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EP3408436B1 - Tricot ainsi que procédé et dispositif de fabrication de ce tricot - Google Patents

Tricot ainsi que procédé et dispositif de fabrication de ce tricot Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3408436B1
EP3408436B1 EP18702334.6A EP18702334A EP3408436B1 EP 3408436 B1 EP3408436 B1 EP 3408436B1 EP 18702334 A EP18702334 A EP 18702334A EP 3408436 B1 EP3408436 B1 EP 3408436B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
roving
knitting machine
roller pair
thread
knitted fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP18702334.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3408436A1 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Mutschler
Hermann Schmodde
Michael Lau
Johannes Barth
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Terrot GmbH
Original Assignee
Terrot GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Terrot GmbH filed Critical Terrot GmbH
Publication of EP3408436A1 publication Critical patent/EP3408436A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3408436B1 publication Critical patent/EP3408436B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/14—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for incorporating loose fibres, e.g. in high-pile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/025—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features incorporating loose fibres, e.g. high-pile fabrics or artificial fur
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/02—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with one set of needles
    • D04B9/025—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with one set of needles with stitch-length regulation
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric, in which a sliver in the form of a roving from non-consolidated fiber bundles of a roving warping and consolidation unit, a drafting device with at least two pairs of drawing rollers arranged one after the other in the yarn transport direction and a spinneret device arranged downstream of the drawing device in the yarn transport direction has, fed and is distorted by the at least two pairs of drawing rollers, at least one input roller pair and one output roller pair of the drafting device being driven in a controlled manner in accordance with the pattern of the knitted fabric to be formed on the knitting machine in such a way that the yarn thickness of the drawn roving over its length by changing the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair is varied, the warped roving emerging from the drafting device is fed to the spinneret device and through this by means of pressure load is solidified, and then the warped, solidified roving is fed directly or via at least one transport or clamping means to the knitting machine
  • the present invention further relates to a device for producing a knitted fabric, which has at least one knitting machine, at least one roving warping and consolidation unit arranged upstream of the knitting machine in the yarn transport direction, which has at least one drafting device with at least two pairs of drawing rollers arranged one after the other in the yarn transport direction and at least one of the drawing devices in the Spinning nozzle device arranged downstream of the yarn transport direction, at least one driven roller of an input roller pair and at least one driven roller of an output roller pair of the drafting system being coupled to at least one drive, which is / are coupled to a pattern control for the knitting machine.
  • the present invention relates to a knitted fabric which is formed from a warped, consolidated roving with a yarn thickness varying along its length, the yarn thickness of the warped, consolidated roving depending on is formed from the pattern of the knitted fabric.
  • a device and a method for producing a knitted fabric in which a knitting machine is directly coupled to a roving warping and consolidation unit, which has a drafting device for warping a roving and a spinneret device for temporary consolidation of the warped roving, the length the yarn consolidation path following the spinneret device is defined by a pair of pinch rollers.
  • the warped, consolidated roving can be guided directly from the roving warping and consolidation unit over a long distance expedient for industrial applications to the knitting machine. In this way, particularly soft and plump knitwear can advantageously be produced.
  • Yarns with a varying yarn thickness are also known from the prior art, but mostly the yarn thickness of such so-called nubbed yarns is changed only with regard to the appearance of the knitted fabric made from the yarn.
  • the pimple yarn can have thickenings, so-called pimples, at regular or irregular intervals.
  • Yarns with knobs varying in length and spacing from one another are used in particular to produce knitwear which is intended to give the impression that they have been hand-knitted.
  • a randomly changing signal is generated to generate the thickening of the knobbed yarn, which causes that the working speed of the rear set of stretchers is controlled completely independently of the working speed of the front set of stretchers.
  • a combination of spinning device and knitting machine is used, with the spinning device being able to produce a fiber structure or a yarn of variable thickness from a roving and to be able to feed the stitch forming elements of the knitting machine.
  • at least two roller pairs of a drafting system of the spinning device have their own, independently controllable drive devices by means of which the relative speed between an input and an output roller pair of the drafting system can be changed, or friction spinning devices with at least one feed roller are provided on the machine, the speed of which is in relation is controllable to a pair of discharge rollers.
  • the known device and the known method can be used to produce knitwear with a pattern which is produced by forming stitches with a different fiber bandage or yarn thickness, the pattern being formed by varying the fiber bandage or yarn thickness in the direction of the stitch rows and / or in the direction of the wale .
  • the object is achieved on the one hand by a method of the type mentioned at the outset, in which, by controlling the rotational speed of at least one roller of the pair of output rollers of the drafting system, the yarn delivery speed of the warped, solidified roving to the knitting machine depending on the stitch size to be knitted by the knitting machine.
