WO2024128168A1

WO2024128168A1 - Composition comprising electrolyte and combination of polysaccharides

Info

Publication number: WO2024128168A1
Application number: PCT/JP2023/044122
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yukinori Yamada; Makoto Saito
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2022-12-15
Filing date: 2023-12-05
Publication date: 2024-06-20
Anticipated expiration: 2025-06-15

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a gel composition, comprising: (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of the (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION

COMPOSITION COMPRISING ELECTROLYTE AND COMBINATION OF POLYSACCHARIDES

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an electrolyte and a combination of polysaccharides,

BACKGROUND ART

Gelification of compositions containing electrolytes, in particular a large amount of electrolytes, making it difficult to obtain a sufficient thickening effect, Thus, there are technical problems in gelling a composition containing electrolytes.

Some technologies for gelling a composition containing electrolytes have been reported so far. For example, WO2014/132783 discloses a gel composition for skin, characterized by comprising (A) an electrolyte, (B) a nonionic polysaccharide compound, and (C) a cross polymer that is formed using (Cl) an acrylamide methyl propane sulfonate, (C2) a dimethylacrylamide, (C3) an alkyl (meth)acrylate, and (C4) a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether (meth)acrylate .

Due to growing awareness of environmental issues in recent years, consumers tend to desire products using more earth-friendly raw materials.

Thus, there is a demand to provide a gel-like composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and which has an improved applicability with a preferred range of hardness, even though it includes a large amount of electrolytes.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a gel-like composition formed with natural resources, which can maintain transparency over time and which has an improved applicability, even though it includes a large amount of electrolytes.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide wherein the amount of the (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) electrolyte may be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, in particular skin.

The (a) electrolyte may be selected from organic acids and salts thereof,

The (a) electrolyte may be selected from hydroxy acids, such as a- and - hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid, and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

The (a) electrolyte may be selected from ascorbic acid and salts thereof.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one quaternary ammonium group.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic - acid, and preferably carboxylic acid.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid,

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may be in the form of gel.

The composition may comprise synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating, caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as skin, comprising the step of applying onto the scalp the composition according to the present invention.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a combination of (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide can provide a gel-like composition with improved transparency over time and a preferred hardness, even though the composition comprises a large amount of electrolytes, and thus completed the invention.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of the (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner,

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratin substances. The keratinous substance here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, such as skin of the face, neck and body, scalp, lips, and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is used for skin.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for treating, conditioning, and/or caring for keratinous substances, in particular skin.

The composition according to the present invention has a preferred range of a viscosity and a hardness so that it can provide users with an improved applicability. Thus the composition according to present. invention can be in the form of a gel composition, such as a liquid gel, a fluid gel, and a viscous gel. The composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel composition.

The preferred range of the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention may be from 4,000 to 9,000 mPa¹ s at room temperature (25°C). Because the composition is not too viscous and not too fluid, it can provide users with an improved spread property and preferred sensation during application.

In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention may be from 4,500 to 8,500 mPa* s, and more preferably 5,000 to 8,000 mPa* s at room temperature (25°C). In the context of the present specification, the viscosity can be measured, for example, with using a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with Spindle #64), at 12 rpm. The viscosity at 1 minute after the measurement was initiated can be recorded.

The preferred range of the hardness of the composition according to the present invention may be from 5 to 15g at room temperature (25°C). Because the composition is not too hard and not too soft, it can provide users with an improved spread property and preferred sensation during application.

In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the hardness of the composition according to the present invention may be from 7 to 15g, and more preferably 9 to 15g at room temperature (25°C). In the context of the present specification, the hardness can be measured, for example, with using a texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a rate of 2 mm/s.

The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition. The term “leave-on” means a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed out or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratin materials. The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide.

The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner below.

(Electrolyte)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one electrolyte.

Two or more (a) electrolytes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of electrolyte or a combination of different types of electrolytes may be used.

The (a) electrolyte may be a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, in particular skin, such as anti-aging agents, whitening agents, anti-wrinkle agents, moisturizing agents, antiphlogistic agents, astringent agents, ultraviolet absorbers, and/or antiperspirant agents. In the present invention, the (a) electrolytes are not particularly limited as long as they can be used as raw materials for cosmetics, and may be appropriately blended depending on the intended purpose.

