45 ° C, shows no change in appearance, color, odor or viscosity.

The composition can advantageously be transparent, but it can also be pearly, if necessary.

The composition according to the invention has good use properties, in particular quick and easy rinsing.

The composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular for conditioning; it allows in particular to obtain high performance in terms of straightening (smoothness) to the touch and / or visual of the hair, said straightening being perceptible on the whole of the hair, that is to say from the hairline up to 'at their tip (smoothing roots-tips); this "smooth touch" character is particularly representative of a very homogeneous deposit on the fiber.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the disentangling and the flexibility of the hair.

It also makes it possible to obtain a “long-lasting cleanliness” effect, that is to say that the hair has a natural, non-greasy feel, a feeling of “clean” and uncharged deposit, which can last between two shampoos.

The composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for sensitized hair, in particular damaged, split, brittle hair, to which it can bring strength, vitality, even volume, and which therefore appear to be revitalized, repaired, strengthened.

The conditioning properties provided by the composition according to the invention are in particular persistent in shampoos, in particular in at least three, or even five, shampoos.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "going from ... to ...".

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

1 / Anionic surfactants (la)

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (la):

R1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) n-OCH ₂ COOA (la) in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C3-C7 alkyl or alkenyl radical;

- n is a number varying from 2 to 24,

- A denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

Preferably, R1 is a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl radical, in particular a linear C6-C10, in particular C8 (capryl) alkyl radical.

Preferably, n varies from 2 to 16, better from 3 to 12, even better from 4 to 10, or even is equal to 6. Note that "n" is generally an integer or can be decimal (average value).

Preferably, A denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better A denotes H or Na.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt. As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2amino 2 salts -methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, compounds of formula (la) are used in which R1 denotes a linear C8 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, the composition comprises capryleth-6 carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, especially sodium.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the product sold by the company KAO under the name ΑΚΥΡΟ® LF1 (INCI: CAPRYLETH-6 CARBOXYLIC ACID).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid (s) and / or their salts of formula (la) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0, 5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2 / Anionic surfactants (Ib)

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (Ib):

R'1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) n-OCH ₂ COOA '(Ib) in which:

- R'1 represents a linear or branched C11C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9) phenyl alkyl radical, or a radical R'2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R'2 denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C8-C21;

- n is a number varying from 2 to 24,

- A ’denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

Preferably, R’1 is a linear or branched C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14, alkyl radical; in particular a linear C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14 alkyl radical; especially lauryl or cocoyl.

R’1 can also be a linear or branched C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14 alkenyl radical; in particular a linear alkenyl radical in C11-C24, for example in C12-C18, even in C12-C14; in particular oleyl. Finally, R’1 can be a nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical.

Preferably, n 'varies from 2 to 16, better from 3 to 12, even better from 4 to 10, or even is equal to 5. Note that "n'" is generally an integer or can be decimal (average value) .

Preferably, A ’denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better A’ denotes H or Na.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt. As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2amino 2 salts -methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, compounds of formula (Ib) are used in which R’1 denotes a linear C12 alkyl radical, A ’denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ′ varies from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, the composition comprises laureth-5 carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, in particular sodium.

Among the commercial products, one can cite the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

ΑΚΥΡΟ® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)

ΑΚΥΡΟ® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) AKYPO®OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H ) ΑΚΥΡΟ® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38 NV (Ri = C12 alkyl -C14, n = 4, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 CA (R = alkyl ₂ -C _4, n = 4.5, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® NV RLM 45 (R = alkyl C12-C14 , n = 4.5, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 100 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 100 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 130 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 13, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 160 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 16, A = Na), or by SANDOZ under the names: SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = H) SANDOPAN DTC (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = Na) SANDOPAN LS 24 (Ri = alkyl C12-C14, n = 12, A = Na) SANDOPAN JA 36 (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 18, A = H).

In particular, the product sold by the company KAO under the name ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 CA (INCI: LAURETH-5 CARBOXYLIC ACID).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid (s) and / or their salts of formula (Ib) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0, 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (la) and the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (Ib) is greater than or equal to 0.1, of preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, in particular between 0.1 and 10, for example between 0.5 and 8.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (la) and the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (Ib) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, in particular between 1 and 10, for example between 1.5 and 8.

3 / Additional anionic surfactants

Optionally, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts of formulas (la) and (Ib) described above.

However, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise other anionic surfactants (less than 0.1% by weight, in particular 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) than those of formulas (la) and (Ib) above.