  • the processing of the warping, hardened roving which varies in thickness, can optimize the use of material when producing a knitted fabric.
  • the yarn thickness of the warped, hardened roving emerging from the roving warping and strengthening unit is changed according to a pattern knitted by the knitting machine by the roving warping and hardening unit coupled to the knitting machine.
  • a sliver in the form of an unconsolidated fiber bundle is fed to a drafting device of the roving drafting and setting unit, which is drawn by at least two pairs of drawing rollers arranged one behind the other in the yarn transport direction and arranged by a spinning device downstream of the drawing device in the yarn transport direction is solidified.
  • a spinning device downstream of the drawing device in the yarn transport direction is solidified.
  • the consolidation section can be terminated, for example, by a pair of pinch rollers following in the yarn transport direction of the spinneret device, whereupon the thickly varied, warped, bonded roving can be transported over long distances without any problems directly from the roving warping and consolidation unit to the knitting machine arranged downstream in the yarn transport direction.
  • At least one pair of input rollers i.e. the first pair of drawing rollers in the direction of yarn transport
  • one pair of output rollers i.e. the last pair of drawing rollers of the drafting device in the direction of yarn transport
  • the control takes place in such a way that the yarn thickness of the warped roving produced by the drafting device is varied over its length by changing the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair.
  • the yarn thickness of the warped roving can be varied over its length by changing the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair.
  • the rotational speed of the controlled input roller pair is advantageously changed so that more or less sliver is fed to the drafting system depending on the set rotational speed.
  • the speed of rotation of the pair of output rollers can be kept constant, for example. In alternative embodiments, however, the speed of rotation of the pair of output rollers relative to a constant speed of the pair of input rollers can also be varied depending on the pattern to be knitted.
  • both the input and the output roller pair can be driven in a controlled manner such that the yarn thickness of the warped roving emerging from the drafting device can be adapted to the pattern to be knitted via the relative speed between the input and output roller pair.
  • the rotation speed of the controlled input roller pair can be changed according to the pattern.
  • the yarn thickness of the warped, hardened roving to be produced increases.
  • the yarn thickness of the warped, solidified roving to be produced decreases with a reduction in the rotational speed of at least one driven roller of the input roller pair relative to the rotational speed of at least one driven roller of the output roller pair.
  • each case only one roller of the pairs of stretching rollers is driven, the respective second roller moving in the opposite direction to the driven roller by pressing against it.
  • both rolls of a pair of stretching rolls can also be driven.
  • the slub fed to the drafting system can also be warped by more than two, for example three or four, pairs of drafting rollers.
  • spinnerets of the spinneret device contain the warped roving in Twist the yarn transport direction and convey it automatically, the spinneret device advantageously having at least two spinnerets which operate pneumatically and act on the warped roving emerging from the drafting device with compressed air with opposite directions of rotation in each case.
  • At least one pinch roller of one of the pair of pinch rollers arranged downstream of the spinning nozzle device in the yarn transport direction is driven, wherein the rotation speed of the at least one pinch roller can also be changed here, depending on the pattern to be knitted, depending on the embodiment variant of the method according to the invention.
  • the yarn delivery speed of the warped, consolidated roving to the knitting machine is set as a function of the stitch size to be knitted by the knitting machine.
  • the change in the yarn delivery speed is thus made possible in the method according to the invention by adapting the rotation speed of the last pair of drawing rollers of the drafting device in the direction of yarn transport, the rotation speed of the output roller pair having to be set higher for an increasing yarn delivery speed and the rotation speed of which having to be reduced to achieve a falling yarn delivery speed.
  • both the yarn count or yarn thickness, ie the mass of the yarn per yarn section, and the yarn delivery quantity are adapted to the stitch size of the knitted fabric to be knitted.
  • both rollers of the pair of output rollers can also be driven in a pattern-controlled manner.
  • stitches of different sizes can be knitted on the knitting machine, the stitch size to be knitted being made possible by varying the depth of cut on the knitting machine.
  • By knitting stitches of different sizes transparent and less transparent areas can be created in a knitted fabric.
  • leggings and tights known from the prior art are, if they are not assembled from different parts, consistently formed from a knitted fabric with a constant yarn thickness. As a result, the leggings or tights are transparent or translucent, for example due to a greater stretch in the buttocks area. In order to prevent the underwear and / or skin from showing through, the leggings or tights have to be bought accordingly, which in turn has the disadvantage that it slips more easily and, for example, is not tight enough in the calf area.
  • the diameter of the knitted fabric is largely defined by the structural conditions, such as cylinder diameter and number of needles. This can only be changed within certain limits by varying the mesh size. Manufacturers exploit this effect with leggings.
  • the knitted fabric diameter increases with increasing stitch size. Thus, a leggings leg can be given a certain shape. However, this shaping is only possible with a predetermined thread size.
