WO2025132572A1

WO2025132572A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, an alkanol, a polyol, azelaic acid and a low content of water

Info

Publication number: WO2025132572A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/087089
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marie-Lise CHIRON; Delphine CHAU-BLANCHET; Phi-Oanh DINH
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-12-20
Filing date: 2024-12-18
Publication date: 2025-06-26
Anticipated expiration: 2026-06-20

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising: - i) one or more oils, in an amount greater than 0.1% and less than 89% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - ii) one or more polyols containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms; - iii) azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof, and solvates thereof or mixtures thereof; - iv) one or more alkanols R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C₂-C₆ alkyl group; and it being understood that the composition comprises water in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, an alkanol, a polyol, azelaic acid and a low content of water

The invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising:

- i) one or more oils, in an amount greater than 0.1% and less than or equal to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- ii) one or more polyols containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms;

- iii) azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof, and solvates thereof or mixtures thereof;

- iv) one or more alkanol(s) R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 alkyl group; and it being understood that the composition comprises water in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular facial and/or bodily skin, comprising the application of said composition to said keratin materials.

Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular for caring for bodily and/or facial skin.

In the field of cosmetic care, cosmetic compositions affording both good sensory properties and a care effect are increasingly sought-after by users.

The term “care effect” means, for example, an effect against the drying out or ageing of keratin materials, notably the skin, this care effect being provided by at least one active agent.

In this respect, azelaic acid proves to be advantageous, in particular this compound is effective in treating skin care problems and notably in combating skin irregularities such as acne, rosacea and/or wrinkles or fine lines.

In addition, oily presentation forms are also increasingly sought-after in the cosmetics field, and more particularly in the field of skincare, notably because they afford nutrition and a silky finish after application.

This type of presentation form has notably been described in patent applications WO 2018/114850 A1 and WO 2018/114787 A1 .

However, azelaic acid has particular physicochemical properties which make it sparingly soluble in compositions and notably in oily media.

It has also been described that alcohols, such as ethanol, render azelaic acid unstable in compositions containing it (see for example WO 2021/212077 A2).

It is therefore difficult to obtain compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, comprising azelaic acid which is dissolved while at the same time retaining the stability of azelaic acid in the compositions, notably in oily presentation forms. Also, it is difficult to obtain stable cosmetic compositions, notably oily presentation forms, containing azelaic acid.

Consequently, there is still a need for oily cosmetic compositions, in particular comprising one or more oils of natural or renewable origin, comprising dissolved azelaic acid which remains stable (no crystallization observed, for example), notably over time (for example at a temperature of between 4°C and 45°C, such as 25°C, for several weeks or even months), and which, after application to keratin materials, have good sensory properties, such as feel. It is also desirable for cosmetic compositions comprising azelaic acid to have an odou r that changes little over time, notably at a temperature of between 4°C and 45°C, such as 25°C.

Consequently, there thus also remains a need for oily cosmetic compositions, in particular comprising oil(s) of natural or renewable origin, which are stable, and which have good sensory properties such as feel after application and which show little change in odour over time.

In this context, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that a mixture of at least one particular polyol and at least one alkanol allows the dissolution and also the stabilization of azelaic acid in an oily medium.

In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and/or that have a good naturalness index and/or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

It has been found, surprisingly, that a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising: i) one or more oils in a particular amount notably greater than 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; ii) one or more polyols containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; iii) azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof, and solvates thereof or mixtures thereof; iv) one or more alkanol(s) and a low water content, affords good azelaic acid stability properties.

The oily composition according to the invention is preferably transparent.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oily composition according to the invention is preferably a one-phase transparent composition.

The composition according to the invention is stable. A composition is said to be stable when its macroscopic appearance (clarity and homogeneity) does not change after at least 24 hours (h) after preparation or manufacture.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

- ii) one or more polyols containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms;

- iv) one or more alkanols R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 alkyl group; and it being understood that the composition comprises water in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, notably to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

It notably comprises a “cosmetically acceptable" medium, also known as a “physiologically acceptable" medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials" means the skin and its integuments.

The term “skin" means human skin, notably of the face and/or body, or the scalp.

The term “integuments" means human keratin fibres, notably the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails and the hair, in particular the eyelashes and the hair.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a composition in accordance with the present invention is applied to said materials.

