FR3015281A1 - COSMETIC USE OF AN ESSENTIAL OIL OF LASERPITIUM SILER L. FOR LIGHTENING KERATINIC MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Laserpitium Siler L., as an active ingredient for depigmenting, lightening and / or whitening keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body, and / or to prevent, reduce and / or treat an alteration of skin tone or shade of semi-mucous membranes. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for depigmentation, lightening and / or bleaching of keratin materials, and / or for the prevention, reduction and / or treatment of an alteration of the complexion of the skin or of the hue of the semi-mucous membranes.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, more particularly intended for the care of keratinous substances, in particular for the care of the skin of the face and / or the body. More particularly, the present invention aims to propose the use of a new active ingredient for effectively depigmenting and / or lightening, or even bleaching, keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body and / or improving the complexion, in particular its homogeneity and its brilliance. The color of human skin is mainly determined by the nature and concentration of a pigment, melanin. There are two types of melanin in epidermal cells, eumelanin, a brown-black pigment, and pheomelanin, a yellow-red pigment. Melanin is synthesized by specific dendritic cells, called melanocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Melanogenesis, that is to say the formation of melanin, takes place in particular organelles, melanosomes which, loaded with melanin, are transferred to neighboring epidermal cells, the keratinocytes, via the dendrites. The mechanism of melanogenesis is particularly complex and involves schematically the following main steps: Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanine Within the melanosomes, three enzymes, namely Tyrosinase, Tyrpl (for Tyrosinase-related protein 1), and Dct / Tyrp2 (for DOPAchrome tautomerase / Tyrosinase-related protein 2) play a major role in the production of melanins. More particularly, tyrosinase is the essential enzyme that regulates the early stages of the synthesis of pheomelanin and eumelanin. The pigmentation of the skin of the face and / or the body, and more particularly the constitutive pigmentation of the skin, is a function of various factors such as the seasons of the year, race and sex. In addition, at different periods of their life, some people see appear on their skin and especially on the hands, darker and / or more colored spots, giving the skin a heterogeneity. These spots are also due to a high concentration of melanin in keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin. Thus, when the pigmentation process is impaired, this can lead to pigmentation defects, hypopigmentations or conversely to an excess of pigmentation, hyperpigmentations. Among the benign hyperpigmentary disorders, characterized by an abnormal accumulation (excluding tanning) of melanin, mention may be made of the actinic lentigo (also called senile or solar lentigo, senile spot, age spot, or also commonly known as "senile dirt", "daisies cemetery "or" cemetery flowers "), lentigines, ephelids, melasmas such as idiopathic melasmas occurring during pregnancy (" pregnancy mask "or chloasma) or estrogen-progestative contraception, the sequelae pigmentosa of acne, post-inflammatory pigmentation, dermatitis of the meadows, pigmentation related to the plant poison ivy or even benign dyschromias of the face.

These benign cutaneous pigment disorders are generally considered unsightly. Many processes, mainly for cosmetic purposes, have therefore been developed in an attempt to eliminate or reduce the presence of these pigment disorders. The elimination or reduction of the presence of these disorders is usually based on the application of depigmenting treatments, based on the reduction of melanin synthesis activity in melanocytes. The depigmenting molecules are distinguished from anti-pigmenting molecules that limit the action of the stresses responsible for pigmentation due for example to ultraviolet radiation. More specifically, a molecule is recognized as depigmenting if it acts directly on the vitality of melanogenesis of epidermal melanocytes, and / or if it interferes with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in the melanogenesis. melanogenesis, either by intercalating itself as a structural analogue of one of the chemical compounds of the melanin synthesis chain, which chain can then be blocked and thus ensure depigmentation.

One of the main pathways explored so far is the inhibition of tyrosinase. The purpose of these treatments is to reduce or even stop the synthesis of pigment. The main known depigmenting substances are hydroquinone and its derivatives, in particular its ethers such as hydroquinone monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, kojic acid, arbutin, iminophenols, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, combination of carnitine and quinone, amino phenol derivatives, and benzothiazole derivatives, natural extracts, corticosteroids, etc.

However, there are major disadvantages associated with the use of the aforementioned depigmenting agents. In fact, the depigmenting substances may exhibit in particular a certain instability, a low efficiency at low concentration, a biological activity affecting other functions, toxic or allergenic properties.

