MXPA98002006A - Nanoemulsion based on non-ionic and non-ionic silicone amplified lipids and used - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to an oil-in-water emulsion whose oil globules have an average size of less than 150 mm, including an amphiphilic lipid phase comprising at least one liquid non-ionic amphiphilic lipid at ambient temperatures of less than 45 ° C. , at least one oil and at least one amino acid silicone as well as its uses in cosmetics or dermofarmac

Description

NANOEMULSION BASED ON NON-IONIC ANTIFILIUM LIPIDS AND AMINATED SILICONES AND UTILIZATIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion whose oil globules have an average size of less than 150 nm and include at least one oil, at least one aminated silicone and an amphiphilic lipid phase based on amphiphilic lipids no- ionic liquids at an ambient temperature below 45 ° C as well as their use in topical application, particularly in cosmetics and dermopharmacy.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION According to the invention, nanoemulsions are referred to as emulsions whose oil globules have an average size of less than 150 nm (nanometers). Oil-in-water emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermopharmacy, particularly for the preparation of products REF: 027006 cosmetics such as lotions, tonics, serums, odor waters. However, the presence of important concentrations of vegetable, animal or mineral oils in compositions makes their formulation difficult. In fact, the compositions are generally unstable when stored and the cosmetic properties are insufficient. In particular, the application of such compositions on the hair produces a fatty touch, a clarification difficulty. In addition, dry hair has no volume and has a charged feel. Nanoemulsions comprising an amphiphilic lipid phase consisting of phospholipids, a cationic lipid, water are known in the state of the art. and a hydrophobic solar filter. They are obtained by a high pressure homogenization process. These emulsions have the disadvantage of being unstable when stored at the traditional temperatures of conservation namely between 0 and 45 ° C. They lead to yellow compositions and produce rancid odors that develop after a few days of storage. In addition, these emulsions do not provide good cosmetic properties. They are described in the magazine "DCI" of April 1996, pages 46-48. The applicant company has discovered, unexpectedly, new emulsions whose oil globules 5_ have an average size of less than 150 nm, stable when stored between 0 and 45 ° C after at least one month. The emulsions according to the invention are prepared at temperatures between 20 and 45 ° C and are compatible with * thermosensitive active agents. They can contain significant amounts of oil. They may particularly contain significant amounts of perfume and improve remanence. They also favor the penetration of the active agents in the superficial layers of the skin and the deposit of active agent on keratinous fibers such as hair. The hair treated with these emulsions are smooth, shiny without having a touch or a greasy appearance, they are easily untangled, they are soft and light.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to oil-in-water emulsions comprising an oily phase _5 dispersed in an aqueous phase with oil globules whose average size is less than 150 nm, characterized in that they comprise at least one oil, less an aminated silicone and an amphiphilic lipid phase which comprises at least one non-ionic or liquid amphiphilic lipid at an ambient temperature below 45 ° C, and because the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase to the amount of amphiphilic lipid phase is between 2 and 10, preferably 2 to 8 and more particularly 2 to 6. The non-ionic amphiphilic lipids of the invention are preferably chosen from silicone surfactants and esters of at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 units of 0 ethylene oxide, sorbitan, glycerol including 2 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerols which include from 2 to 15 glycerol units and at least one fatty acid comprising at least one Cs-C22 alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched. It is also possible to use the mixtures of the compounds indicated above. The silicone surfactants which can be used according to the invention are silicone compounds which include at least one oxyethylenated chain -OCH2CH2- and / or oxypropylene-OCH2CH2CH2-. As surfactants * silicone that can be used according to this The invention may be cited as described in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744. Preferably, the silicone surfactant used according to the present invention is a compound of formula (I): twenty in which: Rif R2 / R3r independently from each other, represent a C? -C6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) X- (OCH2CH2) y- (OCH2CH2CH2) z-OR4, at least one radical R1 f R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the condition that A and B are not equal to zero at the same # weather; 10 X is an integer that ranges from 1 to 6; and is an integer that ranges between 1 and 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the radical Alkyl is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Mention may be made, by way of example of silicone surfactants of formula (I), of the compounds of formula (II): (CH 3) 3 SiO - [(CH 3) 2 SiO] A - (CH 3 SiO) B - Si (CH 3) 3 (II) (CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer that ranges integer 2 and 10, and e is an integer ranging from 10 to 20. It can also be cited as an example of silicone surfactants of formula (I), the compounds of formula (III): HO - (OCH2CH2) and- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2S0] A. - (CH2) 3 - (OCH2CH2) and - OH (lll) wherein 'ey are each independently of one another an integer ranging from 10 to 20. The compounds marketed by the Dow Corning Company under the designations DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2 can be used as compounds of the invention. -5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein respectively A is approximately 22, B is approximately 2 e and is approximately 12; A is approximately 103, B is approximately 10 e and is approximately 12; A is approximately 27, B is approximately 3 and is approximately 12. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is approximately 15 and is approximately 13. Among non-ionic amphiphilic lipids, they may be more particularly cited, by way of example: B the polyethylene glycol isostearate (having approximately 8 ethylene glycol units) of molecular weight approximately 400, B the diglyceryl isostearate, B the polyglycerol laurate comprising approximately 10 units of glycerol, B the sorbitan oleate, B the sorbitan isostearate, B the a-butylglucoside cocoate or the a-butylglucoside caprate.