  • the opacity of small meshes and thus of small knitted fabric diameter is higher than that of large meshes and thus large knitted fabric diameter.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to adapt the thread size and the mesh size to the knitting pattern to be formed.
  • the drafting system is therefore controlled such that the larger the stitch size to be knitted by the knitting machine, the lower the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair and the greater the rotational speed of the at least one driven roller of the output roller pair , and the smaller the stitch size to be knitted by the knitting machine, the greater the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair and the lower the rotational speed of the at least one driven roller of the output roller pair is set.
  • knitwear such as leggings or tights
  • an unattractive shining through of underwear and / or skin, for example in the region of the buttocks as a result of increased stretching in this area can be avoided.
  • the stitches when using the method according to the invention, can be knitted larger in areas in which the knitted fabric produced is subjected to greater stretching during wear, such as in the area of the buttocks, and on the other hand the yarn thickness can be increased depending on the size of the stitches .
  • the yarn thickness is advantageously adapted as a function of the stitch size to be produced, the yarn thickness of the warped, hardened roving supplied to the knitting point increasing with increasing stitch size and the yarn thickness decreasing with decreasing stitch size.
  • the stitch size and the yarn thickness of the knitted fabric to be formed are thus determined in a pattern-controlled manner.
  • the relative speed between the input roller pair and the output roller pair is preferably set inversely proportional to the stitch size to be knitted by the knitting machine, and the rotational speed of the at least one driven roller of the output roller pair is set directly proportional to the stitch size.
  • the warped, solidified roving cannot be fed to the knitting machine with constant yarn tension, but can be adapted to the knitting pattern, for example.
  • auxiliary thread feed speed to the drafting system depending on the stitch size of the knitted fabric to be formed on the knitting machine and / or depending on Elongation properties of the auxiliary thread is controlled.
  • the auxiliary thread feeding speed to the drafting device can also be controlled depending on the pattern of the knitwear to be formed on the knitting machine.
  • the auxiliary thread is drawn off through the last pair of drawing rollers of the drafting device in the direction of yarn transport, that is to say the pair of output rollers. Since the individual rollers of the drafting system may move at different speeds of rotation, the auxiliary thread fed to the last pair of drafting roller rollers of the drafting system is only exposed to a single rotational speed, so that the feeding of the auxiliary thread is suitably adapted to this rotational speed and thus to the pattern of the knitted fabric to be formed on the knitting machine can.
  • the auxiliary thread can also be fed to the roving at another point, for example before it is fed to the drafting system.
  • a core-sheath yarn is formed by feeding the auxiliary thread to the roving, in which the warped, consolidated roving wraps around the auxiliary thread in bundles.
  • an inelastic thread a so-called core thread, or an elastic thread, a so-called elastane thread
  • auxiliary thread By using the auxiliary thread, the warped, hardened roving to be fed to the knitting machine and containing the auxiliary thread can be made available with increased stability.
  • the roving can also have more than one auxiliary thread, for example two or three Auxiliary threads are fed. It has proven to be advantageous here if the respective auxiliary threads are fed to the drafting device by separate auxiliary thread feed devices. However, they can also be transported to the roving by means of a single auxiliary thread feed device.
  • a knitted fabric can be produced in which an unsightly shimmering effect due to a large elongation, as explained above, often for example in the case of Leggings or tights in the buttocks area should be avoided.
  • a knitted fabric can be produced which, particularly when worn, has approximately the same transparency or opacity and a beautiful, uniform overall impression, without undesirable shimmering effects.
  • the at least one auxiliary thread such as at least one elastane thread
  • the at least one auxiliary thread can be introduced into the roving as a core thread, that is to say as an auxiliary thread covered by fibers of the roving.
  • this has clothing physiological advantages for the person wearing it.
  • the elastane then does not lie on the skin as with plating, but is covered by the fiber covering.
  • two or more warped, consolidated rovings can also be formed by a common roving warping and consolidation unit and subsequently fed to one or more separate knitting systems of the knitting machine.
  • roving warping and consolidation units it is also possible for several roving warping and consolidation units to be combined into one module and to be electronically controlled together. In this case, either all roving warping and strengthening units or only individual roving warping and strengthening units can be combined into one module. Modular operation of the roving warping and strengthening units has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to the use in small circular knitting machines.
  • a knitting system of the knitting machine is supplied with warped, consolidated roving by at least two of the roving warping and consolidation units.
  • two, three, four or even more than four strands of warped, consolidated roving can be produced separately and brought together at the respective knitting system, that is to say at the respective stitch formation point.
  • the object of the present invention is further achieved by a device of the type mentioned at the outset, in which the knitting machine has a depth adjustment device which is coupled to the pattern control for the knitting machine and the at least one drive for the at least one driven roller of an output roller pair.
