WO2025086139A1

WO2025086139A1 - Composition for conditioning keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2025086139A1
Application number: PCT/CN2023/126453
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xiao Chen; Xiuxia Wang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-10-25
Filing date: 2023-10-25
Publication date: 2025-05-01
Anticipated expiration: 2026-04-25
Also published as: FR3154605A3; FR3154605B3

Abstract

It relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising: a) at least one spheric particle of lipophilically modified silica; b) at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; c) at least one salt of polyacrylic acid; and d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols. It also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers comprising applying said composition onto said keratin fibers.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBERS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers.

BACKGROUND ART

In certain circumstances such as under sun exposures, the keratin fibers, such as the skin and the scalp, are likely to sweat, leading to sebum secretion.

An excess of sebum secretion on the scalp renders the hair greasy and damages its appearance, such as its volumized appearance.

In addition, the presence of sebum reduces the freshness perceived on the scalp. Oily scalp is the second biggest concern of hair and scalp problems especially among Chinese consumers.

There are many products developed to solve issues caused by excess sebum.

For example, US5137715A discloses a hair shampoo-conditioner composition consisting essentially of: (a) from about 1%to about 20%by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b) from about 0.1%to about 2.5%by weight of a substantially uncrosslinked polymeric amidoamine; and (c) a suitable carrier comprising water; wherein the composition has a pH in the range of from about 2.5 to less than 7.

However, many products on the market are not effective for excess sebum so that they cannot deliver the hair a volumized look.

Thus it is desired to have an effective solution for excess sebum which can reduce the issues caused by heavy sebum and deliver the hair a volumized look.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for conditioning keratin fibers, which can reduce the issues caused by heavy sebum and deliver the hair a volumized look.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising:

a) at least one spheric particle of lipophilically modified silica;

b) at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;

c) at least one salt of polyacrylic acid; and

d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention onto said keratin fibers.

The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can effectively anti-sebum and make the hair volumized.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.

As used therein, the term “keratin fibers” includes human keratin fibers, especially the hair.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:

a) at least one spheric particle of lipophilically modified silica;

c) at least one salt of polyacrylic acid; and

d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

Spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica.

As used herein, a “spheric particle” means a particle in the shape of sphere or at least approximate sphere, and/or a particle having an aspect ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, e.g., about 0.95 to 1.05. For example, those skilled in the art can determine whether a particle is in the shape of sphere according to the conventional knowledge. In particular, regarding a given silica, it is within the ordinary skill of persons in the art to distinguish the shape of sphere from other shapes of plate, rod, powder, strip, irregular shapes or the like, and from amorphous similar.

As used herein, a “lipophilically modified” silica means one having subjected to lipophilic modification. According to the present invention, lipophilic modification means any organo-modification capable of bringing hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment to the silica. For example, a silica can be treated with a siloxane compound, e.g., hydroxydimethylsiloxane (or other silanes, such as silazane, etc. ) , through which the silanol group on the surface of the silica and the silanol group of the siloxane compound are condensed.

In some embodiments, the lipophilically modified silica is selected from silica treated with a siloxane compound, preferably selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, and mixtures thereof.

Amongst others, useful examples of “spheric particle of lipophilically modified” silica can be the one available from company TOKUYAMA CORPORATION under the name ofTL-10.

According to the present invention, when being incorporated into the composition, the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica can show an oil-absorbing capacity of 500 ml/100g or more, 600 ml/100g or more, or even 700 ml/100g or more.

Advantageously, the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Superabsorbent polymer

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.

The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon-Peppas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.

Advantageously, said superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo-or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Specifically, the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.

These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e., 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer) , preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25℃) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer (s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150μm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated form, a mean size of less than or equal to 100μm and preferably less than or equal to 50μm, for example ranging from 1 to 100μm, preferably from 5 to 50μm and better still from 7 to 30μm.

The mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles having a mean size that can range from 10μm to 2000μm.

Such polymers are known for their gelling properties and are generally used in a form pre-swollen in aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer (s) used comprise from 85%to 95%by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5%to 15%by weight of starch. Preferably, they are constituted of 90%by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10%by weight of starch.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the number-average molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer (s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

Mention may particularly be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST- 100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch) .

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo-or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles, so that the hair will not get sticky to each other and will have a volumized look.

With the presence of the superabsorbent polymers, the composition of the present invention can deliver a non-wet and quick drying feeling.

Meanwhile, the superabsorbent polymers have a good affinity on the skin, results in a good fixation of absorption beads, which can deliver a good oil control efficacy.

Advantageously, the superabsorbent polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, most preferably ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Salts of polyacrylic acid

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one salt of polyacrylic acid.

Suitable salts of polyacrylic acid for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.

The salt of polyacrylic acids can be partially or totally neutralized.

The acrylic monomers of the salts of polyacrylic acids according to the invention may be neutralized to a proportion of from 90%to 100%.

Examples thereof include the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.

The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.

According to the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.

In one preferred embodiment, said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate designed by CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is for example COSMEDIA SP sold by the company BASF orMV60 sold by the company SENSIENT.

Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmediacontains 90%solids and 10%water.

Advantageously, the salt of polyacrylic acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, most preferably ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferred that the weight ratio of the superabsorbent polymer to the salt of polyacrylic acid is 1: 4 to 4: 1, so that a good balance of the suspension required by the composition and the preferred hair sensory can be achieved.

The inventors have found that a combination of the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and the salt of polyacrylic acid can result in longer and more effect oil control.

Volatile solvents

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

Preferably, the volatile solvent is selected from C2-C5 monoalcohols.

More preferably, the volatile solvent is selected from ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, butan-2-ol, methylpropan-1-ol, methylpropan-2-ol, and mixtures thereof.

Most preferably, the volatile solvent is ethanol.

Advantageously, the volatile solvent selected from alcohols is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably ranging from 1 wt. %to 45 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 5 wt. %to 40 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water

The composition of the present invention may further comprise water.

Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50 wt. %to 99 wt. %, preferably from 60 wt. %to 99 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

Optionally, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional active ingredients for conditioning keratin fibers.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional active ingredients according to desired purpose.

Adjuvants

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise additional adjuvants, such as fragrances, preservatives and so on.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of spheric particle of silica silylate;

b) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8wt. %of starch grafted with sodium polyacrylate;

c) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate; and

d) from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %of ethanol.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition of the present invention can be a leave-on product.

The composition of the present invention can be used on both wet and dry hair and scalp right after wash or during daytime and deliver longer oil control efficacy.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention onto said keratin fibers.

EXAMPLES

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3

Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 2

Compositions of invention examples 1-2 are compositions according to the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one salt of polyacrylic acid.

Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one salt of polyacrylic acid and at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.

Preparation procedure:

Each composition was prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 for example:

1) . dispersing silica silylate in ethanol to obtain a premix phase A;

2) . adding water in a main container,

3) . adding sodium polyacrylate starch and sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer into the main container with stirring; and

4) . adding the premix phase A into the main container with stirring; and

5) . adding other components if any with stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition.

Evaluation:

Anti-sebum migration effect and volumized hair look delivered by each composition prepared above were evaluated.

Anti-sebum migration

100%white hair swatches were used for this test; a reset pre-wash was carried out with a standard shampoo. Compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 were evaluated in this test.

2.5g of a composition to be tested was applied on each swatch, each hair swatch was then fixed on a support.

After a 40℃ pre-heating, 100μL of artificial sebum was sampled with an automatic micropipette, and applied on the extremity of a spatula.

The hair swatch was then wrapped on a rigid rule, and artificial sebum homogeneously spread from the spatula to a calibrated length of 3 cm, that was separated from 1.5 cm from the support.

A timer was started and the sebum front was observed after 20 minutes, 40 minutes, 2 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours. The migration distance was measured and recorded at those time points.

Volumized hair look

6 g of natural hair swatches were used for this test; a reset pre-wash was carried out with a standard shampoo. Compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 were evaluated in this test.

0.3 g of oleic acid was applied on each swatch, and then 1.5 g of a composition to be tested was applied on each swatch.

After drying, each swatch was combed five times and the volume of each swatch was observed and scored from 1 to 5 according to the following criterion.

5: very good; a separated, distinct look of the hair fibers.

4: basically good; a very good volumized look of the hair, fiber not separated completely.

3: acceptable; a good volumized look of the hair, with some of sticky fibers.

2: slightly poor and not acceptable; hair lacks volume with sticky fibers.

1: poor, not acceptable, fibers sticky to each other, stringy hair look.

The sebum migration distance and average scores on volumized hair look delivered by compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3 were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

It can be seen from Table 3 that each composition of invention examples 1-2 have good anti-sebum performance and can deliver the hair a good volumized look.

Claims

A composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising:

a) at least one spheric particle of lipophilically modified silica;

b) at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;

c) at least one salt of polyacrylic acid; and

d) at least one volatile solvent selected from alcohols.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilically modified silica is selected from silica treated with a siloxane compound, preferably selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo-or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, most preferably ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the salt of polyacrylic acid is selected from metal salts of polyacrylic acid, preferably, the salt of polyacrylic acid is selected from sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid, more preferably, the salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the salt of polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, most preferably ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the weight ratio of the superabsorbent polymer to the salt of polyacrylic acid is 1: 4 to 4: 1.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the volatile solvent is selected from C2-C5 monoalcohols, preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, butan-2-ol, methylpropan-1-ol, methylpropan-2-ol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the volatile solvent is ethanol.
Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the volatile solvent selected from alcohols is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably ranging from 1 wt. %to 45 wt. %, more preferably ranging from 5 wt. %to 40 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-10, further comprising water.
Composition according to claim 11, wherein water is preferably present in an amount ranging from 50 wt. %to 99 wt. %, preferably from 60 wt. %to 99 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.5 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %of spheric particle of silica silylate;

b) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of starch grafted with sodium polyacrylate;

c) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate; and

d) from 10 wt. %to 40 wt. %of ethanol.
A cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers comprising applying a composition as defined in any of claims 1-13 onto said keratin fibers.