CZ20003857A3 - Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and a conditioner, and uses thereof - Google Patents

Description

Cosmetic compositions comprising a copolymer of vinyldimethicone Z dimethicone and a conditioner and use of such compositions

Technical field

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable environment at least one particular conditioner and at least one particular vinyldimethicone (ethylenically unsaturated) / dimethicone copolymer.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION i

There are different degrees of hair sensitivity (as well as damage and brittleness). These phenomena are caused by the influence of atmospheric agents or by mechanical or chemical treatments, of which dyeing, discolouration and / or permanent effects can be mentioned. Such affected or treated hair is often difficult to comb and comb and is not quite fine.

We have already recommended that conditioners, especially cationic polymers or silicones, be added to the compositions to wash or treat keratinous substances (e.g. hair) to facilitate hair combing. The hair will also be softer and more flexible. Unfortunately, the aforementioned cosmetic benefits are also accompanied by certain undesirable cosmetic effects in the case of dry hair. This is especially the weight of the hair (lacking lightness of the hair) and lack of smoothness (uneven hair throughout the length).

In addition, the use of cationic polymers has various disadvantages. Because of their strong affinity for hair, certain of these polymers are deposited on repeated uses and cause undesirable effects from which

These hair drawbacks are still which have a weak texture and a small volume.

more pronounced in fine hair,

In short, today's cosmetic compositions containing conditioners do not fully satisfy the requirements.

Object of the invention

Based on significant investigations, the Applicant has now discovered that following the introduction of one of the silicone copolymers described below with a viscosity value between 10 ⁶ and 100. 10 ⁶ cP in said conditioner-based (especially capillary) blends, the major problems associated with using such mixtures. It is especially the weight of the hair (static touch during repeated use), lack of shine and hair softness. However, other advantageous cosmetic properties of the conditioner-based compositions can be maintained.

In addition, the compositions prepared according to the invention improve the softness of the skin to which they are applied especially in the form of a foam or shower gel.

The present invention is now proposing novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one silicone copolymer as defined below having a viscosity value of between 10 ⁶ and 100. 10 ⁶ cP, and at least one conditioner which may be:

- synthetic oils,

- animal or vegetable oils,

- fluorinated or perfluorinated oils,

-3- natural or synthetic waxes,

- ceramides with the following formula (I)

R ₃ CHOH - (H-CH ₃ OH), ^H (I)

WHAT

AND

R1 in which:

R 1 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; this radical may be replaced by a hydroxyl group in position or a hydroxyl group in ω position esterified nasycelou or unsaturated fatty acids having carbon number of C ₆ - C _30;

- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical (glycosyl) _n, (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalaktosyl in which n is an integer of 1 to 4 am integer from 1 to 8;

R ₃ denotes a C ₅ -C ₂₆ alkyl chain radical, saturated or unsaturated at position a, which radical may be replaced by one or more C 1 -C ₁₄ alkyl radicals;

provided that in the case of keramides or natural glycoceramides, R ₃ may also denote α-hydroxyalkyl having a carbon number of C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ , wherein the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ahydroxy acid.

Another object of the invention is the use of a silicone copolymer as defined below, having a viscosity value between 10 ⁶ and 100. 10 ⁶ cP, in a composition or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition containing a conditioning agent as defined above.

-4 • · · · · · ·

The various objects of the invention will now be described in detail. The meanings and definitions of the compounds below used in the present invention are applicable to all aspects of the invention.

In the context of this application, conditioner is understood to mean any agent whose task is to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair (such as, in particular, its gentleness and scaling), to further soften the touch and to reduce static electricity.

The silicone copolymer is formed in the presence of a catalyst by an addition reaction of at least:

- (a) one polysiioxane, whose formula (I) is:

Ro

R = Si

R ₂

Ro o — Si

R 'ΐ ²

O-Si-R ₁

Ro (I) in which:

R 1 denotes a group capable of reacting by chain addition; it may be, for example, a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group preferably having C ₂ -C 6 atoms with ethylene unsaturation, in particular vinyl, allyl or hexenyl.

