FR3142889A1 - Gelled aqueous phase composition comprising ascorbic acid and at least one C-glycoside. - Google Patents

Abstract

Gelled aqueous phase composition comprising ascorbic acid and at least one C-glycoside. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least 0.05% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one aqueous phase, and where appropriate a fatty phase; said aqueous phase being gelled by at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and at least 0.1% by weight of gum of xanthan, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprising at least 0.2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Gelled aqueous phase composition comprising ascorbic acid and at least one C-glycoside.

The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ keratin materials ” is understood to mean in particular the skin, lips and/or eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or face, and more preferably of the face.

Skin aging results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. Thus, during the aging process, an alteration of the skin structure and functions appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines originating from sagging and loss of tissue elasticity.

Furthermore, intrinsic aging, which induces skin changes, notably causes a slowdown in skin cell renewal, which mainly results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a loss of vertical fibers of the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

It is known to introduce active ingredients into cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions in order to combat the signs of aging.

Among these active ingredients, ascorbic acid is known to stimulate the synthesis of connective tissue and in particular collagen, strengthen the defenses of skin tissue against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensate for the skin's vitamin E deficiency, depigment the skin and have an anti-free radical function. Due to its properties, it is therefore particularly advantageous for combating the signs of skin aging, for example to reduce fine lines and/or wrinkles in the skin, and to improve the radiance of the complexion. Thus, there has been a long-standing attempt to formulate ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) in cosmetic compositions and dermatological, in different galenic forms, and in particular in large quantities to take maximum advantage of its properties.

Similarly, C-glycoside derivatives are active ingredients considered in cosmetics to combat the aging of the epidermis and/or dryness of the skin.

For their cosmetic formulation, galenic architectures with an aqueous phase and particularly gelled would be particularly interesting, particularly with regard to their sensory properties.

Unfortunately, ascorbic acid and C-glycoside are both not very stable in such architectures. Indeed, the active ascorbic acid and the C-glycoside derivative have the major disadvantage of carrying salts, destabilizing these formulations. Of course, this instability is exacerbated when these two active ingredients are incorporated jointly, particularly in large quantities, within aqueous gels.

There therefore remains a need to be able to implement, in a stabilized manner, significant contents of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, and of C-glycoside, in cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations comprising a gelled aqueous phase, and in particular whose content of gelled aqueous phase is at least equal to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

There is also a need for such stable cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations to have good sensoriality.

Finally, there also remains a need for these cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations to meet current consumer requirements in terms of environmental respect.

The invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising:
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least 0.05% by weight of at least one C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one aqueous phase, and
- if applicable, a fatty phase,
said aqueous phase being gelled by at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts and at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum, relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least 0.2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight of PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to effectively stabilize in a gelled aqueous medium, significant quantities of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, and of C-glycoside compound.

Indeed, as is apparent from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention are stable, particularly from a rheological point of view.

Furthermore, it has been found that the compositions according to the invention have organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise controversial ingredients, and in particular does not comprise ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, nor silicone compounds, nor parabens. Thus, the compositions in accordance with the invention meet consumer requirements in terms of environmental compliance.

A composition according to the invention is in particular used for the care of keratin materials and in particular the skin.

Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. It is understood that in the present description and unless otherwise specified, the percentages by weight are expressed by weight of active material for all of the detailed ingredients.

Detailed description ASCORBIC ACID AND DERIVATIVES

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight and preferably at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 5% to 12% by weight, preferably from 7% to 10% by weight, of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and/or one of its derivatives and preferably ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

As derivatives of ascorbic acid, mention may be made in particular of ose esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The ose esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or even 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds as well as their preparation processes are in particular described in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and JP5213736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

Suitable ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention may be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by the company Exsymol, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the company Hayashibara.

Preferably, the ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives present in a composition according to the invention is ascorbic acid.

C-GLYCOSIDES

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.05% by weight of a C-glycoside. It is recalled that in the present description, the percentages by weight are expressed by weight of active material.

The C-glycoside compounds usable in the present invention have the following general formula:

in which:
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear _C1 - _C4 alkyl radical, in particular _C1 - _C2 , in particular methyl;
- S represents the radical of a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a motif chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be mentioned:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, notably marketed under the name Mexoryl SBB ^® or Mexoryl SCN ^® by Chimex or under the name Mexoryl SCS by Noveal.

