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WO2025133975A1 - Formulation nettoyante pour cheveux - Google Patents

Formulation nettoyante pour cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2025133975A1
WO2025133975A1 PCT/IB2024/062900 IB2024062900W WO2025133975A1 WO 2025133975 A1 WO2025133975 A1 WO 2025133975A1 IB 2024062900 W IB2024062900 W IB 2024062900W WO 2025133975 A1 WO2025133975 A1 WO 2025133975A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
surfactant
hair
cleansing formulation
alkyl
hair cleansing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
PCT/IB2024/062900
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English (en)
Inventor
Ana Carolina NOGUEIRA BRAVERMAN
Daniel KNATZ
Frank C. Sun
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Kenvue Brands LLC
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Kenvue Brands LLC
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Publication date
Priority claimed from US18/985,257 external-priority patent/US20250205137A1/en
Application filed by Kenvue Brands LLC filed Critical Kenvue Brands LLC
Publication of WO2025133975A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025133975A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair cleansers or shampoos
  • the hair cleanser should prepare the hair for combing, reduce the hair breakage, reduce hair split ends, and provide volume and softness to the dried hairs.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates values extracted from the ATR-FTIR spectra for the total lipid content of example formulations as described herein
  • the hair cleansing formulation comprises a surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 10%, in weight %, of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein active materials present in the sur
  • a method of manufacturing the hair cleansing formulation includes mixing the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant to an aqueous solution of the cationic polymer to obtain a first solution, adding the anionic surfactant to the first solution and mixing until homogenous to obtain a second solution, adding an aqueous premix of the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer comprising from 1% to 10% water to the second solution and mixing until fully dissolved.
  • a method of treating human hair includes applying, to the human hair, the hair cleansing formulation as described herein.
  • the present disclosure provides a hair cleansing formulation comprising a surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 10%, in weight %, of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein
  • a ratio of the active materials between the amphoteric surfactant, the anionic surfactant and the non ionic surfactant is in the range of (2-3):(0.5-1.5):(0.5-1.5).
  • the amphoteric surfactant is an amphocarboxylate selected among alkylamphoacetates; an alkylbetaines; an amidoalkyl betaines; an amidoalkyl sultaines; an amphophosphates; a phosphorylated imidazolines selected among phosphobetaines and pyrophosphobetaines; a carboxy alkyl alkyl polyamines; an alkylimino-dipropionates; an alkylamphoglycinates; an alkylamphoproprionates; a N-alkyl P-aminoproprionic acids; an alkylpolyamino carboxylates; and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is selected among: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl amidoethercarboxylates, alkyl succinates, fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl amino acids, fatty acyl laurates, fatty alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, and mixtures of two or more thereof.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected among fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant mixture further comprises: 40% to70%, of the anionic surfactant, 10% to 40% of the amphoteric surfactant, and 9% to 35%, of the non ionic surfactant; expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture.
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% of the hair cleansing formulation, in weight %.
  • the present disclosure provides a hair cleansing formulation comprising a surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer, wherein the superhydrophilic amphilphilic copolymer includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca and modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer; and water.
  • the active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 10%, in weight %, of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the formulations described herein contain water as a cosmetically-acceptable carrier.
  • the term “cosmetically-acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is suitable for use in contact with the skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and the like.
  • Water may be present in an amount ranging from about 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, or 90 % to about 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 or 95% by weight of the total composition. In some examples, water is present in an amount ranging from about 70% to about 90%, about 75% to about 85 % by weight of the total composition.
  • a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride means a polysaccharide based on starch (derived from potato or tapioca), wherein said polysaccharide has been modified by esterification with dodecenyl succinic anhydride to convert some of the hydrophilic units of the polysaccharide into amphiphilic units, to provide the said starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride.
  • This starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride may be added to a carrier, such as a cosmetically-acceptable carrier.
  • active materials means the chemical entities providing a technical effect, for example a surfactant molecule, other than water. Most of the raw materials purchased from suppliers in liquid form were in an aqueous solution or suspension. When specified, and to avoid any confusion, the present disclosure refers to the weight % of active molecules, surfactant molecules for example, therefore specifically excluding the water content of the raw materials, for example surfactants, for the determination of the weight % of ingredient present in the formulation according to the disclosure.