The term “anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being anionic when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium , pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphates, and / or carboxylate groups, and / or their mixtures, preferably sulphates.

The additional anionic surfactant (s) may be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and / or propylene oxide (OP) groups can then vary from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 10.

The anionic carboxylic surfactants capable of being used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates can also be used. of C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as pal8 mitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulfonate function.

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates; alkyl sulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates, in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium, or of amino alcohol.

The sulphate anionic surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulphate function.

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulphate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20,

- alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium or calcium salt. As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, the 2-amino 2methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2 salts -methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants, when they are present, are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

- C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, especially C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;

- C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Among the additional anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use one or more sulphated anionic surfactants, preferably chosen from C8-C14 alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates and more particularly those of C12-C14, and very particularly lauryl (ether) sulphates.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactant (s) are in the form of salts, and in particular of alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and / or salts. magnesium. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 groups of ethylene oxide.

More preferably used among these are sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Cu) alkyl sulphates and / or sodium, ammonium or sodium (Ci ₂ Cu) alkyl sulphates magnesium, oxyethylenated, for example 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide.

Better still, use is made of sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ ) alkyl ethersulphates, oxyethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, as marketed under the name TEXAPON N702 by the company COGNIS .

When they are present, the additional anionic surfactants can be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.05 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25%, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of anionic surfactants (of formula (la), of formula (Ib) and additional if necessary) ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0, 5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4 / amphoteric surfactants

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

In particular, the amphoteric surfactants are non-silicone. They may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ C ₂ o) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C8-C ₂ o) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines alkyls and (C8-C alkyl) ₂ o) amidalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines; alone or as a mixture, in particular with the compounds cited below.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the following compounds of respective structures (II) and (III):

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b ) (R _c ) -CH ₂ COO ', M ⁺ , X' (II) in which:

- R _a represents a Cw to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a . COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkaline, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

- X 'is against organic or inorganic anionic ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (Ci-C ₄₎ sulfates, alkyl (Ci-C ₄₎ - or alkyl (Ci-C ₄ ) aryl sulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; or else M ⁺ and X 'are absent;

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (III) in which:

- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ';

- B 'represents the group - (CH ₂ ) _Z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

- X 'represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH ₂ CH (OH) SO ₃ -Z ';

- Z ’represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a represents a Cw to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form , an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, capryl disodium propopropate lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

One can also use compounds of formula (IV):

R _a -NHCH (Y ”) - (CH ₂ ) _n CONH (CH ₂ ) nN (R _d ) (R _e ) (IV) in which:

- Y ”represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH ₂ -CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH ₂ CH (OH) SO ₃ -Z ”;

- R _d and R _e, independently of one another represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical to C _4;

- Z ”represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

- R _a - represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;

- n and η ', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric surfactants, use is preferably made of alkyl (C ₈ C ₂ o) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C ₈ -C2o) amidoalkyl (C3-C ₈ ) betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of lauryl amino diethylaminopropyl succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C ₈ C2o) amidoalkyl (C3-C ₈ ) betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amphoteric surfactant (s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5 / Nonionic surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C24) alkyl phenols;

- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

- fatty acid amides C ₈ to C 30, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ to C 30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;

- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,

- (C ₈ -C ₃ o) (poly) glucosides, alkenyl (C ₈ -C ₃ o) (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C ₈ -C 30) (poly) glucoside alkyl esters,

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide;

- N-alkyl derivatives (C ₈ -C ₃ o) glucamine and N-acyl (C ₈ -C ₃ o) -methylglucamine;

- amine oxides.

The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylenated units.

Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

By way of example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of C ₈ to C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

By way of example of compounds of this type, there may be mentioned, lauric alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, alcohol oleic to 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol to 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol to 2 moles of glycerol, alcohol cetearyl to 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol.

Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to C10 alcohol to one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol to one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol to 1.5 moles of glycerol.

