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EP2770974A2 - Préparations cosmétiques capillaires comprenant du stéarate de polyglycérile-10 - Google Patents

Préparations cosmétiques capillaires comprenant du stéarate de polyglycérile-10

Info

Publication number
EP2770974A2
EP2770974A2 EP12725455.5A EP12725455A EP2770974A2 EP 2770974 A2 EP2770974 A2 EP 2770974A2 EP 12725455 A EP12725455 A EP 12725455A EP 2770974 A2 EP2770974 A2 EP 2770974A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stearate
polyglyceryl
preparation
preparations
emulsifiers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP12725455.5A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Nathalie Sors
Julia Gerjets
Doreen Gutzke
Robert Klauck
Manuela Köhler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2770974A2 publication Critical patent/EP2770974A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair cosmetic preparations comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate
  • the invention includes cosmetic or dermatological hair care and
  • Styling formulations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate are advantageously free of polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
  • Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
  • hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil.
  • Emulsions for their formation and stabilization generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • Hair cosmetics for hair cleansing are also referred to as shampoos.
  • they contain anionic surfactants, more preferably in amounts of 4 to 15 wt .-%.
  • Hair cosmetic products for hair care are called conditioners.
  • conditioners These are not shampoos and contain cationic surfactants, preferably at a content of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. It is further preferred if they additionally contain film formers.
  • Hair rinses are used for care after cleansing the hair. They are usually based on cationic surfactants like
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or amidoamines and fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl and / or stearyl alcohol produced.
  • Shampoos are primarily used to clean the hair, hair conditioners to improve combing.
  • hair dyes are among the hair cosmetic preparations and may be directing temporary, direct semi-permanent or permanent hair dye. Furthermore, styling products in the form of emulsions (pastes, wax) are becoming more and more fashionable.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers are commonly used, which, as is well known, lead to strong, stable emulsion formulations and can often cover a relatively wide sensory range.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers act as penetration enhancers through their PEG units.
  • Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives and their derivatives can make the skin and hair more permeable and thus introduce harmful substances into the body. For this reason, the use of ethoxylated substances in cosmetics Controversially discussed and ethoxylated emulsifiers are therefore not desired by the consumer.
  • Polyethylene glycol-containing (PEG) emulsifiers are decomposed and cause unsightly skin or hair reactions.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate polyglyceryl-10-stearate
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also includes polyglyceryl-10-stearates.
  • PG-10 stearate is only mentioned as part of an aftershave gel. In this preparation, 6 wt.% PG-10 stearate are described in addition to other emulsifiers such as lecithin and PEG 150 distearate (WO 2003082182).
  • JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
  • WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
  • DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
  • DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations as an emulsifier, without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • the invention is a hair cosmetic preparation comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate in a proportion of less than 6 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.1 to 2.8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the preparations do not comprise any ethoxylated emulsifiers, in particular no PEG-40 stearates.
  • the preparations have less than 0.01% by weight of ethoxylated emulsifiers, in particular no ethoxylated emulsifiers, polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the formulations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus fulfill the desire for well-tolerated, mild products without compromising stability.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • O / W emulsion preparations 46, 48, 49 and 50 consisting of wherein the numerical values represent parts by weight based on the total mass of the preparations.
  • the hair cosmetic preparations prepared with less than 6% by weight polyglyceryl-10-stearate are stable for a period of at least 3 years at room temperature and at least 6 months at 40 ° C storage.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • the hair cosmetic preparations advantageously have a small proportion, in particular less than 0.01%, of ethoxylated emulsifiers, polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the hair cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
  • Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol disteatate , Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, isostearyl glyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate sebacate (Isolan GPS), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34), polyoxyethylene stearate, polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride, propylene glycol stearate SE, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester, rapeseed lecithin, sucrose glycerides, Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp. Sorbitan monolaurate (sorbate 20), sorbitan di-citrate, sorbitan butucate,
  • Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
  • Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed.
  • Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement.
  • the lecithins in addition to their structure-forming properties are numerous attributed to functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
  • Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise no parabens, formalin-cleavers, organohalogens, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and tea tree oil, and advantageously also no benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol.
  • DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
  • formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
  • Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
  • perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
  • Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
  • Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
  • Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
  • the hair cosmetic preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Substances for preventing foaming, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanner , Buffers, pH Regulators, Herbal Extracts, Surfactants, Propellants, Powder, Sebum Absorbing Substances, UV Filters, Active Ingredients such as Anti Age, Anti-Cellulite, Anti Acne, Anti-Rosacea, Anti-Neurodermatitis, Antioxidants, Moisturizers, Chelating Agents, Antitraspirantien, bleach and colorants etc, provided that the addition does not hinder the required properties in terms of emulsifier content, PEG-freedom and stability.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably oil-in-water emulsions (O / W).
  • the lipid phase used may preferably be the following oils in the O / W emulsion according to the invention: paraffin liquid, octyldodecanol, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, dicaprylyl ethers, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates.
  • the examples illustrate the use of polyglyceryl-10-stearate for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological hair preparations.
  • Cocamide MEA Comperlan 100 Cognis
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate Polyaldo 10-1-S KFG Lonza
  • Glyceryl Stearate Tegin M Pellets Evonik
  • Phenoxyethanol S & M Phenoxyethanol Schülke & Mayr
  • Citric Acid Citric acid monohydrate
  • Methylparaben Methyl Paraben BP / EP / USP India Organics
  • Phosphoric Acid Puriphos grade 85% BK Giulini chemistry
  • Basic Red 51 Vibracolor Ruby Red Ciba / BASF
  • Basic Yellow 87 Vibracolor Citrus Yellow Ciba / BASF

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques capillaires contenant du stéarate de polyglycéryle-10 et ne contenant avantageusement aucun émulsifiant éthoxylé.
EP12725455.5A 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Préparations cosmétiques capillaires comprenant du stéarate de polyglycérile-10 Ceased EP2770974A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102011077042A DE102011077042A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Haarkosmetische Zubereitungen umfassend Polyglyceryl-10-stearat
PCT/EP2012/060544 WO2012168207A2 (fr) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Préparations cosmétiques capillaires comprenant du stéarate de polyglycérile-10

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2770974A2 true EP2770974A2 (fr) 2014-09-03

Family

ID=46208077

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP12725455.5A Ceased EP2770974A2 (fr) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Préparations cosmétiques capillaires comprenant du stéarate de polyglycérile-10

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2770974A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102011077042A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012168207A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020092237A1 (fr) * 2018-10-29 2020-05-07 Lonza Ltd Composition de nettoyage et de conditionnement des cheveux

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EP0833605A1 (fr) * 1995-06-22 1998-04-08 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Compositions hydro-alcooliques stables
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DE19547679A1 (de) * 1995-12-20 1997-06-26 Wella Ag Haarpflegemulsion
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FR2787326B1 (fr) * 1998-12-17 2001-01-26 Oreal Nanoemulsion a base d'esters gras de glycerol, et ses utilisations dans les domaines cosmetique, dermatologique et/ou ophtalmologique
DE10213957A1 (de) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Vernetzte kosmetische oder pharmazeutische phospholipidhaltige Gele und Emulsionen auf der Basis von ethylenoxidhaltigen oder propylenoxidhaltigen Emulgatoren
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2012168207A3 (fr) 2014-07-31
DE102011077042A1 (de) 2012-12-13
WO2012168207A2 (fr) 2012-12-13

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