Moreover, a subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for body or facial skincare.

Optionally, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than or equal to 7% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably an amount of less than or equal to 5% by weight of one or more surfactants, more preferentially an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight of one or more surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1 % by weight of one or more surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, or even the composition is free of surfactants.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “surfactant’ means an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. a molecule having two parts of different polarity, generally one being lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase) and the other hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water).

Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any emulsifying surfactants such as polyoxyethylenated castor oil, oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitol and/or sorbitan such as polysorbates, phospholipids, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-15 stearate, and also lecithin.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any hydroxyethyl urea; more preferentially, the composition does not comprise any urea N-substituted on one or both nitrogen atoms with one or two groups notably chosen from (C1-C6)alkyl optionally substituted with a hydroxyl; better still, the composition does not comprise any N-substituted urea or any unsubstituted urea.

The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than 15% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 12% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight of water, more preferentially less than or equal to 8% by weight of water, better still less than or equal to 6% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than or equal to 4% by weight of water, better still less than or equal to 1 % by weight of water.

The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than or equal to 5% by weight of water, more preferentially less than or equal to 4% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, better still the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight of water better still less than or equal to 1 % by weight of water.

According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 4% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0% to 1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.

The composition according to the invention differs notably from emulsions in that it is not in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible liquids at room temperature (20°C-25°C). Specifically, the composition according to the invention does not have a dispersed phase (also called a discontinuous phase) in the form of droplets in a dispersing phase (also called a continuous phase). Macroscopic analysis (with the naked eye) of the composition according to the invention shows a clear, transparent and homogeneous appearance. In particular, the composition according to the invention has a clear, homogeneous appearance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “clear¹’ refers to a composition having a “transparent’ appearance, and vice versa.

The transparency of the composition may be characterized visually and macroscopically using a conventional commercial test tube made of transparent, untinted borosilicate, sodalime glass or neutral glass such as Pyrex® or Duran® glass, 16 cm tall and 1.6 cm in diameter, which is filled up to 14 cm of said tube (the bottom of the meniscus of the composition in the tube is 14 cm from the bottom of the tube). A page of the published international patent application (in A4 format) is placed behind at a distance of 1 cm; and by placing one's eyes at a distance (reading focal length in relation to the test tube) of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and perpendicular to the middle of the composition in said tube (notably 7 cm from the bottom of said tube), an assessment is made as to whether said page of the published international patent application, notably the first page, can be read distinctly through the composition in said tube. It is understood that the tester has good vision, or that he is equipped with spectacles, contact lenses or any other optical devices that he normally wears for reading. Use may be made, for example, of patent application WO 2018/104 428 and evaluate the sharpness, i.e. the ability to read the 31 lines of page 13 to perform the test or, better still, to perform the reading test on the first page. The transparency of the composition may also be characterized by measuring its transmittance. In the context of the present invention, the transmittance measurements are taken at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm) with a Cary Type 100 scan UV-visible spectrophotometer.

The term “transparent composition” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition exhibiting a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably of less than 150 NTU, preferably of less than 100 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.

The NTU (nephelometric turbidity unit) is the unit of measurement of the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement is performed, for example, with a 21 OOP model turbidimeter from the Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are performed at room temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).

Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 200 NTU, preferably between 1 and 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the appearance of the composition (transparency) is assessed visually and macroscopically.

The composition according to the invention is thus neither opalescent, cloudy nor opaque.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is thus neither opalescent, cloudy, opaque nor two-phase.

Macroscopic visual analysis of the composition according to the invention shows a transparent, single-phase appearance that is stable over time at room temperature, 4°C and 45°C.

The invention also relates to a final cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a composition as described previously (i.e. comprising ingredients i) to iv)). This final composition corresponds notably to the final marketed cosmetic product.

Macroscopic visual analysis of the composition according to the invention shows a transparent appearance and good dissolution of the azelaic acid in the composition, without recrystallization. Azelaic acid also remains stable over time, notably up to 1 month and/or 2 months, at room temperature, 4°C and 45°C.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, notably in the expressions “between..." and “ranging from ... to f}

Moreover, the expression “at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more". i) Oil(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oils i) in an amount greater than 0.1% and less than or equal to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the oil(s) i) are present in a total amount ranging from 1 % to 89% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 87% by weight, even more preferentially from 20% to 85% by weight, better still from 30% to 83% by weight of the total weight amount of oil(s) i) relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “totaf’ means that if there are several oils of different nature, the total weight amount of oils of different nature is considered. For example, if the composition comprises polar non-volatile oils 1a) and volatile oils 1b) and apolar non-volatile oils 2a) and volatile oils 2b), the sum of the weight amounts of 1a)+1b)+2a)+2b) is taken into consideration.