The nonionic surfactant (s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

- Cs to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide ; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

- alkyl (Cs-C3o) (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

- Cs to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

- amides of C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ to C 30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ to C 30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,:

- Cs to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

- esters of Cs to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and

- (C ₈ -C ₃ ) alkyl (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

Even more preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20, especially C10-C18, alkyl chain; in particular lauric alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4) and lauric alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-12), and esters of Cs to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant (s) in a content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of nonionic surfactants is less than or equal to 5; preferably, this weight ratio goes from 0.1 to 5, more preferably goes from 0.2 to 4.5, even more preferably goes from 0.3 to 4, better goes from 0.35 to 3, even better from 0 , 4 to 2.5.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of nonionic surfactants is less than or equal to 1, preferably between 0.1 and 1, better still 0, 2 to 1, and even better from 0.35 to 0.95.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 8 to 40% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

6 / Cationic and / or amphoteric polymers

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polymers chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and their mixtures.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression cationic polymer designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and which does not contain anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers capable of being used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

The cationic polymers capable of being used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:

- ch ₂ -o = o

I x

AT

in which :

R ₃ , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;

A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R ₄ , R _5i R _{6i, which may be} identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

Ri and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4 ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxy-ethyl-trimethylammonium chloride described for example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxy-ethyltrimethyl-ammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

- vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or methacrylate of dialkylaminoalkyl copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or else the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

- dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propyl methacrylamide copolymers quaternized, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci-C4) trialkyl (CiC ₄ ) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with chloride of chloride methyl, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can more particularly be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups such as those described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M ) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as grafted hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, of dimethyldiallylammonium.

The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

(4) Cationic guar gums, in particular those described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.

Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,252,840 and

2,368,508.

(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine copolymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates the methyl, ethyl and propyl radicals. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the polymers of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1 and the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the amine group secondary polyaminoamide between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units of one and / or the other of the following formulas:

in which :

k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

R ₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

R ₇ and R ₈ , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1-C4), or R ₇ and R ₈ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₇ and R ₈ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company NALCO (and its low molecular weight average counterparts) and the chloride chloride copolymers diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550", "MERQUAT 7SPR".

(10) quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

R _w R ₁₂ - N + -A -N + -B.—

I ¹

R- | 1 X R-13 X in which:

R-10, Ru, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else Rio, Ru, R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R10, R11, R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a group nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -COO-R14-D or -CO-NH-Ru-D where Ru is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

AT! and B! represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

Ai, Rio and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

moreover, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group - (CH ₂ ) n-CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) n- in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical

-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X 'is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.

It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (IX):

R.O ^ · 2

--N- (CH ₂ ) —N— (CH ₂ ) - ^ 11 ^ 13 X QX) in which Rio, Ru, R12 and R13, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 atoms carbon approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to approximately 8 and, X 'is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may in particular be made of MEXOMERE PO sold by the company CHIMEX.

(11) Quaternary polyammoniums made up of recurring units of formula (X):

ch ₃ ^x x çh ₃ n - (CH ₂ ) _p —NH-CO — D — NH - (CH ₂ ) _p - N- (CH ₂ ) ₂ - O - (CH ₂ ) ₂ ch ₃ ch ₃ (X) in which p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH ₂ ) _r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X ′ is an anion ;

Among them, there may be mentioned, for example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. These polymers can also include other monomers such as diallyldialkylammonium halides. Mention may be made, in particular, of the product sold under the name Luviquat Sensation by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Cationic polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of “POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE” in the CTFA dictionary, or polyamines of oxyethylenated coconut (15 EO).

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyuretylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12), more particularly the polymers of families (2) and (9), and better among the polymers of family (9).

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), preferably greater than or equal to 4 meq / g, better still greater than or equal to 5 meq / g, for example ranging from 3 to 20 meq / g, in particular from 4 to 20 meq / g, or even from 5 to 18 meq / g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under the conditions where it is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, that is to say the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, and the cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, and even more preferentially, from the homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium 6), copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide (Polyquaternium 7), and homopolymers of 2methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-37).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic polymer (s) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to use one or more amphoteric polymers.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression amphoteric polymer designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, as well as anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

The amphoteric polymer or polymers can be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from a acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type.

Preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer are units with the following structure (la):

ch ₂ (la) in which R! denotes H or CH ₃ , and R ₂ is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH ₂ OH radical.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (la).

The unit derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer of formula (Ia) in which Ri denotes H and R ₂ is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer proper.

Preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium type monomer are units with the following structure (IIa):

ch ₂ (Ha)

Ο N Η

In which:

- R ₃ denotes H or CH ₃ ,

- R ₄ denotes a group (CH ₂ ) k, k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4;

- R ₅ R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl,

- Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (IIa).

