FR3152990A3 - SKIN CARE COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

SKIN CARE COMPOSITIONS The present invention relates to a composition for treating a keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising: (a) at least one polysaccharide; (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant; (c) at least one co-surfactant. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use thereof, in particular as an emulsion for providing a transforming sensation to the skin. Figure for abstract: none

Description

SKIN CARE COMPOSITIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous material, especially skin, especially for providing the skin with a transforming sensation with good stability. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use thereof.

CONTEXT

The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injuries, microorganisms, and ultraviolet damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and sun exposure.

The feeling of transformation in conjunction with stability are sought after as one of the most desirable properties in the cosmetic/personal care industry.

Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.

It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or materials with a good naturalness index and/or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

As such, consumers are demanding new and improved compositions that are more durable and can provide personal care/makeup products with an improved transformation feel with good stability.

SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

The inventors have discovered that a composition, preferably for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising: (a) at least one first polysaccharide; (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant; (c) at least one co-surfactant, selected from a linear fatty alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms; wherein the monomer of the first polysaccharide carries both a main chain and a side chain and has at least one ionic group or at least one ionizable group in the main chain, which have good stability and are capable of providing a superior transformation sensation.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular the skin. This use can be manifested as a method for treating keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising the steps of application to said keratinous materials.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention for preparing a cosmetic product for treating keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a liquid emulsion, for example, water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) emulsion, water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, optionally further comprising an acceptable active agent or the like.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more clearly apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

As used herein, the term “ionizable group” means any group which, either by its intrinsic chemical nature or as a function of the medium and/or the pH of the medium in which it is present, can be in ionic form.

A "transformation sensation" means the following phenomenon: the product (for example, in the form of a gel or emulsion), which may even be thick, is transformed into a fluid or even water when applied to the skin, as if it were on the skin. During this transformation, an aqueous film is visible (visible water droplets).

First polysaccharides

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first polysaccharide.

The first polysaccharide is a polysaccharide, wherein its monomer carries both a main chain and a side chain and has at least one ionic group or at least one ionizable group in the main chain, wherein the first polysaccharide has the following formula (I):

(I)

• R représente un radical choisi parmi le rhamnose, le mannose, le galactose, l'arabinose, le xylose, le fucose, ou

• M appartient à un groupe ionique ou à un groupe ionisable, représente de préférence un contre-ion dérivé d’un métal alcalin ou d’un métal alcalino-terreux, ou un contre-ion dérivé d’un ammonium inorganique ou d’une amine organique ; de préférence, M représente un contre-ion choisi parmi un ion sodium, potassium, calcium, magnésium, ammonium ou un contre-ion dérivé d’une amine organique.
• n représente au moins 200, de préférence au moins 1000, en particulier au moins 3000, ou moins de 20 000, en particulier moins de 10 000, ou de 500 à 10 000, notamment de 1000 à 7000.

in which

• R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or

• M belongs to an ionic group or an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; preferably, M represents a counterion selected from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine.
• n represents at least 200, preferably at least 1000, in particular at least 3000, or less than 20,000, in particular less than 10,000, or from 500 to 10,000, in particular from 1000 to 7000.

Preferably, the first polysaccharide is selected from the following polysaccharides: diutan gum, welan gum, and mixtures thereof; preferably, diutan gum.

Preferably, the first polysaccharide is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.08 wt% to about 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric Surfactants

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric surfactants" is intended to encompass surfactants conventionally referred to as both "amphoteric surfactant" and "zwitterionic surfactant."

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, sulfobetaines (also called sultaines) such as (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines, amino acids such as glycine, (C8-C20) alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, (C8-C20) alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20) alkylamphodiacetates, phospholipids such as lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from phospholipids such as lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins, salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

As (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, we can notably mention cocobetaine such as the product marketed under the name DEHYTON by Cognis, laurylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name GENAGEN by Clariant, oxyethylene laurylbetaine (10 EO), such as the product marketed under the name LAURYLETHER (10 EO) by Shin Nihon Rica, oxyethylene stearylbetaine (10 EO) such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER (10 EO) by Shin Nihon Rica.

