FR2990350A1 - Composition useful in skin care process for treating sings consisting of deterioration of e.g. skin glow, comprises plant extract of Gentianaceae family and Rhodiola and sapogenin, or a plant extract containing sapogenin or its ester - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, a plant extract of the genus Rhodiola and a sapogenin, or a plant extract containing a sapogenin, in particular an extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea, or a sapogenin ester, as well as the cosmetic use of this composition for treating at least one sign selected from the group consisting of an alteration of the brightness of the skin, an alteration of the homogeneity of the complexion, of an alteration of the luminosity of the skin, an alteration of the quality of the epidermis, and a sign of fatigue.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a plant extract of the Gentianaceae family, a plant extract. A cosmetic composition comprising a Gentianaceae extract, an extract of Rhodiola and a sapogenin, or a plant extract containing a sapogenin or a sapogenin ester. of the genus Rhodiola and a sapogenin, or a plant extract containing a sapogenin, in particular an extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea, or a sapogenin ester, as well as the cosmetic use of this composition for treating at least one sign selected in the group consisting of an alteration of the radiance of the skin, an alteration of the uniformity of the complexion, an alteration of the luminosity of the skin, an alteration of the quality of the epidermis, and a sign of fatigue. International Patent Application WO2007059441 has described a synergistic plant protection composition comprising at least six plants and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients or carriers, the composition may contain Gentiana, Dioscorea and Rhodiola, but necessarily in combination with at least three other plants. In this patent application, Rhodiola is described as having effects associated with ATP synthesis, while Gentiana and Dioscorea are described as having effects on organ structure and function. The proposed applications of this phytopharmaceutical composition are all of a therapeutic nature. The Applicant has evaluated the effects of a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae (in particular genus Gentiana), a plant extract of the genus Rhodiola and a sapogenin, in the form of an extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea, alone or in combination, on the energetic metabolism of human keratinocytes.

These effects were assessed by measuring the intracellular NAD / NADH ratio in a culture of normal human keratinocytes. NAD / NADH cofactors are involved in energetic catabolic pathways. In particular, NAD is a cofactor used in the Krebs energy cycle to allow the synthesis of ATP, the key energy molecule of cells. More NAD than NADH is required to allow this synthesis of ATP, which results in the fact that the higher the NAD / NADH ratio, the greater the ATP synthesis may be. The Applicant has thus demonstrated that none of the extracts, alone, can modulate positively and significantly the intracellular ratio NAD / NADH in keratinocytes. The Gentiana extract even had a negative effect on this ratio, compared to control.

Surprisingly and remarkably, the combination of Gentiana, Dioscorea and Rhodiola extracts induced a clear and significant increase in the intra-keratinocyte NAD / NADH ratio. The combination of a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, with a sapogenin, especially in the form of an extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea or a sapogenin ester and with an extract of Rhodiola, therefore makes it possible to potentiate, in keratinocytes, the NAD / NADH ratio, a marker of improved energy metabolism and favorable to a greater production of ATP-type energy molecules, a molecule directly usable by the cells to ensure their normal physiological functioning. On the basis of the effects obtained, this synergistic combination of active ingredients thus makes it possible to combat the reduction of the energetic metabolism of the skin and its overall metabolic imbalance (for example by synthesis of structural constituents, cell renewal), found in the case alteration of the physiological optimum functioning of the skin, in particular to fight against the signs of skin aging or photo-aging, or more broadly against signs related to age. These signs can in particular be translated through various visible signs such as a loss of radiance and / or brightness of the skin, and / or a loss of homogeneity of the complexion of the skin.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, a plant extract of the genus Rhodiola and a sapogenin, or a plant extract containing a sapogenin, or a sapogenin ester. The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is preferably an extract rich in polyphenols, as described in the patent application FR2926991. Preferably, it is a plant root extract of the Gentianaceae family. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an extract of a single plant of the family Gentianaceae or extracts of several plants of the family Gentianaceae. The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family may be a plant extract of the genus Gentiana, in particular of the species Gentiana acaulis, Gentiana asclepiadea, Gentiana burseri, Gentiana clusii, Gentiana cruciata, Gentiana lutea, Gentiana nivallis, Gentiana peumonanthe, Gentiana punctata, Gentiana purpurea, Gentiana vema or Gentiana villarsii, or mixtures thereof.

