WO2025222366A1

WO2025222366A1 - Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2025222366A1
Application number: PCT/CN2024/089265
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yong Wang; Nariyoshi YOSHIOKA
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2024-04-23
Filing date: 2024-04-23
Publication date: 2025-10-30
Anticipated expiration: 2026-10-23
Also published as: FR3161354A3

Abstract

It relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and (iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant. It also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUPS FROM KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials using said composition.

BACKGROUD ART

Cleansing the skin or removing makeups from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. In particular, it is very important to consumers of makeup products to have an efficient makeup remover. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products, for example, rinsable anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams, and lotions, are known.

Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup removing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated.

However, some of them exhibit the disadvantages of not foaming and of not conferring a good skin smoothness upon application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic viewpoint.

Meanwhile, some of them deliver a smooth sensation on the skin, but do not have good makeup removability.

Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, which are stable and have improved foam volume, can provide good makeup removability, and deliver a good skin sensory, in particular, skin smoothness.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.

Thus, according to an aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one glycolipid;

(ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and

(iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The composition according to the present invention can result in big foam volume and good makeup removability during application, and deliver a moisturized and smooth sensation on keratin materials, in particular the skin after application.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be set forth in the description that follows, and in part, will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "ranging from... to... " .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

According to an aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:

(i) at least one glycolipid;

(ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and

(iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Glycolipids

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid.

The term “glycolipid” is understood as meaning a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.

The inventors found that glycolipid can work as mild surfactants, so as to care skin, and deliver a not dry and smooth skin finish. And it also works as a foaming booster.

Preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids.

Glucolipids:

The (a) glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (I) :

in which:

- R¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

- p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and

- q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

The glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990) , Technical University ofBraunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane: methanol or chloroform: methanol mixture.

Sophorolipids

The glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (II) :

in which:

- R³ and R⁴ individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

- R⁵ represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl,

- R⁶ represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R⁵ and R⁶ does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R⁷ represents a hydrogen atom and R⁸ represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R⁷ and R⁸, as indicated by formula (III) :

in which:

- R³, R⁴, R⁵ and R⁶ are as defined above,

with the proviso that at least one ofR³ and R⁴ represents an acetyl group.

The sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962) , 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984) , 6 (4) , 225. The resulting product is a mixture ofvarious open-chain sophorolipids and of sophorolipid lactones that may be used in the form of mixtures, or the required form may be isolated.

Use as a sophorolipid is possible, for example the product sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

Trehalolipids

The glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV) :

in which:

- R⁹, R¹⁰ and R¹¹ individually represent a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

The trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Appropriate fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987) , J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991) , Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991) , Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

Cellobiose lipids

The glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V) :

in which:

- R¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

- R¹² represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

- R¹³ represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and

- R¹⁴ represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

The cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986) , Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

Rhamnolipids:

The glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains ofβ-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to one another by an ester bond.

More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI) :

in which:

- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

- n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

- R₁ and R₂, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy- substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated hydrocarbon group.

Thus, when n is equal to 0, the formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

- n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

- R₁ and R₂, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated hydrocarbon group, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.

In the context of the present invention,

- the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereofwith an organic or inorganic cation and especially with a cation selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

- the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules ofwater or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and

- the term “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C₁-C₂₀ alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.

- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

- n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

- R₁ and R₂, which are identical or different, are selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula- (CH₂) _oCH₃, with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII) :

in which:

- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

- n denotes an integer equal to 1,

- R₁ is a- (CH₂) _p-CH₃ radical, with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,

- R₂ is a- (CH₂) _q-CH₃ radical, with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,

and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, such as are defined in Table A below.

The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative way ofwriting in order to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals R₁ and R₂ respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[Table A]

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-C10C10, or one of the salts, solvates and optical isomers thereof.

Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50%by weight and preferably of from 51%to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight ofrhamnolipids.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R₁ represents a- (CH₂) _oCH₃ radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R₂ is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R₁ represents a- (CH₂) ₆CH₃ radical and R₂ a nonenyl radical.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:

- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

- at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R₁ represents a - (CH₂) _oCH₃ radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R₂ is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R₁ represents a - (CH₂) ₆CH₃ radical and R₂ a nonenyl radical.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:

- at least 50%by weight and preferably of from 51%to 85%by weight of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,

- from 0.5%to 25%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

- from 0.5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 3%to 12%by weight, preferably from 5%to 10%by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R₁ represents a - (CH₂) ₆CH₃ radical and R₂ represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight ofrhamnolipids.