According to an essential characteristic of the compositions according to the invention, the emulsions contain at least one aminated silicone. In all that follows or above, is meant by silicone or polysiloxane, in accordance with the general acceptance, any polymer or oligomer organosiliciado linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked, variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond = Si-0-Si =), the hydrocarbon radicals being optionally substituted directly linked by means of a carbon atom on the indicated silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C 1 -C 10 and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl radicals; other types of radicals likely to be linked either directly, or by means of a hydrocarbon radical, to the siloxane chain are particularly hydrogen, halogens, and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene radicals (or polyethers) and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, hydroxyl or hydroalkyl radicals, amide groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl radicals, amphoteric or betaine groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates, sulfosuccinates, thiosulfates, phosphates and sulphates, this list not being well understood in any limiting way (silicones called "organomodicated"). According to the invention, any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group is designated by aminated silicone. You can thus quote: (a) the polysiloxanes named in the CTFA dictionary "amodimethicone" and which corresponds to the formula: * in which x 'e and' are integers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that the indicated weight average molecular weight is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000; 15 (b) the aminated silicones that respond to the formula: R'aG3.a-Si (OS¡G2) n- (OSiGbR'2.b) m-0-SiG3, -R '(V) Wherein: G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or C? -C8 alkyl, for example methyl, a designates the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, b designates 0 or 1, and particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) which can vary particularly from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 a 149 and m may designate a number from 1 to 2000, and particularly from 1 to 10; R 'is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -NR "-CH2-CH2-N '(R") 2 -N (R ") 2 -NT (R") 3 A "-NHe (R") 2A "-NH2T (R") A "-N ( R ") - CH2-CH2-NTR" H2A " in which R "can designate hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and A 'represents a halogenide ion such as for example fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine. A product corresponding to this definition is the silicone called "trimethylsilyllamodimethicone" that responds to the formula: (CHX, in which n and m have the meanings given above (see formula V).