  • Active materials present in the surfactant mixture may amount for at least 11%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation. In some examples, the active materials present in the surfactant mixture may amount for at least 12%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation. In some examples, the active materials present in the surfactant mixture may amount for less than 15%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation. In some examples, the active materials present in the surfactant mixture may amount for less than 14%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation. In some examples, the active materials present in the surfactant mixture may amount for less than 13%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation.
  • a ratio of the active materials between the amphoteric surfactant, the anionic surfactant and the non ionic surfactant may be in the range of (2-3):(0.5-1.5):(0.5-1.5).
  • the amphoteric surfactant may be an amphocarboxylates selected among mono or di alkylamphoacetates; an alkylbetaines; an amidoalkyl betaines; an amidoalkyl sultaines; an amphophosphates; a phosphorylated imidazolines selected among phosphobetaines and pyrophosphobetaines; a carboxy alkyl alkyl polyamines; an alkylimino-dipropionates; a mono or di alkylamphoglycinates; a mono or di alkylamphoproprionates ; a N-alkyl P-aminoproprionic acids; an alkylpolyamino carboxylates; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amphoteric surfactant is selected among amidoalkyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine. In some examples, the amphoteric surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 10% to 40 % of the surfactant mixture active materials, in weight %. In some examples, the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 30% of the surfactant mixture active materials, in weight %; or from 20% to 25%, or from 22% to 24%.
  • the anionic surfactant is selected among: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl amidoethercarboxylates, alkyl succinates, fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl amino acids, fatty acyl laurates, fatty alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, and mixtures of two or more thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is selected among fatty acyl amino acids such as fatty acyl taurate.
  • the anionic surfactant may be Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.
  • the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 40% to 75% of the surfactant mixture active materials, in weight %.
  • the anionic surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 40% to 65% of the surfactant mixture active materials, in weight %; or from 45% to 60%, or from 50% to 55%, or from 51% to 52%
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected among: fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, long chain alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Long chain alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides means the condensation products of (a) a long chain alcohol containing from about 6 to about 22, and preferably from about 8 to about 14 carbon atoms, with (b) glucose or a glucose-containing polymer.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected among alkyl glucosides comprising from about 1 to about 6 glucose residues per molecule of alkyl glucoside.
  • the glucoside is decyl glucoside.
  • the non-ionic surfactant may be decyl glucoside.
  • Non-ionic surfactants such as alkyl glucosides are particularly beneficial in hair cleansing formulations because they are mild to the skin and eyes and they derived from natural ingredients thus are renewable. Mildness is defined herein as the ability of a product to be applied to the skin or hair of a user with a low or negligible level of irritation. Skin and/or eye mildness of the composition of the disclosure may be determined using one or more of tests such as EpiDermTM Skin Model (MatTek Corporation, Ashland, MA), Viability Assay, IL- la Immunoassay, and EpiOcularTM Human Cell Construct Kit (MatTek Corporation, Ashland, MA) described in WO20 18/204752.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 9% to 35% of the surfactant mixture active materials, in weight %. In some examples, the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 30%, or from 20% to 30%, or from 23% to 28%, or from 25% to 28%.
  • the surfactant mixture further comprises from 40% to70%, of the anionic surfactant, from 10% to 40% of the amphoteric surfactant, and from 9% to 35% of the non ionic surfactant; expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture. The proportion above relates to active materials present in the surfactant mixture.
  • the surfactant mixture comprises from 40% to 65% of the anionic surfactant, from 20% to 30% of the amphoteric surfactant, and from 10% to 30% of the non ionic surfactant; expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture; or from 45% to 60% of the anionic surfactant, from 20% to 30% of the amphoteric surfactant, and from 20% to 30% of the non ionic surfactant, or from 50% to 55% of the anionic surfactant, from 20% to 25% of the amphoteric surfactant, and from 23% to 28% of the non ionic surfactant or from 51% to 52% of the anionic surfactant, from 22% to 24% of the amphoteric surfactant, and from 25% to 26% of the non ionic surfactant; wherein all % are expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture and relate to active materials present in the surfactant mixture.