For example, with respect to hydroquinone and its derivatives, although these compounds have certain effectiveness, they are unfortunately not free of side effects because of their toxicity, which can make their use difficult, even dangerous. This toxicity stems from the fact that they interfere with the fundamental mechanisms of melanogenesis by killing cells that may disturb their biological environment and therefore force the skin to evacuate them by producing toxins. Thus, the use of harmless topical depigmenting substances having good efficacy is particularly sought in order to effectively depigment and / or lighten, or even to whiten keratinous substances, in particular the skin, and / or to prevent, reduce and / or or to treat an alteration of the skin tone or the shade of the semi-mucous membranes, that is to say in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or to revive the radiance of the complexion. There is therefore still a need for a new bleaching agent for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, which also makes it possible in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and to revive the radiance of the complexion, with an action as effective as those known, but not having their disadvantages, that is to say that is stable, non-toxic to the skin and effective even at low concentration. In this respect, the applicant company surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the essential oil of Laserpitium Suer L. exhibited a good depigmenting activity as well as an action to prevent, reduce and / or treat an alteration of the complexion of the skin. or the hue of the semi-mucous membranes, that is to say in particular an activity making it possible to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and to revive the radiance of the complexion, even at low concentration. Thus, according to a first subject, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Laserpitium Siler L., as an active ingredient for depigmenting, lightening and / or bleaching keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face and / or or the body and / or to prevent, reduce and / or treat an alteration of skin tone or shade of semi-mucous membranes. The inventors have indeed demonstrated that the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. has a depigmenting, lightening or even whitening activity of keratin materials, especially the skin. More particularly, it has been shown, as detailed in the experimental part below, that the essential oil of Laserpitium Suer L. acts on the constitutive pigmentation of the skin and therefore on the synthesis of melanin. One of the advantages of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention is that it is obtained from a natural active ingredient.

In particular, according to this first aspect, the present invention aims at protecting the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. for the treatment of at least one unsightly benign pigmentary disorder chosen from the hyperpigmentations, the actinic lentigo, the lentigines, ephelides, chloasma, melasmas, idiopathic melasmas occurring during pregnancy or oestro-progestative contraception, acne pigment sequelae, post-inflammatory pigmentation, prairie dermatitis, pigmentation related to poison ivy plant, benign dyschromias of the face. According also to this first aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or revive the radiance of the complexion.

The essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. is, to date, not known to be used to depigment, lighten or even whiten keratin materials, especially the skin, nor to improve the homogeneity of the complexion, nor to revive the skin. radiance of the complexion. The present invention also aims at protecting a process for the cosmetic, non-therapeutic, depigmentation, lightening and / or bleaching treatment of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin of the face and / or of the body and / or of prevention, reduction and / or treating an alteration of the skin tone or tint of semi-mucous membranes comprising at least one step of applying to the skin of the face and / or the body at least one composition comprising essential oil of Laserpitium Suer L ..

The composition that is suitable for the invention, namely intended for the implementation of the invention, is a cosmetic composition, and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "prevent" or "prevention" means to reduce, at least in part, the risk of occurrence of a given phenomenon, ie in the present invention an alteration of the complexion of the skin or shade of semi-mucous membranes.

ESSENTIAL OIL OF LASERPITIUM SILER L. A composition suitable for the invention comprises the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L.

Laserpitium siler L., also called Laser siler, Sermontain or siler mountains is a plant belonging to the Apiaceae family. It is a perennial plant measuring 40 to 130 cm in height with an imposing umbel during flowering (July-August). This plant is found on rock gardens and dry grasslands in semi-mountainous areas of southern Europe at altitudes between 400 m and 2000 m. We can particularly find this plant in France, especially in the Jura, the Alps, the Cevennes, the Corbières and the Pyrenees and more particularly in the Vercors, Gapençais and Briançonnais. According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. Modes of obtaining essential oils The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.

The training with water vapor corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance poorly miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydrosol "or" floral distilled water ". Dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production. Preferably, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention is prepared by the method of steam distillation.