The term “oif’ means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

In particular, the oil(s) that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from polar oils, apolar oils and mixtures thereof; preferably, the oil(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are polar.

1) Polar oil(s)

The oil(s) according to the present invention may be chosen from polar oils.

Preferably the polar oil(s) 1) are present in a total amount of greater than 0.1 % and in a total amount of less than or equal to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferentially, the polar oil(s) 1) are present in a total amount ranging from 1 % to 89% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 87% by weight, even more preferentially from 20% to 85% by weight, better still from 30% to 83% by weight of at least one polar oil 1) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the polar oils that may be used in the present invention, the following may be mentioned: volatile or non-volatile polar oils, these polar oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly of plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and particularly at least one Si-0 group.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oif’ means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, b_a, is other than 0 (J/cm³)’^/2.

In particular, the term “polar oif’ means an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom, preferably oxygen or nitrogen, more preferentially oxygen.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts,

- 5p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

- 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (5p² + 5h²)^1/2. The parameters 5_P, 5h, 5D and 5_a are expressed in (J/cm³)’^/2.

Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 6_a of between 4 and 9.1 , preferably a 6_a of between 6 and 9.1 , better still between 7.3 and 9.1.

The Hansen solubility parameters are calculated using HSPiP software version V4.1 based on a chemical structure; the method selected in the software is Y-MB or Yamamoto- Molecular Break.

This software is available to download from the official Hansen parameter and HSPiP software website at the address www.hansen-solubility.com.

1a) Non-volatile polar oil(s)

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile oif’ means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The non-volatile oils may notably be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluoro oils, and/or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of: a1) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyl-dodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203® by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which comprise at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain including from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; these oils are notably heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; the refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by the company Cognis; a2) synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R¹-C-(O)-OR², in which Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably linear or branched, notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, it being understood that the sum R¹ + R² is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may notably be chosen from especially fatty acid esters, for instance:

- cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters of C8-C18 and preferably C12-C16 fatty acids, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD- DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03/02809; a3) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, said alcohols including at least one branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, even better still from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, a4) higher fatty acids R¹-C(O)-OH with R¹ as defined previously, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, a5) dialkyl carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2, Ri and R2 preferably representing an identical or different saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis, a6) diesters of dicarboxylic acid with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C2-C16 and particularly C8-C12 hydrocarbon-based chain, and of monoalcohol with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably monoalcohol with a branched, saturated C3-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain; more preferentially, a6) is chosen from the diester of sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol, such as diisopropyl sebacate sold under the name DUB DIS by the company Stearinerie Dubois, a7) non-volatile silicone oils, for instance non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are on the side and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and

- mixtures thereof.

1b) Volatile polar oil(s)

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile oil(s)" means one or more oils (or non-aqueous media) that are capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10'³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, notably those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (8 x 10^-6 m²/s), and notably containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil(s) that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used. It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned previously.

Preferably, the oil(s) i) according to the present invention are chosen from polar oils 1), more preferentially non-volatile oils 1a).

2) Apolar oil(s)

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from apolar oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polar oils 1) and one or more apolar oils 2). More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a polar oil 1) and an apolar oil 2).

Preferably, the apolar oil(s) 2) are present in a total amount of greater than 0.1 % and less than or equal to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferentially, the apolar oil(s) 2) are present in a total amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 15% to 45% by weight of apolar oil, or even the composition is free of apolar oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil(s)" means one or more oils whose solubility parameter ba at 25°C as defined above is equal to 0 (J/cm³)’^/2.

Among the apolar oil(s), examples that may be mentioned include:

2a) Non-volatile apolar oil(s)

Hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, ethers containing from 6 to 25 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof, better still dicaprylyl ether.