Salts of C-glycosides suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

The C-glycosides of the formula illustrated above are known from WO 02/051828.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane whose INCI name is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 14% by weight, in particular from 1% to 12% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight of C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight and preferably at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives and at least 3% by weight of C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight and preferably at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid and at least 3% by weight of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By " water-soluble solvent " according to the present invention is meant a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one _C2 - _C32 polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ polyol ” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly at least four –OH functions.

The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

The polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 17% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 70% by weight, in particular from 75% to 93% by weight, and more particularly from 85% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

As specified above, this aqueous phase is implemented in a gelled form.

Gelling agents of the aqueous phase

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or one of its salts and at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight, of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or one of its salts relative to the total weight of the composition.

The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer usable in the composition according to the invention comprises 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of the following formula (I):

Where X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation, or the ammonium ion.

In particular, said 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer may be chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, for example such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), for example such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, said 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer is chosen from crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, for example the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, such as for example the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 revolutions per minute).

Xanthan gums are, for example, those sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Solvay, under the name Satiaxane ^TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan ^TM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan ^® and Keltrol ^® by the company CP-Kelco.

SURFACTANT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

As specified above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not.

More specifically, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight of PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the type of surfactant required according to the invention, a composition according to the invention may contain one or more surfactants chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C₈-C₂₄, and preferably in C₁₂-C₁₈ ; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as Brij^®78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”) and the mixture of fatty alcohols in C₁₂-C₁₅comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “C_12-15Pareth-7 ») such as that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7^®by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular C fatty alcohols₈-C₂₄, and preferably in C₁₂-C₁₈, ethoxylated such as 2-oxyethylene ethoxylated stearyl alcohol (CTFA name “Steareth-2”) such as Brij^®72 marketed by the Uniqema company.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. Examples include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween ^® 20 marketed by the company Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO or even Cremophor ^® (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. Another example is the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name Arlacel ^® 2121U-FL from Croda.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units, are preferably used. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C ₉ /C ₁₁ -polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 ^® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ^® by the company Henkel and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS 10 ^® by the company Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 ^® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110 ^® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ^® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ^® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP ^® by the company Henkel; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP ^® by the company Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, the INCI name of which is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov ^® 202 by the company Seppic; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one geminal surfactant.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one geminal surfactant of chemical formula (A) or one of its stereoisomers:

in which:
Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, in particular a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2), and
l represents an integer ranging from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (A), l represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.

Preferably, in formula (A), Y’ represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2, and l = 10.

Examples of geminal surfactants of formula (A) include sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) described in particular in application WO 2004/020394.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is in particular marketed by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pellicer L-30 and Pellicer LB-10.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and their mixtures and in particular at least sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.01% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 0.75% by weight of at least one geminal surfactant and in particular from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:

- at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition;

- at least 3% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- at least 0.5% by weight of at least one crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate,

- at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition;

- 0.2% by weight of PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate relative to the total weight of the composition and

- at least 0.35% by weight of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), and more preferably is free of silicone surfactant(s).

FATTY PHASE

A composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase.

The fatty phase preferably contains at least one liquid fatty substance such as an oil, in particular a cosmetic oil.

" Oil " means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or their mixtures.

Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

By " non-volatile " is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ^{- 3} mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ silicone oil ” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term " fluorinated oil " means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

" Hydrocarbon oil " means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

For the purposes of the invention, the term " volatile oil " means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa ( ^{10 -3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

Volatile oils

Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C ₈ -C ₁₆ , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As cyclic silicone volatile oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include:
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as squalane, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,
- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate;
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
- higher fatty acids _C12 - _C22 , such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate,
- non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and
- phenylated silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
as well as mixtures of these different oils.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one synthetic ester as defined above, in particular lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, and at least one fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular 2-octyldodecanol .

According to another particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one synthetic ester as defined above, in particular lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, and at least one fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular 2-octyldodecanol in combination with a synthetic ether as defined above, such as dicapryl ether or with a fatty alcohol ester extracted from vegetable oil, such as coco caprylate/caprate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 4% by weight, and more particularly from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight in fatty phase, and in particular at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise:

- at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least 3% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, relative to the total weight of the composition - - at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, preferably of at least one crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, such as for example the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant,

- at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition;

from 0.2% to 2% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- at least one surfactant chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and

- at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil in particular chosen from synthetic esters, in particular lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, and fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular 2-octyldodecanol and their mixtures.