  • the pre-drawn yarn can be twisted by the device according to the invention be formed with different yarn thickness, the material use of which is optimally adapted to the stitch structure to be formed on the knitting machine.
  • the knitting machine is coupled to a roving drafting and consolidation unit, which has at least one drafting device with at least two pairs of clamping rollers arranged one after the other in the yarn transport direction, a spinneret device arranged downstream in the yarn transport direction, and advantageously, but not necessarily, the one Consolidation distance of the spinneret device limiting clamping roller pair.
  • a sliver in the form of an unconsolidated fiber bundle is fed to the first pinch roller pair of the drafting device in the direction of yarn transport, which is stretched by the individual pairs of drafting rollers and solidified by means of the spinneret device.
  • the warped, consolidated roving can be given additional stability by the pair of pinch rollers arranged below.
  • At least one roller of each pair of stretching rollers is driven by a drive, both rollers also being able to be driven.
  • a change in yarn thickness is achieved in particular by varying the rotational speed of the input roller pair relative to the output roller pair of the drafting system.
  • the spinneret device arranged downstream of the drafting device in the yarn transport direction preferably has two self-promoting spinnerets, as a result of which the warped roving is transported by an air flow of the spinnerets directed in the working direction.
  • the two spinnerets are arranged one after the other in the yarn conveying direction, these working pneumatically and having an opposite three-phase current.
  • the pinch roller pair advantageously arranged downstream of the spinning nozzle device in the yarn transport direction can also be coupled or can be coupled to a drive by means of which at least one pinch roller of the pinch roller pair is driven.
  • the warped, hardened roving is given additional stability and strength, as a result of which the warped roving which is clamped after the spinning nozzle hardening can also be transported to the knitting machine over a relatively long distance without any problems the roving, which is only temporarily solidified, dissolves during this transport.
  • this type of coupling of the spinning device and the knitting machine enables particularly soft knitted fabrics to be produced very efficiently, in a space-saving manner and comparatively inexpensively.
  • the knitting machine has a cut depth adjustment device which is coupled to the pattern control for the knitting machine.
  • the stitch size to be knitted can advantageously be varied by the depth adjustment device.
  • the coupling of the depth adjustment device with the pattern control of the knitting machine makes it possible to change the stitch size depending on a pattern to be knitted.
  • a stitch-forming needle is driven further or less far by means of the depth adjustment device.
  • knitwear such as leggings or tights can be produced which have almost the same transparency or opacity even when worn.
  • the stitches are expediently made larger in areas in which the knitted fabrics are exposed to higher strains, for example in the buttocks area of a wearer, at the same time increasing the yarn thickness of the knitted fabric.
  • the yarn thickness can also be reduced with increasing stitch size. The adjustment of the yarn thickness can also be done according to the pattern.
  • the device has a measuring device for determining a yarn tension of a warped, consolidated roving emerging from the roving warping and setting unit.
  • the measuring device can ensure that the warped, hardened roving is fed to the respective knitting point of the knitting machine with constant yarn tension, whereby the warped, hardened roving can be processed in a particularly suitable manner and, at the same time, a knitted fabric of high quality can be produced.
  • the measuring device can also be used to determine a yarn transport speed or another process parameter.
  • a yarn transport speed or another process parameter based on regulates the values of the spinning and / or knitting process determined by the measuring device, it being possible to set one or more process parameters, such as the rotational speed of one or more pairs of stretching rollers.
  • the device has at least one auxiliary thread feed device which is connected to the drafting device and can be controlled by the pattern control for the knitting machine and / or depending on the stretching properties of an auxiliary thread to be fed to the drafting device.
  • auxiliary thread feed device By inserting an auxiliary thread into the warped, consolidated roving, this is given additional strength and stability. Elongation properties of the warped, consolidated roving can also be influenced by the auxiliary thread, for example.
  • the auxiliary thread feed device preferably has a take-off which is realized by the pair of output rollers, that is to say the last pair of draw rollers in the direction of yarn transport, of the draw frame, as a result of which the auxiliary thread can be picked up by the last pair of draw rollers and integrated into the warped yarn.
  • the speed of the auxiliary thread feeding device can be optimally adapted to the rotational speed of the last pair of drafting rollers and / or the pattern control of the knitting machine.
  • the auxiliary thread feeding device can also be controlled as a function of the stretching properties of the auxiliary thread.
  • the auxiliary thread can be elastic or inelastic.
  • a core-sheath yarn is preferably created, in which the core is formed by the auxiliary thread.
  • more than one auxiliary thread for example two or three auxiliary threads, can also be fed to the warped, consolidated roving.