2b) Volatile apolar oil(s)

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 25 carbon atoms, notably:

- branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®;

- linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the trade names Parafol 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively;

- mixtures of alkanes whose chains comprise from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT®), mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes whose hydrocarbon-based chains comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferentially mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes. - and mixtures thereof;

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil(s) i) are chosen from polar oils 1), more preferentially chosen from a1) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, a2) synthetic esters of formula R¹-C-(O)-O-R² in which R¹ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, it being understood that the sum of R¹ and R² is greater than or equal to 10, a3) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, with a branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, a5) dialkyl carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2; preferably, Ri and R₂ represent an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, a6) diesters of a dicarboxylic acid with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a saturated C2-C16 chain, and of a C1-C4 monoalcohol; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil(s) i) are chosen from triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which comprise at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain including from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of fatty acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, including at least one branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2, R1 and R₂ preferably representing an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; diesters of a dicarboxylic acid with a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C8-C12 hydrocarbon-based chain and of a monoalcohol with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably branched C3-C4 hydrocarbon-based chain, such as diisopropyl sebacate; and mixtures thereof.

The oil(s) i) within the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from triglycerides formed from esters of glycerol and of fatty acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of a fatty acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-Cis hydrocarbon-based chain, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, including at least one branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2, R1 and R₂ preferably representing an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain; better still, the oil(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, even better still octyldodecanol.

Preferentially, the triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids comprise from 50% to 100% by weight of linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated C18 fatty acids, including from 0% to 5% by weight of saturated C18 fatty acids such as stearic acid, from 50% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids such as ricinoleic and/or oleic acids, and/or from 2% to 70% by weight of polyunsaturated C18 fatty acids such as linoleic and/or linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids included in said triglycerides.

Preferably, the triglycerides of glycerol and of C6-C12 fatty acids comprise from 45% to 80% by weight of Cs acids and from 20% to 45% by weight of C10 fatty acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids included in said triglycerides. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil i), preferably at least one polar oil, chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar oil chosen from octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, castor oil, camelina oil, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the polar oil is octyldodecanol.

More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil i) chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two oils as defined above, which are different from each other; in particular, at least a first oil is polar and chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 18 to 20 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two oils, which are preferably polar, of which at least a first oil corresponds to octyldodecanol. More preferentially, the second oil is caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Preferably, in the case of a mixture, the first oil is a polar oil 1) chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and is present in the composition in a concentration of between 15% and 65% by weight, preferably between 20% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one oil chosen from non-volatile apolar oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from apolar oils, preferentially chosen from dicaprylyl ether, squalane, or hemisqualane and mixtures thereof, more preferentially dicaprylyl ether.

Additional fatty substance(s)

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional fatty substances different from the abovementioned oil(s) i), notably one or more solid and/or pasty fatty substances.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the composition according to the invention are notably solid and/or pasty fatty substances.

The term “solid fatty substance" means any fatty substance that is in solid form at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The term “pasty fatty substance" means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state, and including, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23°C may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This fraction that is liquid at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

The melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of solid and/or pasty fatty substances, preferentially less than 2% by weight of solid and/or pasty fatty substances, better still less than 1 % by weight of solid and/or pasty fatty substances relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of solid and/or pasty fatty substances. ii) Polyol(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols ii) containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5% to 60% by total weight of one or more polyol(s) ii) relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferentially, the composition comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight of at least one polyol, even better still from 2.5% to 27% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyo means any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl (OH) groups.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of alkyl type with a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of the linear alkyl type bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl -OH groups, more preferentially 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

The polyol(s) that are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

The polyol(s) that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may notably be made of:

- diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and

- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol(s) ii) containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms are chosen from butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol or mixtures thereof.

According to a very preferred embodiment, the polyol ii) is pentylene glycol. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two polyol(s) containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms ii).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 30% by weight of propylene glycol, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 14% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 30% by weight of pentylene glycol, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. iii) Azelaic acid

The composition according to the invention comprises azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof or mixtures thereof iii), and also solvates thereof such as those derived from alkanol.

The term “organic or mineral base salts" means salts of bases or alkaline agents as defined below, such as alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines, or else salts of “basic” amino acids such as lysine or arginine.