Among the (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, we can for example mention cocamidopropyl betaine such as the products marketed under the name LEBON 2000 by Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN by Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or those marketed in the form of a mixture with glyceryl laurate such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine such as the product marketed under the name REWOTERIC by Witco.

As sultaines, mention may be made of (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines; (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl hydroxyl sulfobetaines such as cocoyl-amidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine such as that marketed under the name CROSULTAIN by Croda.

As (C8-C20) alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate, such as that marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 and AMPHOLAK 7 by AkzoNobel, sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate such as that marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C by AkzoNobel, sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine, such as that marketed under the name AMPHOLAK by AkzoNobel.

Examples of C8-C20 alkyldiamphoacetates that may be mentioned include N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylediamine of N-disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE by Rhodia Chimie, and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylediamine of N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) such as the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Rewoteric AM C.

Examples of C8-C20 alkylamphodiacetates include disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name C2M Concentrate.

Among the phospholipids, we can mention lecithins such as the product marketed by the NIKKOL group (Lecinol series) or other lecithins marketed by CARGIL/LUCAS MEYER (the EMULMETIKS family of EMULFLUIDS).

In particular, lecithin and a lecithin derivative can be used preferably. Among others, hydrogenated lecithin can be used advantageously.

The amphoteric surfactant is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt% to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 0.08 wt% to about 5 wt%, or from about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Co-surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one co-surfactant chosen from linear fatty alcohols having 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

Among others, the co-surfactant in the composition according to the present invention has a regular long carbon chain structure, for example, linear C14-C30 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, the co-surfactant is a linear, saturated, C14-C30 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, the linear, saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from linear, saturated C14-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably linear, saturated C16-C28 fatty alcohols, more preferably from linear, saturated C18-C26 fatty alcohols, or even from linear, saturated C20-C22 fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the co-surfactant is chosen from linear, saturated, C14-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably linear, saturated, C16-C28 fatty alcohols, more preferably from linear, saturated, C18-C26 fatty alcohols, or even from linear, saturated, C20-C22 fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.

The linear, saturated, C14-C28 fatty alcohol or alcohols that are used in the context of the present invention include C14 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example myristyl alcohol (C14), C16 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (C16), C18 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (C18), C20 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example arachidyl alcohol (C20), or C22 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example behenyl alcohol (C22), or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the co-surfactant according to the invention is chosen from C20 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example arachidyl alcohol (C20), or C22 fatty alcohol or alcohols, for example behenyl alcohol (C22), or mixtures thereof.

The co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 8 wt%, or from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, preferably from about 2 wt% to about 5 wt%, or from about 1 wt% to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to co-surfactant is from about 1:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:8, even from about 1:1 to about 1:7, particularly from about 1:1.5 to about 1:6, advantageously from about 1:2 to about 1:6.

Second polysaccharide

The present composition may further comprise a second polysaccharide different from the first polysaccharide.

Preferably, the second polysaccharide is a natural polysaccharide.

In general, natural polysaccharide refers to a naturally obtainable polysaccharide. For the purposes of the present invention, however, the term “natural polysaccharide” is intended to also encompass “naturally occurring polysaccharide,” which refers to a polysaccharide obtained by modification of a naturally obtainable polysaccharide.

In general, the second polysaccharide suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose, and mixtures thereof.

Similarly, the second polysaccharide can be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

Preferably, the second polysaccharide is selected from those produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the second polysaccharide is selected from homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

As an example of the second polysaccharide, mention may be made of fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives of these, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular sclerotium gum, for example scleroglucan, or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof. These second polysaccharides may be chemically modified, in particular by urea or urethane groups or by a hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric.

These second polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, algae or higher plants, and are detailed below.

Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

Dextran and dextran sulfate

Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide with no charged groups and is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing only hydroxyl groups. Dextran fractions of different molecular weights can be obtained from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. In particular, dextran can be in the form of dextran sulfate.

Dextran is represented, for example, by products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is sold by PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

Succinoglycan

Succinoglycan is a high-molecular-weight extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, consisting of repeating octasaccharide units (8 sugars). Succinoglycans are, for example, sold under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.

Polysaccharides isolated from algae

Furcellarana

Furcellaran is commercially obtained from the red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.

Polysaccharides of plant origin

1. Polysaccharides homogènes et dérivés de ceux-ci

This category of polysaccharides can be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of saccharide) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides.

1. Homogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharide according to the present invention may be chosen from celluloses and its derivatives or fructans.

Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the present invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, in particular cellulose ethers or esters (for example, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The present invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer.

According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based associative polymer" refers to any polysaccharide compound carrying in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues linked together by β (1, 4) bonds. The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. AGUs are in chair conformation and carry 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in positions 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine by intermolecular bonds of the hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber).

The degree of polymerization varies considerably depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.

Cellulose hydroxyl groups can react partially or completely with various chemical reagents to form cellulose derivatives with intrinsic properties. Cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic. These derivatives include cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester ethers.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. For example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, we can mention quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not.

The quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

• les celluloses quaternisées modifiées par des groupes comprenant au moins une chaîne grasse, tels que les groupes alkyle, arylalkyle ou alkylaryle comprenant au moins 8 atomes de carbone, ou les mélanges de ceux-ci,
• les hydroxyéthylcelluloses quaternisées modifiées par des groupes comprenant au moins une chaîne grasse, tels que les groupes alkyle, arylalkyle ou alkylaryle comprenant au moins 8 atomes de carbone ou des mélanges de ceux-ci.

Quaternized cellulose derivatives are in particular:

• quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
• quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radicals supported by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-30 fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by Croda.

• les celluloses modifiées par des groupes comprenant au moins une chaîne grasse, par exemple les hydroxyéthylcelluloses modifiées par des groupes comprenant au moins une chaîne grasse, tels que les groupes alkyle, notamment les groupes arylalkyle et alkylaryle en C8-22, tels que Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyles en C16) vendus par la société Aqualon, et
• les celluloses modifiées par des groupes alkylphényléther de polyalkylène glycol, tels que le produit Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (éther de nonylphényl polyéthylène glycol (15)) vendu par la société Amerchol.

Among the cellulose derivatives, we can also mention:

• celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-22 arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and
• celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol ether (15)) sold by the company Amerchol.

Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

The cellulose-based associative polymer of the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses. The celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by Dow, and under the names (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), (hydroxypropylcellulose), (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

Fructosans

The polysaccharide according to the present invention may in particular be a fructan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).

Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several residues of saccharides other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or, alternatively, products whose chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000 and preferably of 2 to about 60.

There are three groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are largely linked by β (2, 1) bonds. These are mainly linear fructans such as inulins.

The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are mainly linked by β-bonds (2, 6). These products are levans.

The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing β(2,6) and β(2,1) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, like graminans.

Preferred fructans in the compositions according to the present invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.

In particular, the polysaccharide, especially inulin, has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on a fructose unit.

The inulin used for the present invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name inulin BeneoTM by the company Orafti, and under the name by the company Sensus.

(b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

The polysaccharides that can be used according to the present invention may be gums, for example cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.

Gum arabic

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts. The monomeric components of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, carob, fennel, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

Galactomannans are non-ionic polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of legume seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.

Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of β-linked (1, 4) D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit linked by α-linkage (1, 6) to the main chain. The various galactomannans are differentiated, on the one hand, by the proportion of α-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and, on the other hand, by significant differences in terms of the distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.

The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is approximately 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum, and 4 for locust bean gum.

