FR3064471A1 - BIPHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising a visually distinct and superimposed aqueous phase and an oily phase, an amphoteric surfactant and a fatty acid salt. It also relates to a non-aerosol device comprising a bottle equipped with a mechanical pumping system and comprising said composition and a dispensing system for delivering the composition in the form of foam. Application to the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials by applying the composition in the form of a mousse to keratin materials.

Description

© Publication no .: 3,064,471 (to be used only for reproduction orders)

©) National registration number: 17 52755 ® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY

COURBEVOIE © Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 41 (2017.01), A 61 Q 19/10

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

©) Date of filing: 03.31.17. ©) Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. ©) Priority: @ Inventor (s): DOBRIL SUZY. ©) Date of public availability of the request: 05.10.18 Bulletin 18/40. ©) List of documents cited in the preliminary search report: See the end of this booklet (© References to other related national documents: ©) Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. ©) Extension request (s): ©) Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.

TWO-PHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS.

FR 3 064 471 - A1 tüç) The invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are visually distinct and superimposed, an amphoteric surfactant and a fatty acid salt.

It also relates to a non-aerosol device comprising a bottle equipped with a mechanical pumping system and comprising said composition and a distribution system making it possible to deliver the composition in the form of foam.

Application to the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials by applying the composition in the form of a foam to keratin materials.

The subject of the present invention is a two-phase water-oil composition containing an amphoteric surfactant and a fatty acid salt, as well as a process for treating keratin materials using such a composition in the form of a foam. The invention also relates to the device comprising said composition and a dispenser for dispensing the composition in foam form.

Cosmetic cleaning compositions are commonly used to clean keratinous materials, in particular the skin, in particular when they are covered with makeup products such as foundation.

These cosmetic compositions intended for cleaning keratin materials must have application qualities such as a slippery effect and a quality and quantity of foam, while respecting these keratin materials which can be relatively sensitive (eyes, mucous membranes, skin). In addition, they must have an appropriate viscosity to guarantee efficient, simple and pleasant use by the consumer.

Consumers are also increasingly looking for cosmetic products with an attractive aesthetic appearance.

The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition used in the form of foam, in particular non-aerosol foam, having satisfactory properties for cleaning keratin materials, in particular the skin, as well as an attractive visual effect for the user. .

The inventor has discovered that such a composition can be obtained by producing a two-phase oil-water composition comprising an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid salts, and by distributing the two-phase composition with a foam dispenser as described below.

The two-phase composition at rest, especially after 24 hours, has a clear interface and the aqueous phase is transparent with no apparent deposit. When the user shakes the composition at the time of use, the composition forms an emulsion and becomes homogeneous.

The two-phase composition packaged in a device provided with a foam dispenser, in particular a self-foaming pump, makes it possible to obtain a good quality foam: the foam is dense, tight, holds well in particular after 10 minutes and after 20 minutes after dispensing by the self-foaming pump. It can thus after its distribution in the palm of the hand be easily spread over the surface of the hand without losing its consistency and then be applied to a large surface of the face to be cleaned. After applying the composition in the form of a foam to the skin and rinsing with water, the skin is clean and does not have a feeling of tightness.

After use, the composition at rest exhibits a rapid phase shift with a clear separation of the two phases.

This result is obtained by using a fatty acid salt as described above while other anionic surfactants such as laureth sulfate and lauroyl sarcosinate sodium are not suitable as shown in the examples described below.

Application US 2003/003069 describes a two-phase composition whose upper phase contains a foaming surfactant solution and whose lower phase contains a high density aromatic ester.

More specifically, the invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are visually distinct and superimposed, an amphoteric surfactant, a fatty acid salt.

The subject of the invention is also a device for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising:

- an aqueous composition as described above; and

- a foam dispenser allowing the distribution of said composition in the form of a non-aerosol foam.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition as described above in the form of non-aerosol foam. The process can be a cosmetic process for caring for or cleaning keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one visually distinct aqueous phase and oily phase. These two phases are distinct, that is to say that they are visible one above the other at rest and separated by a single interface. The two phases may or may not be colored.

The duration of the phase shift can range from 3 to 30 minutes, better from 5 to 25 minutes and preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.

In particular, the two-phase composition according to the invention has, after 24 hours' rest, a clear interface. Advantageously, the aqueous phase constitutes the lower phase of the composition.

The composition according to the invention being intended for topical application, it advantageously contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and scalp.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The amphoteric surfactant is chosen from amphoteric surfactants well known to those skilled in the art (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants).

According to one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from compounds of aliphatic secondary or tertiary, optionally quaternized, comprising a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or a mixture of such hydrocarbon chains , and comprising at least one anionic group, such as for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate group.