Such polymers are described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-95238. (c) the aminated silicones that respond to the formula: wherein R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl, or C 2 -C 8 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical of Ci-C-is or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical of Ci-Ciß, for example from Ci-Cs joined to the Si by a SiC link; f OX is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate ...); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. Such aminated silicones are more particularly described in US Pat. No. 4,185,087. 10 A silicone that enters this class is the silicone marketed by the Union Carbide Company under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". (d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of the formula: 2X twenty in which # R? , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical of C? -C? 8, an alkenyl radical of C2-C? 8 or a cycle comprising 5 carbon atoms. 5_ or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, particularly a C? -C? 8 alkylene radical or a C? -C? Divalent alkyleneoxy radical, for example C? -C? 8 attached to the • If by a SiC link; R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical of C? -C? 8, a C2-C? 8 alkenyl radical, a radical -R6-NHC0R7; X- is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate ...); r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular of 5 to 100; These silicones are described, for example, in the application EP-A-0530974. The silicones that fall into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT # under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474. According to the invention, aminated silicones can be present in the form of oil, of aqueous solutions, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, in the form of dispersion or emulsion. A particularly interesting embodiment is its use in the form of emulsions in # particular in the form of microemulsions or 10 nanoemulsions. For example, the product marketed under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929" of the Dow Corning Company can be used, which comprises, in addition to the amodi ethicone, a cationic surface agent derived from the tallow fatty acids Tallowtrimonium (CTFA), in association with a non-ionic surface agent known under the name "Nonoxynol 10". It is also possible to use, for example, product marketed under the name "Emulsion Cationic DC 939"from the Dow Corning Company comprising, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surface agent the trimethyl cetyl ammonium chloride in association with a nonionic surface agent trideceth-12 Another commercial product usable according to the invention is the product marketed under the designation "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the Dow Corning Company comprising in combination the trimethylsilylmethone of formula (IV), a nonionic surface agent of the formula: C 8 H 7-C 6 H 4 - (OCH 2 CH 2) n 0H where n = 40 also called octoxynol-40, another nonionic surface agent of the formula: C? 2H25- (0CH2-CH2) n-0H where n = 6. Also called isolaureth-6, and glycol. Amine silicone is present at a concentration comprised between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight and more particularly between 0.3 and 3% by weight, a particular form of emulsion according to the invention, it is characterized in that the amphiphilic lipid phase further comprises one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids. The ionic amphiphilic lipids used in the emulsions of the invention are chosen from the group consisting of the anionic lipids, the amphoteric lipids and preferably the cationic lipids. Anionic amphiphilic lipids are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of: - the alkali metal salts of dicetyl- and dimyristylphosphate; B the alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate; B the alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate; B the lipoamino acids such as the mono and disodic acylglutamates; B the sodium salts of the phosphatidic acid; B the phospholipids; B the alkylsulfonic derivatives such as those of the formula: R-CH-CO-0- (CH2-CH2-CO) -CH3 S03M wherein R represents C? 6-C22 alkyl radicals, in particular the radicals C16H33 and C? 8H37, taken as a mixture or separately and M is an alkali metal such as sodium.

The cationic amphiphilic lipids used in the emulsions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts: Cutaneous ammonium salts are, for example: B which represent the following general formula (VIII): In which the radicals Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can include heteroatoms such as particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, alkyl (C2-C22) amido (C2-C6) alkyl, alkyl (C12-C22) acetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals, includes about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C2-Ce) sulfates, alkyl-0-alkylaryl sulfonates; B the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium, for example that of the following formula (IX): fifteen * wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms for example, derivatives of tallow fatty acids, R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of C? -C or an alkenyl radical or alkyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R represents a Cι d alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ~ C alkyl radical, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl-O-alkylarylsulfonates . Preferably, R5 and Re designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from the fatty acids of tallow, R7 denotes methyl, R8 denotes hydrogen. A product of this type is, for example, sold under the name "REWOQUAT W 75" by the company REWO, B the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (X): ++ Rq- R "14 2X (X) wherein Rg designates an aliphatic radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, Rio, R11, R? 2, R13 and Ri4f identical or different are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. carbon, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. These quaternary diammonium salts comprise, in particular, propanosebo diamonium dichloride. B the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

The quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which can be used according to the invention are, for example, those of formula (XI) below: Rl - X- (Xl) wherein: B R15 is selected from the Ci-Cß alkyl radicals and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl Cl-Cß radicals; • ^ Laugh is chosen from: or II the radical R? 9 - C - B the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals C or C 2 -C 22, B the hydrogen atom, W B R 18 is chosen from: 10 O II B the radical R 2? B the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C? -C6 hydrocarbon radicals R22, the hydrogen atom, -Rr ?, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals C7-C2 ?, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; 20 n, p and r, identical or different, are integers that are worth 2 to 6; B and is an integer that is worth 1 to 10; B x and z, identical or different, are integers that are worth 0 to 10; B X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum of x + y + 5_ z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R? 6 designates R2o and that when z is equal to 0 then Ri8 designates R22 > * The R15 alkyl radicals may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably R15 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum of x + y + x is from 1 to 15 10. When Ri 6 is a hydrocarbon radical R 2, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When Ris is a hydrocarbon R22 radical, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, Rn, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of Cn-C2 ?, and more particularly between the linear or branched alkyl and alkenyl radicals of Cu-C2 ?. , saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and Z, identical or different, 5 are worth 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