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% of the hair cleansing formulation, in weight %.
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is a Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate.
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% of the hair cleansing formulation, in weight %; or from 0.3% to 1%, or from 0.4% to 0.5%.
  • the weight % refers to superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer active material content. In other words, excluding the water content of the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer raw material.
  • a ratio of the active materials from the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer relative to the active materials present in the surfactant mixture may be from 1:20 to 1:35. In some examples, the ratio of the active materials from the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer relative to the active materials present in the surfactant mixture is from 1:25 to 1:30, or from 1:27 to 1:30, or from 1:28 to 1:29.
  • the cationic polymer is selected among polymers of Hydroxypropyltrimonium; Polyquaternium such as Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium- 11 , Polyquaternium- 14, Polyquaternium- 15, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44; Polyquaternium-76; silicones and silicone derivatives such as cationically modified dimethicone polymers or copolymers.
  • Polyquaternium such as Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium- 11 , Polyquaternium- 14, Polyquaternium- 15, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44
  • Polyquaternium-76 silicones and silicone derivatives such as cationically modified dimethicone polymers or copolymers.
  • the cationic polymer is selected among Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, or mixtures thereof.
  • the active material amount of cationic polymer present in the hair cleansing formulation is from 0.1% to 1%, in weight % of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the active materials ratio of cationic polymer to surfactant mixture is from 1:20 to 1 :80.
  • the active materials ratio of cationic polymer relative to the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is from 1:0.9 to 1:2.5.
  • the hair cleansing formulation may further comprise at least one hair conditioner.
  • the at least one hair conditioner may be selected among cationic surfactants having a conditioning effect, such as Cetrimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium Chloride); cationic polymers having a conditioning effect, such as cationically-modified polysaccharides, including Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and cationic polymers derived from the (co)polymerization of ethylenically- unsaturated cationic monomers with optional hydrophilic monomers, including Polyquaternium- 5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium- 11 , Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44; Polyquaternium- 5, Polyquaternium-6,
  • the hair cleansing formulation further comprises at least one hair conditioner selected among: PEG-7 Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-6, Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate, and combinations thereof.
  • the hair cleansing formulation according of the present disclosure comprises a cationic polymer having hair conditioning properties.
  • the cationic polymer is different and separate from the optional hair conditioner.
  • the hair cleansing formulation according to the present disclosure system for hair care includes a cationic polymer and may also comprise a hair conditioner. Where both the cationic polymer and the hair conditioner are present simultaneously in the hair cleansing formulation their chemical structures are different. In other words, the cationic polymer of the hair cleansing formulation is not the hair conditioner of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the hair cleansing formulation comprises the surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: 20 to 25% of an amidoalkyl betaines, 50 to 55% of a fatty acyl taurate, and 23 to 28% of an alkyl glucoside; the starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; the at least one cationic polymer selected from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or mixture thereof; and water.
  • the active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 10%, at least 11%, or at least 12%, in weight %, of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the hair cleansing formulation comprises the surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: 20 to 25% of the amphoteric surfactant, wherein the amphoteric surfactant may be cocamidopropylbetaine, 50 to 55% of the anionic surfactant, wherein the anionic surfactant may be Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, and 23 to 28% of the nonionic surfactant, wherein the non-ionic surfactant may be decyl glucoside; a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer selected from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyl trimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or mixture thereof; and water.
  • the active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 12%, in weight %
  • the present disclosure provides a method of manufacturing the hair cleansing formulation as described herein.
  • the method comprises mixing the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant to an aqueous solution of the cationic polymer to obtain a first solution, adding the anionic surfactant to the first solution and mixing until homogenous to obtain a second solution, adding an aqueous premix of the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer comprising from 1% to 10% water to the second solution, and mixing until fully dissolved.
  • the method comprises mixing, at a temperature above 60°C, the nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant to the aqueous solution of cationic polymer, to obtain the first solution, adding, at a temperature equal or below 60°C, the anionic surfactant to the first solution, , and mixing until homogenous to obtain the second solution, adding an aqueous premix of superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer comprising from 1% to 10% water, in weight %, to the second solution and mixing until fully dissolved, to obtain the third solution, and adjusting a pH of the third solution to between 4 and 5.
