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WO2025229867A1 - Procédé de production d'un matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent et matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent - Google Patents

Procédé de production d'un matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent et matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent

Info

Publication number
WO2025229867A1
WO2025229867A1 PCT/JP2025/014870 JP2025014870W WO2025229867A1 WO 2025229867 A1 WO2025229867 A1 WO 2025229867A1 JP 2025014870 W JP2025014870 W JP 2025014870W WO 2025229867 A1 WO2025229867 A1 WO 2025229867A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
powder
less
mass
moisturizer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/JP2025/014870
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
希佳 高橋
純平 湊
義堅 紀野
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Shiseido Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Shiseido Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Shiseido Co Ltd filed Critical Shiseido Co Ltd
Publication of WO2025229867A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025229867A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up

Definitions

  • This disclosure relates to a method for producing a solid cosmetic powder, and to a solid cosmetic powder.
  • Solid powder cosmetics containing powder ingredients that can be used for foundations and the like are known.
  • Patent Document 1 discloses a powder-containing solid makeup cosmetic, which contains 33% or more by mass of oil and 3 to 15% by mass of moisturizer relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • Patent Document 2 discloses a solid powder cosmetic containing (A) ethyl cellulose, (B) a monohydric liquid alcohol having a total of 18 to 24 carbon atoms, (C) a powder, (D) a liquid ester oil having a molecular weight of 1,100 or less and one or more hydroxyl groups, and a moisturizer, etc.
  • moisturizers When moisturizers are added to powder cosmetics, they can feel dry and brittle, and under humid conditions, water droplets can form on the surface of the cosmetics, causing caking.
  • the subject matter of the present disclosure is to provide a powder solid cosmetic preparation containing a moisturizer that can reduce or inhibit the generation of water droplets and is easy to use.
  • ⁇ Aspect 1> preparing an oil phase part containing a moisturizer and an oil, the oil phase part being prepared by mixing components constituting the oil phase part to form a dispersion in which the moisturizer is dispersed in the oil; and mixing the oil phase part and a powder to form a mixture; Including, A method for producing a powdered solid cosmetic product.
  • the moisturizer comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin and a dihydric glycol.
  • ⁇ Aspect 4> A manufacturing method according to any one of aspects 1 to 3, wherein the oil phase part has a viscosity of 17,000 mPa s or more at 80°C.
  • Aspect 5 A method according to any one of Aspects 1 to 4, wherein the moisturizing agent dispersed in the oil has an average particle size of 100 ⁇ m or less.
  • Aspect 6 A method according to any one of Aspects 1 to 5, wherein the method is a dry molding method.
  • the oily dispersion medium comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil and hydrocarbon oil.
  • the oily dispersion medium comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil and hydrocarbon oil.
  • a powder solid cosmetic comprising a powder, a moisturizer, and an oil component, with the moisturizer being dispersed in the oil component.
  • the content of the moisturizing agent is 1.0% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • the present disclosure makes it possible to provide a powder solid cosmetic product containing a moisturizer that can reduce or inhibit the generation of water droplets and is easy to use.
  • FIG. 1 is a photograph showing a state in which a moisturizing agent is dispersed in oil when a method for producing a solid cosmetic product in powder form according to one embodiment of the present disclosure is used.
  • FIG. 2 is a photograph showing a state in which a moisturizing agent is dispersed in oil when a method for producing a solid cosmetic product in powder form according to another embodiment of the present disclosure is used.
  • the powder solid cosmetic product of the present disclosure can be formed by mixing the moisturizer and oil components that make up the oil phase part to form an oil phase part that is a dispersion in which the moisturizer is dispersed in the oil, and then mixing this oil phase part (dispersion) with the powder.
  • the mechanism by which the powder solid cosmetic preparation of the present disclosure reduces or inhibits the generation of water droplets and is easy to use, despite containing a moisturizer, is believed to be as follows.
  • solid cosmetics in powder form are generally produced by simultaneously blending oil and any oily ingredients with powder components, and then mixing them uniformly.
  • solid cosmetics in powder form containing moisturizers are produced using this manufacturing method, it is thought that large amounts of moisturizer are left exposed and attached to powder particles, etc. As a result, it is thought that moisturizers in this state may absorb moisture, causing water droplets to form on the surface of the cosmetic, or may have a negative impact on usability.
