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CN116367820A - Composition for conditioning keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for conditioning keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116367820A
CN116367820A CN202080106875.3A CN202080106875A CN116367820A CN 116367820 A CN116367820 A CN 116367820A CN 202080106875 A CN202080106875 A CN 202080106875A CN 116367820 A CN116367820 A CN 116367820A
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郭远骥
章诗辰
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin

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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

本文提供了用于调理角蛋白材料的组合物,其包含(A)亲脂性改性二氧化硅的球形颗粒;(B)选自水和醇的介质/溶剂,和(C)至少一种包含稳定增稠剂(C‑1)的增稠剂,所述稳定增稠剂(C‑1)选自羧酸聚合物。Provided herein are compositions for conditioning keratinous materials comprising (A) spherical particles of lipophilically modified silica; (B) a medium/solvent selected from water and alcohol, and (C) at least one comprising A thickener of a stable thickener (C-1) selected from carboxylic acid polymers.

Description

Composition for conditioning keratin materials
Technical Field
The present invention relates to compositions for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair together with the scalp. The invention also relates to a method for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair together with the scalp, using the composition according to the invention.
Background
Keratin materials are widely found on human surfaces such as skin, scalp and hair. For a long time, many people have sought a fresh body surface to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Among them, many are particularly concerned with the sticky/greasy feel. Accordingly, various products have been developed to cope with the sticky or greasy feeling of humans.
Among keratin materials on the body surface, the scalp is particularly vulnerable to oils and fats. Various formulations have been developed for use with sticky or greasy scalp, including those provided in separate forms, such as lotions, sprays, and the like, as well as those incorporated into conventional products for use with hair and/or scalp, such as shampoos, leave-in and/or rinse-off conditioners.
Various conditioning compositions have been developed primarily for use with hair, which are generally used to improve or restore the natural luster, shine, smoothness and softness of hair. When used in the context of shampooing, a commonly accepted method of conditioning hair is shampooing, then rinsing the hair, and then applying the conditioner composition, optionally followed by a second rinse.
Thus, there remains a need in the art to develop new compositions for caring for primarily the scalp, especially without a greasy feel.
Disclosure of Invention
Silica is known for use in cosmetics, for example as a conventional filler, or as a matrix for absorbing lake dyes. Derivatives of silica and/or modified silica are also used. However, any effect on (modified) silica to address the greasy state of keratin materials is unknown in the art. Through intensive studies, the present inventors have surprisingly found that by using a specific modified silica in a specific form (in particular modified in terms of both structure and chemical bonds), sebum migration on keratin materials, in particular on the scalp, and thus the greasy feel, can be effectively inhibited.
Accordingly, one subject of the present invention is a leave-on composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:
spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent;
at least one medium/solvent, and
at least one thickener.
The composition according to the invention is particularly useful for conditioning keratin materials, for example, in particular for scalp care. Thus, the compositions of the present invention may be in various forms, e.g., lotions, creams, sprays, etc., for direct application to the scalp, application to the skin, or application to the hair along with the scalp.
Embodiments of the invention
Throughout the specification, including the claims, the term "comprising" is to be understood as synonymous with "including at least one" unless otherwise indicated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout the specification including the claims, embodiments defined by "comprising" and the like should be understood to include preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of …" and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of …".
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," having a meaning conventionally known in the art, such as within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" represents 9% -11% and "about 2%" represents 1.8% -2.2%).
Throughout the specification, including the claims, a "keratin material" according to the present invention is skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are locations which are susceptible to a sticky or greasy feel, such as the scalp or the skin, and/or locations on which a sticky or greasy feel has an effect, such as the hair.
Throughout the specification, including the claims, "care" and the like according to the present invention should be understood to encompass any means of caring for, maintaining or improving the condition of keratin materials, including not only conventional means of caring for keratin materials such as the skin or scalp, but also any means known to be useful for conditioning and/or cleansing keratin materials such as the hair or scalp.
In this application, unless explicitly mentioned otherwise, amounts, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(A) Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent;
(B) At least one medium/solvent selected from water and alcohols; and
(C) At least one thickener comprising a stabilizing thickener (C-1) selected from carboxylic acid polymers.