Among these units originating from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer of formula (IIa), preference is given to those originating from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R ₃ denotes a methyl radical, k is 3, R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y ′ denotes a chloride anion.

Preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylic acid type monomer are units of formula (Ilia):

R ₈ Ί

CH ₂ (Ilia)

in which R ₈ denotes H or CH3, and R ₉ denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ H.

The preferred units of formulas (Ilia) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid.

Preferably, the unit originating from a (meth) acrylic acid type monomer of formula (IIa) is that originating from acrylic acid, for which R ₈ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₉ denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The acid monomer (s) of (meth) acrylic acid type can be non-neutralized, partially or totally neutralized, with an organic or inorganic base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (Ilia).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of type (i) (meth) acrylamide. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70 mol% of units originating from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%.

The content of units originating from a monomer of type (ii) (meth) acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium can advantageously be from 10 to 60%, preferably from 20 to 55% by moles.

The content of units derived from an acid monomer of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid can advantageously be from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% by moles.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a (i) (meth) acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%,

- from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and

- from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid.

This type of amphoteric polymer can also comprise additional units, different from the units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (meth) acrylic acid type as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers consist only of units derived from monomers of type (i) (meth) acrylamide, of type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium and of type (iii) acid. (meth) acrylic acid.

As an example of amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are in particular marketed under the names MERQUAT 2003 and MERQUAT 2003 PR by the company NALCO.

As another type of amphoteric polymer capable of being used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and chloride of dimethyldiallylammonium. We can cite for example the Merquat 280 offered by the company NALCO.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, and does not comprise an amphoteric polymer.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the amphoteric polymer (s) in an amount of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the polymer or polymers chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers in a total amount of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 , 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7 / Orqanosilanes

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organosilanes.

The organosilane (s) which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:

RiSi (OR ₂ ) z (R ₃ ) x (OH) _y (I) in which

- R! is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1 to C22, especially C ₂ to C ₂ o hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted by one or more group (s) chosen from NH amino groups ₂ or NHR with R being a linear or branched Ci to C ₂ o, in particular to C _6, or a C3-C40 aromatic radical or a CO-C30; the hydroxy group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, substituted or not substituted by an NH ₂ or NHR group; R! can be interrupted by an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen heteroatom or a carbonyl group;

- R ₂ and R _{3, which are} identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,

- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and

- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,

- with z + x + y = 3.

By oligomer within the meaning of the present invention is meant the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched, saturated, C 1 to C 22, in particular C ₂ to C 12, more preferably linear, hydrocarbon chain which may be substituted by one or more amine group (s) NH ₂ or NHR, R being a alkyl to C ₂ o, in particular to C _6.

Preferably, R ₂ represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and in particular the ethyl group.

Preferably z varies from 1 to 3.

Preferably, y is equal to 0. Preferably, z is equal to 3.

Even more preferably, x and y are equal to 0 and z is equal to 0.

In one embodiment of the invention, the organosilane (s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms or a C 1 to C ₆ aminoalkyl group, preferably a C ₂ to C ₄ aminoalkyl group.

Particularly preferably in this embodiment, R 1 represents an octyl group.

In another embodiment of the invention, the organosilane (s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 is a C 1 to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by one or several NH ₂ or NHR amine group (s), R being a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂ o, preferably C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl, a C ₃ to C ₄ o cycloalkyl or a C ₆ to C aromatic ring ₃₀ .

In a particularly preferred manner in this other embodiment, R 1 represents a C ₁ to C ₆ aminoalkyl group, more preferably C ₂ to C ₄ .

Preferably, the organosilane or organosilanes which can be used according to the invention are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminoethyilane -aminoethyl) -3aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, paminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, their hydrolysis products, their oligomers and their mixtures. More particularly, the organosilanes are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, their hydrolysis products, their oligomers and their mixtures; and in a particularly preferred manner, the organosilane is 3 aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).

The organosilanes used in the composition of the invention, in particular those comprising a basic function, can be neutralized, partially or completely, in order to improve their solubility in water. In particular, the neutralizing agent can be chosen from organic or mineral acids, preferably from saturated or unsaturated, carboxylic organic acids, hydroxylated or not; mention may be made of citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and hydrochloric acid, preferably lactic acid.

The composition preferably comprises the organosilane (s) at a content of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably of 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition may comprise the organic or mineral acid (s), when they are present, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8 / Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 40 and 95% by weight, preferably between 50 and 90%, preferably between 60 and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7, better still from 4 to 6.5.