The amphoteric surfactant can be chosen from N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ ) sulfobetaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) betaines , N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ ) sultaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) hydroxysultaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) hydroxysultaines, N-alkyl ( C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphoacetates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodiacetates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphopropionates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodipropionates, N- (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl amphohydroxypropylsulfonates, diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, and mixtures thereof.

These surfactants are in particular referenced in the catalog of the organization The Personnal Care Product Council (url link http://www.personalcarecouncil.org).

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl group can be chosen from octyl (or caprylyl), decyl (or capryl), lauryl, myristyle, palmityl, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines, mention may in particular be made of coco-betaine, such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, decyl betaine (or decyl dimethyl glycine), lauryl betaine (or lauryl dimethyl glycine) such as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, myristyle betaine (or myristyl dimethyl glycine), cetylbetaine (or cetyl dimethyl glycine), stearyl betaine (or stearyl dimethyl glycine).

In known manner, the coconut group designates the alkyl group deriving from coconut oil. It mainly comprises a mixture of lauryl and myristyle group.

Advantageously, the N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines are coco-betaine.

Among the N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) betaines, mention may, for example, be made of cocamidopropyl betaine (or coamidopropyl dimethyl glycine), for example sold under the name DEHYTON® PK45 by the company BASF, cocoamidoethyl betaine, for example marketed under the name SILSOFT® SILK PM F by the company Momentive Performance Materials, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, capryl / capryl betaine palmitamidopropyl betaine.

Advantageously, the N-alkyl (C ₈ -C22) amidoalkyl (Ci-C ₆ ) betaines are chosen from N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) amidopropyl betaines, such as those mentioned above, and preferably are cocamidopropyl betaine .

Like the N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) sulfobetaines, mention may be made of lauryl sulfobetaine.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) sultaines, mention may be made of capryl sultaine, lauryl sultaine, myristyl sultaine, coco-sultaine.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) hydroxysultaines, mention may be made of capryl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine (for example BETADET® S-20 from Kao), myristyl hydroxysultaine, coco hydroxysultaine, cetyl hydroxysultaine.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C22) amidoalkyl (Ci-C ₆ ) hydroxysultaines, mention may be made of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (such as that sold under the name AMONYL 675 SB by the company Seppic or BETADET® SHR from Kao, lauramidopropyl hydroxysultaine, myristamidopropyl hydroxysultaine.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) amphoacetates, there may be mentioned for example:

N’-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate);

N’-caproyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium caproamphoacetate);

N’-capryloyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium capryloamphoacetate);

N’-isostearoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium isostearoamphoacetate);

N-lauroyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium lauroamphoacetate);

N’-myristoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium myristoamphoacetate);

N’-palmitoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium palmamphoacetate);

N’-stearoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium stearoamphoacetate).

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂ 2) amphodiacetates, there may be mentioned for example:

- N’-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie;

- N’-caproyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium coproamphodiacetate);

- N’-capryloyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: disodium copryloamphodiacetate);

- N’-isostearoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: disodium isostearoamphodiacetate);

- N’-lauroyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: disodium lauroamphodiacetate);

- N’-stearoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: disodium stearoamphodiacetate)

Advantageously, the N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodiacetates are disodium cocamphodiacetate.

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphopropionates, there may be mentioned for example:

N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphopropionate) such as that sold under the name REWOTERIC AM KSF 40 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (code 52683); N’-caproyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium caproamphopropionate);

N’-capryloyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium capryloamphopropionate);

N’-isostearoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium isostearoamphopropionate);

N’-lauroyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium lauroamphopropionate);

N’-stearoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine sodium (CTFA name: sodium stearoamphopropionate).

As N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodipropionates, there may be mentioned:

cocoamphodipropionic acid lauroamphodipropionic acid diethanolamine cocoamphodipropionate N'-cocoyl-N-carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodipropionate) such as that sold under the name MACKAM 2CSF 40 ;

disodium N-caproyl-N-carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium caproamphodipropionate);

disodium capryloyl-N-carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium capryloamphodipropionate);

disodium isostearoyl-N-carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium isostearoamphodipropionate);

disodium N-lauroyl-N-carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium lauroamphodipropionate).

As N- (alkyl C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphohydroxypropylsulfonates, mention may be made of sodium caproamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium capryloamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, such as that sold under the name MIRANOL CS CONCENTREHYRUS Sodium hydroxypropyl sulfonyl, the hydroxypropylsulfonate

N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphoacetates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodiacetates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphopropionates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodipropionates, N - (C ₈ C ₂₂ alkyl) amphohydroxypropylsulfonates described above can be in free acid form or in the form of salts, in particular alkaline salts (such as sodium, potassium) or alkaline earth salts (calcium, magnesium), and preferably in the form of sodium.

