FR2703907A1 - Hydrating cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Hydrating cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- FR2703907A1 FR2703907A1 FR9304363A FR9304363A FR2703907A1 FR 2703907 A1 FR2703907 A1 FR 2703907A1 FR 9304363 A FR9304363 A FR 9304363A FR 9304363 A FR9304363 A FR 9304363A FR 2703907 A1 FR2703907 A1 FR 2703907A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- 230000000887 hydrating effect Effects 0.000 title 1
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 230000036571 hydration Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000006703 hydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- ATVJXMYDOSMEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-prop-2-enoxyprop-1-ene Chemical compound C=CCOCC=C ATVJXMYDOSMEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 5
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920002126 Acrylic acid copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000032050 esterification Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002314 glycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- RFIMISVNSAUMBU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(hydroxymethyl)-2-(prop-2-enoxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)COCC=C RFIMISVNSAUMBU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- RBNPOMFGQQGHHO-UWTATZPHSA-N D-glyceric acid Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)C(O)=O RBNPOMFGQQGHHO-UWTATZPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 125000000746 allylic group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 16
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 5
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 230000003472 neutralizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N allantoin Chemical compound NC(=O)NC1NC(=O)NC1=O POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000012153 distilled water Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylparaben Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JVTIXNMXDLQEJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-decanoyloxypropyl decanoate 2-octanoyloxypropyl octanoate Chemical compound C(CCCCCCC)(=O)OCC(C)OC(CCCCCCC)=O.C(=O)(CCCCCCCCC)OCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC JVTIXNMXDLQEJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WLAMNBDJUVNPJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylbutyric acid Chemical compound CCC(C)C(O)=O WLAMNBDJUVNPJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- POJWUDADGALRAB-PVQJCKRUSA-N Allantoin Natural products NC(=O)N[C@@H]1NC(=O)NC1=O POJWUDADGALRAB-PVQJCKRUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000004385 Centaurea cyanus Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000005940 Centaurea cyanus Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000303965 Cyamopsis psoralioides Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920002148 Gellan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241000208680 Hamamelis mollis Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000220317 Rosa Species 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920006243 acrylic copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000800 acrylic rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000005250 alkyl acrylate group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229960000458 allantoin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003086 cellulose ether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000490 cosmetic additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000524 functional group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000609 methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001923 methylcellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010981 methylcellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- -1 pentaerythritol allyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002189 poly(glycerol 1-O-monomethacrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019422 polyvinyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001267 polyvinylpyrrolidone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylene Natural products CC=C QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- IUEMQUIQAPPJDL-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2,3-dihydroxypropanoate Chemical compound [Na+].OCC(O)C([O-])=O IUEMQUIQAPPJDL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005063 solubilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical compound OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Composition cosmétique hvdratante
L'invention concerne une nouvelle composition cosmétique à pouvoir hydratant particulièrement élevé.Hvdratante cosmetic composition
The invention relates to a new cosmetic composition with particularly high moisturizing power.
Les produits cosmétiques sous forme de gels ont souvent l'inconvénient d'être desséchants pour la peau. On a donc cherché à fabriquer des gels qui ne présentaient pas cet inconvénient. Cosmetic products in the form of gels often have the disadvantage of being drying for the skin. So we tried to make gels that did not have this disadvantage.
Cest ainsi qu'ont été développés des gels de polyglycéryl méthacrylate puis plus récemment des gels de polyglycéryl acrylate. Thus, polyglyceryl methacrylate gels and more recently polyglyceryl acrylate gels were developed.
li existe en particulier des clathrates de glycérine obtenus par estérification partielle de polymères d'acide acrylique avec de la glycérine. A titre d'exemples de tels produits, on citera le produit commercial vendu sous le nom commercial
HISPAGEL par la société Hispano Quimica.In particular, there are glycerin clathrates obtained by partial esterification of acrylic acid polymers with glycerine. By way of examples of such products, mention may be made of the commercial product sold under the trade name
HISPAGEL by the company Hispano Quimica.
De tels gels ont la propriété d'être non desséchants pour la peau, lubrifiants, hydratants et adoucissants. Such gels have the property of being non-drying for the skin, lubricants, moisturizers and softeners.
L'industrie cosmétique utilise de nombreux polymères dérivés d'acide acrylique ou de ses dérivés, en particulier comme agents épaississants ou viscosifiants ou comme agents émulsifiants lorsque la chaîne résultant de la polymérisation de l'acide acrylique porte des chaînes lipophiles liées de façon covalente. The cosmetic industry uses numerous polymers derived from acrylic acid or its derivatives, in particular as thickeners or viscosifiers or as emulsifiers when the chain resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid carries covalently linked lipophilic chains.