The R ₂ groups may in particular be alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or hydroxyl groups and may additionally contain functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulfates.

Alkyls have, for example, 1 to 20 carbon atoms; cycloalkyls have, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; allyls are primarily phenyls; alkyaryls may have from 7 to 20 carbon atoms.

Especially R ₂ denotes methyl.

-5 · * <• • • 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

999 9999 ··· 999 99 99 η is an integer chosen such that the kinematic viscosity value of the polysiloxane of formula (I) is between 1 and 1.10 ⁶ mm ² / s. The value of n is particularly between 5 and 5000.

(b) and at least one silicone compound containing at least one and at most two groups capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of polysiloxane (a); at least one of compounds of type (a) or (b) comprises an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation.

Compounds of type (b) are another type of polysiloxane of type (a) in which the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane (b) are capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane (a). {

In particular, silicone copolymers are formed by the addition of at least:

- (a) one α, ω-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane and

- (b) one α, ω-dihydrogenpolydimethylsiloxane, in the presence of a hydrosilylate catalyst (eg platinum catalyst).

The dynamic viscosity of the copolymer is usually between 10 ⁶ cP and 100. 10 ⁶ cP and more preferably between 5 10 ⁶ cP and 30. 10 ⁶ cP. It is measured at a temperature of about 25 ° C and a shear of 0.01 Hz at a stress of 1500 Pa.

All dynamic viscosity measurements reported in this application were performed at about 25 ° C on a Carri-Med CSL2-500.

The kinematic viscosity is measured eg at 25 ° C according to ASIM 445 Appendix C.

-6 • 4 4 4 4 4 4 · 44

44 4 «4 · 4 4 44 4 · 4 4 4 4 4 4 ♦ · 4 · 4 · 4 4 • 4 4 · 4444

4444 4444 444 444 44 44

The silicone copolymers of the invention are primarily non-crosslinked.

The silicone copolymer present in the composition of the invention may be in the form of an aqueous emulsion.

By aqueous emulsion is meant an oil-in-water emulsion in which a silicone copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase forming a continuous phase of the emulsion.

This emulsion may be stabilized by conventional emulsifying agents. The silicone droplet or particle size of the silicone emulsion ranges from 10 nm to 50 µm, and more preferably from 0.3 µm to 20 µm.

The particle size is measured by laser granulometry.

The emulsifying system contains hair turgor (tensor) substances which are commonly used in silicone emulsions. These may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric, and mixtures of these may also be used (see below).

The emulsifying system represents 0.5% to 10% of the total weight of the emulsion.

The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is particularly described in application EP-A874017.

Such emulsions are particularly sold under the tradename "DC2 - 1997 cationic emulsion" by DOW CORNING. The emulsion contains one α, ω-divinyldimethycon / α, ω dihydrogen dimethycon copolymer whose dynamic viscosity is around 15.10 ⁶ cP; a cationic emulsifier such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, a hydroxyethylcellulose stabilizer, and water.

-7 * ·

The most preferred concentration of silicone copolymer present is 0.05% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

Conditioners are liquid, semi-solid, or solids (eg, oils, waxes, gums, or gums).

Synthesis oils are primarily polyolefins (polyalkenes), in particular poly-aolefins and in particular:

- polybutenes, whether or not hydrogenated, in particular polyisobutenes, whether or not hydrogenated.

Rather, oligomers of isobutylene having a molecular weight of less than 1000 and a mixture thereof with polyisobutylenes having a molecular weight of more than 1000, more preferably between 1000 and 15000, are used.

As examples of poly-otolefins useful in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the polyisobutenes sold under the tradename "PERMETHYL" 99 A, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A (n = 16) and 106 A (n = 38) by PRESPERSE Inc , or products sold under the trademark "ARLAMOL HD" (n = 3) by ICI (n indicates the degree of polymerization),

- polydecenes, whether or not hydrogenated.