It is also possible to use monodiethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide sodium, such as that sold under the name Chimexane H B by the company Chimex.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant can be chosen from N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (C6-C ₈ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant is an N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ ) betaine, and preferably cocobetaine.

The amphoteric surfactant can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention also contains a fatty acid salt.

The fatty acid salt is advantageously a monocarboxylic acid salt comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

It is more particularly a fatty acid salt chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic acids, or their mixtures such as coconut salts.

The fatty acid salt can be chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or amine salts. The salt can be chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine salts.

As examples of fatty acid salts, there may be mentioned:

sodium or potassium caprate;

sodium or potassium caprylate;

sodium or potassium or magnesium or calcium or ammonium or triethanolamine laurate;

sodium or potassium or magnesium or calcium myristate or diethanolamine or triethanolamine or triisopropanolamine; sodium or potassium or magnesium or triethanolamine palmitate; sodium or potassium or magnesium or triethanolamine cocoate; sodium or potassium or magnesium or ammonium stearate or diethanolamine or triethanolamine;

sodium or potassium or ammonium oleate;

sodium peanutate;

behenate sodium or potassium or calcium.

Advantageously, a salt of monocarboxylic acid having 12 to 16 carbon atoms or of their mixture, such as those described above, is used. In particular, a salt of a mixture of lauric acid and myristic acid can be used. Preferably, a coconut salt is used.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a fatty acid salt chosen from potassium myristate, potassium laurate, sodium laurate, sodium cocoate, potassium cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid salt may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the fatty acid salt and the amphoteric surfactant are present in the composition according to a weight ratio of fatty acid salts / amphoteric surfactant which can range from 1.5 to 2.5, and preferably ranging from 1.7 to 2 , 3, and preferably ranging from 1.8 to 2.2.

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 35% to 80%, preferably from 40% to 70%, and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and all of the ingredients of the composition present in water, that is to say the ingredients which are soluble or miscible with water at a temperature of 25 ° C.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 76%, preferably from 15% to 66%, and preferably from 15% to 56% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise a polyol miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C) especially chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol.

The water-miscible polyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition, after a standing time of 24 hours, is transparent.

By transparent phase is meant a phase which has a turbidity less than or equal to 300 NTU. The transparency of a composition can be measured by its turbidity, and the NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement can be made for example with a model 2100P turbidimeter from the company HACH Compagny, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (20 ° C to 25 ° C). The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention has a turbidity generally ranging from 2 to 300 NTU, and preferably from 5 to 200 NTU.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention are present in a weight ratio aqueous phase / oily phase ranging from 35/65 to 80/20, preferably from 40/60 to 70/30 , and better from 40/60 to 60/40.

Advantageously, the oily phase is present in a content ranging from 20 to 65% by weight, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, and preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oils, these being able to be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom; it can contain ester, ether, amine, amide groups.

As hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower and corn oils, soy, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot almond, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, l jojoba oil, shea butter oil, limnanthes oil, argan oil;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives, such as petrolatum oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil; branched alkanes or iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C ₈ -Cie, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, such as for example the isoparaffins sold under the trade names Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade names Permethyl by the company Presperse; and their mixtures;

- linear alkanes, in particular of plant origin, preferably comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol.

By silicone oil or silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The silicone oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

By "volatile" is meant a compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 '' ³ to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

As volatile silicone oils, mention may, for example, be made of cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca-methylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl-trisiloxane, hexamethyl-disiloxane, octamethyl-trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is chosen from cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

As oils of non-volatile silicone, silicone oils that may be mentioned polymethylsiloxane including PDMS, and polymethylsiloxane phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2phényléthyltriméthyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil or oils are chosen from hydrocarbon oils. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil or oils are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate and isononyl isononanoate, ethers of fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, mineral oils such as l petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids. Preferably, the oil or oils are chosen from esters of fatty acids such as isononyl isononanoate, vegetable oils, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids.

Advantageously, the oily phase is above the aqueous phase when the composition according to the invention is at rest (for example after storage for 1 hour at 25 ° C).

The oily phase can also comprise any liposoluble compound compatible with an oily phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, coloring matters, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives which will be in one or the other phase according to their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example perfumes, preservatives, dyes, humectants , UV filters (or sun filters), pH adjusters, gelling agents, and their mixtures.