The (a) electrolyte may include, for example, organic acids and salts thereof) and inorganic acids and salts thereof Preferably, the (a) electrolyte may be selected from organic acids and salts thereof

The term "organic acid" here means nonpolymeric organic compounds showing acidic property when it dissolves in water. The solubility in water of the organic acid is not particularly limited, but in general, at least lg/100 mL water, preferably at least 5g/l 00 mL water, and in particular at least 10g/100 mL water at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The organic acid may have a mean molecular weight by weight less than 500, preferably less than 400, in particular less than 300, and more particularly less than 250. In the context of the present specification, the mean molecular weight indicates a number average molecular weight.

The organic acid may be selected from, for example, hydroxy acids, such as a- and 0- hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid, and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Regarding a- and [3- hydroxy acids, the a and p positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an a or p position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e., is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl function. The term “a- hydroxy acid”, or “AHA”, here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom. The term “P-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

The a-hydroxy acid may be represented by the following chemical formula: (R_a)(R_b)C(OH)COOH where

R_a and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and in addition R_a and Rb may carry OH, CHO, COOH and alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxyacids may be present as a free acid or lactone form, or in a partial salt form with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. The alpha hydroxyacids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for R_a and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.

The a-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example, the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

As P-hydroxy acids, mention may be made, without limitation, of salicylic acid and its derivatives.

The carboxylic acid may be selected from Ci-Ce monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid; Ci-Ce dicarboxylic acids; such as maleic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, and malonic acid; aromatic carboxylic acids, such as phthalic acid and salicylic acid; pyruvic acid, and glucuronic acid.

The amino acids may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. The acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. The acidic amino acids may include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. The basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The basic amino acids may include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino group(s) and the number of carboxyl group(s) in the neutral amino acids are the same. The neutral amino acids may include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan.

The amino acid may be selected from a-amino acids, 0-amino acids, y-amino acids and 8- amino acids. The a-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic a-amino acids and cyclic a- amino acids. The non-cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. The cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from nonaromatic cyclic a-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

In some embodiments, the amino acid may be selected from the derivatives of amino acids. The derivatives of amino acids (amino acid derivatives) may be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted with at least one substituent. As the substituent, mention may be made of, for example, an alkyl group, acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxy carbonyl group.

The cation moiety of the electrolyte may be metallic cations or organic cations. As metallic cations, mention can be made of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, such as Na⁺, K⁺, Ca²⁺, and Mg²⁺, as well as Zn²⁺and Al³⁺. As organic cations, mention can be made of ammonium ion, sulfonium ion, phosphonium ion, tertiary amine such as trimethylamine salts, triethylamine salts, monoethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts and pyridine salts.

As the (a) electrolyte, mention can be made of the following organic acids and inorganic salts thereof, such as calcium salts, potassium salts, sodium salts, and magnesium salts: lactic acid and lactates, such as sodium lactate, magnesium lactate and calcium lactate; phosphoric acid and phosphate, such as potassium phosphate, sodium phosphate, sodium pyrophosphate; glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizinate, such as dipotassium glycyrrhizinate; ascorbic acid and salts thereof, such as magnesium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate, disodium L-ascorbyl sulfate; pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylates, such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate; amino acids such as proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine and their derivatives; UV absorbers such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and sodium salts thereof, and the like.

In particular, the (a) electrolyte is selected from ascorbic acid and salts thereof. The amount of the (a) electrolyte(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 7% by weight or more, preferably 8.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition,

The (a) electrolyte(s) may be present in a content ranging from 7% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 9% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

(Cationic Polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide. Two or more types of cationic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of cationic polysaccharides may be used.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide can be water-soluble and can bear a cationic charge in water. For the purpose of the present invention, the term “waer-soluble” here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa).

The (b) cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polysaccharide may be from 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq/g, and more preferably from 0,1 to 10 meq/g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a) cationic polysaccharide be 500 or more, preferably 1 ,000 or more, more preferably 2,000 or more, and even more preferably 5,000 or more.

Unless otherwise defined in the description, “molecular weight” may mean a number average molecular weight.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively chargeable and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, a secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group, The term (primary) “amino group” here means

1 the group-NH2.

It is preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide have at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkyl ammonium group, and more preferably a quaternary trimethyl ammonium group.