  • the method further comprises, when adding the anionic surfactant to the first solution, further adding and mixing a pearlizing agent.
  • the method further comprises, when adjusting the pH of the third solution, further adding a hair conditioner.
  • the present disclosure provides a method of treating human hair.
  • the method of treating human hair comprises applying, to the human hair, the hair cleansing formulation according the present disclosure.
  • the method of treating human hair according to the present disclosure may be used in a cosmetic treatment method.
  • the present disclosure provides utilizing the hair cleansing formulation in a method to reduce the split end of human hairs.
  • a method for evaluating the ability to mend or reduce split ends was published by Wright and Szerszen (Ending the Cycle of Split Ends, Cosmetics & Toiletries, November 2011, p804).
  • a moderate degree of partial closure of the hair split ends could be attributed to a 30% to 70% angle closure.
  • a reasonable degree of partial closure could be attributed to an angle closure superior to 70%, however, complete closure of the hair split ends is the most desirable outcome and may also be achieved.
  • the method that reduces the split end of human hairs using the hair cleansing formulation according to the present disclosure may provide at least 86% of split ends that result in an angle closure either superior or equal to the moderate degree of partial closure described herein. In one example, the method that reduces the split end of human hairs using the hair cleansing formulation according to the present disclosure may provide at least 44% split ends that result in complete split ends closure.
  • the term “split ends closure superior or equal to a moderate degree” means that the angle closure of the hair split ends is of at least 30% but may be up to total closure.
  • a method for reducing the breakage of human hairs using the hair cleansing formulation is provided. A method for evaluation hair breakage was published in the scientific literature by Evans & Park, A Statistical Analysis of Hair Breakage. II. Repeated Grooming Experiments, J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 439-455, 2010.
  • the method to reduce the breakage of human hairs using the hair cleansing formulation according to the present disclosure may provide at least a 29% reduction in hair breakage when compared to the control hair cleanser comprising 15%, in weight % of the control hair cleanser, of SLES (sodium lauryl ether sulfate) as surfactant.
  • SLES sodium lauryl ether sulfate
  • Composition El Shampoo was evaluated for its split end closure properties on fibers treated with such composition.
  • Fifty (50) European Medium Brown hair tresses were first damaged and bleached using a 6% hydrogen peroxide solution at pH of 10.2 and left in contact with the bleach solution for 40 minutes under controlled temperature (40°C), followed by repeated brushing to induce split ends which were randomly selected and individually labeled so they can be tracked.
  • Each split end fiber substrate (50 for each composition) was imaged using a 25X stereo microscope before treatment with the composition: applying shampoo composition El at 10% by weight of the tress (O.lml/g of hair) on damp hair, massaging for 30 sec and rinsing for 30 sec. All treatment was performed with an intellifaucet set at 40°C with a controlled flow rate of 1 GPM. The treated hair fiber substrates were then air-dried over-night before taking post-treatment split end images.
  • a grading scale to characterize the level of closure was introduced allowing for an evaluation of the durability, adopting a 5-point grading scale for evaluating the degree to which the split end has been closed.
  • This grading scale shown in Table 3 allows for a more rapid yet accurate assessment of the state of the hair.
  • Example 2B Protection against breakage.
  • Composition El Shampoo was evaluated for their properties of protecting against breakage via repeated grooming on fibers treated with such composition.
  • a method to determine whether a treatment will protect hair against breakage is provided by repeated grooming experiments. (Evans & Park, A Statistical Analysis of Hair Breakage. II. Repeated Grooming Experiments, J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 439-455, 2010). In this test, the number of broken fibers is recorded as a function of repeated combing/brushing strokes. Any treatment that reduces snags, entanglements and abrasion can help in substantially lowering the number of broken fibers.
  • the methodology utilizes a custom-built automated grooming device which consists of a hollow rotating drum-like assembly, where four outer crossbars contain holders for mounting combs or brushes.
  • Example 2C Build-up Removal Testing.