  • the solid cosmetic powder of the present disclosure is produced by mixing the moisturizer and oil components that make up the oil phase, dispersing the moisturizer in the oil, and then blending the resulting dispersion (oil phase component) with the powder component.
  • the minute moisturizer particles are encased in oil and mixed with the powder, which is believed to reduce the amount of exposed moisturizer adhering to the powder.
  • the moisturizer is in the form of minute particles compared to moisturizers in solid cosmetic powders obtained by conventional manufacturing methods, it is believed that the moisturizer's water absorption ability on the cosmetic surface is reduced.
  • the solid cosmetic powder of the present disclosure is able to reduce or inhibit the generation of water droplets despite containing a moisturizer, and is also believed to improve usability.
  • the fact that the moisturizer is dispersed in the oil at minute particle sizes was confirmed using an optical microscope, as shown in Figures 1 and 2.
  • at least the particles with lengths indicated in the figures correspond to minute-sized moisturizers (moisturizer particles).
  • the finely dispersed moisturizing agent particles can be fixed in the oil in the final cosmetic product, which is believed to result in a more stable powder solid cosmetic product.
  • Patent Document 1 does not implement the manufacturing method of the present disclosure. Therefore, if a powder solid cosmetic with the same composition as Patent Document 1 (for example, a powder solid cosmetic containing 33% or more by mass of oil) is produced using the manufacturing method of the present disclosure, it is believed that the effect of reducing water droplet generation and/or usability will be further improved. Furthermore, Patent Document 1 does not implement the manufacturing method of the present disclosure, and the moisturizing agent in the powder solid cosmetic is not present in a dispersed state in the oil.
  • a powder solid cosmetic with the same composition as Patent Document 1 for example, a powder solid cosmetic containing 33% or more by mass of oil
  • the cosmetic described in Patent Document 1 and the powder solid cosmetic of the present disclosure are believed to be different as “substances.” Furthermore, while the powder solid cosmetic of Patent Document 1 is required to contain 33% or more by mass of oil, it has been confirmed that the effect of reducing water droplet generation and/or usability can be improved using the manufacturing method of the present disclosure, even if the oil content is less than 33% by mass.
  • "usability” refers to the ease of use of a powder solid cosmetic product, and refers to, for example, whether the product has a moist feel rather than a dry feel, how easily the cosmetic product can be dispensed with a puff from a compact case filled with the powder solid cosmetic product (the smoothness of the cosmetic product), or how easily the obtained cosmetic product can be applied to the skin (for example, whether the cosmetic product can be lightly applied to the skin).
  • the method for producing a solid cosmetic product in powder form according to the present disclosure comprises: (1) preparing an oil phase part containing a moisturizer and an oil, and mixing the components that make up this oil phase part to form a dispersion in which the moisturizer is dispersed in the oil, and (2) mixing the obtained oil phase part (dispersion) with a powder to form a mixture.
  • the production method according to the present disclosure can be carried out using either a dry molding method or a wet molding method.
  • the method for preparing the oil phase part containing a humectant and oil can be appropriately set depending on, for example, the type of humectant and oil, the average particle size required for the humectant particles, and the required performance (e.g., ease of use and ability to reduce water droplet generation).
  • the oil phase part can be prepared by mixing the humectant, oil, and other components that make up the oil phase part using a mixing device such as a homogenizer, mixer, or disper. Mixing devices can be used alone or in combination of two or more types. Among these, homogenizers are preferred from the standpoint of uniform mixing of the humectant, oil, etc.
  • Mixing conditions are not particularly limited and can be set appropriately depending on, for example, the type of humectant and oil, the required average particle size of the humectant particles, and the required performance (e.g., usability and ability to reduce water droplet generation).
  • the stirring speed include 500 rpm or more, 700 rpm or more, 1,000 rpm or more, 2,000 rpm or more, 3,000 rpm or more, 4,000 rpm or more, and 5,000 rpm or more; and 20,000 rpm or less, 17,000 rpm or less, 15,000 rpm or less, 13,000 rpm or less, 10,000 rpm or less, 9,000 rpm or less, 8,000 rpm or less, and 7,000 rpm or less.
  • the stirring speed can be set appropriately within this range.
  • the stirring speeds may be the same or different when blending the components that make up the oil phase part.