ADDITIONAL ASSETS

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active agent, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active agents, and preferably at least three cosmetic active agents distinct respectively from C-glycoside and from ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives.

In particular, the additional cosmetic active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

Examples of hydrophilic active ingredients include moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional asset(s) may in particular be chosen from:
- vitamins other than vitamin C and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopheryl acetate),
- moisturizers such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, and xylitylglycoside, and in particular glycerol;
- antioxidant compounds;
- anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; and
- their mixtures.

Salicylic acid compounds

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

in which:
- the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;

as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base.

Preferably, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification by a mineral or organic base.

The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds include n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound is preferably selected from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds of the formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, we can cite amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

The compounds of the formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378 936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP-A-570,230.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one salicylic acid compound in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic Acid

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a sequence by alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the preparation methods.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the joint synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the apophysis cristagalli.

Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

As an illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, we can refer to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R.Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

In particular, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, we speak of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which may also be suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution rate at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have been described in particular in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

The molecular weights given above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid may be supplied in particular by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 10 ⁶ ), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. This is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely PM 1.5 x 10 ⁶ , 400,000 and 600,000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 3% and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizer, preferably glycerin and a hyaluronic acid compound, in particular sodium hyaluronate.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise from 1% to 22% by weight of glycerol, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 17% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, coloring materials, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, cosmetic active ingredients such as for example healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and/or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say that it comprises less than 0.01% by weight, or even is free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and/or parabens, and preferably is free of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and parabens.

Composition

As stated above, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and/or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic.

A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to dissuade the user from applying this composition.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.

For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin, a composition is advantageously in the form of a solution or an aqueous dispersion of the lotion or serum type, or even emulsions of liquid consistency obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel or a serum.

In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8.

Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7, or even from 4 to 6.5.

A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

destination of the composition

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the body or the face, preferably of the face.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a care product for the face and/or body.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base for keratin materials, in particular for the face.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, preferably for the care, in particular of the skin of the body and/or the face.

In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented with the aim of combating the signs of skin aging.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging.

The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression " comprising a " should be understood as being synonymous with " comprising at least one ", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions “ between … and … ”, “ includes from … to … ”, “ formed from … to … ”, and “ ranging from … to … ” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

Examples Measurement and evaluation methods Stability measurement

The stability of the compositions is evaluated at different time intervals and temperatures as follows: at room temperature (25°C) after T = 24 hours; at 55°C after T = 15 days; at 4°C and at room temperature (25°C) after T = 1 month and T = 2 months; and at 37°C and 45°C, after T = 1 month and T = 2 months.

If a phase shift, release or change in appearance is observed after a period of less than 2 months, it is concluded that there is a lack of stability.

Sensory evaluation test:

This evaluation is carried out on a panel of 13 women, regular consumers of cosmetic compositions, in particular makeup and/or care.

The criteria of greasy effect, immediate sticky effect and sticky effect after application were assessed on a scale of 0 (no effect) to 15 (exacerbated effect) according to the following gestural and tactile protocols:

- Determination of a fat effect after a application of the product on the arm

Application on one arm, making 5 turns with the index and middle fingers, then tactile evaluation with these 2 fingers of the sensation of fat during spreading.

- Determination of tightness at level of the face immediately after application of the product

Application to a face and evaluation of the sensation of adhesion between the skin of the cheek and the back of the fingers, index and middle fingers, just after application.

Determining the tightness at the face level 2 minutes after application of the product

-Application to the face and evaluation of the sensation of adhesion between the skin of the cheek and the back of the fingers, index and middle fingers, 2 minutes after application.

For each of the determinations, a score below 10 is considered acceptable and below 7 is considered very satisfactory .

Example 1

The anti-aging facial care compositions, 1 according to the invention, and 2 outside the invention, are prepared, from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. The values are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Protocol for the preparation of compositions

The compositions are prepared with a Maxilab from the Olsa company, equipped with an internal and external blade and an emulsifier.

The compounds of phase A are weighed into the main tank and heated to 65°C. When the temperature is reached, the mixture is homogenized for 10 minutes (emulsifier at 1500 rpm and an internal blade at 40 rpm and an external blade at 80 rpm). Then phase A2 is added and the mixture is left stirring.