  • Regimen 1 Composition El equal to 10% weight of the tress was applied on the wet tresses for 30 seconds, then rinsed for 30 seconds.
  • the FTIR data were recorded with a spotlight system 400 from PerkinElmer with an ATR accessory.
  • the spectra were recorded with the following spectral parameters: Spectral resolution 8 cm 1 , 8 Scans accumulations, Range 4000-650 cm 1 .
  • Baseline Sebum Sebum is diluted with water in 1 : 10 ratios, 1 part of sebum is mixed with 10 parts of water. 2 g is applied and worked in with mascara brush for 10 strokes, per tress.
  • % Increase in volume [(Area at X hours - Area at Baseline) / (Area at Baseline)] * 100.
  • E2 Shampoo shows a 100% increase in volume after application.
  • E2 Shampoo shows a 97% increase in volume 74 hours after application.
  • Shampoo El, E2, E6, and E7 were evaluated for their dry combing forces and wet coming forces, respectively, treated with such compositions.
  • One of the technical functions of shampoo products is to lubricate the hair surface; and, in doing so, facilitate manageability and provide detangling benefits and lower combing friction.
  • Eight European medium brown hair tress, 6% Bleached hair tresses, (3.0g, 8” length, 1” wide) were used per treatment group. All treatment was performed using an Intellifaucet set at 40°C with a controlled flow rate of 1.0 GPM. All tresses were cleansed with 15% SLES and left overnight to dry before any treatments.
  • Frictional forces experiments were performed in accordance with the method proposed by Garcia & Diaz (JSCC, 27, (1976) 379-398 - Combability Measurements on Hair). Tensile tester was used to measure frictional forces while a hair tress was pulled through a comb. Combing experiments were performed in the wet state after treatment or dry state after treatment. Six combing strokes were performed per tress, while eight replicate hair tresses were used per sample to ensure statistical relevance.
  • compositions El, E2, E6 and E7 exhibit efficacy at reduction in both dry and wet combing force compared to a control treated with a 15% SLES solutions. Composition El and E2 were the most effective for reduction in both dry and wet combing force.
  • compositions E13 and additional comparative examples C6, C7, and C8 were evaluated for gentleness in hair treatment in order to evaluate and compare lipid removal from hair.
  • five (5) Caucasian medium brown hair tresses were used for evaluation. Each tress was eight inches long, one inch wide, and weighed approximately three grams. The tresses were standardized with 0.3 mL of non - conditioning shampoo, massaged, and rinsed under an Intellifaucet for 30 seconds each to prepare for evaluation. Six FTIR spectra were recorded prior to the application of the cleanser.
  • Table 8 includes the formulation for E13 as shown above in addition to Comparative Examples C6, C7, and C8.
  • C6 comprises 15% by weight of Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate in water.
  • E13 includes Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate as a primary surfactant (anionic), includes Decyl Glucoside and Cocamidopropyl Betaine as co-surfactants (amphoteric/cationic/non-ionic), and includes Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate, Amodimethicone, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Hydrogenated Castor Oil as conditioning ingredients.
  • C7 includes Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and Sodium Methyl 2- sulfolaurate as primary surfactants (anionic), includes Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-glucoside, and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate as co-surfactants (amphoteric/cationic/non-ionic), and includes Panthenol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyquaternium-10, Hydrolyzed Silk, and Nymphaea Alba Root Extract as conditioning ingredients.
  • anionic includes Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-glucoside, and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate as co-surfactants (amphoteric/cationic/non-ionic)
  • Panthenol Hydrogenated Castor Oil
  • Polyquaternium-10 Hydrolyzed Silk
  • Nymphaea Alba Root Extract as conditioning ingredients.
  • C8 includes Sodium Cl 4- 16 Olefin Sulfonate as a primary surfactant (anionic), includes Cocamidopropyl Betaine as a co-surfactant (amphoteric/cationic/non-ionic), and includes Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dimethicone, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and Polyquaternium-10 as conditioning ingredients.
  • anionic anionic
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine as a co-surfactant
  • Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dimethicone, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and Polyquaternium-10 as conditioning ingredients.
