[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2025214662A1 - Shampooing pour soins capillaires contenant de la polylysine - Google Patents

Shampooing pour soins capillaires contenant de la polylysine

Info

Publication number
WO2025214662A1
WO2025214662A1 PCT/EP2025/055814 EP2025055814W WO2025214662A1 WO 2025214662 A1 WO2025214662 A1 WO 2025214662A1 EP 2025055814 W EP2025055814 W EP 2025055814W WO 2025214662 A1 WO2025214662 A1 WO 2025214662A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair care
hair
care shampoo
epsilon
polylysine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/055814
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Scheunemann
Jessica Welzel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of WO2025214662A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025214662A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the invention relates to hair care shampoos based on specific amounts of epsilon-polylysine and anionic surfactants, which are essentially free of chemically modified polymers.
  • the invention further relates to the use of the hair care shampoos to improve the care properties of hair, in particular to improve detangling, combability, smoothness, shine, volume, and the sensory properties of hair.
  • Hair shampoos typically contain (usually anionic) surfactants, which, depending on the type and amount of surfactant(s), remove not only dirt and sebum, but also lipids and proteins from the hair and/or scalp with each cleansing process. This can cause damage to the hair structure and/or dryness of the scalp, particularly with frequent cleansing. This can manifest itself visually or haptically, for example, in a lack of shine and/or smoothness of the hair, a dull feeling of hair, the appearance of split ends and/or hair breakage, and an irritated and/or itchy scalp.
  • Damage to the hair structure or hair fibers, especially split ends and/or hair breakage, can also be further aggravated by environmental influences (such as intense sunlight), mechanical stress (such as combing under the heat of a hairdryer) and chemical influences (such as dyeing, shaping or straightening the hair).
  • environmental influences such as intense sunlight
  • mechanical stress such as combing under the heat of a hairdryer
  • chemical influences such as dyeing, shaping or straightening the hair.
  • hair shampoos have often been enriched with conditioning ingredients, usually combinations of silicone oils and cationic polymers. This primarily smoothed hair and made it easier to comb. Cationic polymers also have an antistatic effect on hair fibers.
  • shampoos containing silicones can often only be satisfactorily stabilized by adding other synthetic polymers.
  • the objective of this application was to provide hair care shampoos with high care performance that ensure an optimal balance between gentle yet thorough cleansing, long-lasting and sustainable care of the scalp and hair, and good tolerability. Ideally, the supporting effect of chemically modified polymers should be avoided.
  • Epsilon-polylysine is a biotechnologically derived multifunctional active ingredient that has so far been used primarily in Asia as a preservative or as a component of preservative mixtures. Furthermore, epsilon-polylysine is known for its excellent anti-dandruff efficacy, especially in combination with other anti-dandruff active ingredients (e.g., from DE 102011079536, DE 102011079540, DE 102011077067).
  • a further advantage of the hair care shampoos according to the invention is that additional care components—such as silicones—can be optionally added without requiring stabilization by chemically modified polymers, especially polymers containing (meth)acrylic units.
  • additional care components such as silicones
  • silicones can be optionally added without requiring stabilization by chemically modified polymers, especially polymers containing (meth)acrylic units.
  • silicones did not lead to undesirable weighting of the hair after regular use of hair care shampoos based on epsilon-polylysine and anionic surfactants.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a hair care shampoo which contains in a cosmetic carrier - based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo - a) 0.00001 - 1.0 wt.% epsilon-polylysine b) 5.0 - 20 wt.% of at least one anionic surfactant, wherein the hair care shampoo is substantially free of chemically modified polymers.
  • a suitable cosmetic carrier for the hair care shampoos according to the invention is, for example, water or a mixture of water and alcohols.
  • Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerin can serve as the alcoholic component.
  • Ethanol, n-propanol, and isopropanol are preferred lower alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol(s) can be present in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 99:1.
  • Water or aqueous-alcoholic mixtures containing up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 25% by weight, and in particular up to 15% by weight of alcohols (based on the total weight of the alcohol/water mixture) can be preferred cosmetic carriers.
  • substantially free of means that chemically modified polymers are present in the hair care shampoo in less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.005% by weight, more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, and most preferably not at all.