Guar

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose/galactose ratio of around 2/1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The guar gums that can be used according to the present invention can be non-ionic, cationic or anionic. According to the present invention, chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums can be used.

Examples of unmodified non-ionic guar gums are products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by Rhodia, under the name Guar by Danisco, under the name ViscogumTM by Cargill, and under the name guar gum by Aqualon.

Hydrolyzed nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the present invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name by the company Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the present invention are preferably modified with C1-6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which there may be mentioned, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

Cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq./g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density can be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

Generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" refers to any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

Preferred cationic groups are selected from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight between about 500 and 5 × 10 ⁶ and preferably between about 10 ³ and 3 × 10 ⁶ .

Cationic galactomannan gums which may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic (C1-4) trialkylammonium groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups may be particularly mentioned.

Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the present invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products already known as such and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307.

The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group can also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The anionic guar gums which can be used according to the present invention are preferably carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Carob

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua).

Unmodified carob gum that can be used in the present invention is sold, for example, under the name ViscogumTM by Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by Unipektin, and under the name LBG by Danisco.

Chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the Toho company.

Tara gum

Tara gum which can be used in the context of the present invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

Furthermore, agars are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these red algae species (Rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group whose basic skeleton is a β (1, 3) D-galactopyranose chain and an α (1, 4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these motifs repeating regularly and alternately. Differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are usually present in varying percentages, depending on the algae species and the harvest season.

Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) with a high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 g. mol-1. It is obtained by manufacturing algae extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors, which contain about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

Agar is produced, for example, by the B&V Agar Producers group under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the Hispanagar company, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar) and Puragar by the Setexam company.

Preferably, the second polysaccharide is selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof; more preferably, selected from gellan gum.

Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced industrially by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure, like cellulose, is composed of a β-D-glucose backbone linked in β(1,4) mode. One of the two glucose molecules has a trisaccharide side chain composed of α-D-mannose, β-D-glucuronic acid, and terminal β-D-mannose. Internal mannose residues are usually acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues have pyruvate groups linked in chelated form between carbon 4 and carbon 6. The charged glucuronic acid and pyruvic acid can be ionized and thus result in the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate residues and acetate residues varies depending on the species, fermentation process, post-fermentation conditions and purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na ⁺ , K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ ions (Satia, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or dialysis using an acid solution. Xanthan gum has a viscosity of 0.6 to 1.65 Pa.s (Brookfield viscometer, type LVT, measured at 60 rpm at 25 °C) for an aqueous composition comprising a molecular weight of 1,000,000 to 50,000,000 and 1% xanthan gum. Xanthan gum, for example, products sold under the trade name Rhodicare by Rhodia Chimie, products sold by Cargill Texturizing Solutions, Inc. under the trade name Satiaxane ^TM (food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), ADM, Inc. under the trade name Novaxan ^TM and products sold by CP-Kelco under the trade names Kelzan® and Keltrol®.

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 saccharides (tetrasaccharides). D-glucose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid in a 2:1:1 ratio are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by CP Kelco.

Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. Approximately 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain at positions 1,2. Uronic acid molecules carry carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions, when they are in the COO ^- form. Divalent ions (especially calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules. In their natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The natural degree of esterification of a pectin can be between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used. By using pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH _{3 groups,} so as to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methylated or non-methylated monomers, the chain is therefore more or less acidic. HM (high methoxy) pectins are therefore defined as having a degree of esterification greater than 50%, and LM (low methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification less than 50%. In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH ₃ group is substituted by an -NH ₂ group. Pectins are notably sold by the Cargill company under the name Unipectine™, by the CP-Kelco company under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20 to 50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate ester groups on the repeating disaccharide molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which carry one sulfate ester group, iota-carrageenans, which carry two sulfate ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which carry three sulfate ester groups. Carrageenans are composed primarily of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine, and/or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate esters. Carrageenans are sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum ^® , by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel ^® , Carralact ^® and Carrasol ^® , by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta ^® , Genugel ^® and Genuvisco ^® .