* The anion is preferably a halide (chlorine, bromine or iodine) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methylsulfate. However, it is possible to use the methanesulfonate, the phosphate, the nitrate, the tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with the ammonium of ester function. The anion X- is also more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate. More particularly used are the ammonium salts of formula (XI) in which: B 20 R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, B x and y are equal to 1; B z is equal to 0 or 1; n, p and r are equal to 2; Laugh is chosen from: Or 11 the radical R19- c " the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon radicals C? 4- C22 * the hydrogen atom; 10 -Ri8 is chosen from: OR II; 1 radical R2? ~ C ~ 15 the hydrogen atom; Rp, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C? 3-C? 7 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched C13-C1-7 alkyl and alkenyl radicals , saturated or unsaturated.

* Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (XI), such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium. and its mixtures. The The acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, the latter can be identical or different. 15 These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanol, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine and fatty acids from mixtures of fatty acids of origin vegetable or animal or by transesterification of its methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization with the aid of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferred methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate. , the glycol or glycerol corhydrin. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT, by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAL WE 18 by the company * REWO ITCO. The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono, di and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, they can be used for example the mixture containing from 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methylsulfate, from 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methylsulfate and from 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium methylsulfate, having radicals acyl of 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from palm oil optionally partially hydrogenated.

The ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 can also be used. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium chloretyltrimethylammonium chlorides, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the VAN DYK Company. According to the invention, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is the most particularly preferred quaternary ammonium salt. The amphiphilic ionic lipids are present in the emulsions of the invention, preferably in concentrations ranging from 0 to 60% by weight and more particularly between 10 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the lipid phase anfifila.

Advantageously, the amphiphilic ionic lipids are present in the emulsions of the invention, at concentrations ranging from 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5 and 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsions according to the invention include an amount of oil that preferably ranges from % by 5 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion and more particularly from 8 to 30% by weight. The oils that can be used in the emulsions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: B the animal or vegetable oils formed by fatty acid esters and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower oils , corn, soya, avocado, jojoba, pumpkin, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, or vegetable or animal oils of formula R9COOR10 in which Rg represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and Rio represents a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain * containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms in particular alkyl or alkenyl, for example, Purcellin oil or the liquid wax of jojoba; 5 B natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, oils of eucalyptus, lavender, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, of cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, 10 orange, geraniol, juniper and bergamot; B hydrocarbons, such as branched or unbranched hexadecane and paraffin oil; B halogenated carbides, particularly fluorocarbons such as fluoramines for example perfluorotributylamine, fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example perfluorodecahydro naphthalene, fluorescers and fluoreteres; B esters of mineral acid and of an alcohol; B ethers and polyethers; B non-aminated silicones mixed with at least one of the oils defined above, for example decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

The emulsions according to the present invention may contain additives to improve, if necessary, the transparency of the formulation. These additives are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: B lower C? -C8 alcohols such as ethanol; B the glycols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-bitulen glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols including 4 to 16 ethylene oxide units and preferably 8 to 12.

The additives such as those mentioned above are present in the emulsions of the invention in concentrations ranging, preferably, between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Furthermore, the use of the alcohols, as defined above, at concentrations greater than or equal to 5% by weight and preferably greater than 15% by weight, makes it possible to obtain emulsions without a preservative.