The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family may also be a plant extract of the genus Gentianella, in particular of the species Gentianella amarella, Gentianella campestris, Gentianella dilata or Gentianella germanica, or mixtures thereof. In particular, the plant extract of the family Gentianaceae may be a plant extract of the genus Gentiana and / or a plant extract of the genus Gentianella. Preferably, the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is an extract of Gentiana lutea, an extract of Gentiana punctata or an extract of Gentiana villarsii, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the plant extract of the family Gentianaceae is a plant root extract of the genus Gentiana, in particular a plant root extract of the species Gentiana lutea. More preferably, the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is an extract of Gentiana lutea root in hydroalcoholic solution (2.5% of active ingredient) marketed under the name INFLAN-AT® by the company Technoble.

The plant extract of the genus Rhodiola is preferably an extract of Rhodiola crenulata. It is preferably an extract of plant root of the genus Rhodiola, in particular Rhodiola crenulata. It is preferably the extract Rhodiomax® (extract with 50% active ingredient, titrated to 3% diosgenin) available from BASF Beauty Care Solutions LLC, New York, USA. The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises: a) a sapogenin, preferably a sapogenin selected from the group consisting of diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin, sarsapogenin, tigogenin, yamogenin and yuccagenin, preferably still diosgenin; or b) a plant extract containing a sapogenin, in particular a plant extract containing a sapogenin selected from the group consisting of diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin, sarsapogenin, tigogenin, yamogenin and yuccagenin, more preferably a plant extract containing diosgenin; or c) an ester of a sapogenin, in particular an ester of a sapogenin selected from the group consisting of diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin, sarsapogenin, tigogenin, yamogenin and yuccagenin, more preferably one diosgenin ester.

Sapogenins, plant extracts containing a sapogenin, or sapogenin esters have been described in particular in the patent application EP1352643. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sapogenin and / or at least one plant extract containing a sapogenin and / or at least one sapogenin ester, the sapogenin (s), or the sapogenin (s) ( s) contained in the plant extract and the esterified sapogenin (s) may be identical or different. "Plant extract" means any plant extract containing one or more sapogenins, after treatment intended to hydrolyze saponosides, such as a dioscorea extract, which contains diosgenin, or an agave leaf extract containing hecogenin and tigogenin, or an extract of Liliaceae, in particular of the genus Smilax or Yucca, containing smilagenin and sarsapogenin, such as an extract of sarsaparilla root. The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises in particular a plant extract containing diosgenin, preferably an extract from a plant of the Dioscoraceae family, more preferably of the genus Dioscorea. The plant extract is in particular a tuber extract from a plant of the family Disoscoraceae, preferably a tuber extract from a plant of the genus Dioscorea. The diosgenin can be extracted from the tubers of certain Dioscoreaceae, as indicated previously, by a process comprising successively: the hydrolysis under heat of the glycosides in a mineral acid medium (possibly after fermentation and drying of the tubers); and filtering the insoluble fraction, which is then neutralized, washed and treated with an apolar solvent. Other extraction methods are however usable. Dioscorea-containing plants containing dioscine include Dioscorea composite, Dioscorea deltoides, Dioscorea floribunda, Dioscorea sylvatica, Dioscorea spiculiflora, Dioscorea opposita, Dioscorea mexicana and Dioscorea villosa. The plant extract used according to the invention is preferably a plant extract, in particular a tuber extract, of the species Dioscorea villosa or Dioscorea opposita, or mixtures thereof. Such an extract is in particular available from the company ACTIVE ORGANICS under the trade names Actigen Y® (1% active ingredient extract) and Actiphyte Mexican Wild Yarne. It may alternatively be obtained from the company OSST under the trade name Wild Yam P.E.® or from the company ALBAN MÜLLER under the trade name Dry Extract Wild Yam®. In the context of the present invention, any concentration of a given compound or extract is expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, as defined above, may be present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.002% to 3%, more preferably 0.01%. % to 1.5%. The plant extract of the genus Rhodiola, as defined above, may be present in the composition at a concentration of 0.001% to 10%, preferably 0.01% to 5%, more preferably 0.1%. % to 3%. The sapogenin, the plant extract containing a sapogenin or the sapogenin ester, as defined above, may be present in the composition at a concentration of from 0.00001% to 5%, preferably from 0.0001%. % to 3%, from 0.001% to 1.5%. Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.001% to 10% of plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, b) 0.001% to 10% of extract of plant of the genus Rhodiola, and c) 0.00001% to 5% sapogenin, plant extract containing a sapogenin or sapogenin ester, each of which may be present at one of the preferred concentrations described above. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises: - 0.001% to 10%, of Gentiana lutea root extract, - 0.001% to 10% of Rhodiola crenulata root extract, - 0.00001% to 5% of tubercle extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea, preferably of the species Dioscorea villosa or Dioscorea opposita. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not comprise any other plant extract, or part of a plant, than those listed above. According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at most two plant or plant part extracts other than those listed above, or at most one plant or plant part extract other than those listed above. . The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably further comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. By "cosmetically acceptable carrier" is meant an inert carrier which is compatible with the skin, integuments and / or mucous membranes (particularly the mucous membranes of the oral route when this route is used), which does not induce itching, tingling. , tension or redness, or more generally disorder likely to lead the user to suspend or stop the administration of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may comprise water, organic solvents such as a C1-C8 alcohol, especially ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; a polyol such as glycerine; a glycol such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; polyol ethers, acetone, ethyl acetate. The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 35% to 75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin for topical administration.For topical application to the skin, the composition may be in the form of, in particular, aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the cream or gel type aqueous or anhydrous, or microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type or foams.These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.The cosmetic composition may for example constitute a cream of n and cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the neck, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removal creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), a liquid foundation, a cleansing milk, a protective or care body milk, a sunscreen milk, a lotion, a gel or a mousse for skincare such as cleaning lotions, sunscreen lotions, artificial tanning lotions, bathing compositions, or aftershave gels or lotions. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a cosmetic composition of care, sun protection, toilet, or makeup. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a moisturizing composition or an anti-aging or anti-fatic composition. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more additives, excipients or active agents, usually used in the cosmetics field.