As specified above, rhamnolipids are customarily prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art starting from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R.Claus and H. P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. /Biotechnol. (1986) , 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981) , 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

Use may be made, as rhamnolipid, of the one sold under the nameONE by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) .

Advantageously, the glycolipid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %, even more preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkyl sulfosuccinates

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate.

As used herein, alkyl sulfosuccinates include mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinates in the composition according to the present invention are selected from mono-or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl radicals can be present in one molecule of di-alkyl sulfosuccinate, with identical being preferred. The alkyl radicals can be linear, branched or cyclic, and substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the alkyl radicals are branched.

The sulfosuccinates may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts such as amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Non-limiting examples of the di-alkyl sulfosuccinates are diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicapryl sodium sulfosuccinate, didecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, diundecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicocoyl sodium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dipropylheptyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicyclohexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium_dicapryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium didecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dicapryl potassium sulfosuccinate, didecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diundecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl potassium sulfosuccinate, dicocoyl potassium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dipropylheptyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dicyclohexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, with diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.

Non-limiting examples of the mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates are diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetyl sulfosuccinate, disodium coco-sulfosuccinate, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium tridecyl sulfosuccinate, with disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.

Preferably, the sulfosuccinates are chosen from the salts of alkali metals, and more preferably chosen from the sodium salts, including disodium salts for mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and sodium salts for di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from mono-or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.

More preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations.

Even more preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate and a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %, even more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives.

The amphoteric surfactant chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives contains at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made in particular of (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈-C₂₀ alkyl) amido (C₂-C₈ alkyl) betaines and (C₈-C₂₀ alkyl) amido (C₂-C₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Among the (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, mentions may be made of behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename BB/FLA.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the compounds of formulas (A) and (B) below:

R_a-CON (Z) CH_2- (CH₂) _m-N⁺ (R_b) (R_c) (CH₂COO^-) (A)

in which:

R_a represents C₇-C₁₉ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably a heptyl group, a nonyl group, or an undecyl group,

R_b represents C₁-C₄ alkyl, orβ-hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl group,

R_c represents C₁-C₄ alkyl, or carboxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents hydrogen, C₁-C₄ alkyl, hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl, or carboxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl group;

R_a'-CON (Z) CH_2- (CH₂) _m'-N (B) (B') (B)

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX', with X' representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ', -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or hydrogen,

B' represents - (CH₂) _z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing-COOH, -COOZ', -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H, or-CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z',

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents hydrogen, C₁-C₄ alkyl, hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl, or carboxy (C₁-C₄)alkyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine, and preferably from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

R_a' represents a C₇-C₁₉ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil.

The compounds corresponding to formula (A) are preferred.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A) , mentions may be made of cocamidopropyl betaine, for example the product sold under the tradename Dehyton PK 45 by Cognis (BASF) .

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (C) :

R_a”-NH-CH (Y”) - (CH₂) _n-C (O) -NH- (CH₂) _n'-N (R_d) (R_e) (C)

in which:

- R_a” represents a C₇-C₁₉ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a”-C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y” represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ” , -CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃H or the group -CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃-Z”, with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R_d and R_e represent, independently of each other, a C₁-C₄ alkyl, hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl, or carboxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl group; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (C) , mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, even more preferably 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, most preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an oil.

As used herein, the term “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . As the oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.

The oil may be selected from plant oils, synthetic oils and mixtures thereof.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆, preferably C₁₀-C₂₀, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆, preferably C₂-C₁₀ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl palmitates such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, C₁-C₂₆ alkyl, preferably, C₁-C₁₀ alkyl oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from plant oils, ester oils and combinations thereof.

More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from plant oils, C₂-C₁₀ alkyl palmitates, C₂-C₁₀ alkyl myristates, and combinations thereof.

Even more preferably, the compositon according to the present invention comprises at lest one oil selected from sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of at least 10 wt. %, preferably ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt.%, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 40 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water

Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.

Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 85 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 75 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may comprises one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare cleansers.