Such products are sold, for example, under the name "ETHYLFLO" by ETHYL CORP. and "ARLAMOL PAO" by ICI.

Preferably, the animal or vegetable fats according to the invention include sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, naphtha oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glyceryl tricycapilate or vegetable or animal fats of the formula R ₉ COOR ₁₀ wherein R ₉ is a residue

Higher fatty acids of 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ₁₀ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 3 to 30 carbon atoms (especially alkyl or alkenyl). Among these fats we can mention, for example, Purcellin oil or liquid jojoba wax.

Essential natural or synthetic oils may also be used, such as eucalyptus oil, hybrid oil produced by crossing Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia () (lavender lavender), lavender oil, vetiver oil, litsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil , rosemary oil, camomile oil, savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, cumin oil, orange oil, geranium oil, juniper juniper oil and bergamot oil; |

Waxes are natural (vegetable or animal) or synthetic, solid at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C). They are water-insoluble, oil-soluble and capable of forming a waterproof film.

For the definition of waxes we can mention eg PD. Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industy, Decembre 1983, pages 30-33.

Among the waxes we may mention in particular the wax from the Brazilian palm Copernicia cerifera (camauba), the wax from Euphorbia cerifera (candelila), flax wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite (natural wax); vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or pure flower waxes, such as essential blackcurrant flower wax, marketed by BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax or treated beeswaxes (cerabellina ); other waxes or waxy raw materials useful in the invention are especially marine

-9 waxes, marketed by SOPHIM under number M82, polyethylene waxes or, generally, polyolefin (polyalkene) waxes.

According to the invention, the keramide-type compounds are in particular ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudokeramides and / or neokeramides, natural or artificial, having the general formula (I): -

in which:

- R 1 denotes an alkyl, basic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from a C14-C30 carbon chain fatty acid, which radical may be replaced by a hydroxyl group at position a, or group in the ω position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a carbon chain of C ₆ -C _30;

- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) _n, (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalaktosyl wherein n is an integer of 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8;

- R ₃ denotes a C ₅ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, at position a, which radical may be replaced by one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyls;

It is true that in the case of natural ceramides or glykokeramidů R ₃ may also denote a- hydroxy alkyl carbon C ₅ -C _26, wherein the hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified a- hydroxy acid with carbon number _CI6-C3 o.

Preferred ceramides according to the invention are compounds of formula (I) wherein R 1 denotes saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes hydrogen; R ₃ denotes a saturated linear chain C15 radical.

-10 · · t t t t ··· · ♦♦ · ··· ··· ·· ♦ ·

Such compounds are, for example: -N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine,

-N - oleoyldihydrosfingosin,

-N- palmitoyldihydrosfingosin,

-N- stearoyldihydrosfíngosin,

-N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.

More preferably, compounds of formula (I) wherein R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids are used; R ₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl radical; and R 3 denotes - CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) i ₂ - CH ₃ . and

By way of illustration, a product composed of mixtures of these compounds, sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES.

Among the keramide compounds which preferably suit the invention, mention may be made, for example:

- 2-N.linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N- behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino-octadecane-1,3-diol,

2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular

- N- stearoylphytosfíngosin,

- 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof.

-11 ·· · · · 4

Fluorinated oils are, for example, perfluoropoly ethers, described in particular in patent application EP-A-486135, and compounds containing fluorine, hydrogen and carbon, which are described in particular in patent application WO 93/11103. The information from these two applications is fully contained in this application as a reference.

The term fluorine, carbon and hydrogen containing compounds refers to compounds whose chemical structure contains a carbon backbone and whose certain hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Fluorinated oils may be fluorocarbons such as fluoroamines such as perfluorotributylamine, perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluoroesters and fluoroethers;

Perfluoropolyetheys are sold, for example, under the trade name FOMBLIN by MONTEFLUOS and KRYTOX by DU PONT.