Physico-chemical characteristics Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water. Plant Raw Materials An essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention may be prepared from any plant material derived from at least one Laserpitium suer L. grown in vivo or derived from in vitro culture. By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type that is to say in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse or above ground. By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo.

The essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. used in the present invention can be obtained from any plant material derived from this whole plant or from any part of this plant such as for example the leaves, stems, roots, plants flowers, petals, seeds, umbels, fruits, and buds, which are at various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh form). Preferably, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention is obtained from the grafted leaves and / or umbels and / or umbels and / or seeds of the fruits of Laserpitium suer L., more preferably from the leaves and / or umbels, and even more preferably from grained umbels.

According to a preferred embodiment, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention is obtained from grained umbels and / or umbels, and more preferably from grained umbels. According to a preferred embodiment, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention is obtained from the leaves.

Advantageously, the umbels or the seeds may be pre-dried and crushed. An essential oil according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above. As stated above, preferably, an essential oil according to the invention is obtained according to the conventional technique of steam distillation. Advantageously, an essential oil according to the invention is obtained from the umbels of the fruits of Laserpitium suer L., by hydro-distillation or from sheets by steam distillation on a glass apparatus, distiller (apparatus of the type Clevenger 4 liters), such as that defined in the European Pharmacopoeia for the determination of the essential oil of a plant material. Preferably, the essential oil according to the invention is prepared from the grained umbels of Laserpitium suer L., by hydro-distillation. According to another preferred embodiment, an essential oil according to the invention is obtained from the sheets, preferably by means of a process by steam distillation.

The chemical composition of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. in accordance with the invention thus obtained can be analyzed by standard techniques known to those skilled in the art such as gas chromatographic analysis GPC, chromatographic analysis. with flame ionization detection named GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis which consists of the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph. Advantageously, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. contains mainly limonene, perillaldehyde and chamazulene. These three compounds are well known.

Limonene, of the empirical formula C 10 H 16, is a chiral terpenic hydrocarbon. At room temperature, it is a colorless liquid with a fresh odor and characteristic of citrus. Limonene is generally present in the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. in a content ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

Perillaldehyde or perilla aldehyde, of empirical formula C101-1140, is a monoterpene comprising an aldehyde function. Perillaldehyde is generally present in the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. in a content ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

Chamazulene is a blue sesquiterpene hydrocarbon. Chamazulene is generally present in the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. in a content of less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. An essential oil according to the invention can be used as such, that is to say alone, or can be introduced into a cosmetic composition. According to a first embodiment, the essential oil is obtained from the umbels, and even more preferably from the grained umbels. According to this first embodiment, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises an amount of limonene ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, an amount of perillaldehyde ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a quantity of chamazulene less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. According to a second embodiment, the essential oil is obtained from the leaves.

According to this second embodiment, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, and better still at least 65% by weight of monoterpenes chosen from limonene, myrcene, sabinene, gamma terpinene, para-cymene and alpha pinene and at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight of sesquiterpenes selected from Chamazulene, Germacrene D and trans beta caryophyllene. COMPOSITION The composition that is suitable for use in the invention is intended for cosmetic application. According to the present invention, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. may be used in an amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect, that is to say in an amount sufficient to depigment, brighten and / or whiten the keratin materials , in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body and / or to prevent, reduce and / or treat an alteration of the skin tone or the hue of the semi-mucous membranes, in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or to revive the radiance of the complexion. The essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. suitable for the invention acts as a depigmenting agent on the constitutive pigmentation of the skin. In other words, the essential oil of Laser siler acts directly on the synthesis of melanin. Its depigmenting property is to be distinguished from the anti-pigmenting property of certain molecules The anti-pigmenting molecules allow in particular to fight against hyperpigmentations induced by oxidative stress that may come from exposure to the sun or pollution or smoke. An essential oil that is suitable for the invention may also make it possible to depigment and / or brighten hairs, eyelashes, hair, as well as lips and / or nails. Preferably, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. is used in a cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight, most preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight. , 01% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It can be administered especially topically or orally.