  • the configuration of the warped, consolidated roving as a core-sheath yarn prevents an unsightly shimmering effect of the knitted fabric, such as leggings or tights, when the knitted fabric is stretched. Furthermore, a shimmering effect can also be caused by the Enlargement of the stitches in combination with the enlargement of the yarn thickness in areas of great elongation can be avoided.
  • knitting systems of the knitting machine are each assigned at least two separate roving warping and strengthening units which are independent of one another in terms of control technology.
  • Such an embodiment has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to use in a small circular knitting machine.
  • roving warping and strengthening units can also be combined to form a module and coupled in terms of control technology.
  • Such an application is particularly advantageous with regard to the use in large circular knitting machines.
  • all or only individual roving warping and strengthening units can be coupled in terms of control technology.
  • the object of the present invention is also achieved by a knitted fabric of the type mentioned at the outset, in which the yarn thickness of the warped, solidified roving is formed as a function of the respective stitch size of the knitted fabric, the yarn thickness increasing with increasing stitch size and the yarn thickness with decreasing stitch size decreases.
  • the material used can be optimally adapted to the stitch structure of the knitwear.
  • the yarn thickness of the warped, solidified roving used for its production is designed as a function of the respective stitch size of the knitted fabric, the yarn thickness increasing with increasing stitch size and the yarn thickness decreasing with decreasing stitch size.
  • the knitted fabric is very particularly preferably a seamless, circular-knitted knitted fabric with a changing diameter and nevertheless a constant opacity.
  • the knitted fabric can be a stocking, the diameter of which increases in the calf area from bottom to top, as a result of which the stitch size in this calf area increases from bottom to top and nevertheless the opacity remains the same, since according to the invention when knitting this calf area from bottom to top, that is with larger stitches, both more and thicker yarn is fed to the knitting point. The same applies vice versa when knitting this calf area from top to bottom, where with smaller stitches both less and thinner yarn is fed to the knitting point.
  • the knitted fabric according to the invention is designed such that it has the same transparency or opacity even when stretched or worn.
  • the yarn thickness can also decrease with increasing stitch size, so that particularly transparent as well as particularly opaque areas can be produced.
  • the knitted fabric can be a knitted fabric having a pattern.
  • Figure 1 schematically shows a section of a warped roving 4b that can be produced as an intermediate product of an embodiment of the method according to the invention in a side view, the roving 4b having a length I in the example shown.
  • the in Figure 1 The roving section of the roving 4b shown has three areas 41, 41 ', 42, which are distinguished by different yarn thicknesses d, d'. As in Figure 1 shown, the roving 4b in the area 42 has a greater yarn thickness than in the areas 41, 41 '.
  • yarn thickness d, d'einem is on a knitting machine, to which the roving 4b is fed in a temporarily solidified form as a warped, solidifying roving is adapted to knitting patterns.
  • the yarn thickness d, d'als also the pattern of the length in which the roving 4b has a larger or smaller diameter.
  • the roving 4b unlike in Figure 1 depicted, also have a constant yarn thickness d, d over a long distance.
  • the yarn thickness d, d' can also vary in very short intervals.
  • the areas 41, 41 ', 42, in which the yarn thickness d, d changes, can recur regularly or be irregularly patterned.
  • the warped roving 4b consists of individual fibers 40 which surround an auxiliary thread that is not visible here.
  • the auxiliary thread can be elastic or inelastic.
  • a warped roving can also be formed which has no auxiliary thread or which has more than one auxiliary thread.
  • Figure 2 shows schematically an embodiment of an embodiment of a device 1 according to the invention in a sectional side view, the same reference numerals as in Figure 1 Describe the same component and reference is made to the previous descriptions in this regard.
  • the device 1 shown has a knitting machine 2 and a roving warping and strengthening unit 10 coupled to the knitting machine 2.
  • the roving warping and strengthening unit 10 has a drafting device 5, a spinneret device 6 arranged downstream of the drafting device 5 in a yarn transport direction A and, in the exemplary embodiment shown, a pinch roller pair 7 following the spinneret device 6 in the yarn transport direction A.
  • the drafting device 5 has three pairs of drawing rollers 51, 52, 53 arranged one after the other in the yarn transport direction A and spaced apart 561, 562.
  • the device 1 can also have only two pairs of stretching rollers 51, 53 or more than three pairs of stretching rollers 51, 52, 53.
  • the stretching roller pairs 51, 52, 53 in turn are each formed by two rollers 511, 512, 521, 522, 531, 532.
  • the first drawing roller pair 51 in the yarn transport direction A, the input roller pair, of the drafting device 5 a fuse 4a in the form of an unconsolidated fiber bundle is fed.
  • the fuse 4a is provided in the exemplary embodiment shown by a roving supply unit 3, which has a flyer spool 31, and is guided to the pair of input rollers 51.
  • the sliver 4a is stretched by means of the pairs of drafting rollers 51, 52, 53.