  • “Chemically modified polymers” in the sense of the present invention are understood to mean any chemically modified cationic polymers, even if they are based on natural starting materials such as starch, cellulose or gums.
  • chemically modified polymers in the sense of the present invention are understood to mean any stabilizing and/or thickening polymers that comprise acrylic or methacrylic units.
  • Hair care shampoos according to the invention are preferably substantially free, particularly preferably free, of cationic polymers and/or polymers comprising (meth)acrylic units.
  • Hair care shampoos according to the invention are particularly preferably substantially free or free of cationic polymers falling under the INCI name "Polyquaternium,” cationic guar, starch, or cellulose polymers, and polymers comprising (meth)acrylic units.
  • the hair care shampoos according to the invention contain - based on their total weight - 0.00001 - 1.0 wt.% epsilon-polylysine.
  • epsilon-polylysine is understood to mean an oligo- or homopolymer of the natural amino acid lysine, which is also referred to as epsilon-polylysine due to its linkage in the e-position.
  • epsilon-polylysine in the context of the present invention refers to epsilon-poly-L-lysine. This is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents (such as water). The physiologically acceptable salt and solution forms of epsilon-poly-L-lysine are also suitable for use in the hair care shampoos according to the invention.
  • Epsilon-poly-L-lysine is available by bacterial fermentation, for example from the strain Streptomyces albulus.
  • epsilon-poly-L-lysine Due to its polycationic charge, epsilon-poly-L-lysine has a high affinity for hair fibers, which have a negative net charge.
  • n stands for integers from 2-50.
  • n represents integers from 10-40 and especially from 25-35.
  • epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a linear molecular structure and a specific average molecular weight in the range of 200 - 7,500 g/mol, more preferably 1,000 - 6,000 g/mol and in particular 3,500 - 5,500 g/mol.
  • epsilon-poly-L-lysine Compared to polylysine with a dendritic structure, epsilon-poly-L-lysine, with its previously defined linear molecular structure, can deposit better on the hair fibers and even penetrate deeper into the cuticle and outer hair cortex. This not only achieves a smoothing, detangling, and conditioning effect on the outer hair fibers, but also, to a certain extent, repairs and/or strengthens the inner structure of the hair fiber.
  • Epsilon-polylysine is preferably used in the hair care shampoos according to the invention within narrower quantity ranges.
  • a particularly suitable amount of epsilon-poly-L-lysine (based on the total weight of the Hair care shampoos) is 0.00005 - 0.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.0005 - 0.3 wt.%, very particularly preferably 0.001 - 0.25 wt.% and in particular 0.005 - 0.1 wt.%.
  • the hair care shampoos according to the invention contain - based on their total weight - 5.0 - 20.0 wt.% of at least one anionic surfactant.
  • anionic surface-active substances suitable for cosmetic use on the human or animal body are suitable as anionic surfactants (or emulsifiers). These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.
  • Suitable anionic surfactant types that can be used in the hair care shampoos according to the invention include, for example: linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),
  • Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (sarcosinate surfactants), acyltaurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (taurate surfactants), acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (isethionate surfactants), acylglutamates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (glutamate surfactants), sulfosuccinic acid mono- and/or dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups (sulfosuccinate surfactants), alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms (alpha-olefin sulfonate sur
  • R 1 preferably represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X
  • n represents numbers from 0 to 10
  • X represents hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the group - NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another representing a Ci to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
  • Preferred for use in the hair care shampoos according to the invention are physiologically acceptable salts of alkyl (ether) sulfates, ether carboxylic acids, sarcosinates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one anionic surfactant b preferably at least one physiologically acceptable salt of alkyl (ether) sulfates, ether carboxylic acids, sarcosinates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, and particularly preferably at least one physiologically acceptable salt of alkyl (ether) sulfates, is used in the hair care shampoos according to the invention preferably within narrower quantity ranges.
  • a particularly suitable amount of at least one anionic surfactant b) as defined above (based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo) is 6-17.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 7-15 wt.%.
  • the synergistic hair care effect of epsilon-polylysine and anionic surfactants in a cosmetic carrier - preferably containing predominantly water - is particularly significant when the hair care shampoo according to the invention has a pH in the range of preferably 2.5 - 7, more preferably 3 - 6 and in particular 3.5 - 5.5.