Chitosan is a linear polysaccharide composed of randomly distributed β-(1→4)-linked D-glucosamine (deacetylated unit) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated unit). It is prepared by treating the chitin shells of shrimp and other crustaceans with an alkaline substance, such as sodium hydroxide.

Preferably, the second polysaccharide is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.08 wt% to about 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the first polysaccharide to the second polysaccharide is from about 0.05 to 4, preferably from about 0.1 to 4, advantageously from about 0.1 to 2, in particular from about 1:1.

Salts

Furthermore, the present composition used in the present invention may further comprise a salt, for example a salt obtained by an acid and/or a base.

For example, the acid may be selected from citric acid, maleic acid, acetic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid and the like, and mixtures thereof; bases such as sodium and calcium hydroxide, sodium and calcium phosphate, such as monosodium phosphate or disodium phosphate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide triethylamine and the like, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, when the present composition used in the present invention comprises a first polysaccharide and the salt component, the present composition has a further improved transformation feeling.

Preferably, the salt is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt% to about 15 wt%, preferably from about 2 wt% to about 12 wt%, or from about 4 wt% to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise fatty substances of any kind and appropriate contents which are known to those skilled in the art.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 ⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight).

Preferably, the fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty substances include liquid fatty substances (oils) and non-liquid fatty substances such as solid or gaseous fatty substances.

Here, oils mean fatty substances (i) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure and are not in a solid or gaseous state.

The oils may be selected from mineral oils, vegetable or synthetic oils, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. For example, the vegetable-derived oils may be selected from jojoba oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, safflower oil, or grapeseed oil); the mineral oils may be selected from liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated isoparaffins, or isohexadecane; synthetic oils may be chosen from parleeam, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl octanoate, polyisobutylene, ethylhexyl palmitate or alkyl benzoate, silicone oils including volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), cyclodimethylsiloxanes or cyclomethicones, as well as mixtures of these oils.

The non-liquid fatty substances may be selected from sorbitan fatty esters, fatty acid esters such as stearate esters, behenate esters, arachidate esters, palmitate esters, fatty acid esters of a sugar and mixtures thereof. In other cases, the non-liquid fatty substances may be chosen from purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters and pentaerythritol esters, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one fatty substance selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate and mixtures thereof.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase of any kind and appropriate contents which are known to those skilled in the art.

The expression “aqueous phase” here designates everything that constitutes the dispersed phase, namely: water, water-miscible organic solvents and water-soluble or water-dispersible additives.

Water-miscible organic solvents which may be mentioned include, for example, linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols containing from 4 to 80 ethylene oxides; and polyols, for example, glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol and butylene glycol.

Water-soluble additives that may be mentioned, for example, include mono-, di- or trivalent mineral salts; water-soluble UV-protecting agents; and sugars such as glucose, sucrose, trehalose, sorbitol, lactose, fructose, xylose or maltose.

More preferably, the present composition, preferably for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, comprises: relative to the total weight of the composition,

(a) at least 0.08% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one first polysaccharide selected from diutan gum, welan gum and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from lecithins;

(c) at least 1% by weight to 3% by weight of a co-surfactant, selected from a linear fatty alcohol having 16 to 26 carbon atoms.

Cosmetic uses

Another subject of the present invention is to provide a method of treating keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the present invention, so as to provide a sensation of transformation as disclosed in the present invention.

Uses of the preparations

Another subject of the present invention is to provide a method of preparing a cosmetic product for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising a composition according to the present invention, which provides a sensation of transformation as disclosed in the present invention.

Cosmetic product

Another subject of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic product including a composition having good stability and improved processing feel as disclosed in the present invention and optionally other functional agents in addition, for example, non-limited active agents, solubilizers, cosmetically acceptable carriers and the like.

More exhaustive but non-limiting lists of components useful in the present compositions disclosed herein are presented below.