The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise, for example, one or more of the following additives: pH adjusting agents; additional surfactants; antibacterial agents, fragrances; and thickeners.

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids;

(ii) from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate selected from di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations; and

(iii) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines.

Process and use

The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratin materials.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of multiple emulsion, preferably oil in water emulsion or water in oil in water emulsion, more preferably oil in water emulsion.

It may be used as a daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied on the skin (i.e., face and/or body) , and then rinsed with flush water.

The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.

Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof were listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4

Compositions of invention example (IE. ) 1 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as weight percentages of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition) :

Table 2

Composition of invention example 1 represents the composition of the present invention.

Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise a glycolipid.

Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise an alkyl sulfosuccinate.

Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprises an amphoteric surfactant.

Composition of comparative example 4 comprises disodium laureth sulfosuccinate instead of an alkyl sulfosuccinates.

Preparation process

The compositions were prepared as follows.

All raw materials were mixed and messed up to 100 wt. %by water to obtain a mixture. Next, the mixture was heated up to 60℃ with stirring, and then cooled to 30 ℃.

Evaluation

Stability of each composition prepared above, foam volume, makeup removability and skin sensory delivered thereby were evaluted.

Stability

The stability of each composition above was evaluated immediately after preparation thereof, and was summarized in Table 3.

If there is no water separation, the composition is evaluated as “homogeneous” , otherwise, it is evaluated as “seperated” . Here, the term “separation” means the composition system is not stable, water phase is at least partially separated out of the composition.

Table 3

It can be seen from Table 3 that the composition according to the present invention is stable and in the form of oil in water emulsion.

Foam volume, makeup removability and skin sensory

The compositions obtained were also evaluated by 10 trained volunteers in terms of foam volume, makeup removability, and skin sensory, in particular, skin smoothness, as follows.

A waterproof mascara (Maybelline Sky High) was applied on a forearm and dried for 60 minutes.

1g of each composition of IE. 1 and CE. 1-4 was put on wet hands, then rubbed for 30 rounds, then applied to makeup. Next, 30 rounds rubbing was carried out to melt makeup. Then tap water was added to emulsify and foam to evaluate foam volume. The forearm before and after applying each composition of IE. 1 and CE. 1-4 was compared for evaluation of makeup removability. Then the skin smoothness was evaluated 2 minutes after wash towel off.

Scores within a range of 0-4 were given for foam volume, and scores within a range of 0-5 were given for makeup removability and skin smoothness according to the following standards.

Foam volume

>3, ≤4 : More than half palm

>2, ≤3 : More bubble but less than half palm

>1, ≤2 : Show some bubble

>0, ≤1 : No foaming

Makeup removability

>4, ≤5 : Almost all make up removed

>3, ≤4 : Some makeup removed but some makeup remains

>2, ≤3 : Half make up removed

>1, ≤2 : Slightly removed

>0, ≤1 : Not removed

Skin sensory

>4, ≤5 : Very moisturized smooth

>3, ≤4 : Smooth

>2, ≤3 : slightly rough

>1, ≤2 : Rough

>0, ≤1 : Dry, tight, stopping sensation.

The scores for foam volume, makeup removability and skin smoothness were given by the 10 volunteers, and averaged and rounded, then summarized in Table 4.

Table 4

NA: not evaluated.

It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition according to the present invention can result in a big foam volume and good makeup removability, and deliver a very moisturized and smooth sensation on the skin.

Claims

A composition, preferably for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one glycolipid;

(ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and

(iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobioselipids, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the glycolipid is selected from mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI) :

in which:

- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

- n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

- R₁ and R₂, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated hydrocarbon groups.
The composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the glycolipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %, even more preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from mono-or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions; preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %, even more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives; preferably selected from (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, even more preferably 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, most preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids;

(ii) from 1 wt. %to 7 wt. %of at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate selected from di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations; and

(iii) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamido (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaines.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising an oil, preferably the oil is selected from plant oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from plant oils, C₂-C₁₀ alkyl palmitates, C₂-C₁₀ alkyl myristates, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably selected from sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of claims 10, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 40 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising water, preferably in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 85 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 75 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is in the form of emulsion, preferably oil in water emulsion or water in oil in water emulsion, more preferably oil in water emulsion.
A non-therapeutic process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.