Among the compounds containing fluorine, hydrogen and carbon, we may also mention the fluoroesters of fatty acids, for example products sold under the trade name NOFABLE FO by NIPPON OIL.

Mixtures of conditioners may, of course, also be used.

The conditioner (s) according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, and in particular from 0.1% to 3% of the total weight of the final mixture.

The compositions prepared according to the invention may additionally preferably contain

At least one inner hair turgor retaining agent is present in an amount of 0.1% to 60%, more preferably 3% to 40%, and more preferably 5% to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

in

The internal turgor retaining agents may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic. Mixtures of these agents may also be used.

In particular, the internal hair turgor retaining agents that can be used in the present invention are the following:

(i) Anionic agent (s) maintaining the internal turgor of the hair *

Their nature is not really critical in the context of the present invention.

Examples of anionic agents (alone or mixtures thereof) useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, salts (especially alkali, especially sodium, ammonium, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates , alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates of monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin (alkene) sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinate alkyl amide; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates. The alkyl or acyl of all these different compounds preferably contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and aiyl denotes preferably phenyl or benzyl. Among the other anionic turgor-retaining agents that may still be used are also fatty acid salts: oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic,

99 Dill oil or hydrogenated dill oil; acyl lactylates whose acyl contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. We can also use a weak anionic internal turgor control agents such alkylDgalaktosid uronické acids and their salts, and polyoxyalkylene alkyl (C ₆ - C 24) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂ 4) aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6 (C24) carboxylic acid amido ether and salts thereof, and especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups and mixtures thereof.

Of the anionic inner turgor retaining agents, we prefer to use the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof according to the invention.

(ii) Non-ionic turgor retaining agent (a):

Nonionic inner hair turgor agents are also known compounds (see in particular "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son edition (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Their nature is not critical in the present invention. These may be (non-exhaustive) alcohols; α-diols; alkylphenols or fatty polyethoxy, polypropoxy or polyglycerol acids having a fatty chain containing e.g. 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may vary in particular from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may vary in particular from 2 to 30. Copolymers may also be mentioned. ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; fatty polyethoxyamides having preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty polyglycerolamides containing an average of 1 to 1 glycerol groups and in particular

1.5 to 4; fatty polyethoxyamines having preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sorbitan fatty acid oxyethylene esters of 2 to 30

-14 φ • φ φ φ φ φ φ * φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ mol moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; alkylpolyglycosides; N-alkyl glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as e.g. oxides of alkyl (C ₀ - CI4) amines or oxides of N acylaminopropylmorfolinu. Alkyl polyglycosides are nonionic agents that are particularly useful in the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric Reagent (a) maintaining the internal turgor

In particular, the amphoteric internal turgor retaining agents of a non-critical nature within the scope of the invention may be (non-exhaustive) derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one anionic a water-soluble group (eg, carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, phosphonate); we can mention an alkyl (C ₈ - C ₂₀₎ betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (Cg- C ₂ o) amidoalkyl (C _C6) alkyl or betaihy (Cg- C ₂ o) amidoalkyl (C Co) sulphobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, products sold under the trade name &quot; MIRANOL &quot; are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354. They have the following structure:

R ₂ - CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ - N (R ₃ ) (R 4) (CH ₂ COO-) (2) wherein: R ₂ denotes the hydrocarbon residue alkyl derived from R ₂ - COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, the hydrocarbon residue heptyl , nonyl or undecyl, R ₃ denotes a β-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 denotes a carboxymethyl group;

and

R ₅ - CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ - N (B) (C) (3) in which:

B denotes -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ', C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', z = 1 or 2,

X 'denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom

-15 * 4 44 4

4 4 • 4

44 · 4 4444 • 4 • 4 · 4 4

4 4 4

4 4 4

4 4 4

44

Υ 'denotes - COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH- SO ₃ H

R ₅ denotes the alkyl acids R ₉ -COOH present in copra oil (dried coconut kernels) or in hydrolysed linseed oil; alkyl, especially alkyl having a carbon chain _of C _7, C _9, C _i3, or Cn; alkyl, C ₇ chain and its isoforms; unsaturated chain radical having a C _7th

These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capiyloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylaminopipropiate, Dipodium Caprylamphopiate, Dipodium Caprylamphodipi. As an example, cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name "MIRANOL" C2M by RHONE POULENC.