C'est en particulier le cas des copolymères d'alkylacrylate en C1 0-C30 et d'un ou plusieurs monomères d'acide acrylique ou méthacrylique ou d'un ester de ces acides réticulés par un allyléther de sucrose ou un allyléther de pentaérythritol. This is particularly the case for C 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers and one or more monomers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or an ester of these acids crosslinked with a sucrose allyl ether or a pentaerythritol allyl ether.
La demanderesse a maintenant découvert que la combinaison dans une même composition cosmétique d'une association de polyglycérylacrylate et de glycérine, en particulier sous forme de clathrate de glycérine et d'un agent gélifiant hydrophile soluble dans l'eau, en particulier d'un copolymère d'acide acrylique portant des ramifications hydrophiles permettait d'obtenir des propriétés hydratantes particulièrement accrues pour la composition. The applicant has now discovered that the combination in the same cosmetic composition of a combination of polyglyceryl acrylate and glycerin, in particular in the form of glycerin clathrate and a water-soluble hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular a copolymer Acrylic acid bearing hydrophilic branches allowed to obtain moisturizing properties particularly increased for the composition.
L'intérêt tout particulier des compositions selon l'invention réside dans leur capacité à hydrater les couches superficielles de l'épiderme avec un effet durable dans Ie temps. The particular interest of the compositions according to the invention lies in their ability to moisturize the superficial layers of the epidermis with a lasting effect over time.
Ainsi donc, selon un premier aspect, l'invention conceme de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques sous forme de gel ou d'émulsion-gel contenant:
- 0,1 à 20 % en poids d'une association de copolymères d'acide acrylique
et de glycérine sous forme de gel présentant une viscosité comprise entre
1 et 4 Pa.s (10 et 140 poises) pour une solution à 10 % de gel dans l'eau,
la viscosité étant mesurée à l'aide d'un viscosimètre Brookfield RO-RV
20 tr/min à 25in,
- 0,1 à 10 % en poids d'au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile soluble
dans l'eau ou formant avec l'eau une solution colloïdale.Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions in the form of a gel or an emulsion-gel containing:
0.1 to 20% by weight of a combination of acrylic acid copolymers
and glycerin in gel form having a viscosity between
1 and 4 Pa.s (10 and 140 poise) for a 10% solution of gel in water,
the viscosity being measured using a Brookfield RO-RV viscometer
20 rpm to 25in,
0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one soluble hydrophilic gelling agent
in water or forming with water a colloidal solution.
Par émulsion-gel, on entend une émulsion de type eau dans l'huile ou huile dans l'eau contenant au moins 30 % de gel. By emulsion-gel is meant a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion containing at least 30% gel.
Les compositions selon l'invention contiennent préférentiellement 2 à 10 % en poids d'association de copolymères d'acide acrylique et de glycérine. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain 2 to 10% by weight of copolymers of acrylic acid and glycerine.
Selon une variante avantageuse de l'invention, l'association entre le copolymère d'acide acrylique et la glycérine est sous la forme d'un clathrate de glycérine. According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the association between the acrylic acid copolymer and the glycerine is in the form of a glycerin clathrate.
Selon une variante avantageuse, les compositions de l'invention contiennent à titre d'association des clathrates obtenus par estérification partielle d'un polymère d'acide acrylique et de glycérine ou d'un sel dérivé de glycérine par exemple un glycérate, de préférence un glycérate de sodium. According to an advantageous variant, the compositions of the invention contain, as an association, clathrates obtained by partial esterification of a polymer of acrylic acid and of glycerol or of a salt derived from glycerin, for example a glycerate, preferably a sodium glycerate.
De tels clathrates sont disponibles dans le commerce. Such clathrates are commercially available.
On citera par exemple les produits vendus sous le nom commercial
Hispagel par la société Hispano Quimica, en particulier le produit vendu sous le nom commercial Hispagel 100 qui présente une viscosité comprise entre 1 et 2,5
Pa.s (10 et 25 poises) en solution diluée à 10 % mesurée dans les conditions définies ci-dessus et le produit vendu sous le nom commercial Hispagel 200 qui présente une viscosité comprise entre 13 et 14 Pa.s (130 et 140 poises) en solution à 10 %, la viscosité étant mesurée dans les mêmes conditions opératoires.For example, the products sold under the trade name
Hispagel by the company Hispano Quimica, in particular the product sold under the trade name Hispagel 100 which has a viscosity of between 1 and 2.5
Pa.s (10 and 25 poise) in 10% diluted solution, measured under the conditions defined above, and the product sold under the trade name Hispagel 200 which has a viscosity of between 13 and 14 Pa.s (130 and 140 poise). ) in 10% solution, the viscosity being measured under the same operating conditions.