The present invention thus provides the use of spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica for alleviating the greasy feel of keratin materials on the body surface, in particular the scalp.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica (A)
The composition of the present invention comprises spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a).
According to the present invention, "spherical particles" refer to particles that are spherical or at least approximately spherical, and/or particles that have an aspect ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, for example about 0.95 to 1.05. For example, one skilled in the art can determine whether the particles are spherical based on conventional knowledge. In particular, for a given silica, one of ordinary skill in the art can distinguish spherical shapes from other shapes of plates, rods, powders, bars, irregular shapes, etc., and from amorphous analogs.
According to the present invention, silica needs to be in a "homogeneously dispersed" state. For example, the formation of dispersions, emulsions, solutions, etc. having definitions and/or standards known in the art may represent the achievement of a "uniformly dispersed" state. Nevertheless, it should be appreciated that once one of ordinary skill in the art can determine that a state is significantly different from a "non-uniformly dispersed" state, the state may be considered to substantially satisfy the "uniformly dispersed" state.
According to the invention, "lipophilically modified" silica refers to silica that has been lipophilically modified. According to the invention, lipophilic modification refers to any organic modification capable of hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment of silica. For example, the silica may be formed from a siloxane compound, such as hydroxydimethylsiloxane (orOther silanes, such as silazanes, etc.), by which silanol groups on the silica surface are condensed with silanol groups of the siloxane compound. Among these, usable examples of "lipophilic modified" silica may be silylated silica and dimethylsilylated silica, such as silylated silica, which may be named for example
Figure BDA0004206213430000031
TL-10 is a silylated silica available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION company.
According to the present invention, the spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica may exhibit an oil absorption capacity of 500ml/100g or more, 600ml/100g or more, or even 700ml/100g or more when incorporated into the composition.
The spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, or preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Medium/solvent (B)
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent comprising water and/or an organic medium/solvent for use as component (B). For the purposes of the present invention, component (B) serves as a medium for spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica of component (A) and, if present, other insoluble components, in order to disperse them as homogeneously as possible, and as a solvent for the soluble components, if present.
Water and its preparation method
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise various amounts of water. For low viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of leave-on lotions, relatively large amounts of water may be used. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention is preferably from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, or from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For high viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of leave-on creams, relatively low amounts of water may be used. The high viscosity composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water in a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (I). The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention is preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, or from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic medium/solvent
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic media/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic media/solvents (solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).
Examples of organic media/solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, mono-or dihydric alcohols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexanediol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyhydric alcohol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C 1 -C 4 Alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
When present, the organic medium/solvent is typically present at 0.1 to 40 wt%, and preferably 1 to 30 wt%, or 5 to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Thickening agent (C)
As the leave-on type, it is preferable that the leave-on product be uniformly distributed on the scalp or uniformly distributed on the hair together with the scalp. It is therefore preferred to add at least one thickener (C) to the composition according to the invention in order to adjust the viscosity of the resulting product and to promote a lamellar distribution or formation of a uniform film of the composition on the scalp or hair together with the scalp.
Non-limiting examples of thickeners (C) include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums.
Stable thickener (C-1)
The inventors have surprisingly found that when the thickener (C) comprises a stabilizing thickener (C-1), the stability of the resulting composition, in particular the stability of the leave-on conditioner product, can be unexpectedly increased. Preferably, the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is selected from the group consisting of specific carboxylic acid polymers.
Examples of carboxylic acid polymers include crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbons. The carbon double bonds are derived from polyols. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol (e.g., from lubrisol
Figure BDA0004206213430000051
ULTREZ 10POLYMER)。
The use of a stabilizing thickener (C-1) as carboxylic acid polymer may allow for a relatively low pH of the composition according to the invention.
Without being limited to any known theory, it was found that the amount of stabilizing thickener (C-1) is critical to the stability of the formed composition. Thus, the stabilizing thickener (C-1) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.14 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 3 wt%, or preferably 0.3 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional thickener (C-2)
In addition to stabilizing thickener (C-1), thickener (C) may also contain additional thickeners (C-2), such as those that increase the viscosity of the composition without significantly altering the effectiveness of one or more active ingredients within the composition. In addition, the additional thickener (C-2) may additionally increase the composition stability.
Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers for use as additional thickener (C-2) include nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers, including polyacrylamides, isoparaffins and laureth-7, acrylamides. And substituted multiblock copolymers of acrylamide with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acids.
Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides for use as additional thickener (C-2) include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is alkyl substituted cellulose wherein the hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is then C 10 -C 30 The linear or branched alkyl groups are further modified with ether linkages. These polymers are typically C 10 -C 30 Ethers of straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Other useful polysaccharides include linear scleroglucan comprising (1-3) linked glucose units, wherein each of the three units has (1-6) linked glucose.
Non-limiting examples of gums for use as additional thickener (C-2) include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, pullulan, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
Other examples of polymeric thickeners which may be mentioned for use as additional thickeners (C-2) include vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
The additional thickener (C-2), if present, may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 3 wt%, or preferably 0.1 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Conditioning active agent (D)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one conditioning active (D) which is beneficial for conditioning effects, in particular for leave-on conditioner products useful for keratin materials.
The conditioning active (D) of the present invention may refer to an ingredient that enhances the look and feel of scalp/hair by increasing hair body, softness or luster, or by improving the texture of damaged hair by physical or chemical treatment. Conventional scalp/hair conditioning actives are well suited for the present invention. Such conditioning actives include non-silicone cationic surfactants, silicones, fatty acid esters, and other ingredients known in the art to have desirable hair conditioning properties.
Among them, cationic surfactants are widely used as conditioning agents. The ability of such cationic surfactants to provide conditioning benefits to the hair is due to the hydrophobicity of the alkyl chain and the cationic charge of the polar head group. Examples of known cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds containing at least one long alkyl chain in the molecule. The term "non-silicone cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has no silicone atoms in its structure and is positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the present invention. In the compositions of the present invention, the surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functional groups.
When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, it may be an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and a C1-C30 monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, including an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, or an ester of a C1-C7 dibasic acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
The conditioning actives (D) of the present invention may also be those that provide a cooling and/or refreshing sensation, such as menthol and its derivatives, such as ethyl menthane carboxamide, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol.
The conditioning active (D) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, or preferably from 0.02 to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymer (E)
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic polymer.
The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which groups may form part of the polymer backbone or may be carried by pendant substituents directly attached thereto. Preferably, the composition of the invention may comprise cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannans gums. For the purposes of the present invention, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic cellulose.
Among the cationic polymers, the compositions of the invention comprise cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, as described for example in us patent 4131576, and hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as, in particular, hydroxymethyl cellulose (grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacryloylaminopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium or hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts), hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose, such as, for example, 2-hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, may be mentioned. More particularly, the commercial products meeting this definition are those sold under the name National Starch company
Figure BDA0004206213430000071
L200 and->
Figure BDA0004206213430000072
H100, polyquaternium-10 (hydroxyethyl cellulose-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ether) is sold, for example, by KCI under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000081
The product sold by 400KC, polyquaternium-6 (polydiallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) is for example sold under the name Merquat by Nalco TM 100 polymer, product sold. Among these, particular preference is given to polyquaternium polymers, such as polyquaternium-7, 11, 15, 16, 22, 39, 47, 55, 67 and 76.
The cationic polymer (E) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight, or preferably 0.1 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Solubilizer (F)
Spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) can be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in a water-alcohol system. Thus, the at least one solubilizer (F) is preferably contained in the aqueous phase. For good dispersion purposes, the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof, more preferably a complex of solubilizers.
Examples of useful nonionic surfactants may include esters of polyols and fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e., derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated units, such as C 8 -C 24 Glycerol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; c (C) 8 -C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty acid glycerides which may be mentioned in particular include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl oleate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate), and more particularly polyethylene glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example, uniqema under the name
Figure BDA0004206213430000082
165 glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and Goldschmidt under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000083
Products containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) are sold.
Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose which may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, for example methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, for example methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, fatty acid esters of methyl glucoside, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate); esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular AmercholSpan name
Figure BDA0004206213430000091
SS sold products, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), for example by Amerchol company under the name
Figure BDA0004206213430000092
Products sold as E-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular by Amerchol under the name>
Figure BDA0004206213430000093
SSE-20, and the name +.A. A product sold by Goldschmidt company>
Figure BDA0004206213430000094
PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned may include sucrose palmitate stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). Examples which may be mentioned include ethers containing from 1 to 200, and preferably from 2 to 100, oxyethylene groups, such as the ethers under the CTFA name cetostearyl ether-20 and cetostearyl ether-30, and mixtures thereof.
Sugar ethers which may be mentioned in particular are alkyl polyglucosides, for example decyl glucoside, for example Kao Chemicals under the name
Figure BDA0004206213430000095
10, henkel company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000096
2000 and SEPPIC company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000097
NS 10 sells products; octyl/decyl glucoside, e.g. by SEPPIC company under the name
Figure BDA0004206213430000098
CG 110 or by BASF company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000099
A product sold by GD 70; lauryl glucoside, e.g. Henkel Corp. Under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000101
1200N and->
Figure BDA0004206213430000102
1200 products sold; coco glucosides, such as those sold by Henkel under the name plant 818/UP; cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example by the company SEPPIC under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000103
68. By Goldschmidt under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000104
CG90 and by Henkel corporation under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000105
KE3302 is sold; peanut-based glucosides, e.g. in the form of mixtures of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with peanut-based glucosides, under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000106
202, selling; cocoyl ethyl glucoside, e.g. in the form of a mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35/65), is known by the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206213430000107
82 are sold; and mixtures thereof.
Polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil may be mentioned additionally as examples of useful solubilisers.
The solubilizer (F) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, for example 0.05% to 3%, or 0.1 to 1%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
PH regulator (G)
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pH regulator (G).
Examples of pH adjusting agents include, but are not limited to, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanediol, triethanolamine, triethylamine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, acetic acid, potassium hydroxide, lactic acid, and any combination thereof.
The amount of the pH regulator (G) in the composition according to the invention can be adjusted and determined by the person skilled in the art according to the desired pH value, provided that the amount does not bring about other substantial detrimental effects. For example, particularly when the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is used in a composition of a leave-on conditioner product, the pH adjuster may be present in an amount of from 0.01% to 0.5%, such as from 0.02% to 0.1%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional additives
According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin materials, such as the skin, scalp or hair. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise various ingredients commonly used in compositions for conditioning keratin materials, such as additional surfactants including nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, humectants, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents (anti-seborrhea agents), agents for preventing hair loss and/or promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, acidulants, opacifiers, pearlescers or pearlescers (pearlescent or nacreous agent), antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.
A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication 2004/0170586, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other examples of these additional ingredients can be found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed.2002).
The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Those skilled in the art can make various selections of these additives to prepare a composition having desired properties, such as consistency or texture. In particular, the additive(s) and amounts thereof, if used, are specifically determined according to the particular product/application thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skin care conditioner, etc.
These additives may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Method and use
The composition according to the invention may be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. However, it will be appreciated that the person skilled in the art may choose the preparation method based on his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the components used, e.g. their solubility in the carrier, and the intended application of the composition or kit.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be used for caring keratin materials, in particular the scalp, or the hair together with the scalp. The use may be represented by a method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the invention is preferably used for formulating hair conditioner products, scalp care products or even skin care products. Furthermore, from the detailed discussion above, it should be understood that the compositions according to the present invention, and thus the conditioner product and/or shampoo product, may be free of silicone oil.
The keratin fiber conditioning composition of the present invention can be used in the form of leave-on products and can be formulated into a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, lotions, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
The keratin fibre conditioning composition as described above can be used to condition keratin fibres such as the hair together with the scalp by conventional means, depending on the form of application of the composition.
For example, when used as leave-on conditioning agents after shampooing, the compositions of the present invention may be applied by a method comprising the steps of:
(i) Shampoo; and
(ii) An effective amount of the composition is applied to hair for conditioning the hair without further rinsing the hair.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which illustrate particularly advantageous embodiments.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without, however, limiting the scope.
Examples
The amounts/concentrations of ingredients in the following compositions/formulations are expressed in weight percent relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation.
Materials:
silylated silica: available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION
Figure BDA0004206213430000122
TL-10, spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica;
other materials not described herein are each commercially available.