Preferably, mixtures of agents to maintain hair internal tension, especially mixtures of anionic agents or mixtures of anionic and amphoteric agents or anionic and nonionic agents, are preferably added to the compounds of the present invention. Preferably, a mixture comprising at least one anionic and at least one amphoteric agent is used.

Among the anionic hair turgor retaining agents, preference is given to sodium alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) sulfates, triethanolaminalkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) sulfates or alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) ammonium sulfates; oxyethylenealkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) sodium, ammonium or triethanolaminoxyethylene alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) ether sulfates with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide; sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium α-olefin (C ₁₄ -C ₁₆ ) sulfonate and mixtures thereof:

-16ΦΦ

ΦΦ

ΦΦ ΦΦ • ΦΦ Φ ·

9 9 9

Φ Φ Φ Φ

99

- either with an amphoteric turgor-retaining agent, such as the amino derivatives disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium cocoamphopropionate, which are marketed by RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in an aqueous solution containing 38% active substance and under the name MIRANOL C32;

- or with an amphoteric zwitterionic agent such as alkylbeta, and in particular cocobetaih sold by HENKEL as "DEHYTON AB 30" in an aqueous solution containing 32% active ingredient.

More preferably, the compositions of the invention may additionally comprise at least one cationic turgor-maintaining agent.

I &

These cationic agents may be:

(A) Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) as follows:

(IV) wherein X is an anion from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C ₂ - C ₆₎ sulfates (especially the methylsulfate); phosphates; alkyl- or alkylalkylsulfonates; anions derived from organic acids (acetate or lactate), and

i) the radicals R 1 to R ₃ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, unbranched or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. Aliphatic radicals can be, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, alkyl amide,

Ri r;

.R,

R "

R 4 denotes alkyl, branched or unbranched, containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

The cationic inner turgor retaining agent is preferably a salt such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

ii) the radicals R 1 and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical (linear or branched) of one to four carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Acyclic radicals may contain heteroatoms (especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens). Aliphatic radicals are, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, alkyl amide and hydroxyalkyl containing from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R _{3 and} R t, identical or different, denote a hydrocarbon radical alkyl, straight or branched, containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms; said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function.

R ₃ and R 4 are especially alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) amidoalkyl (C ₂ -C 6), alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) acetate radicals.

The cationic agent is preferably a salt, e.g., stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride.

(B) - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as the following:

X '(V) wherein R ₅ represents an alkenyl or C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical, e.g., derived from tallow fatty acids; R f represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical; R ₇ represents alkyl uhl.řetězcem C _r C _4; R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl with a carbon atom. with .X

N ^{Z /} '' N <

\ _J

CH, -CH ₂ -N (R ₈ ) -CO-R ₅ ++

C 1 -C 4; X is an anion from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates. R 5 and R ₆ preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or C 12 -C 21 alkyl radicals (eg, tallow fatty acid derivatives); R ₇ preferably denotes methyl; R ₈ denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the trade name "REWOQUAT" W75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by WITCO.

C) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) as follows:

^ 10 ^ 12

R_N- (CH ₂₎ 3 -NR ₁₄

R 13 ^R 13 wherein R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms; R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13 and R 11, identical or different, represent hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 alkyl; and X is an anion from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts contain predominantly propane / diammonium dichloride dichloride.