On choisira de préférence pour la préparation des compositions selon l'invention des associations présentant une viscosité comprise entre 13 et 14 Pa.s (130 et 140. poises). For the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, preference will be given to combinations having a viscosity of between 13 and 14 Pa.s (130 and 140 poise).
L'agent gélifiant hydrophile peut être tout agent gélifiant hydrophile couramment utilisé dans l'industrie cosmétique. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be any hydrophilic gelling agent commonly used in the cosmetics industry.
A titre d'exemples de tels agents gélifiants hydrophiles, on citera les éthers de cellulose tels que la méthylcellulose ou l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, la polyvinylpyrrolidone, l'alcool polyvinylique, les gommes de guar, les xanthanes, les gellanes. By way of examples of such hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of cellulose ethers such as methylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gums, xanthans and gellanes.
Toutefois, on choisira préférentiellement comme agents gélifiants hydrophiles des polymères carboxyvinyliques obtenus par polymérisation de dérivés de l'acide acrylique. However, carboxyvinyl polymers obtained by polymerization of derivatives of acrylic acid will preferably be chosen as hydrophilic gelling agents.
On choisit plus particulièrement des polymères de cette famille présentant
un pouvoir épaississant élevé en particulier des polymères dont la viscosité des solutions aqueuses à 0,5 % est comprise entre 3 Pa.s. et 60 Pa.s (3000 centipoises et 60 000 centipoises), la viscosité étant mesurée à l'aide d'un viscosimètre Brookfield RVT, à un pH compris entre 7 et 7,8 à une température de 25il, pour une vitesse de rotation de 20 tr/min.More particularly, polymers of this family with
a high thickening power, especially polymers whose viscosity of aqueous solutions at 0.5% is between 3 Pa.s. and 60 Pa.s (3000 centipoise and 60,000 centipoise), the viscosity being measured using a Brookfield RVT viscometer, at a pH of between 7 and 7.8 at a temperature of 25 μl, for a rotational speed 20 rpm.
Les polymères carboxyvinyliques préférés selon l'invention sont ceux qui sont connus à la pharmacopée US sous le nom de "Carbomers". Preferred carboxyvinyl polymers according to the invention are those known in the US Pharmacopoeia under the name "Carbomers".
De tels carbomers sont en particulier vendus par la société Goodrich sous le nom de Carbopol. Such carbomers are in particular sold by Goodrich under the name Carbopol.
Ces polymères sont des polymères d'acide acrylique réticulés par des allyléther de sucrose et/ou des allyléthers de pentaérythritol. De tels polymères sont en particulier vendus sous la dénomination commerciale Carbopol 934,
Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941.These polymers are acrylic acid polymers crosslinked with sucrose allyl ether and / or pentaerythritol allyl ethers. Such polymers are in particular sold under the trade name Carbopol 934,
Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941.
D'autres copolymères intéressants selon l'invention en tant qu'agents géIifiants hydrophiles sont constitués de copolymères d'alkylacrylates en C10-C30 et d'un ou plusieurs monomères d'acide acrylique, d'acide méthacrylique, ou d'un de leurs esters, réticulés par un allyléther de sucrose ou un allyléther de penta érythntol. Other copolymers of interest according to the invention as hydrophilic gelling agents are copolymers of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their esters, crosslinked with a sucrose allyl ether or an allyl ether penta erythtol.
A titre d'exemple des produits ci-dessus, on citera le produit commercialisé par la Société Goodrich sous le nom commercial Carbopol 1342. By way of example of the above products, mention may be made of the product marketed by Goodrich under the trade name Carbopol 1342.
Les compositions selon l'invention contiennent avantageusement de 0,1 à 10 % en poids de polymères hydrophiles gélifiants, plus préférentiellement des concentrations comprises entre 0,2 et 2 %. The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight of hydrophilic gelling polymers, more preferably from 0.2 to 2%.