The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise one or more liquid fatty substances, preferably non-silicone, which can advantageously be chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, hydrocarbons, oils of animal origin, vegetable oils, in particular of the type triglycerides, synthetic triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from mineral oils (or hydrocarbons), vegetable oils, in particular of the triglyceride type and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more conventional additives in cosmetics, such as thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic, different from the cationic or amphoteric polymers described above; ceramides; vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric or anionic polymers; pH agents, preservatives; dyes; perfumes. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, using said composition.

The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet.

According to a first particular embodiment, this process consists in particular in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, after a step of washing said fibers, for example with a shampoo. This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a conditioner.

According to a second particular embodiment, this process consists in particular in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, prior to a step of washing said fibers, for example with a shampoo. This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a pre-shampoo.

According to a third particular embodiment, this process consists in particular in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet. This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a shampoo.

The composition according to the present invention is generally applied while respecting an exposure time which can range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

After a possible exposure time, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, possibly subjected to washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention can therefore be used before a shampoo (as a pre-shampoo), as a treatment preferably to be rinsed off after a shampoo (as a conditioner), or even as a shampoo.

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in particular for imparting to said fibers conditioning properties, advantageously remanent to several shampoos; in particular, properties of touch, in particular of soft, natural, uncharged and non-greasy feel, and / or properties of disentangling, smoothing (to the touch and / or visual) and / or flexibility.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Example 1

The following compositions are prepared according to invention A and B, from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.

ingredients Invention A Invention B Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 3.15 1.25 Capryleth-6 carboxylic acid 3 5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.8 3.8 Laureth-4 5 5 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.8 0.8 PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate 4 4 3-Aminopropyl triethoxysilane 2 2 Polyquaternium-6 1.8 1.8 Propylene glycol 4 4 NaCl 1.2 1.2 Preservatives, color, fragrance qs qs PH agents Qs pH 6 Qs pH 6 Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

Compositions are obtained which can be used as a pre-shampoo or as a conditioner.

Example 2

The shampoo compositions according to the invention C and D are prepared, and the following comparative compositions E and F (% by weight MA).

ingredients Invention C Invention D Comparison E Comparative F Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 1.3 3.15 6.3 0 Capryleth-6 carboxylic acid 5.0 3.15 0 6.3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 Laureth-4 5 5 5 5 PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate 4 4 4 4 3-Aminopropyl triethoxysilane 2 2 2 2 Polyquaternium-6 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 NaCl 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Preservatives, fragrance qs qs qs qs PH agents Qs pH 6 Qs pH 6 Qs pH 6 Qs pH 6 Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

Flushability assessment

Beforehand, strands of hair sensitized by bleaching (SA20) are washed with a commercial DOP shampoo at the rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair, and rinsed with water.

The shampoo composition to be tested is then applied to a lock of wet hair, at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair. Leave to stand for 5 minutes then rinse with water (35 ° C, flow rate 300 l / h).

At the time of rinsing, an expert assesses the quality of the rinsing according to the excess deposit which remains on the wick, after 30 passages of the wick between the fingers, under water during the rinsing.

(+++): very easy rinsing (after 30 passages of fingers under water along the wick, one does not feel any more deposit) (++): easy rinsing (after 30 passages of fingers under water the along the wick, we feel a very weak deposit) (+): moderately easy rinsing (after 30 finger passes under water along the wick, we feel a slight deposit) (-): moderately difficult rinsing (after 30 finger passes underwater along the wick, we feel a medium deposit) (-): difficult rinsing (after 30 fingers passes under water along the wick, we feel a significant deposit) ( -): very difficult rinsing (after 30 passages of fingers under water along the wick, we feel a very large deposit)

The following results are obtained:

Rinse after 30 passes Wick C (invention) +++ Wick D (invention) +++ Wick E (comparison) - Wick F (comparison) +++

It is noted that after 30 passages, composition E, which only comprises laureth-5 carboxylic acid as an anionic surfactant, is still not rinsed off.

Remanence assessment

The strands thus rinsed are then subjected to a cycle of 5 shampoos with a DOP shampoo (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair), each shampoo being followed by rinsing with water (35 ° C., flow rate 300 l / h).

After rinsing each shampoo, a panel of 3 experts assesses the detangling criteria, smooth to the touch and flexibility of the locks, on wet hair, giving a score of 0 to 5 (in steps of 0.5).