  • any acid or base suitable for cosmetic purposes can be used.
  • food acids are those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • food acids include acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid, and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and/or lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-ethylenediamine.
  • the hair care shampoos according to the invention contain, in addition to the at least one anionic surfactant b), 0 - 15%, particularly preferably 0.25 - 12.5% and in particular 0.5 - 10% of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and/or one non-ionic surfactant (based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo).
  • Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants carry both a cationic and an anionic charge in the molecule.
  • amphoteric surfactants have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO- or -SO5" group, in addition to a preferably C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, in the molecule. Furthermore, they are capable of forming internal salts.
  • amphoteric surfactants are betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropy
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine Lauramidopropyl Betaine
  • Cocoampho(di)acetate and/or Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants known as lauroapho(di)acetates.
  • Suitable non-ionic surfactants and/or emulsifiers can be selected from amine oxides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, fatty acid alkanolamides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamide MEA and Coamide DEA, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols such as the commercially available product Montanov®68, sterols such as zoosterols and phytosterols, phospholipids, alkyl (oligo) glycosides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, alkoxylated esters such as the compounds known under the INCI names PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor, polyglycerol esters and/or their salts.
  • amine oxides such as
  • At least one other hair care active ingredient in addition to epsilon-polylysine a), to the hair care shampoos according to the invention in a proportion of 0.01-10 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care shampoo. Amounts used are more preferred, ranging from 0.05-7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.1-6 wt.%, and especially from 0.25-5 wt.%.
  • the at least one hair care active ingredient can preferably be selected from
  • hair care ingredients (I) to (V) to the hair care shampoos according to the invention offers the advantage that, depending on the type and amount of the hair care ingredient(s) (I) to (V), the visually and haptically perceptible external care effects of the hair fibers can be further enhanced.
  • External care effects are understood to include, in particular, increased smoothness, shine, suppleness, volume, and easier combability.
  • Suitable oils (I) are understood to mean natural, mineral or synthetic oils, fats, waxes or mixtures thereof.
  • the group of suitable natural (vegetable) oils typically includes triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, tamanu oil, perilla oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, murumuru butter, and/or shea butter.
  • Mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, and synthetic hydrocarbons are particularly used.
  • An example of a suitable hydrocarbon is the commercially available 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) or mixtures of medium-chain alkanes (such as Cetiol® Ultimate).
  • a dialkyl ether can also serve as a suitable oil component.
  • Suitable dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether, and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether,
  • Silicone compounds may also be considered as synthetic oils.
  • Suitable silicones can be selected from:
  • polyalkylsiloxanes polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which are volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain or cyclic, branched or unbranched;
  • grafted silicone polymers with a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not containing silicone, to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at at least one chain end;
  • grafted silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone to which non-silicone-containing organic monomers have been grafted comprising a polysiloxane main chain to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at at least one of its ends;
  • Fats include fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form or liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids with 6 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 - 22 carbon atoms.
  • Fatty alcohols that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, e or unbranched fatty alcohols with C10-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22 carbon atoms.
  • Natural or synthetic waxes that can be used include solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, hardened waxes such as hydrogenated castor oil, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, and microwaxes made of PE or PP.