  • a roller 511, 521, 531 of the respective pair of stretching rollers 51, 52, 53 is coupled to a drive 8, 8 ', 8 "which drives the respective roller 511, 521, 531.
  • the non-driven rollers 512, 522, 532 of the respective pair of drafting rollers 51, 52, 53 are printed against the driven rollers 511, 521, 531 with the aid of a drafting pressure arm 54 using springs 541.
  • the rollers 512, 522, 532 are mounted in such a way that they can rotate in the opposite direction to the rollers 511, 521, 531.
  • the pattern controller 9 is also coupled to a schematically illustrated depth adjustment device 91 of the knitting machine 2.
  • the process is advantageously regulated in such a way that the yarn thickness d increases with increasing stitch size and the yarn thickness d decreases with decreasing stitches, so that knitwear such as leggings or tights can be produced, which, even when worn, has an almost constant transparency or Have opacity, which an ugly show through in places, which may be stretched more than others, can be avoided.
  • the process in alternative variants can also be regulated in such a way that the yarn thickness d, d'decreases with increasing stitch size and vice versa. Accordingly, particularly transparent areas can be formed in the knitted fabric.
  • the warped roving 4b emerging from the drafting device 5 subsequently enters a spinneret device 6.
  • the warped roving 4b is rotated in the spinneret device 6 by means of air jets.
  • the spinneret device 6 consists of two spinnerets 61, 62 arranged one after the other, which are air swirling nozzles.
  • the air flows generated by the two spinnerets 61, 62 have opposite directions of rotation B, C, so that a false wire is formed.
  • the spinning nozzle device 6 is subsequently provided in the yarn transport direction A with a pair of pinch rollers 7 which has two pinch rollers 71, 72 which can be rotated in opposite directions.
  • the distorted, solidified roving 4c emerging from the spinneret device 6 is carried out by the clamping rollers 71, 72 pressed against one another, so that on the one hand a feedthrough and on the other hand a nip point for the roving 4c is formed.
  • the clamping point limits the fiber consolidation distance after the spinneret device 6.
  • the warped, consolidated roving 4d emerges from the pair of clamping rollers and is subsequently fed directly to the knitting machine 2.
  • the illustrated embodiment of the device 1 'according to the invention is fed to the roving 4b with the aid of an auxiliary thread feed device 220, an inelastic auxiliary thread 22 which serves to increase the strength of the warped, consolidated roving 4d.
  • the inelastic auxiliary thread 22 is drawn off from a bobbin 24 with an auxiliary thread pinch roller pair 23, in the exemplary embodiment shown it is fed to the drafting device 5 via a thread guide tube 26 and integrated into the roving 4b.
  • the inelastic auxiliary thread 22 is fed to the last pair of draw rollers in the yarn transport direction A, i.e. the output roller pair 53 of the drafting unit 5, so that the thread feed speed v 4 of the auxiliary thread 22 only has to be adapted to the rotational speed x 3 of the output roller pair 53.
  • the thread tension of the inelastic auxiliary thread 22 can be checked by means of a thread tension measuring device 43 provided between the auxiliary thread clamping roller pair 23 and the drafting device 5.
  • a thread tension measuring device 43 provided between the auxiliary thread clamping roller pair 23 and the drafting device 5.
  • an elastic auxiliary thread 25 for example an elastane thread, is fed to the roving 4b by means of a further auxiliary thread feed device 210.
  • This elastic auxiliary thread 25 is passed through a peripheral drive with the possibility of setting an exact auxiliary thread tension via a thread tension measuring device 42 and then fed to the pair of drawing rollers 53.
  • the elastic auxiliary thread 25 is fed together with the inelastic auxiliary thread 22 at a thread feed speed v 5 to the drafting device 5 via the thread guide tube 26.
  • the auxiliary thread feed device 220, 210 is controlled on the basis of the pattern control and / or the elongation properties of the auxiliary thread 22, 25.
  • the auxiliary thread feed device 220, 210 is coupled to the pattern control, the auxiliary thread 23, 25 can be used in accordance with the pattern.
  • it can be selected whether an elastic auxiliary thread 25 or an inelastic auxiliary thread 22 is used. It is also possible to decide, depending on the application, whether only one auxiliary thread 22 or 25 or possibly a plurality of auxiliary threads 22, 25 are fed to the roving 4b.
  • auxiliary threads 22, 25 are used, they should, as in Figure 3 shown, in view of the possibly different auxiliary thread tensions by means of separate auxiliary thread feeders 220, 210 are fed to the drafting device 5.
  • auxiliary thread feeders 220, 210 are fed to the drafting device 5.
  • a plurality of auxiliary threads can also be fed by means of a single auxiliary thread feed device.