As indicated above, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the present invention contains mainly limonene, perillaldehyde and chamazulene. Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition that is suitable for the invention comprises an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprising an amount of limonene ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, an amount of perillaldehyde ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a quantity chamazulene less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. According to another embodiment, an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, and better still at least 65% by weight of monoterpenes chosen from limonene. , myrcene, sabinene, gamma terpinene, para-cymene and alpha pinene and at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight of sesquiterpenes selected from Chamazulene, Germacrene D and Caryophyllene beta trans . Preferably, an essential oil according to the invention, when it is present within a composition, can be formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyes and the hair, or any other cutaneous zone of the body. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which is perfectly compatible with the route of administration considered.

When the composition is to be administered topically, such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. Advantageously, a composition suitable for the invention comprising an essential oil of Laserpitium sweat according to the invention is intended for topical administration. A composition that is suitable for the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetics field. It may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , a gelled oil or not, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type ionic, or in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick. It can be of solid consistency, pasty, or liquid more or less fluid. Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended topical application and administration. Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes, in particular as described below, the pigments, the fillers, the surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents, odor absorbers, UV filters, perfumes, mattifying agents, and abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents. and their mixtures. A composition suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient. By the term "additional active" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent for the activate, a biological activity which can be in particular: - a depigmenting activity, and / or - a photoprotective activity, and / or - a stimulating activity of the barrier function, and / or - a moisturizing or moisturizing activity, and / or - desquamating activity, and / or - a soothing or anti-irritant activity, and / or - an exfoliating activity, and / or - a stimulating activity for the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes, and / or - an activity promoting the maturation of the horny envelope.

The additional active ingredient used in a composition suitable for the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, a composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 35 to 75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously have a firm, compact feel on setting. It can be thick on application and then transform, melt and release freshness. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the essential oil according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition and that the properties of the resulting compositions are compatible with the preferred route of administration. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise at least one fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. As examples of oils that may be used in a composition that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of acids fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils , macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel , jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RiCOOR 2 and RiOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid bearing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate. ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octy-2-dodecyl stearate, octy-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil, natural or synthetic essential oils, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the like; their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at a temperature of mbiante, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name KESTE R WAX K82H "by the company KO S TER KEUNEN. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The compositions that are suitable for the invention may comprise a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050e" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M and perfluoromorpholine derivatives , such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. The amount of oily phase present in the compositions that are suitable for the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W). ), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or H / E / H). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. A composition of this type may be in the form of a facial and / or body care product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a potted cream or a fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle.

The emulsions suitable for the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. Advantageously, the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also comprise at least one silicone elastomer, such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. A composition that is suitable for the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. % in weight.

These fillers can be mineral or organic of all shapes, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloride. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate; , magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. In the case of oral administration, the composition may be in the form of tablets, capsules, dragees, syrups, suspensions, solutions, powders, granules, emulsions, suspensions of microspheres or nanospheres or lipid or polymeric vesicles for controlled release. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a food supplement. A composition that is suitable for the invention may be manufactured by any known method generally used in the cosmetics field. The cosmetic treatment process of the invention is advantageously carried out by administering, topically, a composition comprising an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention. The topical administration consists of the external application on the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the technique of usual use of these compositions. The non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention is characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the leaves, umbels, grained umbels and / or fruit seeds of Laserpitium sweat L. According to a first embodiment of realization the essential oil is obtained from the umbels, and even more preferably from the grained umbels. According to this first particular embodiment, said process is characterized in that said essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises an amount of limonene ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 50 to 70% by weight relative to total weight of said essential oil, an amount of perillaldehyde ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a quantity of chamazulene less than or equal to 10 %, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. According to a second embodiment, the essential oil is obtained from the leaves.

According to this second embodiment, the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, and better still at least 65% by weight of monoterpenes chosen from limonene, myrcene, sabinene, gamma terpinene, para-cymene and alpha pinene and at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight of sesquiterpenes selected from Chamazulene, Germacrene D and trans beta caryophyllene. By way of illustration, the cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out by topical application, for example daily, of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention, which may be, for example, formulated in the form of creams. , gels, serums, lotions, emulsions, cleansing milks or after-sun compositions. The method according to the invention may comprise a single application. According to another embodiment, the application is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily for a day or more and generally for an extended period of at least 4 or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods if applicable. interruption. In addition, treatment combinations with possibly oral or topical forms may be envisaged in order to supplement or enhance the activity of the essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. as defined by the invention.