Les compositions selon l'invention se trouvent sous forme de gels aqueux destinés à toutes utilisations cosmétiques où l'on recherche un effet hydratant des couches superficielles de l'épiderme ou des cheveux. The compositions according to the invention are in the form of aqueous gels intended for all cosmetic uses where a moisturizing effect is sought for the superficial layers of the epidermis or the hair.
Les compositions selon l'invention sont sous forme d'un gel aqueux et sont de préférence formulées pour avoir une viscosité comprise entre 0,2 Pa.s et 300 Pa.s (200 et 300 000 centipoises), de préférence entre 3 Pa.s et 150 Pa.s (3 000 et 150 000 centipoises), ces viscosités étant mesurées à l'aide d'un viscosimètre
Brookfield LVT, vitesse 12 tr/min, mobile 3.The compositions according to the invention are in the form of an aqueous gel and are preferably formulated to have a viscosity of between 0.2 Pa.s and 300 Pa.s (200 and 300 000 centipoise), preferably between 3 Pa. s and 150 Pa.s (3,000 and 150,000 centipoise), these viscosities being measured using a viscometer
Brookfield LVT, speed 12 rpm, mobile 3.
Les compositions selon l'invention ont de préférence un pH compris entre 5 et 7,5, de préférence compris entre 6 et 7 et contiennent avantageusement un agent neutralisant des fonctions acides des copolymères acryliques. A titre d'exemple de
tels agents neutralisants, on citera la triéthanolamine ou le trishydroxyméthyl aminométhane.The compositions according to the invention preferably have a pH of between 5 and 7.5, preferably between 6 and 7, and advantageously contain a neutralizing agent for the acid functional groups of the acrylic copolymers. As an example of
such neutralizing agents include triethanolamine or trishydroxymethyl aminomethane.
Les compositions selon l'invention sont utilisables comme produits de soin du visage, du corps, des cheveux. The compositions according to the invention can be used as care products for the face, body, hair.
Outre les deux constituants essentiels cités précédemment (association de copolymères d'acide acrylique et de glycérine et agent gélifiant hydrophile) et les agents neutralisants destinés à régler le pH, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir différents additifs cosmétiques usuels par exemple:
- des agents conservateurs,
- une composition parfumante,
- des colorants,
- des agents adoucissants classiquement utilisés, par exemple de
l'allantoïne, une eau florale, par exemple de l'eau distillée de rose ou de
bleuet,
- des agents tonifiants, par exemple de l'eau d'hamamélis,
- différents agents destinés à améliorer le toucher cosmétique ou le pouvoir
d'étalement de la composition.In addition to the two essential constituents mentioned previously (combination of copolymers of acrylic acid and glycerin and hydrophilic gelling agent) and the neutralizing agents intended to regulate the pH, the composition according to the invention can contain various usual cosmetic additives, for example:
- preservatives,
a perfuming composition,
- dyes,
softening agents conventionally used, for example
allantoin, a floral water, for example distilled water of rose or
cornflower
toning agents, for example witch hazel water,
- different agents intended to improve the cosmetic touch or the power
spreading the composition.
La combinaison de l'association de polyacrylate de glycéryle et de glycérine et d'un agent gélifiant hydrophile apporte à la composition une capacité exceptionnelle d'hydratation des couches superficielles de l'épiderme qui est en outre durable dans le temps. The combination of the combination of glyceryl polyacrylate and glycerine and a hydrophilic gelling agent provides the composition with an exceptional ability to hydrate the superficial layers of the epidermis which is furthermore durable over time.
L'invention concerne donc également, sous un deuxième aspect, l'utilisation des mélanges des constituants essentiels tels qu'ils ont été définis précédemment pour améliorer l'hydratation des couches superficielles de l'épiderme ou des cheveux. The invention therefore also relates, in a second aspect, the use of mixtures of essential constituents as defined above to improve the hydration of the superficial layers of the epidermis or hair.
Cet effet hydratant exceptionnel des compositions selon l'invention a été mis en évidence par des mesures d'hydratation faites à l'aide d'un cornéomètre faites à raison de trois mesures rapprochées en triangle. L'indice d'hydratation (IH) résulte de la moyenne des trois mesures. This exceptional moisturizing effect of the compositions according to the invention has been demonstrated by hydration measurements made using a corneometer made at three closely spaced triangular measurements. The hydration index (IH) results from the average of the three measurements.
Les mesures sont effectuées en réalisant des études sur différents sujets féminins à peau déshydratée. La préparation selon l'invention est appliquée une seule fois en quantité standardisée sur une joue, l'autre joue représentant la zone témoin. The measurements are made by carrying out studies on different female subjects with dehydrated skin. The preparation according to the invention is applied once in standardized amount on one cheek, the other plays representing the control zone.