  • the device 1, 1 ' can advantageously be used to simply produce knitwear with stitches of different sizes, so that with regard to the yarn thickness d, d' which is variable as a function of the stitch size. very transparent or opaque knitwear can be provided.
  • the yarn delivery speed is varied from the roving drafting and consolidation unit to the knitting machine, which is realized by changing the rotational speed of the last pair of draw rollers, that is, the output roller pair 53, in the yarn transport direction A.
  • a knitted fabric with different technical properties can be produced.
  • the fiber content in the finished thread is changed in the method according to the invention.
  • the thread count is determined during the process. In this way, for example, conductive auxiliary threads can be sheathed with different numbers of fibers, which in part produces different properties in the knitted fabric that is produced.
  • the present invention it is possible to influence the abrasion resistance of a knitted fabric by adjusting the stitch size and the thread size.
  • the present invention can be used to influence the performance properties of a knitwear, such as its moisture transport properties and / or heat retention.
  • the present invention can also or alternatively influence the thermal conductivity and / or the thermal insulation properties of knitwear.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Spinning Or Twisting Of Yarns (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot présentant un motif, dans lequel un ruban en forme de mèche (4a) constituée de faisceaux de fibres non consolidés est amené à une unité d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) qui comporte un banc d'étirage (5) comprenant au moins deux paires de rouleaux d'étirage (51, 52, 53) disposées successivement dans la direction de transport de mèche (A) et une filière (6) disposée en aval du banc d'étirage (5) dans la direction de transport de mèche (A), lequel ruban est tiré par au moins deux paires de rouleaux d'étirage (51, 52, 53), au moins une paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et une paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) de l'unité d'étirage (5) sont entraînées de manière commandée suivant le motif de tricot à former sur la machine à tricoter (2) de manière à faire varier l'épaisseur de fil (d, d') de la mèche étirée (4b) sur sa longueur en modifiant la vitesse relative entre la paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53),
    de manière à amener la mèche étirée (4b) sortant du banc d'étirage (5) à la filière (6) et de manière à la consolider par ladite filière par apport d'air sous pression, puis
    de manière à amener la mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) à la machine à tricoter (2) directement ou par l'intermédiaire d'au moins un moyen de transport ou de serrage, caractérisé en ce que,
    par la commande de la vitesse de rotation d'au moins un rouleau entraîné de la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) du banc d'étirage (5), la vitesse d'amenée de mèche (V3) de la mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) à la machine à tricoter (2) est réglée en fonction des tailles de mailles à tricoter par la machine à tricoter (2).
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, plus la taille des mailles à tricoter par la machine à tricoter (2) est grande, plus la vitesse relative entre la paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est faible et plus la vitesse de rotation d'au moins un rouleau entraîné de la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est élevée, et plus la taille des mailles à tricoter par la machine à tricoter (2) est petite, plus la vitesse relative entre la paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est élevée et plus la vitesse de rotation d'au moins un rouleau entraîné de la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est faible.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que la vitesse relative entre la paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est réglée de manière inversement proportionnelle à la taille des mailles à tricoter par la machine à tricoter (2) et la vitesse de rotation d'au moins un rouleau entraîné de la paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) est réglée de manière directement proportionnelle à la taille des mailles.
  4. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) de la machine à tricoter (2) est amenée avec une tension de fil constante.
  5. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins un fil auxiliaire (22, 25) est amené à l'unité d'étirage (5), dans lequel une vitesse d'amenée de fil auxiliaire au banc d'étirage (5) est commandée en fonction de la taille des mailles du tricot à former sur la machine à tricoter (2) et/ou en fonction des propriétés d'étirement du fil auxiliaire (22, 25).
  6. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que plusieurs mèches étirées et consolidées (4d) sont formées sur des unités d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) séparées et sont amenées par ces systèmes de tricotage séparés vers la machine à tricoter (2), les unités d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) étant commandées et exploitées indépendamment l'une de l'autre.
  7. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que plusieurs unités d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) sont combinées pour former un module et sont commandées conjointement de manière électronique.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce qu'un système de tricotage de la machine à tricoter (2) est alimenté par au moins deux des unités d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) comportant une mèche étirée et consolidée (4d).