Azelaic acid, or nonanedioic acid, having the empirical formula C9H16O4, is the compound of formula (I) below:

[Chem 1]

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from cereals (wheat, rye and barley) and/or extracted from plants, for instance tall oil acid (INCI name). It has excellent moisturizing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, allowing it to combat skin irregularities such as acne, rosacea and/or fine lines.

Azelaic acid is typically in the form of a white powder.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight of azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof and solvates or mixtures thereof iii), more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total amount of azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof and solvates or mixtures thereof iii) ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. iv) Alkanol(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanol R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 alkyl group iv). The term “alkano means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound containing a single hydroxyl function, also known as a monoalcohol (OH).

The composition according to the invention comprises a total weight amount of 0.1 % to 20% of one or more alkanol(s) R-OH with R as defined previously, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferentially, said alkanol(s) R-OH are such that R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain formed from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

The alkanol(s) iv) present in the compositions of the invention are particularly chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof. Ethanol will be chosen more preferentially.

Additional active agent(s)

The composition may also comprise at least one additional active agent.

Active agents that may be mentioned include, for example, moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, cicatrizing agents, preserving agents such as antibacterial agents, UV-screening agents which are notably lipophilic, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one active agent, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one active agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free-radical scavengers; essential oils; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants; and mixtures thereof. The total amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The amounts of these various active agents are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents, mention may be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, in particular dextrin palmitates, for instance those sold under the name Rheopearl TL2-OR or Rheopearl KL2-OR by the company Chiba Flour Milling, and under the name Rheopearl KS from the company Chiba Flour Milling, and dextrin myristates, for instance those sold under the name Rheopearl MKL2 from the company Chiba Flour Milling. Mention may also be made of fatty acid triesters of monoglycerol or of polyglycerol, such as glyceryl tri(hydroxysterate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), for instance the product sold by the company Elementis under the name Thixcin R, or the product sold by the company Byk Additives & Instruments under the name Rheocin; and modified clays such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, such as the products sold under the Bentone name.

Preferentially, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agent, preferably less than 2% by weight of lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agent relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 1 % by weight of lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agent relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition is free of lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agent.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of filler relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 0.5% by weight, and even better still the composition according to the invention is free of filler.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

A subject of the composition according to the invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for caring for keratin materials, in particular for caring for bodily and/or facial skin.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for treating keratin materials, notably human keratin materials such as the skin, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratin materials.

More particularly, the treatment process is a process for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular bodily and/or facial skin; said process is non-therapeutic, preferably a care process, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratin materials.

The composition in accordance with the invention may be obtained in the usual manner by those skilled in the art.

The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts are indicated as weight percentages of starting materials (SM) relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise mentioned.

Examples

In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).

Compositions

Compositions A1 , A2, A3, B1 and B2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):

[Table 1] n R1 . A1 A2 , - A3 B2 a^se (invention) (invention) (^comP^{ara lve} (invention) (comparative)

Propyiene _{A 14 Q 14 Q 14 Q} glycol

Pentylene

glycol

Azelaic acid A 1.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 Ethanol

3.0 3.0 3.0 2.0

Octyldodecanol B qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Water

qs 100

Manufacturing process a) In a beaker, mix the ingredients of phase A with magnetic stirring using a magnetic bar at room temperature (25°C) until the azelaic acid is totally dissolved (production of a homogeneous, clear solution). b) Add phase B with magnetic stirring and homogenize until a perfectly homogeneous, clear mixture is produced. c) Add phase C with magnetic stirring until a perfectly homogeneous, clear mixture is produced.

Results by macroscopic visual observation:

[Table 2]

The azelaic acid solubility was evaluated after manufacturing compositions A1 , A2, A3, B1 and B2.

The results obtained show that azelaic acid is soluble and does not recrystallize in compositions A1 to A3 according to the invention at room temperature (25°C), unlike the comparative compositions B1 and B2, in which azelaic acid recrystallizes and/or does not dissolve.

Compositions A1 to A3 according to the invention are transparent at the end of manufacture at room temperature (25°C).

Stability of azelaic acid in the composition:

The stability of azelaic acid in composition A1 is studied by liquid chromatography with charged aerosol detection (LC-CAD) (apparatus: THERMO Vanquish). The column used is an Acquity LIPLC BEH Shield RP18 1.7 pm column (temperature 55°C). The eluent is an acetonitrile/water mixture with 0.1% formic acid, and the flow rate is 0.7 ml/min. After quantification by external calibration of the standards in a methanol solution, 2 pl of composition A dissolved in a water/methanol (10/90) mixture are injected. The results obtained are presented in the table below.