The emulsions of the invention may contain water-soluble or liposoluble active agents, which have a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical activity. The fat-soluble active agents are found in the oily globules of the emulsion, while the water-soluble active agents are found in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. Mention may be made, by way of examples of active agent, of vitamins such as vitamin E and its derivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, humectants, sunscreens siliconized or not, surfactants, preserving agents, sequestering agents, softeners, perfumes, colorants, viscosity modifying agents, foam modifiers, foam stabilizers, pearlizing agents, pigments, moisturizing agents, antipyretic agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, proteins, silicones, ceramides, pseudoceramides, linear or branched chain fatty acids C16- C40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, thickeners, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, particularly cationic polymers and perfumes. Among the thickeners which can be used, mention may be made of cellulose derivatives such as hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, fatty alcohols such as stearyl, cetyl, behenic alcohols, algae derivatives such as satiagum, natural gums such as adragante and synthetic polymers such as mixtures of polycarboxyvinyl acids marketed under the name CARBOPOL by the Company GOODRICH and the mixture of acrylate copolymers of Na / acrylamide marketed under the name HOSTACERIN PN 73 by the Company HOECHST. The oil globules of the emulsions of the invention preferably have an average size ranging between 30 and 150 nm, more preferably between 40 and 100 nm and even more particularly between 50 and 80 nm. The emulsions of the invention can be obtained by a process characterized in that the aqueous phase, the oily phase and the amphiphilic lipids are mixed, under vigorous stirring at an ambient temperature lower than 45 ° C and then because a homogenization is carried out high pressure at a pressure greater than 108 Pa and preferably ranging from 12.107 to 18.107 Pa. A method of this type allows to perform, at room temperature, nanoemulsions compatible with thermosensitive active compounds, and which may contain significant amounts of oils and particularly perfumes that include fatty bodies, without denaturing them. Another object of the invention consists in a composition for topical use such as a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it is constituted by an emulsion as defined above or because it comprises said ßf emulsion. The invention relates more particularly to hair compositions. The compositions according to the invention can be used for washing and cleaning keratin materials such as hair and skin. The compositions can, for example, be used for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin. The compositions of the invention can more particularly be presented in the form of a shampoo, for after washing with shampoo for rinsing or not, for compositions for perming, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or even in the form of compositions to be applied before or after a coloring, a discoloration, a permanent or a straightening or even between the two stages of a permanent or a straightening. The compositions may also be marking lotions, lotions for brush-marking, fixing compositions (lacquers) and styling compositions such as for example gels, or foams. The lotions can be conditioned in various forms, particularly in vaporizers, sprays or in aerosol containers in order to ensure an application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions can also be makeup compositions such as foundation makeup, colored day creams, masks, cheek and eye makeup, lipsticks, nail polish. When the composition according to the invention is conditioned in an aerosol form in order to obtain a lacquer or an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant agent which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons and their mixtures . It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethylether, nitrogen or compressed air as the propellant. Another object of the invention is the use of emulsions such as those defined above as a base for treatment and / or make-up and / or make-up products for the skin and / or the face and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or mucous membranes (e.g. lips), such as lotions, serums, milks, creams, odor waters. Finally, the invention relates to a non-therapeutic skin treatment process, of the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes or scalp, characterized by the fact that it is applied to the skin, hair, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes or on the scalp an emulsion or a composition such as defined above. The following examples will allow a better understanding of the invention, without, however, presenting a limiting character.

EXAMPLES For examples 1 and 7, the following operating mode is used: 5 The ingredients are mixed with the aid of a turbine homogenizer and then homogenized with the aid of a high pressure homogenizer of the Soavi-Niro type at a pressure of approximately 1200. bars, in several passes (4 to 8) keeping the temperature of the product below about 35 ° C.

EXAMPLE 1 : A composition was prepared after a shampooing with the following composition: # B polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) marketed by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 monoisostearate BIO 4.5 g behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 1.6 gMA B avocado oil 15 g amodimethicone in emulsion marketed under the name DC2-8902 by the company DOW CORNING 1.75 5 gMA B absolute ethanol 15 g B glycerin 5 g B demineralized water csp 100 g * An emulsion was obtained whose size of the oil globules is about 95 nm. This composition was applied on wet hair. After rinsing with water, the hair treated is soft and smooth. 15 EXAMPLE 2 A composition for after shampooing with the following composition was prepared: polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) commercialized by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 onosisostearate BIO 4.5 g B behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (lipid) cationic amphiphilic) 0.8 gMA B avocado oil 20 g B polydimethylsiloxane with a,? -ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3474 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 1.9 gMA • B tocopherol acetate 1 g - absolute ethanol 15 g glycerin 5 g 15 demineralized water csp 100 g An emulsion is obtained whose size of the oil globules is about 79 nm. 20 This composition is applied to wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle.