  • Specific stirring times can be, for example, 10 seconds or more, 30 seconds or more, 50 seconds or more, 1 minute or more, 3 minutes or more, 5 minutes or more, 7 minutes or more, or 10 minutes or more, or 30 minutes or less, 20 minutes or less, 15 minutes or less, 10 minutes or less, 5 minutes or less, or 3 minutes or less.
  • the stirring time can be set appropriately within these ranges. For example, when blending each component that makes up the oil phase part, the stirring times may be the same or different.
  • the stirring temperature can be, for example, equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the moisturizer and/or oil.
  • the stirring temperature can be, for example, 80°C or higher, 85°C or higher, or 90°C or higher, and can be 120°C or lower, 110°C or lower, or 100°C or lower.
  • the stirring temperature can be set appropriately within this range. For example, when blending each component that makes up the oil phase part, the stirring temperature may be the same or different.
  • the viscosity of the oil phase part is preferably 17,000 mPa ⁇ s or more, 18,000 mPa ⁇ s or more, 19,000 mPa ⁇ s or more, or 20,000 mPa ⁇ s or more at 80°C to 85°C (e.g., 80°C).
  • this viscosity can be, for example, 500,000 mPa ⁇ s or less, 300,000 mPa ⁇ s or less, 200,000 mPa ⁇ s or less, 150,000 mPa ⁇ s or less, or 100,000 mPa ⁇ s or less.
  • the viscosity of the oil phase part is the melt viscosity, and this viscosity is determined at a predetermined temperature of 80°C to 85°C (e.g., 80°C), using a rotor No. It can be measured using an L-type viscometer (manufactured by Shibaura Semtec Co., Ltd.) at 6 and 10 rpm. Note that the temperature "80°C” refers to the temperature at which viscosity is measured.
  • the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form of the present disclosure can be produced by a dry molding method, in which the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form can be obtained by filling the obtained mixture into a container following the steps (1) and (2) described above.
  • the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form of the present disclosure can be produced by a wet molding method.
  • the wet molding method includes, following the above-mentioned steps (1) and (2), blending the resulting mixture into an oily dispersion medium to form a slurry.
  • an oily dispersion medium instead of an aqueous dispersion medium, the moisturizer is more likely to adhere to the powder in the final solid cosmetic preparation in powder form while dispersed in oil.
  • the oil-based dispersion medium can be selected appropriately depending on the type of oil and/or moisturizer used.
  • the oils described below can be used as the oil-based dispersion medium. Of these, at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil and hydrocarbon oil is preferred from the standpoint of the fine dispersion of the moisturizer in the oil, the associated effect of reducing the generation of water droplets, moisturizing effect, and ease of use.
  • the oil-based dispersion medium can be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
  • the oil-based dispersion medium may contain an alcohol component (e.g., a lower alcohol component such as ethanol) to the extent that it does not adversely affect the effects of the present invention.
  • an alcohol component e.g., a lower alcohol component such as ethanol
  • the amount of such alcohol component is preferably 10% by mass or less, 5.0% by mass or less, 3.0% by mass or less, 1.0% by mass or less, 0.5% by mass or less, or 0.1% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the oil-based dispersion medium, and it is more preferable that no alcohol component be added.
  • the wet molding method can further include at least one step selected from the group consisting of filling the slurry into a container, removing the oily dispersion medium from the container filled with the slurry, and drying.
  • the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form of the present disclosure (sometimes simply referred to as "cosmetic") comprises a powder, a moisturizer, and an oil, with the moisturizer dispersed in the oil.
  • a cosmetic preparation may be in the form of, for example, a pressed powder.
  • the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form of the present disclosure can typically be obtained by the above-described manufacturing method. Therefore, matters relating to the components constituting the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form, such as the powder, oil, and moisturizer, which will be described later, can also be used in the above-described manufacturing method.
  • the solid cosmetic in powder form of the present disclosure can reduce or suppress the generation of water droplets on the cosmetic surface in a high-humidity environment. For example, at 37°C, in an environment with a relative humidity of 80% RH or more, 85% RH or more, 90% RH or more, 95% RH or more, or 98% RH or more, and 100% RH or less, or less than 100%, the generation of water droplets on the cosmetic surface can be reduced or suppressed for 1 day or more, 5 days or more, 1 week or more, 2 weeks or more, 3 weeks or more, or 4 weeks or more.
