FR3131692A1 - Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol and a non-ionic guar gum - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol and a nonionic guar gum weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol and a non-ionic guar gum

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol and non-ionic guar gum, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, comprising these.

STATE OF THE ART

In the field of cosmetics, cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain care effects are increasingly sought after by users. In order to obtain caring effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In cosmetic compositions including cosmetic active agents for keratinous substances, an oil can be used as a medium in the formulation in order to obtain a good penetration property of the active agents in keratinous substances.

For example, document JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one aliphatic C ₂ -C ₆ monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least a hydrophilic active agent, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

However, cosmetic compositions comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol pose a problem in that these compositions can cause greasy sensations during application. Therefore, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions comprising oil and water-soluble alcohol, which are more stable and can provide good texture.

disclosure of the invention

An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition comprising an oil and an alcohol, which can provide an improved feel to keratinous materials, such as skin, scalp and hair.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent,

(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,

(c) at least one oil,

(d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and

(e) water in an amount of 30% or less by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The (d) at least one nonionic guar gum may be a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferably a hydroxypropyl guar gum or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum.

The (d) at least one nonionic guar gum may have a degree of substitution greater than 0.6, preferably 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more, more preferably still more 0.9 or more, preferably 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.

The (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may include at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol in combination.

The (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 65%. at 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) at least one oil may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols and combinations thereof.

The quantity of (c) the at least one oil can range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may be chosen from moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, an ingredient promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents. and their mixtures.

The quantity of (a) the at least one hydrophilic active agent can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12%. by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) water (e) may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the composition according to the present invention, it is in the form of a homogeneous solution.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition of the leave-on type.

The (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one diol, and the quantity of the at least one diol may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight. weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning a keratinous material, such as the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention. .

The cosmetic process may not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after application of the composition.

After diligent research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that the use of a specific non-ionic guar gum can provide a composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent and specific amounts of at least one water-soluble alcohol. water, at least one oil and water with improved stability while avoiding greasy sensations during application, and thus achieved the present invention.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent,

(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,

(c) at least one oil,

(d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and

(e) water in an amount of 30% or less by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Below, the cosmetic composition and the cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and (e) water. The ingredients of the composition will be described in detail below.

(Hydrophilic active agent)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent. Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents can be used.

By “hydrophilic active agent”, we mean here an active agent for the skin and/or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water. at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, an ingredient promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents and their mixtures.

Preferably, said hydrophilic active agent is chosen from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from the following C-glycosides of general formula (I):

(I)

in which :

- R indicates a linear C ₁ -C ₄ and in particular unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical, in particular methyl;

- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH ₂ )- and preferably a group -CH(OH)-;

and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycosidic derivatives of formula (I) more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be cited:

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane .

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention can advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, sold in particular under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL. The salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) which are suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples that may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more groups of carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acids. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

C-glycosides (I) are also known from document WO 02/051828.

In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular of formula (II) below:

(II),

in which :

- the radical Ra indicates:

- a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms;

- an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds that can be conjugated;

- an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

said groups being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents chosen from:

(a) halogen atoms,

(b) the trifluoromethyl group,

(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in form esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or

(d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Rb is a hydroxyl group;

as well as their salts derived from an inorganic or organic base.

According to one embodiment, the radical Ra indicates:

- a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing 3 to 11 carbon atoms; Or

- an unsaturated chain containing 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;

said hydrocarbon-based chains being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents chosen from:

(a) halogen atoms;

(b) the trifluoromethyl group;

(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in esterified form with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Or

(d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

as well as their salts obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base. The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the Ra radical is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), the following may be cited: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts. The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid will be used more particularly. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) is supplied under the name Mexoryl SAB® by the company Chimex.

Examples of inorganic bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or liquid ammonia. Among the organic bases that may be mentioned are amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for example those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP A-570,230.

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of ingredients promoting blood circulation, such as Dl-α-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, γ-oryzanol, capsaicin, benzyl ester of nicotinic acid, and the like.

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of an amino acid or its derivative, such as betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine. , β-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine , taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan and the like.

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of water-soluble polysaccharides, such as gums, for example gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerotia gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind, quince gum, gum arabic, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, gum arabic, acacia gum, tragacanth, curdrane, succinoglucan, etc. ; carrageenan; heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and the like.

The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight. or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 % to 12% by weight, even more preferably 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Alcohol soluble in water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols can be used in combination. So, a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols can be used.