According to the present invention, the composition optionally further comprises at least one active agent, which is almost any active agent acceptable in a cosmetic product, and/or any suitable emollient.

The compositions optionally include one or more solubilizers. Various solubilizers are well known in the art and may be useful for the compositions described herein. In some cases, the one or more solubilizers may be, for example, one or more cosmetically acceptable hydrotropic agents.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative, conventionally used for cosmetic products.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

The quantities/concentrations of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.

I. Preparation

1. The raw materials used in the examples of the invention and the comparative examples.

INCI name Trade name Supplier C20-22 ALCOHOL NAFOL 2022 FR SASOL HYDROGENATED LECITHIN NIKKOL LECINOL S10 NIKKO DIUTAN GUM KELCO-CARE ^TM DIUTAN GUM LUBRIZOL GELLAN GUM KELCOGEL ^® CG LA CP KELCO DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE DUB ^TM DIS STEARINERIE DUBOIS

1. Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5:

Invention compositions Nos. 1 to 3 and comparative compositions Nos. 1 to 5 were prepared as shown in Table 2.

• (1) Du sébacate de diisopropyle, de l’eau, de la lécithine hydrogénée (le cas échéant) et de l’alcool en C20-22 (le cas échéant) ont été ajoutés à une cuve principale et bien mélangés à 80 °C et homogénéisés pour obtenir un mélange A ;
• (2) De l’acide lactique, du NaOH, de la gomme de diutane (le cas échéant), de la gomme gellane (le cas échéant) et de la gomme de xanthane (le cas échéant) ont été ajoutés dans le mélange A obtenu à l’étape (1), et mélangés jusqu’à obtenir un mélange B homogène ;
• (3) le mélange B obtenu à l’étape 2) a été refroidi à 25 °C.

Preparation process:

• (1) Diisopropyl sebacate, water, hydrogenated lecithin (if used) and C20-22 alcohol (if used) were added to a main tank and mixed well at 80°C and homogenized to obtain mixture A;
• (2) Lactic acid, NaOH, diutan gum (if any), gellan gum (if any) and xanthan gum (if any) were added into the mixture A obtained in step (1), and mixed until a homogeneous mixture B was obtained;
• (3) mixture B obtained in step 2) was cooled to 25°C.

Exp1 Exp2 Exp3 Cep1 Cep2 Cep3 Cep4 Cep5 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.4 0.4 0.4 - C20-22 alcohol 1.9 1.9 1.9 - 1.9 1.9 - 1.9 Diutan gum 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 Gellan gum 0.1 - - - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 Xanthan gum - 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 - - Diisopropyl sebacate 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 Lactic acid 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 NaOH 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 WATER (QS) Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

II. Evaluation of the compositions of the invention and comparatives

1. Rheological characterizations

Rheology was measured using a rheology measuring instrument with Anton Paar MCR301 rheological testing machine, spindle code model: cc027.

Test model: amplitude sweep

shear stress: 0.01~200%

Shear rate: 10 s ^-1

K = (G0’-G1’)/γ

ΔG = G0’-G0’’

G0’: the initial storage module

G0’’: the initial lost module

G1’: the storage module when the curves G’ and G" begin to intersect.

γ: shear stress.

Stability was determined using the centrifugal technique. Weigh 10 g of each composition, then place each composition in a centrifuge at a centrifugation of 900 rcf for 1 hour. Then remove each composition from the centrifuge and observe each composition. If there is no phase separation, absence of oil and appearance of fatty alcohol crystal, the composition is evaluated as "stable", otherwise it is evaluated as "unstable".

Here, the term "phase separation" means that the emulsification system is not stable, that the aqueous phase and the oil phase are not completely separated, that the emulsification system is partially separated from the aqueous phase/oil phase.

The term "oil-free" means that the emulsifying system cannot be formed, the aqueous phase and the oil phase are completely separated.

The compositions of the present invention and comparative compositions were evaluated and the test results were shown in Table 3 as follows.