  • C7 includes hydrogenated castor oil but does not include a mild surfactant, such as Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and a glucoside, in an active amount; while C8 includes hydrogenated castor oil and Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, but includes Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside rather than decyl glucoside (as in E13). While C7 does include Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate as an ingredient, this amount is present in a residual amount and not in sufficient quantity to be an active ingredient. Further, C6, C7, or C8 do not include the Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate which is present in E13.
  • a mild surfactant such as Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and a glucoside
  • E13 is an augmentation of, and contains only slight modifications relative to, El as shown above.
  • El does not include the RTB agents, including but not limited to, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, and Fragrance, that are present in E13.
  • RTB agents including but not limited to, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, and Fragrance, that are present in E13.
  • the treatment application process was as follows. For each application, a cleanser equal to ten % weight of the tress was applied. The cleanser was used on the wet tresses for 60 seconds, left on for 30 seconds, and then rinsed for 30 seconds under Intellifaucet water. The tresses were then blow-dried on medium heat for 5 minutes each to ensure drying. After the tresses were dried, they were scanned by ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to evaluate the lipid removal after ten, twenty, and thirty wash treatments. After each of the tenth, twentieth, and thirtieth was treatments, eighteen FTIR spectra were recorded.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates values extracted from the ATR-FTIR spectra for the total lipid content of example formulations as described herein.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates the decrease in lipid content from the baseline over each of lOx, 20x, and 30x washes for C6 and C7, and an increase in lipid content from the baseline over each of lOx, 20x, and 30x washes for El 3 and C8.
  • Table 9 The results of FIG. 1 are illustrated in Table 9 below.
  • FIG. 1 the unexpected result of an observed stepwise increase in lipid content with each wash application of E13 results in a rise in lipid levels, indicating the persistence of lipids, i.e., the hydrogenated castor oil, on the hair surface attributed to a film deposition of E13 along the hair fibers.
  • This creates a thin and resilient lipid layer, preventing damages related to multiple shampoo applications and further improving the lipid content along the hair fibers. Accordingly, this highlights the prolonged protective effect of E13, contributing to sustained resistance against de-lipidation even after multiple washing cycles.
  • FIG. 1 further illustrates a similar effect, though to a much lesser degree, was observed with C8.
  • C6 does not include any lipids that could be deposited on the hair fibers. Thus, a stepwise increase in lipid content would not be expected based on the application of C6.
  • C7 includes Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine as surfactants, but does not include the Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate in an active amount or a glucoside.
  • each of El 3 and C8 include an active amount of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate as well as glucoside as surfactants, which appear to provide a synergistic effect of the stepwise increase in lipid content with each wash application.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates that E13 presents this increase at a 1.6x greater rate than C8, as measured by the slopes of El and C8.
  • C8 does not include a modified potato starch, such as the Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate, present in El 3 as a conditioning agent, and further includes coco-glucoside rather than decyl glucoside, present in E13.
  • the combination of the Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate and decyl glucoside appears to account for the additional advantage of a 1.6x increase in rate of lipid increase per wash application of El 3 over C8.
  • a hair cleansing formulation comprises a surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 10%, in weight %, of the hair cleansing formulation.
  • the surfactant mixture comprises at least: an amphoteric surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and a non ionic surfactant ; a superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer that includes a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer ; and water; wherein active materials present in the
  • a method of manufacturing the hair cleansing formulation includes mixing the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant to an aqueous solution of the cationic polymer to obtain a first solution, adding the anionic surfactant to the first solution and mixing until homogenous to obtain a second solution, adding an aqueous premix of the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer comprising from 1% to 10% water to the second solution and mixing until fully dissolved.
  • a method of treating human hair includes applying, to the human hair, the hair cleansing formulation as described herein.