Les indices d'hydratation (IH) sont mesurés aux temps suivants:
hg : avant l'application,
- hi : immédiatement après une application,
h0,5 : 30 min après l'application,
- h1 à h6: 1 à 6 h après l'application.The hydration indices (IH) are measured at the following times:
hg: before the application,
- hi: immediately after an application,
h0,5: 30 min after the application,
- h1 to h6: 1 to 6 h after application.
Les résultats montrent que la différence entre la cinétique d'hydratation du côté traité par rapport au côté témoin est statistiquement significative quel que soit le temps considéré et que par ailleurs un gain d'hydratation stable supérieur à 20 % par rapport au témoin persiste encore 6 h après l'application. The results show that the difference between the hydration kinetics of the treated side compared to the control side is statistically significant regardless of the time considered and that moreover stable hydration gain greater than 20% compared to the control still persists. h after the application.
Exemple
On prépare les gels notés A et B dont la composition en pourcentage en poids est donnée dans le tableau ci-dessous, de la façon suivante: 1) On procède à la fabrication du gel de Carbopol 940 à 2 % en introduisant: .Carbopol940 2%
.Conservateurs 0,7 % (phénoxyéthanol, méthyl paraben)
.Eau distillée 97,3 % 2) On dilue à température ambiante le gel de polyacrylate de glycéryle
(Hispagel 200) avec l'eau déminéralisée. On agite jusqu'à parfaite solubilisation.Example
The gels noted A and B are prepared, the percentage composition by weight of which is given in the table below, as follows: 1) The Carbopol 940 gel is manufactured at 2% by introducing: .Carbopol940 2 %
. 0.7% preservatives (phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben)
Distilled water 97.3% 2) The glyceryl polyacrylate gel is diluted at room temperature
(Hispagel 200) with demineralized water. It is stirred until perfect solubilization.
Cette préparation est introduite dans la quantité correspondante de solution de Carbopol à température ambiante en agitant jusqu'à parfaite homogénéisation. This preparation is introduced into the corresponding amount of Carbopol solution at room temperature, stirring until homogenization is complete.
On ajoute ensuite la triéthanolamine puis le butylèneglycol et les agents adoucissants, le parfum puis le colorant. Triethanolamine and then butylene glycol and the softening agents, the perfume and then the colorant are then added.
Tableau
<tb> <SEP> Ingrédients <SEP> Gel <SEP> A <SEP> Gel <SEP> B
<tb> <SEP> en <SEP> % <SEP> <SEP> en
<tb> Polyacrylate <SEP> de <SEP> glycéryle <SEP> 3,000 <SEP> 6,400
<tb> Carbopol <SEP> 940 <SEP> 0,300
<tb> Butylène <SEP> glycol <SEP> 1,000 <SEP> 6,000
<tb> Triéthanolamine <SEP> 0,300 <SEP> 0,600
<tb> Conservateurs <SEP> 1,2-20 <SEP> 0,300
<tb> Colorants <SEP> CI <SEP> 77007 <SEP> 0,005
<tb> Parfum <SEP> 0,100
<tb> Eau <SEP> q.s.p. <SEP> 100 <SEP> q.s.p. <SEP> 100
<tb> Carbopol <SEP> 1342 <SEP> ~ <SEP> <SEP> 0,340
<tb> Propylène <SEP> glycol <SEP> ~ <SEP> <SEP> 2,350
<tb> Agents <SEP> adoucissants <SEP> - <SEP> 35,000
<tb>
Dans les deux cas, on obtient un gain d'hydratation stable de 24 % par rapport au témoin. <tb><SEP> Ingredients <SEP> Freeze <SEP> A <SEP> Freeze <SEP> B
<tb><SEP> in <SEP>% <SEP><SEP> in
<tb> Polyacrylate <SEP> of <SEP> Glyceryl <SEP> 3,000 <SEP> 6,400
<tb> Carbopol <SEP> 940 <SEP> 0.300
<tb> Butylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 1,000 <SEP> 6,000
<tb> Triethanolamine <SEP> 0.300 <SEP> 0.600
<tb> Preservatives <SEP> 1,2-20 <SEP> 0,300
<tb> Colorants <SEP> CI <SEP> 77007 <SEP> 0.005
<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.100
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100
<tb> Carbopol <SEP> 1342 <SEP> ~ <SEP><SEP> 0.340
<tb> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> ~ <SEP><SEP> 2,350
<tb> Softening agents <SEP><SEP> - <SEP> 35,000
<Tb>
In both cases, a stable hydration gain of 24% is obtained with respect to the control.