  • reducing the generation of water droplets means that the amount of water droplets generated is reduced compared to a solid cosmetic in powder form of the same composition obtained by a conventional, general manufacturing method that does not use the manufacturing method of the present disclosure, but instead involves blending an oil and any oily component into powder components simultaneously and then uniformly mixing them.
  • the powder used in the solid cosmetic product in powder form according to the present disclosure is not particularly limited, and for example, spherical or non-spherical powders commonly used in the art can be used.
  • the powders can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • the solid cosmetic product in powder form may contain only spherical powders, only non-spherical powders, or both spherical and non-spherical powders.
  • the powder solid cosmetic of the present disclosure contains a spherical powder.
  • the average particle diameter of the spherical powder can be 0.01 ⁇ m or more, 0.05 ⁇ m or more, 0.1 ⁇ m or more, 0.5 ⁇ m or more, 1.0 ⁇ m or more, 3.0 ⁇ m or more, or 5.0 ⁇ m or more, and can be 50 ⁇ m or less, 30 ⁇ m or less, 20 ⁇ m or less, 15 ⁇ m or less, or 10 ⁇ m or less.
  • Spherical powders with average particle diameters within these ranges can be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
  • the average particle size can be defined as the average diameter of the powder (particles) measured optically using dynamic light scattering, assuming the powder shape is spherical.
  • the solid cosmetic in powder form of the present disclosure contains a non-spherical powder.
  • Non-spherical powder refers to powder that does not fall under the category of spherical powders described above, and can be defined, for example, by its aspect ratio.
  • the aspect ratio of the non-spherical powder can be 1.2 or more, 1.5 or more, 2.0 or more, 2.5 or more, 3.0 or more, 5.0 or more, 7.0 or more, 10 or more, 15 or more, 20 or more, 25 or more, or 30 or more, and can be 200 or less, 170 or less, 150 or less, 120 or less, 100 or less, 70 or less, or 50 or less. Powders with aspect ratios within these ranges can be used alone or in combination of two or more types of non-spherical powder.
  • the aspect ratio can be calculated, for example, by extracting any 10 or more (e.g., 100) powder particles through microscopic observation, measuring the longitudinal (surface) length of each powder and the lateral (thickness) length of the powder, and dividing the longitudinal length by the lateral length (i.e., longitudinal length/lateral length). The powder with the longest longitudinal length is selected, and the powder with the shortest lateral length is selected.
  • the aspect ratio can be taken as the average aspect ratio of any 10 or more (e.g., 100) powder particles.
  • the amount of powder blended can be, for example, 30% by mass or more, 40% by mass or more, 50% by mass or more, 55% by mass or more, 60% by mass or more, 65% by mass or more, 70% by mass or more, 75% by mass or more, 80% by mass or more, or 85% by mass or more, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and can also be 95% by mass or less, 93% by mass or less, 90% by mass or less, 87% by mass or less, 85% by mass or less, 83% by mass or less, or 80% by mass or less.
  • the powder can be blended into the cosmetic in an amount within these ranges as appropriate.
  • inorganic powder and/or organic powder can be used.
  • Inorganic powder and organic powder can be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
  • ingredients that make up inorganic powders include, for example, talc, kaolin, mica (e.g., sericite (sericite), muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, synthetic iron phlogopite, lepidolite, biotite), calcined talc, calcined mica (e.g., calcined sericite, calcined muscovite, calcined phlogopite), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, Ca/Al borosilicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, alumina, zeolite, aluminum hydroxide, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soaps (e.g.,
  • inorganic powders can also be used, such as inorganic pigments (sometimes referred to as "inorganic colored pigments").
  • inorganic pigments include inorganic white pigments (e.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide); inorganic red pigments (e.g., iron oxide (red iron), iron titanate); inorganic brown pigments (e.g., gamma-iron oxide); inorganic yellow pigments (e.g., yellow iron oxide, ochre); inorganic black pigments (e.g., black iron oxide, low-order titanium oxide); inorganic purple pigments (e.g., mango violet, cobalt violet); inorganic green pigments (e.g., chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate); and inorganic blue pigments (e.g., ultramarine, Prussian blue).
  • inorganic white pigments e.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide
  • inorganic red pigments e.g., iron oxide (red iron
  • glittering powders include pearl pigments (e.g., bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, titanium mica, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with low-order titanium oxide, titanium mica with photochromic properties, substrates using talc, glass, synthetic fluorine-containing phlogopite, silica, bismuth oxychloride, etc.