D) - a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester function of the following formula (VII):

2X (c, h ₂ , o) _from —R (VI)

R = C- (OC _n H _2n ) _y -N- (C _p H _{2 p} O) -R ₁₆ , X '(ΥΠ) in which:

-R 15 represents alkyl with carbon. chain C _r and C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals with Uhl. C 1 -C 6;

-19- alkyl love radicals R _{2 q} with C _r C ₂₂ chain, linear or branched,

- R 6 represents - radical o

II

R 18 C saturated or unsaturated - hydrogen atom;

- Ris represents:

- radical o

II r _2T c- hydrogen atom;

R 11, R 19 and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are alkyl with carbon. řetězceAi C ₇ -C ₂ i, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- η, p and r, equal or different, are integers from 2 to 6;

- y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, equal or different, are integers from 0 to 10;

- X ^- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

with the proviso that the sum of x + y + z has a value from 1 to 15, and that when x is 0, then R ₆ denotes R ₂ o, and that when z is 0, then R 6 denotes R 22 ·

In particular, ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which:

R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical;

- x and y are equal to 1;

- z is equal to 0 or 1;

- n, p and r are 2;

- Ri6 shows:

-20- radical no

I ^R I9 ^C_

- C14-C22 methyl, ethyl or alkyl radicals

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R 19 and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are C ₇ -C ₂₁ alkyl chains, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- Ris consists of: _Q

II

RztC- radical

- a hydrogen atom;

t

For example, such compounds are sold under the trade name "DEHYQUART" by HENKEL, "STEPANQUAT" by STEPAN, "NOXAMIUM" by CECA, "REWOQUAT WE 18" by REWO-WITCO.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts we prefer to use: behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or still stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold as "CERAPHYL 70" by VAN DYK, "Quatemium-27" or "Quatemium -83" sold by WITCO.

The cationic turgor-maintaining agent is generally present in concentrations of from 0.1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.5 to 7%, and more preferably from 1 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additive, which may be thickening additives; perfumes; pearlescent agents

effect; preservatives; silicone or non-silicone solar filters; vitamins; provitamins; cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic polymers; proteins; protein hydrolysates; methyl-18-eicanoic acid; hydroxy acids; panthenol; volatile or non - volatile silicones, cyclic or linear or crosslinked, whether or not modified. Any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field which does not affect the properties of the compositions of the invention may also be used.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions of 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. One skilled in the art will simply determine the exact amount of each ingredient according to the nature and function of each ingredient.

The compositions according to the invention may in particular be used for washing or treating keratinous substances, of which mention may be made of skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, skin with hair, and in particular hair.

The compositions of the invention may (or need not) be shampoo compositions for rinsing hair.

The compositions of the invention may be detergents (shampoos, shower gels, bath foams, and may also be disintegrants. In this embodiment, the compositions generally comprise a water-based wash.

The internal turgor retaining agent (s) and washing base forming agent (s) may be, without distinction, any of the anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic agents defined above. They can be used alone or in mixtures.

The amount and quality of the wash base are sufficient to allow the finished composition to foam and / or have the properties of a satisfactory detergent.

Thus, the wash base according to the invention may comprise 4% to 50% by weight, more preferably 6% to 35%, and even more preferably 8% to 25% by weight of the total composition.

A further object of the invention is a method of treating keratin fibers (skin or hair), characterized in that the aforementioned cosmetic composition is applied to the keratin fabric and then optionally washed with water.

The method according to the invention thus allows maintenance of the hairstyle; conditioning, washing or washing or removing make-up of skin, hair or any other keratinous substance.

The compounds prepared according to the invention may also be in the form of mixtures for sustained use; mixtures for breaking the structural bonds of hair; coloring or bleaching mixtures; or also in the form of hair wash compositions; for application before or after dyeing (m), discoloration (m), permanent (s) or tear (m) of the hair structure bonds or between the two stages of permanent or tear-off hair structure bonds.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of a water-based or hydrated alcohol-based hair lotion for the treatment of skin and / or hair.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be in the form of a gel, lotion, cream, emulsion, thickened toilet water or foam, and may be used for skin, nails, eyelashes, lips, and especially hair.