Example 1
Compositions a and a' as in table 1 and comparative compositions B-F were prepared:
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0004206213430000121
Figure BDA0004206213430000131
Note that: in table 1 above and other tables, "comp" means "composition" and "c.c." means "comparative composition".
The above compositions A-F are prepared according to methods known in the art.
Example 2
The effect of the composition on grease inhibition was determined using a sebum migration test, comprising the steps of:
step 1: the hair samples were rinsed with standard shampoo DOP and with test product according to the known procedure RC-MCI-OIP-003B
Step 2: 100 μl of colored artificial sebum (red) was applied over a selected 3cm area of the top area of the hair sample.
Step 3: the hair samples were hung on an iron stand at 30℃and 50% humidity.
Step 4: images of hair samples were taken at 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours and 24 hours.
Step 5: the total sebum migration area was calculated at each time point using image analysis.
Sebum migration results are provided below:
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0004206213430000141
For the sebum migration test, a smaller sebum migration area means more inhibition of grease. Thus, it is clear that the comparison a' using lipophilic modified silica spherical particles uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent can bring about high grease inhibition, which is reflected by a low sebum migration area. It was observed that even lower sebum migration areas were generated when composition a was used.
Example 3
Compositions a and B were applied daily to the hair and scalp for 3 days in 6 volunteers aged 25-45. The scores for the sticky or greasy feeling after the administration of compositions a and B were given daily with the scores for the sticky or greasy feeling before the administration of compositions a and B as a baseline, and the average differences are shown in table 3.
Volunteers gave a score for a greasy feeling, wherein:
0 represents unchanged;
1 means general improvement;
2 means a significant improvement; and
3 indicates substantially no greasy feel.
The average scores of 6 volunteers were regarded as the immediate status, 24 hours and 48 hours, and the average was calculated. The average score for a total of 3 days is provided in table 3 below.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Figure BDA0004206213430000151
Note that: for convenience, each average score in table 3 is rounded to an integer.
Referring to table 3, the lower the score, the less sticky or greasy feel. Composition a was observed to exhibit a very good and long-term anti-tack or anti-greasy feel.
Example 4
Other properties of the composition are also determined using methods known in the art. The results are provided in table 4 below:
TABLE 4 Table 4
Figure BDA0004206213430000152

Claims (16)

1.一种用于调理角蛋白材料的组合物,其包含:1. A composition for conditioning keratinous materials comprising: (A)均匀分散在介质/溶剂中的亲脂性改性二氧化硅的球形颗粒,(A) Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in medium/solvent, (B)至少一种选自水和醇的介质/溶剂,和(B) at least one medium/solvent selected from water and alcohol, and (C)至少一种增稠剂,其包含选自羧酸聚合物的稳定增稠剂(C-1)。(C) At least one thickener comprising a stable thickener (C-1) selected from carboxylic acid polymers. 2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述亲脂性改性二氧化硅(A)的球形颗粒包含甲硅烷基化的二氧化硅和二甲基甲硅烷基化的二氧化硅。2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica (A) comprise silylated silica and dimethylsilylated silica. 3.根据权利要求1或2所述的组合物,其中相对于所述组合物的总重量,所述亲脂性改性二氧化硅(A)的球形颗粒的存在量为0.01重量%至10重量%、优选0.01重量%至5重量%、优选0.1重量%至3重量%、或优选0.3重量%至1重量%。3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica (A) are present in an amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition %, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, or preferably 0.3% to 1% by weight. 4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述醇选自C2-C10一元醇、C2-C10二醇和含有多于两个羟基官能团的C3-C6多元醇,例如乙醇、(异)丙醇、丁醇、己二醇、新戊二醇、丁二醇、二丙二醇、丙二醇。4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of C2-C10 monohydric alcohols, C2-C10 diols and C3-C6 polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as ethanol, (Iso)propanol, Butanol, Hexylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol. 5.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述介质/溶剂(B)包含水和醇两者,其中相对于所述组合物的重量,水在所述组合物中的存在量为40重量%至99重量%,更优选50重量%至90重量%,或60重量%至80重量%,和/或相对于所述组合物的重量,醇在所述组合物中的存在量为0.1重量%至40重量%,更优选1重量%至30重量%,或5重量%至20重量%。