  • pearl pigments e.g., bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, titanium mica, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with low-order titanium oxide, titanium mica with photochromic properties, substrates using talc, glass, synthetic fluorine-containing phlogopite, silica, bismuth oxychloride, etc.
  • coatings other than titanium oxide such as low-order titanium oxide, colored titanium oxide, iron oxide, alumina, silica, zirconia, zinc oxide, cobalt oxide, and aluminum, and functional pearl pigments such as pearl pigments coated with resin particles, pearl pigments coated with aluminum hydroxide particles, pearl pigments coated with zinc oxide particles, and pearl pigments coated with barium sulfate particles); and metal powder pigments (e.g., aluminum powder and copper powder).
  • Ingredients that make up organic powders include, for example, silicone elastomers, silicone, silicone resin-coated silicone elastomers, polyamide resins (e.g., nylon), polyolefin resins (e.g., polyethylene), polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resins, benzoguanamine resins, fluororesins (e.g., polytetrafluoroethylene), starch (e.g., starch aluminum octenyl succinate), crosspolymers such as (HDI/trimethylol hexyl lactone) crosspolymer, (diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, and (IPDI/poly(1,4-butanediol)-14) crosspolymer, and cellulose.
  • silicone elastomers silicone, silicone resin-coated silicone
  • organic powders can also be used, such as organic pigments (sometimes referred to as "organic colored pigments") and/or dyes.
  • organic pigments include zirconium, barium, or aluminum lakes. Specific examples include Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404, as well as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 227, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 505, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1.
  • pigments examples include natural pigments, specifically, chlorophyll and ⁇ -carotene.
  • the powder used in the powder solid cosmetic of the present disclosure may or may not be treated with a surface treatment agent.
  • a surface treatment agent such as carboxydecyltrisiloxane, dimethicone, silicone, myristic acid, stearic acid, dextrin palmitate, or acrylic-silicone graft copolymer
  • the proportion of such treated powder to the total powder can be 100% or less, 80% or less, 50% or less, 30% or less, 15% or less, 10% or less, 5% or less, 1% or less, 0.5% or less, 0.1% or less, 0.05% or less, or 0.01% or less, or 0.01% or more, 0.1% or more, 1% or more, 5% or more, 10% or more, 20% or more, 30% or more, 40% or more, or 50% or more.
  • ⁇ Moisturizer> There are no particular limitations on the moisturizing agent used in the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form according to the present disclosure.
  • the moisturizing agent may be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds.
  • Solid powder cosmetics typically do not contain moisturizers.
  • the solid powder cosmetics of the present disclosure contain moisturizers, which impart moisturizing properties to the solid powder cosmetics, resulting in improved cosmetic effects such as skin care compared to conventional solid powder cosmetics.
  • the amount of moisturizer blended can be, for example, 1.0% by mass or more, 1.5% by mass or more, 2.0% by mass or more, 2.5% by mass or more, or 3.0% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and can also be 20% by mass or less, 17% by mass or less, 15% by mass or less, 13% by mass or less, 10% by mass or less, 8.0% by mass or less, 7.0% by mass or less, or 5.0% by mass or less.
  • the amount of moisturizer blended can be set appropriately within these ranges depending on the required performance of the powder solid cosmetic.
  • humectant can refer to a substance whose mass change rate when 5 g of the moisturizing agent component is weighed out accurately into a 20 ml screw tube and left to stand overnight at 37°C and 98% relative humidity is 0.2% or more, 1.0% or more, 3.0% or more, 5.0% or more, or 7.0% or more by mass, 30% or less, 25% or less, or 20% or less.
  • humectants include glycerin, dihydric glycols, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether, polyethylene glycol, diglycerin, xylitol, trehalose, erythritol, hyaluronic acid, and urea.
  • glycerin and dihydric glycols are preferred from the standpoints of their fine dispersibility in oil, the associated effect of reducing water droplet formation, and ease of use.
  • dihydric glycols include 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
  • dihydric glycol in this disclosure does not include polyethylene glycol.
  • the moisturizer in the cosmetic is dispersed in the oil in a particulate form (sometimes referred to as "moisturizer particles"), as shown in Figures 1 and 2.