Thus, one could imagine topical treatment with a composition containing an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L according to the invention, associated with an oral or topical composition optionally containing another essential oil. The ingredients are mixed prior to shaping, in order and under conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, it will be possible to add, in a composition that is suitable for the invention, other agents intended to embellish the appearance and / or texture of the skin. 30 Description of the Figure FIG. 1: Graph illustrating the inhibitory activity on the synthesis of melanin of the essential oil of laser siler suitable for the invention on co-cultures of human normal keratinocyte melanocytes.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from .." must be understood as included terms unless otherwise specified. The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1 Obtaining an essential oil according to the invention 0.1 kg of freshly harvested grain bunches of Laserpitium suer L. fruits are distilled, dried and flattened. This distillation is carried out for 180 minutes according to the technique of steam distillation (or hydrodistillation) in a 4 liter Clevenger-type apparatus, namely of the same principle as that detailed in the European Pharmacopoeia (PH Eur. 4th Ed 2.8.12). 8 grams of an essential oil are thus obtained according to the invention. The chemical analysis of the composition of the essential oil thus obtained is carried out by GC gas phase chromatographic analysis. The results indicate that an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises as main compounds, limonene (68.95%), perillaldehyde (23.79%) and chamazulene (1.49%). Example 2: Obtaining an essential oil according to the invention 0.3 kg of freshly harvested Laserpitium siler L. leaves are distilled "fresh" without pretreatment. This distillation is carried out for 180 minutes according to the technique of steam distillation in a 4 liter Clevenger type apparatus, namely of the same principle as that detailed in the European Pharmacopoeia (PH Eur Eur 4th Ed 2.8. 12). 0.7 grams of an essential oil are thus obtained according to the invention. The chemical analysis of the composition of the essential oil thus obtained is carried out by GC gas phase chromatographic analysis. The results indicate that an essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. according to the invention comprises, as main compounds, limonene (29.62%), myrcene (4.15%) and sabinene (19.96%). ), gamma terpinene (2.12%), para-cymene (0.77%), alpha pinene (12.17%), Germacrene D (10.15%) and Chamazulene (5.29%). ) and trans beta caryophyllene (2.59%). EXAMPLE 3 Demonstration of the activity on melanogenesis according to Example 1 Protocol Unless otherwise specified, the percentages indicated in this text are percentages by weight. A biological test has highlighted the depigmenting activity of the essential oil of Laserpitium sweat l ..

The modulating effect on the melanogenesis of the essential oil was measured according to the method described in FR-A-2734825, as well as in the article by R. Schmidt, P. Krien and M. Régnier, Anal. Bichem., 235 (2), 113-18,1996. This test is performed on coculture of keratinocytes and melanocytes. For each essential oil tested, the inhibitory activity on the synthesis of melanin, by estimating the ratio of the incorporation of thiouracil to the incorporation of leucine, relative to 100% of the control (the control corresponds to the test carried out without the Laserpitium siler L. essential oil to be tested) was determined. The values of 1050 (concentration for which 50% of the synthesis of melanin is inhibited) were determined. To evaluate the synthesis rate of melanin, the keratinocyte and melanocyte cells are pre-placed in a culture medium comprising 4C thiouracil, a melanin precursor. The medium is changed every day. The cells are then lysed using a solution comprising proteinase K® sold by Boehringer. The lysate thus obtained is then filtered on DEAE cellulosic membrane filters (the anion exchanger of the filters corresponds to resins containing diethylaminoethyl groups). 18 hours before the assay, 3H leucine is added to the culture medium to evaluate protein synthesis. Before filtration of the lysate obtained, a sample is taken in order to evaluate the amount of protein synthesized based on the incorporation of 3H leucine. The radioactivity of the filters is then counted in a liquid scintillation counter.

Results Synthesis of melanin It can be seen from FIG. 1 that the plateau is reached at about -40% from a concentration of 0.05% in the essential oil of Laser suer L. This indicates that the essential oil of Laser Siler is 40% more depigmenting than the control (named placebo) devoid of essential oil of Laser siler for a concentration of 0.05%. This test also demonstrates that the efficiency plateau in terms of depigmenting activity is achieved with a composition comprising the essential oil of Laser suer L. from the concentration of 0.05% by weight in the co-culture model.