At the same time, phase C is prepared in a beaker with stirring using a magnetic bar until a clear and colorless phase is obtained. The mixture is then introduced into the main tank (emulsifier at 3000 rpm and an internal blade at 120 rpm and an external blade at 60 rpm for 10 minutes).

The compounds of phase B are introduced, the mixture is maintained at 50°C and homogenized until the phase is homogeneous and grain-free (emulsifier at 3000 rpm and an internal blade 120 rpm and an external blade 60 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes).

After homogenization, the heating is stopped and the mixture is cooled to between 15 and 20 °C. The compounds of phase D are previously homogenized by stirring with a magnetic bar and added to the tank (emulsifier at 3000 rpm and an internal blade at 120 rpm and an external blade at 60 rpm for 10 minutes).

Phase E, then phase F, previously prepared with stirring using a magnetic bar, are added to the mixture (emulsifier at 3000 rpm and planetary with an internal blade at 120 rpm and an external blade at 60 rpm for 10 minutes).

Results

Composition 1 according to the invention is stable.

On the contrary, composition 2, outside the invention, exhibits a change in appearance over time and is therefore unstable.

Example 2

The anti-aging facial care compositions 3 and 4 according to the invention, and 5 and 6 outside the invention, are prepared according to the protocol specified in example 1 and from the weight proportions detailed in table 2 below. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Results

Compositions 3 and 4 according to the invention are stable.

On the contrary, compositions 5 and 6, outside the invention, are unstable because they are subject to a change in appearance.

Example 3

The anti-aging facial care compositions, 7 according to the invention, and 8 to 10 outside the invention, are prepared according to the protocol specified in example 1 and from the weight proportions as detailed in table 3 below. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Results

Composition 7 according to the invention is stable.

On the contrary, compositions 8, 9 and 10 outside the invention exhibit a change in appearance over time and are therefore unstable.

Furthermore, composition 7 according to the invention is characterized by a greasy effect of between 4 and 5, an immediate sticky effect of between 4.5 and 5.5 and a sticky effect 2 minutes after application of between 5 and 7.

It follows that only composition 7 according to the invention has both satisfactory stability and texture.

Example 4

The anti-aging facial care composition 11 according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below and according to the operating method specified in example 1. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Results

Composition 11 according to the invention is stable.

Furthermore, composition 11 according to the invention is characterized by a greasy effect of between 4 and 5, an immediate sticky effect of between 4.5 and 5.5 and a sticky effect 2 minutes after application of between 5 and 7.

As a result, composition 11 according to the invention has both satisfactory stability and texture.

Example 5

The anti-aging facial care compositions 12 and 13 according to the invention are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, according to the protocol specified in example 1. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Results

Compositions 12 and 13 according to the invention are stable.

Claims (19)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising:
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least 0.05% by weight of at least one C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-at least one aqueous phase, and
- if necessary, a fatty phase;
said aqueous phase being gelled by at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprising at least 0.2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glucose or alkylglucose, polyoxyethylenated or not, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 5% to 12% by weight, preferably from 7% to 10% by weight, of ascorbic acid, and/or one of its derivatives and preferably of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to 14% by weight, in particular from 1% to 12% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight of C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 5% by weight and preferably at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid and at least 3% by weight of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight of at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or one of its salts relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer is chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate and their mixtures and in particular from crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.2% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight of PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one geminal surfactant, in particular chosen from sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, sodium distearoylglutamide lysine and their mixtures and in particular at least sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 0.75% by weight of at least one geminal surfactant and in particular from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises:
- at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least 3% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least 0.5% by weight of at least one crosslinked polymer of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate,
- at least 0.1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition
- 0.2% by weight of PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate relative to its total weight and
- at least 0.35% by weight of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 70% by weight, in particular from 75% to 93% by weight, and more particularly from 85% to 90% by weight of aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 4% by weight, and more particularly from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight in fatty phase and in particular at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient, in particular at least two additional cosmetic active ingredients, and preferably at least three additional cosmetic active ingredients, distinct respectively from C-glycoside and from ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of silicone compound, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and parabens. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous gel or a serum. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a composition for the care of the skin of the body or face, preferably the face. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.