The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group- containing group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

wherein each of Ri and R2 denotes a C1-3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

R3 denotes a C1-24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably methyl group,

X' denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride, n denotes an integer from 0-30, preferably 0-10, and more preferably 0, and R4 denotes a C1.4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the above chemical formula (I) can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

It is preferable that the quaternary ammonium group-containing group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)- CH₂-N⁺(CH₃)3.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The (b) cationic polysaccharide may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

It may be preferable that the (a) cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic cellulose polymers.

According to the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" denotes any nonsiliconized (comprising no silicon atoms) cellulose polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and/or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

The term "cellulose" polymer denotes according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in the structure thereof at least 20 glucose residue chains joined by P-1,4 bonds. The cellulose polymer can be associative, i.e., having the structure thereof at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.

The cationic cellulose polymers suitable for use preferably have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between about 5000 and 5.10⁶, preferably between about 10³ and 3.10⁶.

Non-limiting examples of the cationic cellulose polymers are as follows.

(1) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French Patent No, 1 492 597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR

30M) by the company Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

(2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium, and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with at least one chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company Akzo Novel.

(3) Cationic cellulose polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain.

The fatty chain of the quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof

Preferably, mention can be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear f tty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention can be made of hydroxy ethylcelluloses of formula (lb):

wherein:

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN⁺-, Q- wherein Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide;

- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN⁺~, Q’- wherein R’a, R’b, R’c, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear, C8-C30, alkyl;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

Preferably, in formula (lb), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Re, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention can particularly be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the or the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, particularly methyl.

Preferably, in formula (lb), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention can particularly be made of the dodecyl radical (Cl 2). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, particularly methyl.

More preferably, R can be a group chosen from -N⁺(CH3)3, Q” and -N⁺(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N⁺(CH3)3, Q”.

More preferably, R’ can be a group -N⁺(Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’-.

The nitrogen percentage can be vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total polymer weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

Mention can particularly be made of polymers having the INCI names:

- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryl dimonium Chloride (Cl 2 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl 8 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by CRODA.

Mention can also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) wherein R represents trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+- This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention can be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-

1300X from AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL.

More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67). It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic starches.

As examples of the cationic starches, mention may be made of starches modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g. chloride), such as the product known as starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INCI nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 from Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 from Ingredion.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

The term "cationic galactomannan gum" denotes any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, wherein the mannose units are bound by a 1-4-glycoside bond and galactose branching takes place by means of a 1 -6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for the chemical reaction.

Galactomannans are generally found in the endosperm of the grains of legumes such as guar or carob.

The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular weight between about 500 and 5xl0⁶, and preferably between about 10³ and 3x10⁶, The galactomannan groups suitable for use according to the present invention are for example gums including trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% in number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention can very particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, i.e., a guar gum modified for example with 2,3- epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

The gums may be, for example, selected from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, and acacia gum.

These galactomannan gums in particular from guar modified by cationic groups are products already known per se and are for example described in the patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307.

Examples of cationic gum include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives. Such products are moreover sold particularly under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar CB S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Aquaion. Hydroxypropyl Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ trade name series from Rhodia Inc. Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is commercially available under the Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 trademarks from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc or the ClearHance™ from Ashland Inc.

It may also be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be selected from chitosans.

In one preferred embodiment, the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums, more preferably cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives.

It may be preferable that the (b) cationic polysaccharide be selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, starch hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Anionic Polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of anionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of anionic polysaccharides may be used.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide can be water-soluble and can bear a negative charge in water.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (c) anionic polysaccharide be 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, and more preferably 10,000 or more.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may have at least one negatively chargeable and/or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, e.g. carboxyalkyl, sulfate, sulfonate, e.g. sulfoalkyl, phosphate and phosphonate groups. The alkyl groups in these moieties may be C alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl.

It is preferable that the (c) anionic polysaccharides have at least one carboxylate group, e.g. a carboxyalkyl group. The counter-ion of the anionic group is usually an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, suitably sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium. The anionic groups can also exist in their acid form, whereby the corresponding anionic groups are formed in an aqueous environment.

The (c) anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The (c) anionic polysaccharide may be selected from natural anionic polysaccharides and synthetic anionic polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable natural anionic polysaccharides of the invention include polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid; polysaccharides comprising at least one galacturonic acid as a constituent, such as pectins; sulfated polysaccharides, such as carrageenan, ulvan, fucoidan, chondroitin sulfates, dermatan sulfates; agar-agar, and combinations thereof.