  • Ester oils which are esters of C-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • Examples of particularly suitable ester oils are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-C18 alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), cetyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate Z-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl rucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), Hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acylate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols such as glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsatur
  • the weight proportion of oils, fats and/or waxes in the total weight of the hair care shampoos can be 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 5 wt.%.
  • Hair care shampoos according to the invention preferably contain essentially no silicones. "Essentially none” in this context is to be understood in the same way as previously described.
  • protein hydrolysates (II) are understood to be degradation products of proteins produced by acidic, basic, or enzymatic reactions. Due to the production process, protein hydrolysates exhibit a molecular weight distribution.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates (II) can be of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin.
  • Preferred protein hydrolysates of plant origin can be selected from the group consisting of soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda), and Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss.
  • Preferred protein hydrolysates of animal origin can be selected from the group consisting of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), ProSina® (Croda), and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Preferred protein hydrolysates of marine origin can be selected from the group consisting of collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, protein hydrolysates from mussels, and pearl hydrolysates.
  • pearl extracts are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
  • Particularly preferred protein hydrolysates (II) are:
  • cationized protein hydrolysates within the meaning of the present invention are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates (II), wherein the underlying protein hydrolysate originates from the same sources as previously stated.
  • the weight proportion of protein hydrolysates (II) in the total weight of the hair care shampoo according to the invention can be 0 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 2.5 wt.%.
  • proteolipids (III) are compounds of the general formula
  • R' represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated functional hydrocarbon group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (including mixtures of such R' groups as found, for example, in natural products such as coconut oil).
  • R" represents a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolysate
  • Z represents a physiologically acceptable anion
  • - X represents -C(O)O- or -N + (R'"2)-R IV - or -N(R III )R IV - or -C(O)-N(R V )R VI ,
  • R IH -(CH2)X-CH3, where x is 0-22, and R IV represents -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2- or -(CH2)x-, optionally substituted with one or more -OH groups, where x 0-22;
  • each proteolipid has the formula (IVA): where
  • Y stands for -H or -OH.
  • R" may be a protein. Alternatively, R" may be a peptide. R" may also be a protein hydrolysate. Preferably, R" is a protein hydrolysate. Such a protein hydrolysate may be keratin-based, i.e., a keratin hydrolysate. Alternatively, R" may be a plant-based hydrolysate.
  • proteolipids (III) include:
  • the weight proportion of proteolipids (III) in the total weight of the hair care shampoo according to the invention can be 0 to 7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 2.5 wt.%.
  • Amino acids (IV) in the sense of the present invention are understood to mean amino acids as well as physiologically acceptable salts, esters or acyl derivatives of amino acids.
  • (IV) is an amino acid or an amino acid salt.
  • Preferred amino acids (IV) within the meaning of the present invention are alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, creatine, cysteic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures and physiologically acceptable salt forms thereof.
  • Aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, serine, valine, and mixtures and physiologically acceptable salt forms thereof are particularly preferred.
  • Aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and mixtures and physiologically acceptable salt forms thereof may be particularly preferred.
  • the weight proportion of amino acids (IV) in the total weight of the hair care shampoo according to the invention can be 0 to 7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 2.5 wt.%.
  • Suitable vitamins (V) are understood to mean vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives from groups A, B, C, E, F, and H.
  • the group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
  • the vitamin A component can preferably be present in cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others, vitamin B1 (thiamine) and vitamin B2 (riboflavin).
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. Nicotinamide is preferred and can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 1 wt.%, based on the total composition.
  • o Vitamin B5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Within this group, panthenol and/or pantolactone are preferably used.