The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising:

a step of preparing the aqueous phase by mixing the ingredients constituting the aqueous phase (such as water, surfactants, glycols);

a step of preparing the oily phase by mixing the constituents of the oily phase;

then a step of mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, said steps being able to be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20 to 80 ° C.

The composition according to the invention is used in the form of a foam, in particular a non-aerosol foam, during its topical application to keratin materials, in particular of human beings.

The composition in the form of a foam can in particular be used for caring for, cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin and / or the lips, and also as a composition for caring for or cleaning the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition in the form of foam is used for the care or cleaning of the skin of the body and / or of the face.

The foam composition according to the invention is formed from a mixture of air with the two-phase composition described above previously stirred.

The two-phase composition is advantageously a liquid composition. Liquid is understood to mean a composition having a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, at 25 ° C., 1 atm. and at a shear rate of 1 s' ¹ .

The composition, before its distribution in the form of foam, is a two-phase composition when it is at rest, in particular after a standing time of 24 hours at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition can be in the form of a temporary foam produced just before its use on keratin materials. The aqueous composition, before its distribution, can be packaged in a foam dispenser, or foam pump, non-aerosol, allowing the distribution of said composition in the form of non-aerosol foam.

The composition can be dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head, the passage of the composition in the dispensing head transforming it into foam at the latest at the outlet orifice of said head.

The composition can also be found in a foam dispenser of the pump-bottle type. This type of dispenser comprises, in addition to a container and a possible push button, a dispensing head for delivering the composition, a pump and a dip tube for transferring the composition from the container into the head for delivering the product. The foam is formed by forcing the composition to pass through a material comprising a porous substance such as a sintered material, a plastic or metal filter grid, or similar structures.

Such dispensers are well known to those skilled in the art and are described in particular in patents US3709437, US3937364, US4022351, US4147306, US4184615, US4598862, US4615467, US5364031, W02007 / 091882.

The composition can be packaged in a container closed by a closure member. The closing member can be a pump dispensing mechanism, in particular the dispensing head. This dispensing head preferably comprises a mechanical pump retained in a hoop intended for mounting by snap-fitting or screwing on the neck of the container containing the mixture. The pump preferably comprises a pump body connected to a dip tube to allow distribution of the entire mixture. The pump preferably also includes a push button for actuation of the pump body, such that on each actuation, a dose of composition is sucked inside the dip tube and ejected in the form of foam at the orifice of distribution of the head.

The containers are preferably made of a thermoplastic material, and obtained by blow-molding or blow-molding processes. The pump is for example the standard model F2-L9 or the model WRT4, offered by the company REXAM.

Preferably, the foam dispenser may comprise or be constituted, in addition to a container, a dip tube, a pump and a possible push button. When returning the product, a composition can be generated in the form of a foam, by incorporating air into the advantageously liquid aqueous composition.

The composition according to the invention therefore has the application to keratin materials in the form of a foam, in particular a non-aerosol, capable of being generated using a distributor which introduces air into an aqueous composition, generally liquid, when returning the product.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The contents of the ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight.

Comparative examples 1 to 12:

The following 8 two-phase compositions according to the invention (examples 1 to 8) and 4 compositions outside the invention (examples A to D) were prepared (contents by weight percentage) and each composition was introduced into a bottle-type packaging, equipped with a REXAM F2-L9 pump. The device allows by pumping to obtain a foam by shaking the product beforehand 10 times before its distribution by the pump.

The appearance of the foam obtained was observed after 10 minutes and 20 minutes. The conditioned product was then left to stand for 24 hours and observed the appearance of the two-phase composition and the quality of the demixing.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Potassium cocoate 38% in solution watery (MACKADET® 40-K from RHODIA) 16 either 6.1% MA 16 16 16 30% coco-betaine aqueous solution (DEHYTON®AB 30 from BASF) 10 either 3% MA 10 or 3% MA 10 or 3% MY 10 or 3% MY Dimethicone (viscosity: 10 est) (BELSIL DM 10 from 26

WACKER) Dimethicone (viscosity: 350 est) (BELSIL DM 350 from WACKER) 2 Paraffin oil - 28 - Jojoba oil - - 28 Capric / caprilic triglycerides (TRIGLYCERIDES C8C10 70/30 - DUB MCT 7030 from Stea- Dubois rinse) 28 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 dye qs qs qs qs Butylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Potassium cocoate 38% in solution watery (MACKADET® 40-K from RHODIA) 16 16 16 16 cocoyl amidopropyl be- taine in solution aqueous at 38% by weight (DEHYTON® PK45 from BASF) 7.90 or 3% MA disodium cocoamphodi ace tate at 31.5% in water (MIRANOL C2M CONC NP from Rhodia) 9.50 or 3% MY 30% coco-betaine aqueous solution (DEHYTON® AB 30 from BASF) 10 10 10 Dimethicone (viscosi- 26 - -

tee: 10 is) (BELSIL DM 10 from WACKER) Dimethicone (viscosity: 350 est) (BACKIL DM 350 from WACKER) 2 squalane - - 28 Capric / caprilic triglycerides (TRIGLYCERIDES C8C10 70/30 - DUB MCT 7030 from Stea- Dubois rinse) 28 2- palmitate ethylhexyl 28 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 dye qs qs qs qs Butylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