The term "water-soluble alcohol" herein means an alcohol which can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 ml of water at temperature ambient (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

The water-soluble alcohol of the present invention can be chosen from a monoalcohol and a polyol. In some embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.

Monoalcohol

The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol, having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying a single hydroxyl function (OH).

In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

The expression “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, carrying a single hydroxyl function (OH).

The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

Polyol

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol which is suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, a polyol which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear, carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, so more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyols which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear, having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; we can cite in particular:

- diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; And

- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

and their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular a triol, in combination.

The composition according to the present invention comprises the water-soluble alcohol(s) in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, and even more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 65%. at 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be present in an amount of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and still more preferably 65% by weight or more; and may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, and even more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the polyol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises both the monoalcohol and the polyol, preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 1 % to 25% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, even more preferably, a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight and of the polyol in an amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and in particular a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight and polyol in an amount ranging from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol, and the diol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, particularly a triol, and the polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups may be present in one amount of 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 1.2% by weight or more ; and may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight; more preferably, the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8% in weight ; even more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 1% to 5% by weight ; and in particular the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 10% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 1.2% to 3% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one oil. Two or more types of oils can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils can be used.

“Oil” here means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

Among the oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and atoms. /or phosphorus. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not include silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

In particular, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- δ _h characterizes the strengths of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid/base bonds, donor/acceptor bonds, and the like);

- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ²) ^½ .

The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a δ _a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a δ _a of between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or their mixture.

The oil can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

As examples of vegetable oils, we can cite, for example, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, oil rapeseed, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

The ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, of preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 atoms of carbon, and more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is ³ 10.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or myristate ethyl, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is preferable that the ester oil is chosen from fatty acid ester oils.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy alcohols. , tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy in C ₄ -C ₂₆ .

We can in particular cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-carrying hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or their mixtures such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

R ¹ -OR ²

in which

each of R ¹ and R ² independently represents a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group . It is preferable that R ¹ and R ² are identical.

As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1- ethylhexyl, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)- group 2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

As a cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri (glyceryl caprate/caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia , and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. As an example, we can cite decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

- Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

- oils from the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 whose viscosity is 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oil.

The phenylsilicone oil can be chosen from phenylsilicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are radicals based on C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably radicals based on C ₁ - hydrocarbons. C ₁₂ , and more preferably radicals based on C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- Bayer PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl groups; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus cite the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane; And

- mixtures of alkanes, for example, Alkane in C9-12, Alkane in C10-13, Alkane in C13-14, Alkane in C13-15, Alkane in C14-17, Alkane in C14-19, Alkane in C15- 19, Alkane in C15-23, Alkane in C18-21, Alkane in C8-9/Cycloalkane, Alkane in C9-10/Cycloalkane, Alkane in C9-11/Cycloalkane, Alkane in C9-16/Cycloalkane, Alkane in C10- 12/Cycloalkane, C11-14 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C11-15 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane/Cycloalkane.

Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly. or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the framework of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated radicals, linear and branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferred from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably C 6 -C 30 alcohols. C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here designates an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from any saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, linear or branched. Among the saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can be used preferably. Any saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol, linear or branched, can be used more preferably. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used in an even more preferred manner.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and their mixtures. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or their mixture (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol .

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferable that the oil is chosen from oils whose molecular mass is less than 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the oil has a low molecular mass such as less than 600 g/mol, chosen from ester oils with one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isonyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ), such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

It is preferable that the oil is selected from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferable that the oil includes both ester oils and fatty alcohols, particularly monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols represented by the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a fatty acid linear comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from branched radicals saturated containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

The amount of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15%. by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more N-acylamino acid ester oils in an amount less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than at 1% by weight, and more preferably even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment according to the present invention, the composition is free of N-acylamino acid ester oil. As an example of an N-acylamino acid ester oil, we can cite isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

(Non-ionic guar gum)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum. Two or more types of nonionic guar gums can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of non-ionic guar gum or a combination of different types of non-ionic guar gums can be used.

The term “nonionic guar gum” herein refers to a guar gum which is modified by at least one nonionic functional group. The functional group may be a hydroxyalkyl group, for example, a C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group. Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic guar gum is a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferably a gum hydroxypropyl guar or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular a hydroxypropyl guar gum.