  • Useful panthenol derivatives are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • the aforementioned compounds of the vitamin B5 type can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-5 wt.%, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-2 wt.% are particularly preferred o Vitamin B1 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) o Vitamin B7 - cf.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C can preferably be used in the cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, in particular ⁇ -tocopherol
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, can preferably be present in the cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.005-1 wt.%, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin F typically refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H typically refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H refers to the compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the common name biotin has since become established.
  • Biotin can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the hair care shampoos according to the invention can particularly preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, and vitamin E acetate are particularly preferred and can be added to the hair care shampoos both individually and in combination in the aforementioned amounts.
  • a repair effect or strengthening of the inner hair fibers can also be achieved or enhanced if, in addition to epsilon-polylysine a), at least one further repair agent is added to the hair care shampoos according to the invention in a proportion of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo. Amounts used are more preferred, ranging from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight, and especially from 0.25 to 5% by weight.
  • the at least one repair agent for hair fibers can preferably be selected from
  • R1-R4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen
  • R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group
  • R1 -R4' are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen
  • R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, excluding R5' and Re' being hydrogen at the same time, the aliphatic hydrocarbon group, the alicyclic hydrocarbon group, the aryl group, the alkylaryl group or the heterocyclic group are substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Suitable compounds of formulas a. and b. are known as mixtures. One possible way to prepare them is disclosed, for example, in patent application US 2017/0007518.
  • At least one compound of formula a. and at least one compound of formula b. are varied in a molar ratio of 0.1:1 to 99.9:1, more preferably 1:99 to 99:1, particularly preferably 20:80 to 80:20.
  • the molar ratio of compounds of formula a. to compounds of formula b. is 40:60 to 60:40.
  • a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate in the aforementioned molar ratios is very particularly preferably used in the hair care shampoos according to the invention.
  • Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, from Ashland under the trade name Fiberhance® bm.
  • R 7 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 8 Formula c. wherein one of the radicals R 7 or R 8 is H and the other is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and
  • X represents -OH, -NH2, -CI, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2)n-CH3, where n represents the numbers 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2)m-OH, where m represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.
  • one of the radicals R 7 , R 8 represents H and the other represents a saturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly preferred compounds of formula (III) are those in which one of the radicals R 7 , R 8 represents H and the other represents a group -(CH2)O-CH3, where O represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
  • one of the radicals R 7 or R 8 is H and the other is a butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl group, in particular a hexyl group.
  • alpha-substituted compounds according to formula c. in which the substituent X represents a hydroxyl or an amino group.
  • X represents a hydroxyl group.
  • Particularly preferred are alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula c., in which
  • R 7 , R 8 represents H or a group -(CH2)o-CH3, where o represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and
  • alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula c. which are selected from alpha-hydroxybutanal, alpha-hydroxypentanal, alpha-hydroxyhexanal, alpha-hydroxyheptanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxybutanone, alpha-hydroxypentanone, alpha-hydroxyhexanone, alpha-hydroxyheptanone, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.
  • alpha-hydroxyoctanal alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.
  • the hair care shampoos according to the invention may further contain one or more active ingredients from one or more of the following groups:
  • Dyes comprising both dyes for coloring the compositions and dyes for coloring hair, comprising oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, natural dyes and mixtures thereof and optionally oxidizing and alkalizing agents, UV filter substances, perfumes, natural thickeners such as cellulose, starch, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan, polygalactomannan, pectin, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, gelatin, alginic acids and their salts, complexing agents such as EDTA