The 8 compositions according to the purpose make it possible to obtain a good quality foam, which remains well after 10 minutes and after 20 minutes following the distribution by the self-foaming pump. The foam can thus be easily spread over the hands after having deposited an adequate amount in the palm of the hand which then makes it possible to apply the foam to a large surface of the face to be cleaned. After application and rinsing with water, the skin is clean and has no feeling of tightness.

After use, the conditioned product left to stand quickly demixes: after 24 hours of rest, the two-phase composition has a clear interface and the aqueous phase remains transparent without apparent deposit.

Example A Example B Example C Example D Lauryl ether sodium sulfate (2 EO) in aqueous solution at 70% MA 8.7 or 6.1% MA mixture of lauryl sul- sodium foacetate and disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (50/50) in water at 25% (STEPAN-MILD LSB from STEPAN) 24.4 or 6.1% MY

disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate 96% by weight in water (REWOPOL® SB F 12 P from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 6.35 or 6.1% MA lauroyl sarcosinate sodium solution aqueous at 30% by weight (ORAMIX L 30 from Seppic) 20.3 or 6.1% MA 30% coco-betaine in aqueous solution (DEHYTON®AB 30 from BASF) 10 10 10 10 Dimethicone (viscosity: 10 is) (BELSIL DM 10 from WACKER) 26 26 26 26 Dimethicone (viscosity: 350 est) (BACKIL DM 350 from WACKER) 2 2 2 2 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 dye qs qs qs qs Butylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Evaluation Poor quality of foam distributed Demixing not correct after 24h White deposit at the bottom of the phase watery Demixing not correct after 24 h

The results obtained show that the compositions 1 to 8 according to the invention conform to the properties expected on the quality of the foam dispensed and on the demixing of the two-phase product after 24 hours at rest.

The compositions A to D outside the invention do not conform to the expected priorities: Composition A does not give a good quality foam which is too airy and is not homogeneous during its distribution. It cannot be spread correctly on the face.

The compositions B and D do not exhibit a good demixing after 24 hours rest: the interface of the two-phase is not clear.

Composition C has, after standing for 24 hours, a white deposit in the aqueous phase which is therefore not homogeneous.

Claims (17)

1. Composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are visually distinct and superimposed, an amphoteric surfactant and a fatty acid salt. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from compounds of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, comprising an aliphatic chain, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one anionic carboxylate or sulfonate group. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ ) sulfobetaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C ₆ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ ) sultaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) hydroxysultaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) hydroxysultaines amidoalkyl (Ci-C ₆ ), N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphoacetates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodiacetates, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphopropionates, N -alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphodipropionates, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphohydroxypropylsulfonates, diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, and mixtures thereof. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ C ₂₂ amidoalkyl (C ₆ -C ₈₎ ) betaines, N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 2% at 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid salt is a monocarboxylic acid salt comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably a fatty acid salt chosen from caprylic acids , capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, and their mixtures. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid salt is chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or fatty acid amine salts, preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine salts. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid salt is chosen from salts of monocarboxylic acid having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures; preferably chosen from potassium myristate, potassium laurate, sodium laurate, sodium cocoate, cocoate de potas3064471 sium, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid salt is present in a content ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid salt and the amphoteric surfactant are present in the composition according to a weight ratio of fatty acid salts / amphoteric surfactant which can range from 1.5 to 2 , 5, and preferably ranging from 1.7 to 2, 3, and preferably ranging from 1.8 to 2.2. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 25% to 95%, preferably from 30% to 90%, and preferably from 50% to 80% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 10% to 76%, preferably from 15% to 66%, and preferably from 15% to 56% by weight of water, relative the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a polyol miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C) having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol. 14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the water-miscible polyol is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils. 16. A non-aerosol device comprising a bottle equipped with a mechanical pumping system and comprising a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 and a distribution system making it possible to deliver the composition in the form of foam. 17. A method of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition in the form of a foam obtained with the non-aerosol device according to the preceding claim.