Exp1 Exp2 Exp3 Cep1 Cep2 Cep3 Cep4 Cep5 Centrifugation
(900 rcf, 1 h) Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable:
phase separation Unstable:
Phase separation Unstable:
No oil Unstable:
Absence of oil,
A crystal of fatty alcohol appears K 12.04 8.73 79.15 0.97 23.5 9.4 N / A N / A ΔG 121.96 69.08 203.15 2.6 7.54 42.02 N / A N / A

Test results

It can be seen that Examples 1-3 are all stable, no phase separation, no absence of oil and/or no fatty alcohol appeared.

The K value and ΔG value can be used to assess the transformation sensation. The higher the K (K = (G0’-G1’)/γ) and ΔG (ΔG = G0’-G0’’) values, the more obvious the improvement in the transformation sensation.

Compositions are considered acceptable if they have a K value greater than 2 and a ΔG value greater than 10.

All compositions of the invention are considered acceptable and have good processing feel and stability.

As for Cep1, Cep1 compositions including only the first polysaccharide component (a) without the amphoteric surfactant component (b) and the co-surfactant component (c), exhibit poorer rheological characterizations compared to the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., Examples 1-3).

As for Cep2, the Cep2 composition including only the amphoteric surfactant component (b) and the co-surfactant component (c) without the first polysaccharide component (a) exhibits poorer rheological characterizations and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., Examples 1-3).

As for Cep3, the Cep3 composition including the polysaccharide other than component (a) the first polysaccharide, and including component (b) amphoteric surfactant and component (c) co-surfactant has less stability, and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., Examples 1-3).

As for Cep4, the Cep4 composition including component (a) first polysaccharide and component (b) amphoteric surfactant without component (c) co-surfactant has less stability, and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., Examples 1-3).

As for Cep5, the Cep5 composition including component (a) first polysaccharide and component (c) co-surfactant without component (b) amphoteric surfactant has worse stability, and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (e.g., Examples 1-3).

III. Conclusion

The present composition disclosed in the present invention is superior in terms of beneficial properties, for example: stable, transforming feeling, compared to the comparative. In addition, the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are more durable.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, comprising:
(a) at least one first polysaccharide;
(b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;
(c) at least one co-surfactant, chosen from a linear fatty alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms;
in which the first polysaccharide has the following formula (I):

(I)
in which
– R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or
;
– M belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably M represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine;
– n represents at least 200. A composition according to claim 1, wherein M represents a counterion selected from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine; or
– n represents at least 1000, in particular at least 3000, or less than 20,000, in particular less than 10,000, or from 500 to 10,000, in particular from 1000 to 7000. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first polysaccharide is selected from diutan gum, welan gum and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of betaines, such as (C8-C20) alkylbetaines; (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine; sulfobetaines such as (C8-C20) alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines; amino acids, such as glycine, (C8-C20) alkyl polyaminocarboxylates; (C8-C20) alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20) alkylamphodiacetates; phospholipids such as lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins; salts thereof; derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from hydrogenated lecithins. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the co-surfactant is chosen from the group of linear C14-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably linear C16-C26 fatty alcohols, or in particular linear C20-C22 fatty alcohols. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to co-surfactant is from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1 to 1:8, even from 1:1 to 1:7, in particular from 1:1.5 to 1:6, advantageously from 1:2 to 1:6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises a second polysaccharide different from the first polysaccharide, selected from natural polysaccharides, for example, pectin, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, dextrin, carrageenan, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, cellulose ether derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, starch, chitosan such as hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, microcrystalline cellulose, natto gum, pullulan, alginates such as sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium cellulose sulfate, tragacanth gum, locust bean gums, biosaccharide gum, mucilages such as cactus mucilage, bacterial cell wall peptidoglycan, and mixtures thereof, preferably the second polysaccharide is selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from gellan gum. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises a salt, for example a salt obtained by acid and/or base. Process for treating keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8 for preparing a product for the treatment of keratinous materials such as the skin.