The amount of oily phase present in the composition according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This oily (or fatty) phase may advantageously contain fatty substances such as, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and acid. oleic. It may still contain oils, especially volatile oils. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Non-limiting examples of active ingredients include anti-aging active ingredients, bleaching agents, but also dyes, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, sequestering agents, polyols, and especially glycerin, pH (acids or bases). In particular, the cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent that makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of the skin, in particular the relaxation of the skin or the wrinkles and fine lines, or to improve the radiance skin, homogeneity of complexion, brightness of the skin, or improve the quality of the epidermis, or reduce the signs of fatigue.

By way of example, a composition according to the invention has the following composition (ingredients designated by their INCI name): dimethicone and dimethicone crosslinked polymer / PEG-10/15: 3% PEG-10 dimethicone: 1.5% dimethicone : 3% hydrogenated polyisobutene: 6% Hexydecanol and tuber extract of Disocorea villosa (Actigen Y® available from ACTIVE ORGANICS): 0.5% alcohol and extract of Gentiana lutea root (INFLAN-AT® extract from the company Technoble): 1% Rhodiola crenulata root extract (Rhodiomax® extract from BASF Beauty Care Solutions LLC): 1% Glycerin: 10% Preservatives: 1.25% Sodium polyacrylate: 1% Fragrance: 0.05% Water: QSP 100`) / 0. The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for treating at least one sign of aging of the skin or for treating an imperfection of the skin, in particular for improving the radiance of the skin. homogeneity of the complexion, the brightness of the skin, or improve the quality of the epidermis, or reduce signs of fatigue. The invention therefore relates to a skin care method characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin. The invention also relates to a method for treating at least one sign selected from the group consisting of an alteration of the brightness of the skin, an alteration of the homogeneity of the complexion, an alteration of the brightness of the skin. skin, an alteration of the quality of the epidermis, and a sign of fatigue, the method comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The cosmetic composition can thus be applied to any part of the human body, and more specifically to the skin of the neckline, face, or neck. The method according to the invention makes it possible in particular to treat at least one sign selected from the group consisting of an alteration of the brightness of the skin, an alteration of the homogeneity of the complexion, an alteration of the luminosity skin.