[Table 3]

A degradation of the active agent content of less than or equal to 10% is considered as stable. Thus, the azelaic acid in composition A1 remains stable in the composition at T = 0 at room temperature and also after 1 month and/or 2 months at a temperature of 45°C.

Stability of the compositions

Compositions AT, A2’, A3’ and A4’ were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):

[Table 4]

AT ^A2’ A3’ A4’ 10 (invention) (invention) (invention) (comparative)

Propylene glycol A 1^ 0 ' 20.0 20.0

Pentylene glycol A ^{3 3 3 3} 5.0 5.0

Azelaic acid A 1 0 1 0 1 ,o 1.0

Octyldodecanol B qs 100 qs 100 _qs 100 qs 100

Ethanol C ^{3 0 2 0} 5.0

Results by macroscopic visual observation:

[Table 5]

The stability was evaluated 24h after manufacture of compositions AT, A2’, A3’ and A4’. The results obtained show that compositions AT, A2’ and A3’ according to the invention remain stable for 24 hours at room temperature, unlike the comparative composition A4’.

Claims

1. Composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising:

- ii) one or more polyols containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms;

- iv) one or more alkanols R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 alkyl group; and it being understood that the composition comprises water in an amount of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the oil(s) are chosen from polar oils, apolar oils and mixtures thereof; preferably, the oil(s) are polar.

3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the oil(s) i) are chosen from a1) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, a2) synthetic esters of formula R¹-C-(O)-O-R² in which R¹ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, it being understood that the sum of R¹ and R² is greater than or equal to 10, a3) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, with a branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, a5) dialkyl carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2; preferably, R1 and R2 represent an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, a6) diesters of a dicarboxylic acid with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbonbased chain, preferably a saturated C2-C16 chain, and of a C1-C4 monoalcohol; and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil(s) are chosen from triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol whose fatty acids include at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; capryl ic/capric acid triglycerides, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of fatty acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 16 carbon atoms; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, including at least one branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2, Ri and R₂ preferably representing an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain; such as dicaprylyl carbonate; diesters of dicarboxylic acid bearing a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C8-C12 hydrocarbon-based chain, and of monoalcohol bearing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbonbased chain, preferably a branched C3-C4 chain, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from triglycerides formed from esters of glycerol and of fatty acids including a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 hydrocarbonbased chain, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of fatty acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-Cis hydrocarbonbased chain; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, including at least one branched and/or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; the carbonates RI-O-C(O)-O-R2, R1 and R₂ preferably representing an identical saturated hydrocarbon-based chain and mixtures thereof; better still, the oil(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil(s) i) are chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of oil(s), preferably polar oil(s), ranges from 1 % to 89% by weight, preferably from 10% to 87% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 85% by weight and better still from 30% to 83% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) ii) containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, contain from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups -OH, more preferentially 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) ii) containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms are chosen from butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol or mixtures thereof, such as pentylene glycol.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two polyols containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms ii).

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total weight amount of the polyol(s) ii) ranges from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 1 % to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight, still better from 2.5 to 27% by weight.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of azelaic acid, an organic or mineral base salt thereof and solvates or mixtures thereof iii) ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising iv) one or more alkanol(s) R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 and preferably C2-C4 alkyl group notably chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially ethanol.

13. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising a total amount of alkanol(s) R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C2-C6 alkyl group iv) ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of water is less than or equal to 12% by weight of water, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight of water, more preferentially less than or equal to 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than or equal to 6% by weight of water, even better still less than or equal to 4% by weight of water.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially in an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular in an amount of less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even the composition is free of surfactant.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any hydroxyethyl urea; more preferentially, the composition does not comprise any urea N-substituted on one or both nitrogen atoms with one or two groups chosen from (C1-C6)alkyl optionally substituted with a hydroxyl; better still, the composition does not comprise any N-substituted urea or any unsubstituted urea.

17. Finished cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 0.01 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 16.

18. Process for treating keratin materials, comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 17.

19. Use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 17, for treating keratin materials, in particular for caring for bodily and/or facial skin.