EXAMPLE 3: A post-shampoo composition with the following composition was prepared: B polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) marketed by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 monoisostearate BIO 4.5 g B behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 0.8gMA B avocado oil 20 g B polydimethylsiloxane with a,? -ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3272 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 1 gMA 1 g tocopherol acetate absolute ethanol 15 g • glycerin 5 g B demineralized water csp 100 g An elution was obtained whose size of the oil globules is about 62 nm. This composition was applied on wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle. 10 EXAMPLE 4: It was prepared after washing with shampoo with the following composition: polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) commercialized by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 monoisostearate BIO 4.5 g B behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 0.8gMA liquid jojoba wax 17 g B polydimethylsiloxane with a,? -ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3272 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 1 gMA B tocopherol acetate 1 g B isohexadecane 3 g absolute ethanol 15 g glycerin 5 g B demineralized water csp 100 g An elution was obtained whose size of the oil globules is approximately 79 nm. This composition was applied on wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle.

* EXAMPLE 5: A post-shampoo composition with the following composition was prepared: B polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) marketed by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 onisoisostearate BIO 4.5 g B behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 1.6 gMA B avocado oil 14 g B trimethylsilylamodimethicone microemulsion marketed under the name SM 2115 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC 1.2 g MA Absolute ethanol 15 g 20 B glycerin 5 g »demineralized water csp 100 g An emulsion was obtained whose size of the oil globules is about 70 nm. 5_ This composition was applied on wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle.

# EXAMPLE 6 10 It was prepared for after shampooing with the following composition: B polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) marketed 15 by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 monoisostearate BIO 4.5 g B Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 0.8gMA 20 5.25 g jojoba liquid wax - avocado oil 5.25 g B polydimethylsiloxane with a,? -ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3272 by 5 the company GOLDSCHMIDT 1 gMA cyclomethicone marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC245 FLUID 3.5 g * B absolute ethanol 15 g B glycerin 5 g demineralized water csp 100 g 15 An emulsion was obtained whose size of the oil globules is approximately 48 nm. This composition was applied on wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle.

EXAMPLE 7: It was prepared after shampooing with the following composition: 5 B polyethylene glycol isostearate (80E) marketed by the company UNICHEMA under the name ESTOL B UCN PEG-400 monoisostearate BIO 4.5 g F 10 B behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic amphiphilic lipid) 1.6 gMA B liquid jojoba wax 20 g fifteen - . 15 - polydimethylsiloxane with a,? -ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3474 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 0.95 gMA B polydimethylsiloxane with α, β-ammonium quaternary groups marketed under the name ABIL QUAT 3272 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 0.5 gMA r • tocopherol acetate 1 g Absolute ethanol 15 g 5_ B glycerin 5 g B demineralized water csp 100 g An emulsion was obtained whose size of the oil globules is about 54 nm. This composition was applied on wet hair. The hair thus treated is soft, smooth and easy to untangle.

It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, it is claims as property what is contained in the following.

Claims (22)

1. - Oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase whose 5 globules of oil have an average size of less than 150 nm, characterized in that it comprises at least one oil, at least one aminated silicone and an amphiphilic lipid phase, which comprises at least one amphiphilic non-ionic lipid lipid at an ambient temperature below 45 ° C, and because the weight ratio of the amount of oily phase to the amount of amphiphilic lipid phase is included between 2 and 10.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid is chosen from silicone surfactants and esters of at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of Polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 units of ethylene oxide, sorbitan, glycerol including from 2 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, polyglycerols including from 2 to 15 units of # glycerol and from at least one acid fatty acid comprising at least one C8-C22 alkyl chain, saturated or non-saturated, linear or branched, and mixtures thereof. 5_

3. Emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is a compound of formula (I): wherein: Ri, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a Ci-Cβ alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) X- (OCH2CH2) y- (OCH2CH2CH2) z-OR4, at least one radical Ri, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; 20 A is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; X is an integer that ranges from 1 to 6; and is an integer that ranges between 1 and 30; z is an integer that ranges from 0 to 5.

4. - Emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is a compound of formula (II): (CH3) 3Si0 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A - (CH3SiO) 8 - Si (CH3) 3 (H) (CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH where A is an integer that ranges between 20 and 105, B is an integer that ranges from 2 to 10 and y is an integer that ranges from 10 to 20.

5. - Emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that a silicone surfactant in a compound of formula (III): * HO - (OCH2CH2) and- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A. - (CH2) 3 - (OCH2CH2) and - OH (lll) where A 'and y are each independently one 5 of the other an integer ranging between 10 and 20.

6. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aminated silicone is selected from: (a) the polysiloxanes referred to in the CTFA dictionary "amodimethicone" and corresponding to the formula: twenty wherein x 'e and' are integers that depend on the molecular weight, generally such that the indicated weight average molecular weight is between 5000 and 500000; (b) the aminated silicones that respond to the formula: R'aG3.a-Si (OS¡G2) n- (OSiGbR'2.b) m-0-S¡G3.a-R'a (V) wherein: G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or C? -C3 alkyl, for example methyl, a designates the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, b designates 0 or 1, and particular 1, m and m are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) which can vary particularly from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and m may designate a number from 1 to 2000, and particularly from 1 to 10; R 'is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -NR "-CH, -CH2-N '(R") 2 -N (R ") 2 -NT (R") 3 A "-NHT (R") 2A "-NH2T (R") A "-N (R ") - CH2-CH2-NTR" H2 A ", In which R "can designate hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and A 'represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluorine, chlorine , bromine or the aminated silicones that responds to the formula * wherein R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1-6 alkyl radical, or C 2 -C 8 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; Rβ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical of C? -C? 8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical of C? -C? 8, for example from Ci-Cβ linked to Si by a SiC bond; Q 'is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate ...); 15 r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. 20 (d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of the formula: 2X wherein R, identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms 10 carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical of Ci-Ciß, a radical alkenyl of C2-C? 8 or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical Ci-Cis or a radical C d-C? 8 divalent alkyleneoxy, for example C?-C8 attached to Si by a SiC bond; R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a 20 C? -C? 8 alkyl radical, a C2-C? 8 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; X- is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate ...); r represents a mean statistical value of 2 to 200 and in 5 particular of 5 to 100;

7. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one ionic amphiphilic lipid.

8. An emulsion according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic lipid is chosen from the group consisting of anionic lipids, amphoteric lipids, cationic lipids. 15 and its mixtures.

9. Emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that the cationic amphiphilic lipid is chosen from the group consisting of the quaternary ammonium salts and the fatty amines.

10. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from the group consisting of: B - the quaternary ammonium salts general formula (VIII) below: 10 wherein the radicals Ri to R, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C2-C6) sulfates, alkyl-o-alkylarylsulfonates; B the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium, B the quaternary diammonium salts of the formula (X): 10 fifteen wherein Rg designates an aliphatic radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, Rio, Ru, R12, Ri3 and R4, identical or different are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. B the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

11. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the oil is chosen from the group consisting of: B animal or vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols or vegetable or animal oils of the formula R9COOR? 0 in which Fg represents the residue d a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms t Rio represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, B the natural essential oils or synthetic; B hydrocarbons; B the halogenated carbides; B the esters of mineral acid and alcohol; B the esters and polyethers; B the non-aminated silicones in admixture with at least one of the oils defined above.

12. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the * ratio by weight of the amount of oily phase on the amphiphilic lipid phase varies from 2 to 8 and preferably from 2 to 6. 5_

13. An emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic lipid is present in concentrations ranging between 0 and 60% by weight with # relation to the total weight of the amphiphilic lipid phase, and 10, preferably 10 to 50% by weight.

14. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic lipid is present in concentrations ranging between 0 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight. weight, and more particularly between 0.5 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

15. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises an oil content ranging between 5 and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.

16. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the said silicone amine is present in a concentration comprised between 0.05 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably between 0 , 1 and 5% by weight.

17. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical active agent, water soluble or liposoluble.

18. - Composition for topical use, characterized in that it is constituted by an emulsion or comprises an emulsion according to any of claims 1 to 17.

19. - Use of an emulsion as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18, such as or in products for treatment and / or washing and / or make-up and / or make-up of the body and / or face and / or of the mucous membranes and / or of the scalp and / or of the hair and / or of the nails and / or of the eyelashes and / or of the eyebrows. 5.

Procedure for the non-therapeutic treatment of the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp. # characterized in that an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 17 or a composition according to claim 18 is applied to the skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp. .

21. Process for the preparation of an emulsion as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed, under vigorous stirring, at an ambient temperature lower than 20 45 ° C then a high pressure homogenization is carried out at a pressure higher than 108 Pa.

22. - Process according to claim 21, characterized in that the pressure varies from 12.107 to 18.107 Pa.