Guar gum is a complex carbohydrate polymer composed primarily of a linear chain of mannose units with single-membered galactose branches; classified chemically as a polygalactomannan. The mannose units are linked in a 1-4-beta-glycosidic linkage and galactose branching occurs by means of a 1-6 linkage on alternating mannose units. The ratio between galactose and mannose in the guar polymer is therefore one to two.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, nonionic guar gum, particularly hydroxypropyl guar gum, has a degree of substitution greater than 0.6. The term “degree of substitution” here refers to the average substitution of nonionic groups by anhydrosugar unit in polygalactomannan gums. In guar gum, since the basic unit of the polymer consists of two mannose units with a glycosidic bond and a galactose unit attached to a hydroxyl group of one of the mannose units, each of the anhydro sugar units contains three available hydroxyl sites on average. A substitution degree of three would mean that all available hydroxyl sites have been esterified with the nonionic groups.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, nonionic guar gum, particularly hydroxypropyl guar gum, has a degree of substitution of 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more , even more preferably 0.9 or more, preferably 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.

The degree of substitution of the nonionic guar gum of the present invention, especially hydroxypropyl guar gum, is not particularly limited, and thus it may be 3.0 or less.

Nonionic guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, may advantageously have a weight average molecular mass of 50,000 g/mol to 10,000,000 g/mol, preferably of 200,000 g/mol to 5,000 000 g/mol and more preferably from 1,000,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol. The weight average molecular mass can be measured here using, for example, gas permeation chromatography.

Commercially available non-ionic guar gum products include:

- hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name Jaguar ® HP 120 by SOLVAY; And

- hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name Jaguar ® HSG by SOLVAY.

The amount of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0 .3% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.

The composition according to the present invention comprises water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably still preferred by 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, chosen from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetration agents; a pH adjuster; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; suspension agents; sequestering agents; a tampon ; the perfumes ; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; conservatives ; co-preservers; opacifying agents; agents that can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise plant extracts, such as extracts of Nymphaeaceae, for example, a root extract of Nymphaea alba .

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not significantly, affected. negatively by the planned addition.

The adjuvants may be present in the second composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0 .5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion ( in O/W or W/O form), multiple emulsions (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W and O/W/O) and the like. In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “homogeneous” designates a composition consisting of a single phase.

In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention, in an amount 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, based on weight total composition. In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any surfactant other than components (a) to (d) of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous materials.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratinous materials” means skin and keratinous fibers. The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin of the face and/or body and the scalp. The term “keratinous fiber” used here includes eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratinous materials such as the scalp and hair. In some embodiments, the composition may be a hair care and/or scalp care and/or skin care composition.

The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. The term “leave-in” refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed or removed immediately after application. The leave-on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be removed by rinsing after being used on keratinous materials.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes well known to those skilled in the art.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning a keratinous material, such as the hair, scalp and/or skin, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or conditioning of keratinous material.

The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, and a brush. The application step may be a topical application step.

The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-in type cosmetic composition. Consequently, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied to the keratinous material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.

Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and/or conditioning of a keratinous material.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

(Preparation)

The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The hydroxypropyl guar gum products Jaguar ® HP 120 and Jaguar ® HSG were obtained from Solvay . The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product of MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL. The numerical values of ingredient quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

(Stability)

10 g of each of the compositions obtained were stored at 4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃ for two months after their manufacture, respectively. The stability property was evaluated for each composition according to the following criteria.

OK: The composition has been thickened at 4℃, 25℃, and 45℃.

NG: The composition was not thickened, the ingredient was not soluble, or phase separation occurred at 4℃, 25℃, and/or 45℃.

Ingredients Example 1 Example 2 Ex. 1 comp. Example 2
comp. Ex. 3 comp. Ex. 4 comp. Ex. 5 comp. Ex. 6 comp. Ex. 7 comp. Ethanol 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 Glycerin 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Propylene glycol 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Nymphaea Alba Root Extract 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Isostearyl alcohol 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Isopropyl myristate 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 hydroxypropyl guar gum (Jaguar® HP 120) 0.4 - - - - - - - - hydroxypropyl guar gum
(Jaguar® HP HSG) - 0.4 - - - - - - - hydroxypropyl guar gum
(Jaguar® HP8 (COS)SGI) - - 0.4 - - - - - - Hydroxypropyl Cellulose - - - 1 - - - - - Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose - - - - 0.4 - - - - Sclerotia gum - - - - - 0.4 - - - Dehydroxanthan gum - - - - - - 0.4 - - Acrylate copolymer - - - - - - - 0.4 - cross-linked polymer PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 - - - - - - - - 0.4 deionized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Assessment Stability OK OK N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G.