The evaluation of the effects of the cosmetic composition according to the invention on the complexion of the skin may be measured by techniques known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the indications published in example 1 of application WO2011 / 070,508. By way of example, the brightness of the complexion of the face may be visually assessed by an investigating dermatologist after application of the composition comprising the active versus placebo, according to a scale of 0 to 4 (0 = very bright, 1 = radiant; = neither dull nor bright, 3 = dull, 4 = very dull). The invention will be further illustrated by the following example.

EXAMPLE 1 Study of the Effect of the Three Active Agents on the Energy Metabolism of Keratinocytes The aim of this study is to evaluate the effects of the three active ingredients extracted from Gentiana (INFLAN-AT® extract from Technotel), Rhodiola (extract Rhodiomax® from BASF Beauty Care Solutions LLC) and Wild Yam (Actigen Y® available from ACTIVE ORGANICS) on keratinocyte metabolism by measuring the intracellular NAD / NADH ratio in monolayer human keratinocyte cultures. Culture and treatment The cells and keratinocytes were cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds or the reference (SVF at 10 (3/0) and then the cells were incubated for 24 hours for measuring the ratio. NAD / NADH The viability of the cells in contact with the test medium, at the active concentrations tested, was checked beforehand by observing the cell layer and using the MTT reduction test (tetrazolium salt). Total Protein Assay and NAD / NADH Ratio The total protein amount and the NAD / NADH ratio were measured using the DC Protein Assay (Bio-Rad) and NAD / NADH (BioVision) specific kits, respectively. NAD / NADH ratio The intracellular quantities of NAD and NADH were measured and related to the amount of protein extracted.In experimental conditions, after 24 hours of treatment, only the extract of Ge ntiana tested at 0.002% and the combination of 3 actives tested, modulated the ratio NAD / NADH significantly: the first slightly decreased while the association has slightly increased. The other treatments did not significantly modulate the NAD / NADH ratio. Table 1: Effect of the actives on the intracellular content of the keratinocytes in NAD and NADH after 24 hours of treatment. Treatment Quantity of NAD, NADH Ratio NAD / NADH% Control 24H Control 100 SVF 10% 108 Gentiana extract 0.002% 82 * Rhodiola extract 0.02% 92 Dioscorea extract 0.00002% 105 (Wild Yam) Gentiana 0.002% 156 * + Rhodiola + 0.02% + Wild Yam + 0.00002% Statistically significant difference compared to the control medium (* p <0.05). Student's T test.5

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae, a plant extract of the genus Rhodiola and a sapogenin, or a plant extract containing a sapogenin, or a sapogenin ester. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is a plant root extract of the Gentianaceae family. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is a plant extract of the genus Gentiana and / or a plant extract of the genus Gentianella. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is a plant extract of the species Gentiana lutea, Gentiana punctata or Gentiana villarsll. 5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the plant extract of the genus Rhodiola is a plant root extract of the genus Rhodiola. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the sapogenin is selected from the group consisting of diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin, sarsapogenin, tigogenin, yamogenin and yuccagenin. 7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising a plant extract containing diosgenin, the plant extract being a tuberous extract of a plant of the family Dioscoraceae. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising a plant extract containing diosgenin, the plant extract being a tuber extract of a plant of the genus Dioscorea. 9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising a plant extract containing diosgenin, the plant extract being a tubercle extract of a plant of the species Dioscorea villosa or Dioscorea opposita, or mixtures thereof . 10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.001% to 10% of plant extract of the Gentianaceae family, b) 0.001% 10% Rhodiola plant extract, C) 0.00001% to 5% sapogenin, plant extract containing sapogenin or sapogenin ester. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.01% to 1.5% of a plant extract of the genus Gentiana, b 0.1% to 3% of a plant extract of the genus Rhodiola, and c) 0.001% to 1.5% of plant extract of the genus Dioscorea. 12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.001% to 10%, of a Gentiana lutea root extract, b) 0.001% 10% of a Rhodiola crenulata root extract. (c) 0.00001% to 5% of a tuber extract from a plant of the species Dioscorea villosa or Dioscorea opposita. 13. Skin care process characterized in that is applied to the skin a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12. A method for treating at least one sign selected from the group consisting of an alteration of the radiance of the skin, an alteration of the homogeneity of the complexion, an alteration of the brightness of the skin, of an alteration of the quality of the epidermis, and a sign of fatigue, the method comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.