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is composed of a main chain of 0-D- glucoses connected in 0(1,4) manner, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule out of two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a-D-mannose, of a 0-D-glucuronic acid and of a terminal 0-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6, Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6, The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to pH 1). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post- fermentation conditions and the purification stages.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type, at 60 revolutions per minute). Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 saccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2/1/1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is present in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked by 1,4-glycosidic bonds: 0-D- mannuronic (M) acid and a-L-glucuronic (G) acid. Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amines and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D- glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' also comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating (3(1,4) and (3(1,3) glycosidic linkages, having a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends in large part on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or on the preparation methods.

The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof also comprises, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. As the salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the term used is intermediate-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the term used is low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L- rhamnose, D-glucose, D- galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). The L-rhamnose residues are present in all pectins, integrated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2. The uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives the pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO" form. Bivalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of the said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked via a(l,3) and B(l,4) bonds. These are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. According to the number and position of the ester sulfate groups on the repeat disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenan are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one ester sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which bear two ester sulfate groups, and lambda-carrageenans which bear three ester sulfate groups. Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and of ester sulfates of polysaccharides.

Agar-agar is formed from a polymer group in which the base backbone is a |3( 1 ,3) D- galactopyranose and a(l,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methyl or carboxyethyl solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentages, depending on the species of algae and the season of harvest.

Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 g.mol. It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction juices, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these juices comprising about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

In one preferred embodiment, the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid, in particular xanthan gum.

Examples of suitable synthetic anionic polysaccharides include anionic cellulose derivatives. Anionic cellulose derivatives may include those modified with carboxyalkyl groups, in particular C carboxyalkyl group, such as carboxymethyl group, carboxyethyl group, carboxypropyl group, and sulfoalkyl group, in particular C sulfoalkyl group, such as sulfomethyl group. As the anionic cellulose derivatives, mention can be made of carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxyethyl cellulose, carboxy-propyl cellulose, sulphoethyl carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose ("CM-HEC"), and carboxymethyl cellulose.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) anionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Nonionic Polysaccharide)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide. Two or more types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of nonionic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of nonionic polysaccharides may be used.

The (d) nonionic polysaccharide can be water-soluble.

The (d) nonionic polysaccharide may be chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328,1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the content of these three publications being entirely incorporated by reference.

Specifically, the (d) nonionic polysaccharide be chosen, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcellu loses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums or carob gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof, which are different from the (b) cationic polysaccharide and the (c) anionic polysaccharide as explained above,

Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elemental moieties that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, can vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, cassaya starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches are generally in the form of a white powder which is insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

The starches may optionally be Ci-Cg hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

The guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

The modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such aspropylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120, and Jaguar HP- 120 by the company Solvay.

Among the celluloses that are used are, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Ashland.

Alternatively, as the hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms may also preferably be used.

The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms means polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not polysaccharide derived from plants. Thus, it may be preferable that polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not based on cellulose. As examples of the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, mention may be made of cardollan, Jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d) nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other Ingredients)

- Water

The composition according to the present invention includes water. The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more; and/or may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Cosmetically Acceptable Hydrophilic Organic Solvent

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be the same or different.

The cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or monobutylether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6, and PEG-8, and their derivatives.

The amount of the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Additives

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents other than ingredients (b) to (d); penetrating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants, such as hydroxy acetophenone; moisturizers; emollients; active agents for keratinous substances; free- radical scavengers; sequestering agents, such as trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; suspending agents; buffer; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; fungicides, such as chlorphenesin; opacifying agents; agents which can cause a cooling sensation,; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not include a synthetic polymer, such as gelling agent. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a synthetic polymer but the amount thereof is very little. For example, the composition of the present invention comprises a synthetic polymer in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of synthetic polymers (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).

As the synthetic polymer, mention can be made of polyacrylate and the like.

In some preferable embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of oils or comprises a tiny amount of oils. In some embodiments, the oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of oils (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof, These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof. The oil may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group, such as dimethicone.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.

The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured through usual techniques in the art, for example, by mixing the ingredients (a) to (d), Said other ingredients can be mixed with these ingredients. While mixing these ingredients, they can be heated, if necessary.