The inhibitory activity test on melanin synthesis was also performed with lucinol (2-butyl benzene 1,3-diol) which is a known depigmenting compound. The results obtained for the essential oil of Laser suer L. suitable for the invention and for lucinol are summarized in table 1 which follows. Table 1 Compounds tested IC50 (%) Laserpitium suer L. according to Example 1 0 , 05% LUCINOL 0.00003% Concerning the IC50 for lucinol (positive reference), a value of 1.8 [IM corresponds to a value of approximately 0.3 mg / L, ie 0.00003%. EXAMPLE 4 Compositions CREAM OF CARE, Oil-in-water emulsion Ingredients Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%) WATER QSP 100 GLYCERIN 13 XANTHANE GUM 0.7 Rhodicare CFT RHODIA GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2 ALCOHOL CETEARYLIC 1 OIL SUNFLOWER 13 SILICA 5 ETHANOL 10 ESSENTIAL OIL LASERPITIUM 0.3 SILER L. obtained according to Example 1 PRESERVATIVES 1 PH ADJUSTER QSP Applied on the skin of the face and body, this cream makes it possible to lighten the skin.15 FACE CREAM Ingredients Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%) Potassium sorbate powder 0.1 SODIUM PHYTATE (Sodium phytate) 0.1 DERMOFEEL PA-3 by DR STRAETMANS) RHODICARE CFT xanthan gum RHODIA 0, Natural Blend of Soy Lecithin, Fatty Alcohols (C1216), Vegetable Palmitic Acid BIOPHILIC H by LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS (UNIPEX) Essential Oil of Laser Suer L. According to Example 1 0.4 Sunflower Oil 15 Jojoba Oil 5 Citric Ester of glycerol stearate 2 AXOL C62 PELLETS from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta natural tocopherols 0.15 (14/1/62/23) in sunflower oil (90/10) COVI-OX T 90 EU de Cognis / BASF Benzyl alcohol (and) dehydroacetic acid (and) water 08 GEOGARD® 221 from LONZA AG L-arginine 0.01 Water QSP 100 Applied on the face, this cream improves the homogeneity of the complexion and to revive the radiance of the complexion.

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of the essential oil of Laserpitium Siler L., as an active ingredient for depigmenting, lightening and / or whitening keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body, and / or for preventing, reducing and / or or treat an alteration of skin tone or tint of semi-mucous membranes. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 for treating at least one benign unaesthetic pigmentary disorder selected from hyperpigmentations, actinic lentigo, lentigines, ephelides, chloasma, melasmas, idiopathic melasmas occurring during pregnancy or a pregnancy. oestro-progestative contraception, acne pigment sequelae, post-inflammatory pigmentation, meadow dermatitis, plant poison ivy pigmentation, benign facial dyschromias. 3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 for homogenizing the complexion and / or reviving the radiance of the complexion. 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. is used in a cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight, very preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition . 5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the leaves and / or umbels and / or grained parasols and / or fruit seeds of Laserpitium sweat L .. 6. Cosmetic use according to claim 5, characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the umbels. 7. Cosmetic use according to claim 5 or claim 6, characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the grained umbels. 8. Cosmetic use according to claim 5, characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the leaves, preferably by means of a process by steam distillation. 9. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises a quantity of limonene ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, an amount of perillaldehyde ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a lower amount of chamazulene or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. 10. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and 8, characterized in that said essential oil of Laserpitium suer L. comprises at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, and better at least 65% by weight of monoterpenes selected from limonene, myrcene, sabinene, gamma terpinene, para-cymene and alpha pinene and at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight of sesquiterpenes selected from the group consisting of Chamazulene, Germacrene D and Caryophyllene beta trans. 11. Process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of depigmentation, lightening and / or bleaching of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin of the face and / or the body, and / or for the prevention, reduction and / or treatment of an alteration of the skin tone or the shade of the semi-mucous membranes comprising at least one step of applying to the skin of the face and / or the body at least one composition comprising of the essential oil of Laserpitium Suer L. 12. The method of claim 11, characterized in that said essential oil is as defined in one of claims 4 to 10.