5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the medium/solvent (B) comprises both water and alcohol, wherein the proportion of water in the composition relative to the weight of the composition It is present in an amount of 40% to 99% by weight, more preferably 50% to 90% by weight, or 60% to 80% by weight, and/or the amount of alcohol in the composition relative to the weight of the composition It is present in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 1% to 30% by weight, or 5% to 20% by weight. 6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述稳定增稠剂(C-1)选自丙烯酸、取代的丙烯酸、以及所述丙烯酸和取代的丙烯酸的盐和酯,例如卡波姆。6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the stabilizing thickener (C-1 ) is selected from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of said acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid, such as carbomer. 7.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中相对于所述组合物的总重量,所述稳定增稠剂(C-1)在组合物中的存在量为0.14重量%至5重量%,优选地0.2重量%至3重量%,或优选地0.3重量%至1重量%,包括其间的所有范围和子范围。7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said stabilizing thickener (C-1 ) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.14% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, or preferably 0.3% to 1% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 8.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,还包含至少一种附加增稠剂(C-2),其选自乙烯基聚合物,例如聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、甲基乙烯基醚和苹果酸酐的共聚物、乙酸乙烯酯和巴豆酸的共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮和乙酸乙烯酯的共聚物;乙烯基吡咯烷酮和己内酰胺的共聚物;聚乙烯醇。8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional thickener (C-2) selected from vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, methyl vinyl ether and Copolymer of malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol. 9.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,还包含至少一种调理活性剂(D),所述调理活性剂(D)选自非硅酮阳离子表面活性剂、脂肪酸酯和薄荷醇以及它们的衍生物。9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one conditioning active agent (D) selected from the group consisting of non-silicone cationic surfactants, fatty acid esters and Menthol and their derivatives. 10.根据权利要求9所述的组合物,其中相对于所述组合物的总重量,所述调理活性剂(D)的存在量为0.001重量%至1重量%、优选0.01重量%至0.5重量%、或优选0.02重量%至0.2重量%。10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the conditioning active agent (D) is present in an amount of 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition %, or preferably 0.02% to 0.2% by weight. 11.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,还包含至少一种阳离子聚合物(E),其选自接枝有水溶性季铵单体的阳离子纤维素共聚物或纤维素衍生物,例如聚季铵盐聚合物。11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polymer (E) selected from cationic cellulose copolymers grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers or cellulose-derived substances, such as polyquaternium polymers. 12.根据权利要求11所述的组合物,其中相对于所述组合物的重量,所述阳离子聚合物(E)在所述组合物中的存在量为0.01至5重量%,优选0.05至1重量%,或优选0.1至0.6重量%,包括其间的所有范围和子范围。12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the cationic polymer (E) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition % by weight, or preferably 0.1 to 0.6% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 13.根据前述权利要求中任一项的组合物,还包含至少一种增溶剂(F),其选自C18-C24脂肪酸的甘油酯及其氧化烯化衍生物;C8-C24脂肪酸的聚乙二醇酯,及其氧化烯化衍生物;C8-C24脂肪酸的山梨醇酯,及其氧化烯化衍生物;C8-C24脂肪酸的脱水山梨糖醇酯,及其氧化烯化衍生物;C8-C24脂肪酸的糖酯,及其氧化烯化衍生物;脂肪醇醚;C8-C24脂肪醇的糖醚,及其混合物。13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one solubilizer (F) selected from glycerides of C18-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycols of C8-C24 fatty acids; Diol esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C8- Sugar esters of C24 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. 14.根据权利要求13所述的组合物,其中相对于所述组合物重量,所述增溶剂(F)在所述组合物中的存在量为0.01%至5%,例如0.05%至3%,或0.1%至1%,包括其间的所有范围和子范围。14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the solubilizer (F) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, such as 0.05% to 3%, relative to the weight of the composition , or 0.1% to 1%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 15.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其不含基于硅酮的油。15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of silicone-based oils. 16.一种免洗型角蛋白材料护理产品,其包含根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,可用于护理皮肤、头皮和/或头发。16. A leave-on care product for keratinous materials comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for use in the care of the skin, scalp and/or hair.
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