As can be seen in the results in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 could be thickened with ingredients (a) to (e) of the present invention, they therefore showed good stability. On the other hand, the compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 7, which do not include the nonionic guar gum of the present invention, did not show good stability. Specifically, in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1, 3 to 5 and 7, hydroxypropyl guar gum (Jaguar ® HP8 (COS) SGI), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sclerotium gum and the cross-linked polymer PEG-12 dimethicone /PPG-20 dehydroxanthan gum, respectively, were not dissolved in the composition, and therefore the thickening effect was not obtained. In the composition according to comparative example 2, no thickening effect was obtained. In the composition according to comparative example 6, a phase separation was observed.

(Sensory evaluations)

Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair sections was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 2 below. After shampooing, the section of hair was rinsed with water and then dried with a towel. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 8 were applied to each strand of hair. The section of hair was left for 5 minutes. The composition according to Comparative Example 8 was prepared in the same way as that of Example 1. The lock of hair was rinsed under running water and then dried with a hair dryer to obtain a treated lock of hair. The formulation of Comparative Example 7 as well as that of Example 1 are shown in Table 3. The numerical values for the ingredient quantities in Tables 2 and 3 are all based on "% by weight" as as active raw materials.

The oiliness and softness of the treated hair strand was evaluated by 5 panelists according to the following criteria. The reference point designates the result of the evaluation of the hair strand itself, that is to say without the application of any composition.

5: Much above the reference point

4: Greater than the reference point

3: Parity with the reference point

2: Below the reference point

1: Much lower than the reference point

The average of the scores thus obtained was calculated. The results are shown in the row titled “Sensory Evaluations” of Table 3.

(Softness (CDF))

Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair sections was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 2 below. After shampooing, the section of hair was rinsed with water and then dried with a towel. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 8 were applied to each strand of hair, and left for 5 minutes. The hair strand was then rinsed under running water for up to 5 seconds and then dried naturally under ambient conditions at 24°C/40% RH for at least 30 minutes to obtain a treated hair strand.

The treated hair strand was placed on a plate, and its root side was fixed on the plate with a hair clip. The softness of the treated hair strand was assessed by scanning the hair strand from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab) and measuring the CDF (Coefficient Of Friction). The measurement was carried out 3 times for a single strand of treated hair. The same procedure was performed with two other strands of hair to obtain 9 results in total for one composition, and the average values were calculated for each composition. A lower result indicates that a better smoothing effect can be exerted.

The CDF of the hair strand itself was 0.20.

The results are shown in the row labeled “Softness (CDF)” in Table 3. The smaller the CDF, the greater the softness.

Ingredients Cleansing shampoo Hexylene Glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Coco-Betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Citric acid qs pH 5.3 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 5.3 DI water Qs 100

Ingredients Example 1 Ex. 8 comp. Ethanol 68.17 68.17 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 Glycerin 1.5 1.5 Propylene glycol 7 7 Nymphaea Alba Root Extract 0.25 0.25 Isostearyl alcohol 1 1 Isopropyl myristate 5 5 Menthol 0.3 0.3 Scent 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar gum (Jaguar® HP 120) 0.4 - deionized water qs 100 qs 100 Assessment Sensory evaluations Candy 4 3 Fat 2.41 2.92 Softness (CDF) 0.2 0.23

As shown by the results in Table 3, the composition according to Example 1 was able to confer a better texture, that is to say a softer and less greasy texture, to the hair.

Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is quite suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is very useful as a topical leave-on cosmetic composition because it has a soft and less greasy texture although it comprises an oil and a water-soluble alcohol.

Claims (10)

Composition including:
(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent,
(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,
(c) at least one oil,
(d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and
(e) water in an amount of 30% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (d) at least one nonionic guar gum is a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferably a hydroxypropyl guar gum or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular a hydroxypropyl guar gum. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (d) at least one nonionic guar gum has a degree of substitution greater than 0.6, preferably 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more, even more preferably 0.9 or more, preferably 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol in combination. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which (c) at least one oil is chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent is chosen from moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-aging agents; mattifying agents; healing agents; an ingredient promoting blood circulation; antibacterial agents; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is in the form of a homogeneous solution. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Cosmetic process for the care and/or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8. Cosmetic process according to claim 9, which does not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and more preferably again within 8 hours after application of the composition.