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Pyrithione, Climbazole, Propanediol Caprylate
  • Keratin-reducing agents such as mercaptans, thioglycolate salts, if necessary in combination with ammonia or amines, ceramide propellants
  • Hair care shampoo containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo - a) 0.00001 - 1.0 wt.% epsilon-polylysine b) 5.0-20 wt. % of at least one anionic surfactant, characterized in that the hair care shampoo is substantially free of chemically modified polymers.
  • Hair care shampoo according to statement 1 which is substantially free of cationic polymers and/or polymers comprising (meth)acrylic units.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) has a linear molecular structure.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) is selected from epsilon-poly-L-lysine with a linear molecular structure comprising 2 to 50 lysine units. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) is selected from epsilon-poly-L-lysine with a linear molecular structure comprising 10 to 40 lysine units.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) is selected from epsilon-poly-L-lysine with a linear molecular structure, comprising 25 to 35 lysine units. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) has an average molecular weight in the range of 200 - 7,500 g/mol. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) has an average molecular weight in the range of 1,000 - 6,000 g/mol.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements wherein the epsilon-polylysine a) has an average molecular weight in the range of 3,500 - 5,500 g/mol.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements containing epsilon-polylysine a) in a weight proportion of 0.00005 - 0.5 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care shampoo.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements containing epsilon-polylysine a) in a weight proportion of 0.0005 - 0.3 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care shampoo.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements containing epsilon-polylysine a) in a weight proportion of 0.001 - 0.25 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care shampoo.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements containing epsilon-polylysine a) in a weight proportion of 0.005 - 0.1 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care shampoo.
  • the at least one anionic surfactant b) is selected from physiologically acceptable salts of Alkyl (ether) sulfates, ether carboxylic acids, sarcosinates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, and mixtures thereof. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant b) is selected from physiologically acceptable salts of alkyl (ether) sulfates.
  • Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements containing the at least one anionic surfactant b) in a weight proportion of 6-17.5 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, containing the at least one anionic surfactant b) in a weight proportion of 7-15 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair care shampoo. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, which has a pH in the range of 2.5-7. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, which has a pH in the range of 3 - 6. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, which has a pH in the range of 3.5 - 5.5. Hair care shampoo according to one of the preceding statements, containing - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one further hair care active ingredient other than a), selected from the group of
  • the effort required to comb wet hair strands was measured.
  • the hair strands were treated with a medium bleaching agent and then combed while wet.
  • the combing forces applied were recorded.
  • the hair strands were treated with the respective test formulation (see Table 1) (10 minutes, 0.5 g of the respective formulation per g of hair), and then each hair strand was rinsed with 1 liter of water (38°C) for 1 minute.
  • the measured values of an untreated strand of hair were compared with those of a strand treated as described.
  • compositions according to the invention significantly improve wet combability.
  • reference shampoo 2 contains neither epsilon-poly-L-lysine nor a cationic polymer; the inventive formulations 3-6 comprise varying amounts of epsilon-poly-L-lysine (3: 0.08 wt.%; 4: 0.15 wt.%; 5: 0.5 wt.%; 6: 1 wt.%), and formulation 7 comprises 0.2 wt.% of the cationic polymer Jaguar® Excel (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride).
  • prepared hair strands were evaluated by 13 trained individuals under standardized conditions (white light + additional spotlight at 21 °C and approximately 25% relative humidity).
  • the products tested were, as described under a), a reference shampoo to which 0.08 wt.% epsilon-poly-L-lysine was added in one test and 0.5 wt.% epsilon-poly-L-lysine in another test.
  • the second comparison shampoo corresponds to the reference shampoo, to which 0.2 wt.% of the cationic polymer Jaguar® Excel (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) was added instead of epsilon-poly-L-lysine.