Claims (8)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR9304363A FR2703907B1 (en) | 1993-04-14 | 1993-04-14 | MOISTURIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION. |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR9304363A FR2703907B1 (en) | 1993-04-14 | 1993-04-14 | MOISTURIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION. |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2703907A1 true FR2703907A1 (en) | 1994-10-21 |
| FR2703907B1 FR2703907B1 (en) | 1995-07-13 |
Family
ID=9446040
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR9304363A Expired - Fee Related FR2703907B1 (en) | 1993-04-14 | 1993-04-14 | MOISTURIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION. |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2703907B1 (en) |
Cited By (6)
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| WO1997002006A1 (en) * | 1995-07-03 | 1997-01-23 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Preparation for treating keratin fibres |
| WO1998003152A1 (en) * | 1996-07-19 | 1998-01-29 | Sederma S.A. | Compositions for treating sunburn and oral hygiene problems |
| EP1264631A1 (en) * | 2001-06-08 | 2002-12-11 | Cognis Iberia, S.L. | Polymer emulsifyers |
| WO2007044487A1 (en) * | 2005-10-11 | 2007-04-19 | Dfb Pharmaceuticals, Inc. | Surfactant-free dispersions, compositions, and use in topical formulations |
| US7758864B2 (en) * | 2003-12-05 | 2010-07-20 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| WO2020144380A1 (en) * | 2019-01-11 | 2020-07-16 | Biopass | Product for the treatment of dysbioses |
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| JPS59116206A (en) * | 1982-12-24 | 1984-07-05 | Kobayashi Kooc:Kk | Cosmetic |
| US4863725A (en) * | 1982-10-27 | 1989-09-05 | Deckner George E | Novel clear oil-free moisturizer composition |
| WO1991011171A1 (en) * | 1990-02-01 | 1991-08-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions |
| WO1992009263A1 (en) * | 1990-11-30 | 1992-06-11 | Richardson-Vicks, Inc. | Gel type compositions having improved oil control |
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| US4863725A (en) * | 1982-10-27 | 1989-09-05 | Deckner George E | Novel clear oil-free moisturizer composition |
| JPS59116206A (en) * | 1982-12-24 | 1984-07-05 | Kobayashi Kooc:Kk | Cosmetic |
| WO1991011171A1 (en) * | 1990-02-01 | 1991-08-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions |
| WO1992009263A1 (en) * | 1990-11-30 | 1992-06-11 | Richardson-Vicks, Inc. | Gel type compositions having improved oil control |
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Cited By (15)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1997002006A1 (en) * | 1995-07-03 | 1997-01-23 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Preparation for treating keratin fibres |
| WO1998003152A1 (en) * | 1996-07-19 | 1998-01-29 | Sederma S.A. | Compositions for treating sunburn and oral hygiene problems |
| EP1264631A1 (en) * | 2001-06-08 | 2002-12-11 | Cognis Iberia, S.L. | Polymer emulsifyers |
| WO2002100523A1 (en) * | 2001-06-08 | 2002-12-19 | Cognis Iberia, S.L. | Polymer emulsifiers |
| US8114413B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2012-02-14 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US7758864B2 (en) * | 2003-12-05 | 2010-07-20 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US8318178B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2012-11-27 | Mary Kay, Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US8388978B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2013-03-05 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US9877914B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2018-01-30 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US10668008B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2020-06-02 | Mary Kay Inc. | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| US11406586B2 (en) | 2003-12-05 | 2022-08-09 | Belaj Innovations Llc | Compositions of marine botanicals to provide nutrition to aging and environmentally damaged skin |
| WO2007044487A1 (en) * | 2005-10-11 | 2007-04-19 | Dfb Pharmaceuticals, Inc. | Surfactant-free dispersions, compositions, and use in topical formulations |
| WO2020144380A1 (en) * | 2019-01-11 | 2020-07-16 | Biopass | Product for the treatment of dysbioses |
| FR3091650A1 (en) * | 2019-01-11 | 2020-07-17 | Biopass | PRODUCT FOR THE TREATMENT OF DYSBIOSES |
| US12458671B2 (en) | 2019-01-11 | 2025-11-04 | Biopass | Product for the treatment of dysbiosis |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2703907B1 (en) | 1995-07-13 |
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