-23- ^: • —Vx ··········· · ·

The compositions may be in a variety of containers, particularly vaporizers, mechanical atomizers and propellant gas containers, which allow the mixture to be sprayed or used as a foam. Individual types of packages are labeled, eg spray, lacquer or hair care foam.

Throughout the text, weight percentages are given.

The invention will now be explained in more detail by way of the following example, which, however, is not in any way exhaustive with respect to the embodiments described.

In the examples, the abbreviation AL replaces the active substance.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

EXAMPLE 1

According to the invention, we have prepared a shampoo composition of the following composition:

- A mixture of myristate, palmitate and myristyl stearate, 0.5 g cetyl and stearyl

- Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP 1,2 g AL from CLARIANT)

- N-oleoyldihydrosfingosin 0.01 g

- Cationic emulsion with 67% content of AL copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane with α-ω vinyl / polydimethylsiloxane groups with α-ω hydrogen groups (DC-1997 from DOWCORNING)

1.36 gAL

-243g »· · · · · ·

- Mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50)

- A solution of methylalkylalkylamidoethylimidazolinium methane sulphate with 75% AL content in propylene glycol (“REWOQUAT W 75 PG” from REWO)

- Lauryldimethiconecopolyalcohol with 91% AL ("Q2-5200" from DOW CORNING)

- Perfume, preservatives

0, 05gAL

0, 23gAL enough. amount

- Water enough to make up to 100 g total

Apply this mixture to washed and dried hair. Leave for about two minutes, then rinse with water.

The hair treated with this shampoo mixture is soft, smooth and easy to comb.

Industrial applicability

The composition prepared according to the invention has advantageous cosmetic effects and helps to completely overcome the major drawbacks associated with the application of similar compositions to keratinous substances. It is especially the weight of the hair (static touch during repeated use), lack of shine and hair softness. The hair thus treated is also easy to comb. However, other advantageous cosmetic properties of the conditioner-based compositions remain.

Claims (19)