  • the average particle diameter of the moisturizer dispersed in the oil is preferably 100 ⁇ m or less, 80 ⁇ m or less, 50 ⁇ m or less, 30 ⁇ m or less, or 20 ⁇ m or less, from the viewpoints of fine dispersibility in the oil, the associated effect of reducing water droplet generation, moisturizing effect, and usability.
  • the lower limit of this average particle diameter can be, for example, 1 ⁇ m or more, 2 ⁇ m or more, 3 ⁇ m or more, 4 ⁇ m or more, or 5 ⁇ m or more.
  • the average particle diameter be in the range of 2 to 50 ⁇ m.
  • the average particle diameter of such a moisturizer can be defined as the average value of the diameter of the circle equivalent to the projected area of 10 or more, preferably 100 or more, moisturizer particles observed with an optical microscope.
  • the average particle size of the moisturizer can be adjusted as needed, for example, by adjusting the mixing conditions (e.g., stirring speed, stirring time) when preparing the oil phase part.
  • oils used in the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form according to the present disclosure there are no particular limitations on the oils used in the solid cosmetic preparation in powder form according to the present disclosure.
  • the oils may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • the amount of oil contained can be, for example, 5.0% by mass or more, 10% by mass or more, 20% by mass or more, 30% by mass or more, 40% by mass or more, 50% by mass or more, or 60% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and can also be 95% by mass or less, 90% by mass or less, 80% by mass or less, 70% by mass or less, 60% by mass or less, 50% by mass or less, 40% by mass or less, less than 33% by mass, 30% by mass or less, or 25% by mass or less.
  • the oil can be used appropriately within these ranges.
  • oils include hydrocarbon oils (especially non-polar hydrocarbon oils), liquid oils and fats, solid oils and fats, waxes, silicone oils, and polar oils (e.g., synthetic ester oils).
  • hydrocarbon oils especially non-polar hydrocarbon oils
  • silicone oils are preferred, with hydrocarbon oils (especially non-polar hydrocarbon oils) being more preferred.
  • an oil that is solid at room temperature e.g. 25°C
  • the finely dispersed moisturizer particles can be fixed in the oil in the final cosmetic product, resulting in a more stable powder solid cosmetic product. Therefore, it is also preferable to use an oil that is solid at room temperature (e.g., 25°C).
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include petrolatum, liquid paraffin, tetraisobutane, hydrogenated polydecene, microcrystalline wax, olefin oligomer, isododecane, isohexadecane, squalane, polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. These hydrocarbon oils may also be non-polar hydrocarbon oils.
  • liquid oils examples include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and triglycerin.
  • solid fats and oils examples include cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse tallow, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hardened beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japan wax kernel oil, hardened oil, beef foot fat, Japan wax, and hardened castor oil.
  • waxes examples include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, privet wax, spermaceti, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether.
  • silicone oils examples include linear silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; and cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • linear silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane
  • cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • Synthetic ester oils include, for example, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri
  • Such synthetic ester oils are classified as polar oils.
  • Polar oils and non-polar oils can be distinguished by their IOB value.
  • the IOB value of polar oils can be, for example, 0.10 or more, 0.11 or more, 0.12 or more, or 0.13 or more, and can be 0.50 or less, 0.45 or less, or 0.40 or less.
  • values are set according to the type of atom or functional group, such as 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule and 100 for one hydroxyl group.
  • the IOB value of that organic compound can be calculated (see, for example, “Organic Conceptual Diagram - Basics and Applications” by Yoshio Koda, pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
  • the powder solid cosmetic of the present disclosure may contain silicone oil in an amount of less than 30% by mass, less than 20% by mass, less than 10% by mass, 5.0% by mass or less, 1% by mass or less, or 0.5% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. There is no particular lower limit to this amount, and it may be 0% by mass or more, or greater than 0% by mass.
  • the solid cosmetic powder preparation of the present disclosure may contain various ingredients as appropriate, provided that they do not adversely affect the effects of the present disclosure.
  • optional ingredients include ingredients other than those described above for use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc. Specific examples include surfactants, water-soluble polymers, oil-soluble polymers, thickeners, film-forming agents, UV absorbers, anti-fading agents, sequestering agents, preservatives, polymer emulsions, pH adjusters, deodorants, disinfectants, antioxidants, antioxidant aids, excipients, fragrances, extracts (e.g., camellia seed extract), and coloring materials (e.g., pigments and coloring agents other than those described above, as well as dyes).