  9. Dispositif (1, 1') de fabrication d'un tricot, comportant au moins une machine à tricoter (2), au moins une unité d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) disposée en amont de la machine à tricoter (2) dans une direction de transport de mèche (A), laquelle unité d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche comporte au moins un banc d'étirage (5) comprenant au moins deux paires de rouleaux d'étirage (51, 52, 53) disposées successivement dans la direction de transport de mèche (A), et au moins une filière (6) disposée en aval du banc d'étirage (5) dans la direction de transport de mèche (A), au moins un rouleau entraîné d'une paire de rouleaux d'entrée (51) et au moins un rouleau entraîné d'une paire de rouleaux de sortie (53) du banc d'étirage (5) étant accouplés à au moins un système d'entraînement (8, 8', 8") qui est accouplé à une commande de motif (9) de la machine à tricoter (2),
    caractérisé en ce que
    la machine à tricoter (2) comporte un dispositif de réglage de la profondeur d'enfouissement (91) accouplé à la commande de motif (9) de la machine à tricoter (2) et à l'au moins un système d'entraînement (8") d'au moins un rouleau entraîné d'une paire de rouleaux de sortie (53).
  10. Appareil selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif (1, 1') comprend au moins un dispositif de mesure de tension de fil (41) permettant de déterminer une tension de fil d'une mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) sortant de l'unité d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10).
  11. Dispositif selon la revendication 9 ou 10, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif (1, 1') comporte au moins un dispositif d'amenée de fil auxiliaire (220, 210) relié au banc d'étirage (5) et pouvant être commandé par la commande de motif (9) de la machine à tricoter (2) et/ou en fonction des propriétés d'étirement d'un fil auxiliaire (22, 25) à amener au banc d'étirage (5).
  12. Dispositif selon au moins l'une des revendications 9 à 11, caractérisé en ce que respectivement au moins deux unités d'étirage et de consolidation de mèche (10) séparées, indépendantes l'une de l'autre du point de vue de la technique de commande, sont associées aux systèmes de tricotage de la machine à tricoter (2).
  13. Dispositif selon au moins l'une des revendications 9 à 12, caractérisé en ce que plusieurs des unités d'étirage et de consolidation (10) sont combinées pour former un module et accouplées du point de vue de la technique de commande.
  14. Tricot constitué d'une mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) ayant une épaisseur de fil variant sur sa longueur, caractérisé en ce que l'épaisseur de fil (d, d') de la mèche étirée et consolidée (4d) est formée en fonction de la taille des mailles respective du tricot, l'épaisseur de fil (d') augmentant conjointement avec l'augmentation de la taille des mailles, et l'épaisseur de fil (d) diminuant conjointement avec la diminution de la taille des mailles.
  15. Tricot selon la revendication 14, caractérisé en ce que le tricot est un tricot circulaire sans couture, dont le diamètre change et dont l'opacité reste constante.
EP18702334.6A 2017-01-27 2018-01-18 Tricot ainsi que procédé et dispositif de fabrication de ce tricot Active EP3408436B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102017101597.3A DE102017101597B4 (de) 2017-01-27 2017-01-27 Verfahren zum Herstellen einer Maschenware
PCT/IB2018/050298 WO2018138605A1 (fr) 2017-01-27 2018-01-18 Tricot ainsi que procédé et dispositif de fabrication de ce tricot

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3408436A1 EP3408436A1 (fr) 2018-12-05
EP3408436B1 true EP3408436B1 (fr) 2020-03-11

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ID=61094557

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18702334.6A Active EP3408436B1 (fr) 2017-01-27 2018-01-18 Tricot ainsi que procédé et dispositif de fabrication de ce tricot

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US20190390378A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3408436B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2020505526A (fr)
KR (1) KR20190107134A (fr)
CN (1) CN110249086A (fr)
DE (1) DE102017101597B4 (fr)
TW (1) TW201839197A (fr)
WO (1) WO2018138605A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DD51957A (fr)
NL132929C (fr) 1961-02-18 1900-01-01
LU50788A1 (fr) 1965-04-08 1966-09-29
US3449899A (en) 1968-03-01 1969-06-17 Electro Matic Corp Variable count and slubbing apparatus and method
DE102006037714A1 (de) * 2006-08-07 2008-02-14 Wilhelm Stahlecker Gmbh Vorrichtung zum Herstellen einer Maschenware
DE102011053396B3 (de) 2011-09-08 2012-08-23 Terrot Gmbh Vorrichtung und Verfahren zur Herstellung von Maschenware
EP3031967B1 (fr) 2014-12-11 2019-02-27 SIPRA Patententwicklungs- und Beteiligungsgesellschaft mbH Machine et procédé de fabrication de produits maillés
DE102015110980A1 (de) 2015-07-07 2017-01-12 Rieter Ingolstadt Gmbh Streckwerk mit mehreren Faserbandführungen

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102017101597B4 (de) 2019-09-26
TW201839197A (zh) 2018-11-01
US20190390378A1 (en) 2019-12-26
DE102017101597A1 (de) 2018-08-02
CN110249086A (zh) 2019-09-17
JP2020505526A (ja) 2020-02-20
KR20190107134A (ko) 2019-09-18
WO2018138605A1 (fr) 2018-08-02
EP3408436A1 (fr) 2018-12-05

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