[Cosmetic Process and Use]

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method or process, preferably a cosmetic method or process, and more preferably a cosmetic method or process for treating, caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as the skin, scalp, and lips, in particular skin, comprising: applying onto the keratinous substance a composition comprising:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, for gelling a composition comprising (a) electrolyte in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition is generally applied on a keratinous substance, such as skin, with the hands or an applicator.

The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process or use according to the present invention may not include a rinse out or wash out step of the applied composition after the application step.

The same explanations as given for the composition, (a) at least one electrolyte, (b) at least one cationic polysaccharide, (c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and (d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide in the composition invention can be applied to those for the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

In the examples, "Maltitol (and) Sorbiol" was obtained from KANKOHSHA, sold under the name of "Amalty Syrup", and Oryzanol was obtained from TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS, sold under the name of "Gamma Oryzanol".

[Composition]

The compositions according to Examples 1-3 (Ex. 1-3) and Comparative Examples 1-9 were prepared in accordance with the following protocol. The formulations are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. In Tables 1 and 2, all components are based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

[Preparation Protocol]

1) Mixing water, chlorphenesin, Hydroxyacetophenone, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate at 75-80 °C to form a uniform mixture.

2) Adding pentylene glycol, ceratonia silique gum, and xanthan gum, if present, to the mixture and mixing by a homogenizer at 75-80 °C so as to be homogeneous.

3) Adding ascorbic acid to the mixture and mixing it with a homogenizer at 50°C so as to be homogeneous.

4) Adding sodium hydroxide to the mixture and mixing it with a homogenizer at 50°C so as to be homogeneous.

5) Adding hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, if present, to the mixture and mixing it with a homogenizer at 50°C to be homogeneous.

6) Cooling the mixture to 30°C without mixing.

[Evaluation]

(Viscosity)

The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-9 was measured with a viscometer (Brookfield LVDV-III U with Spindle #64), at 12 rpm at room temperature (25°C). The viscosity at 1 minute after the measurement initiated was recorded.

The preferred viscosity value is within a range of 4,000 to 9,000 mPa* s. When the viscosity value is less than 4,000 mPa' s, the composition may drip during application. When the viscosity value is higher than 9,000 mPa' s, it may be too hard to spread the composition on the skin.

(Hardness)

The hardness of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1 -9 was measured with a texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo equipped with a round probe with a diameter of 5 mm at a rate of 2 mm/s at room temperature (25°C).

The preferred hardness value is within a range of 5 to 15 g. When the hardness value is less than 5g, the composition may drip during application. When the hardness value is higher than 15g, the composition may become like a jelly and it can be too hard to spread the composition on the skin evenly,

(Color Change)

200g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-9 was placed into a 250 mL plastic bottle, and it was then left at 45°C for 2 months. The color change of the appearance was visually observed, and then evaluated according to the following criteria.

OK: The color became slightly brown but it was acceptable.

NG: The color clearly became brown and it was not acceptable,

The results are summarized in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Table 2

As can be seen from the results shown in Tables 1 and 2, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which included the combinations of the ingredients (b) to (d) of the present invention, exhibited preferred properties of the viscosity and the hardness, and maintained transparent appearance over time, even though these compositions included 10% by weight of ascorbic acid as the (a) electrolyte.

In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 9, which lacked at least one of the ingredients (b) to (d), did not exhibit desirable viscosity and/or hardness, or showed poor appearance because of color change.

Claims

CLAIMS A composition, comprising:

(a) at least one electrolyte,

(b) at least one cationic polysaccharide,

(c) at least one anionic polysaccharide, and

(d) at least one nonionic polysaccharide, wherein the amount of the (a) electrolyte is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) electrolyte is a cosmetically active ingredient for keratinous substances, in particular skin. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, the (a) electrolyte is selected from organic acids and salts thereof. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (a) electrolyte is selected from hydroxy acids, such as a- and P- hydroxy acids, carboxylic acids, amino acids, taurine, phosphoric acids, pyrophosphoric acid, and cosmetically active organic acids, such as ascorbic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and UV absorbers, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (a) electrolyte is selected from ascorbic acid and salts thereof. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group. The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums, The composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the (b) cationic polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) anionic polysaccharides comprises at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid, and preferably carboxylic acid. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) anionic polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0,01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0,1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (d) nonionic polysaccharide is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in the form of gel. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises synthetic polymers in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic process for treating, caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as skin, comprising the step of applying onto the keratin substances, the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.