  • the optional ingredients may be used alone or in combination. Some of the optional ingredients are described in detail below.
  • thickener From the viewpoints of the fine dispersibility of the humectant in the oil, the associated effect of reducing the generation of water droplets, the moisturizing effect, and ease of use, the use of a thickener is advantageous, and it is preferable to incorporate it during the preparation of the oil phase part.
  • thickeners include dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, glyceryl fatty acid esters, amino acid gelling agents, fatty acids or salts thereof, and organically modified clay minerals.
  • fatty acids or salts thereof, and organically modified clay minerals are preferred, 12-hydroxystearic acid or salts thereof, and disteardimonium hectorite are more preferred, and disteardimonium hectorite is particularly preferred.
  • the thickeners can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • Dextrin fatty acid esters are esters of dextrin or reduced dextrin with higher fatty acids.
  • the dextrin or reduced dextrin may have an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 100.
  • the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester may be a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Specific examples of such fatty acids include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate).
  • Sucrose fatty acid esters can be used in which the fatty acids are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Specific examples of sucrose fatty acid esters include sucrose caprylate, sucrose caprate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, and sucrose erucate.
  • Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterification reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a dibasic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding dibasic acids).
  • Specific examples of glyceryl fatty acid esters include glyceryl (behenate/isostearate/eicosadioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosadioate), and polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate).
  • amino acid gelling agents include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8, and polyamide-3.
  • Fatty Acids or Salts Thereof Fatty acids that are solid at room temperature can be used, and examples thereof include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Salts of fatty acids can include calcium salts, magnesium salts, and aluminum salts.
  • room temperature refers to a temperature range of 15°C to 25°C.
  • Organically modified clay minerals examples include water-swellable clay minerals treated with quaternary ammonium salts. Specific examples of organically modified clay minerals include disteardimonium hectorite, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride-modified bentonite, dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite, dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, and distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated magnesium aluminum silicate.
  • the amount of thickener used can be, for example, 0.1% by mass or more, 0.3% by mass or more, 0.5% by mass or more, 0.7% by mass or more, 1.0% by mass or more, or 1.3% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and can also be 5.0% by mass or less, 4.5% by mass or less, 4.0% by mass or less, 3.5% by mass or less, 3.0% by mass or less, 2.5% by mass or less, or 2.0% by mass or less.
  • the thickener can be used appropriately within these ranges.
  • the surfactant is not particularly limited, and ionic surfactants (e.g., anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants) and nonionic surfactants can be used. Among them, nonionic surfactants are preferred, and silicone surfactants are more preferred, from the viewpoints of the fine dispersion of the moisturizing agent in the oil, the associated effect of reducing the generation of water droplets, the moisturizing effect, and ease of use.
  • the surfactant is preferably blended during the preparation of the oil phase part. Moreover, the surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • silicone surfactant for example, a silicone surfactant modified with a polyether group or a polyglycerin group can be used.
  • silicone surfactants modified with polyether groups include PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
  • silicone surfactants modified with polyglycerin groups include polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
  • the amount of surfactant added can be, for example, 0.1% by mass or more, 0.5% by mass or more, or 1.0% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and can be 8.0% by mass or less, 6.0% by mass or less, or 5.0% by mass or less.
  • the present invention will be described in more detail below using examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. Unless otherwise specified, the blend amounts are expressed in mass %. Furthermore, the various evaluation methods described in the examples are not limited to the cosmetics described in the examples, but can also be applied to cosmetics containing the above-mentioned components.
  • Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 The solid cosmetic powder preparations obtained by the formulation shown in Table 1 and the manufacturing method described below were evaluated as follows, and the results are shown in Tables 2 and 3. Here, this solid cosmetic powder preparation corresponds to a pressed powder type blush.
  • Evaluation Method occurrence of water droplets> A panel of five experts conducted a comprehensive evaluation of the appearance of the cosmetics. The evaluation method involved leaving the prepared cosmetics for four weeks in environments of 37°C and relative humidity of 90% RH and 95% RH, and then evaluating the presence or absence of water droplets on the surface of the cosmetics according to the following criteria: A: No water droplets were observed. B: A few water droplets were observed. C: Water droplets were clearly observed.