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un shampooing pour soins capillaires à base de quantités spécifiques d'ε-polylysine et de tensioactifs anioniques. Le shampooing pour soins capillaires permet en particulier d'améliorer le démêlage, la peignabilité, la douceur au toucher et les propriétés sensorielles des cheveux.
PCT/EP2025/055814 2024-04-08 2025-03-04 Shampooing pour soins capillaires contenant de la polylysine Pending WO2025214662A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102024203174.7 2024-04-08
DE102024203174.7A DE102024203174A1 (de) 2024-04-08 2024-04-08 Haarpflegeshampoo enthaltend Polylysin

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2025214662A1 true WO2025214662A1 (fr) 2025-10-16

Family

ID=94924739

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2025/055814 Pending WO2025214662A1 (fr) 2024-04-08 2025-03-04 Shampooing pour soins capillaires contenant de la polylysine

Country Status (2)

Country Link
DE (1) DE102024203174A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2025214662A1 (fr)

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102011077067A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2012-12-13 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus å-Polylysin (Epsilon-Polylysin) und einem odermehreren aromatischen Aldehyden
DE102011079536A1 (de) 2011-07-21 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Tensidsiches Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Poly-L-Lysin II
DE102011079540A1 (de) 2011-07-21 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Leistungsgesteigerte Wirkstoffkombination und Haarbehandlungsmittel gegen Schuppen I
CN103445983A (zh) * 2013-06-19 2013-12-18 天津科技大学 一种新型生物杀菌洗手液
KR20160128250A (ko) * 2015-04-28 2016-11-07 주식회사 엘지생활건강 모발 강화용 화장료 조성물
US20170007518A1 (en) 2015-07-10 2017-01-12 Hercules Incorporated Method of strengthening hair fibers and protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out
WO2023110225A1 (fr) * 2021-12-14 2023-06-22 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'hinokitiol

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115337212B (zh) 2021-10-29 2024-08-20 博汇美萃生物工程技术(广东)有限公司 一种用于止痒、去屑、控油的组合物及其应用

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102011077067A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2012-12-13 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus å-Polylysin (Epsilon-Polylysin) und einem odermehreren aromatischen Aldehyden
DE102011079536A1 (de) 2011-07-21 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Tensidsiches Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Poly-L-Lysin II
DE102011079540A1 (de) 2011-07-21 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Leistungsgesteigerte Wirkstoffkombination und Haarbehandlungsmittel gegen Schuppen I
CN103445983A (zh) * 2013-06-19 2013-12-18 天津科技大学 一种新型生物杀菌洗手液
KR20160128250A (ko) * 2015-04-28 2016-11-07 주식회사 엘지생활건강 모발 강화용 화장료 조성물
US20170007518A1 (en) 2015-07-10 2017-01-12 Hercules Incorporated Method of strengthening hair fibers and protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out
WO2023110225A1 (fr) * 2021-12-14 2023-06-22 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'hinokitiol

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102024203174A1 (de) 2025-10-09

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
DE102015223817A1 (de) Leistungsstarke Haarbehandlungsmittel mit strukturstärkendem-Effekt
DE102015223832A1 (de) Leistungsstarke Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Anti-Auswasch-Effekt
DE102017212401A1 (de) Haarreinigungsmittel
EP2248509A2 (fr) Champoings doux pour les cheveux et le cuir chevelu et conditionneur
DE102016218999A1 (de) Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016218984A1 (de) "verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz"
EP3952831B1 (fr) Shampoing à rinçage rapide
EP2429484B1 (fr) Soin capillaire contenant des sels d'acétylpyridinium
DE102016219005A1 (de) Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
EP1675564A1 (fr) Produits contenant de la valeriane
WO2025214662A1 (fr) Shampooing pour soins capillaires contenant de la polylysine
DE102016218989A1 (de) verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016219000A1 (de) verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102015223839A1 (de) Leistungsstarke Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Anti-Auswasch-Effekt
DE102014224771A1 (de) Pflegendes Haarshampoo mit Flex-Kontrolle
DE102015223847A1 (de) Leistungsstarke Haarbehandlungsmittel mit strukturstärkendem Effekt
DE102015223835A1 (de) Leistungsstarke Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Anti-Auswasch-Effekt
DE102023208972A1 (de) Verfahren zur Reparatur von Haarschäden und zur Kräftigung der inneren Haarstruktur
DE102023211792A1 (de) Polyepoxysuccinsäure(salze) in kosmetischen Mitteln für die Behandlung von Haaren
DE102023211791A1 (de) Verfahren zur Reparatur von Haarschäden und zur Kräftigung der inneren Haarstruktur
DE102016219009A1 (de) Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016218998A1 (de) verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016219004A1 (de) verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102023202565A1 (de) Catecholderivate zur Behandlung von Alterungserscheinungen der Haare und/oder der Kopfhaut
DE102016218994A1 (de) Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 25710436

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1