It is considered that there is persistence as long as the means of the notes are greater than or equal to 2.5, for each of the 3 criteria (smooth, disentangling, flexibility).

The following results are obtained (average):

2SH untangling Smooth 2SH 2SH flexibility Detangling 5SH Smooth 5SH 5SH flexibility C (inv) 5 4 4 3.5 2.5 3 D (inv) 5 4 4 4 3 3.5 E (comp) 5 4 4 4 3 3.5 F (comp) 4.5 3 3.5 2 2 1.5

2SH: results after 2 shampoos / rinsing

5SH: results after 5 shampoos / rinses

It is noted that the compositions according to the invention always exhibit a persistence of the effects after 5 shampoos, while the comparative composition F, which only comprises capryleth-6 carboxylic acid as an anionic surfactant, has no residual effect to 5 shampoos.

Conclusion: it can be seen that only the compositions according to the invention exhibit both good rinsability and persistence of the care effects after 5 shampoos.

Claims (22)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (la): R1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) n-OCH ₂ COOA (la) in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C3-C7 alkyl or alkenyl radical; - n is a number varying from 2 to 24, - A denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and / or their salts, of formula (Ib): R'1- (OC ₂ H ₄ ) n-OCH ₂ COOA '(Ib) in which: - R'1 represents a linear or branched C11-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9) phenyl alkyl radical, or a radical R'2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R'2 denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched in C8-C21; - n is a number varying from 2 to 24, - A ’denotes H, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue; (iii) one or more nonionic surfactants, (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants, and (v) one or more polymers chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. 2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more anionic surfactants of formula (la) in which: - R1 is a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl radical, in particular a linear C6-C10, in particular C8, alkyl radical; and or - n varies from 2 to 16, better from 3 to 12, even better from 4 to 10, or even equals 6; and or - A denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better A denotes H or Na; in particular capryleth-6 carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular sodium. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said at least one polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid and / or their salts of formula (la) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants of formula (Ib) in which: - R’1 is a linear or branched C11-C24, for example C12C18, or even C12-C14 alkyl radical; in particular a linear C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14 alkyl radical; in particular lauryl or cocoyl; and or - n 'varies from 2 to 16, better from 3 to 12, even better from 4 to 10, or even is equal to 5; -A ’denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better A’ denotes H or Na; in particular laureth-5 carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular sodium. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether (amido) ether acid (s) and / or their salts of formula (Ib) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (la) and the amount of surfactant (s) of formula (Ib) is greater than or equal to 0, 1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, in particular between 0.1 and 10, for example between 0.5 and 8; and in particular is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, in particular between 1 and 10, for example between 1.5 and 8. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total amount of anionic surfactants ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight. weight and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - alkyl (C8-C2o) betaines, alkyl (C8-C2o) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8C2o) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines and alkyl (C8-C2o) -amidalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines; - derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized with the following respective structures (II) and (III): R _a -CONHCH2CH2-N ⁺ (Rb) (R _c ) -CH ₂ COO ·, M ⁺ , X '(II) in which: - R _a represents a Cw to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a . COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - R _c represents a carboxymethyl group; M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkaline, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and - X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfates, (CiC ₄ ) alkyl - or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl aryl- sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M ⁺ and X 'are absent; R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (III) in which: - B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '; - B 'represents the group - (CH ₂ ) _Z Y', with z = 1 or 2; - X 'represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH ₂ CH (OH) SO ₃ -Z '; - Z ’represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - _R 'represents an alkyl or alkenyl group of C10 to C ₃₀ of an acid R _a -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, alkyl, particularly C17 and iso form, an unsaturated C17 group. Ra ”-NHCH (Y”) - (CH ₂ ) _n CONH (CH ₂ ) _n -N (R _d ) (R _e ) (IV) in which: - Y ”represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH ₂ -CH (OH) SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH (OH) SO ₃ -Z ”; - R _d and R _e, independently of one another represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical to C _4; - Z ”represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra represents alkyl or alkenyl, _C10-C30 of an acid R _a '-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; - n and n ’, independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂ ) alkyl betaines such as cocobetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C3-C ₈ ) betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate; preferably among (C8-C2o) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines alkyls such as cocamidopropylbetaine. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the amphoteric surfactant (s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant (s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide ; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; - (C8-C30) (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; - fatty acid amides of C8 to C30, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of acids C8 to C30, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18; - the esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - (C8-C30) (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the nonionic surfactant (s) in a content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight , better from 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of nonionic surfactants is less than or equal to 5; preferably ranges from 0.1 to 5, preferentially ranges from 0.2 to 4.5, even more preferably ranges from 0.3 to 4, better ranges from 0.35 to 3, more preferably ranges from 0.4 to 2 5. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactant (s) in a total content ranging from 8 to 40% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers chosen from: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas: in which: R ₃ , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical; A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ₄ , R _5i R _{6i, which may be} identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R! and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. (2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary ammonium groups; (3) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxyalkyl cellu loses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, of dimethyldiallylammonium. (4) cationic guar gums, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, in particular guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium. (5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents; such as adipiquediacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine acid copolymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl and propyl radicals. (8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1 and the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the amine group secondary polyaminoamide between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units of one and / or the other of the following formulas: in which: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R ₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R ₇ and R ₈ , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (Ci-C ₄ ), or R ₇ and R ₈ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₇ and R ₈ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate; More particularly, the homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide. (10) quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to the following formula: ^R io R ₁₂ + -N-N + -A.J -B ..- I ¹ R | - | X R-13 X in which: Rio, Ru, R12 and Rn, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R ₁₀ , Ru, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R _10, R, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represent an alkyl radical Ci-C ₆ linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -COO-Ru-D or -CO-NH-Ru-D group where R _u is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and Bi represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A-ι, R ™ and R ₁₂ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; further if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B! may also denote a group - (CH ₂ ) n-CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. (11) Quaternary polyammoniums made up of recurring units of formula (X): in which p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH ₂ ) _r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X ′ is an anion ; (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole which may also include other monomers such as diallyldialkylammonium halides. (13) Cationic polyamines, oxyethylenated coconut polyamines (15 EO). (14) polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyuretylenes and chitin derivatives; preferably selected from crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, and cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, and even more preferably, from homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, copolymers diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and homopolymers of 2 methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride. 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), preferably greater than or equal to 4 meq / g, better still or equal to 5 meq / g, for example ranging from 3 to 20 meq / g, in particular from 4 to 20 meq / g, or even from 5 to 18 meq / g. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric polymers chosen from: - amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from a acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type; preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer being units of structure (la) as follows: ch ₂ (la) in which R! denotes H or CH ₃ , and R ₂ is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH ₂ OH radical; and / or preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium type monomer being units of structure (IIa) as follows: ch ₂ (Ha) O NH In which: - R ₃ denotes H or CH ₃ , - R ₄ denotes a group (CH ₂ ) k, k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; - R ₅ R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl, - Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate; and / or preferably, the units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid type monomer being units of formula (Ilia): r ₈ CH ₂ (Ilia) in which R ₈ denotes H or CH3, and R ₉ denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ H. - copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: the cationic polymer (s) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition ; and or the amphoteric polymer (s) in an amount between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition ; and or the polymers chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers in a total amount of between 0.01 and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more organosilanes, in particular chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: R1Si (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which: - R1 is a hydrocarbon chain in C1 to C22, in particular in C2 to C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, being able to be substituted by one or more group (s) chosen (s) among the amine groups NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C6 alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic radical; the hydroxy group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, substituted or not substituted by an NH2 or NHR group; R1 can be interrupted by a heteroatom of oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen or a carbonyl group; R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, - with z + x + y = 3. preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which R1 is a C1 to C22 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by one or more amine group (s) NH2 or NHR, R being an alkyl linear or branched from C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C6, or a cycloalkyl from C3 to C40 or an aromatic ring from C6 to C30, and preferably R1 represents an aminoalkyl group from C1 to C6, preferably from C2 to C4. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water with a total content of between 40 and 95% by weight, preferably between 50 and 90%, preferably between 60 and 85% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. 20. Cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in particular dry or damp, preferably wet, using the composition according to one of the preceding claims. 21. The method according to claim 20, comprising in particular: - applying said composition to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, after a step of washing said fibers, for example with a shampoo; or - applying said composition to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, prior to a step of washing said fibers, for example with a shampoo; or - applying said composition to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet. 22. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in particular for giving said fibers conditioning properties, advantageously remanent to several shampoos; in particular, properties of touch, in particular of soft, natural, uncharged and non-greasy feel, and / or properties of disentangling, smoothing (to the touch and / or visual) and / or flexibility.