  • Example 1 Fine dispersion of moisturizing agent The components of the oil phase part listed in Table 1, except for the humectant, were heated to 90-95°C and stirred using a homogenizer at 6,000 rpm for 5 minutes to obtain mixture A. Next, while heating and stirring under the same conditions, the humectant listed in Table 1 was added to the obtained mixture A, and further stirred for 5 minutes to prepare an oil phase part, which was a dispersion in which the humectant was dispersed in the oil.
  • the humectant in the dispersion was in particulate form, with particle sizes ranging from about 2 ⁇ m to about 50 ⁇ m, and the average particle size was about 26 ⁇ m.
  • Mixture B was prepared by mixing the specified amounts of powder parts and the obtained oil phase parts listed in Table 1 in a Henschel mixer while heating. Dimethicone, an oil-based dispersion medium, was added to Mixture B and stirred to prepare a slurry solution. The obtained slurry solution was filled into a roughly square (approximately 3 cm x approximately 4 cm) resin dish with a depth of approximately 5 mm, after which the dimethicone was removed and the container was dried to obtain the powder solid cosmetic of Example 1.
  • the oil phase part of Example 1 had a melt viscosity of approximately 100,000 mPa ⁇ s or more at 80°C.
  • Comparative Example 1 Simultaneous addition of moisturizer and oil
  • a mixture was prepared by mixing the specified amounts of powder parts and oil phase parts shown in Table 1 in a Henschel mixer while heating. Dimethicone, an oily dispersion medium, was added to the mixture and stirred to prepare a slurry solution.
  • the obtained slurry solution was filled into a roughly square (approximately 3 cm x approximately 4 cm) resin dish container with a depth of approximately 5 mm, after which the dimethicone was removed and the container was dried to obtain a powder solid cosmetic preparation of Comparative Example 1.
  • Comparative Example 2 Moisturizing agent added first
  • a predetermined amount of the powder part shown in Table 1 was mixed with a moisturizer shown in Table 1 in a Henschel mixer while heating, and then the remaining oil phase part shown in Table 1 was mixed with the Henschel mixer while heating to prepare a mixture.
  • Dimethicone an oily dispersion medium, was added to this mixture and stirred to prepare a slurry solution.
  • the obtained slurry solution was filled into a roughly square (approximately 3 cm x approximately 4 cm) resin dish container with a depth of approximately 5 mm, after which the dimethicone was removed and the container was dried to obtain a powder solid cosmetic product of Comparative Example 2.
  • Example 1 As is clear from the results in Tables 2 and 3, the powder solid cosmetic preparation of Example 1, which was prepared by dispersing a moisturizer in oil, was found to have better results in appearance evaluation and usability than cosmetics prepared by other methods.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un produit cosmétique solide pulvérulent qui contient un agent humectant, qui est en mesure de réduire ou de supprimer la formation de gouttelettes d'eau, et qui présente une excellente facilité d'utilisation.　Un procédé de fabrication d'un produit cosmétique solide pulvérulent selon la présente invention comprend : la préparation d'une partie en phase huileuse qui contient un humectant et un composant huileux, la préparation de la partie en phase huileuse comprenant le mélange des composants constituant la partie en phase huileuse pour former une dispersion dans laquelle l'humectant est dispersé dans le composant huileux ; et le mélange de la partie en phase huileuse et d'une poudre pour former un mélange. Un produit cosmétique solide pulvérulent selon la présente invention contient une poudre, un humectant et un composant huileux, l'humectant étant dispersé dans le composant huileux.
PCT/JP2025/014870 2024-04-30 2025-04-16 Procédé de production d'un matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent et matériau cosmétique solide pulvérulent Pending WO2025229867A1 (fr)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000038317A (ja) * 1998-05-20 2000-02-08 Shin Etsu Chem Co Ltd メークアップ化粧料
JP2021155382A (ja) * 2020-03-30 2021-10-07 株式会社コーセー 粉末化粧料
JP2023077409A (ja) * 2021-11-24 2023-06-05 株式会社コーセー 表面処理粉体、及びそれを含有する化粧料

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000038317A (ja) * 1998-05-20 2000-02-08 Shin Etsu Chem Co Ltd メークアップ化粧料
JP2021155382A (ja) * 2020-03-30 2021-10-07 株式会社コーセー 粉末化粧料
JP2023077409A (ja) * 2021-11-24 2023-06-05 株式会社コーセー 表面処理粉体、及びそれを含有する化粧料

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