  • amphoteric surfactant is an amphocarboxylate selected among alkylamphoacetates; an alkylbetaines; an amidoalkyl betaines; an amidoalkyl sultaines; an amphophosphates; a phosphorylated imidazolines selected among phosphobetaines and pyrophosphobetaines; a carboxy alkyl alkyl polyamines; an alkylimino-dipropionates; an alkylamphoglycinates; an alkylamphoproprionates; a N-alkyl P-aminoproprionic acids; an alkylpolyamino carboxylates; and mixtures thereof;
  • the anionic surfactant is selected among: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl amidoethercarboxylates, alkyl succinates, fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl amino acids, fatty acyl laurates, fatty alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, a taurate, and mixtures of two or more thereof;
  • non-ionic surfactant is selected among: fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof;
  • the surfactant mixture further comprises: 40% to70%, of the anionic surfactant 10% to 40% of the amphoteric surfactant, and 9% to 35% of the non-ionic surfactant; expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture;
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is present in an amount from 0.1 % to 2% of the hair cleansing formulation, in weight %;
  • a ratio of the active materials from the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer relative to the active materials present in the surfactant mixture is from 1:20 to 1:35;
  • the cationic polymer is selected among polymers of Hydroxypropyltrimonium; Polyquaternium; silicones and silicone derivatives; preferably the cationic polymer is selected among Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or mixture thereof;
  • ratio of cationic polymer active materials amount relative to the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer active materials amount is from 1:0.9 to 1 :2.5;
  • the surfactant mixture includes: 20 to 25% of the amphoteric surfactant, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropylbetaine, 50 to 55% of the anionic surfactant, wherein the anionic surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and 23 to 28% of the non-ionic surfactant, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is decyl glucoside; a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; a cationic polymer selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, starch hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxy
  • adding the anionic surfactant to the first solution further comprises adding and mixing a pearlizing agent
  • the anionic surfactant is selected among: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl amidoethercarboxylates, alkyl succinates, fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl amino acids, fatty acyl laurates, fatty alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, and mixtures of two or more thereof.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected among fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant mixture further comprises: 40% to70%, of the anionic surfactant, 10% to 40% of the amphoteric surfactant, and 9% to 35%, of the non ionic surfactant; expressed in weight % of the surfactant mixture.
  • the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer is present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% of the hair cleansing formulation, in weight %.
  • a ratio of the active materials from the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer relative to the active materials present in the surfactant mixture is from 1 :20 to 1 :35.
  • the cationic polymer is selected among polymers of Hydroxypropyl trimonium; Polyquaternium; silicones and silicone derivatives; preferably the cationic polymer is selected among Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or mixture thereof.
  • the ratio of cationic polymer active materials amount relative to the superhydrophilic amphiphilic copolymer active materials amount is from 1:0.9 to 1 :2.5.
  • the formulation further comprises a hair conditioner selected among PEG-7 Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-6, Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate, or mixture thereof.
  • the hair cleansing formulation comprises: the surfactant mixture, wherein the surfactant mixture includes: 20 to 25%, of cocamidopropylbetaine, 50 to 55% of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate , and 23 to 28% of decyl glucoside; a starch-based polysaccharide derived from potato or tapioca modified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride; at least one cationic polymer selected from Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or mixture thereof; and water; wherein active materials present in the surfactant mixture amount for at least 12%, in weight %, of the cleansing formulation.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une formulation nettoyante pour cheveux et son procédé de fabrication. La formulation nettoyante pour cheveux comprend un mélange tensioactif, le mélange tensioactif comprenant au moins : un tensioactif amphotère, un tensioactif anionique et un tensioactif non ionique ; un copolymère amphiphile superhydrophile qui comprend un polysaccharide à base d'amidon dérivé de la pomme de terre ou du tapioca modifié avec de l'anhydride dodecenyl succinique ; au moins un polymère cationique ; et de l'eau. Les matières actives présentes dans le mélange de tensioactifs s'élèvent à moins 10 %, en % en poids, de la formulation nettoyante pour cheveux.
PCT/IB2024/062900 2023-12-20 2024-12-19 Formulation nettoyante pour cheveux Pending WO2025133975A1 (fr)

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US18/985,257 2024-12-18
US18/985,257 US20250205137A1 (en) 2023-12-20 2024-12-18 Hair cleansing formulation

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US20140094395A1 (en) * 2012-09-28 2014-04-03 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Rinse-off skin care compositions containing alkyl amidopropyl betaine surfactants
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WO2018204752A1 (fr) 2017-05-04 2018-11-08 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Compositions nettoyantes améliorées
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