PATENT CLAIMS Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically acceptable environment a) at least one conditioner, which may be any of the following compounds: - synthetic oils, - animal or vegetable oils, - fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, - natural or synthetic waxes, - ceramides with the following formula (I) RgCHOH— (fH-CH3OFL, NH AND CO I R1 (I) in which: - R 1 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; this radical may be replaced by a hydroxyl group in position or a hydroxyl group in ω position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having carbon number of C ₆ - C _30; - R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical (glycosyl) _n, (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalaktosyl in which n is an integer of 1 to 4 am integer from 1 to 8; R ₃ denotes a C ₅ -C ₂₆ alkyl chain radical saturated or unsaturated at position a, which radical may be replaced by one or more C 1 -C ₆ alkyl radicals; With the proviso that in the case of keramides or natural glycoceramides, R ₃ may also denote α-hydroxyalkyl having a carbon number of C 15 -C 26, wherein the hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified with a C 16 -C 30 ahydroxy acid, (b) and at least one silicone copolymer having a viscosity of 10 ⁶ to 100. 10 ⁶ cP, which is formed in the presence of a catalyst by an addition reaction of at least: - (a) one polysiloxane whose formula (I) is: r ₂ R-SiR ₂ Ro Ro o — SiRn -O — SiRo R, (I) in which: R 1 denotes a group capable of reacting by chain addition; it may be e.g. a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group preferably with atoms of the C2-C6 ethylenic unsaturation, in particular vinyl, allyl or hexenyl group, R ₂ may represent in particular alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or hydroxyl, and may additionally contain functional groups, such are ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulfates; n is an integer selected such that the kinematic viscosity of the polysiloxane of formula (I) is between 1 and 1.10 ⁶ mm ² / s. (b) and at least one silicone compound containing at least one and at most two groups capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of polysiloxane (a); at least one of compounds of type (a) or (b) comprises an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R ₂ denotes methyl. -273. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound of type (b) is another type of polysiioxane of type (a) in which the R 1 groups of the polysiioxane (Z 2) are capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of the polysiioxane (a). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is formed by the addition of at least: - (a) one α, ω-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane and - (b) one α, ω-dihydrogenpolydimethylsiloxane, in the presence of a hydrosilylate catalyst. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone copolymer can be in the form of an aqueous emulsion. t Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the concentration of silicone copolymer present is 0.05% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the synthetic oils are preferably polyolefins (polyalkenes), namely polybutenes (hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated) or polydecenes (hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated). Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the animal or vegetable fats according to the invention preferably comprise sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glyceryl tricycaprylate or vegetable or animal fats of the formula R ₉ COOR 10 in which R ₉ represents a higher C 7-29 fatty acid residue and R ₁₀ represents linear Or a branched hydrocarbon chain of 3 to 30 carbon atoms (especially alkyl or alkenyl); these include essential natural or synthetic oils such as eucalyptus oil, hybrid oil of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolial (lavender), lavender oil, vetiver oil, zlitsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood, rosemary oil, camomile oil, sorghum oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, juniper juniper oil and bergamot oil. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the wax from the Brazilian palm Copernicus cerifera (camauba), the wax from Euphorbia cerifera (candelila), the wax of wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite (natural wax) can be present as the wax. ; further vegetable waxes such as olive wax, shake wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or pure flower waxes, e.g. essential wax of blackcurrant blossoms; or animal waxes such as beeswax, seawaxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin (polyalkene) waxes. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the keramide-type compounds according to the invention are: - 2-N.linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N- behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular - N-stearoylthytosphingosin, -29> ··· ···· · · - 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of the conditioning agent can be 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total composition, more preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one internal hair turgor retaining agent which may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic or a mixture of these agents. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the concentration of internal hair turgor retaining agents present is between 0.1% to 60%, more preferably between 3% to 40% and even more preferably between 5% to 30% of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one cationic turgor-retaining agent. The composition of claim 14, wherein the cationic turgor-maintaining agent is present in concentrations of from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it can also contain at least one additive, which can be thickening additives; perfumes; pearlescent agents; preservatives; silicone or non-silicone solar filters; vitamins; provitamins; cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic polymers; proteins; -30 ♦ · protein hydrolysates methyl-18eicosanoic acid; hydroxy acids; panthenol; volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic or linear or crosslinked, whether or not modified. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may be in the form of a shampoo, a shampoo composition for hair rinsing, a composition for permanent use; mixtures for breaking the structural bonds of hair; dyeing or bleaching compositions, or even in the form of a hair wash composition to be applied between the two stages of permanent or disruptive hair structural bonds, or as a detergent for the human body. Use of a composition as defined in one of the preceding claims for washing and for the treatment of keratinous substances. A method of treating keratin fibers (hair), characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 17 is applied to said keratin substances and then optionally washed with water. Use of a silicone copolymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 in a composition or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a conditioner, which may be the following: - synthetic oils, - animal or vegetable oils, - fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, - natural or synthetic waxes, - ceramides of the following formula (I): R ₃ CHOH h-ch ₂ or ₂ ? NH CO AND R1 -31 · (9 9 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 (((( (I) in which: R 1 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; this radical may be replaced by a hydroxyl group in position or a hydroxyl group in ω position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having carbon number of C ₆ - C _30; - R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical (glycosyl) _n, (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalaktosyl in which n is an integer of 1 to 4 am integer from 1 to 8; t - R ₃ denotes an alkyl radical with a carbon-chain C ₅ - C ₂ 6, saturated or unsaturated in position, the radical may be replaced by one or more alkyl radicals with a chain Ci-C _4; that in the case of natural ceramides or glykokeramidů understood that R ₃ may also denote a- hydroxyalkyl having a carbon number of C ₅ -C 6 _2, wherein the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified ahydroxykyselinou chain C ₆ -C _30th